"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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I'm just getting around to messing with my overclock again. I'm still trying to get the multiplier at 40 and have changed the voltage to 1.320v (I started at 1.200 but everything until 1.32 gave me error messages). Core temps are still in the mid-60's. Is this high? Should I just go back to the stack settings?

EDIT: I'm this close to giving up. I did a little more messing around (enabled PLL overvoltage for instance) but the temps really didn't change. Adding to my frustration is that all the videos I find on youtube - which look like they would be very helpful - are for a different brand motherboard than my Gigabyte. I'm considering adding another fan but I may just use it as it came as that is still way better than what I was using before.
 
Gaf, I have a 1GB HD 6950, but when I used canyourunit.com it says I only have 753MB of video ram. Has some kind of setting been adjusted?
 
Le-mo said:
Gaf, I have a 1GB HD 6950, but when I used canyourunit.com it says I only have 753MB of video ram. Has some kind of setting been adjusted?
That website/java app isn't entirely accurate. The site says my videocard (1GB) has 2.2GB.
 
So i keep getting pm'd saying don't buy pre-built! blar blar! buy custom, so if i were to drop $2000 on a PC (everything including monitor) what would i go about getting? i would prefer to get all from one site and a decent size monitor (widescreen obviously) i can hold off on the monitor and use my TV it's not a huge deal. The problem is i don't know much about pcs.. i know what a core i7 is and the basic stuff but the last time i got into computers was when a radeon 9800 and amd 2600 were top dog.

I mostly just play Starcraft 2 but i want to be able to run Guild Wars 2, Diablo 3 and Battlefield 3 on high settings flawlessly if possible for around $2000 (or cheaper if possible!) and maybe Skyrim. If i can get it around $1500 that would be even better (just the pc) then i can spring for a really nice monitor and headset maybe.
 
Bazhard said:
So i keep getting pm'd saying don't buy pre-built! blar blar! buy custom, so if i were to drop $2000 on a PC (everything including monitor) what would i go about getting? i would prefer to get all from one site and a decent size monitor (widescreen obviously) i can hold off on the monitor and use my TV it's not a huge deal. The problem is i don't know much about pcs.. i know what a core i7 is and the basic stuff but the last time i got into computers was when a radeon 9800 and amd 2600 were top dog.

I mostly just play Starcraft 2 but i want to be able to run Guild Wars 2, Diablo 3 and Battlefield 3 on high settings flawlessly if possible for around $2000 (or cheaper if possible!) and maybe Skyrim. If i can get it around $1500 that would be even better (just the pc) then i can spring for a really nice monitor and headset maybe.

If you must buy custom and really don't want to bother building it yourself, as a general tip, I would say to spend whatever you can on all the parts but the video card. You will want to buy that separately because they will definitely overcharge you on that.
 
Tonner Cyn said:
I'm just getting around to messing with my overclock again. I'm still trying to get the multiplier at 40 and have changed the voltage to 1.320v (I started at 1.200 but everything until 1.32 gave me error messages). Core temps are still in the mid-60's. Is this high? Should I just go back to the stack settings?

EDIT: I'm this close to giving up. I did a little more messing around (enabled PLL overvoltage for instance) but the temps really didn't change. Adding to my frustration is that all the videos I find on youtube - which look like they would be very helpful - are for a different brand motherboard than my Gigabyte. I'm considering adding another fan but I may just use it as it came as that is still way better than what I was using before.
You running a 2500k? If so,

Yea those temps are high. I'm currently running my 2500k @ 4.2 with only changing the multiplier. I'm running a Corsair H60 cooler that keeps idle temps 25-35 and under load no higher than 50.
 
CPU:Intel Core i7 unlocekd 3.4ghz
Motherboard:Asus P67 Sabretooth-> is this a good board vs a z68 I don't plan to have an ssd right now
Cooler:Corsair A50 Air Series performance cpu cooler ->they say its huge!! how huge? is it gonna be a problem with the memory or anything else?
Memory:13-5702 ::Corsair Vengeance 8GB PC12800 DDR3 RAM - 1600MHz-> I had the 16gb vengeance before, are there any real use to have this much ram I could aford it

I already have a GTX 560ti. Is a 550W PSU enough for all this or should I upgrade it?

