"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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PC-GAF, need some help to overclock my i5-2500k for the first time ever, I have it paired with a GA-Z68A-D3-B3 Gigabyte MB.

I went to the BIOS and changed the multiplier from default value of x33 to x45, booted W7 and it showed me my new speed of 4.5 Ghz, ran prime95 for a while but eventually the computer crashed.

I didn't change the voltage or anything of that matter, just changed the multiplier. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks
 
ExMachina said:
Look what got delivered today!

The Newegg box didn't lie. ;) My first mechanical keyboard and it's awesome. I noticed that sometimes I couldn't register certain combinations of multiple WASD keys + shift on my cheapo KB, so I decided to pick up a quality mechanical. Was debating between this and the tT Meka G1, but I decided that I didn't have the room for a huge board and didn't need the audio jacks.

Nice choice. I float between different keyboards, but the Das w/ blues is one I use as sort of my main driver (though when I get my HHKBP2 back I don't think that will remain the case).
 
So when I play Bad Company 2 or Battlefield 3, I notice that my fans will rev up really fast and then drop back down constantly. It's pretty annoying to hear, but it's also making me worry that something is wrong. It's strange because if I play Crysis my fans are normal, so it seems like it's just those two games. I can't tell if it's my case fans or my GPU fans. How do I go about troubleshooting/fixing this?
I've got a 6950 for my GPU, btw.
 
First ever gaming computer... BUILT! It's too bad I have to go to work for 8 hours and can't play anything on it yet because I'm still installing drivers :/ Such a buzzkill!

I can't get over how big the monitor is. It's 23.6 inches which doesn't seem like it should be that big but holy fuck in person it's giant... especially when you sit down in front of it. This is going to be a looooooong 8 hours of work :/
 
razgriz417 said:
Is there much of a performance gain going from 8gb of ram to 16gb? Trying to decide if I want to shell out another $50 for my new rig. Also for ram, would I have to buy the same brand/type or could I mix and match?

This is what I have right now http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55544&vpn=996770&manufacture=Mushkin%20Enhanced&promoid=1368
In almost any circumstance you won't see any benefit. The thing about RAM is that no matter how much you add, if you have more than you're using you won't see any improvements.

Unless you're dealing with virtual machines or are a professional video editor, it's not going to make a difference. Unless you are Dennis4K I guess. :P

Edit: To put this in perspective, the only reason people recommend going with 8GB over 4GB right now is the fact that RAM is extremely cheap and has nowhere to go but up. 4GB is still fine, and 8 is overkill for most usage, but it's an easy way of futureproofing yourself and doesn't cost very much.

By the time 16GB will be worthwhile for gaming or general usage, we'll probably be on DDR4 (or 5?).
 
rodrigoviola said:
PC-GAF, need some help to overclock my i5-2500k for the first time ever, I have it paired with a GA-Z68A-D3-B3 Gigabyte MB.

I went to the BIOS and changed the multiplier from default value of x33 to x45, booted W7 and it showed me my new speed of 4.5 Ghz, ran prime95 for a while but eventually the computer crashed.

I didn't change the voltage or anything of that matter, just changed the multiplier. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks
Set the voltage control to manual in the bios and make sure it's on something like 1.3v.
Now do a fast test with IntelBurntestV2 (far faster then Prime95) and lower it till it crashes again, then just use the lowest stable voltage.

Tonner Cyn said:
So what is the reason for going with 1.5v RAM vs other voltages?
Some motherboards simply don't support them.
 
rodrigoviola said:
PC-GAF, need some help to overclock my i5-2500k for the first time ever, I have it paired with a GA-Z68A-D3-B3 Gigabyte MB.

I went to the BIOS and changed the multiplier from default value of x33 to x45, booted W7 and it showed me my new speed of 4.5 Ghz, ran prime95 for a while but eventually the computer crashed.

I didn't change the voltage or anything of that matter, just changed the multiplier. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks


I'm currently in pretty much the same boat. First, I've read that it is better to try to work up to 4.5 as opposed to going to it right away. The problem you're probably having is that you need to change the voltage for your cpu. Unfortunately, that is what I need help doing myself. What motherboard do you have? There are some informative videos on youtube but unfortunately none for my Gigabyte Z68A-B3H-D3.
 
chaosblade said:
In almost any circumstance you won't see any benefit. The thing about RAM is that no matter how much you add, if you have more than you're using you won't see any improvements.

