"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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Flying_Phoenix
Banned
zulfate said:
Be sure NOT to get a H67 motherboard. You CANNOT overclock it.
Your power supply seems fine. It could go down to 600W (probably less) but it doesn't hurt to future proof (who knows what future rigs he'll be building.
Also get a gamepad.
Yes its worth spending the $35. You don't play games like Devil May Cry 4 and Darksiders on a mouse and keyboard.
Other than that seems perfect.
Nelo Ice said:hows this build? still need a keyboard and theres a trick to using the windows 7 student upgrade edition on a new build right? btw didnt include a gpu since i have a gtx 460 1gb
included headphones cuz i only have $20 logitech speakers or px100s as my audio source the mic cuz i need one now that i wont be using my laptops built in webcam and the controller cuz my 360 wireless receiver broke
also have some amazon gcs lying around that i was going to use on this falls games for consoles but im going to guess theyre better used towards new headphones and pc parts lol
heres a direct link to the images since i fail at resizing
http://i.imgur.com/1qRrV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ztgpq.jpg
could i get any help on my potential build? also asked in another thread and it reminded me that i live near a microcenter so if theres any deals there that would be nice
Prophet Steve
Member
I used the standard thermal paste that came with the cooling, totally forgot that that could be the reason.n0n44m said:
My CPU non-loaded is 40 degrees. Although should it automatically be lower clocked, because it always remains the same? It is possible that I messed up some settings in the BIOS.
Ok, I set the SMART fan control to disabled. The temps are still the same. What are the temps supposed to be anyways? Like 30C idle? This is insane.n0n44m said:
BTW I'm starting to think this is all broken and I'm going to end up having to get a new CPU... If it comes to that can I just get a CPU and motherboard and reuse everything else?
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Any particular reason you're going with that mobo?Nelo Ice said:hows this build? still need a keyboard and theres a trick to using the windows 7 student upgrade edition on a new build right? btw didnt include a gpu since i have a gtx 460 1gb
included headphones cuz i only have $20 logitech speakers or px100s as my audio source the mic cuz i need one now that i wont be using my laptops built in webcam and the controller cuz my 360 wireless receiver broke
also have some amazon gcs lying around that i was going to use on this falls games for consoles but im going to guess theyre better used towards new headphones and pc parts lol
heres a direct link to the images since i fail at resizing
http://i.imgur.com/1qRrV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ztgpq.jpg
Prophet Steve said:
ok I used MX-4 so that could explain a ~4c gap I guess
and yeah you want it to be going 16*100 = 1600 mhz when Idle, which usually gives temps of around 30-35 for most people
if you just use the simple overclock settings in the bios it should do that, if it doesn't you've used the advanced settings and disabled it I guess? what's your motherboard?
zazrx said:
Idle in windows around 30 to 40 I guess depends on the cpu, certainly not high 70s (thats 100% load for most people)
yes you can, but I doubt it is necessary ... can't recall ever reading about a system that would have 80c in bios for any reason other than a faulty heatsink (installation)
[you're not running any weird voltage/overclock settings are you?]
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Ah, just checking. If you want to look for something a bit cheaper, I'm sure you can find other ASUS or AsRock P67 or Z68 boards that would be fine.Nelo Ice said:
Prophet Steve
Member
n0n44m said:
The MSI P67A-GD53 (B3), I think I'll reset the BIOS settings.
kagete said:Ahh sweet success! It booted on the first try with zero incident. I went with an Intel 510 instead of a 320 SSD for this build, so hopefully i'm not at risk of of losing data due to the 8MB issue the 320 series have. The downside is the slightly higher cost as I could have gotten a 160 GB 320 for the price of a 120 GB 510.
Overall, the Fractal R3 is a solid 9/10, simply because I love white. White is a great color but unlike the other color options, this has a red LED for the power. They should have kept it blue to keep the look "cool". The quality is great in most areas, but in some places like the disk caddies, the quality is horrendous. The disk bays are riveted down and can't be removed without drilling/cutting plus the steel isn't rolled or sanded down so you can easily cut your fingers or hand.
