"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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HOW DID IT TAKE ME THIS LONG TO FIND THIS THREAD.

I'm comfortable with technology plenty, and built PC's in my past. But i'm so far behind in technology, that the spreadsheet in the OP is like a godsend. I don't feel like i need to catch up with four years of technology I've missed out on. I plan on going fully with the Enhanced build from Hazaro. Anyone have any input on that?
 
You know, I didn't even notice the Hyper TX3 was a 96 mm fan. Yeah, I'm going to have to change that. Not sure I want to go liquid though, so I may just go ahead and pony up for the FRIO.
Click to expand...

All in one liquid coolers don't require any maintenance or anything like custom loops. It's really no different than an air cooler in the end. Hard not to recommend it as a "free" upgrade, as it will at least come close to high end air coolers.

If you're sure you don't want it though, the Frio is not bad choice either. Plus it has a $20 rebate and it's only a $20 upgrade.
 
cwmartin said:
HOW DID IT TAKE ME THIS LONG TO FIND THIS THREAD.

I'm comfortable with technology plenty, and built PC's in my past. But i'm so far behind in technology, that the spreadsheet in the OP is like a godsend. I don't feel like i need to catch up with four years of technology I've missed out on. I plan on going fully with the Enhanced build from Hazaro. Anyone have any input on that?
Click to expand...

If you don't opt for the optional SSD in the build (price not included in the build) you'll probably want to opt for a 7200 rpm HDD. I'd recommend a WD caviar black or Samsung spinpoint F3. Everything else in that build is rock solid.
 
Corky said:
By now ram has become like HDDs, I wouldn't raise an eyebrow if twice the amount of ram only cost like 25% more.
Click to expand...

Yeah dude I scooped up another 8GB a few weeks ago for this reason. The 8GB pack I bought in May ran me $110 or so. Not sure if it can get all that much cheaper at the moment.
 
Tallshortman said:
If you don't opt for the optional SSD in the build (price not included in the build) you'll probably want to opt for a 7200 rpm HDD. I'd recommend a WD caviar black or Samsung spinpoint F3. Everything else in that build is rock solid.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. I like all the components in the enhanced 800 build, but like the NZXT Source case the best. Any insight into case quality? I mainly want one that is reasonably quiet. Or is that completely dependent on the quality of fans that I outfit it with?
 
chaosblade said:
All in one liquid coolers don't require any maintenance or anything like custom loops. It's really no different than an air cooler in the end. Hard not to recommend it as a "free" upgrade, as it will at least come close to high end air coolers.

If you're sure you don't want it though, the Frio is not bad choice either. Plus it has a $20 rebate and it's only a $20 upgrade.
Click to expand...

I've never used liquid cooling before but if there really is no real maintenance concern with that one, I don't see why I wouldn't save a few bucks and go with it. Thanks!
 
I really feel sorry for my grandparents. They had me build them a PC a while back when RAM was pretty much at it's highest price. I think they ended up paying like $80 or something for 4GB. And had to RMA it twice.

Tonner Cyn said:
I've never used liquid cooling before but if there really is no real maintenance concern with that one, I don't see why I wouldn't save a few bucks and go with it. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I'm using an H50, and while it ended up being a downgrade from my previous cooler, I haven't touched it since I installed it about a year ago.
 
Kurashima said:
People have posted builds here with the R3 and a DCU II cooler, so it won't be a problem.

As for the fans, you could always experiment with 3 or 4 in there. I'd start by putting an extra in the front and keeping the top blocked off, as that'll be quietest. Then take ones of the fronts (or an extra fan if possible) and put it on the top. You can also try using the bottom intake. I'd do the side panel last if needed, as that'll bring dust into the case.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the pointers. I'll skip the TriCool's for now, reuse the Noctua and get a new, properly airshuffling one.
tjYop.jpg
 
Sold on going to the H60 for cooling.

Someone is telling me that I don't need a SATA-III hdd as it can't really take advantage of the 6 gb/s. Is that true? It is only a $9 saving but...

Same person is also telling me to go with a 1000w Cooler Master Silent Pro Gaming 80 Plus psu. It adds $20 to my cost but comes with a $30 MIR but do i really need that much power?
 
Alright so it's time for a new build. I'm on the hunt for the biggest, baddest case I can find. The bigger the better, so what's the largest full tower that money can buy.

