SneakyStephan
Banned
Noone have any solid monitor advice then for my post 2 pages back?
One of the Samsung 120Hz panels. I have one and aside from random 'cold boot' display not detected things (Doesn't happen in game). It's absolutely fantastic.My trusty 10 year old IIyama vision master pro monitor is about to crap out on me so I'm in urgent need of a replacement.
It started to show some lines at the very top of the screen recently and now it's intermittantly getting what looks like static interference or the power crapping out.
I guess it's going to die on me any day now.
I hope someone here can suggest a good monitor to buy, I'll detail what I'm looking for below in order of importance:
-1080p or if at all possible 1920x1200 (I'm used to 1200 vertical res it is great for browsing) I'd love a higher res monitor but my pc just isn't up to rendering at higher res anyhow. Since lcd sucks at showing non-native resolution images it would probably do more harm than good.
-22-24", can be bigger I suppose but I'd be more than happy with this size
-low (and I mean LOW) input lag, as close to 0 ms as possible. This is a must and non-negotiable
-really good motion clarity (low response time), being used to a crt monitor I find it very hard to deal with blurry motion on your average lcd panel. A blurry panel is a dealbreaker, I'd prefer to get close to crt clarity...
-120 hz or at least 75 hz refresh rate if possible. I don't like playing at 60 fps.
I can compromise on this if the panel is otherwise really good.
For the coating I'd prefer glossy (I'm used to CRT, sun glare does not bother me) and I have good window blinds for when the sun is low.
The infamous dell 'sandpaper' matte coating sounds horrifying to me.
Price: between 200-300 euros, maybe a bit more if it means I can get something that isn't a horrible compromise for the things I listed above.
I realise the limits of lcd tech and that I probably won't find the ideal panel, but I just want to know what is best in my price range right now with the above conditions.
I'd much much prefer IPS (am allergic to TN panel viewing angles and poor colors) but those don't come cheap and I don't think they have any 75-120 hz panels and all suffer from bad motion clarity?
I haven't been following monitor releases or tech in the past 2 years and since I'm in a big hurry I might not have the time to research properly with my monitor prone to crapping out on my any day/minute now.
I'm looking for advice from knowledgable and discerning people who know what it's like to have to lower your standards from CRT level to LCD level, not 'I have a 1080p samsung monitor and I think it's grate' (sorry if that sounds offensive).
Thanks in advance for your input.
One of the Samsung 120Hz panels. I have one and aside from random 'cold boot' display not detected things (Doesn't happen in game). It's absolutely fantastic.
For the future repost or link so people don't have to search back.
My next PC purchase has been discovered. Nothing short of amazing, TJ11 has a challenger for best 'mainstream' water cooling case on earth, caselabs don't count IMO because they are too reliant on people knowing exactly what and are available only in the states.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l145/steggs69/736020_517270621646364_276985282_o_zps1760172b.png[IMG]
[IMG]http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l145/steggs69/321029_517270661646360_1435741622_n_zpse0b2c4cf.png[IMG]
[IMG]http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l145/steggs69/408633_518626048177488_327704824_n_zps019952a5.png
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l145/steggs69/14820_518626088177484_800511986_n_zps23c3e5e6.png[IMG]
[IMG]http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l145/steggs69/23407_518626148177478_1432275004_n_zps27414e4d.png[IMG]
[IMG]http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l145/steggs69/738395_517270694979690_1720488171_o_zpsd4076de8.png[IMG][/QUOTE]
sweet jesus
Still unable to format my HD, i can't really find any answers on the internet either. :/
That does seem a little over priced but I don't know if you can get it cheaper in Japan. For that kind of coin, I would think you could lower something in there and get a 3930k. For your purposes, that CPU is a monster. The nvidia quatro is very expensive as well. You could probably lower that or even get SLI for your video needs. There are ways to shave some costs so that is good news.Anyway, I found this:
Dospara Raytrek 2013 (Japanese)
I will try to translate the stats but I don't know the exact english words (I'm from Spain) so some stuff might be translated in a weird way..
OS: Windows 7 Professional 64bit
Price: 229,980 Yen ($2554)
---------------------------------------
- Intel Core i7-3820 (Quad core / 3.60GHz / TB 3.80GHz / L3Cash 10MB/HT Compatible)
- NVIDIA Quadro 4000 2GB
- 32GB DDR3 SDRAM (PC3-12800/4GBx8/4Channel)
- SSD 120GB (Intel 520) + 2TB HDD (SATA3)
- DVD Super multi-drive (??)
