"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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HP_Wuvcraft
Banned
ShadyLurker said:
Amazon has a 60GB for $44.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058RECO0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
HP_Wuvcraft
Banned
Still. Pretty cheap.
Most of the newer sandforce drives have problems. Despite the large amount of poor reviews, the failure rate is still a pretty low percent. I'd be willing to guess that it's comparable to the HDD failure rates.
Having said that, it's higher than it should be for a device that has no moving parts.
Having said that, it's higher than it should be for a device that has no moving parts.
HP_Wuvcraft
Banned
vazel said:
That model seems to be either pass or fail. No real middle ground. It either works for people or it doesn't.
whatsinaname
Member
Does anyone here know how to install EFI/UEFI bios on older motherboards? Will it make a difference to my boot times?
I am on a Gigabyte EP45 UD3P. Unless I've understood things incorrectly, I gather people have used this board for a Hackintosh and flashed it with an EFI bios?
I am on a Gigabyte EP45 UD3P. Unless I've understood things incorrectly, I gather people have used this board for a Hackintosh and flashed it with an EFI bios?
whatsinaname said:
http://lifehacker.com/5351485/how-to-build-a-hackintosh-with-snow-leopard-start-to-finish
It's EFI in this case, not UEFI. You won't be changing your bios, just the bootloader (and some settings in the bios). Unless I'm misunderstanding what the guy is doing in the linked article.
whatsinaname
Member
LordCanti said:
Thing is, I am not trying to install Snow Leopard. It's just that the Power button -> windows-starting-to-load time is pretty long on my machine and the newer videos I've seen of machines booting seem to not have that. Is that because of EFI (which I gathered replaced the BIOS)?
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
BIG thanks to those of you who helped me out last night with my decision.
I ended up realizing a few things. 1) The deal on the 570 was just too good to pass up, 2) That SLI is currently out of the question with my current mobo 3) I'll likely do a completely new build in about a year or so.
So, I decided on keeping it as cheap as possible since I'll likely be changing things on a much larger scale in 12 months. I went with the Zotac "AMP!" factory OC'd 570 to replace my AMD 5870.
Heck of a deal: $379 MSRP; on sale for $309. 20% off coupon = $269 AFTER tax. Plus a $30 rebate PLUS Batman Arkham City + Assassin's Creed Brotherhood. I plan to sell the Batman AC key for $35 (which, if you want that, shoot me a PM), which means at the end of the day I got this card for about $205 and got a free copy of Ass.Creed.Bro. I should be able to sell my 5870 for that.
Anyway, finally got rid of the AMD stuff, got it installed, updated, and played. I loaded up BFBC2 for a while. Like I said, on my old card, I'd hover in the 50s, with a few dips to the 40s, and a rare dip to the high 30s. With the 570, I doubled the AA (16 -> 32), and hovered in the 70s, with the rare dip to the 50s! Incredible. Awesome, awesome performance at 1080p.
HOWEVER:
I was playing some BFBC2 when my game started stuttering all over the place. Was un playable almost. I checked temps, and they were at 100D Celsius :doh: ! I immediately shut down my computer and inspect if there is a problem in my case. I quickly come to realize I'm an idiot; the cooler fan is in a completely different location that on my 5870, and so it was smashed up against my sound card. :doh: :doh: So, for the time being, I've just removed my sound card, and went back to playing. No more stuttering! Yay!!
That said, my card still seems to idle at like 50-53c, and when gaming, it hits nearly 100% load constantly as I never use V-sync, and temps get into the high 90s. :shock: Now, I'm not saying my cooling in my case is great by any means, but I know my 5870 stayed much lower than that. So, should I assume this might be a tad deffective? Card seems to run fine, and the fan cranks up to full load (85) when I'm playing... but that just seems ridiculously high even for a "factory OC'd" (lulz) card. Should I drive the 1h30m to switch it out with another? I'm leaning toward yes.
I ended up realizing a few things. 1) The deal on the 570 was just too good to pass up, 2) That SLI is currently out of the question with my current mobo 3) I'll likely do a completely new build in about a year or so.
So, I decided on keeping it as cheap as possible since I'll likely be changing things on a much larger scale in 12 months. I went with the Zotac "AMP!" factory OC'd 570 to replace my AMD 5870.