I'm planning on ordering tomorrow.
 
sn1pes said:
You running a 2500k? If so,

Yea those temps are high. I'm currently running my 2500k @ 4.2 with only changing the multiplier. I'm running a Corsair H60 cooler that keeps idle temps 25-35 and under load no higher than 50.

It is a 2500k with the H60 cooler as well. My case has plenty of airflow in it. I think I am going to contact the vendor. Maybe they did not apply the thermal paste properly.
 
Maaseru said:
CPU:Intel Core i7 unlocekd 3.4ghz
Motherboard:Asus P67 Sabretooth-> is this a good board vs a z68 I don't plan to have an ssd right now
Cooler:Corsair A50 Air Series performance cpu cooler ->they say its huge!! how huge? is it gonna be a problem with the memory or anything else?
Memory:13-5702 ::Corsair Vengeance 8GB PC12800 DDR3 RAM - 1600MHz-> I had the 16gb vengeance before, are there any real use to have this much ram I could aford it

I already have a GTX 560ti. Is a 550W PSU enough for all this or should I upgrade it?

I'm planning on ordering tomorrow.
550W is fine as long as it's 550W from a decent manufacturer like Corsair.
 
OK, I have sent off an email asking if the vendor can help me with my temps. Just in case, and I know this was asked a few pages ago, if I have to re-apply the thermal paste myself what is the best product to go with? Thanks!
 
Bazhard said:
So i keep getting pm'd saying don't buy pre-built! blar blar! buy custom, so if i were to drop $2000 on a PC (everything including monitor) what would i go about getting? i would prefer to get all from one site and a decent size monitor (widescreen obviously) i can hold off on the monitor and use my TV it's not a huge deal. The problem is i don't know much about pcs.. i know what a core i7 is and the basic stuff but the last time i got into computers was when a radeon 9800 and amd 2600 were top dog.

I mostly just play Starcraft 2 but i want to be able to run Guild Wars 2, Diablo 3 and Battlefield 3 on high settings flawlessly if possible for around $2000 (or cheaper if possible!) and maybe Skyrim. If i can get it around $1500 that would be even better (just the pc) then i can spring for a really nice monitor and headset maybe.
Look at the Enthusiast build in the OP.
If you don't do video editing / VMWare you can get a 2500K, and a $160/$190 motherboard has everything you need (CPU and mobo from Excellent build). Should total $1500 and blow away everything.
Tonner Cyn said:
OK, I have sent off an email asking if the vendor can help me with my temps. Just in case, and I know this was asked a few pages ago, if I have to re-apply the thermal paste myself what is the best product to go with? Thanks!
Anything recent is good. I like ICD7, and have heard many good recommendation of MX-4.
 
Here is the build im thinking about doing, i have (case, drives, etc) im reusing thats why a few things are missing, but in terms of overall build any issues?

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=17188032

going with a single card solution, but I wanted a solid mobo, and a solid psu so in the future I may update the 570 (i usually do 1 card refresh a build before I deem the whole thing is outdated).

a little more than i'd like to spend on the mobo since im not sli'ing but Ive been out of the loop on manufacturers and don't recognize ASRock, and MSI was kind of crap back when I built my current pc years ago..

also in new dual channel mother boards, there's no issue filling 4 slots with dual channel ram (assuming its all the same ram)? I remember back in the day if you filled all 4 slots it slowed down the ram a bit for compatibility or something, but that was like 2006 so maybe times changed?
 
Duxxy3 said:
So spend a few hundred on a piece of equipment that doesn't improve my gaming experience by any meaningful amount, definitely not a few hundred dollars difference.

I'm sure it's nice when opening chrome but it's not like it takes a long time for that to open.

Like i said - for me it's not worth the price and risk.

For people that want the absolute fastest no matter what, SSD's are great for them.

The only current gen drive that actually causes data loss was the Intel 320. Other drives freeze and BSOD, but they don't have data loss at any level higher than HDDs.

As far as value, that's up to you to decide. I personally can't go back to HDD as a system drive.

--

There seems to be a widespread rumor that Intel's Cherryville SSD will be SF driven. That would be crazy if true.

Tonner Cyn said:
OK, I have sent off an email asking if the vendor can help me with my temps. Just in case, and I know this was asked a few pages ago, if I have to re-apply the thermal paste myself what is the best product to go with? Thanks!

At 1.32 Core Voltage, it is going to be hot. It's odd that you can't hit 4.0 with minimal effort. You shouldn't need that much voltage
 
ZombieSupaStar said:
Here is the build im thinking about doing, i have (case, drives, etc) im reusing thats why a few things are missing, but in terms of overall build any issues?

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=17188032


going with a single card solution, but I wanted a solid mobo, and a solid psu so in the future I may update the 570 (i usually do 1 card refresh a build before I deem the whole thing is outdated).

a little more than i'd like to spend on the mobo since im not sli'ing but Ive been out of the loop on manufacturers and don't recognize ASRock, and MSI was kind of crap back when I built my current pc years ago..

also in new dual channel mother boards, there's no issue filling 4 slots with dual channel ram (assuming its all the same ram)? I remember back in the day if you filled all 4 slots it slowed down the ram a bit for compatibility or something, but that was like 2006 so maybe times changed?
MSI have really stepped up. ASRock as well this go around.
No problems with all 4 slots. Except heatsinks on the CPU today can block the first slot or two. Just raise the fan on the 212 and you should be fine.
squicken said:
The only current gen drive that actually causes data loss was the Intel 320. Other drives freeze and BSOD, but they don't have data loss at any level higher than HDDs.
And note that the 8MB bug was very very very small percentage.
 
Is there any issue running two PWM fans (0.36A max each) off an Asus P8P67Pro mobo CPU fan header, which is rated at 1A?

Want to get a Hyper 212+ with Push/Pull config and wondering if I need to power fans off the PSU instead of the mobo.
 
blackprophesy said:
Is there any issue running two PWM fans (0.36A max each) off an Asus P8P67Pro mobo CPU fan header, which is rated at 1A?

Want to get a Hyper 212+ with Push/Pull config and wondering if I need to power fans off the PSU instead of the mobo.

.36 + .36 = .72 < 1 so no works fine ...

you do need a PWM extension cable though, as PWM uses an extra wire compared to normal fans
 
Gonna pick up the Asus P8Z68-V and some ram today or tomorrow and hopefully put everything together before the BF3 open beta rolls in. Any last opinions? Hope I can find some MX-4 paste in stores around here.
 
Hazaro said:
Clear the CMOS and plug/replug all your power connections.
If it keep happening it could be a mobo issue.
Thanks a lot for that tip.

When checking how to clear the CMOS I couldn't find the jumper as I had removed the cap thinking those pins were for the CHA FAN 2 which was printed next to them on the mobo. Having little understanding of how CMOS works when putting everything together completed the confusion. Luckily I found the cap.

Hopefully this will have solved the problem. Guess I'll find out when I start the thing up next time.

Put in a new DVD drive while I was poking around. Old one made noises like a sawmill and did nothing in AHCI mode.
...oh wait, Steam says "Installing: More than one year remaining" when attempting to install Red Orchestra 2.
:(

Since RO2 is Steamworks I can just download it instead. But this is ungood.
Can you set the SATA mode separately per port in the Asus P8P67 Pro BIOS somehow?
 
So am I just blind or have nvidia yet to implement the framelimiter feature in the latest drivers?
 
My knowledge of crossfiring is limited and I want to know if it's possible to overclock crossfired cards individually. If I were to purchase a 6970 to crossfire with my unlocked 6950, would they be recognized as same cards?
 
woober said:
My knowledge of crossfiring is limited and I want to know if it's possible to overclock crossfired cards individually. If I were to purchase a 6970 to crossfire with my unlocked 6950, would they be recognized as same cards?