Going to be going from a C2D 3.5 ghz and GTX 275 to a Core i7 2600k and GTX 580. Now I've been hearing some rumors around about Sandy Bridge-E as the newest Intel high end platform. When is this releasing, and is performance going to be substantially more then a 2600 k?
 
I have a H70 and it was a bitch to install by myself. Provides good enough temps for me. You can find air coolers with better temps for the price, but I really like the clean look of the Corsair watercoolers.

sp3000 said:
Alright so it's time for a new build. I'm on the hunt for the biggest, baddest case I can find. The bigger the better, so what's the largest full tower that money can buy.

Going to be going from a C2D 3.5 ghz and GTX 275 to a Core i7 2600k and GTX 580. Now I've been hearing some rumors around about Sandy Bridge-E as the newest Intel high end platform. When is this releasing, and is performance going to be substantially more then a 2600 k?
Click to expand...

Next year I believe. Will require a new socket from current SBs :(
 
Hazaro said:
Swap the CX600W for an XFX Core 550W.
How much difference is an M4 SSD?
Maybe the G.Skill Snipers for lower heatsink on RAM.

Are you positive a full ATX board with a 570 and Mugen 2 will fit?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

No idea if it will all fit. Seems like you and n0n44m think it will not. So it probably won't :-/
Will look into a different SSD, but this seems to be the best bang-for-buck available at the store i'm buying from. Will that XFX PSU deliver enough power if i choose to upgrade my GPU at a later date or would i be better off going with a 650? Will look into the G.Skill snipers. The Vengeance ram seems to be the weapon of choice at this store.
 
Smokey said:
I have a H70 and it was a bitch to install by myself. Provides good enough temps for me. You can find air coolers with better temps for the price, but I really like the clean look of the Corsair watercoolers.



Next year I believe. Will require a new socket from current SBs :(
Click to expand...

Sandy bridge will be socket 2011 (?), but Ivy bridge with the 3d transistors will apparently be 1155.
 
Tonner Cyn said:
Sold on going to the H60 for cooling.

Someone is telling me that I don't need a SATA-III hdd as it can't really take advantage of the 6 gb/s. Is that true? It is only a $9 saving but...

Same person is also telling me to go with a 1000w Cooler Master Silent Pro Gaming 80 Plus psu. It adds $20 to my cost but comes with a $30 MIR but do i really need that much power?
Click to expand...
SATA III is pointless for HDDs, and even slower SSDs. Might as well save the $9. Didn't catch that your list or I would have commented, rarely see SATA III HDDs brought up in this thread.

And you don't need the extra watts, and the Corsair is probably a better PSU quality-wise. Don't really know anything about CM's, but if it's not bad then you might as well get the extra $10 from the rebate.

I have a H70 and it was a bitch to install by myself. Provides good enough temps for me. You can find air coolers with better temps for the price, but I really like the clean look of the Corsair watercoolers.
Click to expand...
He's getting it as a "free" upgrade and it's coming pre-built. :D
 
sp3000 said:
Alright so it's time for a new build. I'm on the hunt for the biggest, baddest case I can find. The bigger the better, so what's the largest full tower that money can buy.

Going to be going from a C2D 3.5 ghz and GTX 275 to a Core i7 2600k and GTX 580. Now I've been hearing some rumors around about Sandy Bridge-E as the newest Intel high end platform. When is this releasing, and is performance going to be substantially more then a 2600 k?
Click to expand...
yeah, seems like most folks here skimp out for mediocre cases (ahem HAF cases...)

if you want a sleek, sexy case, you can't go wrong with Lian Li.

or the Corsair Obsidian 800D

Or get this Thermaltake case designed by BMW

BMW-Carscoop-DS4.jpg
 
cwmartin said:
Thanks man. I like all the components in the enhanced 800 build, but like the NZXT Source case the best. Any insight into case quality? I mainly want one that is reasonably quiet. Or is that completely dependent on the quality of fans that I outfit it with?
Click to expand...
Solid case for the price, though, keep in mind, it's built to meet a certain price point. The $50 Elite version just adds a few things that the $40 vanilla Source 210 lacks. Not surprisingly, the quality and feature set isn't up to the level you'll find in $80-120 range. I wouldn't use it for a high end, or upper mid level build, personally. You'd need to add fans and such, which would drive up the price.

