ss_lemonade
Member
About afterburner, why is that sometimes my custom fan profile won't kick in when booting the computer up? I have to toggle the auto fan setting on off multiple times until it starts working againcomrade said:
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Check the 8 pin connector garath mentioned. It should be near your CPU socket. Don't see anything going up that way in your picture so I bet it's the problem.SnakeSlashRO said:
Also interested in this. Not sure how these Kingston drives are, but I notice they are on sale relatively often on Newegg. If it's cheap enough I might bite if they are good drives, 96GB should be good for me.
Edit: Doesn't look all that fast actually. I'll probably hold off for something better. Maybe over the holidays.
Legato.Reborn-
Member
Hello!
I am upgrading my 4870 -> 6970. (Hurray!)
I now need to make sure I have the right power cords for it.
Currently, I have a Zuma 650W PSU.
What do I need to do in order to make a 6pin / 8pin working with that?
Thank you!
I am upgrading my 4870 -> 6970. (Hurray!)
I now need to make sure I have the right power cords for it.
Currently, I have a Zuma 650W PSU.
What do I need to do in order to make a 6pin / 8pin working with that?
Thank you!
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
chaosblade said:
I figured it out, its the JPWR2. Im not sure my PSU has an adapter for that.... Or I just cant tell yet. It seems like all the adapters are either 2 or 4... so
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
LordCanti said:
This one. http://www.vendio.com/stores/goldduo/item?lid=16105091&source=Vendio:Google Product Search
I figured it out......... Now it stays on longer but the power cuts off after you hear the machine starting to really crank up....
I noticed this switch on the PSU that says 115... I can switch it down too 230...
know what that is all about???
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
LordCanti said:
Nope, but I notice the only thing that happens is the fan for the CPU moves, and the other two fans I have installed do not do anything, nore does the graphics card ( I dont know if the fan is supposte to start right away) and the leds for the fan will not come on either.
You can hear the little sounds as if it was loading, so maybe that is the hard drive? But I don't know, it cuts off in about 3 seconds.
Alrighty GAF.
£500 to £600 to spend on a new gaming rig.
Build one for me here on Scan.co.uk and I will purchase it.
I need my games to look great. Games like Mass Effect 2 etc. Should all be playable on Full settings. Definitely want a 2GB GPU.
Help me out here gaf!
I already asked my friend. But he came up with a near £700 rig!
£500 to £600 to spend on a new gaming rig.
Build one for me here on Scan.co.uk and I will purchase it.
I need my games to look great. Games like Mass Effect 2 etc. Should all be playable on Full settings. Definitely want a 2GB GPU.
Help me out here gaf!
I already asked my friend. But he came up with a near £700 rig!
dangerbyrnes
Member
i was posting in the battlefield thread earlier. i filled out the questionnaire, and i hope i can get some help with building a new computer.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Intel Xeon 2 core / RAM 4gigs (2 usable) / X58 chipset, dell, model: 09KPNV/ Ati Firepro 2260 (lol)
Budget: around $600 (hopefully)
Main Use: general usage, gaming, 3D work
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3
Are reusing any parts?: yeah, the disk drive, the case, anything possible to cut down on price.
When will you build?: i can wait a month or so, would like to get in on the battlefield 3 beta.
Will you be overclocking?: I'm not too knowledgeable about it. so at the moment no.
i was planning to get a Radeon HD 6950, and unlocking it to a 6970. and 8 or 12 gigs of ram. but i will take any suggestions.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Intel Xeon 2 core / RAM 4gigs (2 usable) / X58 chipset, dell, model: 09KPNV/ Ati Firepro 2260 (lol)
Budget: around $600 (hopefully)
Main Use: general usage, gaming, 3D work
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3
Are reusing any parts?: yeah, the disk drive, the case, anything possible to cut down on price.
When will you build?: i can wait a month or so, would like to get in on the battlefield 3 beta.
Will you be overclocking?: I'm not too knowledgeable about it. so at the moment no.
i was planning to get a Radeon HD 6950, and unlocking it to a 6970. and 8 or 12 gigs of ram. but i will take any suggestions.
dangerbyrnes said:
$600 is cutting it close, but it can be done if you've got a case you can re-use, as well as an HDD, RAM, and PSU.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102945
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130571
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072
How big is the case/how many watts is the PSU?