Unless you're dealing with virtual machines or are a professional video editor, it's not going to make a difference. Unless you are Dennis4K I guess. :P

Alright thanks, I'll stick with what I got for now then, here's hoping all my parts get here soon :D
 
Oh, here is a Prime95 question. When I start it up it sometimes asks if I want to just stress test. I have been saying yes. Then I start the test from the default option (the third one I believe). The first option is the one that doesn't test RAM much at all, the 2nd option I believe tests some RAM and generates the most heat - is that the one I want to be running? The way my temps have been on the 3rd option I would hate to see what they jump up to under those conditions.
 
rodrigoviola said:
PC-GAF, need some help to overclock my i5-2500k for the first time ever, I have it paired with a GA-Z68A-D3-B3 Gigabyte MB.

I went to the BIOS and changed the multiplier from default value of x33 to x45, booted W7 and it showed me my new speed of 4.5 Ghz, ran prime95 for a while but eventually the computer crashed.

I didn't change the voltage or anything of that matter, just changed the multiplier. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks

The OP has a link to a pretty straightfoward "how to".

Basically you'll need to increase your CPU voltage. It's best to do it in increments and do some stability tests after each increase.
 
Syphon Filter said:
yes,currently on that mode now since it's the only way it works.

Did you download anything before losing signal (update drivers ... etc)? Did you try uninstalling/reinstall video drivers (use driver sweeper)?
 
Spectacular Dr Dawg said:
Finallt got most of the parts to my PC. All that's left now is the CPU which should be arriving tomorrow.
Very nice setup. What are you coming from?
ExMachina said:
Look what got delivered today!

1KpcN.png


The Newegg box didn't lie. ;) My first mechanical keyboard and it's awesome. I noticed that sometimes I couldn't register certain combinations of multiple WASD keys + shift on my cheapo KB, so I decided to pick up a quality mechanical. Was debating between this and the tT Meka G1, but I decided that I didn't have the room for a huge board and didn't need the audio jacks.
Nice, big fan of my DAS :)
Tonner Cyn said:
So what is the reason for going with 1.5v RAM vs other voltages?
Compatibility. DDR3 was meant to be 1.5V, but early chips needed 1.65V to run which was barely in spec.
Bungieware said:
Also, Coretemp has it running at 44C. That seems quite high when all I'm doing is browsing gaf. Should I pick up a Hyper 212?
Idle sensors on current chips can be pretty inaccurate, look at your load temps and judge from there.
HooYaH said:
Guess there are new MBs from ASUS z68 with PCIE 3 coming in Oct and a newer edition of 212+ called 212 Evo which just released.

http://www.engadget.com/2011/09/29/...ress-motherboards-for-early-ea/#disqus_thread

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099&Tpk=212 evo
Yeah there's a review of the EVO somewhere. Basically at $30 the 212+ is nice. $35 puts it in competition with other really good $40 coolers, so I don't know. I'll probably just add a $40 option to Enthusiast or something.
PCI-E 3.0 is pointless atm.
 
If I was to buy all the parts for the 425 dollar budget build in the OP and swapped the gpu for a HD6870 1GB card at what resolution and how many frames per second could I run the newest games on maximum settings? And when I say newest I am talking about all the games that are coming out this year and next year.
 
terrdactycalsrock said:
If I was to buy all the parts for the 425 dollar budget build in the OP and swapped the gpu for a HD6870 1GB card at what resolution and how many frames per second could I run the newest games on maximum settings? And when I say newest I am talking about all the games that are coming out this year and next year.
I can't say anything other than it would run them pretty well.

With some older titles you can be getting 60fps at 1080 on Med/High with 2xAA or so.
Upcoming newer titles will be working well, but I can't give any specifics. BF3 should be a nice 30FPS (judging from what little info I do have).

At the same time I don't know how much of an impact losing HT from the 2100 is as well.

So the answer is: Probably just fine depending on your standards. :p
 
Hazaro said:
Idle sensors on current chips can be pretty inaccurate, look at your load temps and judge from there.
They went up into the 80s when I was playing BF3 just earlier. I ordered a Hyper 212 anyway as it was only £17.99. I asked earlier, but are there any recommended case fans that are easy to install in an R3?
 
