"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Smokey said:
I'm thinking it's because the cards dump the air into the case, and then the 180mm fans are blowing and therefor pushing that hot air right back on the cards. I will try the open panel test first before I put my machine on it's face lol

but again I don't really see how that is much different from a "normal" case airflow setup

air always goes from the front of the cards towards the back of the cards (where the slots are vented I presume)

in that sense the RV02 is nothing but a regular case with 180mm fans in the front and a single 120mm exhaust in the back ... it may lack fans in the "roof" (back) but those won't make a huge impact considering the massive intake fans, and it doesn't have a sidepanel intake but then again most cases don't have one in stock config

but yeah try it out practice is always different then theory ^^
 
Banging my damn head right now. I can't believe I overlooked this. The whole point of the FT02 is to have the air push out the top of the case. Well fuck if my cards put air in the case that's a fucking problem. Hot air is just being circulated around by the 3 big fans at the bottom.

Son of a bitch


n0n44m said:
but again I don't really see how that is much different from a "normal" case airflow setup

air always goes from the front of the cards towards the back of the cards (where the slots are vented I presume)

in that sense the RV02 is nothing but a regular case with 180mm fans in the front and a single 120mm exhaust in the back ... it may lack fans in the "roof" (back) but those won't make a huge impact considering the massive intake fans, and it doesn't have a sidepanel intake but then again most cases don't have one in stock config

but yeah try it out practice is always different then theory ^^


But that 120mm exhaust is the only fan I have pulling our out of the case. With as much heat that gets dumped by these cards that's not going to work. With the HAX or other cases I believe they have huge exhaust fans for more efficient cooling for the type of cards I have.

I think I'm going to have a drink fuck man

EDIT: AND I'm using that 120mm fan as an intake for my Corsair H70. I just realized that too. I'm screwed.
 
Time to get some 120mm x 38mm fans bro.
Also something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CHSC10/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...toring_-_69CFM.html?tl=g36c15s562&id=f682cFCf
60-75 CFM 38mm isn't too bad.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185054 (Loud)

nAozm.jpg
 
Smokey said:
But that 120mm exhaust is the only fan I have pulling our out of the case. With as much heat that gets dumped by these cards that's not going to work. With the HAX or other cases I believe they have huge exhaust fans for more efficient cooling for the type of cards I have.

I think I'm going to have a drink fuck man

EDIT: AND I'm using that 120mm fan as an intake for my Corsair H70. I just realized that too. I'm screwed.

what have the other cases got? 1 fan in the back, 2 in the roof (usually)

that's the same as yours in the back and 2 more than your case in the roof, but it is your 2nd card getting hot which means it's the air between the cards and not the air between the 2nd card and the CPU area. I don't think that any roof/back fans will change the airflow between cards...

if it's really an outtake problem, easiest fix is to cut a hole or two for 120/140 fans in your window and have them exhaust the hot air out of the sidepanel :) worked like a charm for my single GTX480 in the CM690 II with the official sidepanel

EDITEDIT: wait are you now saying that the 120mm fan is forcing air downwards into the case? That's hardly optimal :p
 
n0n44m said:
EDITEDIT: wait are you now saying that the 120mm fan is forcing air downwards into the case? That's hardly optimal :p


Yes. The temps on my CPU were much better with the fan pulling air into the case. When I had it taking air out of the case and through the radiator temps were quite a bit higher. I'm using the 2 fans that came with my H70.

That's why I said I'm screwed.
 
Smokey said:
Yes. The temps on my CPU were much better with the fan pulling air into the case. When I had it taking air out of the case and through the radiator temps were quite a bit higher. I'm using the 2 fans that came with my H70.

That's why I said I'm screwed.

You should be able to sell the case for a decent price and get a HAF X.

Sigh I feel like I should have gone SLI with my 580's. 1600p is murder for 1 580 on BF3. My hope is that the full game and upcoming drivers are more optimized. Also 1.5gb is not enough VRAM at that res. ROAR!!!!
 
ombz said:
If I go with the $845 build from the op, can I just use the hard drive from an old desktop (hitachi hdt72503)?
Yes. You are looking at near double the read and write speed if you get a new drive though.
 
RukusProvider said:
You should be able to sell the case for a decent price and get a HAF X.


Rukus keeping it 100 i see.

All this case modification stuff is a foreign language to me. That's one area I'm not even gonna act like I know what's going on. ughhhhhhhhhhh
 
I'm thinking of upgrading my ATI HD4850 to a GTX560 Ti. I'm trying to decide between these two, but I'm confused about which would be best. Also, I'm open to suggestions if there are any others beyond these that I'm not thinking about:

EVGA 01G-P3-1567-KR

EVGA 01G-P3-1563-AR

The "KR" and "AR" mean different warranties, but is there any difference in the cards? Would the two fans of the KR be better than the single of the AR?
 
Smokey said:
Rukus keeping it 100 i see.

All this case modification stuff is a foreign language to me. That's one area I'm not even gonna act like I know what's going on. ughhhhhhhhhhh

well flip the CPU fans first so you have proper airflow going on. CPU will be hotter, but it should be able to take it.

if the card still heats up past 90 then do the table fan check -> if that helps you'll want an extra outtake fan (in the window next to the GPUs), or a case that offers that possibility

just did a quick Google search and a regular case will probably lower GPU temps by a few degrees as well because heatpipes perform better horizontally. But the MSI Lightning type heatpipes aren't as sensitive as those on some other aftermarket brands, so therefore the gain seems to be only 3~5 degrees. Not exactly a world of difference.
 
Smokey said:
I'm thinking it's because the cards dump the air into the case, and then the 180mm fans are blowing and therefor pushing that hot air right back on the cards. I will try the open panel test first before I put my machine on it's face lol
Correct smokey, I put an arctic cooling accelero on my EVGA GTX580 and although the GPU temps were great, my case temps went up.
Stock coolers on GPU's may run hotter and be louder, they at least dump the hot air out the back of the case.
 
n0n44m said:
well flip the CPU fans first so you have proper airflow going on. CPU will be hotter, but it should be able to take it.

if the card still heats up past 90 then do the table fan check -> if that helps you'll want an extra outtake fan (in the window next to the GPUs), or a case that offers that possibility

just did a quick Google search and a regular case will probably lower GPU temps by a few degrees as well because heatpipes perform better horizontally. But the MSI Lightning type heatpipes aren't as sensitive as those on some other aftermarket brands, so therefore the gain seems to be only 3~5 degrees. Not exactly a world of difference.


I was mistaken, I had the fans on the radiator taking air in the case and pushing it out. I'm cool with the temps being in the 80s. It's when it hits 90s that I start freaking out. Also cleaned the filters on the 3 180mm fans. Were quiteeeee dirty.

I've also switched all 3 180mm fans to High from their default Low position. I can feel the cool air coming from the bottom of the case, and it's not all that loud. Cards are sitting idle at 39c and 35c. Played Witcher again @ 910mhz for a bit, max temps from Afterburner shows 85c on top card, 74c on bottom. I did change the orientation of one of the 120mm fans on the radiator, dunno if that's helping any.

I dunno guess I'll keep messing around. Will head to MC tomorrow and look for some better 120mm fans.
 
hello again glorious pc-gaf a while back i was going to buy a pc and thanks to alot of you guys i was about to pull the trigger...but you know life got in the way so i never bought it. well i am back again and i am ready here are the specs:

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner

SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

015-P3-1580-AR GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

CORSAIR Professional Series HX750 (CMPSU-750HX) 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory

ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler

Corsair Special Edition White Graphite Series 600T Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case


please please tell me if i am missing anything as i dont know anything about computers,most of this build came from the OP $1000 build but i changed a few things. let me know what you guys think
 
Smokey said:
I was mistaken, I had the fans on the radiator taking air in the case and pushing it out. I'm cool with the temps being in the 80s. It's when it hits 90s that I start freaking out. Also cleaned the filters on the 3 180mm fans. Were quiteeeee dirty.

I've also switched all 3 180mm fans to High from their default Low position. I can feel the cool air coming from the bottom of the case, and it's not all that loud. Cards are sitting idle at 39c and 35c. Played Witcher again @ 910mhz for a bit, max temps from Afterburner shows 85c on top card, 74c on bottom. I did change the orientation of one of the 120mm fans on the radiator, dunno if that's helping any.

