piratepwnsninja
Member
Anyone have router recommendations? Its time to upgrade from my D-Link DGL-4300.
Buffalo. Great range, DD-WRT support, multiple router support, and more!piratepwnsninja said:Anyone have router recommendations? Its time to upgrade from my D-Link DGL-4300.
shagg_187 said:Buffalo. D-Link is such crap, I want to change it myself.
The Teachinator said:Just go amazon brand or bluejeanscable. Should be ok at that distance
grkazan12 said:So I didn't start the process yet, but I've been reading this guide for a bit and was wondering, is this best way to overclock? The automatic overclocking utilities in the EFI are not as good?
Guide in question :http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html
Yes. Trial and error since every chip is different. Auto overclocking HELL NO.grkazan12 said:So is this the definitive way of overlocking? and is the automatic overclocking tool in the EFI any good or better?
That is a shame. You might want to boost some voltages in your BIOS and see if that solves it. Also take out any extra cards if you have some.SalsaShark said:well PSU was quieter till today but it suddenly started doing the constant high pitched whine again, FML, dont know if a capacitator started vibrating the wrong way or wtf. Antec True Power NEW 750w btw. Im incredibly unlucky when it comes to this stuff it seems.
Headphones even at idle it is.
Boot up Rivatuner. Drag sliders until computer crashes / programs stop working.Mulligan said:Hey PCGAF!
I'm looking to overclock my gtx580 but have absolutely no idea on how as i've never overclocked before.. perhaps, if i feel confident enough after my 580 OC, i'll OC my CPU too. So are there any noob friendly GPU OC guides out there? a specific 580 OC guide would be even better.
No idea, if you find out lmk. I'm positive you can at least get to 45.Ridankulous said:quick question,
I have a biostar tz68a+ motherboard and a intel 2500k cpu
I'm trying to overclock to say 4.5ghz, but the cpu multiplier in the bios won't let me go past 41. I just updated the bios too and the same thing happens.
Any ideas what this could be about?
Rage like 150 FPS if recommended is anything to go by. 60+ should be a lock imo.Always-honest said:so with that "Excellent" 1010$ build, how ill i be able to play Rage and Battlefield 3?
Sounds..... niceHazaro said:Rage like 150 FPS if recommended is anything to go by. 60+ should be a lock imo.
BF3 in open 30+, 60+ possible in more closed spaces. Ultra + SSAO + 2xMSAA. Lower for more FPS.
Smokey said:I was mistaken, I had the fans on the radiator taking air in the case and pushing it out. I'm cool with the temps being in the 80s. It's when it hits 90s that I start freaking out. Also cleaned the filters on the 3 180mm fans. Were quiteeeee dirty.
I've also switched all 3 180mm fans to High from their default Low position. I can feel the cool air coming from the bottom of the case, and it's not all that loud. Cards are sitting idle at 39c and 35c. Played Witcher again @ 910mhz for a bit, max temps from Afterburner shows 85c on top card, 74c on bottom. I did change the orientation of one of the 120mm fans on the radiator, dunno if that's helping any.
I dunno guess I'll keep messing around. Will head to MC tomorrow and look for some better 120mm fans.
Ah ok. Thanks! I also have a few other quick questions if anyone could help me out. Using Real Temp, my CPU's temperature, idle, sits at about 40 C give or take. I have the installed the Coolermaster 212 and I was curious to see if that's normal. Should I be getting lower temps, or am I sitting at the right spot? If the temp is too high, is it possible that I installed the CPU cooler wrong? Does the amount of thermal paste matter? Any help is greatly appreciated!knitoe said:Those are what we refer to as auto overclocking tool / software. Generally, they offer lower speeds and use higher voltages. Thus, it's prefer to enter the settings manually. Either way you do it, as long as you keep the CPU under 75C and 1.35V, it's fairly safe. Most 2500K and 2600K will be able to hit 4.4-4.5GHz using 1.35 or less.
