"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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sk3tch said:
CPUID Hardware Monitor (linked in OP) is a great overview app.

ColonelColon said:
All of these programs monitor computer temperatures:
Speedfan (also allows you to adjust fan speed)- http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php
HWMonitor- http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Real Temp (this one is actually incompatible with my CPU)- http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/

Thanks but what should I do to get my temps up? Should I just take note of temps during a normal gaming session or load the graphics card and processor with benchmark programs and take temps
 
Coldsnap said:
Thanks but what should I do to get my temps up? Should I just take note of temps during a normal gaming session or load the graphics card and processor with benchmark programs and take temps

Run prime95, also linked in the OP. That'll get your CPU temps up.
 
zaidr said:
Whats the reason you're disabling the C-states? Are you trying to overclock or something?
The reason your idle temps are higher is because you are disabling the CPU's ability to throttle itself at idle. Normally, the CPU will lower its multiplier at idle to reduce heat/temps, and raise it up (instantaneously) when in use. SandyBridge CPU's usually go down to 16x i think. SB chips also have the other benefit of throttling down its vcore as well, to reduce wear on the chip when not in use. This is all C1E i'm talking about. C3 and C6 states refer to the CPU behaviour when you put the system in sleep mode, if I remember correctly...

So, you may want to keep that stuff on, since why wouldn't you want a CPU that runs cooler for most day to day use and lasts longer overall?

because as i said, i get a ridiculously loud whine when putting the slightest load into it if i dont disable that. Seems like any kind of power saving messes up with this particular PSU, hence why im disabling it, all im wondering is if its safe to use the PC regulary like this.
 
Ordered my CPU cooler... going to up to 4.5ghz (i5 2500k) and probably just let it hang out around there when it comes in. Will be my first attempt at an OC!
 
Soi-Fong said:
This might be a silly question, but what is the optimal temperature range inside your computer in terms of fahrenheit?
Depends on what component you're referring to. Also, PC temps are almost always use celcuis and not fahrenheit.

You're best off looking at the manufacturer's specs for your parts, they'll give you the temps you'll want to keep them under. Every part is going to have a different maximum temperature, even two different models of the same component. Sandy Bridge CPUs can run a bit hotter than Phenom IIs. And high end GPUs will run a lot hotter than mid range ones.
 
chaosblade said:
Depends on what component you're referring to. Also, PC temps are almost always use celcuis and not fahrenheit.

You're best off looking at the manufacturer's specs for your parts, they'll give you the temps you'll want to keep them under. Every part is going to have a different maximum temperature, even two different models of the same component. Sandy Bridge CPUs can run a bit hotter than Phenom IIs. And high end GPUs will run a lot hotter than mid range ones.

Ah alright. Thanks for the tip.
 
HELP pc gaf! my computer wont boot anymore! i think it may be the PSU :( (corsair tx750) when i flip the swicth on the back of it nothing happens! this is after I took the pc apart and relocated the 12 pin power :(((.the first time I booted it up after re routing the 12 pin cable it tried to boot up and booted right back down :( plz tell me I havent friend my system :(
The LEDs on my GFX card and start and reset buttons on my mobo illiminate but nothing else. :(
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
HELP pc gaf! my computer wont boot anymore! i think it may be the PSU :( (corsair tx750) when i flip the swicth on the back of it nothing happens! this is after I took the pc apart and relocated the 12 pin power :(((.the first time I booted it up after re routing the 12 pin cable it tried to boot up and booted right back down :( plz tell me I havent friend my system :(
The LEDs on my GFX card and start and reset buttons on my mobo illiminate but nothing else. :(

Make sure the 12pin is seated well. Unplug it and plug it back in. Also, did you maybe forget to plug in the extra 6 pin power for the CPU?
 
couple of general PC nub questions:
Whats the deal with using 2 graphics cards? How does this work, and what is the benefit? Is it better to have one high end gpu, or two lower/mid level ones?

And overclocking: As i understand it, you're basically pushing your cpu past its normal potential with the main tradeoff being things getting hotter. Is it safe to say this is something you shouldn't try with a stock heatsink fan? From what I've seen installing a third party fan (with thermal paste and everything) is one of the more complicated parts about putting together a pc, or at least its more complicated than installing the standard heatsink. I'm just trying to weigh the pros and cons of this as a first time pc builder. I've been thinking about going with the i5 2500k which I hear is good for overclocking, but wondering if that's too ambitious for a nub like myself.
 
pedr0theli0n said:
couple of general PC nub questions:
Whats the deal with using 2 graphics cards? How does this work, and what is the benefit? Is it better to have one high end gpu, or two lower/mid level ones?
.

