"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Hazaro said:
A 500GB F3 should not be slow. When you reinstall make sure to set the HDD to ACHI mode.

KVM

No, not all. The Extreme 4 I think does not have BT. Buy a $5 USB adapter.

Can't say.

There are much better cases at that price range. I'd look a bit more.
Thanks for the help.
KVM is from what I understand for multiple PC's, not monitors, but connecting multiple monitors will probably not be a problem.

I have changed and added some stuff, also my friend went loose and changed all kinds of things so now I have two completely different builds. Any suggestions on what to pick or not pick?

I use my old hard drive, so that isn't needed.

Mine, based on the GAF $1000 build:
http://tweakers.net/gallery/297490?wish_id=169532#tab:wenslijst

My friends:

http://tweakers.net/gallery/297490?wish_id=176907#tab:wenslijst

Budget around 1000 euros, more specifications I had given earlier this page (100 posts). Any feedback is appreciated.

edit: Ok, previous page.
 
I don't know where else to put this, but:

I'm looking at the a 13" laptop with i3 or i5 or a netbook with an AMD E-350, but I'm hoping it would look like a Toshiba Portege R700 (aesthetically; something sleek and simple, not curvey).

I would grab the R700, but I'm not ready to drop 800 on it. I'm looking at a 500 budget. The laptop/netbook will be used for school work, browsing (opening ~10-15 tabs), and watching HD movies or streaming via Flash.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I am located in Canada.
 
I open this thread and the first thing I read about is a high-pitched whining noise. Funny. I was just reading about similar whining noises, and in most cases people reckon it's PSU-related.

Unfortunately, I was looking for the info because a short while ago I switched my new PC on for the first time and it was the first thing I heard. I can't believe my PSU might be faulty. I spent so long on cable management too, and was pleased with how it all looked.

Corsair CX500, btw.
 
Prophet Steve said:
Thanks for the help.
KVM is from what I understand for multiple PC's, not monitors, but connecting multiple monitors will probably not be a problem.

I have changed and added some stuff, also my friend went loose and changed all kinds of things so now I have two completely different builds. Any suggestions on what to pick or not pick?

I use my old hard drive, so that isn't needed.

Mine, based on the GAF $1000 build:
http://tweakers.net/gallery/297490?wish_id=169532#tab:wenslijst

My friends:

http://tweakers.net/gallery/297490?wish_id=176907#tab:wenslijst

Budget around 1000 euros, more specifications I had given earlier this page (100 posts). Any feedback is appreciated.

edit: Ok, previous page.
Not sure if those Corsair sticks will fit in the first slot. I believe they fit into the second with the Mugen II.

Both looks good to me.

Hieberrr said:
I don't know where else to put this, but:

I'm looking at the a 13" laptop with i3 or i5 or a netbook with an AMD E-350, but I'm hoping it would look like a Toshiba Portege R700 (aesthetically; something sleek and simple, not curvey).

I would grab the R700, but I'm not ready to drop 800 on it. I'm looking at a 500 budget. The laptop/netbook will be used for school work, browsing (opening ~10-15 tabs), and watching HD movies or streaming via Flash.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I am located in Canada.
First line in the OP.
Doodlebug said:
I open this thread and the first thing I read about is a high-pitched whining noise. Funny. I was just reading about similar whining noises, and in most cases people reckon it's PSU-related.

Unfortunately, I was looking for the info because a short while ago I switched my new PC on for the first time and it was the first thing I heard. I can't believe my PSU might be faulty. I spent so long on cable management too, and was pleased with how it all looked.

Corsair CX500, btw.
It happens. Contact Corsair for an RMA. Make sure it is the PSU though. Could be the graphics.
 
All right gents, I got a question for all of you. At the moment I'm sitting on a PC with these specs: Intel Q9300 quad core clocked at 2.5GHz, 8GB DDR2 ram and an ATI 4850.

I know I need to get rid of the 4850, but I'm starting to wonder if I would just be better off in the long run building an entirely new tower. Thoughts?
 
Pie Lord said:
All right gents, I got a question for all of you. At the moment I'm sitting on a PC with these specs: Intel Q9300 quad core clocked at 2.5GHz, 8GB DDR2 ram and an ATI 4850.

I know I need to get rid of the 4850, but I'm starting to wonder if I would just be better off in the long run building an entirely new tower. Thoughts?
What do you want to do with your PC?
How much are you spending? When?

