Manos: The Hans of Fate
Banned
Yes, I just found my Product Key from my Windows 7 Student Upgrade edition. Thank god I made sure to forward it from my school account to my gmail one.
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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You guys are starting to worry me.
I'm going to a store and see if they have any heatsinks for my processor. I have never bought one before, do I look them up by cpu socket? LGA 1366 would be mine. What brand is recommended? I'll check the thread from my phone when I get to the store.
I'm going to a store and see if they have any heatsinks for my processor. I have never bought one before, do I look them up by cpu socket? LGA 1366 would be mine. What brand is recommended? I'll check the thread from my phone when I get to the store.
zazrx said:
Cooler Master Hyper 212 is the best bang for the buck. $30 on Amazon, if you can keep that computer off long enough to let it get to you. If you can't, yeah, you'll be shopping by socket.
You'll want to be sure that whatever cooler you get fits in your case. What case do you have?
Sourtreats said:Yessir! Good eye
One of my first builds was made with that guy, I've come to absolutely hate it now, as I'm trying to make a HTPC out of old parts, and it can't overclock, doesn't support quads, and my USB ports are intermittent at best. Had some great years on it though when C2D was just starting out, good memories.
Go to your local computer store. Just about everyone will have the Hyper 212+. If you want something less intense to install, you could go for something like the Scythe Shuriken. I'd say just try reapplying thermal paste and reseating your heatsink before you do this. If you're not OC'ing, the stock heatsink should be absolutely fine.zazrx said:
mkenyon said:
I second this. If your temps aren't fine with the stock heatsink, at stock speeds and voltages, something else is wrong. If reapplying thermal paste doesn't work, it could be the sensors. If it is, that is a bigger problem, that a new heatsink wouldn't fix.
zrzrx said:
Something like the CM hyper 212+ would fit, but you'd need to remove the side panel fan to make it work.
Definitely try new paste first.
kagete said:
I love that case. I want one so bad, but I can't justify the cost, since my computer doesn't make any noise anymore (or it does rather, but it does so in a closet far away from me).
Alright, I'm back, again. After decided on the ASUS GeForce GTX 580 DirectCU II I've heard a couple of people tell me that it's not worth the extra money to get a 580 rather than a 570 when I'm only running games at 1920x1080. Is that true? The ASUS GeForce GTX 570 DirectCU II 1280MB is quite a bit cheaper so if I'm only running a single monitor at 1080p, should I just buy the 570 then?
Install the most recent drivers first, then install the card.(._.) said:Ok so I opened up my PC and the slot where the sound card is installed is the only spot where it can be put on the motherboard physically. Thing is it isn't fully in the slot because the screw holding it in place is pulling the opposing end out some. I had to take the screw out and push it all the way in. There isn't a screw holding the card in place now because it physically wont let me without part of the card coming out.
The motherboard seems to be picking the device up now but this is what it is showing. I have installed the drivers. What do I do now? The audio still isn't working.
This is what shows up under properties. I have installed the drivers.
I've reinstalled my Xonar DG 3 times with no problems.
There is also a plastic cover on the heatsink you need to take off before installing.zazrx said:
Leave those VGA stickers on. For warranty.zazrx said:I don't remember seeing any strips back when I installed it. Here are some more readings, these are idle:=
On a side note, my video card arrived today and I have a question regarding some stickers on it.
Do I leave those there? Does it matter?
570 now, new video card in ~5 months if you want an upgrade.Darklord said:
Manos: The Hans of Fate
Banned
mkenyon said:
Personally I'm thinking of getting the 212+ when I get a chance, regardless of how my stock fan works (assuming it's not defective and just the wire like I think). Tech guy at work recommend the same exact fan for me this morning. I want to get a good quality fan and something that's quiet too, that said I'm not too eager to try and get the fan out again. It's a pain once snapped in.
Azwethinkweiz
Member
Le-mo said:
Not really related but is there a reason you didn't go with the 64-bit version of Windows 7?
Le-mo said:
Yeah, that's a little strange. Usually when a hard drive dies it won't show up in the BIOS either. It's worth a try to plug it into a different sata port and try a different cable if you have one. Also if you have access to another computer you could try plugging it into that as a second drive and see if it can see it. Essentially process of elimination to see if the problem is with the drive/mb/cable, etc.
momolicious
Member
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:Funny the temps don't seem as bad now
That doesn't seem headed for disaster. So the fan shouldn't be running that high. Perhaps I could manually lower it.
Wait, how are you temps like that with stock fan? I am using a Hyper 212+ on the same processor with Arctic MX-4 paste and im getting 33C,30C,32C,34C which is very similar to your idle temps using the same program
Sourtreats
Member
Appleman said:One of my first builds was made with that guy, I've come to absolutely hate it now, as I'm trying to make a HTPC out of old parts, and it can't overclock, doesn't support quads, and my USB ports are intermittent at best. Had some great years on it though when C2D was just starting out, good memories.
Yeah it's quite dated, I'm getting into PC gaming a lot more and contemplating a new rig in a few months. But it lasted me a good number of years.
evil solrac v3.0
Member
just bought the Lian-Li PC-P80N, this case is worth the money.
terrdactycalsrock
Member
I'm trying to build a cheap pc on maingear, because I dont think I can build a pc myself. Can someone tell me how power and where the radeon 6850 sets in terms of power and performance?
So Im going to finally going to build a new pc going to buy parts one or 2 at a time for the next few months.
Out of my old PC i have a Power color 5750 1gb which im going to reuse for now
so my build would be as follow
5750 1gb (will upgrade vid card next year)
ASRock 970 EXTREME4 AM3+
4 gigs DDR 3 1300
AMD Phenom II X4 965 3.2ghz
This PC will mostly be for gaming and Emulation With Some Photo and Video editing.
Im really just trying to get 1650x1050 res since my monitor only supports that with 40-50 FPS and every thing on high (Crysis 2, Metro,FFXIV,etc)
Do you guys think this build would be able to do that ?
Also what wattage PS would I need to be looking for (could any one point me in the right direction)?
Out of my old PC i have a Power color 5750 1gb which im going to reuse for now
so my build would be as follow
5750 1gb (will upgrade vid card next year)
ASRock 970 EXTREME4 AM3+
4 gigs DDR 3 1300
AMD Phenom II X4 965 3.2ghz
This PC will mostly be for gaming and Emulation With Some Photo and Video editing.
Im really just trying to get 1650x1050 res since my monitor only supports that with 40-50 FPS and every thing on high (Crysis 2, Metro,FFXIV,etc)
Do you guys think this build would be able to do that ?
Also what wattage PS would I need to be looking for (could any one point me in the right direction)?
Manos: The Hans of Fate
Banned
momolicious said:
Beats me. It just appears that wires from the fan may be being struck, so their seems to be no issue with the fan actually working like it should. I also wasn't running any games or stuff. When I started CIV 5 it went up to 60 for the GPU and higher on the others, but then again I have no idea what are normal ranges. Even the RPM of the fan was normal. Like I said if not for the noise it's fine.
zephervack
Member
Darklord said:
I say get it now (580), the 1.2GB of memory in the 570 will make you suffer with high levels of AA in many of today's games at 1080p.
Check out how much Ram the 460 uses at 1200p with only 4x AA on a Game from 2010, once you run out of VRAM you enter Stuttery Town
I am sorry my brothers but i dont have it in me to build a pc....that being said what do you guys think of digital storm's ODE- level 3, my budget i saround 2400 this kinda fits the bill and i look around online and it seems like there good service and customer care too.
http://www.digitalstormonline.com/comploadode.asp?id=566405&hide=1
http://www.digitalstormonline.com/comploadode.asp?id=566405&hide=1
The things you could do with $2400 if you built it yourself...... Shit, if you live in the PAC NW, I'll do it for you.zulfate said:
However, that's a pretty rad build there. You could save a bit of money by not going SLI (recommended since you're a neophyte, it WILL give you headaches) and switching the proc to a 2500K.
Nakazato said:
Be careful doing this as most places only have 30 day return policies.
Would suck to finally get everything together and find out you've got a bad mobo, or a bad stick of RAM, and will have to go to the hassle of going through the manufacturer instead of being able to return and replace it wherever you bought it.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26715356&postcount=10527 from the OPzulfate said:
Basically, if you're not on top of updating your profiles, a lot of games will run like crap. Even still, some games will continue to run like crap. For quite a few, you'll have to disable SLI entirely. SLI is for twinkers who know what they're doing and want to get everything out of their system they can. I spose, if you only play AAA releases and big console ports, you'll probably be okay as long as you stay on top of getting new profiles.
Ok I just got home and I opened up the computer. Apparently the heatsink was loose. After I removed it I noticed it did have thermal paste but it looks burned up or I dunno, just doesnt look too good. How do I go about cleaning it up and applying new one? Also the heatsink has a ton of dust in it.
zulfate said:
Don't do it. You are being vastly overcharged for what you are getting. Here is basically the same build on newegg. Notice all the rebates, and the final price.
If you just can't do it yourself (others have thought the same, and still managed), I'd go with NCIX. You pick the components, pay them $50, and they build the computer for you. You'd save a bundle.
Just out of curiosity, which games are you wanting to play, that you'd be willing to shell out 2.4 G's?
No, I'm saying stay away from it since you probably don't fall into those categories. Go for something like a single 580GTX if you want maximum performance. Dual 570s will turn your system into something all the console haters bitch at PC gaming for. "Update this, make sure the drivers are recent, disable that, yada yada". I mean, if you get off on that like us performance nuts do, by all means. I figured you didn't though, considering you don't want to build it.zulfate said:
LordCanti said:Don't do it. You are being vastly overcharged for what you are getting. Here is basically the same build on newegg. Notice all the rebates, and the final price.
If you just can't do it yourself (others have thought the same, and still managed), I'd go with NCIX. You pick the components, pay them $50, and they build the computer for you. You'd save a bundle.
Just out of curiosity, which games are you wanting to play, that you'd be willing to shell out 2.4 G's?
wow thanks, i will try out NCIX, i was planning on play bf3, skyrim, and pretty much any AAA game for pc.
ok then i will go with that 580...and if i want down the road i can always get another one right? if i like tweaking and stuff....which actually i dont mind doing all that tinkering stuff, is it easy to turn of one of the cards?
zazrx said:
There are a couple of different methods, but what I use is Isopropyl (rubbing) Alcohol (70% or higher concentration), and a lint free cloth (like a microfiber cloth). You'll put the alcohol on the cloth (not getting it wet, more like damp) and use it to rub off the thermal paste from the CPU and cooler.
To reapply, you'll put roughly a grain of rice amount of thermal paste in the middle of the bottom of the heat sink (a bit more would be fine, but no less) and then place the sink on the CPU and reverse the process you did to undo it.
zazrx said:
Either way is fine. I have a pretty steady hand, so I just put it on the heatsink, with the knowledge that I'm not going to accidentally miss the slot and get thermal paste all over my mobo (which would be a bitch to clean). If you aren't as certain, you can put it right on the CPU.
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