- Intel X79 Express Chipset ATX Motherboard
- SR598M ATX case
The model name is Raytrek 2013, though I guess this is only for Japan, but whatever.
What do you guys think? I have this feeling that PCs in Japan might be a bit too expensive, but then again, I'm not sure...
Also, if I pay 1200 Yen (about $10 or so?), I can get Windows 8...
Also can lower the HDD to 1TB and then change the memory slots to 8Gbx4 so I use less slots and still have 32Gb, for the same price, which I might do because I really don't think I need 2TB for now...
Still unable to format my HD, i can't really find any answers on the internet either. :/
Ya, and 931GB unallocated.
After a chat, I wonder how much we can squeeze in within $300, and a combined CPU and GPU TDP of less than 155.5W. Got suggestions, GAF? Low-profile GPUs only, too.
(It's preferable if the CPU power is as high as possible, as video transcodes are his main use - the computer is going to be very close to several video input sources.)
You should also suggest a motherboard and a graphics card if the integrated graphics is insufficient (video transcoders that he use are CPU-only, but he'd like to see some gaming).
One extra requirement to make things a bit more narrow: If integrated graphics, the motherboard must have D-Sub, DVI, and HDMI. If dedicated graphics, the card must have these outputs, too.
any advice on gaming monitors in 100-200$ range?
thanks a ton.
edit: yeah I found info on the VG23AH monitor a year ago (or 6 months idk anymore) and it seems like a poor option.
72 hz is useless I've only ever seen 75 or 70 hz options in games.
Guess i'll keep looking at 120 hz ones then.
edit 2: I looked up the samsung s23A700 and it seems to have 10 ms input lag but most importantly zero ghosting (which I didn't even know was possible on LCD).
That makes it highly desirable to me (it's 120 hz too).
As always I'm out of luck, it seems to have been discontinued You said they are phased out for new models, do you know which model replaced it? Not coming up with anything on google
That monitor was a great suggestion though, just what I was looking for.
BF3's pretty good with VRAM from what I hear, it dynamically uses the amount of available VRAM on the card. What are the specs of your system and how does it run at those settings? Did you turn Aero off?
Anyone had any experience with the Asus VG23AH? I had been fairly confident on purchasing a PA238q for gaming with, and on a whim earlier I thought I'd look up the nearest 3D enabled counterpart just to see the difference. This was only 20mins ago, so I haven't read up too much on it, but I expected there would be a fair trade-off in quality, to get the 3D instead but they seem pretty equal feature-wise, is this right ha? I've never 3D gamed before, but the price points for both are so close, I feel like it's maybe silly not to get the 3D enabled set if they are indeed so similar, and the PA238q isn't miles better or anything.
Like I said, this is purely for gaming, no photo editing or anything. Cheers.
Nice! Did you Raid 0 those SSDs?
I was considering going all SSDs, but opted to go with a mechanical drive for back up and media storage. Very happy with it for now.
Yeah. In the light of things, I think the Asus VG23AH is the best all-round monitor on the market right now. Completely negligible input lag, tonnes of inputs, height adjustment, uses a semi-gloss IPS panel, can be pushed to 76hz, has extremely solid default presets. Close to perfect if you don't wear polarized or filtered glasses.
Something that might interest you. Monitors with Lightboost seem to have a trick where you mess around with the 3D and backlighting to make it behave like a CRT. So basically you're doing black frame insertion if I understand it right. Info here and here. Since its a NV 3D thing, obviously AMD GPU owners are left in the dark.
If he's using programs that are highly threaded something like the AMD FX 6300 could be an option (not often that AMD will be recommended) but it's TDP is 95w, that's the only thing.
3570K is probably your best option though and just stick with the HD 4000 iGPU for now and buy a dedicated GPU later down the line.
Yup. If you are buying new though I'd suggest different parts.so my build is following:
Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-B75M-D3V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
GPU - Power Color AX7850 2GBD5-DH
PSU - CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80
HDD - Western Digital AV WD5000AVKX 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5
RAM - Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
CPU - Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost)
will it work together?
It's good.Is the thermal paste that comes with the Hyper 212 good enough or should I order something different?
SolidHi everybody,
Long time lurker here, and i am excited that my neogaf account was approved the same day i finished my build (last night) !!
All the regular posters in this thread helped me choose my parts, couldn't have done it without all of you. Thanks!