Fill out the list in the OP.
 
Omg, i set the CPU fan to automatic mode, set the Target temperature to 45C , set the target speed to 5. I ran the prime95 cpu test to see if it would ramp up when it hit 45C, it didnt! i didnt hear the fan increase when it hit 50C!

Also i tried to set SATA drives to ACHI, but when i did, it would BSOD before windows even starts up
 
Hazaro said:
What do you want to do with your PC?
How much are you spending? When?

Fill out the list in the OP.
PC gaming, sorry I thought it kind of went without saying around here. I'm not asking for anything regarding price or help building a tower, I'm only curious to see if people think I should just upgrade or replace the tower.
 
When to upgrade depends on your current performance. From my experience I'd say you can run everything OK right now. If you want to improve I'd get a graphics card now and the rest when the next lot of good processors come or everything's cheaper
 
Pie Lord said:
PC gaming, sorry I thought it kind of went without saying around here. I'm not asking for anything regarding price or help building a tower, I'm only curious to see if people think I should just upgrade or replace the tower.

If you want help with a build fill this out AND try making one of your own from the resources in the OP :)

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM (DDR2/DDR3) / Motherboard / GPU
Budget: Price Range + Country
Main Use: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, 3D work, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later?
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Self Explanatory
Are reusing any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX 520W)
When will you build?: When do you want your computer, do you need it in a week, can you wait a month or two?
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes)
 
Can anyone explain how I can have my CPU set to 4.2 on a 2500k 3.3 mhz processor but when I use Prime95 it never shows more than 3.9 at max 100% CPU usage?
 
Pie Lord said:
PC gaming, sorry I thought it kind of went without saying around here. I'm not asking for anything regarding price or help building a tower, I'm only curious to see if people think I should just upgrade or replace the tower.
To answer your question directly: your proc is still baller. Grab a nice cooler for 775, and OC that sucker. Grab a 560ti/570/6950 and you are good to go for modern games.
 
Pie Lord said:
PC gaming, sorry I thought it kind of went without saying around here. I'm not asking for anything regarding price or help building a tower, I'm only curious to see if people think I should just upgrade or replace the tower.


depends. are you running at an acceptable frame rate at a resolution you are pleased with?
would you like to in crease either of those things?
 
Tom Penny said:
Can anyone explain how I can have my CPU set to 4.2 on a 2500k 3.3 mhz processor but when I use Prime95 it never shows more than 3.9 at max 100% CPU usage?
What does it show with CPUZ?
 
knitoe said:
What does it show with CPUZ?

I'm using CPU-Z. It's always 3.9 even if I put the turbo ratio's at 40 41 42 etc..I'm confused. It should be going to 4.0 4.1 4.2 etc...The CPU doesn't adjust according to how much voltage you give it does it? Would the computer just not boot if there wasn't enough juice?
 
Tom Penny said:
I'm using CPU-Z. It's always 3.9 even if I put the turbo ratio's at 40 41 42 etc..I'm confused. It should be going to 4.0 4.1 4.2 etc...The CPU doesn't adjust according to how much voltage you give it does it? Would the computer just not boot if there wasn't enough juice?
Are you sure you have a 2500K and not 2500? Can you post pic of CPUZ? Also, what MB?

Changing CPU voltage doesn't increase clock speed. If you don't provide enough, computer will boot or BSOD.
 
My current specs are as follows:

Intel Core I7 950 3.0 GHZ
ATI Radeon 5850
OCZ 4 GB PC 1600 RAM

I am starting to not be able to run games at their highest settings now. I have been told that my video card is the bottleneck.

What is the best card the GAF feels I could get for $300 shipped and would it be worth upgrading in regards to seeing a sizeable performance increase? I also want to be able to do physx, which I am using a 8600 GT for right now.
 
hlhbk said:
My current specs are as follows:

Intel Core I7 950 3.0 GHZ
ATI Radeon 5850
OCZ 4 GB PC 1600 RAM

I am starting to not be able to run games at their highest settings now. I have been told that my video card is the bottleneck.

What is the best card the GAF feels I could get for $300 shipped and would it be worth upgrading in regards to seeing a sizeable performance increase? I also want to be able to do physx, which I am using a 8600 GT for right now.
If you want physx, go Nvidia. For $300 after $30 rebate, you could get a few GTX570 on newegg. Or, $200 for many GTX560. And, with those cards, you could drop the 8600GT for physx.
 
knitoe said:
Are you sure you have a 2500K and not 2500? Can you post pic of CPUZ? Also, what MB?