I dunno guess I'll keep messing around. Will head to MC tomorrow and look for some better 120mm fans.
If you can fit 38mm fans get em.
AIRic said:
I have a Xigmatek 650W PS, is it enough for the GTX570?
Yes
zulfate said:
hello again glorious pc-gaf a while back i was going to buy a pc and thanks to alot of you guys i was about to pull the trigger...but you know life got in the way so i never bought it. well i am back again and i am ready here are the specs:

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner

SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

015-P3-1580-AR GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

CORSAIR Professional Series HX750 (CMPSU-750HX) 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory

ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler

Corsair Special Edition White Graphite Series 600T Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case


please please tell me if i am missing anything as i dont know anything about computers,most of this build came from the OP $1000 build but i changed a few things. let me know what you guys think
Looks good`
 
Lonely1 said:
Well, I'm starting to regret my decision to go for an H67 mobo instead of an P67 one is . Or I'm overreacting?
Did you get a K cpu? If yes, not being able to get another ~1GHz overclock speed wasn't a very smart move. If no, doesn't matter. Then, the regret would be not getting a K cpu and P67 / Z68 MB.
 
So my step-father bought a computer combo off New Egg with an AMD Athlon II triple core CPU, a Gigabyte 78LMT-S2P AM3+ mobo, a single stick of Corsair 4gb RAM, 500gb HDD and some cheap ass case with an integrated 450w PSU. No optical drive included.

I put it together for him and tried to use a usb drive with Win 7 iso to install the OS. When it powers up, we get the mobo "title" screen for a few seconds. No matter what key I press (tab for post screen, delete for bios, F12 for boot, etc.) it just goes to this screen:




Any one have a clue? I wonder if I was doing the whole iso/usb thing right...
 
chewydogg said:
I wonder if I was doing the whole iso/usb thing right...
Possible. Press F12 during boot to get into the boot menu. If your USB drive doesn't show up there, review whatever steps you took to make it bootable.
 
Anyone own the Samsung BX2450 24 LED Monitor?

Looking for some opinions, they are going for pretty cheap here - $169 AUD.

Upgrading from a Dell 2407WFP Monitor.
 
Rabid Wolverine said:
Anyone own the Samsung BX2450 24 LED Monitor?

Looking for some opinions, they are going for pretty cheap here - $169 AUD.

Upgrading from a Dell 2407WFP Monitor.

make no sense...how is going from a 24" 1920x1200 S-PVA panel to a 24" 1920x1080 TN panel an upgrade?
spend the 169 on some ssd is better.
 
if so call Dell and ask for a quote on their new 24" ultrasharp line, usually can get better discounts than their online store, may not be cheaper than 169 but the samsung colors and viewing angles may not suit your eyes after using 2407w :D
 
So I have the p67 extreme4 motherboard and when I boot up the computer and start BIOS there is an option to overclock the cpu to several different speeds, 4 ghz, 4.2ghz, etc. Is this safe to do? Is this even real overclocking? After reading a few guides it seems like you have to put in specific numbers to match what components you have. I have a 2500k cpu 3.3 ghz quad core. Any help would be much appreciated!
 
Smokey said:
This case was $200+. I refuse.


you'll need to put a fan right behind the two cards, that's one way to blow out that hot air. hey, there's always that liquid cooled PNY GTX 580.

edit: not to brag but I'm glad I went with the Lian-li PC-80N there is sooo much space for the cards to breathe that i can add multiple fans with a bit of rigging and still have it look quite pleasing looks wise.
 
gtx580 is hot card, 2 gtx580s, overclocked is hothot!
i wouldnt want to change the 180mm to 120mm, it make no sense, you need high rotation thus noise to come close to 180mm cooling

try this, put only the front and middle fan to high, the back to low. somehow putting all high cause some turbulence to the gpu cooling.

if you use only 1optical drive, put the drive on the 2nd from top slot and can then place a 140mm fan in between the drive and cage area floor. it helps to direct air towards the gpu.
 
Smokey said:
I was mistaken, I had the fans on the radiator taking air in the case and pushing it out. I'm cool with the temps being in the 80s. It's when it hits 90s that I start freaking out. Also cleaned the filters on the 3 180mm fans. Were quiteeeee dirty.

I've also switched all 3 180mm fans to High from their default Low position. I can feel the cool air coming from the bottom of the case, and it's not all that loud. Cards are sitting idle at 39c and 35c. Played Witcher again @ 910mhz for a bit, max temps from Afterburner shows 85c on top card, 74c on bottom. I did change the orientation of one of the 120mm fans on the radiator, dunno if that's helping any.

I dunno guess I'll keep messing around. Will head to MC tomorrow and look for some better 120mm fans.

85c for those cards is not bad Smokey, it is alot better than what you were hitting! When playing Witcher 2, I know you said you were playing in Uber mode, do you have V-Sync enabled and at what resolution are you playing at?
 
Glassboy said:
So I have the p67 extreme4 motherboard and when I boot up the computer and start BIOS there is an option to overclock the cpu to several different speeds, 4 ghz, 4.2ghz, etc. Is this safe to do? Is this even real overclocking? After reading a few guides it seems like you have to put in specific numbers to match what components you have. I have a 2500k cpu 3.3 ghz quad core. Any help would be much appreciated!
Those are what we refer to as auto overclocking tool / software. Generally, they offer lower speeds and use higher voltages. Thus, it's prefer to enter the settings manually. Either way you do it, as long as you keep the CPU under 75C and 1.35V, it's fairly safe. Most 2500K and 2600K will be able to hit 4.4-4.5GHz using 1.35 or less.
 
Corky said:
Hey guys I've got an issue that might be software related but I don't know.

So while previewing pictures in windows 7, for example a screenshot from a game the colors and the general image quality looks horrendous as if it's been compressed to hell and back and had every contrast/color level messed with.

But if I upload said picture and just view it from the imagelink, the picture looks like it should, that is great. Anyone have the faintest idea what I'm talking about?

Solved it, it had to do with W7 color management for my monitor, it had somehow downloaded a profile or something ( maybe via an update I guess ), removing this made previewing images in w7 go back to normal. Which is the way I used to be before all of this. Just had to remove the profile.
 
chewydogg said:
So my step-father bought a computer combo off New Egg with an AMD Athlon II triple core CPU, a Gigabyte 78LMT-S2P AM3+ mobo, a single stick of Corsair 4gb RAM, 500gb HDD and some cheap ass case with an integrated 450w PSU. No optical drive included.

I put it together for him and tried to use a usb drive with Win 7 iso to install the OS. When it powers up, we get the mobo "title" screen for a few seconds. No matter what key I press (tab for post screen, delete for bios, F12 for boot, etc.) it just goes to this screen:[/URL]


Any one have a clue? I wonder if I was doing the whole iso/usb thing right...

What this means is that when the BIOS is trying to scan all of the hardware, something doesn't return. So you need to start pulling and re-plugging peripherals; PCI cards, USB shit especially.

If that doesn't get it past verifying DMI data, go into the BIOS into the PnP section, look for "Reset extended system configuration data" (it might just be like ESCD), enable it and reboot.
 
Could someone possibly help me out with this. I really need help here.

Bungieware said:
I'm trying to work out how I should go about improving the cooling in the case. This is how it looks at the moment.

* 1 rear Fractal Design 120mm @ 1350rpm included

* 1 front Fractal Design 120mm @ 1350rpm included

* 1 front 120mm fan (optional)

* 1 bottom 120mm/140mm fan (optional)

* 1 side panel 120mm/140mm fan (optional)

* 2 top 120mm/140mm fan (optional)

If I went with this:

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120m...ce=google+shopping&utm_medium=google+shopping

Should I stick it in the rear slot (lol) and move the stock fan somewhere else? I'm not sure how much use the front fan is because there's a door in front of it and then the door for the front of the case as well. Is doing anything? Also, my room is quite dusty. Would putting fans in the top slots be a bad idea considering that?

edit: What about putting this in the remaining front slot as well:

http://www.dabs.com/products/akasa-...le&utm_medium=product+search&utm_content=Q200
 
Bungieware said:
Could someone possibly help me out with this. I really need help here.

The front fans are intakes, so, after mounting the new scythe, you can put the fractal fan that you no longer need on the front without issues.
Remember to mount the included fan controller to slow down fans when needed and reduce noise.

If you really want to improve case cooling i would also install one 120mm fan on the side panel to suck heat from the gpu.
 
Principe Nero said:
The front fans are intakes, so, after mounting the new scythe, you can put the fractal fan that you no longer need on the front without issues.
Remember to mount the included fan controller to slow down fans when needed and reduce noise.

If you really want to improve case cooling i would also install one 120mm fan on the side panel to suck heat from the gpu.

Very helpful. Thank you. I'm going to hold off installing the fan controller because I'm an idiot, would probably fuck it up, and end up with none of the fans working.
 