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
LordCanti said:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2182682521164.121707.1069985230&l=e7bf2d965b&type=1
Can you see that? I don't think you need an FB to see... If not ill post elsewhere.
Also I tried.
I made a video, uploading but will take a minute.
SnakeSlashRO said:
I can see the pictures. It looks like the 12 pin and the 8 pin are both inserted (it's kind of hard to see the 8-pin, but if you're sure it's in, I believe you).
This is generally why I tell people to build their computer and get it running outside of the case first. Once things are in the case, it is a pain to work with them if something goes wrong.
Make sure the RAM is firmly seated, as well as the video card. There shouldn't be any wiggle up and down (for instance, if you push on it on one end, the other end shouldn't pop up) and both of the little locking clips should be securely clipped into the sides.
Hopefully the video will shed more light onto what is happening when you try to boot.
Edit: Did your motherboard manual tell you to put the RAM in the second and fourth slot? It should still boot, but if you're trying the "one stick of RAM" boot method, the first slot (the blue one, closest to the CPU) is the one you'd want it in.
Got my parts today and proceeded to whip it all together.
( Top wire is for the second Noctua fan I installed, wasn't installed at time of picture )
Cable management is a joke, yes - I'm not really into that.
I am however having a few "Hmmm" issues with the temperatures of the i7 2600k.
In BIOS, it says it's running 44* idle which is way too much. I scour the internet and find someone with a similar problem, apparently the idle temps in BIOS are way off. Okay, I install RealTemp per suggestion and sure enough, they are much lower.
Hovers around 29 - 35 however, there's some big fluctuations happening sporadically, it'll jump to 40-46 and then back down.
Same as the guy I found, someone replied;
So I'm guessing it's all well and dandy, definitely had me worried for a second.
Will see later once I get to test it during load and when the thermal paste actually sets - I installed it less than 15 minutes ago at time of temperature test - So it probably isn't even settled yet.
( Top wire is for the second Noctua fan I installed, wasn't installed at time of picture )
Cable management is a joke, yes - I'm not really into that.
I am however having a few "Hmmm" issues with the temperatures of the i7 2600k.
In BIOS, it says it's running 44* idle which is way too much. I scour the internet and find someone with a similar problem, apparently the idle temps in BIOS are way off. Okay, I install RealTemp per suggestion and sure enough, they are much lower.
Hovers around 29 - 35 however, there's some big fluctuations happening sporadically, it'll jump to 40-46 and then back down.
Same as the guy I found, someone replied;
So I'm guessing it's all well and dandy, definitely had me worried for a second.
Will see later once I get to test it during load and when the thermal paste actually sets - I installed it less than 15 minutes ago at time of temperature test - So it probably isn't even settled yet.
Tallshortman
Member
dangerbyrnes said:
CPU: If you can honestly wait a month wait for BD because if you want intel prices on SB chips will drop. If you can't wait, get an i5 2500k. $210, $180 if you live near a microcenter
GPU: 6950 is a great choice, though if you plan on unlocking it you'll want to make sure you find one that is unlockable. Also, there are risks to unlocking them so make sure you know what you're doing beforehand. $250+
Mobo: If you don't plan on overclocking and tweaking CPU settings a lower end P67 is fine and will save you money. Buy from a quality brand though. ~$100
You may also need to upgrade your PSU depending on what you have. You'll want a 500w and up PSU. Don't skimp on quality. ~$70+
You will be cutting it very close though.
dangerbyrnes
Member
LordCanti said:
Ok
case dimensions
height 17.64"
width 6.73"
depth 18.54"
not very wide
525 watt PSU.
Sethos said:
I wouldn't worry about idle temps that low (even 44 at idle is still within spec). At the end of the day, no damage is going to be done to a processor by idling in the 40-44 range. See what you get for load temps, because that is what really matters at the end of the day.
(oh, and your cable management is great)
dangerbyrnes said:
If you can, take a measurement from the back of the case (where the PCI-E slot is) to the first thing that obstructs it in the front of the case (a HDD cage, for instance). Compare that measurement to the length of a 6950 (somewhere in the 11-12 inch range). If it's close, you'll need to find the exact dimensions of the card you are buying, and compare. If you've got inches to spare, you should be fine there.