Did you check out the case recommendation section of the OP? If you mention a rough budget, build size/type, I could make some other suggestions.


Raoh said:
cool, i'll start investigating some upcoming models and add a 6000 series to my cart and monitor its price drop at the same time.

any specific models I should be eyeing? and will they require a better power supply than i currently have?

thank you.
Click to expand...
GTX 560 Ti, GTX 570 1.2GB/2.5GB, 6950 1GB/2GB, 6970
6970s and 570s should eventually fall within ~$180-240 with deals. At the same time, both companies should have mid range 28nm GPUs that offer comparable performance, with considerably lower power consumption.


sp3000 said:
Alright so it's time for a new build. I'm on the hunt for the biggest, baddest case I can find. The bigger the better, so what's the largest full tower that money can buy.

Going to be going from a C2D 3.5 ghz and GTX 275 to a Core i7 2600k and GTX 580. Now I've been hearing some rumors around about Sandy Bridge-E as the newest Intel high end platform. When is this releasing, and is performance going to be substantially more then a 2600 k?
Click to expand...
While it isn't the biggest or "best" necessarily, the Xigmatek Elysium is a quality, spacious case at $200.

http://www.xigmatek.com/product.php?productid=122

MPslN.jpg

UYkC1.jpg


Of course, you can get an even larger enclosure so long as you have the budget for it.
 
squicken said:
Any recommendations on a low cost case for a second PC. Needs to be mid-tower, but not too big. I don't need it to be tool-less or anything like that, but can't be a m-ATX b/c the board will be ATX. Was thinking about this Rosewill

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147073

but am concerned about it's lack of cooling. Something similar with a top vent would be ideal
Click to expand...
The $30 Xigmatek Asgard II Hazaro listed in the OP would be a better option.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...Order=BESTMATCH&Description=asgard+ii&x=0&y=0

Same price as that Rosewill, and the all black version has cheaper shipping. The same case is sold by at least 5-6 different companies (including Newegg), but Xigmatek rebrand of it is the least expensive.

Also take a look at the Diablotek Evo, NZXT Source 210, BitFenix Merc Aplha and Merc Beta. If you don't mind the extra $10, the Evo is a great case at that price. Solid build, good space, and it comes with four fans. There isn't a great deal of space behind the motherboard to route the thickest of cables, but that's one of its few negatives. BTW, if you don't like lights, you can either leave the LEDs for the front fan and I/O disconnected, or cut them.
 
 
Is there a point in getting a GTX 560ti over a HD6950? The 6950 beats in all benchmarks I'm looking at and it's the same price.
 
Hey everyone. I'm planning on getting my first dedicated PC and I want it to be a gaming PC. I've talked with some of my friends about what kind of stuff they have in their pc's and was able to get this list of things one of them has and she got it for about $600.

x0NBS.png


That's excluding a monitor. Would this build be acceptable by PC GAF standards, or should I just go for the one in the OP? Mixing and matching would be fine by me too.
 
PigSpeakers said:
Hey everyone. I'm planning on getting my first dedicated PC and I want it to be a gaming PC. I've talked with some of my friends about what kind of stuff they have in their pc's and was able to get this list of things one of them has and she got it for about $600.

http://i.imgur.com/x0NBS.png

That's excluding a monitor. Would this build be acceptable by PC GAF standards, or should I just go for the one in the OP? Mixing and matching would be fine by me too.
Click to expand...
Missing a CPU and RAM, but that aside the build in the OP has much higher quality parts. Wouldn't recommend either Raidmax part (especially the PSU) or the Caviar Black since the F3 is cheaper. And don't bother with SATA 6Gb/s, it's pointless for an HDD.
 
chaosblade said:
Missing a CPU and RAM, but that aside the build in the OP has much higher quality parts. Wouldn't recommend either Raidmax part (especially the PSU) or the Caviar Black since the F3 is cheaper. And don't bother with SATA 6Gb/s, it's pointless for an HDD.
Click to expand...

Alright thanks man. I think she may have forgot to link me the CPU or I forgot to click on the link when I was adding things to my cart. Either way, I'll probably just try and mix and match things from the OP.
 
·feist· said:
The $30 Xigmatek Asgard II Hazaro listed in the OP would be a better option.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...Order=BESTMATCH&Description=asgard+ii&x=0&y=0

Same price as that Rosewill, and the all black version has cheaper shipping. The same case is sold by at least 5-6 different companies (including Newegg), but Xigmatek rebrand of it is the least expensive.

Also take a look at the Diablotek Evo, NZXT Source 210, BitFenix Merc Aplha and Merc Beta. If you don't mind the extra $10, the Evo is a great case at that price. Solid build, good space, and it comes with four fans. There isn't a great deal of space behind the motherboard to route the thickest of cables, but that's one of its few negatives. BTW, if you don't like lights, you can either leave the LEDs for the front fan and I/O disconnected, or cut them.
Click to expand...


Appreciate it. The thing is, those are inching up (literally) in to being taller than I want. I understand it's a very narrow group: tall enough for an ATX board but not too tall. Like right now I have an unused HAF 922, that I can use if I want a big case. That's why I'm just trying to see what's cheap and small-ish.
 
jett said:
Yeah those are the reasons I've been considering the 560ti, and the jump to 570 is unfortunately too costly where I live.
Click to expand...

If you get a 560 ti with good enough cooler you can with ease OC it to pretty much the same performance as a stock 570.
 
After Hazaro's an n0n44m suggestions, build looks like this now:

Mobo: ASRock P67 Extreme4
Proc: Intel Core i5 2500K / 3.3 GHz
Cool: Scythe Mugen 3 Heat Pipe CPU Cooler
GPU: Sapphire RADEON HD 6950 Dirt3 Edition
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL
PSU: XFX Core Edition PRO550W
SSD: OCZ Agility 3 Series 120GB
Case: SilverStone LASCALA LC13
Burn: Samsung SH-222AB

comes to €900.

Still not sure if the cooler will fit in the case. Might go for a Scythe Big Shuriken as an alternative, but i'd have to see if the RAM fits under it. Most of the Silverstone chassis are 170mm high, will have to look at a different brand if i want something bigger at a comparable pricepoint. Went for the Sapphire GPU because apparently it makes only 2db more noise than the ASUS equivalent, which costs €30 more. I'm wondering if the PSU is powerful enough to deal with a GPU upgrade 2 or 3 years from now.

I'm in no rush to order - moving to a new house in a few weeks and getting this after. Will probably make some more changes before then.
 
squicken said:
Appreciate it. The thing is, those are inching up (literally) in to being taller than I want. I understand it's a very narrow group: tall enough for an ATX board but not too tall. Like right now I have an unused HAF 922, that I can use if I want a big case. That's why I'm just trying to see what's cheap and small-ish.
Click to expand...
The Asgard II is actually slightly shorter and slimmer than that Rosewill, and the Evo is less than an inch taller. Bear in mind, the Rosewill is $40 (price+ship), against the same $40 for the Evo that you can get without shipping charges. It's a considerably better case, with better cooling, at the same price. As for the Xigmatek, it costs less than the Rosewill, isn't as no-frills, and is essentially the same size. Inexpensive doesn't have to equal cheap.


JCtheMC said:
After Hazaro's an n0n44m suggestions, build looks like this now:

Mobo: ASRock P67 Extreme4
Proc: Intel Core i5 2500K / 3.3 GHz
Cool: Scythe Mugen 3 Heat Pipe CPU Cooler
GPU: Sapphire RADEON HD 6950 Dirt3 Edition
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL
PSU: XFX Core Edition PRO550W
SSD: OCZ Agility 3 Series 120GB
Case: SilverStone LASCALA LC13
Burn: Samsung SH-222AB

comes to €900.

Still not sure if the cooler will fit in the case. Might go for a Scythe Big Shuriken as an alternative, but i'd have to see if the RAM fits under it. Most of the Silverstone chassis are 170mm high, will have to look at a different brand if i want something bigger at a comparable pricepoint. Went for the Sapphire GPU because apparently it makes only 2db more noise than the ASUS equivalent, which costs €30 more. I'm wondering if the PSU is powerful enough to deal with a GPU upgrade 2 or 3 years from now.

I'm in no rush to order - moving to a new house in a few weeks and getting this after. Will probably make some more changes before then.
Click to expand...
Doubtful. This is where AIO water cooling is best suited, since you don't have space for high end air cooling. Antec Kühler H₂O 620, or Corsair H60.

