SneakyStephan
Banned
Noone have any solid monitor advice then for my post 2 pages back?
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
One of the Samsung 120Hz panels. I have one and aside from random 'cold boot' display not detected things (Doesn't happen in game). It's absolutely fantastic.
For the future repost or link so people don't have to search back.
SneakyStephan
Banned
Any specific model and why you'd recommend it? My experience with samsung has been awful input lag and poor build quality and cheap ass low end TN panels.
Whiteshirt
Member
They seem to being phased out for new models but what you're looking for are the S23A700, S23A750, or the S23A950. There is also a 27" model available, just replace the 23 with 27 and you'll find them. When running at 120hz mode, they have 13ms of input lag, which is fine, but they have double that amount when running at 60hz mode so you probably don't want to be playing your console on it.
Another option includes the Asus VG23AH, which is an PLS/IPS monitor that can be driven to run at 72hz. Apparently if you wear glasses, you see faint grey horizontal lines so I'd try and see this monitor in person before buying or at least pick a place with good return policies. It also has passive 3D but Asus, being the kind people they are, don't provide the software or any real instructions on how to set it up.
There is also the old Asus VG236H, which is a perfectly good 120hz monitor. Good luck finding one though.
Edit:
I should clarify some things further.
The S27A950 is the worst version of the three 27" Samsung 120hz monitors because Samsung can't create a sensible monitor design if their life depended on it. The asymmetric design actually puts strain on where the panel and stand connects so you're always going to get backlight bleeding in that area. Besides the monitor design and input choices, the three models are functionally the same. If you want to buy the S23A750/S27A750, make sure your desktop has DisplayPort because its version of HDMI does not support 120hz.
The Asus VG23AH grey line issue seems to be a result of eyeglass filters.
Another option includes the Asus VG23AH, which is an PLS/IPS monitor that can be driven to run at 72hz. Apparently if you wear glasses, you see faint grey horizontal lines so I'd try and see this monitor in person before buying or at least pick a place with good return policies. It also has passive 3D but Asus, being the kind people they are, don't provide the software or any real instructions on how to set it up.
There is also the old Asus VG236H, which is a perfectly good 120hz monitor. Good luck finding one though.
Edit:
I should clarify some things further.
The S27A950 is the worst version of the three 27" Samsung 120hz monitors because Samsung can't create a sensible monitor design if their life depended on it. The asymmetric design actually puts strain on where the panel and stand connects so you're always going to get backlight bleeding in that area. Besides the monitor design and input choices, the three models are functionally the same. If you want to buy the S23A750/S27A750, make sure your desktop has DisplayPort because its version of HDMI does not support 120hz.
The Asus VG23AH grey line issue seems to be a result of eyeglass filters.
SneakyStephan
Banned
13 ms latency is way too high for me, twice that is just ... ugh (and quite a few games seem to force my current monitor into 30 or 60 hz mode with no option to change it, especially ubisoft ones).
Thanks a lot for the suggestions btw I'll look into the samsung ones.
I think I found the asus ones you are suggesting when doing some research on a new monitor a bit over a year ago, I was hoping something newer and better had come out in the meantime.
It's really hard to figure out what is worth anything because the numbers in the specs sheets are almost always a load of horsecrap.
Was looking at some iiyama monitors (since they used to make really great monitors) and they were listed at 2ms response time, but when you look at actual tests or people's impressions it turns out to be nowhere near that.
edit: yeah I found info on the VG23AH monitor a year ago (or 6 months idk anymore) and it seems like a poor option.
72 hz is useless I've only ever seen 75 or 70 hz options in games.
Guess i'll keep looking at 120 hz ones then.
edit 2: I looked up the samsung s23A700 and it seems to have 10 ms input lag but most importantly zero ghosting (which I didn't even know was possible on LCD).
That makes it highly desirable to me (it's 120 hz too).
As always I'm out of luck, it seems to have been discontinued
You said they are phased out for new models, do you know which model replaced it? Not coming up with anything on google
That monitor was a great suggestion though, just what I was looking for.
Thanks a lot for the suggestions btw I'll look into the samsung ones.
I think I found the asus ones you are suggesting when doing some research on a new monitor a bit over a year ago, I was hoping something newer and better had come out in the meantime.
It's really hard to figure out what is worth anything because the numbers in the specs sheets are almost always a load of horsecrap.
Was looking at some iiyama monitors (since they used to make really great monitors) and they were listed at 2ms response time, but when you look at actual tests or people's impressions it turns out to be nowhere near that.
edit: yeah I found info on the VG23AH monitor a year ago (or 6 months idk anymore) and it seems like a poor option.
