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[JaseC]

Thanks for the advice; I'll do that. Also, 60°C is an OK temperature for the CPU under load, right? That's what I'm getting at 4.4GHz; idle temperature is about 36-36°C.

60 is fine, yes.

 

[Wichu]

Currently testing 4.3GHz at 1.28V. Hopefully this will work. CPU temperatures are 50-55°C.

EDIT: 4.4GHz was a 1.33V, not 1.34.

 

[·feist·]

SandForce Identifies Firmware Bug Causing BSOD Issue, Fix Available Today
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4973/...re-bug-causing-bsod-issue-fix-available-today

After months of end user complaints, SandForce has finally duplicated, verified and provided a fix for the infamous BSOD/disconnect issue that affected SF-2200 based SSDs. The root cause is a bug in the firmware, although specifics are pretty slim. The typically sparse release notes just state a rare condition resulting in a blue screen error has now been addressed. OCZ has been testing the fix in-house for the past three weeks and now believes it is fit for public release. SandForce is simultaneously releasing the firmware to its partners, so if you have non-OCZ drives you should contact your drive manufacturer for an availability update.

The new firmware is version 2.15 for OCZ drives and 3.3.2 for drives that use SF's standard numbering system. It's important to note that the fix here is for the bug that SF discovered and may not solve all pending issues. Given the extremely long discovery and fix time for this issue I still believe the best policy towards SandForce drives is one of caution, at least until we start hearing from users as to whether or not this fix worked (and didn't create any new issues).

Update: OCZ sent along its official statement -

OCZ is pleased to announce that the cause of a BSOD issue experienced by some SF-2000-based drive owners has been identified by OCZ and SandForce. A new firmware update which directly addresses this BSOD occurrence related to SF-2000 based SSDs is available here. All newly manufactured OCZ SF-2000 based SSDs will feature the new 2.15 firmware revision (which is based on SandForce firmware version 3.3.2.) We highly recommend that any customers that have experienced the BSOD issue update their firmware to 2.15.

We sincerely appreciate the support from our customers, and if any customers have any questions or require additional support please do not hesitate to contact a customer service representative and we will be happy to address any questions or concerns.​

Source: OCZ

SandForce Driven SSDs
http://www.sandforce.com/index.php?id=182

2.15 is now live...use this thread for questions and all discussion.
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/f...-this-thread-for-questions-and-all-discussion.

 

[XiaNaphryz]

SandForce Identifies Firmware Bug Causing BSOD Issue, Fix Available Today
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4973/...re-bug-causing-bsod-issue-fix-available-today

SandForce Driven SSDs
http://www.sandforce.com/index.php?id=182

2.15 is now live...use this thread for questions and all discussion.
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/f...-this-thread-for-questions-and-all-discussion.

No issues with my Force GT so far. Good to know a firmware update will be coming just in case though once Corsair posts something.

 

[Manp]

SandForce Identifies Firmware Bug Causing BSOD Issue, Fix Available Today
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4973/...re-bug-causing-bsod-issue-fix-available-today

SandForce Driven SSDs
http://www.sandforce.com/index.php?id=182

2.15 is now live...use this thread for questions and all discussion.
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/f...-this-thread-for-questions-and-all-discussion.

bububut, but their test systems are stable, it's the user error! no wait maybe the sata cable... no it's the intel sata driver.

lol, unsurprisingly it was their stupid firmware

 

[Hazaro]

If the ForceGT is stable now that will likely replace the M4 as soon as I am confident to recommend it. That drive is stupid fast.

 

[red731]

Hello guys,

I am not following pc hardware since Ive turned console, but could you tell me if the price is appropriate for the hardware on the paper?

I think most stuff doesnt need translation.

Price he is wanting for it is 834.45USD.

IMAGE LINK ON IMGUR WITH SPECIFICATIONS

 

[evil solrac v3.0]

with that fix I will finally test the RAID waters with SSD...

 

[Hazaro]

Hello guys,

I am not following pc hardware since Ive turned console, but could you tell me if the price is appropriate for the hardware on the paper?

I think most stuff doesnt need translation.

Price he is wanting for it is 834.45USD.

IMAGE LINK ON IMGUR WITH SPECIFICATIONS

It is the old i7 so it should be cheaper than building new (Which it isn't).

If it has a monitor with it that is a decent deal.