Changing CPU voltage doesn't increase clock speed. If you don't provide enough, computer will boot or BSOD.

Are you sure you can use a 42 multiplier on a non 2500k i5 CPU SMH? Do the math.
 
Tom Penny said:
Are you sure you can use a 42 multiplier on a non 2500k i5 CPU SMH? Do the math.
I don't have a non K CPU. Thus, I don't know if you can still change multi >41, but the computer won't take it due to limit. Also, it's plausible to think you may have a 2500 since you are stuck at 3.9GHz.

As for "Do the math," I am only trying to help you, but if you want to be a wise ass, good luck with your issue because I am done.
 
knitoe said:
If you want physx, go Nvidia. For $300 after $30 rebate, you could get a few GTX570 on newegg. Or, $200 for many GTX560. And, with those cards, you could drop the 8600GT for physx.

Ok, but does the 560 or 570 really make that big of a difference over what I have already?
 
hlhbk said:
Ok, but does the 560 or 570 really make that big of a difference over what I have already?
No, not really. But upgrading the CPU won't do anything at all. 1366 is still king of the roost in a lot of respects.

Just be patient and wait for the next gen. That was my plan until a second 5870 fell in my lap for cheap.
 
mkenyon said:
No, not really. But upgrading the CPU won't do anything at all. 1366 is still king of the roost in a lot of respects.

Just be patient and wait for the next gen. That was my plan until a second 5870 fell in my lap for cheap.

I have a 8800GTX laying around. If I used that for a dedicated physx card would it make a big difference enough to warrant the heat increase in my system?
 
Just another option:

MB882HX-1SB 2.5” SATA SSD Xpander Hybrid Adapter
http://www.icydock.com/goods_downloads.php?id=135
http://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=135

mb882hx_diagram_web.jpg



Also...
·feist· said:
*adds another to the ignore list*


Fredescu said:
yeah ima ask for advice and ignore it.
These threads are something else, sometimes...
Yup.


hlhbk said:
I have a 8800GTX laying around. If I used that for a dedicated physx card would it make a big difference enough to warrant the heat increase in my system?
With your current card? Sure, it's worthwhile in some titles, if not exactly drastic. If you were to upgrade to something like a GTX 570/580, I wouldn't bother.
 
Is there a tangible advantage in going for a GTX 570 over a GTX 560 TI? Wondering if I should spend the extra hundred. My monitor's native res is 1680 x 1050.
 
so my last pc i built was in 2006, it is my current "studio" pc and it works well for what I use it for (Reason, CueBase ect) and also have a late 2009 MBP that i'm thinking of selling

but lately ive had the urge to build a new pc, so far this is what I have specd

CPU - i3-549 Clarksdale
GPU - either evga GTX 550 ti or XFX Radeon HD 5770
Ram - G Skill 8GB Ripjaw
Mobo - ASUS P7H55-M PRO
Case - Silverstone Lascala LC13B

already have a 2TB WD drive

Budget: 500-600 + USA
Main Use: this will be in my home theater, so movies, but also want something that will be sufficient for playing most modern gamesusage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: 1080p 1920x1080
When will you build?: When do you want your computer, do you need it in a week, can you wait a month or two?
Will you be overclocking?: No

question
-would I be smart getting either of the gpus listed, or is there something on the horizon in the same price range that I should hold out for? I could use the mobo on board for most my use I would guess

-are there any knowledgable hackintosh Gaf members? 99% certain I will have no issues with it from what I have researched on the appropriate forums, but there are always a few things that can cause issues (my previous build was 100% compatible on paper, but my evga version of the nforce4 mobo was not)
-any other advice is welcomed
 
When my computer goes to sleep and I wiggle the mouse to wake it back up, everything powers back up, but nothing goes to the monitor. I have to manually turn it off and reboot it back up, and it's not happy when I do that. I've set it to where it doesn't ever fall asleep, but I'd like to know why it does that. Must be something to do with the graphics card?
 
Eltacoman said:
When my computer goes to sleep and I wiggle the mouse to wake it back up, everything powers back up, but nothing goes to the monitor. I have to manually turn it off and reboot it back up, and it's not happy when I do that. I've set it to where it doesn't ever fall asleep, but I'd like to know why it does that. Must be something to do with the graphics card?