Cable management is so-so, because the edge of an ATX mobo is right near the edge of the drive bays, and already partially covers some of the routing holes (which are actually very small and will not accomodate the larger power pins.
The front fan mounts and filters look like they're designed for easy installation and cleaning but are somehow missing any means of snapping in so you're forced to screw them down during installation and possibly unscrew them each time for cleaning.
Honestly, I love my matx NZXT Vulcan case much more. If the vulcan were white, or they sold a white version, I'd probably have kept it or ordered another white one. Too bad this thing is a black hole for dust, sucking and keeping everything inside the case.
Oh and regarding the Seasonic X series modular power supply, the entire package from box to PSU to included cable ties just radiates QUALITY. I was again reminded why I've always bought Seasonic and will continue to do so for all my builds, despite the price premium. That being said, some of the modular cables were about 2 inches too short to route all the way behind the mobo to keep things clean. In a smaller build the lengths would probably be perfect.
My 2500k OC is still sloppy and set to the Asrock mobo's 4.4Ghz recommended default but I'll get to locking down the voltages soon. Total build time was 6 hours including time spent chatting with GAF on mumble, dinner, and waiting for the OS to install.
Lets see the inside of the white!
XiaNaphryz said:
so one of these?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...tion=asus p67&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=20
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...tion=asus z68&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=20
http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.phtml?Ntt=asus p67&N=0
sorry no idea what to order on anything since theres so many freaking variations of mobos and stuff ><
Prophet Steve said:
overclocking a 2500K should be as simple as increasing the multiplier while setting voltage to auto, then adding extra voltage with the +offset when it's not stable at a certain multiplier until you reach a speed/voltage/temp combination you're comfortable with =]
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Yep, those will all work fine with the i5 2500.Nelo Ice said:
SATA III SSD Round-Up: OCZ, Corsair, Patriot, Crucial
http://hothardware.com/Reviews/SATA-III-SSD-RoundUp-OCZ-Corsair-Patriot-Crucial/
Sqrt_minus_one
Member
Nelo Ice said:
I would advise getting 1600Mhz RAM, some high end headphone you got there too.
Complistic
Member
Complistic said:
Anyone?
How come a lot of hardware review sites only test the 560 and 580 cards but ignore the new 570's? I'm trying to compare the ASUS GeForce GTX 570 DirectCU II and 580 versions but nearly no where has reviewed the 570! Although, from what I've seen they are close in performance.
Prophet Steve
Member
I don't see an offset option, already searched for it once.n0n44m said:
n0n44m said:
He's redone the heatsink already, and applied new thermal paste. I don't believe his temps are really that high. He's getting readings of 100c under load, and at that temperature, the computer should have shut itself off. It definitely clocks itself down, but even downclocked, the temperatures are insane. His voltage readings were fine in HWmonitor (his CPU voltage was anyway. It was misreading his 12v rail as like 1.4v or something). I guess it is worth double checking the voltages in the bios.
Time to chalk this up as a good opportunity to upgrade to Sandy Bridge? He could spend the $30 to get a Hyper 212, and re-use it on a new build if it didn't work (which I'm almost certain it's not going to, unless he really is improperly installing the heatsink over and over again).
Could the heatsink be horribly warped or something? Manufactured poorly? Something is screwy, I'm just stumped as to what.
This is rare advice from me, as I almost never tell people to touch metal components while a computer is on, but it may be worth it to do a simple feel test. If it's hotter than hell, the temps are correct. If it's cool, the temps are bogus. It definitely takes some courage to touch a heatsink that may be on top of a 100c processor though. I'd think you'd feel radiating warmth coming off a heatsink that hot anyway, so it may not even be necessary to actually touch the thing.
Did you try looking at their site?Nelo Ice said:
$179.99 - Intel i5 2500K
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?sku=200121
$40 additional motherboard bundle savings with purchase of a 2500K or 2600K
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/c567eeee#/c567eeee/28
The 560 Ti is indeed worth the difference in price. Even without getting into performance differences, that EVGA Ti has a better warranty than the non-Ti model.Complistic said:
Vanilla 560s are a bit of an oddity for various reasons. If you want to save money, you can pick up a standard 1GB GTX 460, with good stock cooling, and overclock it for non-Ti 560 performance.