620W+200W makes no sense unless he is saying an HX620W can do 800W overloaded which is sort of half true.

 

[red731]

It is the old i7 so it should be cheaper than building new (Which it isn't).

If it has a monitor with it that is a decent deal.

620W+200W makes no sense unless he is saying an HX620W can do 800W overloaded which is sort of half true.

It hasnt have monitor and the he told me about the wattage, that it will sorta "overclock" it self when in ?gaming mode?.
Like what are intel processors doing with tuebo mode on laptops.

 

[Hazaro]

It hasnt have monitor and the he told me about the wattage, that it will sorta "overclock" it self when in ?gaming mode?.
Like what are intel processors doing with tuebo mode on laptops.

I have never heard of that. The PSU (if 620W) is an HX620W and was the first PSU Corsair released. It's based on the Seasonic design and can probably be overdrawn to some degree, but it is not a 820W by any means.

For an i7 860 system the pricing is too high compared to a new i5 2500K system in USD pricing. If components cost similar where you are I'd get a new PC instead.

 

[robor]

GAF, here is my setup:

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K
GPU: ATi 6970 2GB
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8Z68-V LE
RAM DDR3:Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (2x4GB) Vengeance DDR3
SSD: Intel 320 Series
CASE: BitFenix Shinobi Case with Window
OPTICAL DRIVE: ASUS DRW-24B3ST 24X DVDRW Drive
COOLER: CoolerMaster Hyper 612 PWM CPU Cooler
SOUND CARD: ASUS Xonar Essence STX
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 800W

Does anyone see any problems? I'm pretty confident it'll be fine but I thought I'd get it certified by the master race before I make the purchase. I'm planning to get an External HDD a little later, I'm thinking Western Digital.

Cheers.

 

[Hazaro]

Looks good.

I'm not a fan of the 6970. I'd rather take a GTX 570 at that price point, or drop down to a 2GB 6950. If you want AMD and something faster than a 6950 that is your only option though

 

[red731]

I have never heard of that. The PSU (if 620W) is an HX620W and was the first PSU Corsair released. It's based on the Seasonic design and can probably be overdrawn to some degree, but it is not a 820W by any means.

For an i7 860 system the pricing is too high compared to a new i5 2500K system in USD pricing. If components cost similar where you are I'd get a new PC instead.

Ok and thank you. I build my PC before, so I will check reviews, pricing and compatibilty of hardware and put something better, more expensive, together.

 

[Kintaro]

I call upon my PC brothers and sisters for help.

I'm mulling over picking up GTX 570. Reasoning is a bit weird but its Physx. I like the effect (especially in the batman games), however I fully realize that not many games use it or will use it. That being said, my other option is to pick up another 6950 2GB (currently have one) and Crossfire that badboy for increased performance (my mobo only does Crossfire, not SLI) and still pay less.

I'm leaning towards going the crossfire route but wanted some extra opinions.

 

[Hazaro]

Any reason you can't SLi 560Ti / GTX 570 after selling the 6950?

I'd just upgrade to a 580 if that is what you are looking for. I might drop to a 580 from xfire 6950's my self.

 

[Corky]

Any reason you can't SLi 560Ti / GTX 570 after selling the 6950?

I'd just upgrade to a 580 if that is what you are looking for. I might drop to a 580 from xfire 6950's my self.

If I read him right then his mobo doesn't support SLI, so I'd echo your suggestion of getting a 580.

 

[Hazaro]

If I read him right then his mobo doesn't support SLI, so I'd echo your suggestion of getting a 580.

Shoot, I read his post and my mind didn't even register that part.

Up to him to decide 580 or xFire 6950 then. I don't think I need the GPU power myself tbh.
I don't really care for PhysX at all, but that was when I had an nVidia card.

 

[·feist·]

If the ForceGT is stable now that will likely replace the M4 as soon as I am confident to recommend it. That drive is stupid fast.

As much as I like G. Skill, and some others, the Force GT is likely the only SF 2000 SSD I'd buy, largely due to Corsair's customer service.

I call upon my PC brothers and sisters for help.

I'm mulling over picking up GTX 570. Reasoning is a bit weird but its Physx. I like the effect (especially in the batman games), however I fully realize that not many games use it or will use it. That being said, my other option is to pick up another 6950 2GB (currently have one) and Crossfire that badboy for increased performance (my mobo only does Crossfire, not SLI) and still pay less.

I'm leaning towards going the crossfire route but wanted some extra opinions.

Two 6950s are a good deal faster than a 570. Even when Crossfire doesn't work, you aren't that far off with a single card active. If you aren't that familiar with multi-GPU setups, mkenyon's Intro to dual cards: SLI & Crossfire from the OP should help.

If the single 6950 is running most of your titles well enough, you may want to hold off for a few more months, to see what Nvidia and AMD have lined up with the next run of cards.


*Did mkenyon get perma'd? Thought he was just banned for a short period, or something.

GAF, here is my setup:

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K
GPU: ATi 6970 2GB
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8Z68-V LE
RAM DDR3:Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (2x4GB) Vengeance DDR3
SSD: Intel 320 Series
CASE: BitFenix Shinobi Case with Window
OPTICAL DRIVE: ASUS DRW-24B3ST 24X DVDRW Drive
COOLER: CoolerMaster Hyper 612 PWM CPU Cooler
SOUND CARD: ASUS Xonar Essence STX
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 800W

Does anyone see any problems? I'm pretty confident it'll be fine but I thought I'd get it certified by the master race before I make the purchase. I'm planning to get an External HDD a little later, I'm thinking Western Digital.

Cheers.

Between performance, quietness, and price, the Thermalright HR-02 Macho outperforms just about everything in its class. Well worth the $5-10 over a Cooler Master Hyper 212+/Hyper 212 Evo, and outpaces the Cooler Master 612 S/612 PWM while costing $10 less. There are some select motherboard compatibility issues, but that's rare, and I believe most are listed on their site. The 612 S and 612 PWM don't seem to move the game on much from HSFs like Scythe's Mugen 2/3, and until Cooler Master reduces the price, they're hard to recommend. At ~$50, you may as well opt for a Megahalems/TRUE/Ven X, or consider an Antec 620/Corsair H60.


Best overall budget coolers (somewhat in order):

$40 - Thermalright HR-02 Macho

$40 - Scythe Mugen 2/Mugen 3

$40 - Zalman CNPS10X Performa

$40 - Corsair A70

$35 - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo vs Hyper 212 Plus comparison. If space is at a premium, the Hyper 212 series, and A70 (minus one of its fans), are the smallest of the bunch.

Thermalright's True Spirit 120 is also worth a look, though the True Spirit 140 is arguably a better buy. The A70 is great, and outperforms a Hyper 212, but it's noisier than some of the other choices. The Prolimatech Panther isn't widely available yet, and AFAIK, pricing for most regions hasn't been released. It's a few degrees behind the Megahalems. Enermax has a few new 120mm models in the ~$30-50 range that may be good. Sunbeam also has some solid models in that price bracket, but customer service and other issues make it hard to fully recommend them. Apart from those, you have some other choices from companies like BeQuiet!, Thermolab, Deepcool and others, but they generally aren't as readily available in most regions.


For anyone reading this, and looking to buy a HSF right now, these deals are definitely worth looking into before they expire:

$19 - Corsair A70 after rebate
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181011&Tpk=Corsair A70

$25 - Zalman CNPS10X Performa after rebate
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118059&Tpk=Zalman CNPS10X Performa

$23 - Cooler Master Hyper 212+
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=41337&vpn=RR-B10-212P-G1&manufacture=COOLERMASTER&promoid=1339

$26 - Cooler Master Hyper 212+
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

 

[robor]

Looks good.

I'm not a fan of the 6970. I'd rather take a GTX 570 at that price point, or drop down to a 2GB 6950. If you want AMD and something faster than a 6950 that is your only option though

I just read a thorough and glowing review over at Anandtech's website. Seems like I might jump ship and get your suggested card instead.

Sweet!

Between performance, quietness, and price, the Thermalright HR-02 Macho outperforms just about everything in its class.

I just read an awesome review on this cooler! Wow thanks man!

 

[robor]

.

 

[Wichu]

Looks like I'll have to push it up to 1.3V for 4.3GHz... 1.29V crashed after just over an hour of Prime95; hopefully 1.3V will be fine.

 

[1-D_FTW]

How terrible is the Cooler Master Hyper N520 CPU Cooler:

http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4434989&CatId=493

Thinking about stopping at CompUSA and seeing if I can get in on the i72600 for 219.99 deal. Problems are twofold: 1) It's bait-and-switch and not actually honored at most stores 2.) Requires the purchase of another piece of computer hardware. Figured a CPU cooler would be the easiest thing to add without getting gouged.

 

[TheExodu5]

How terrible is the Cooler Master Hyper N520 CPU Cooler:

http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4434989&CatId=493

Thinking about stopping at CompUSA and seeing if I can get in on the i72600 for 219.99 deal. Problems are twofold: 1) It's bait-and-switch and not actually honored at most stores 2.) Requires the purchase of another piece of computer hardware. Figured a CPU cooler would be the easiest thing to add without getting gouged.

No reason to get the 520 over the 212 Plus or Evo unless your case is small.

 

[AndyMoogle]

Yeah, pretty much. I'd say for most games at 1080p / high settings, your gpu will bottleneck you (long) before your cpu does. If you do a lot of cpu-intensive stuff, or are planning to upgrade the gpu as well, then sure, go nuts.

Battlefield 3 beta cpu scaling (spoiler: there isn't much): http://www.techspot.com/review/448-battlefield-3-beta-performance/page7.html

As for SWTOR, your cpu can easily run WoW >60fps, and I doubt it'll be much more demanding than that.

There was barely any destruction on Operation Metro though. Only 32 players as well.

 

[chrisisawesome]

Should I have gotten a 6950 1gb instead of the GTX 560Ti? The GTX came with free batman but other than that the net price was the same

 

[Cyrillus]

I bought a Panasonic TC-P42ST30 last week, and I was a little miffed to find out that the 6870 I have had 2 x DVI and 2 x displayport connections on it. I currently have 2 x 23" monitors hooked up to it, using both DVI ports. I purchased a displayport to HDMI adapter from Monoprice and went to hook it up today only to find that I cannot enable all 3 displays at the same time. A little Google-fu reveals that I need an active displayport adapter, which I don't have. However, the only active displayport adapters I can find are for DVI, which isn't really what I need. So, does anyone here know of a reputable vendor that sells an active displayport to hdmi adapter? If not, am I forced to use a displayport to DVI adapter, and then a DVI to hdmi adapter? This is possible, I suppose, but is annoying because it will not push audio over that connection (right?).

Bumping this to see if anyone has a solution.

 

[gokieks]

Bumping this to see if anyone has a solution.

Can't you just use a DP-DVI adapter for one of your monitors and then a DVI-HDMI adapter for the TV?

 

[dwebo]

Can't you just use a DP-DVI adapter for one of your monitors and then a DVI-HDMI adapter for the TV?

Active dp-dvi adapter, then just use his monoprice dp-hdmi adapter, which should then work.

Going by this page, http://support.amd.com/us/eyefinity/Pages/eyefinity-dongles.aspx, that would free up one of his two allotted "legacy" connections.

 

[Hazaro]

Between performance, quietness, and price, the Thermalright HR-02 Macho outperforms just about everything in its class. Well worth the $5-10 over a Cooler Master Hyper 212+/Hyper 212 Evo, and outpaces the Cooler Master 612 S/612 PWM while costing $10 less. There are some select motherboard compatibility issues, but that's rare, and I believe most are listed on their site. The 612 S and 612 PWM don't seem to move the game on much from HSFs like Scythe's Mugen 2/3, and until Cooler Master reduces the price, they're hard to recommend. At ~$50, you may as well opt for a Megahalems/TRUE/Ven X, or consider an Antec 620/Corsair H60.


Best overall budget coolers (somewhat in order):

$40 - Thermalright HR-02 Macho

$40 - Scythe Mugen 2/Mugen 3

$40 - Zalman CNPS10X Performa

$40 - Corsair A70

$35 - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo vs Hyper 212 Plus comparison. If space is at a premium, the Hyper 212 series, and A70 (minus one of its fans), are the smallest of the bunch.

Thermalright's True Spirit 120 is also worth a look, though the True Spirit 140 is arguably a better buy. The A70 is great, and outperforms a Hyper 212, but it's noisier than some of the other choices. The Prolimatech Panther isn't widely available yet, and AFAIK, pricing for most regions hasn't been released. It's a few degrees behind the Megahalems. Enermax has a few new 120mm models in the ~$30-50 range that may be good. Sunbeam also has some solid models in that price bracket, but customer service and other issues make it hard to fully recommend them. Apart from those, you have some other choices from companies like BeQuiet!, Thermolab, Deepcool and others, but they generally aren't as readily available in most regions.


For anyone reading this, and looking to buy a HSF right now, these deals are definitely worth looking into before they expire:

$19 - Corsair A70 after rebate
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181011&Tpk=Corsair A70

$25 - Zalman CNPS10X Performa after rebate
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118059&Tpk=Zalman CNPS10X Performa

$23 - Cooler Master Hyper 212+
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=41337&vpn=RR-B10-212P-G1&manufacture=COOLERMASTER&promoid=1339

$26 - Cooler Master Hyper 212+
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

The Macho is amazing, but only 1 place stocks it right now..
Once they figure out supply for sure it is going to be recommended.

 

[()_listerfeend_()]

Everything except my case arrived today! I got a Crucial 64GB SSD in the New Egg deal, should I hook it up to my current PC and update the firmware?

 

[Kintaro]

Two 6950s are a good deal faster than a 570. Even when Crossfire doesn't work, you aren't that far off with a single card active. If you aren't that familiar with multi-GPU setups, mkenyon's Intro to dual cards: SLI & Crossfire from the OP should help.

Hmmm, going by this, Crossfire may not be for me. Then again, the 580 suggestions hurt my wallet ($450+ at newegg). lol

 

[keyrat]

Hey guys, I've got an i5 650 @ 3.2ghz and 4gb of ram. I want to buy a GTX 570 to play some cool new games. Specifically I'd like to run BF3 at 60fps with enough effects to make the console version look like crap in comparison. I'll be playing on a 720p TV so super high res isn't everything.

Would you say this card is a good idea considering I don't want to buy a new rig right now?

 

[Corky]

Everything except my case arrived today!

You know what to do...

 

[LordCanti]

Hey guys, I've got an i5 650 @ 3.2ghz and 4gb of ram. I want to buy a GTX 570 to play some cool new games. Specifically I'd like to run BF3 at 60fps with enough effects to make the console version look like crap in comparison. I'll be playing on a 720p TV so super high res isn't everything.

Would you say this card is a good idea considering I don't want to buy a new rig right now?

I wouldn't buy a $300 video card to support 720p. I don't have a chart showing 720p framerates on current gen cards/games, but I don't think you'd see a ton of difference between a GTX 460 (around $100 on sale) and a GTX 570.

 

[Cyrillus]

Active dp-dvi adapter, then just use his monoprice dp-hdmi adapter, which should then work.

Going by this page, http://support.amd.com/us/eyefinity/Pages/eyefinity-dongles.aspx, that would free up one of his two allotted "legacy" connections.

This is it, thanks. I guess I was misunderstanding and thought I needed the hdmi on an active adapter regardless. I'll pick up an active displayport -> dvi dongle, thanks!

 

[TheExodu5]

I wouldn't buy a $300 video card to support 720p. I don't have a chart showing 720p framerates on current gen cards/games, but I don't think you'd see a ton of difference between a GTX 460 (around $100 on sale) and a GTX 570.

In BF3 he certainly would.

 

[Zane]

GAF, here is my setup:

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K
GPU: ATi 6970 2GB
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8Z68-V LE
RAM DDR3:Corsair CML8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (2x4GB) Vengeance DDR3
SSD: Intel 320 Series
CASE: BitFenix Shinobi Case with Window
OPTICAL DRIVE: ASUS DRW-24B3ST 24X DVDRW Drive
COOLER: CoolerMaster Hyper 612 PWM CPU Cooler
SOUND CARD: ASUS Xonar Essence STX
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 800W

Does anyone see any problems? I'm pretty confident it'll be fine but I thought I'd get it certified by the master race before I make the purchase. I'm planning to get an External HDD a little later, I'm thinking Western Digital.

Cheers.

If this is for gaming, you will see zero improvement going from an i5 2500k to an i7 2600k. Pretty much the only difference is hyperthreading, which only helps in applications that can use it (so uh, not games).

You will also see no improvement between 1333 RAM and 1600 RAM. Even if there's only a difference of $5, go with the cheaper RAM.

Lastly, I would not recommend the LE version of those motherboards. I haven't used them myself, but I hear they use lower quality components. The vanilla version of that board, however, is great.