This may sound silly, but did you try clicking the mouse or pressing a button or two on the keyboard? My Dell E228WFP doesn't wake up with just a wiggle of the mouse.
 
Eltacoman said:
When my computer goes to sleep and I wiggle the mouse to wake it back up, everything powers back up, but nothing goes to the monitor. I have to manually turn it off and reboot it back up, and it's not happy when I do that. I've set it to where it doesn't ever fall asleep, but I'd like to know why it does that. Must be something to do with the graphics card?

I believe it's the p67 chipset on the motherboard that makes that happen. It's a known problem and there are a number of solution in the interwebz on how to fix it.

I believe that's the problem. >_>
 
Ya, I hit buttons as well, like I said it powers up but no video to the monitor. I'll head the deep areas of the interwebs and check it out, thanks.

Do you have a specific site which lists the problem?
 
I have a three-year old Ultra Microfly case, and I just experimented that when I take the top lid off, the computers' internal temperatures go down about 5-6 degrees Celsius.

LzMXK.gif


Hopefully, when I build my next computer, I'll consider using a case that has holes and a fan on the upper section.

Perhaps when I have time I'll puncture holes in the upper lid.
 
Eltacoman said:
Ya, I hit buttons as well, like I said it powers up but no video to the monitor. I'll head the deep areas of the interwebs and check it out, thanks.

Do you have a specific site which lists the problem?
Sleep/hibernation problem on Sandy Bridge MBs mainly has to do with enabling Internal CPU PLL. That setting is for getting over the overclocking "wall" where no amount of voltage increase will work, usually 4.8GHz or above. If you don't hit the "wall" or aren't overclocking that high, you can disable it.
 
knitoe said:
Sleep/hibernation problem on Sandy Bridge MBs mainly has to do with enabling Internal CPU PLL. That setting is for getting over the overclocking "wall" where no amount of voltage increase will work, usually 4.8GHz or above. If you don't hit the "wall" or aren't overclocking that high, you can disable it.

I believe I do have it disabled. And the problem was actually occurring before I ever started to overclock.


black_vegeta said:

Thanks!
 
claviertekky said:
I have a three-year old Ultra Microfly case, and I just experimented that when I take the top lid off, the computers' internal temperatures go down about 5-6 degrees Celsius.

LzMXK.gif


Hopefully, when I build my next computer, I'll consider using a case that has holes and a fan on the upper section.

Perhaps when I have time I'll puncture holes in the upper lid.

There's spots for two fans on top of the R3. I've been meaning to pick some up since I'm running pretty hot.
 
claviertekky said:
Ah thank you.

I don't like the door design though.

The top ports are nice.

I'm not sure if you realize the Ultra Microfly is a SFF case, which is what I'm interested.

Ah, your picture wasn't loading for me so I didn't realize it was a SFF case. I don't have any experience with them, what's their main draw for you? Just the size?
 
Eltacoman said:
Ah, your picture wasn't loading for me so I didn't realize it was a SFF case. I don't have any experience with them, what's their main draw for you? Just the size?
Yeah definitely the size.

I've also used the barebones Shuttle XPCs in the past, and I just dig the form factor.

Towers kind of remind me of the computers I bought in the past from retailers in the 1990s and early 2000s, so I like to avoid them in my recent builds.
 
That makes sense, the style is definitely original, I'm liking these ones I'm seeing online. Would you say it's any more difficult building in one?
 
momolicious said:
Also i tried to set SATA drives to ACHI, but when i did, it would BSOD before windows even starts up

I think you need to have that set before you install Windows, or you can change a value in the registry for it to work. It's not that hard, google it.
 
MAB128 said:
I think you need to have that set before you install Windows, or you can change a value in the registry for it to work. It's not that hard, google it.
I think someone in the thread did the registry change and it worked out for them.
 
momolicious said:
Also i tried to set SATA drives to ACHI, but when i did, it would BSOD before windows even starts up
Go here:

http://www.windows7news.com/2010/05/25/how-to-enable-ahci-in-windows-7/

AHCI must be enabled before you install Windows 7 as MAB mentioned above. However, if you've already installed it, follow the directions on that page to get it working. I made the same mistake and the fix above worked fine for me. The system will boot into Windows and it will install the proper drivers.
 
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