HooYaH said:
Did you download anything before losing signal (update drivers ... etc)? Did you try uninstalling/reinstall video drivers (use driver sweeper)?
I tried to reinstall the drivers but when it auto installs the video controllers and i need to restart it still has the same problem. Also i tried to install the drivers while on safe mode without restarting after the controllers are installed. It just had a red screen with pixels. Should i try an older driver?
 
ExMachina said:
Look what got delivered today!

The Newegg box didn't lie. ;) My first mechanical keyboard and it's awesome. I noticed that sometimes I couldn't register certain combinations of multiple WASD keys + shift on my cheapo KB, so I decided to pick up a quality mechanical. Was debating between this and the tT Meka G1, but I decided that I didn't have the room for a huge board and didn't need the audio jacks.

I am considering picking one of those up. I see you got the S model. How quiet is it?
 
Don't know if anyone noticed AMD's stock fell over 13% today. They lowered their sales predictions for the next quarter because of manufacturing glitches from their German chip supplier. Not good news for Bulldozer?
 
Hazaro said:
I can't say anything other than it would run them pretty well.

With some older titles you can be getting 60fps at 1080 on Med/High with 2xAA or so.
Upcoming newer titles will be working well, but I can't give any specifics. BF3 should be a nice 30FPS (judging from what little info I do have).

At the same time I don't know how much of an impact losing HT from the 2100 is as well.

So the answer is: Probably just fine depending on your standards. :p

Hmm okay. What I might do is put all of my extra money into a nice cpu because I never hear of anyone upgrading thier cpu, which makes me think it isnt possible. Then, I would just get a lower end gpu to tide me over until I can save up for a really high end one.
 
Bungieware said:
They went up into the 80s when I was playing BF3 just earlier. I ordered a Hyper 212 anyway as it was only £17.99. I asked earlier, but are there any recommended case fans that are easy to install in an R3?
Inexpensive 120s with good airflow: Yate Loon, Nexus, Scythe Kama Flow II, Scythe S-Flex, Thermalright X-Silent, Enermax T.B. Silence, Zaward Golfs

Good, but pricier 120s: Gentle Typhoon AP-14/AP-15 (or lower/higher rpm model depending on your noise tolerance), Noiseblocker M12-S1/M12-S2, or M12-PS/M12-P (latter pair are PWM), Be Quiet! Silent Wings (or newer Dark Wings), Noctua

You can find some of these in 140mm variants, as well.


Clydefrog said:
Don't know if anyone noticed AMD's stock fell over 13% today. They lowered their sales predictions for the next quarter because of manufacturing glitches from their German chip supplier. Not good news for Bulldozer?
While AMD is selling locked dual- and tri-core FM1 CPUs that don't quite pass muster as quads, Llano's GPU is the primary culprit here. Immature 32nm process, combined with new process technology for GPU manufacturing has caused some issues. Along with locked dual and tri-core A-series parts, they've resorted to selling FM1 Athlons with functioning CPU cores and locked GPU cores.

Zambezi Bulldozer won't be suffering from quite the same problems.


Spectacular Dr Dawg said:
Finallt got most of the parts to my PC. All that's left now is the CPU which should be arriving tomorrow.
http://i.imgur.com/wVObwl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HmTEzl.jpg
Parts pictured:
Case: Lian Li PC-Z70
Motherboard: MSI Z68 GD80
PSU: Corsair Hx 850W
GPU: MSI Lightning GTX 580 1,5GB
RAM: G.Skill 8GB Sniper DDR3 1866MHz
Disc Drive: Samsung 12x Combo Blu-Ray Drive
SSD: Crucial M4 128GB
HDD1: Samsung F3 1TB 7200rpm
HDD2:Samsung F4 2TB 5400rpm
HDD3:Samsung F4 2TB 5400rpm (will use both of them in raid1)
Soundcard: Asus Xonar DG

Not pictured :
CPU: i5 2500k
Cooler: Thermalright Silver Arrow

Accessories:
Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Keyboard
Asus 23"VG236H 120HZ 3D monitor
Nvidia 3D Vision Kit
Congrats. Feel free to post more pics if/when you can.
 