72 hz is useless I've only ever seen 75 or 70 hz options in games.
Guess i'll keep looking at 120 hz ones then.
edit 2: I looked up the samsung s23A700 and it seems to have 10 ms input lag but most importantly zero ghosting (which I didn't even know was possible on LCD).
That makes it highly desirable to me (it's 120 hz too).
As always I'm out of luck, it seems to have been discontinued
You said they are phased out for new models, do you know which model replaced it? Not coming up with anything on google That monitor was a great suggestion though, just what I was looking for.
Manp
Member
That system reserved partition is a virtual partition and is part of the same physical disk as the rest of the unallocated space.
If you are doing a fresh install just delete the system reserved partition, it will then be amalgamated with the unreserved space allowing you to format the entire disk.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
That does seem a little over priced but I don't know if you can get it cheaper in Japan. For that kind of coin, I would think you could lower something in there and get a 3930k. For your purposes, that CPU is a monster. The nvidia quatro is very expensive as well. You could probably lower that or even get SLI for your video needs. There are ways to shave some costs so that is good news.
You try going into the Windows installer via disc? The reserved partition may need to be deleted by making a whole new install but every Windows install needs that 100~ MB partition.
Are you right-clicking in the "Unallocated" area to try create a "New simple volume"?
Cute Dragon Here
Member
After a chat, I wonder how much we can squeeze in within $300, and a combined CPU and GPU TDP of less than 155.5W. Got suggestions, GAF? Low-profile GPUs only, too.
(It's preferable if the CPU power is as high as possible, as video transcodes are his main use - the computer is going to be very close to several video input sources.)
You should also suggest a motherboard and a graphics card if the integrated graphics is insufficient (video transcoders that he use are CPU-only, but he'd like to see some gaming).
One extra requirement to make things a bit more narrow: If integrated graphics, the motherboard must have D-Sub, DVI, and HDMI. If dedicated graphics, the card must have these outputs, too.
(It's preferable if the CPU power is as high as possible, as video transcodes are his main use - the computer is going to be very close to several video input sources.)
You should also suggest a motherboard and a graphics card if the integrated graphics is insufficient (video transcoders that he use are CPU-only, but he'd like to see some gaming).
One extra requirement to make things a bit more narrow: If integrated graphics, the motherboard must have D-Sub, DVI, and HDMI. If dedicated graphics, the card must have these outputs, too.
If he's using programs that are highly threaded something like the AMD FX 6300 could be an option (not often that AMD will be recommended) but it's TDP is 95w, that's the only thing.
3570K is probably your best option though and just stick with the HD 4000 iGPU for now and buy a dedicated GPU later down the line.
I recently got an Asus VE24 for around $170, I'm not an expert but I feel it's a solid bang for your buck and I'm glad I didn't go any smaller (similar budget). 2ms response, 1080P, LED backlit (and godawful, barely audible built-in speakers).
Whiteshirt
Member
edit: yeah I found info on the VG23AH monitor a year ago (or 6 months idk anymore) and it seems like a poor option.
72 hz is useless I've only ever seen 75 or 70 hz options in games.
Guess i'll keep looking at 120 hz ones then.
edit 2: I looked up the samsung s23A700 and it seems to have 10 ms input lag but most importantly zero ghosting (which I didn't even know was possible on LCD).
That makes it highly desirable to me (it's 120 hz too).
As always I'm out of luck, it seems to have been discontinued
That monitor was a great suggestion though, just what I was looking for.
If we're splitting hairs, a lot of monitors basically have no ghosting. It still won't look like a CRT.
I should have been clearer. The Asus VG23AH does 72/75/76hz over HDMI and DVI with custom GPU timings. I just said 72hz because that's divisible by 24 so 24 FPS content runs perfectly.
I don't know what Samsung is doing but that's the only reason why they would basically EOL their 120hz monitors: to release a new lineup.