LordCanti said:
hey I'd love to tell him to just press the heatsink down while running to see if it improves the temps but it might as well break something when not properly attached
but seriously, 4 internal sensors + external motherboard socket sensor all malfunctioning ? never seen/heard that
and touching the heatsink will not be an issue as it's probably rather cool because it's not taking up the heat properly obviously =]
hot heatsink = good heat transfer = normal cpu temp
cool heatsink = bad heat transfer = hot cpu temp
Prophet Steve said:
hmm yeah seems the MSI don't have those ... there is something called APS but I can't really find out what it does ?
anyway you can always just try with auto voltage first, as that does allow for automatic voltage reduction at idle (which manual voltage can't do)
Prophet Steve
Member
n0n44m said:
I'll set the auto footage, so that should put down my ambient temperature. But seeing your comment on the other poster, my heatsink is rather cool so it's probably not installed correctly. Although it has a fan directly on top of it to cool it down, so I don't know whether the surface should be hot (non loaded).
Prophet Steve said:
no your heatsink is cool because the fan is running
and the MUGEN 2 types of sinks don't feel that hot because of the many fins which give it a huge surface area of which you can only touch a small part
the stock coolers are just chunks of aluminum, they get really hot fast when you turn down/off the fan
n0n44m said:
Whether it's working properly or not, it's still a chunk of metal that is directly touching another chunk of metal that is supposedly 100c. It should be hot either way. I've never heard of a heatsink that just didn't work altogether when properly installed. I've heard of heatsinks that didn't work properly, but a heatsink that would let a normally cool CPU get to 100c on stock voltages and speeds?
An improperly installed heatsink would make sense, but he swears it is installed properly, and seated firmly.
I just don't know. We'll know for sure if it's the heatsinks fault if he buys a tower heatsink and the temps go back to normal. I'd love (and I'm sure Intel would love) to know what was so defective about the heatsink, if that turns out to be the case.
Prophet Steve
Member
Ah ok, have changed the voltage to auto but the clock speed still remains the same. Should I reset my bios settings?n0n44m said:no your heatsink is cool because the fan is running
and the MUGEN 2 types of sinks don't feel that hot because of the many fins which give it a huge surface area of which you can only touch a small part
the stock coolers are just chunks of aluminum, they get really hot fast when you turn down/off the fan
EDIT: Maybe should have said this earlier, but my speeds are never completely rounded on the nearest hundred and fluctuates a minimal amount (around 0.3 mhz). It also says the bus speed is 99.8. I see this in CPU-Z.
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
I don't think their website links to all their ad deals/promos. At least the last time I looked I don't recall seeing them.·feist· said:
LordCanti said:
well take your theory about the heatsinks base being warped ... that would reduce a large part of the contact and fill up with air (insulator) as well
same goes for a scenario in which one or more of the 4 pins doesn't apply (enough) pressure ...
actually if zazrx would be able to take off the heatsink again and photograph the imprint of the thermal paste on both the sink and the cpu I think we could determine whether there was (in)sufficient contact
and I don't know either but I've never seen all those sensors go so high because of a malfunction
so a mechanical failure with the heatsink or its mounting hardware seems more plausible from my experience =]edit: also the other chunk of metal is some baked sand with a sensor in it that registers 100c, with a small plate of metal glued on top of it --> doesn't take much heat in absolute (Watt) terms to heat it up to 100c while whatever on top of it stays cool if there isn't any decent contact
Prophet Steve said:
yeah I think it's something else that doesn't allow the cpu to downclock ... it's normally one of the C*-states in bios, but I've never changed those so I don't know which one
reset bios, then check if it does downclock to 1600 without overclocking. Next up the multiplier again
the small fluctuations are perfectly normal
That's my case to whoever asked: (sorry on phone)n0n44m said:well take your theory about the heatsinks base being warped ... that would reduce a large part of the contact and fill up with air (insulator) as well
same goes for a scenario in which one or more of the 4 pins doesn't apply (enough) pressure ...
actually if zazrx would be able to take off the heatsink again and photograph the imprint of the thermal paste on both the sink and the cpu I think we could determine whether there was (in)sufficient contact
and I don't know either but I've never seen all those sensors go so high because of a malfunction
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146050
I got to 212+ if anything I can return it. And sure I'll take a picture once I get home and remove it.
·feist· said:Did you try looking at their site?
$179.99 - Intel i5 2500K
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?sku=200121
$40 additional motherboard bundle savings with purchase of a 2500K or 2600K
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/c567eeee#/c567eeee/28
The 560 Ti is indeed worth the difference in price. Even without getting into performance differences, that EVGA Ti has a better warranty than the non-Ti model.
Vanilla 560s are a bit of an oddity for various reasons. If you want to save money, you can pick up a standard 1GB GTX 460, with good stock cooling, and overclock it for non-Ti 560 performance.
bleh didnt realize it was in the ads was hoping to see an exact combo on the one of the pages thanks though
They usually only list exact bundle deals for AMD, like these:
http://www.microcenter.com/specials/promotions/AMDbundlePROMO.html
With the current Intel deal, you have a lot more flexibility to choose, so long as you buy a 2500K/2600K.
http://www.microcenter.com/specials/promotions/AMDbundlePROMO.html
With the current Intel deal, you have a lot more flexibility to choose, so long as you buy a 2500K/2600K.
he second link I posted shows the 1155 motherboard bundle deal, and about all of their in store and online sale items.XiaNaphryz said:
You may need to remove the side panel fan, but it should fit fine, otherwise.zazrx said:
Prophet Steve
Member
Ah thank you, it now clocks down when idle, and turns down a few degrees below 40. Time to raise that multiplier slowly again. Hoping that auto voltage does a good job. The voltage does fluctuate A LOT though. But yeah, I'll probably need to use it to let it clock down.n0n44m said:yeah I think it's something else that doesn't allow the cpu to downclock ... it's normally one of the C*-states in bios, but I've never changed those so I don't know which one
reset bios, then check if it does downclock to 1600 without overclocking. Next up the multiplier again
the small fluctuations are perfectly normal
Prophet Steve said:
if you're overclocking, it'd be nice to disable some of intel's native features like Virtualization, SpeedStep, and the like. That can give a lot of instabilities while overclocking. This gives a more stable oc. If auto-voltages aren't working out for you, set it manually.
just my .02
Prophet Steve
Member
Thank you, I'll keep that in mind. Don't need to push it to the very limit, but I'll see if it is useful.tehbible said:
zazrx said:The heatsink is so damn tight it's proving difficult to take off =\ I can't make 2 of the 4 clips unclip... don't know how to take it off now lol
Ok got it, this is what it looks like:
If those pictures aren't deceiving, there is a bit too much paste on there. That doesn't account for your temperatures though, not even close. It looks like contact was being made pretty evenly, or certainly evenly enough to not cause 100c temperatures.
Did you buy a hyper 212? Clean the CPU, throw that baby on, and tell us if it fixes it.
Prophet Steve
Member
Well, I resetted me bios and started to upping my multiplier again, but it still reaches the 75 degrees on 4.2 ghz. So no luck with that.
My PC is pretty old (except for the graphic card, a 5770).
Right now I have a Althon 64 X2 3800+ on a A8N32 Sli Premium MB with 2GB of DDR Ram.
I'm pretty sure the 5770 is bottlenecked by the CPU and the MB, so I want to change those.
My question is; Should I wait for the AMD Bulldozer CPU (I want to stay with AMD)? I was thinking of picking up a Phenom II X4.
Right now I have a Althon 64 X2 3800+ on a A8N32 Sli Premium MB with 2GB of DDR Ram.
I'm pretty sure the 5770 is bottlenecked by the CPU and the MB, so I want to change those.
My question is; Should I wait for the AMD Bulldozer CPU (I want to stay with AMD)? I was thinking of picking up a Phenom II X4.
Prophet Steve
Member
Well it's now on auto, because my motherboard doesn't allow offsets and without using auto it won't clock lower when idle. It says 1.30 now.knitoe said:
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