TheExodu5 said:
I would really like to sample the EliteKeyboards Topre Realforce one of these days:

http://elitekeyboards.com/proddata/images/th/se02b0_full_1000_th0x0.jpg

I wonder what a $265 keyboard feels like. :o

They're just a reseller; stupidface Japan has like twenty more variations and they're all cheaper.

The HHKBP2 uses the same switches and keycaps. It's not like a Cherry switch at all, and honestly is closer to a high quality rubber dome board (it does use rubber domes still after all). In my opinion the Topre has an amazing build quality though, and those keycaps are easily the best in the world. The noise it makes is also kind of unique and is a lot more pleasant than Cherry switches.

I'd still recommend the HHKBP2 over the Topre, as it uses the same switches but has a better layout. A little awkward at first with gaming because the F keys have to be optioned, though the layout gives you a much better location for Ctrl as a hotkey modifier for stuff like MMOs.
 
I need help!

Just purchased Witcher 2 and it's skipping on medium specs. The odd thing is it recommended high specs!? What is bottlenecking my computer?

- ATI 5670
- 4x SATA drives through RAID 0
- 8GB of RAM
- i7 processor
- game resolution set to 1920x1080
- Win 7

What the heck? I added 4GB of RAM and it helped a little, but when I fight multiple people it still skips frames.

The only thing I can think of is my 4x SATA2 hard drives are ancient. Would that be causing my hiccup?


My Windows 7 Base Score is 6.8, and that's the Primary Hard Disk. All others are 7.5 through 7.8. What does GAF recommend?
 
·feist· said:
Inexpensive 120s with good airflow: Yate Loon, Nexus, Scythe Kama Flow II, Scythe S-Flex, Thermalright X-Silent, Enermax T.B. Silence, Zaward Golfs

Good, but pricier 120s: Gentle Typhoon AP-14/AP-15 (or lower/higher rpm model depending on your noise tolerance), Noiseblocker M12-S1/M12-S2, or M12-PS/M12-P (latter pair are PWM), Be Quiet! Silent Wings (or newer Dark Wings), Noctua

You can find some of these in 140mm variants, as well.

Thanks for the reply. And anyone else who replied that I might have carelessly missed. I'm trying to work out how I should go about improving the cooling in the case. This is how it looks at the moment.

* 1 rear Fractal Design 120mm @ 1350rpm included

* 1 front Fractal Design 120mm @ 1350rpm included

* 1 front 120mm fan (optional)

* 1 bottom 120mm/140mm fan (optional)

* 1 side panel 120mm/140mm fan (optional)

* 2 top 120mm/140mm fan (optional)

If I went with this:

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120m...ce=google+shopping&utm_medium=google+shopping

Should I stick it in the rear slot (lol) and move the stock fan somewhere else? I'm not sure how much use the front fan is because there's a door in front of it and then the door for the front of the case as well. Is doing anything? Also, my room is quite dusty. Would putting fans in the top slots be a bad idea considering that?

edit: What about putting this in the remaining front slot as well:

http://www.dabs.com/products/akasa-...le&utm_medium=product+search&utm_content=Q200
 
Can you link to the GPU you're running, and do you have a lot of HDDs?


partime said:
I need help!

Just purchased Witcher 2 and it's skipping on medium specs. The odd thing is it recommended high specs!? What is bottlenecking my computer?

- ATI 5670
- 4x SATA drives through RAID 0
- 8GB of RAM
- i7 processor
- game resolution set to 1920x1080
- Win 7

What the heck? I added 4GB of RAM and it helped a little, but when I fight multiple people it still skips frames.

The only thing I can think of is my 4x SATA2 hard drives are ancient. Would that be causing my hiccup?


My Windows 7 Base Score is 6.8, and that's the Primary Hard Disk. All others are 7.5 through 7.8. What does GAF recommend?
RAID on "ancient," or worn down HDDs can cause what you're describing. If you're experiencing similar problems in other titles (like MMOs, or stream-heavy games), software, and general use (BSODs, for instance), you'll need to address that. Taking any possible drive issues out of the equation, your GPU is easily the biggest bottleneck you have.
 
partime said:
I need help!

Just purchased Witcher 2 and it's skipping on medium specs. The odd thing is it recommended high specs!? What is bottlenecking my computer?