For air, you have options like: Scythe Shuriken, Scythe Big Shuriken, Cooler Master GeminII S, Cooler Master GeminII S524, Scythe Kabuto, and Prolimatech Samuel 17, with Thermalright AXP-140, Noctua NH-C12, and Noctua NH-C14 on the upper end. You should also have just enough room to fit some of the tower style 92mm HSFs available.

Take a look at some LC13 reviews, for pictures from the build portion.
 
I picked up a GTX 480 from EVGA for $219.99. I can't wait to hear how annoyingly loud it is. Still, not a bad deal for what is still a rather potent card.
 
guys just be aware that even 64bit version of Windows 7 Home Premium is limited to 16Gb of ram. but yeah man, RAM is so cheap nowadays! :D
 
Do all of these P67 motherboards make a difference, some ASUS ones are as cheap as £90 but some are £150.
Is it just because of extras like more USB ports or is there a real difference?
 
·feist· said:
Doubtful. This is where AIO water cooling is best suited, since you don't have space for high end air cooling. Antec Kühler H₂O 620, or Corsair H60.

For air, you have options like: Scythe Shuriken, Scythe Big Shuriken, Cooler Master GeminII S, Cooler Master GeminII S524, Scythe Kabuto, and Prolimatech Samuel 17, with Thermalright AXP-140, Noctua NH-C12, and Noctua NH-C14 on the upper end. You should also have just enough room to fit some of the tower style 92mm HSFs available.

Take a look at some LC13 reviews, for pictures from the build portion.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the help and suggestions! I've just quickly read a H60 / 620 comparative review and it seems the 620 would be the better choice. It's only a few euro's more expensive than the Mugen 3, and according to these graphs it runs cooler and significantly quieter to boot: http://www.rwlabs.com/article.php?cat=&id=454&pagenumber=6

It's nice being surrounded by helpful people :-)

After reading http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/msi_r6950_twin_froz_iii_power_edition_unlocking,1.html I've also decided to switch to a MSI 6950 Twin Frozr Power Edition... 6970 performance for a whole lot less.
 
So, after going over the "damn capable" standard build with my dad, he seems pretty against the Samsung. I have no idea why other than he's had bad experience in terms of reliability. He also says that I should go with an i5 or i7 instead, but it seems like those might cost a bit more. I figure they'll be better in the long run though.

I don't really get the hardrive thing though. Any suggestions for a different one?
 
Quick question GAF...My PC is currently in my living room because thats where my modem/router is. Problem is...Im going to need to move it to my work station in another part of the house. So my question is this - Whats the best way to establish internet connection? Are wireless cards/adapters any better than what they used to be? How does it compare to wired? Would it be better to just crawl my ass under my house and drill a hole in my workstation room for the coaxial cable to run through? Is it possible to have two modems on one connection?
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
Quick question GAF...My PC is currently in my living room because thats where my modem/router is. Problem is...Im going to need to move it to my work station in another part of the house. So my question is this - Whats the best way to establish internet connection? Are wireless cards/adapters any better than what they used to be? How does it compare to wired? Would it be better to just crawl my ass under my house and drill a hole in my workstation room for the coaxial cable to run through? Is it possible to have two modems on one connection?
Click to expand...

If going wired go CAT5E or CAT6 UTP cable, preferably plenum rated to meet fire codes. If its long run or near power lines get STP (shielded cable). Wired is the best scenario for guaranteed consistent and fast connection. Wireless works well for thin walls or short distances but if your like me and have a wall made of solid wood/concrete, RF has trouble getting through. Lastly you can try powerline networking, which can be hit or miss depending on how many devices you have plugged on one electrical circuit.

To compare speeds(completely anecdotal):
Type.......................... Max......... Typical
Wired.........................1Gbps..... ~800Mbps
Wireless-G..................54Mbps... ~8-10Mbps
Wireless-N(450 3x3:3) 450Mbps.. ~50-150Mbps
Powerline................... 500Mbps.. ~5-300Mbps
 
PigSpeakers said:
So, after going over the "damn capable" standard build with my dad, he seems pretty against the Samsung. I have no idea why other than he's had bad experience in terms of reliability. He also says that I should go with an i5 or i7 instead, but it seems like those might cost a bit more. I figure they'll be better in the long run though.

I don't really get the hardrive thing though. Any suggestions for a different one?
Click to expand...

