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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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kharma45

Member
Tek Syndicate has published their follow up video to the 7870 one they did previous

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4et7kDGSRfc

Set up is now the AMD FX 8350 OC'd to 5GHz vs i5 3570k OC'd to 4.4GHz paired with an EVGA GTX 670 at 1080p and 1440p.

No frame latencies tested just purely FPS, power consumption analysed too.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/fx-8350-core-i7-3770k-gaming-bottleneck,3407-6.html

Well toms has beat me to the punch for my CPU analysis of BF3 but they tested single player. However at 5760x1080 it seems that BF3 eats CPU cycles for breakfast brunch lunch dinner supper and even afternoon tea. Great overall article showing that at stupid high resolutions and graphics settings neither intel or AMD is good enough.

Also 3770k still better at 1080p. Who knew.

And yes mkenyon they are using frame times for analysis

Surprised that they didn't push the AMD OC further, seems slightly unfair to OC the nuts off the Intel but barely push the AMD.
 

MysticX

Member
I am currently using a: Gigabyte MA770T-UD3 and am wondering if there is any way to use 2 sata ports in RAID 0, while others in IDE mode?

Just wanna make sure, because BIOS says SATA 4+5 I think in RAID mode, so can I use the other ports as SATA IDE (ahci)?

Or do I HAVE to buy a SATA PCI RAID 0 controller?

Only asking caus I´ve got 2 1TB disks I wanna put into RAID 0 instead of currently 2+2TB since max size of RAID 0 is 2.2TB, then I can use them in IDE mode instead.

(I want to have 2 1TB in RAID 0 and 4 2TB in normal SATA mode)

Thx Gaffers.

requoting,

if I need a SATA PCI, is 1.5gbps enough for normal disks? will I see a difference with a 3tbps controller instead?
 

DietRob

i've been begging for over 5 years.
My precious..
P3edfGdl.jpg


This 7950 should arrive today. Now I have to figure a case to put it in. I'm thinking the Shinobi will work great for me I love the sleek and clean look. Monday is build day.
 

Koroviev

Member
Good machine. One advice, if you run into problems and want GAF to save you, make sure to describe what happens with screenshots from your mobile.

By the way, is anyone in this thread actually building PC for a living ?

I've built quite a few PCs at work, but they're not monsters...although most of them do have i3s, 8GB of RAM, and SSDs :p
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Good lawd those Skyrim latency spikes.

Skyrim is notoriously finicky with CPU's. Launch was worse as we had to use large address aware fixes (among other things) to get things to work. That's why the consoles are even more unstable but good PC HW bails the game out often times.

This thread seems to be more active, so I'll just ask it here. I am thinking about getting an external cooling system for my laptop for the heavy gaming I do. Would you guys recommend this? If so, where should I start my searching?

I would also like to ask this as my wife will be getting a laptop soon. I've bought 2 before, one Coolermaster 30USD one and some other one that was not notable enough to remember. I will be honest, even the $30 Coolermaster left things to be desired. It would seem best to find one made for specific models if possible.
 
Hmm looks like I need some help.

On the video card, there's two power connectors: one 8 pin, one 6 pin.

The cable labled VGA has two connectors: one 6 pin, one 2 pin.

Do I have the wrong cable?

img_1096xnpx4.jpg
 

n0n44m

Member
Hmm looks like I need some help.

On the video card, there's two power connectors: one 8 pin, one 6 pin.

The cable labled VGA has two connectors: one 6 pin, one 2 pin.

Do I have the wrong cable?

[]http://www.abload.de/img/img_1096xnpx4.jpg[/IMG]

that's a 6+2 aka 8 pin ; they combine to make 8

so stick all 8 pins of that one in the card, then you need the second 6+2 pin cable and only use the 6 pin part of that one to complete it
 
that's a 6+2 aka 8 pin ; they combine to make 8

so stick all 8 pins of that one in the card, then you need the second 6+2 pin cable and only use the 6 pin part of that one to complete it

Ok thanks a lot, I'll do that.

Wow I'm having a blast putting this all together.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Ok thanks a lot, I'll do that.

Wow I'm having a blast putting this all together.

That's the excitement of knowing you're building a good rig. I remember the feeling of going from my 2 core Athlon to the 2500k I just sold and am still using now. The only thing I really held back on was a good case with proper fans and cable management options. This time, I am basically getting everything I want and will be doing the right things with air flow plus cable management.

Hopefully everything goes smooth as once it posts, that's half the battle. Make sure you monitor temps and get some basic diagnostic apps installed as soon as you can.
 