Heck of a deal: $379 MSRP; on sale for $309. 20% off coupon = $269 AFTER tax. Plus a $30 rebate PLUS Batman Arkham City + Assassin's Creed Brotherhood. I plan to sell the Batman AC key for $35 (which, if you want that, shoot me a PM), which means at the end of the day I got this card for about $205 and got a free copy of Ass.Creed.Bro. I should be able to sell my 5870 for that.
Anyway, finally got rid of the AMD stuff, got it installed, updated, and played. I loaded up BFBC2 for a while. Like I said, on my old card, I'd hover in the 50s, with a few dips to the 40s, and a rare dip to the high 30s. With the 570, I doubled the AA (16 -> 32), and hovered in the 70s, with the rare dip to the 50s! Incredible. Awesome, awesome performance at 1080p.
HOWEVER:
I was playing some BFBC2 when my game started stuttering all over the place. Was un playable almost. I checked temps, and they were at 100D Celsius :doh: ! I immediately shut down my computer and inspect if there is a problem in my case. I quickly come to realize I'm an idiot; the cooler fan is in a completely different location that on my 5870, and so it was smashed up against my sound card. :doh: :doh: So, for the time being, I've just removed my sound card, and went back to playing. No more stuttering! Yay!!
That said, my card still seems to idle at like 50-53c, and when gaming, it hits nearly 100% load constantly as I never use V-sync, and temps get into the high 90s. :shock: Now, I'm not saying my cooling in my case is great by any means, but I know my 5870 stayed much lower than that. So, should I assume this might be a tad deffective? Card seems to run fine, and the fan cranks up to full load (85) when I'm playing... but that just seems ridiculously high even for a "factory OC'd" (lulz) card. Should I drive the 1h30m to switch it out with another? I'm leaning toward yes.
Tonner Cyn
Member
I decided to mess around with overclocking my cpu. I'm running an i5-2500k, 8 gigs of RAM, and a GTX 570. My case is a CoolerMaster 690 II Advanced with the stock fans and an H60 on the cpu. After changing the multiplier to 40, my core temps have been running in the high 60's to mid 70's with Prime95 running. I ran Prime95 when I first got my system a week ago or so with no overclocking and had temps about 10 degrees cooler. I hadn't disabled sleep mode though so it is possible that Prime95 wasn't actually running and my temps were lower for a good reason. Anyway, are the temps I am getting now anything to be worried about?
VibratingDonkey
Member
At first I thought it was the power switch cable not grabbing onto the motherboard pin properly, but I've found that my PC won't boot unless I first switch off the PSU until about when the LED's on the motherboard have faded out.
Is there any possibility at all that the motherboard is not the problem here? And what specifically could the problem be?
It'll suck so bad if I have to RMA the motherboard...
Is there any possibility at all that the motherboard is not the problem here? And what specifically could the problem be?
It'll suck so bad if I have to RMA the motherboard...
Angelus Errare
Banned
Skel1ingt0n said:BIG thanks to those of you who helped me out last night with my decision.
I ended up realizing a few things. 1) The deal on the 570 was just too good to pass up, 2) That SLI is currently out of the question with my current mobo 3) I'll likely do a completely new build in about a year or so.
So, I decided on keeping it as cheap as possible since I'll likely be changing things on a much larger scale in 12 months. I went with the Zotac "AMP!" factory OC'd 570 to replace my AMD 5870.
Heck of a deal: $379 MSRP; on sale for $309. 20% off coupon = $269 AFTER tax. Plus a $30 rebate PLUS Batman Arkham City + Assassin's Creed Brotherhood. I plan to sell the Batman AC key for $35 (which, if you want that, shoot me a PM), which means at the end of the day I got this card for about $205 and got a free copy of Ass.Creed.Bro. I should be able to sell my 5870 for that.
Anyway, finally got rid of the AMD stuff, got it installed, updated, and played. I loaded up BFBC2 for a while. Like I said, on my old card, I'd hover in the 50s, with a few dips to the 40s, and a rare dip to the high 30s. With the 570, I doubled the AA (16 -> 32), and hovered in the 70s, with the rare dip to the 50s! Incredible. Awesome, awesome performance at 1080p.
HOWEVER:
I was playing some BFBC2 when my game started stuttering all over the place. Was un playable almost. I checked temps, and they were at 100D Celsius :doh: ! I immediately shut down my computer and inspect if there is a problem in my case. I quickly come to realize I'm an idiot; the cooler fan is in a completely different location that on my 5870, and so it was smashed up against my sound card. :doh: :doh: So, for the time being, I've just removed my sound card, and went back to playing. No more stuttering! Yay!!