I7-930 running at 4.3GHz, 2x GTX680 4GB, 24GB RAM. No aero off, I'm running windows 8
With all settings at ultra, motion blur off, post AA off, deferred 4x AA I get between 45-60 fps depending on map and player count. I am CPU bottlenecked because I usually play in 64 player servers and fps scales with player count for me. GPU usage is 80-90% and VRAM usage is usually just over 2000MB. I bought 4GB because I use triple screens for future games but have since realized that maybe one or two games with AA enabled use over 2GB. Only ones I have seen are BF3 and pCARs
doniewhalberg
Member
Anyone had any experience with the Asus VG23AH? I had been fairly confident on purchasing a PA238q for gaming with, and on a whim earlier I thought I'd look up the nearest 3D enabled counterpart just to see the difference. This was only 20mins ago, so I haven't read up too much on it, but I expected there would be a fair trade-off in quality, to get the 3D instead but they seem pretty equal feature-wise, is this right ha? I've never 3D gamed before, but the price points for both are so close, I feel like it's maybe silly not to get the 3D enabled set if they are indeed so similar, and the PA238q isn't miles better or anything.
Like I said, this is purely for gaming, no photo editing or anything. Cheers.
Like I said, this is purely for gaming, no photo editing or anything. Cheers.
Whiteshirt
Member
PA238q has a 10 bit lookup table for smoother gradients and factory calibration. Neither matters for you.
The Asus VG23AH has passive 3D but Asus doesn't tell you how to use it and doesn't really provide the TriDef software to get it to work properly. It can also run at 72/75/76hz, unlike the PA238q.
The major problem with Asus VG23AH becomes apparent if you wear filtered or polarized glasses. If you wear that sort of eyewear, you can see the 3D filter in the form of horizontal grey lines.
Putting my new rig together finally. Had a question about graphics card power hookup (670GTX).
PSU has modular PCI-E power module with 2 cords of 6pin + 2pin and GPU has 8pin power connector and a 6pin one so do I use the 6pin or do I use the 6pin+2pin (as an 8pin) or do I use both? The graphics card came with absolutely zero documentation. My old 8800GTX in my current rig is using 2x6pin hookups so I kind of assumed this would use both but I wanted to check.
Here's a picture:
PSU has modular PCI-E power module with 2 cords of 6pin + 2pin and GPU has 8pin power connector and a 6pin one so do I use the 6pin or do I use the 6pin+2pin (as an 8pin) or do I use both? The graphics card came with absolutely zero documentation. My old 8800GTX in my current rig is using 2x6pin hookups so I kind of assumed this would use both but I wanted to check.
Here's a picture:
Whiteshirt
Member
Plug everything in. So plug in the 6 + 6 + 2 plugs. Don't leave any slot empty.
The best part about 3D monitors is 120hz capability and I will recommend the good ones (ASUS, BenQ, Samsung) over anything else for gaming.
*edit*
What sucks is that a lot of the models seem discontinued. I'm thinking there has to be a major refresh soon. I'm excited to give that new ASUS 144hz monitor a shot.
*edit*
What sucks is that a lot of the models seem discontinued. I'm thinking there has to be a major refresh soon. I'm excited to give that new ASUS 144hz monitor a shot.
Whiteshirt
Member
Yeah. In the light of things, I think the Asus VG23AH is the best all-round monitor on the market right now. Completely negligible input lag, tonnes of inputs, height adjustment, uses a semi-gloss IPS panel, can be pushed to 76hz, has extremely solid default presets. Close to perfect if you don't wear polarized or filtered glasses.
Something that might interest you. Monitors with Lightboost seem to have a trick where you mess around with the 3D and backlighting to make it behave like a CRT. So basically you're doing black frame insertion if I understand it right. Info here and here. Since its a NV 3D thing, obviously AMD GPU owners are left in the dark.
Something that might interest you. Monitors with Lightboost seem to have a trick where you mess around with the 3D and backlighting to make it behave like a CRT. So basically you're doing black frame insertion if I understand it right. Info here and here. Since its a NV 3D thing, obviously AMD GPU owners are left in the dark.
Hawk269
Member
I have not hooked them up yet. I have a whole box of computer parts to do some small upgrading.
I am planning to install new fans on my radiators using the newest noiseblocker fans, also going to add a drain valve to my loop and have some new fan filters for the case that I want to put in, then also add the new SSD's and do a fresh install of Windows. (Still debating on if I should go back to Win7 or stick with Win8).
What are the benefits of doing a Raid 0 with the 2 SSD's? I have never done that before and not sure what it would do for me.
doniewhalberg
Member
Thanks for the responses guys, I was just coming back to ask about 3d Vision/Lightboost. I've been relegated to a 23"/24" screen by the missus so I was wondering if something like a BenQ XL2420T that has the 3DV2/lightboost stacks up against the VG23AH that is without, but gets pretty great reviews?
so my build is following:
Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-B75M-D3V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
GPU - Power Color AX7850 2GBD5-DH
PSU - CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80
HDD - Western Digital AV WD5000AVKX 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5
RAM - Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
CPU - Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost)
will it work together?
Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-B75M-D3V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
GPU - Power Color AX7850 2GBD5-DH
PSU - CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80
HDD - Western Digital AV WD5000AVKX 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5
RAM - Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
CPU - Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost)
will it work together?
Hi everybody,
Long time lurker here, and i am excited that my neogaf account was approved the same day i finished my build (last night) !!
All the regular posters in this thread helped me choose my parts, couldn't have done it without all of you. Thanks!
Parts used: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x0eo
Grand total w/tax: 1193.22 (excluding monitor and keyboard)
Shopped for 6 weeks, combinations of local microcenter and ebay steals.
Long time lurker here, and i am excited that my neogaf account was approved the same day i finished my build (last night) !!
All the regular posters in this thread helped me choose my parts, couldn't have done it without all of you. Thanks!
Parts used: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x0eo
Grand total w/tax: 1193.22 (excluding monitor and keyboard)
Shopped for 6 weeks, combinations of local microcenter and ebay steals.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Hmm. the 3570K would be smoking fast, but the FX-6300 would make for a good stop-gap without buying any GPU first, and both configurations would provide enough TDP headroom for what he's eying anyway.
So, I think he'll be picking the FX-6300 anyway, since he'd like to stick it as close as possible to his original budget, but even something slightly over $200 is now in reach, so... yeah. (His current CPU's a $!%!$!$!@ AM2 that has a 125W TDP!)
Setup a computer for someone at work this week. I really like a lot of features of the Shinobi. The mesh filters are really cheap, but overall very nice, especially the front finish.
(And yes I fixed the bulging DVD cover)
BitFenix Shinobi
Intel 3570K
ASUS LK
CM 212 EVO
16GB of Samsung RAM
Crucial 256GB m4
Antec BP550
eVGA GTX660 (Needed a good warranty and dual fan cooler)
(And yes I fixed the bulging DVD cover)
BitFenix Shinobi
Intel 3570K
ASUS LK
CM 212 EVO
16GB of Samsung RAM
Crucial 256GB m4
Antec BP550
eVGA GTX660 (Needed a good warranty and dual fan cooler)
Yup. If you are buying new though I'd suggest different parts.
It's good.
Solid
Dave_6
Member
Setup a computer for someone at work this week. I really like a lot of features of the Shinobi. The mesh filters are really cheap, but overall very nice, especially the front finish.
(And yes I fixed the bulging DVD cover)
BitFenix Shinobi
Intel 3570K
ASUS LK
CM 212 EVO
16GB of Samsung RAM
Crucial 256GB m4
Antec BP550
eVGA GTX660 (Needed a good warranty and dual fan cooler)
Looks almost exactly like what I am wanting to build, except I will be going with either a 670 or even 680 GPU. Probably will stick with 8GB of RAM though. Will that BP550 handle either of those GPUs well enough?
Good things come to those who wait
Not much will be changing between the threads though.Yeah it's perfectly fine for either one of those.
sorijealut
Member
Gonna try to repost this here. Sorry for noob questions
Additionally, I've done some clueless and random overclocking, and one thing I notice is that my computer's noise level has gone up... I would like to address this but not sure how.
Hi guys,
So after my recent first PC build (through PCgaf ofc
I was just wondering what are recommended ways to overclock?
I'm not sure how one goes about trying different settings and how I would know what works and what doesn't.
For example, my CPU(i5 3570k) overclocked itself through ASUS AI Suite II's TurvoV EVO, and I thought it succeeded to OC to 4.2Ghz but the number now keeps fluctuating between 1.6~3.5. Occasionally the 4.2 shows.
That's just one thing though. Then there's RAM and GPU. @_@ Also, do I have enough power to OC at 550W?
here are my components one more time:
i5 3570K
ASUS P8Z77 LK
Sapphire 7950 (I think just normal ver.)
Samsung GAF RAM
XFX PRO550W
Additionally, I've done some clueless and random overclocking, and one thing I notice is that my computer's noise level has gone up... I would like to address this but not sure how.
Koroviev
Member
Gonna try to repost this here. Sorry for noob questions
Additionally, I've done some clueless and random overclocking, and one thing I notice is that my computer's noise level has gone up... I would like to address this but not sure how.
Well, do you need to be overclocking your components just yet? Maybe take it easy for a while and see how your PC runs without additional tweaking.
sorijealut
Member
That is indeed a good point... I don't really NEED to, since everything ran fine before. maybe I'll try reverting some settings.