- ATI 5670
- 4x SATA drives through RAID 0
- 8GB of RAM
- i7 processor
- game resolution set to 1920x1080
- Win 7
Your gaming performance bottleneck has to be the ATI 5670. But when you say "skip frames", do you mean that the game runs exceedingly well most of the time?

Try dropping your resolution down to 720p and low settings, just to test and see if the GPU is causing it.
 
Wallach said:
Nice choice. I float between different keyboards, but the Das w/ blues is one I use as sort of my main driver (though when I get my HHKBP2 back I don't think that will remain the case).
Yep, I'm happy with it. Did a little reading and decided that the DAS with Browns would be the best "entry level" model for me, since I'll mostly be gaming but still do want a nice typing experience.

I'm kind of afraid that it may serve as a gateway into yet another expensive input device habit... not a good thing considering how much I've already spent on an arcade stick collection!

Hazaro said:
Nice, big fan of my DAS :)
Yup, I'm now a fan too! the bad thing is that now I never want to type on non-mechanical KBs What model/switches do you have?

Gunmonkey36 said:
I am considering picking one of those up. I see you got the S model. How quiet is it?
It can be a bit louder than the membrane KB I was using before. While there's no sound when the switch engages, pushing a key all the way down results in a low-pitched "thunk."
 
Hoping for a quick affirmation from a PC expert in here. I wasn't thrilled with my HD5770's BF3 Beta performance, so I'm going to squeak in on the last day of those Microcenter coupons to grab a new GPU.

Am I going way too top heavy on a GPU if I purchase a GTX 570 with my existing:

AMD Athlon II X4 630 2.8ghz CPU?

Hoping to squeeze another ~1.5yrs out before I have to do a full blown MB+CPU update.

Thank you!
 
Another stupid question here. I currently have a radeon HD4850 and I am upgrading to a brand new HD6950. What is the best way to do this? Do I just swap cards and upgrade drivers, or do I uninstall the drivers, power down, swap to the new card and update from there?
 
karlhungis said:
Another stupid question here. I currently have a radeon HD4850 and I am upgrading to a brand new HD6950. What is the best way to do this? Do I just swap cards and upgrade drivers, or do I uninstall the drivers, power down, swap to the new card and update from there?
ATI -> ATI you should be good on just swapping the card, no new drivers needed. If you were going ATI -> nVidia, then a driver wipe would be required, but you should be good to go.
 
rhfb said:
ATI -> ATI you should be good on just swapping the card, no new drivers needed. If you were going ATI -> nVidia, then a driver wipe would be required, but you should be good to go.

Thank you sir, or ma'am.
 
ExMachina said:
Yup, I'm now a fan too! the bad thing is that now I never want to type on non-mechanical KBs What model/switches do you have?
DAS Ultimate with Blues
PatzCU said:
Hoping for a quick affirmation from a PC expert in here. I wasn't thrilled with my HD5770's BF3 Beta performance, so I'm going to squeak in on the last day of those Microcenter coupons to grab a new GPU.

Am I going way too top heavy on a GPU if I purchase a GTX 570 with my existing:

AMD Athlon II X4 630 2.8ghz CPU?

Hoping to squeeze another ~1.5yrs out before I have to do a full blown MB+CPU update.

Thank you!
Take with a grain of salt, but from the numbers I saw before open beta, an x4 630 should support a 570 well enough.

I'm sure some better numbers will be out later since the x4's are pretty popular.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to all the folks who have put in a lot of time and effort into this thread. Just built a PC based on the advice on this thread. Love the end result, it's the best PC I've ever had to date!
 
I'm so sad. I came home to find my computer components at my door (enthusiast pc). I was pretty excited but took my time installing everything, and things were going smooth. I was already installing the windows updates until I heard a loud pop. That was the PSU.. So now it's probably going to take forever by sending it back to newegg and getting a new one. I just wonder what went wrong. Did I mess up somewhere or did I just have a bad PSU? And am also concerned other components got damaged by it. Do I have anything to worry about? The prospect of waiting over a week to find out if anything got damaged is really not a fun one. In addition to that I really wanted to play some BF3!!!

Anyway, for what it's worth, I'm loving the Corsair 400R case. Installing everything was a breeze and the system was almost silent. Too bad the Corsair AX850 PSU turned things sour.
 