Won't work.
 
don't all AMD 69** crossfire with each other?

I know the lowest clocked card will determine the clockspeed of the other(s)

fake edit:

AMD_CrossfireX_Chart_1618W.jpg
 
TheExodu5 said:
You can overclock separate cards individually (at least with SLI), but 6970/6950 are two different cards, so that wouldn't work.

Is that what you do?

I have it setup for my cards to share the same clock speed, voltage etc.
 
Tonner Cyn said:
Are these good thermal compounds?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WU2LXC/?tag=neogaf0e-20

When removing thermal paste from the cpu, is it recommended to remove it from the motherboard?

Arctic MX-2 is a good choice, but there's also MX-4 ...

no need to remove the cpu from the motherboard

Flame Lord said:
I was thinking about getting liquid cooling for my new computer. Is that anymore difficult to install than a heatsink?

all-on-1 like the Corsair H70 / H100 ? seems easier to install than most air heatsinks IMHO (no experience with them though)
 
TheExodu5 said:
You can overclock separate cards individually (at least with SLI), but 6970/6950 are two different cards, so that wouldn't work.


Say whaaat, I was under the impression that having different OCs the cards will both run at what the lower clocked one runs at.
 
Corky said:
Say whaaat, I was under the impression that having different OCs the cards will both run at what the lower clocked one runs at.
I know! Pretty cool. Makes me want to buy another GPU now lol

But I will wait and jump into the round of cards next year if they show significant gains.
 
LiquidMetal14 said:
I know! Pretty cool. Makes me want to buy another GPU now lol

But I will wait and jump into the round of cards next year if they show significant gains.

Well I think both my cards are equal in the clocking department, doing 980mhz without maxing the voltage and still keeping acceptable temps, I don't think it would be much of a benefit running one at 980 and the other at 1000ish or w/e the stronger cards inherent cap is.
 
Can anyone recommend me a cheap decent i5 2600k air cooler please, my chip @ 4.5Ghz 1.350v is hitting 90c atm in Prime95 blend with an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro :-(
 
lowrider007 said:
Can anyone recommend me a cheap decent i5 2600k air cooler please, my chip @4.5Ghz 1.350v is hitting 90c atm in Prime95 blend with an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro :-(

Coolermaster Hyper 212+ $30 or so at Amazon/Newegg/etc. An improperly installed heatsink is a more likely culprit for those temperatures than a bad one though. Even the stock heatsink should be able to do better.
 
Flame Lord said:
I was thinking about getting liquid cooling for my new computer. Is that anymore difficult to install than a heatsink?
To be honest I think those all-in-one corsair liquid coolers are no better than a decent air cooler.
If you want to go down the route of a separate pump, reservoir, tubing and liquid then do your research. It's not hard but one mistake can cost you a lot of hardware.Nowadays a good air cooler is good enough if you only want a mild overclock, remember the new sandybridge run cooler than the older 1156 chips.
 
LordCanti said:
Coolermaster Hyper 212+ $30 or so at Amazon/Newegg/etc. An improperly installed heatsink is a more likely culprit for those temperatures than a bad one though. Even the stock heatsink should be able to do better.

I agree with this, fwiw.
 
my keyboard died today (ms split one) and am thinking of upgrading to a Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Keyboard... anyone own one ?
 
amrod said:
my keyboard died today (ms split one) and am thinking of upgrading to a Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Keyboard... anyone own one ?
I own one, it's a great keyboard but definitely over-priced.
If you get it for a good price then buy.
The mechanical keyboard is quite loud and the lowest LED brightness setting is still to bright.
 
question: I've seen alot of pics where gamers will leave one side of the case open(whole panel removed so it can get more air, like if you was changing you graphics card, you just never put it back on) but doesn't this lead to more dust? is this a smart thing to do?

I've overclocked my already factory OC 460 by about 10% using guilds from the internet. with no extra cooling. I kinda worried about heat even through the heat never really goes above 70 playing witcher 2. would this help? cpu is stock phenon x6 at 2.7 no overclocking.
 
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