Parts used: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/x0eo
Grand total w/tax: 1193.22 (excluding monitor and keyboard)
Shopped for 6 weeks, combinations of local microcenter and ebay steals.
Setup a computer for someone at work this week. I really like a lot of features of the Shinobi. The mesh filters are really cheap, but overall very nice, especially the front finish.
(And yes I fixed the bulging DVD cover)
BitFenix Shinobi
Intel 3570K
ASUS LK
CM 212 EVO
16GB of Samsung RAM
Crucial 256GB m4
Antec BP550
eVGA GTX660 (Needed a good warranty and dual fan cooler)
sooooooo about that 2013 thread?
Looks almost exactly like what I am wanting to build, except I will be going with either a 670 or even 680 GPU. Probably will stick with 8GB of RAM though. Will that BP550 handle either of those GPUs well enough?
Hi guys,
So after my recent first PC build (through PCgaf ofc ),
I was just wondering what are recommended ways to overclock?
I'm not sure how one goes about trying different settings and how I would know what works and what doesn't.
For example, my CPU(i5 3570k) overclocked itself through ASUS AI Suite II's TurvoV EVO, and I thought it succeeded to OC to 4.2Ghz but the number now keeps fluctuating between 1.6~3.5. Occasionally the 4.2 shows.
That's just one thing though. Then there's RAM and GPU. @_@ Also, do I have enough power to OC at 550W?
here are my components one more time:
i5 3570K
ASUS P8Z77 LK
Sapphire 7950 (I think just normal ver.)
Samsung GAF RAM
XFX PRO550W
Gonna try to repost this here. Sorry for noob questions
Additionally, I've done some clueless and random overclocking, and one thing I notice is that my computer's noise level has gone up... I would like to address this but not sure how.
Well, do you need to be overclocking your components just yet? Maybe take it easy for a while and see how your PC runs without additional tweaking.
That is indeed a good point... I don't really NEED to, since everything ran fine before. maybe I'll try reverting some settings.
I'm not saying there's anything wrong with overclocking, but it might be best to wait until you have a better understanding of it...can't un-fry a processor <_<
Speaking of overclocking, is that fancy CPU cooler recommended if you're not doing any of that? I'll probably try my hand at overclocking in the future, but for the time being I am content with what I have (and oh so lazy).
I have not hooked them up yet. I have a whole box of computer parts to do some small upgrading.
I am planning to install new fans on my radiators using the newest noiseblocker fans, also going to add a drain valve to my loop and have some new fan filters for the case that I want to put in, then also add the new SSD's and do a fresh install of Windows. (Still debating on if I should go back to Win7 or stick with Win8).
What are the benefits of doing a Raid 0 with the 2 SSD's? I have never done that before and not sure what it would do for me.
I figured there are enough safeguards to try. I don't think it is that dangerous, right?
If it's primarily a gaming rig, I would go back to Win 7 for now. Win 8 still has some issues with some games and apps, older ones especially.
Benefit of Raid 0 is pure speed plus the added convenience of having both of your SSDs show up as one single drive (sum total of your drive capacities). I'm not a pro so I don't have hard data or anything, but comparing my Raid 0 SSDs vs my friend's single SSD (butt dyno-style), Borderlands 2 loads roughly 2x as fast.
Yup. If you are buying new though I'd suggest different parts.
Working on it now.sooooooo about that 2013 thread?
More fan noise from extra cooling needed. There's an OC guide in the OP.Gonna try to repost this here. Sorry for noob questions
Additionally, I've done some clueless and random overclocking, and one thing I notice is that my computer's noise level has gone up... I would like to address this but not sure how.
Fill out the sheet in the OP.yes, it's new. What different parts? I tried to get it as cheap as I can.
Remove it iirc. I think it can cause audio conflict. It's for HDMI audio or something.NoRéN said:Wanted to take the time to thank kharma45 for the video card recommendation.
Finally got my HD7850. Installed and running!
Quick question: after uninstalling the nvidia drivers and deleting everything in the nvidia folder, the HDaudio driver remained. Should I have left that or was it correct to uninstall it as well?
Remove it iirc. I think it can cause audio conflict. It's for HDMI audio or something.
Fill out the sheet in the OP.
.
do you mean Google docs one? Or PC part picker?
I didn't do external watercooling.
Maybe you're thining of n0n44m's Define XL?
Basic Desktop Questions: