"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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I'm about to try to install the Hyper 212 I bought for my i5 2500k. Got my surgical spirit to remove the thermal paste from the stock cooler. I should be ok with that (I hope). As for installing the new cooler, youtube videos will be my guide. Just one question for now: do I need to remove the motherboard from the case for this process? I'd rather not have to, purely because I'd have to write down where ever single wire goes in order to get everything back in the right place again.
 
Bungieware said:
I'm about to try to install the Hyper 212 I bought for my i5 2500k. Got my surgical spirit to remove the thermal paste from the stock cooler. I should be ok with that (I hope). As for installing the new cooler, youtube videos will be my guide. Just one question for now: do I need to remove the motherboard from the case for this process? I'd rather not have to, purely because I'd have to write down where ever single wire goes in order to get everything back in the right place again.
Click to expand...

You have to remove it, unless you have a cutout behind the motherboard that actually properly exposes the 4 CPU cooler pin holes.
 
Bungieware said:
I do not. Fuck. This is going to take a lot long than I envisaged.
Click to expand...

8 pin CPU cable
24 pin motherboard cable
I/O pins (those are the most annoying, but if you have an Asus motherboard the adapter makes it easy)
PCI-E video card cables

Not too bad, but it will add about 30 minutes to the installation time.

Also, as I installed the Hyper 212+ on a friend's PC last week, I found that the instructions were just awful compared to my Thermalright...that was the biggest annoyance.

What you want to do is this:


1) Unplug everything
2) Remove the motherboard
3) Use isopropyl alcohol or w/e + cotton swabs to clean the CPU
4) Put in the backplate
5) Thread the screws into the backplate (they need to be rotated properly to fit through the backplate, as they're not perfectly round)
6) Adjust the front bracket pins so that they're in the proper holes (see the installation manual)
7) Put thermal paste on the Hyper 212+. One small grain of rice in the middle of it, vertically, is fine (other guides suggest putting lines in between the heatpipe cracks, but this is overcomplicated and unecessary, IMO).
8) Seat the Hyper 212+ onto the CPU. Twist it left/right just a tiny bit to spread out the paste. Do not lift the Hyper 212+ or you'll introduce air bubble. Make sure no thermal paste is leaking out...that would mean you put too much on. If that happens, clean up and restart.
9) Carefully insert the front bracket without dislodging the Hyper 212+ Put in the pins and screw it down.
10) Install the motherboard.
11) Plug everything back in.
 
Are there still issues with Sandforce drives? Newegg has the 120Gig Vertex 3 on sale today for $179. That is a pretty sick deal and was thinking about grabbing another if the issues have been resolved.
 
TheExodu5 said:
8 pin CPU cable
24 pin motherboard cable
I/O pins (those are the most annoying, but if you have an Asus motherboard the adapter makes it easy)
PCI-E video card cables
Click to expand...

_51814888_gareth_bale1_huw.jpg


Not too bad, but it will add about 30 minutes to the installation time.

Also, as I installed the Hyper 212+ on a friend's PC last week, I found that the instructions were just awful compared to my Thermalright...that was the biggest annoyance.
Click to expand...

Well now I'm really looking forward to this.... I can't deal with it running as hot as it is now for any longer though. This evening, it will literally be do or die for my CPU.
 
TheExodu5 said:
I updated my post with general instructions now. That should help.
Click to expand...

Wow. Thanks. That will help me a lot. It's step 1 I'm not looking forward to, but I should be able to manage the rest. I've decided I'm going to write down a description of each wire, where it goes, and take a photo of each one on my phone before I start. It should help me learn as well.
 
FUCK, so I upgraded my graphics card in my pc to keep costs down (as opposed to building a new pc altogether), and I went with the gtx 560ti. I thought that was all I would need seeing as my 500W power supply should be more than ample to power everything.
I completely forgot it only has 1x6pin PCI-Express connector and the graphics card requires 2.

Am I screwed? Will I need to buy a new PSU as well?