Koroviev
Member
I'm not saying there's anything wrong with overclocking, but it might be best to wait until you have a better understanding of it...can't un-fry a processor <_<
Speaking of overclocking, is that fancy CPU cooler recommended if you're not doing any of that? I'll probably try my hand at overclocking in the future, but for the time being I am content with what I have (and oh so lazy).
sorijealut
Member
I figured there are enough safeguards to try. I don't think it is that dangerous, right?
memecomplex
Member
If it's primarily a gaming rig, I would go back to Win 7 for now. Win 8 still has some issues with some games and apps, older ones especially.
Benefit of Raid 0 is pure speed plus the added convenience of having both of your SSDs show up as one single drive (sum total of your drive capacities). I'm not a pro so I don't have hard data or anything, but comparing my Raid 0 SSDs vs my friend's single SSD (butt dyno-style), Borderlands 2 loads roughly 2x as fast.
Koroviev
Member
It's still possible to do damage.
Might still want to get the upgrade copy of Win8 and save it for later...the price increase is looking to be pretty brutal following the promotion.
yes, it's new. What different parts? I tried to get it as cheap as I can.
Wanted to take the time to thank kharma45 for the video card recommendation.
Finally got my HD7850. Installed and running!
Quick question: after uninstalling the nvidia drivers and deleting everything in the nvidia folder, the HDaudio driver remained. Should I have left that or was it correct to uninstall it as well?
Finally got my HD7850. Installed and running!
Quick question: after uninstalling the nvidia drivers and deleting everything in the nvidia folder, the HDaudio driver remained. Should I have left that or was it correct to uninstall it as well?
Working on it now.
More fan noise from extra cooling needed. There's an OC guide in the OP.Gonna try to repost this here. Sorry for noob questions
Additionally, I've done some clueless and random overclocking, and one thing I notice is that my computer's noise level has gone up... I would like to address this but not sure how.
Fill out the sheet in the OP.
Remove it iirc. I think it can cause audio conflict. It's for HDMI audio or something.NoRéN said:
Looks like I did the right thing. Thanks, everyone.
CASES
$60 - BitFenix Shinobi .
$80 - BitFenix Ghost .
$100 - Define R4 . . .
$130 - Fractal Define XL R2
$40 - NZXT Source 210
$50 - BitFenix Outlaw
$60 - CM HAF 912 . . .
$60 - Corsair 200R
$80 - CM 690II Adv. . .
$100 - CM Scout II . .
$110 - Lian Li PC-7HX
$120 - Corsair C70
$130 - CM HAF XM . . . .
$140 - Shinobi XL . .
$160 - Switch 810 . . .
$160 - CM Storm Stryker/Trooper
$350 - Corsair 900D . . .
$400 - Lian Li V750 .
$400 - CaseLabs SM8
$450 - LittleDevil PC-V7
[QUIET OPTIONS]
[BUDGET]
[ENHANCED]
[EXCELLENT]
[ENTHUSIAST]
do you mean Google docs one? Or PC part picker?
Was there a reason, why you did external watercooling on your White Bitfenix Shinobi XL mkenyon? I'm wondering, because it has plenty of space for internal watercooling, doesn't it?
I like the Shinobi XL a lot, definetely ordering it in some weeks and test it with my current system.
I like the Shinobi XL a lot, definetely ordering it in some weeks and test it with my current system.
If you want help with a build fill this out AND try making one of your own from the resources in the OP
Use PCPartPicker to find the best prices and have a nice list of parts. I highly recommend Amazon and Newegg in North America.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM (DDR2/DDR3) / Motherboard / GPU / PSU
Budget: Price Range + Country
Main Use: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, HD Streaming, 3D work, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback). Rate importance on a 1-5 scale. (5 Being highest)
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Self Explanatory. Also is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120?
Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX 520W, 640GB SATA HDD, CM Centurion 5)
When will you build?: What time frames are doable? Are you building this weekend? Do you need it in a week or so? Can you wait a month or two?
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes)
Your Current Specs: none, it's a completely new PC in addition to my main PC
Budget: 500-600$
Main Use: strictly co-op and multiplayer gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920*1080. Will upgrade in 2-3 years. I'll have to buy another monitor.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: drops to 30 fps are acceptable, people will play multiplayer shooters and action games. High settings, but not ultra or maxed out.
Looking to reuse any parts?: I have a tower case from one of my old PCs, keyboard and mouse.
When will you build?: next weekend
Will you be overclocking?: No
- Status