This thread seems to be more active, so I'll just ask it here. I am thinking about getting an external cooling system for my laptop for the heavy gaming I do. Would you guys recommend this? If so, where should I start my searching?

In my experience they have a small, but noticeable effect. My laptop (xps 1600) stays 3-5 degrees cooler. Interestingly, that's the difference between throttled and not throttled after 20 minutes of GPU utilization.
 

Hydrogen

Banned
Here's the pc I'm thinking to build. Would someone be kind enough to check if it is fine?

CPU i5 3450s
GPU asus HD7850 1gb (the one with Direct CU)
2 x 4gb kingston hyperX black series
120 Gb Samsung sdd
MB Asus P8H77-I mini itx
1 Tb WD blue hd
Case Silverstone SG05 or 06

Will it blend? The most demanding stuff I intent to do is playing some games and emulators.
 

kharma45

Member
Here's the pc I'm thinking to build. Would someone be kind enough to check if it is fine?

CPU i5 3450s
GPU asus HD7850 1gb (the one with Direct CU)
2 x 4gb kingston hyperX black series
120 Gb Samsung sdd
MB Asus P8H77-I mini itx
1 Tb WD blue hd
Case Silverstone SG05 or 06

Will it blend? The most demanding stuff I intent to do is playing some games and emulators.

What resolution will you be at? What sort of price is that RAM?
 
Not perfect, but it's a start. Need to do the cabeling a little better.

Can I just start it up and it will boot from the Win8 install DVD or do I have to do change some settings in the BIOS first?

img_1097ndp11.jpg
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Not perfect, but it's a start. Need to do the cabeling a little better.

Can I just start it up and it will boot from the Win8 install DVD or do I have to do change some settings in the BIOS first?

img_1097ndp11.jpg

I always adjust boot options in the bios as some times the DVD drive isn't even set as a boot device.

Which case is that? Looks a lot like the Corsair 500R I just got the other day minus the feet and color.

Also, dat CPU cooler :p

I know it's a premium but being enlightened on closed loop water cooling is the best thing I've come to learn in the last couple years. I'm almost glad I didn't pick one with my current build as it seems like they are just getting to be really good recently with the bigger 2 fan length radiators.
 
I always adjust boot options in the bios as some times the DVD drive isn't even set as a boot device.

Which case is that? Looks a lot like the Corsair 500R I just got the other day minus the feet and color.

Also, dat CPU cooler :p

I know it's a premium but being enlightened on closed loop water cooling is the best thing I've come to learn in the last couple years. I'm almost glad I didn't pick one with my current build as it seems like they are just getting to be really good recently with the bigger 2 fan length radiators.

It's a Fractal Define R4
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
It's a Fractal Define R4

I looked it up. It's nice but less featured than my 500R. Not that it's a bad case but it's crazy what options open up when you jump even 10-20 USD in price. The case I have has features present in cases 100 USD more. What I really like are things like the right side panel having a nice bulge that looks stylish but also helps with cable management. And plenty of spots for fans.

You should track ambient case temps and all that once you get that up and running.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
I'm weak, I was holding back the 83 in PP funds for my imminent h100i purchase but I will have to just buy that when I buy the last pieces for my rig.

Got the CM Storm Spawn and a highly rated mouse pad. The mouse pad is optional but my wrist basically took control and made me buy it :p

Thanks to mkenyon for putting that short list together as I weighed the 3 options and just went for it instead of the Xornet which is 20USD cheaper. I couldn't bring myself to order the most expensive (66USD one) but I have no regrets. This will be a huge step up from my wireless m305.

Carpal tunnel be damned!
 

ragon

Member
This thread is really awesome!
I wonder if any one tried to run OSX on PC and worked well? ...as it could run Final Cut or Motion like the original Mac?
 

longdi

Banned
So I've been busy on the creative forums discussing the new Soundblaster Zx, I figured I'd post here too so anyone considering can at least take into accoutn my feedback:

41A5R2qbKSL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


I've front loaded this with some useless background information, so jump to the bolded if you want a quick review

Let me start by saying I'm a long time creative supporter, from the earlier days of the Sound Blaster 16. The last card I bought prior to this new Zx was an Xfi Xtrememusic. A card that has worked wonderfully for a very long time, by far the oldest piece of hardware I currently have in my desktop. The only ONLY reason I decided to replace is was the driver support for Windows 8 has really been poor. I use Dolby Live and DTS Connect exclusively in my setup as I have a home theater down stairs and my office upstairs, both connected to the same computer (and many feet of HDMI cable). As of recently the XFI hasnt been retaining setting on reboot (a driver flaw with a weird fix of putting the computer into sleep mode first) and Dolby Live/DTS Connect sometime dont work, or worse will create a weird feedback loop sound that builds on it self and eventually crashes the computer.

Regardless the card had served me a long time and I dont feel creative owes the series any more true support, its been alive long enough.

So to the good part, the new Soundblaster Zx. My first impression..... I hate it.

Well lets start over, I didn't hate it when I removed it from the box, in fact I thought it was there best looking piece of hardware yet. It looks very well built.

Putting it in the system, starting it up, and installing the drivers all went perfectly fine (skipped the CD and just downloaded the newest strait from the site.)

Once everything was completed I noticed How I liked everything is now installed together, no need for separate installers (like the dolby live installer). Thats all great

So I was excited to fire this girl up and get a listen. I set all the settings how I figured would sound best initially, turned on DTS Connected, set the SBX pro surround setting on, turned crystallization on just a bit and the result...

Terrible.



I was shocked, I played several different music tracks I know by heart, played several movies. All of them came off far to warm, far to "Echo-y" almost. As if the SBX was adding some sort of light reverb to every track.


I turned of SBX and bam, everything was back to sounding fine, except now I've lost all upmixing to 5.1 ability, all music/stereo will now only be played through the mains, which I dont want (If thats all I wanted, as I'm using an all digital connection, I would just switch to onboard). Now I could just use my reciever to upmix for me, but that means changing settings everytime I want to jump from music to true discreet surround sources. Not an option, as why should it be, the Xfi didnt require that, set CSMM to stereo surround and all stereo sources were upmixed, and real 5.1 sources were left alone.

So I figure, no problem, I'll just find the CSMM Stereo surround setting thats been on all Soundblasters sense the audigy.... wait where are the other options for this card????

Seriously, and this is the main problem I'm having with this card, WHY are there no other surround options then just the SBX? The SBX surround is instantly bad in terms of telling you what its actually doing. Is it strait upmixing to the rears/duplicating to the back, is it pulling a Pro Logic effect? Nothing is described or told to the user about what its doing other than a graphic at the top that shows speakers fading in it out. Along with the reverb effect its adding I find this completely useless.

But where are the other options? Why do we have no choice in how stereo sounds are upmixed? Why do we not have the simple things we had with the old xfi's? like choosing between Stereo expand or Stereo Surround? Theres a DTS Neo setting, but ticking it has resulted in no effect (another driver issue perhaps?) regardless DTS Neo upmixing has never sounded good to me. :confused:

This is a $150 card in a day in age when most users feel happy about there onboard solutions. That means its a premium piece of hardware that should be given the users premium options, stuff that makes there upgrade worth it.

Now I'm trying to decide if I want to keep this card and hope that its just early drivers that are the issue here. Perhaps in the coming months we will see improvements and some of the old options return? Maybe the reverb/overly warm sound im hearing is just a driver issue that can be corrected? I dont know, I'm hopping. I have 20 more days to keep her and test it out. Here's hopping.

But this is my summary of this card: for the price its missing key features and driver level options that should be in it. I dont feel I've "upgraded" from my xfi at all, in fact I feel I've downgraded as Stereo surround was my favorite sounding setting as My home theater uses a full array of matched speakers that sound great together.

So anyone here considering a Z, I suggest holding off until the drivers either mature, or consider something else (though your needs maybe different then mine and it might work perfectly for you)

Pros:

Dolby Live/DTS Connect work flawlessly
Headphone software switch
Great output sound (in regards to uniformity, no static, nice upper limit)

Cons:

Lack of traditional surround upmixing options
Sofware headphoen switch does NOT disable/mute the Dolby Live/DTS Connect output, making it useless if you use those.
SBX is junk but you have no other options available for upmixing.

if you are going to use DTSi/DDL exclusively may as well get a cheap cmedia card with such functions, or a motherboard from asus/gigabyte usually comes bundled in.
any case, i think DTSi sounds better, so just get the part which supports it imho.

soundcards are more for analog audio out Creative new soundcards are pretty bad. The spu inside is much inferior to the Xfi. i think they are using either cheap ARM cores, or even just cmedia codecs. Their analog output parts dont match what Asus is doing. I think Asus is the only mainstream player who builds good soundcard today. Imo xfi titanium hd was the best creative card if you cared for one.
 
Okay, so I am very close to ordering my build from Amazon. How do I know if I need to buy any additional cables? I've added thermal paste, anti-static wrist band, and some plastic ties for cable management. Is there anything I will need like cables for SSD/HDD, etc?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($46.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($117.98 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 3GB Video Card ($449.99 @ Amazon)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DGX 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master HAF XB (Black) ATX Desktop Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80 PLUS Silver Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1415.85
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-25 12:15 EST-0500)
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah, this is going in the OP soon. I knew a release was imminent. Replacing C70.
This thread seems to be more active, so I'll just ask it here. I am thinking about getting an external cooling system for my laptop for the heavy gaming I do. Would you guys recommend this? If so, where should I start my searching?
I think the Cooler Master offerings are quite good.
Would this waterblock plate be a good idea for a reference GTX 670?

I can overclock it to around 1254MHz but it can go over 70 degrees (usually around 73 degrees) in a demanding game with the fan at full tilt.
You might be starting down the rabbithole. If you want some help figuring out a custom loop, I can answer any questions you might have. PM me, or through gtalk. Username@gmail.com
My precious..
P3edfGdl.jpg


This 7950 should arrive today. Now I have to figure a case to put it in. I'm thinking the Shinobi will work great for me I love the sleek and clean look. Monday is build day.
Sweeeeeet.

If you go with the Shinobi, pick up an extra fan or two. That 7950 will dump quite a bit of heat into your system.
Not perfect, but it's a start. Need to do the cabeling a little better.

Can I just start it up and it will boot from the Win8 install DVD or do I have to do change some settings in the BIOS first?

img_1097ndp11.jpg
#1 case below $200 right there. Very nice, looks clean as hell.

You'll need to select the USB drive as the primary boot drive in BIOS.
I looked it up. It's nice but less featured than my 500R. Not that it's a bad case but it's crazy what options open up when you jump even 10-20 USD in price. The case I have has features present in cases 100 USD more. What I really like are things like the right side panel having a nice bulge that looks stylish but also helps with cable management. And plenty of spots for fans.

You should track ambient case temps and all that once you get that up and running.
Wat?
 
So I've heard some less than amazing things about the Western Digital Greens, are the Reds any good?

IIRC the Reds are some of the best and are usually for enterprise style stuff (NAS, etc) but there is some setting you have to change so it can operate like a normal HDD(?).

Someone can correct me here.


Plus it sounds like greens can be ok as long as its not a OS drive
 

DJ_Lae

Member
So two things have been annoying me about my build a couple of weeks back - I should have known my initial boot without issue was too good to be true.

The first I'm less concerned about, it's sleep mode being weird. It goes into sleep mode fine but every other time I try and bring it out, it hangs and the monitor won't get a signal. That or it'll come partway out of sleep mode on its own and hang. I've got logs of what devices are causing the problem (four in total, apparently) and fixed some of the issues by disable wake on mouse and LAN.

It's the sound that's bothering me most. I'm getting a high pitched whine/scratching through my speakers in games, particularly when their audio is low and I have to turn it up. So whatever the onboard sound is outputting is dirty, I guess. Tried updating the drivers, but nothing.

Would buying a cheap card (like the ASUS Xonar) solve the problem, or is there something else I could try at this point?

So I've heard some less than amazing things about the Western Digital Greens, are the Reds any good?

I've got a number of greens and they've been great - you don't want to actually run programs off them, though, they're slow. But they're quiet and great for storing media. Right now I have an old NAS with two 1TB greens and my computer has a 1.5TB and 2TB Green in it to complement my Black and SSD.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Unless I looked at the wrong case, it seems to have less airflow but I think the case I looked at was discontinued. Was it the 100-110 US case?
It has a total of 6 120mm fan mounting spots, most of those also being 140 capable (which is pointless as most 140mm fans are terribad). In terms of air cooling, they're about equal. But, the R4 is completely padded with sound dampening material to make it silent. Things like additional fan mounts on the side panel are pretty unnecessary with today's video cards. It's more of a holdover from the high wattage Fermi days, so people just kind of expect that sort of 'feature', despite it not being overly helpful.
 

Zeth

Member
I've got an old Logitech MX 518 1600dpi. Should I upgrade to a Xornet or a nicer laser Logitech? I'm not up to date on the latest mouse tech.

Definitely need a cheap keyboard, will look into the Logitech K200. My P/S2 dell keyboard is no match for my nice new rig.
 

DTKT

Member
I've got an old Logitech MX 518 1600dpi. Should I upgrade to a Xornet or a nicer laser Logitech? I'm not up to date on the latest mouse tech.