I'm starting to think I should have just stayed with my HD4850 for a little while longer...
 
chrisisawesome said:
FUCK, so I upgraded my graphics card in my pc to keep costs down (as opposed to building a new pc altogether), and I went with the gtx 560ti. I thought that was all I would need seeing as my 500W power supply should be more than ample to power everything.
I completely forgot it only has 1x6pin PCI-Express connector and the graphics card requires 2.

Am I screwed? Will I need to buy a new PSU as well?

I'm starting to think I should have just stayed with my HD4850 for a little while longer...
Click to expand...

If you have two free 4 pin molex on your psu an adapter like this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812196870 will take care of you.

I'm actually surprised your card did not come with such an adapter in the box.
 
Gunmonkey36 said:
If you have two free 4 pin molex on your psu an adapter like this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812196870 will take care of you.

I'm actually surprised your card did not come with such an adapter in the box.
Click to expand...


Oh damn! Thanks so much! I actually have no idea if my card comes with that, it's more of a preemptive "oh fuck"

this is my card:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130651

This is my PSU (few years old)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo


But i heard those molex-to-6pin connectors werent "recommended" or at least i thought?

Also, for some reason I always ALWAYS have trouble connecting the molex connectors together, any tips lol?
 
chrisisawesome said:
Oh damn! Thanks so much! I actually have no idea if my card comes with that, it's more of a preemptive "oh fuck"

But i heard those molex-to-6pin connectors werent "recommended" or at least i thought?

Also, for some reason I always ALWAYS have trouble connecting the molex connectors together, any tips lol?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I wouldn't be freaking out yet. Your card should come with a two 4pin molex to 6pin pci express adapter in the box. So you should be fine.
 
Does anyone how I can get 3D Mark 11 to run on my computer? A couple of day ago it was running fine, but now whenever I try to start 3D Mark now, it doesn't start up at all. No prompts pop up at all, not even an error screen. Tried uninstalling and reinstalling it , but it still doesn't work.
 
The_Squirrel_Menace said:
Any new news about the nvidia 600 series?
Click to expand...

Think all we know is that both AMD and NVidia's new stuff won't be out until next year.

Also, awesome OP. I'm sure it's been said before. But, I came here at ask a couple questions, and found the answers in the OP. Well done.
 
Bungieware said:
Wow. Thanks. That will help me a lot. It's step 1 I'm not looking forward to, but I should be able to manage the rest. I've decided I'm going to write down a description of each wire, where it goes, and take a photo of each one on my phone before I start. It should help me learn as well.
Click to expand...
THIS video helped me during the installation. It's really easy if you look at that first.
 
TheExodu5 said:
3) Use isopropyl alcohol or w/e + cotton swabs to clean the CPU
Click to expand...
I just bought some stuff by Artic Silver they sell to clean and buffer the surfaces and it was like $10 and will last you forever. Plus it smells nice :)
 
AndyMoogle said:
THIS video helped me during the installation. It's really easy if you look at that first.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I used this to get an idea when I was installing my 212+. Only thing that sucked was finding out the orientation went the other direction (If this is N-S, mine is E-W) instead, heh. Just don't lift up the cooler at any point once you've applied the paste and made contact with the CPU, as Exodu5 mentioned!
 
Gvaz said:
I just bought some stuff by Artic Silver they sell to clean and buffer the surfaces and it was like $10 and will last you forever. Plus it smells nice :)
Click to expand...
Or steal the girlfriend/wifes nail polish remover.
 
AndyMoogle said:
THIS video helped me during the installation. It's really easy if you look at that first.
Click to expand...

I have that open ready for when I start. Cheers.

Conceptor said:
Yeah, I used this to get an idea when I was installing my 212+. Only thing that sucked was finding out the orientation went the other direction (If this is N-S, mine is E-W) instead, heh. Just don't lift up the cooler at any point once you've applied the paste and made contact with the CPU, as Exodu5 mentioned!
Click to expand...