First, I can't believe how much RAM has dropped. I paid $75 for 2x4 GB 1600 RAM with nice timings in May and now it seems almost common to find the same amount for $50. Even my 560 Ti has dropped about 15%, my case has dropped so that the regular price is the same as the ShellShocker deal I got it at, and the CM Hyper 212+ that was $30 when I bought (then went to $40 shortly thereafter) has dropped 10%. This is all the nature of the beast of course, but it never ceases to amaze me.

Also, I love the fall/winter. My i5 2500k idles at 17 C; today is the first night it got to almost freezing outside, so I haven't tested this under load yet, but yeah... it's ice cold.
 
botkiller said:
I'm thinking of upgrading my ATI HD4850 to a GTX560 Ti. I'm trying to decide between these two, but I'm confused about which would be best. Also, I'm open to suggestions if there are any others beyond these that I'm not thinking about:

EVGA 01G-P3-1567-KR

EVGA 01G-P3-1563-AR

The "KR" and "AR" mean different warranties, but is there any difference in the cards? Would the two fans of the KR be better than the single of the AR?

Looks like the difference really is just the cooling and $20 on the EVGA website. They are both clocked the same but I think the 2 fan setup would have better OC potential and run cooler.
 
knitoe said:
Did you get a K cpu? If yes, not being able to get another ~1GHz overclock speed wasn't a very smart move. If no, doesn't matter. Then, the regret would be not getting a K cpu and P67 / Z68 MB.
Yeah, it did because it though it was an easy way to get an HDMI out with sound until I decide to upgrade my card. I was in a hurry since my previous mobo died on me and I need my rig for work.
 
botkiller said:
I'm thinking of upgrading my ATI HD4850 to a GTX560 Ti. I'm trying to decide between these two, but I'm confused about which would be best. Also, I'm open to suggestions if there are any others beyond these that I'm not thinking about:

EVGA 01G-P3-1567-KR

EVGA 01G-P3-1563-AR

The "KR" and "AR" mean different warranties, but is there any difference in the cards? Would the two fans of the KR be better than the single of the AR?
I was in the same situation. Everything I read said that the only difference was the warranty. I went with the 3-year warranty because it came with Arkham City for free and the other did not.
 
Smokey said:
I was mistaken, I had the fans on the radiator taking air in the case and pushing it out. I'm cool with the temps being in the 80s. It's when it hits 90s that I start freaking out. Also cleaned the filters on the 3 180mm fans. Were quiteeeee dirty.

I've also switched all 3 180mm fans to High from their default Low position. I can feel the cool air coming from the bottom of the case, and it's not all that loud. Cards are sitting idle at 39c and 35c. Played Witcher again @ 910mhz for a bit, max temps from Afterburner shows 85c on top card, 74c on bottom. I did change the orientation of one of the 120mm fans on the radiator, dunno if that's helping any.

I dunno guess I'll keep messing around. Will head to MC tomorrow and look for some better 120mm fans.


With all that heat you may want to look into liquid cooling? I've never done it before.

My EVGA Superclocked 580s in SLI never really go above 65 on Witcher2....I'm not pushing clocks like yours though. I'm using the HAF922 case. I'm not the biggest fan of all the perforations on the case but I guess it helps with airflow?
 
It finally happened! I have a gaming PC (hooked up) too!

I got it for my birthday and I am pretty stoked! Core i5 2.8 ghz, 8 gigs of ram, my brother didn't tell me what the video card is but in Windows 7 rating it got 7.3 so I am sure its decent. 1 TB HDD.

Pretty stoked! If anyone in the master race would like to add me to steam I am Blkvlt, I don't have any games since money is tight (need some major dental work, broken tooth and my wisdom's are abscessing) but by the end of the month I'll be playing PC gaming a bit more freely!!! :D
 
Is there any noticeable latency when using a 15' HDMI cable? I'm guessing the cables listed as 'high speed' aren't really high speed. Would there be a certain brand anyone would recommend on the cheap that won't bend or cut out?
 
Mutagenic said:
Is there any noticeable latency when using a 15' HDMI cable? I'm guessing the cables listed as 'high speed' aren't really high speed. Would there be a certain brand anyone would recommend on the cheap that won't bend or cut out?
Just go amazon brand or bluejeanscable. Should be ok at that distance
 
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