Unless it's totally off, which it's not, I wouldn't worry about idle temps. Instead, look at your load temps. Run Prime95 and see.Glassboy said:Ah ok. Thanks! I also have a few other quick questions if anyone could help me out. Using Real Temp, my CPU's temperature, idle, sits at about 40 C give or take. I have the installed the Coolermaster 212 and I was curious to see if that's normal. Should I be getting lower temps, or am I sitting at the right spot? If the temp is too high, is it possible that I installed the CPU cooler wrong? Does the amount of thermal paste matter? Any help is greatly appreciated!
I did run Prime95 after I did the simple change to 4.2ghz. After about 45 minutes, I think I hit a high of about 77 C. What do you think of that? Thanks again for all the help. It's badass that there are many people in this topic that are so helpful to newbies like myself.knitoe said:Unless it's totally off, which it's not, I wouldn't worry about idle temps. Instead, look at your load temps. Run Prime95 and see.
It's the Intel core i5 2500k, stock 3.3ghzAndyD said:What CPU is it? Normal varies by chip usually, but 40C seems reasonable if not a little high for idle.
You want to stay under 75C. 77C is high for only that speed. The auto overclocking tool is probably using too much voltage. Run Prime95 with HWmonitor to see what the max cpu voltage.Glassboy said:I did run Prime95 after I did the simple change to 4.2ghz. After about 45 minutes, I think I hit a high of about 77 C. What do you think of that? Thanks again for all the help. It's badass that there are many people in this topic that are so helpful to newbies like myself.
Did you enable Internal CPU PLL when trying to go >4.5GHz? Most recommend 1.35V. Personally, I would stay 1.30V or under for 24/7.XiaNaphryz said:Build went without a hitch. Been testing OC settings the past 2 days. Can't seem to find a stable setting over 4.5 GHz, at least without going over 1.35v in Vcore. I can get stable at 4.5 with 1.305v, max core temps of 61/62/65/66 C, CPU temp reading of 52 C.
Is 1.35v still the recommended safe limit for 24/7 OC?
knitoe said:Did you enable Internal CPU PLL when trying to go >4.5GHz? Most recommend 1.35V. Personally, I would stay 1.30V or under for 24/7.
Sound about right. 1.30V imo 1.25V if you can must it. 1.28V will probably net you 4.4Ghz fineXiaNaphryz said:Build went without a hitch. Been testing OC settings the past 2 days. Can't seem to find a stable setting over 4.5 GHz, at least without going over 1.35v in Vcore. I can get stable at 4.5 with 1.305v, max core temps of 61/62/65/66 C, CPU temp reading of 52 C.
Is 1.35v still the recommended safe limit for 24/7 OC?
I left PLL overvoltage on auto. I can get 4.6 GHz stable at around 1.365. Haven't tried to push past that yet when I'd expect to have t just set it to enabled.knitoe said:Did you enable Internal CPU PLL when trying to go >4.5GHz? Most recommend 1.35V. Personally, I would stay 1.30V or under for 24/7.
There was a huge thread posted by an ASUS overclocking expert here a while back ago that really ought to be sticked or somthing. in that thread he stated that ASUS had binned literally thousands of sandy bridge cpu's as far as voltage and clocks go here is what cam out of that thread
1. anything in the 1.4- 1.47 (with 75%LLC) range is fine for 24/7 use.
2. anything up to 1.52 is probably fine as well however past the 1.47 point return in clock speed are basically negligible which leads to points three and four
3. if you can get it to boot at a specific multi at 1.5 volts or less you can probably get it stable if you want conversely if it wont make it to the desktop at 1.5 volts you have hit your chips multi wall and that's all the farther it will go period.
4. If it's not stable (or really close) at 1.47 or less the amount of voltage that you need to get it stable won't be safe for 24/7 use because 1 you may degrade your chip and 2 you probably won't be able to keep the heat in check.
You nailed it, I was stable at 4.4 at 1.28. 4.3 was stable at 1.25 for me.Hazaro said:Sound about right. 1.30V imo 1.25V if you can must it. 1.28V will probably net you 4.4Ghz fine
XiaNaphryz said:Build went without a hitch. Been testing OC settings the past 2 days. Can't seem to find a stable setting over 4.5 GHz, at least without going over 1.35v in Vcore. I can get stable at 4.5 with 1.305v, max core temps of 61/62/65/66 C, CPU temp reading of 52 C.