That said, my card still seems to idle at like 50-53c, and when gaming, it hits nearly 100% load constantly as I never use V-sync, and temps get into the high 90s. :shock: Now, I'm not saying my cooling in my case is great by any means, but I know my 5870 stayed much lower than that. So, should I assume this might be a tad deffective? Card seems to run fine, and the fan cranks up to full load (85) when I'm playing... but that just seems ridiculously high even for a "factory OC'd" (lulz) card. Should I drive the 1h30m to switch it out with another? I'm leaning toward yes.
I was expecting a free copy of Deus Ex: HR given the color scheme of that GPU.
5.1 question:
I have a Gigabyte P55 UD3 motherboard and want my pc to work with my Logitech Z-5500, which has "6 Inch direct", a coaxial and an optical slot in its mini reciever/controller thingie.
Mobo description says
Audio
Realtek ALC888 codec
High Definition Audio
2/4/5.1/7.1-channel
Support for S/PDIF In/Out
Support for CD In
Do I need a soundcard? Something else? I have no idea.
Right now my pc is connected to my tv via HDMI and uses the tv speakers.
I have a Gigabyte P55 UD3 motherboard and want my pc to work with my Logitech Z-5500, which has "6 Inch direct", a coaxial and an optical slot in its mini reciever/controller thingie.
Mobo description says
Audio
Realtek ALC888 codec
High Definition Audio
2/4/5.1/7.1-channel
Support for S/PDIF In/Out
Support for CD In
Do I need a soundcard? Something else? I have no idea.
Right now my pc is connected to my tv via HDMI and uses the tv speakers.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Firestorm said:
It is. It still requires GFW like every copy will, but it's a legit "Steam version" code that I get.
You can run optical, coax, or the orange/green/black (analog) I think.Binabik15 said:
Optical gets you the best sound, but I don't know if it supports surround in games and stuff?
You don't need a soundcard, but if you get noise it would help. Xonar DG is great.
I'm not a big audio person so I can't really help, go ask the headphone thread in OT.
http://logitech-en-amr.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2927
Binabik15 said:
you can connect with the 3 analogue cables, that'll give you 5.1. 5500 isn't a high end set but quality will probably improve still improve somewhat with a dedicated soundcard.
when you connect via optical you'll only get 5.1 from movie tracks, games will be limited to 2.0 . Get a soundcard with Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect for 5.1 from games through optical.
Skel1ingt0n said:
V-Sync off will do that with stock cooling yeah ... check some reviews to see if they get lower temps under full load. If that is the case, check whether better airflow in your case changes anything. Take off the side panel, check out what happens with a table fan next to it and so on. If the card gets same temps as review without sidepanel etc, your case cooling isn't enough (reviews often test without cases though). If the card still is significantly hotter, the cooler might not be attached very well (not likely though).
Woody Invincible
Banned
Fuck it, just ordered the 64GB crucial m4.
lowrider007
Licorice-flavoured booze?
I had a bit of a scary moment when I built my system, as can see the fan shroud on the cpu cooler overhangs the first memory slot and is only within 1mm of the second one, at least my memory will stay cool now I suppose.
And yes I know it looks like spaghetti junction in there but the Antec P180 really isn't a good case for cable management :-(
And yes I know it looks like spaghetti junction in there but the Antec P180 really isn't a good case for cable management :-(
Hero_of_the_Day
Member
Random question. I'm going to have some sli going on. So I made sure to get a case that has a fan by the cards. Should I make it blow in or out of the case? PSU is in the bottom fyi. Going to have air coming in the front bottom, and out the top left (one going straight up and out, and one blowing out the back where a PSU would go). Thanks for the tips.
lowrider007
Licorice-flavoured booze?
Hero_of_the_Day_1985 said:
Blowing in will give you better temps, it's what I've always done, the way I see it is that the cool air comes in at the bottom front and side of the case and is flows over the mobo board and is then expelled at the rear/top.
Hero_of_the_Day_1985 said:
in most cases blowing in. Stock cooling often takes air from the case and exhaust all most all of it out the back, so you want cool air coming in to give the cards some cool air to breathe.
However, if you have a cooler that blows hot air into the case (Arctic Cooling Accelero, Twin Frozr, dCII and some more) you *could* experiment with making it an extra outtake, assuming you still have enough cool air coming from the front. I did that with my single Accelero cooled card and it worked great (keeping hot air away from CPU, felt noticeably hot air coming out when holding my hand in front of it), but the fan has to be positioned absolutely right so your mileage may vary... and even with these type of coolers, air blowing in should always help reduce GPU temperatures
sn1pes said:
more airflow. MOAR!