What brand PSU? 525w from a good brand would be fine, but if it's a no-name brand, you may run into issues.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
PSU sounds suspect to me, if some fans aren't running. Could also be the CPU or motherboard, I had a CPU die and had similar symptoms.
I'd do a PSU test, although that will mean unplugging all the power cables except the fans. Then use the method in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4
As for what you said below, a PC usually won't boot without a keyboard, but it won't go off. It will just stop. Do you have a motherboard speaker? That will beep in some manner and give an indication of what's going on.
@dangerbyrnes
Reusing some parts is going to be tough. You can get away with the HDD and optical drive. Maybe the RAM, although if you want more you will be better off buying all new RAM.
As long as the inside of the case is clear (and not like my junky HP case was) then you should be fine, but you're probably not going to fit any long video cards. 6900 series is really big, and I'm not sure if you can unlock the cards anymore. 560 Ti might be a better bet, and would probably fit your budget better.
PSU... reliability should be okay, but the power provided could be an issue. Check the wattage and +12 rails.
I'd do a PSU test, although that will mean unplugging all the power cables except the fans. Then use the method in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4
As for what you said below, a PC usually won't boot without a keyboard, but it won't go off. It will just stop. Do you have a motherboard speaker? That will beep in some manner and give an indication of what's going on.
@dangerbyrnes
Reusing some parts is going to be tough. You can get away with the HDD and optical drive. Maybe the RAM, although if you want more you will be better off buying all new RAM.
As long as the inside of the case is clear (and not like my junky HP case was) then you should be fine, but you're probably not going to fit any long video cards. 6900 series is really big, and I'm not sure if you can unlock the cards anymore. 560 Ti might be a better bet, and would probably fit your budget better.
PSU... reliability should be okay, but the power provided could be an issue. Check the wattage and +12 rails.
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
LordCanti said:
Thanks again for the continued support.
Its gonna be a minute.
Lastly, I don't have anything on the computer, I just have the power cable and hdmi plugged into a tv... could that be an issue? Nothing else is attached to it. (mouse, keyboard etc)
LordCanti said:
Thanks man,
You're right, idle temps doesn't really mean that much but they are a quick indicator of how the the cooler seating went and you can always expect a fairly consistent idle temp with a certain CPU and CPU cooler based off other people's numbers, if they are completely out of whack you know something's up.
SnakeSlashRO said:
No, it should boot to a screen telling you to insert boot media (or something along those lines) without a keyboard and mouse plugged in.
Sethos said:
If one of the cores is way out of whack, it could point to uneven thermal paste or something of that nature. If the temperature fluctuations happen across all the cores, that is an unlikely culprit though.
Changes in baseline temp can be due to poor case airflow, a hot room, etc. There are a lot of variables.
LordCanti said:
Currently Real Temp is giving me a 34* average and all the cores are fluctuating between 31 and 36 except one core that is doing 33-38, so nothing major.
As I said, I want to let the thermal paste set and spread out probably with the heat and then run some load temps to see if there's some real issues
I was however told I could always expect one i7 core possibly 2 of them to be running slightly hotter no matter what.
Sethos said:Currently Real Temp is giving me a 34* average and all the cores are fluctuating between 31 and 36 except one core that is doing 33-38, so nothing major.
As I said, I want to let the thermal paste set and spread out probably with the heat and then run some load temps to see if there's some real issues
Fire up some BF3 alpha footage in full screen, and pretend you are playing. That is a good way to stress test a computer
No it isn't, but I do it anyway. I can't go back to BC2 now, I'm ruined.
SnakeSlashRO said:
It wouldn't hurt to have the keyboard at least plugged in so you can get into the bios and check things out.
Your fans should all be spinning on startup. I know my mobo manual said to put the RAM in slot 1 and 3 first before adding others so double check that.
My next step would be unplugging everything from the PSU except the board, the video card and the fans and go from there. It may be a bum power supply.
Sethos said:Currently Real Temp is giving me a 34* average and all the cores are fluctuating between 31 and 36 except one core that is doing 33-38, so nothing major.
As I said, I want to let the thermal paste set and spread out probably with the heat and then run some load temps to see if there's some real issues
I was however told I could always expect one i7 core possibly 2 of them to be running slightly hotter no matter what.
Hey, better than mine. I average 40-41C idle with an i5 2500k and the same Hyper 212+.
Load is fine at ~51C stock though so I don't worry.
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
This is the video I made of my problem.
Pictures
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2182682521164.121707.1069985230&l=e7bf2d965b&type=1
Video of the Reboot cycle...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZxpeJykzRg
Pictures
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2182682521164.121707.1069985230&l=e7bf2d965b&type=1
Video of the Reboot cycle...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZxpeJykzRg
dangerbyrnes
Member
LordCanti said:
its a dell PSU
also, after looking inside a couple days ago i found that there was a lot of space between the back and the umm black plastic at the inside of the front, lol. it does cut a little close to the ram sticks though. (like an inch or 2) but there's really nothing in the way of me putting a 12 inch Graphics card there.
SnakeSlashRO said:
Looking at it, you've got the CPU fan on the wrong side. You want it pushing air across the heatsink from the front, not pulling it across from the back. That wouldn't prevent a boot though (not having the fan plugged into CPU_FAN might though. Double check that.)
Follow Garath's advice; Take the video card out, and see if it boots. Take all but one stick of RAM (in the first blue slot) out, and see if it boots. Unplug all the HDD's, and see if it boots.
If you have another PSU you could test (even a low power one) try it if all else fails. There were no diagnostic beeps, so it is difficult to tell why the mobo is turning off.
We had a guy in here last week that went through a bunch of steps to figure out why his HDD wasn't working, and in the end, he just hadn't plugged it in properly. My first question to him was "is the HDD plugged in properly" to which he answered "yes" lol. It can happen to the best of us, so step 1 is always making sure things are securely fastened.
dangerbyrnes said:
Look on the side, and tell us if it lists the 12v rail amperage (it should read like... 30A, 40A, etc).
Sethos said:Currently Real Temp is giving me a 34* average and all the cores are fluctuating between 31 and 36 except one core that is doing 33-38, so nothing major.
As I said, I want to let the thermal paste set and spread out probably with the heat and then run some load temps to see if there's some real issues
I was however told I could always expect one i7 core possibly 2 of them to be running slightly hotter no matter what.
This is normal. My 2600k does this as well (I use a Corsair H70 cooler). My temps are usually in the 32-35 range +/- a few degrees when idle. Like Canti said test your load temps though. I had my cooler seated wrong or something when I first put my machine together a couple of months ago and during Prime 95 my temps were hitting 90c or so. Now they hover between the 60-65 range @ 4.5ghz.
On a unrelated note picked up a few more things for my PC.
Went ahead and grabbed another 8GB of RAM from newegg. I realize I probably won't use 16GB of RAM but seeing how it is $60 now and I paid $105 when I built my machine in May, figured why not.
And I also got a ASUS Xonar sound card from Microcenter. First time using a dedicated sound card so I'm interested in hearing the diference.
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
LordCanti said:
AHh... I saw that motherboard speaker... I dont even see any instructions how to put it in......... but ill do the things you suggest. Ill post back.
Tallshortman
Member
LordCanti said:
Me too, though BC2 is the only modern game I can play right now that resembles BF3. I fired up BF2 the other day and found it did not age well...
dangerbyrnes
Member
LordCanti said:
i can't look at the actual inside right now (handicapped, need someone else to look for me). but i did find the battery online.
here's a pic of the sticker on it.
i see
/18A
/18A
/18A
/20A
/20A
/0.5A
SnakeSlashRO said:
Check your motherboard manual to locate the speaker connection. Plug it in, and it should give us some diagnostic beeps to go by.
You can try removing the video card first though, since it is a simple enough thing to do.
dangerbyrnes said:i can't look at the actual inside right now (handicapped, need someone else to look for me). but i did find the battery online.
here's a pic of the sticker on it.
i see
/18A
/18A
/18A
/20A
/20A
/0.5A
It's hard to tell, but it looks like it does the full 500w on the 12v rail (over three separate rails). That does meet Sapphire's minimum spec for the HD6950. It should work. I wouldn't try overclocking the card though (or the CPU).
How do folks feel about this for an 850W PSU?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PJ6QW4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Once I got building, I realized that I was in this for the long haul and would likely employ an SLI configuration, if not now with the GTX 560 ti, then down the line when something I plan on playing a long time (maybe Guild Wars 2?) could take advantage of the extra boost. So instead of the 650W Corsair PSU I have now, I'd like something more capable. And modular, even though the 600T is excellent at hiding cables, I don't like having to bunch up the (many) unused cables to get the right side panel back on easily.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PJ6QW4/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Once I got building, I realized that I was in this for the long haul and would likely employ an SLI configuration, if not now with the GTX 560 ti, then down the line when something I plan on playing a long time (maybe Guild Wars 2?) could take advantage of the extra boost. So instead of the 650W Corsair PSU I have now, I'd like something more capable. And modular, even though the 600T is excellent at hiding cables, I don't like having to bunch up the (many) unused cables to get the right side panel back on easily.
Hey guys, I've got a quick question about that refurbished GTX 460 that Newegg is selling for 110. I just bought one and installed it in my new rig, and for the most part it seems to be running fine and dandy. But the past two nights I've fallen asleep without shutting down my computer, and when I wake up and come back to it, the display isn't showing any more. The comp isn't going into sleep mode or turning the monitor off, it's the GPU not displaying properly. If I shut it down and reboot it, still nothing. Now, if I unplug one of the power cords coming to the card, then reboot, then shut down, replug the cord and *again* reboot, it'll magically work every time I mess with it in that order. Anyone know what's up? Anything I'm doing on this end, or should I maybe consider returning it to Newegg?
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
LordCanti said:
Well I don't know if I accidently removed too much, but when I removed the GFX card... It wouldn't power on at all...
Also ill install, I switched the side of the fan, I just moved it. Should it be like this???
Also the wires go though those 5 holes at the bottom correct?
LaneDS said:
Oh, then yeah, if you definitely think you'll SLI in the future, go for it. That unit is essentially as good as 1000w unit, and you are unlikely to need a new power supply again after purchasing it. It would do two GTX 580's in SLI without a problem.
I'd think SLI through really hard before doing it though. SLI = double the heat, double the noise, not quite double the FPS. I much prefer a single video card.
black_vegeta
Member
SnakeSlashRO said:
You need to have the motherboard plug into the PSU. The 8 pin and 24 pin should be connected. That's just to have power.
The fan looks correct. Usually, it will have an arrow indicator somewhere along to edge of the can telling which way the air is being pulled and pushed.
The 5 holes I guess are for your wires. Not to familiar with that case.
SnakeSlashRO said:Well I don't know if I accidently removed too much, but when I removed the GFX card... It wouldn't power on at all...
Also ill install, I switched the side of the fan, I just moved it. Should it be like this???
Also the wires go though those 5 holes at the bottom correct?
It looks like the PSU would block those holes.
You've removed the front panel connectors needlessly (were they in the way of removing the video card)? It wouldn't have started with those unplugged.
Plug the 12pin connector back in, and the 8-pin CPU connector (not to be confused with the 8-pin PCI-E connector). Then plug the front panel connectors back in and try to boot it. (why did you unplug the 12 and 8 pins?)
Another question: You used the motherboard standoffs, right? If the case came with standoffs (little brass things that screw into the case, that you then screw the motherboard into) you need to use them.
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
LordCanti said:
I wanted to do this test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4)
My PSU did it perfectly, no stops or anything... my MoBO has no graphics without the card, so I should still plug it in anyway? Ill go ahead and attach the speaker then ill do that.
SnakeSlashRO said:
Try it without the video card first. At this point, I just want to make sure that everything is getting plugged in properly.
So:
Plug in speaker
Plug in 12pin + 8pin
Plug in front panel connectors
(Leave RAM where it is)
Try to boot.
You'll hear it boot properly, even if you can't see anything on the monitor. If it does boot properly, turn it off, and install the video card. Then try to boot again.
(Make sure that you actually have used standoffs in your case.)
black_vegeta
Member
nvm
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
LordCanti said:
Ill let you know, ill do this now.
SnakeSlashRO said:
Depending on the mobo, it may require a video card to boot properly. Definitely don't panic until you've tried it with the video card in.
Also, you could try plugging in a keyboard, and continuously tapping the bios key (F1 on a lot of mobo's, sometimes escape. Check your manual.) to see if it will go to bios.
Coldsnap said:
You could buy a mounting arm, and put the monitor on that. Or, you could buy adhesive velcro squares, and velcro the thing to the surface of your desk.
I make extensive use of velcro squares.
- Status