Definitely need a cheap keyboard, will look into the Logitech K200. My P/S2 dell keyboard is no match for my nice new rig.

I've just switched my 518 to a Sensei raw and it's been great so far. The sensor is definitely more precise and much more accurate. Feels great in my hand too.
 
Well made my decision on my build

AMD FX-8350
PNY 2gb GTX 660TI
16gb Ram G-Skill Sniper blah blah
OCZ Vector 4 128gb SSD
WD Blue 500gb HDD
Fractal R4 Case
Seasonic gold plus 600w Pwr Supply
Asus Sabertooth MB

and my precious Dell 23in 10 point touch Monitor.
 

xero273

Member
IIRC the Reds are some of the best and are usually for enterprise style stuff (NAS, etc) but there is some setting you have to change so it can operate like a normal HDD(?).

Someone can correct me here.


Plus it sounds like greens can be ok as long as its not a OS drive

TLER(?) is what I have been told to turn off.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
It has a total of 6 120mm fan mounting spots, most of those also being 140 capable (which is pointless as most 140mm fans are terribad). In terms of air cooling, they're about equal. But, the R4 is completely padded with sound dampening material to make it silent. Things like additional fan mounts on the side panel are pretty unnecessary with today's video cards. It's more of a holdover from the high wattage Fermi days, so people just kind of expect that sort of 'feature', despite it not being overly helpful.
Sounds like good case.

I've got an old Logitech MX 518 1600dpi. Should I upgrade to a Xornet or a nicer laser Logitech? I'm not up to date on the latest mouse tech.

Definitely need a cheap keyboard, will look into the Logitech K200. My P/S2 dell keyboard is no match for my nice new rig.
I was going to get the Xornet but just went higher and got the Storm. Both mice seem really good compared to your normal mice. I guess some would consider the wired nature to be a negative but the performance is great and ergonomics are as well.
 
Everything seems to be pretty good so far. I don't have the video card or old HDDs in yet (and I was reminded by tutorials how they're basically timebombs, I'll prioritize swapping them out), but the only issue so far is that the front case fan that came with the Define R4 isn't working, despite trying to plug it in at several different spots. Thankfully I'd already bought a fan for the empty spot above it, so it's not a problem at a sec.


One other small issue: I used the "SSD mount" feature, that you have to screw in before the motherboard is put in. Because of the way it's faced and mounted on the case, getting the PSU SATA cable in there very nearly didn't happen, due to the thick wires, and even the end of the cable being a 90 degree bend the wrong way. I got the power cable to fit on my very last try, but I want to find an extension cable or something with a straight end (and preferably as little bulk around the connector as possible). I found one or two possibilities on NewEgg so far, but does anyone have any personal experience or recommendations on the subject? I saw suggestions to cut the bulk off of one with a Dremel, as an alternative.

Also, just to be clear, SATA Slimline connectors are a separate thing, right?
 

Aranath

Member
Would anyone mind having a look at the build I've put together?

I'm mostly happy with what I have. Although, I'm a bit torn when it comes to GPUs. I can't decide between the Sapphire 7970 Ghz in the build, the Gigabyte 7970 (http://amzn.to/WlisBY) and the EVGA GTX 670 FTW (http://amzn.to/14iB4EY).

Unfortunately, I'm struggling to find low-profile memory. Will I run into any problems having the taller memory, do you think?

Any advice that you guys can provide at all, would be most appreciated. Bear in mind, I'm in Spain, so certain things are quite difficult to find, especially at half-decent prices. Additionally, I left the US links in for the parts below, just so it would be easier for you to see what I've chosen, because the part selection for Spain on the site is rather limited.

[EDIT] I forgot to mention that the 7970 Ghz will cost me €20 more than the other two cards.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z77 MPOWER ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($107.95 @ Mac Connection)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 3GB Video Card ($427.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT Phantom (White) ATX Full Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair Enthusiast 850W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($22.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VS229H-P 21.5" Monitor ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)

Total: $1595.82 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-25 13:06 EST-0500)
 

DietRob

i've been begging for over 5 years.

mkenyon

Banned
The 7950 I went with has some sort of Vapor X cooling system attached. With that in mind should I still expect it to give off a fair amount of heat in the case.

What should my target temps be for this particular card?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MML1UA/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Watts dissipated is watts dissipated. The efficiency just means it is more efficiently moved from the GPU to the air around the heatsink.

You're not going to have any temperature problems with the card, but if you can quickly get fresh air in and expel the hot stuff, then the fans on your card won't have to spin as high which means a more quiet build.
 
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