ToD_ said:
I'm so sad. I came home to find my computer components at my door (enthusiast pc). I was pretty excited but took my time installing everything, and things were going smooth. I was already installing the windows updates until I heard a loud pop. That was the PSU.. So now it's probably going to take forever by sending it back to newegg and getting a new one. I just wonder what went wrong. Did I mess up somewhere or did I just have a bad PSU? And am also concerned other components got damaged by it. Do I have anything to worry about? The prospect of waiting over a week to find out if anything got damaged is really not a fun one. In addition to that I really wanted to play some BF3!!!

Anyway, for what it's worth, I'm loving the Corsair 400R case. Installing everything was a breeze and the system was almost silent. Too bad the Corsair AX850 PSU turned things sour.
You likely had a bad PSU - though I should ask if you plugged it into a surge protector first?
 
XiaNaphryz said:
You likely had a bad PSU - though I should ask if you plugged it into a surge protector first?
Yes, I had it plugged into a surge protector. I wanted to use my old PSU to test if components are alive, but it doesn't have the proper pci-e connectors (nor is it powerful enough to power the video card). The cpu/case fans did at least spin, but that's not telling me much. I'm very tempted to simply buy a new PSU at best buy after work tomorrow to check if everything is ok and to have the computer running. Then return it when I get the replacement. I hate doing that, though.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but do those dual 8-pin cards need the power to boot? I was under the impression that most cards could still boot but only in a low power 2D mode?
 
ToD_ said:
Yes, I had it plugged into a surge protector. I wanted to use my old PSU to test if components are alive, but it doesn't have the proper pci-e connectors (nor is it powerful enough to power the video card). The cpu/case fans did at least spin, but that's not telling me much. I'm very tempted to simply buy a new PSU at best buy after work tomorrow to check if everything is ok and to have the computer running. Then return it when I get the replacement. I hate doing that, though.
Do it. You could have something else gone bad, MB, and not find out until PSU comes back. Then, you have to wait longer RMA the MB.
 
Crazymoogle said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but do those dual 8-pin cards need the power to boot? I was under the impression that most cards could still boot but only in a low power 2D mode?
It seems it varies from card to card. Some cards don't boot, others beep and some go in a low power 2d mode. Not sure what an MSI GTX 580 (3GB) is supposed to do.

And yes, I think I will buy that PSU to test things with as I really don't want to wait until I get my replacement to find out more.
 
Simple question? i updated my bios, and now when it restarts it completely shuts the PC down for 2secs and then proceeds to restart, should i leave it like that? or go into my bios and change it?

First time updating bios, can't do it right now but just looking for opinions, currently running a chkdsk only at 4% got a long way, so i am heading to bed...
 
Some random Microcenter and NCIX US deals.

Remember, NCIX has free shipping on orders of $50 or more.

NrQdz.jpg


$150 - Intel Core i5 2500K
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0354589

51czGKRyQZL._AA75_.jpg

$24 - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0315397

GkA0j.png

$29 - Corsair A70
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=53612&vpn=CAFA70&manufacture=Corsair&promoid=1115

51pXMiReM3L._AA115_.jpg

$250 - MSI GeForce GTX 570
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=57383&vpn=N570GTX-M2D12D5&manufacture=MSI/MicroStar&promoid=1115

Micro Center also briefly had the new Hyper 212 Evo on sale for $29 on their site, but the item has been completely removed, for whatever reason.
 
Nemesis121 said:
Simple question? i updated my bios, and now when it restarts it completely shuts the PC down for 2secs and then proceeds to restart, should i leave it like that? or go into my bios and change it?

First time updating bios, can't do it right now but just looking for opinions, currently running a chkdsk only at 4% got a long way, so i am heading to bed...
Clear the CMOS. Load default settings, restart, and then, use whatever settings you want in Bios.
 
·feist· said:
Some random Microcenter and NCIX US deals.

Remember, NCIX has free shipping on orders of $50 or more.

NrQdz.jpg


$150 - Intel Core i5 2500K
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0354589
Weird, I just mentioned at work that MicroCenter had those on sale near launch for $150.
Is it $170 even without the special sale still? Pffft.

Anyone buying a PC soon should go ahead and grab that if possible. In store only.
 
Dont know if you guys remember but i got a new PSU back from RMA today after 1 month and 15 days. Never buying from that place again.

Too tired to install but i'll try tomorrow and see if the coil whine issues are gone.
 
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