Is 1.35v still the recommended safe limit for 24/7 OC?
I read that or something like that a while back. I just don't want to run my hardware at those levels. We went from 45nm to 32nm and people are running more volts through the chips. Doesn't sit well with me.XiaNaphryz said:I left PLL overvoltage on auto. I can get 4.6 GHz stable at around 1.365. Haven't tried to push past that yet when I'd expect to have t just set it to enabled.
Looking around, looks like most of the posts saying 1.35v were from back in the early part of the year. Then I found this recent post from about a week ago:
With how my chip seems to be performing, I'm guessing I'd be able to only get to around 4.8 at the 1.45 range assuming point 1 is accurate.
You nailed it, I was stable at 4.4 at 1.28. 4.3 was stable at 1.25 for me.
Granted, these are all based off just 60 min Prime95 tests. Still need to confirm a longer stress test for most of these.
TheExodu5 said:I'm pretty puzzled by this. You basically have one of the best air cooled cases on the market...the only case that really cools GPUs better is the HAF X (but is a pretty big downgrade, otherwise). It shouldn't matter that you have way more intakes then exhausts. The whole idea is that the intakes are creating a lot of positive pressure inside the case, which is going to force the air out anyways. Couple that with the fact that hot air rises, and you should have pretty great airflow.
If you have video card(s) that blows heat around inside the case, you better have good in - out airflow. With that case you don't, it only has 1 small exhaust fan.Smokey said:Yeah I dunno man. Maybe the Lightnings are too good for my case :shrug. Is my cable management that bad?
So, I used the easy oc tweaking (4.2ghz again) and I ran prime95 and HWmonitor and the max cpu voltage was 1.34, that was after about 15 minutes.knitoe said:You want to stay under 75C. 77C is high for only that speed. The auto overclocking tool is probably using too much voltage. Run Prime95 with HWmonitor to see what the max cpu voltage.
I just bought a das silent. It's far from silent, but has a great feel. Do not buy if you're looking for something quiet.TheExodu5 said:Alright. I'm in the market for a new keyboard.
Teetering back and forth in between the DAS Silent Professional and the Topre Realforce. Thoughts?
I'd like a fairly quiet keyboard. Good feel is important, of course.
My options right now are basically: MX browns, MX reds, or Topre Capacitives.
What is your room temp? How is your case airflow? You could try manually entering a lower CPU voltage.Glassboy said:So, I used the easy oc tweaking (4.2ghz again) and I ran prime95 and HWmonitor and the max cpu voltage was 1.34, that was after about 15 minutes.
Very likely too much for 4.2, you can likely achieve that under 1.25v.Glassboy said:So, I used the easy oc tweaking (4.2ghz again) and I ran prime95 and HWmonitor and the max cpu voltage was 1.34, that was after about 15 minutes.
Smokey said:Yeah I dunno man. Maybe the Lightnings are too good for my case :shrug. Is my cable management that bad?
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Room temp is pretty chilly, probably in the low 70s. Airflow in my case seems like it should be fine. I'm going to follow the guide listed in the OP and do all the manual settings. Tomorrow, I'm going to do that and double check cable management in my case to see if anything can be improved. Thanks for the help again. I figured the easy setting might be a little wonky but I wanted to give it a shot anyways. I'll let you know how things go tomorrow. Goodnight!knitoe said:What is your room temp? How is your case airflow? You could try manually entering a lower CPU voltage.
Yeah, that is what the overclocking guide in the OP also showed. I think it stated that 4.5 can be achieved with 1.25v~1.27v, so the 1.34v that was being used to achieve 4.2 was causing the CPU to heat up more than it should. Thanks for the help! Tomorrow, I will figure all this out. I have 2 weeks of vacation starting tomorrow, so I have plenty of time to mess around with the computer.XiaNaphryz said:Very likely too much for 4.2, you can likely achieve that under 1.25v.
If you want quiet just go for a $40/$80 air cooler imo. Get some nice Noctua/Low speed Yate Loon/Scythe Kama fans or something.mcrae said:hey guys, i have an antec 300 case, i want to get a water-cooling system because the fans are just too damn loud. water cooling would be significantly quieter right? just the video card and psu fans would be running?
what set up should i buy?
Hazaro said:If you want quiet just go for a $40/$80 air cooler imo. Get some nice Noctua/Low speed Yate Loon/Scythe Kama fans or something.
mcrae said:well the case has 3 5.25" and a 8" (i think those are the sizes) already, you're saying i should jsut replace them with a better brand?
HooYaH said:I think you meant 3x120mm and 1x140mm right? Yes, the brand listed by Hazaro are known to be quiet. Also what fan are you using for your CPU?
case and psu for $60.Smokey said:Yeah I dunno man. Maybe the Lightnings are too good for my case :shrug. Is my cable management that bad?
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GTA IV is pretty demanding and it really likes a quad core CPU. The CPU for almost everything is solid.Sarcasm said:I have a friend with a 9800 something nvidia card and he wants to upgrade to be able to play GTA4 and some other games,
what do you recommend? Has like an i3 CPU.
Does your motherboard have fan controller settings? What fan connections do you have? How about a $20 front panel fan controller so you can just turn some knobs?mcrae said:yes, those are the sizes. CPU is stock cooler which i know i could upgrade easily for 50 bucks, but i think watercooling might work better, even though i dont know much about it
if i dont turn all the fans on high when playing games, my room gets too hot. but if i dont turn them all the way low before i go to bed, or when watching certain movies, they're too loud. opening up the case and finding all 4 toggle switches twice a day is getting really annoying, which is why i was thinknig watercooling.. good enough for when the case heats up due to gaming, and good enough for reaaaally quiet when i want to go to bed.
*i leave my computer on when goign to bed either because a) im watching something before bed or b) i use some sort of youtube alarm clock to help wake myself up... so i dont feel like turning it off at night
Water cooling isn't going to be that much quieter than a good heatsink with a quiet fan. You still have noise from the pump and water going through the rad(s).mcrae said:yes, those are the sizes. CPU is stock cooler which i know i could upgrade easily for 50 bucks, but i think watercooling might work better, even though i dont know much about it
if i dont turn all the fans on high when playing games, my room gets too hot. but if i dont turn them all the way low before i go to bed, or when watching certain movies, they're too loud. opening up the case and finding all 4 toggle switches twice a day is getting really annoying, which is why i was thinknig watercooling.. good enough for when the case heats up due to gaming, and good enough for reaaaally quiet when i want to go to bed.
*i leave my computer on when goign to bed either because a) im watching something before bed or b) i use some sort of youtube alarm clock to help wake myself up... so i dont feel like turning it off at night
Mulligan said:Hey PCGAF!
I'm looking to overclock my gtx580 but have absolutely no idea on how as i've never overclocked before.. perhaps, if i feel confident enough after my 580 OC, i'll OC my CPU too. So are there any noob friendly GPU OC guides out there? a specific 580 OC guide would be even better.
Hazaro said:Does your motherboard have fan controller settings? What fan connections do you have? How about a $20 front panel fan controller so you can just turn some knobs?
A $40 heatsink would be fine, H70 or something like it isn't much better. Dedicated water setup is $150+.
n0n44m said:watercooling for noise without watercooling the videocard is pointless. Besides even then you'd need fan controllers and everything as well to keep it cool. I have a 180 fan/pump controller with a processor and software and remote and all that controls everything according to temperature
most sane people don't spend 180 on a fan controller so here's what you want to do
1. get a normal 20 fan controller (Scythe, Sunbeam, whatever) with the potentiometers to control your casefans
2. get a 212+ or another CPU cooler with PWM support, and have its speed controlled by the motherboards PWM speed control (assuming you have a somewhat recent motherboard)
3. Use MSI Afterburner to regulate the fan speed of the videocard (on idle).
what board is that?