You connect the cards together with an SLI bridge. The benefit of two cards is more performance than any single gpu out there ( obviously granted you use high end cards, using two 20$ cards won't give you a 600$ solution :p ). Another benefit is price, you end up paying less for more performance.

The downside is driver/game +sli related issues, the vram isn't added up ( two 1gb gpus have less total vram than one 1,5gb gpu ), it can be slightly cumbersome to play demanding games day 1 due to this. It is much better to have a high end card instead of two low-end ones. Always, if you have the money.
 
pedr0theli0n said:
couple of general PC nub questions:
Whats the deal with using 2 graphics cards? How does this work, and what is the benefit? Is it better to have one high end gpu, or two lower/mid level ones?

And overclocking: As i understand it, you're basically pushing your cpu past its normal potential with the main tradeoff being things getting hotter. Is it safe to say this is something you shouldn't try with a stock heatsink fan? From what I've seen installing a third party fan (with thermal paste and everything) is one of the more complicated parts about putting together a pc, or at least its more complicated than installing the standard heatsink. I'm just trying to weigh the pros and cons of this as a first time pc builder. I've been thinking about going with the i5 2500k which I hear is good for overclocking, but wondering if that's too ambitious for a nub like myself.

I'm about as dumb as you can get when it comes to putting together something technical and I just built my very own computer after years of having someone else do it for me.

Installing the heatsink is probably one of the harder things to do but it is still fairly easy to do.
 
Hey guys, any advice on picking between getting another 1GB 460 or getting something like a 570 or something? I'm torn. Does 460 SLI need a lot more than 600w? Does it get really hot?
 
Foxtastical said:
Hey guys, any advice on picking between getting another 1GB 460 or getting something like a 570 or something? I'm torn. Does 460 SLI need a lot more than 600w? Does it get really hot?
Check out the link to the SLI/Crossfire guide in the OP. If you can, I'd suggest waiting for the 7xxx series or Kepler. 7xxx is out in Q4, Kepler is late Q1 2012.
 
Foxtastical said:
Hey guys, any advice on picking between getting another 1GB 460 or getting something like a 570 or something? I'm torn. Does 460 SLI need a lot more than 600w? Does it get really hot?


I'm not expert, but after reading such threads, its been said by people who know what they talk about that the word is, single GPU is better than sli or cross fire.

In your case I believe a single gtx 570 is and will perform better than your 460sli.
 
The_Squirrel_Menace said:
I'm not expert, but after reading such threads, its been said by people who know what they talk about that the word is, single GPU is better than sli or cross fire.

In your case I believe a single gtx 570 is and will perform better than your 460sli.
Yes, single card is way better. But, when the games have SLI profiles, 460GTX SLI outperforms a 580. That is, when it works properly.
 
garath said:
Make sure the 12pin is seated well. Unplug it and plug it back in. Also, did you maybe forget to plug in the extra 6 pin power for the CPU?

everything is plugged in man :( i wanna go buy another psu to maybe see if thats the problem. :(

So what do u guys think? Motherboard or psu problem?
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
everything is plugged in man :( i wanna go buy another psu to maybe see if thats the problem. :(

test the PSU by trying to jump start it

switch it off, unplug from the wall and unplug all components except for an optical drive, then take your ATX-24 pin cable and connect the green wire with a black wire using a paperclip

if your PSU starts working when you switch it on again (fan runs, optical drive can open/close) it should be OK

Google "jump start PSU" for images/vids/guides etc
 
n0n44m said:
test the PSU by trying to jump start it

unplug everything except for an optical drive, then take your ATX-24 pin cable and connect the green wire with a black wire using a paperclip

if your PSU starts working (fan runs, optical drive can open/close) it should be OK

Google "jump start PSU" for images/vids/guides etc

I will try that...does it matter that my psu fan doesnt start at all right now though with everything connected?
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
I will try that...does it matter that my psu fan doesnt start at all right now though with everything connected?

could be motherboard breaking connection as well ... therefore do the PSU test as it should always work when shorting green+black (it's what the motherboard does essentially while the PC is on)

just make sure you always load it up with something like an optical drive or an old harddisk, some fans or something, as PSUs often won't turn on when there is nothing connected at all

edit: btw you mentioned it happened after moving some connector ... are you sure that one was plugged in alright? Hold it against the light and check if the copper doesn't have any burn/scorch marks
 
n0n44m said:
could be motherboard breaking connection as well ... therefore do the PSU test as it should always work when shorting green+black (it's what the motherboard does essentially while the PC is on)

just make sure you always load it up with something like an optical drive or an old harddisk, some fans or something, as PSUs often won't turn on when there is nothing connected at all

edit: btw you mentioned it happened after moving some connector ... are you sure that one was plugged in alright? Hold it against the light and check if the copper doesn't have any burn/scorch marks

Im gonna be completely honest. I treid to reroute the 8 pin power connector (4+4) for better cable management and i dont think one of the 4 pins was connected good enough. The Pc powered on shortly (maybe a split second) then turned off. Im gonna check to see if its burnt right now.
 
Im back. So I did the PSU Jump and it worked perfectly. Started the psu fan and the case fan.

looks like I will be RMAing a 170 dollar board :( any way i can test the GPU to make sure it is alright and wasnt affected?

Thanks again non44m. Since I bought the board within 30 days is there any way I could get it back to Amazon and just have them send me another board?
 
Clydefrog said:
No idea. Things sound fucked up, though. Save whatever files you need and format!

scogoth said:
Backup your data and try wiping the drive and reinstalling windows.

Erm...I'm really stupid about this kind of stuff. What is formatting? How do I wipe the drive? Will I be able to use my Windows 7 student upgrade disc again, even if I've already activated it? Will it work if I get a new harddrive and try installing it on that?
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
So what would be the smart thing to do guys? RMA through Asus or send it back to Amazon?

before you do that, try resetting CMOS, use the MEM-OK button, try with only 1 stick of RAM in different slots, try with another videocard (or without if the motherboard has its own graphical output) or with the card in another slot
 
pirata said:
Erm...I'm really stupid about this kind of stuff. What is formatting? How do I wipe the drive? Will I be able to use my Windows 7 student upgrade disc again, even if I've already activated it? Will it work if I get a new harddrive and try installing it on that?

data corruption is a bit freaky ... could be anything from the harddisk to the SATA controller on the motherboard to the cable in between ... harddisk is the usual suspect though. Other possibility is the RAM, although that usually just crashes the pc before the garbled data is written to disk.

formatting and reinstalling will only solve things if this was some freak occurrence. I'd start by downloading something like HD Tune or CrystalDiskInfo and check the SMART status of your drive. If those yield no clues, run Memtest86+

In general, make sure there is no FSB overclocking going on, and just use the normal Windows 7 drivers (aka don't install other drivers unless you are running a RAID setup) with the SATA controller set to AHCI in bios.

Some quick *possible* but unlikely solutions; if you have another SATA cable lying around (motherboards come with plenty) you can swap it as well just to be sure (chances of a broken cable are small but still =] ), and you can put it in another port as well.

If you're in a hurry, just grab a new harddrive as that is the most likely problem.
If you have more time and want to try wiping the current drive and reinstall, just use the bootdisk, select custom installation and format the entire drive (aka wiping all data), then install on the new clean partition.
 
Just got my last parts delivered today! Will be building, testing, and overclocking over the weekend (as long as nothing bad happens). I'll post full specs and pictures tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's help!

Total price of the build came out to $686.95. Pretty happy with it.
 
this is what my OCZ vertex 3 shows, is it is just me or is it a bit slow in sec write speeds and 4k read?

KPQ49.png
[/URL][/IMG]
 
n0n44m said:
before you do that, try resetting CMOS, use the MEM-OK button, try with only 1 stick of RAM in different slots, try with another videocard (or without if the motherboard has its own graphical output) or with the card in another slot

Tried everything you said. =/ either my 8 pin connector on my psu is blown or my motherboard is fried. When i turn the power switch on my PSU, the Start LED on my motherboard flickers a little but it still illuminates. =/ Its not showing any POST LEDs though =/
 
Need some help. Do I need to build a new PC if I want to run BF3 at 1920X1080 / 60FPS? Or can I get away with what I have, or else just upgrading to better memory and/or a second GTX460 and going SLI?

Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU Q9550 @ 2.83GHz
8 GB RAM -- Kingston 800 MHZ (DDR2)
GeForce GTX 460 (768 MB) 720/1800/1440 (Stock)
Windows 7 Ultimate

Thanks.
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
Tried everything you said. =/ either my 8 pin connector on my psu is blown or my motherboard is fried. When i turn the power switch on my PSU, the Start LED on my motherboard flickers a little but it still illuminates. =/ Its not showing any POST LEDs though =/

if you have a multimeter you could test the PSU's 8 pin connector by checking whether it supplies 12V (yellow = +12 , black = ground), although it's unlikely that a single cable is damaged

then I'd assume the board is indeed dead. If Amazon immediately swaps it that's preferred, if they just sent it to Asus for their judgement you're better of doing that yourself
 
i bought an XFX 6850 about 2-3 weeks ago on newegg. they are now offering deus ex human revolution voucher /w those video cards.

is it worth emailing to see if they'll give me one, or is it pretty pointless? i dunno.
 
jaaz said:
Need some help. Do I need to build a new PC if I want to run BF3 at 1920X1080 / 60FPS? Or can I get away with what I have, or else just upgrading to better memory and/or a second GTX460 and going SLI?

Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU Q9550 @ 2.83GHz
8 GB RAM -- Kingston 800 MHZ (DDR2)
GeForce GTX 460 (768 MB) 720/1800/1440 (Stock)
Windows 7 Ultimate

Thanks.

Better memory = DDR3? That would require another motherboard and isn't worth it

GTX 460 SLI isn't too shabby but the 768 MB VRAM might limit the amount of AA at 1080p

I'd say if you can overclock that C2Q somewhat, your current setup should already play it pretty well. Just wait till the beta, then see how it runs and how much you're either CPU or VRAM limited. If neither is the case and you still want higher fps you can go SLI (assuming SLI support is OK)

Chesskid1 said:
i bought an XFX 6850 about 2-3 weeks ago on newegg. they are now offering deus ex human revolution voucher /w those video cards.

is it worth emailing to see if they'll give me one, or is it pretty pointless? i dunno.

no harm trying ey. I got Mafia II from some Dutch shop after asking when they gave it away 1 week after I bought my GTX480
 
Here in Canada NCIX has both a PNY 580 and the Powercolor 6870x2 for $400. Reviews seem to favor the 6870x2 but I wanted to get some other opinions before I bite the bullet. Am I missing something by staying with ATI (I have a 4890 now) like better AA, PhysX, etc on Nvidia?
 
jaaz said:
Need some help. Do I need to build a new PC if I want to run BF3 at 1920X1080 / 60FPS? Or can I get away with what I have, or else just upgrading to better memory and/or a second GTX460 and going SLI?

Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU Q9550 @ 2.83GHz
8 GB RAM -- Kingston 800 MHZ (DDR2)
GeForce GTX 460 (768 MB) 720/1800/1440 (Stock)
Windows 7 Ultimate

Thanks.

No one knows the accurate recommended for BF3 as of yet. From what the rumors say, the demos at Gamescom are running off of 1 GTX580. Sooooo, your single 460 won't probably cut it for the performance you want. Most likely you'll have to SLI.

Wait until we get more info, then make your decision.
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
Tried everything you said. =/ either my 8 pin connector on my psu is blown or my motherboard is fried. When i turn the power switch on my PSU, the Start LED on my motherboard flickers a little but it still illuminates. =/ Its not showing any POST LEDs though =/
Do you have any other PCs in your house/apartment? Any understanding friends or relatives that live near by? You can try briefly swapping in a PSU from another PC, just to quickly test things out. Doing so would be less hassle than going through RMA, if it's not need. Apart from that, you'd need to buy one from a local store, and deal with returning it later when you're done.


Flying Toaster said:
A second 460 for SLI is a great idea if you have the newer one that has more onboard mem than the original 768.
That's a no go.


jaaz said:
Need some help. Do I need to build a new PC if I want to run BF3 at 1920X1080 / 60FPS? Or can I get away with what I have, or else just upgrading to better memory and/or a second GTX460 and going SLI?

Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU Q9550 @ 2.83GHz
8 GB RAM -- Kingston 800 MHZ (DDR2)
GeForce GTX 460 (768 MB) 720/1800/1440 (Stock)
Windows 7 Ultimate

Thanks.
Overclock your CPU. The average Q9550 can do ~3.6-3.8GHz, easily. Beyond that, you'd need capable components, and bit of patience.

As has been said, see how the game runs when released. I would not run two 768MB 460s, even at that resolution. You could always sell off your card and get a higher end model.
 
BadTaste105 said:
Does Turbo Boost from Intel chips affect all cores when gaming?

i7 920

No, games don't use 4 cores. It will boost the active cores as high as it can without exceeding its Thermal Design Power(TDP).


mkenyon said:
Check out the link to the SLI/Crossfire guide in the OP. If you can, I'd suggest waiting for the 7xxx series or Kepler. 7xxx is out in Q4, Kepler is late Q1 2012.

And then SLI the GTX680!
 
Smokey said:
I have the ASUS model. The 120hz refresh rate is indeed amazing. Makes everything incredibly smooth especially FPS. I don't have the 3D kit yet but everything I've heard is that it looks very good, but this also depends on how it is implemented within each game. Nvidia pushes 3D hard and there's the added benefit of being able to game in 1080p and keep the IQ from going to shit on the PC. I have a Samsung D8000 as well for my TV and the 3D gaming with PS3 is hit or miss, mainly because of the reduction of the resolution. The actual effect though is nice, at least to me. With 580 SLI you'd be able to run it at 1080p and have a great framerate the majority of the time.

If you're buying it just for the 120hz then I dunno if it'd be worth it that's your call since as these monitors are $300+. From my personal experience it's wonderful and definitely enhances games and just general PC usage.
Thanks for the impressions. Guess I'll be going for a PLANAR panel.

evil solrac v3.0 said:
this is what my OCZ vertex 3 shows, is it is just me or is it a bit slow in sec write speeds and 4k read?

http://i.imgur.com/KPQ49.png[img][/quote]
Well, you're not too far off from what I'm showing, but then I'm on firmware 2.09. However, if your drive works on your current firmware, [b]do not change it[/b] unless you have huge cajones and are willing to deal with potential problems.

[img]http://www.abload.de/img/benchqccp.png
 
garath said:
That sounds like RAM or harddrive.. either bad RAM, failing harddrive or a bad overclock.

If you aren't overclocking, try pulling out all but one of the RAM sticks and see if you are any better. If so, swap and try the other RAM.

You could(should) also run memtest.



It's easier than you think really. Get the new HD, plug it in (I usually take the old one out at this point), install windows on the new HD, then attach the second drive and copy whatever you need onto the main drive.
What if my pc is an hp and it did not come with a windows disc but with a portion of the drive dedicated to recovery?
 
AiTM said:
Getting a new card this week, either a 570 or 580. Any input, suggestions, recommendations?

Custom cooler if you value noise levels (either Asus, or MSI are the top recommendations). EVGA for stock cooler (my preference, due to their outstanding warranties).

570 if you can live with not having every last setting on maximum @1080p
580 if you think you need the absolute top performance from a single GPU.

Also, do yourself a favor and check benchmarks for the games you mean to play. There are tons of 570 vs 580 comparisons out there, for pretty much any resolution you could be playing in.
 
Two questions: My girlfriend wants to get a pre packaged laptop for 700 dollars and is leaning towards the 15r that has 8gb and the i5 that is on the Dell site. What would you guys recommend? Also, I am building a desktop for video editing and effects. What would you guys recommend at the minimum before I will clip frames? Thank you.
 
AlternativeUlster said:
Two questions: My girlfriend wants to get a pre packaged laptop for 700 dollars and is leaning towards the 15r that has 8gb and the i5 that is on the Dell site. What would you guys recommend? Also, I am building a desktop for video editing and effects. What would you guys recommend at the minimum before I will clip frames? Thank you.

I don't know much about laptops (laptop-GAF, linked in the OP, is your best bet there).

For your second question, you'd need to be more specific about budget. Ideally, you'd want a processor with hyper threading (which would mean the 2600k most likely, currently) but it's also $300 by itself, and if that doesn't fit in the budget, it's hard to recommend it.
 
evil solrac v3.0 said:
this is what my OCZ vertex 3 shows, is it is just me or is it a bit slow in sec write speeds and 4k read?

KPQ49.png
[/URL][/IMG]



You must have missed my posts a few days ago when I ranted at OCZ for posting such misleading specs. Yes your Vertex 3 just sucks in that area. Just like my Agility is great in that area butt has shit sequential read/writes.
 
So I'm considering jumping from a 4870 with 512MB ram to either a 560 Ti/6950 or 560/6870. I'm mainly interested in playing The Witcher 2 without stuttering, Deus Ex Human Revolution, Skyrim, probably Batman: Arkham City, and possibly Rage sometime in the future. Which would be the most practical choice to grab for playing 1680x1050? I have an i5 2500k so CPU's not a concern.

Edit: I'd also prefer to keep it around 200, though $260 is acceptable if the MSI 560ti Hawk is just that good.
 
LordCanti said:
I don't know much about laptops (laptop-GAF, linked in the OP, is your best bet there).

For your second question, you'd need to be more specific about budget. Ideally, you'd want a processor with hyper threading (which would mean the 2600k most likely, currently) but it's also $300 by itself, and if that doesn't fit in the budget, it's hard to recommend it.

Whoopsy daisy. Clicked on the first link and took me to another forum. Last time I had a PC that did video editing was on a Pentium III and that was like in 2000 or some nonsense like that. Haha. Will post about the laptop in that other thread.
 
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