 

[Flame Lord]

SandForce Identifies Firmware Bug Causing BSOD Issue, Fix Available Today
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4973/...re-bug-causing-bsod-issue-fix-available-today

SandForce Driven SSDs
http://www.sandforce.com/index.php?id=182

2.15 is now live...use this thread for questions and all discussion.
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/f...-this-thread-for-questions-and-all-discussion.

i already bought the M4 but haven't opened it, would it be worth it to send it back? The sandforce SSDs I have seen have been way cheaper than what I paid for the M4 but is they are supposedly fixed now it seems like it would be a much better deal.

 

[Skilletor]

PC Gaf, can somebody explain the different AAs to me? 16 x QQ AA or whatever.

I read somewhere that the higher resolution, the less AA needed. Is that true? Is 4x AA @ 1080p pretty good?

It's all so confusing.

 

[scogoth]

PC Gaf, can somebody explain the different AAs to me? 16 x QQ AA or whatever.

I read somewhere that the higher resolution, the less AA needed. Is that true? Is 4x AA @ 1080p pretty good?

It's all so confusing.

AA is anti aliasing which reduces jagged edges on pictures. There are many different methods that graphics card manufacturers and game developers use to achieve AA. Some are better then others and all have different effects on workload. Read http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/anti-aliasing-nvidia-geforce-amd-radeon,2868.html to get an idea of how AA works, whats the difference and the performance effects.

4x MSAA at 1080p is more then sufficient. 16x QQAA is actually 16x CSAA which is actually 8x MSAA + 8 coverage samples.

 

[Gvaz]

Increasing the resolution reduces the visibility of jaggies naturally, but it takes a lot more memory and power to display that high. Generally, it's cheaper to display a low resolution and put AA on it, though it'll require more than 2x AA at 720p to iron out the jaggies than at 1080p (which 2x is fine)

 

[scogoth]

Increasing the resolution reduces the visibility of jaggies naturally, but it takes a lot more memory and power to display that high. Generally, it's cheaper to display a low resolution and put AA on it, though it'll require more than 2x AA at 720p to iron out the jaggies than at 1080p (which 2x is fine)

No true because a 1280x720 at 2xAA will render at 2560x1440 before sampling down to 1280x720 then upsampling to 1080p to display the final output. 1080p at 0xAA will render at 1920x1080 and directly display the output. Now yes thats assuming Full scene AA but with MSAA the workload would probably work out to be the same but picture quality at 1920x1080 0xAA will be better then 1280x720 2xAA

 

[Skilletor]

Ah, see I didn't know any of this. I was just putting it at 1920 x 1080 and turning the AA all the way up. lol.

 

[LordCanti]

In BF3 he certainly would.

Do we know this for sure? Almost no one uses 720p, so it's hard to find benchmarks.

 

[iSurvivedTheOutage]

Newegg has the 2X4GB Gskill ripjaws XL back on sale for 39.99 on shellshocker... plus a free 4gb micro sd card with it..

 

[scogoth]

Ah, see I didn't know any of this. I was just putting it at 1920 x 1080 and turning the AA all the way up. lol.

Well if you have a GPU that can handle native resolution and AA then your fine. Thats the best case scenario but if you have to choose between lower res and AA or native res and no AA thats where it gets tricky.

 

[Laekon]

Newegg has the 2X4GB Gskill ripjaws XL back on sale for 39.99 on shellshocker... plus a free 4gb micro sd card with it..

In an email from Newegg this morning they have the 1333 version of that ram for $35. Pissed me off cause I bought the non X version last night for $45.

 

[Gvaz]

No true because a 1280x720 at 2xAA will render at 2560x1440 before sampling down to 1280x720 then upsampling to 1080p to display the final output. 1080p at 0xAA will render at 1920x1080 and directly display the output. Now yes thats assuming Full scene AA but with MSAA the workload would probably work out to be the same but picture quality at 1920x1080 0xAA will be better then 1280x720 2xAA

I was meaning w/r/t stable fps, like most console games try to at least have 30fps around 720p but not all of them have AA.

Also even with 2xAA at 720p there's still tons of jaggies regardless of the downsample.

Also hardly any console games for example use fxaa or mlaa or the equivalent. It's for the most part basic AA or nothing.

(I'm using consoles to help illustrate the difference)

 

[Nemesis121]

My main HDD died leaves me with one HDD, I can't afford something expensive but what's a good HDD for under $50, need a backup current one is 4 years old...