Samsung's reliability is likely the same as WD or Seagate's. If he wants to switch out the Samsung for a WD model, it's not going to be detrimental to performance or anything (as long as it's the same write speed). Just make sure whichever one you buy is well reviewed on newegg.

As for your second question, the more you pay, the better parts you are going to get. i7 is overkill, but if you can afford it, I don't see a reason not to go for a 2500k (i5).

My advice is usually to pick a budget and stick with it. There is always something better and more expensive.


iSurvivedTheOutage said:
Quick question GAF...My PC is currently in my living room because thats where my modem/router is. Problem is...Im going to need to move it to my work station in another part of the house. So my question is this - Whats the best way to establish internet connection? Are wireless cards/adapters any better than what they used to be? How does it compare to wired? Would it be better to just crawl my ass under my house and drill a hole in my workstation room for the coaxial cable to run through? Is it possible to have two modems on one connection?
Click to expand...

Two modems? From your ISP? If you've currently got two cable modems running on one connection (and the cable company has approved of this) I see no reason not to stick with it. If not, no, I wouldn't think so, and I'm not sure why you'd want to pay dual modem rental fees.

For gaming, I suggest a wired connection. I know very little about running coax, but I've successfully run about 200ft of CAT5E in the past without issue. Make sure the cable you buy is rated for in-wall installation (or under wall in this case...which seems like another potential code issue...) for insurance, safety, and building code purposes. You're ahead of the game in that you've got access to that room under the floor (I ran it through a wall, which was a bitch).
 
·feist· said:
Doubtful. This is where AIO water cooling is best suited, since you don't have space for high end air cooling. Antec Kühler H₂O 620, or Corsair H60.

For air, you have options like: Scythe Shuriken, Scythe Big Shuriken, Cooler Master GeminII S, Cooler Master GeminII S524, Scythe Kabuto, and Prolimatech Samuel 17, with Thermalright AXP-140, Noctua NH-C12, and Noctua NH-C14 on the upper end. You should also have just enough room to fit some of the tower style 92mm HSFs available.

Take a look at some LC13 reviews, for pictures from the build portion.
Click to expand...

JCtheMC said:
Thanks for all the help and suggestions! I've just quickly read a H60 / 620 comparative review and it seems the 620 would be the better choice. It's only a few euro's more expensive than the Mugen 3, and according to these graphs it runs cooler and significantly quieter to boot: http://www.rwlabs.com/article.php?cat=&id=454&pagenumber=6
Click to expand...

eeeeh hold on

I was gonna suggest something like that as well, then I remembered my LC17 (which is an LC13 with different frontplate) has only 2*80mm at the back and optional 2*92 at the front (1*92 for the LC13) ... you'll need a 120mm hole for the 620 right? There is mesh around the side near the CPU area, but looking at the LC13 specs there are no 120mm mounts, so unless you want to do some modding I doubt you'll be able to mount an AIO watercool kit (fake edit: looked at some youtube vid and the holes at the mesh are indeed 80mm spaced)

I'd get one of the air coolers ·feist· mentions (and indeed a 92mm tower heatsink should fit) or look for another case. Again, I like the LC13/17 case but it does not seem orientated at the gaming htpc market in terms of airflow...

edit:

found a nice link here. he links to some other guides/posts as well , lots of other builds using the Silverstone LC cases ... common ingredients seem to be the smaller Noctua tower hsf models, replacing the stock 80mm fans by quieter models (did that as well myself) and adding front fan(s). They've got some nice tricks for cable management as well, now I'm tempted to stuff my GTX480 in my HTPC when I buy a new card next year :D
 
LordCanti said:
Samsung's reliability is likely the same as WD or Seagate's. If he wants to switch out the Samsung for a WD model, it's not going to be detrimental to performance or anything (as long as it's the same write speed). Just make sure whichever one you buy is well reviewed on newegg.

As for your second question, the more you pay, the better parts you are going to get. i7 is overkill, but if you can afford it, I don't see a reason not to go for a 2500k (i5).

My advice is usually to pick a budget and stick with it. There is always something better and more expensive.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I found a Seagate that seems to be pretty well reviewed and has a $10 off code today.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148697

I figure that's around the same as the other one, but I'm not for sure. If it is, it leaves me a little more money for the i5.
 
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