Good tip. I'll make sure I don't.
 
So after the initial day or two of OC testing, and then a couple days of letting the PC run as it downloads stuff from Steam, I think my rig's pretty stable. I'm going to let it run Prime95 all day today as a final stress test.
 
I see a lot of people running stress tests, don't!.
If your system is not stable a good gaming session will soon let you know.
If it fails after running for 5-6 hours don't worry, the chances of you ever running your PC at that length of time 100% are extremely slim.
I used to have this fear that my PC had to pass intel burntest but then you get the mentality of build PC and game, stop worrying about other things.
 
Marco1 said:
I see a lot of people running stress tests, don't!.
Click to expand...
We're overclocking, we're trying to figure out if we're stable or not. And some of us do use our PCs for things other than games that require it to run for long periods of time with high CPU usage. I can easily use up all 8 threads of my 2600K as well as the 16 GB of RAM I have on a couple different encoding or render projects. :P
 
XiaNaphryz said:
So after the initial day or two of OC testing, and then a couple days of letting the PC run as it downloads stuff from Steam, I think my rig's pretty stable. I'm going to let it run Prime95 all day today as a final stress test.
Click to expand...

That's great man. Just out of curiosity, What was CPU and mobo are yo using? and What speed did you get it up to?
 
I've posted a similar question before, but I only found one reply, and I've got a slightly different question this time.

I'm replacing a broken PC (Q6600, 6gb RAM, HD 4870 X2 -- motherboard is dead, as is my HDD), and I'm upgrading it to the following specs:

i5 2500k
8gb DDR3
Asus P8Z68-V PRO Z68 motherboard
2tb Samsung HDD
I'll be salvaging my old case and PSU (1000W -- I was a bit overzealous with this, thinking the 4870X2 would murder my older 650W one).

However, I'm unsure on the graphics card. I've got 3 choices:

1) Sell the 4870 X2 and buy a GTX 570 and use that for the next 18 months or so, when I'll upgrade the GPU again.
2) Keep my HD 4870 X2 for a few months, until the next generation cards are out, and then jump in (as a bonus, I could use the money saved now to slap an SSD in there, but I'm only considering that option right now).
3) Sell the 4870 X2 and buy a GTX 560 Ti, then upgrade the GPU again next year and either sell the 560 Ti or use it as a PhysX slave (is this even a good idea?).

Obviously 3 is the most expensive, but if I can make a PhysX slave out of the redundant 560 Ti, this'll have the best long-term rewards.

What do you guys suggest?
 
Is an intel core i3 2100 good for a budget build (none or very little basic gaming, general usage, browsing, office)?

Or is there a better alternative (amd)? Looking for the fastest cpu I can get for sub £100.
 
Omikaru said:
I've posted a similar question before, but I only find one reply, and I've got a slightly different question this time.

I'm replacing a broken PC (Q6600, 6gb RAM, HD 4870 X2 -- motherboard is dead, as is my HDD), and I'm upgrading it to the following specs:

i5 2500k
8gb DDR3
Asus P8Z68-V PRO Z68 motherboard
2tb Samsung HDD
I'll be salvaging my old case and PSU (1000W -- I was a bit overzealous with this, thinking the 4870X2 would murder my older 650W one).

However, I'm unsure on the graphics card. I've got 3 choices:

1) Sell the 4870 X2 and buy a GTX 570 and use that for the next 18 months or so, when I'll upgrade the GPU again.
2) Keep my HD 4870 X2 for a few months, until the next generation cards are out, and then jump in (as a bonus, I could use the money saved now to slap an SSD in there, but I'm only considering that option right now).
3) Sell the 4870 X2 and buy a GTX 560 Ti, then upgrade the GPU again next year and either sell the 560 Ti or use it as a PhysX slave (is this even a good idea?).

Obviously 3 is the most expensive, but if I can make a PhysX slave out of the redundant 560 Ti, this'll have the best long-term rewards.

What do you guys suggest?
Click to expand...


3.

If you've been using a 4870x2 this long, a 560Ti could last you just as long and lead you into the next gen cards if you wanted. A 560Ti would pair very nicely with your 2500k.
 
Smokey said:
3.

If you've been using a 4870x2 this long, a 560Ti could last you just as long and lead you into the next gen cards if you wanted. A 560Ti would pair very nicely with your 2500k.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Leaning towards that option now.

Someone else suggested this to me a few weeks ago, but I figured I'd get a few more opinions.

So when nVidia release the new GPUs next year, would I be better off selling the 560Ti, or making a PhysX slave out of it, or should I just wait and see for now?
 
Omikaru said:
I've posted a similar question before, but I only found one reply, and I've got a slightly different question this time.

I'm replacing a broken PC (Q6600, 6gb RAM, HD 4870 X2 -- motherboard is dead, as is my HDD), and I'm upgrading it to the following specs:

i5 2500k
8gb DDR3
Asus P8Z68-V PRO Z68 motherboard
2tb Samsung HDD
I'll be salvaging my old case and PSU (1000W -- I was a bit overzealous with this, thinking the 4870X2 would murder my older 650W one).

However, I'm unsure on the graphics card. I've got 3 choices:

1) Sell the 4870 X2 and buy a GTX 570 and use that for the next 18 months or so, when I'll upgrade the GPU again.
2) Keep my HD 4870 X2 for a few months, until the next generation cards are out, and then jump in (as a bonus, I could use the money saved now to slap an SSD in there, but I'm only considering that option right now).
3) Sell the 4870 X2 and buy a GTX 560 Ti, then upgrade the GPU again next year and either sell the 560 Ti or use it as a PhysX slave (is this even a good idea?).

Obviously 3 is the most expensive, but if I can make a PhysX slave out of the redundant 560 Ti, this'll have the best long-term rewards.

What do you guys suggest?
Click to expand...

I would do 2. Option 3 would mean you're buying a 560 Ti now and then upgrading to a 600 series? I personally thinks it's silly to upgrade just a single generation, so unless you're waiting till 700 series or beyond it's not going to be such a massive jump.

Besides, an SSD is one of the most amazing upgrades you can get.
 
Option 2 he will be waiting longer than a few months for the next gen of cards. I'd guess the earliest would be March, end of the 1st quarter. The 4000 series AMD card will be a nice bottleneck in his machine. I do like the thought about the SSD though. They are amazing, but for games he difference is small. You could still get a SSD if you really wanted by just saving up here and there. I'm assuming the 600 series will be a nice jump from the 500 series. You could probably run PhysX on the same card and be ok.

Option 3 he gets the 560Ti and just holds onto it for awhile. You could always sell it, but as I mentioned before if you stuck with a 4870 x2 for this long I'm sure you could get the same mileage out of a 560.

I guess it depends on your tolerence. What resolution are you going to be playing at?
 
I'll be playing in 1080p for the foreseeable future, since (as much as I'd like to go higher) I can't afford a new monitor right now.

If everything goes to plan, I'll be keeping this PC for about 3 years before I move to Japan, so the original idea was:

- Buy parts now.
- Upgrade GPU and RAM in about 18 months.
- Sell it on when I move abroad.

Similar to what I did with my current system, where I started University with the original build (I forget the GPU, it was a mid-rage nVidia at around November 2007), upgraded to a 4870 X2 about 14-15 months later (I think), and have used the same system from then until two weeks ago, when I started getting the click of death on my HDD and my motherboard went kaput.

The only game I'll be playing that looks like it'll put it through its paces this year is The Witcher 2 (my current system struggles with it on High, and I wasn't too happy with the visuals on Normal), but I am looking for a GPU that'll last 18 months or so before I properly upgrade. I'm not sure the 560 Ti can manage that, which is why I'm leaning towards treating it more as a stopgap than as a part of my final config. But if some of you guys think I can deal with it for 18 months or so, I'll just do that instead.
 
XiaNaphryz said:
We're overclocking, we're trying to figure out if we're stable or not. And some of us do use our PCs for things other than games that require it to run for long periods of time with high CPU usage. I can easily use up all 8 threads of my 2600K as well as the 16 GB of RAM I have on a couple different encoding or render projects. :P
Click to expand...
NP, good luck.
Also if anyone is looking to buy a high end CPU watercooling system then please PM me.
I live in the UK.
Parts are: Danger Den monsoon reservoir, black ice radiator, heatkiller 3.0 nickel with 1155 backplate etc.
 
Ok. Thermal paste time. Following the TheExodu5's instuctions (which have been very helpful indeed) he said use a rice grain size amount of paste. But the guy in this video uses quite a bit more:

8aHw2.jpg


Obviously neither is incorrect, but I really want to get the amount perfect so I leave as much room for error (from my poor technique) as possible. So, how much paste? Also, does it matter which way round the heat sink is? By this I mean if you're looking top down, does it matter which way the Cool Master logo is facing assuming I only rotate it 180 degrees...?
 
Bungieware said:
Ok. Thermal paste time. Following the TheExodu5's instuctions (which have been very helpful indeed) he said use a rice grain size amount of paste. But the guy in this video uses quite a bit more:


Obviously neither is incorrect, but I really want to get the amount perfect so I leave as much room for error (from my poor technique) as possible. So, how much paste? Also, does it matter which way round the heat sink is? By this I mean if you're looking top down, does it matter which way the Cool Master logo is facing assuming I only rotate it 180 degrees...?
Click to expand...
The image amount looks about right also orientate your heatsink so that the fans can push the air through the fins and out the back through the exhaust fan.
Look here to see what I mean:
http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6603
Also ensure the fans are fitted correctly, look for the arrows on the side to show direction of airflow.
 
Add a pea size amount or smaller. Like the size of your pinky nail dead center. You don't have to have it spread covering the whole die, but you can if you want (plop some down, smooth it out with a credit card very thinly). Really as long as you don't get the goop on the other components and as long as it's on the flat surface of the CPU you're okay. Don't worry too much about the Hyper 212+ sliding around as you clamp it down (I found it really fucking hard, simply because I thought I was going to break my mobo) but try to not let it do so.
 
I'd use a bit less paste shown in that screencap.

Don't spread it...you introduce the risk of having air bubbles as you seat the cooler. Just pushing the cooler down onto the CPU will spread it out for you.
 
That video is great and just shows how little thermal paste you need to put on to get good coverage. You don't actually need to cover the whole CPU heatspreader since the heat is mostly centered. The vertical line gives perfect coverage.

The line method shown is what I'm talking about, though usually the paste squeezes out a little thicker for me (at least the MX-4 and Hyper 212+ paste do) so it ends up looking closer to a grain of rice.
 
Bungieware said:
Thanks for all the info lads. That last video was really good as well. I'm as ready as I'll ever be so I'm just going to go for it...
Click to expand...
That's all it comes down to, going for it!
Take your time, you're not doing brain surgery although sometimes it feels like it.
 
TheExodu5 said:
That video is great and just shows how little thermal paste you need to put on to get good coverage. You don't actually need to cover the whole CPU heatspreader since the heat is mostly centered. The vertical line gives perfect coverage.

The line method shown is what I'm talking about, though usually the paste squeezes out a little thicker for me (at least the MX-4 and Hyper 212+ paste do) so it ends up looking closer to a grain of rice.
Click to expand...

Yeah that video is silicone thermal paste, newer pastes (like MX-4 and Hyper212 Paste) will spread more and therefore need less paste.

Bungieware said:
Thanks for all the info lads. That last video was really good as well. I'm as ready as I'll ever be so I'm just going to go for it...
Click to expand...

Heres the MX-2 version which better demonstrates how newer pastes will spread.

Also see this video for a full demonstration. Remember less is more!
 
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