What case? What kind of coolers do the cards have? What is the distance between them?
again, open sidepanel + optional table fan will show if and by how much more air will improve the temperatures
also be creative, try to tie-wrap a fan so that it will blow between the cards for instanceI'm running in a Corsair 600t case. Cards are not too far apart. SLI connector not completely stretched out. I think you're right. Needs moar air. I'll play with it today.n0n44m said:more airflow. MOAR!
What case? What kind of coolers do the cards have? What is the distance between them?
again, open sidepanel + optional table fan will show if and by how much more air will improve the temperatures
sn1pes said:
Interesting. I too have a Corsair 600T case, and in fact I'm even running 560 Tis in sli just like yourself.
For what it's worth here are some rough temps from me :
Stock : idle 30;32. Load 63;67
OC@980mhz 1.1v : idle 32;35. Load 71;77
Which brand of card do you have?
iNvid02
Member
i just finished upgrading to a better SSD and it was pretty simple.
the new m4 drive came with a data transfer kit, just plugged it in via USB
and used the software to clone my current drive, took 40 minutes.
swapped the drives and then updated the firmware and its done.
just awaiting the new 580s and 16gb ram and its ready for destruction
the new m4 drive came with a data transfer kit, just plugged it in via USB
and used the software to clone my current drive, took 40 minutes.
swapped the drives and then updated the firmware and its done.
just awaiting the new 580s and 16gb ram and its ready for destruction
Woody Invincible
Banned
iNvidious01 said:
Excellent. Hearing this is great news. I was really wondering how simple the transfer would be.
whatsinaname
Member
LordCanti said:
I do have an SSD, but the initial POST and BIOS load is supposedly quicker with UEFI. Was just a long shot, it is a pretty old motherboard.
Thanks for you help.
Corky said:
Awesome to see someone has the same build.
I'm running EVGA Superclocked 560ti's @ 900mhz.
What tool should I use to monitor the temps? Speedfan is only showing one GPU temp.
Also, I removed the glass side panel and replaced it with the mesh as well as moved the HDD bay down so the front intake directly hits the cards now.
sn1pes said:
I'm a sucker for nvidia inspector, let's me monitor temps, gpu, fan, vram usage, voltage, shader clocks you name it. Let's me overclock and save profiles and last but definitely not least it lets me tinker with the driversettings ( forcing AA and so on ).
Advance_Alarm
Member
ive got a Radeon 6850 and a 520w seasonic power supply, i was thinking of upgrading to a gtx 570 for BF3 or doing Crossfire w/ another 6850. The build list on the OP says a 550w power supply is what you need for a gtx 570 so I am wondering if I can still use my old power supply for that.
Hi all, I see Newegg has a nice deal on a Radeon 6850 Black Edition. I currently have a Radeon 5700 and a 2.8 GHz AMD Phenom II X3 for my mobo. Would it be worthwhile to upgrade to the new video card with my mobo or would I not see a huge upgrade? My PSU is 500 watts -- also, I recently upped from 4 to 8 GB of RAM.
Thanks for any recommendations.
Thanks for any recommendations.
Crazymoogle
Member
Let me preface this, PC-GAF. You need an SSD. Really. The difference in daily use for your PC is amazing.
That being said...just had my Vertex 1 fail, one month after my laptop's OCZ Agility 1 failed. Looks like the same problem on both - firmware dies and BIOS can't see anything anymore. I guess it's never too early for some vodka...
That being said...just had my Vertex 1 fail, one month after my laptop's OCZ Agility 1 failed. Looks like the same problem on both - firmware dies and BIOS can't see anything anymore. I guess it's never too early for some vodka...
Ooccoo
Member
Oh my, I chose a new GPU since newegg didn't have the toxic but now they are out of stock for the memory I chose. It's like I'm cursed or something. So I took the occasion to change a few things. Here's my updated build. I'm wondering if I should go for an i-7 or keep the i-5 intel. Also is there a way to get a cheaper os? Seems costly IMO. If you have a suggestion to replace the memory that'd be great.
foodtaster
Banned
I have $800, what should I get? (Note, I don't have a monitor either). I probably will play mainly games from 2010 and back. I've been out of the gaming scene for a while.
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