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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Lockon

Member
Parts look fine and compatible, hopefully it's just a minor issue. Good luck with troubleshooting.

I just replugged all the wires...and nothing. Same as before. I might bring my pc to a local store if all else fail.

Edit: This is weird. I plugged everything back in, tried to power on the PC, then nothing. So I came to posted here and after I finished, went back to see my PC and it was turned on. Everything is running (fans, mobo, graphic card, etc)...I hope this is it and everything is good. Can you or anyone recommend me to do some kind diagnostics if there might be any other problems?
 

LilJoka

Member
Not a word about RAID in there :/

I've been using RAID on this motherboard for 4 years, it just works when I only have the 2 SATA drives connected. Doesn't even seem to care which ports I plug them to.

Go into raid config and see what It says. It may detect the RAID and enable it.

CTRL I after BIOS screen.
 

LilJoka

Member
I have a serious problem...I just build a new pc and I started installing windows 8.1, Went fine. Install drivers for motherboard and GTX 980, they installed fine.

Then I went to update windows. During update my pc shut down while installing update, now I can't turn it on again. I look inside the case, I see the motherboard's power switch is lit...Does this mean my PSU is busted?

Doubt it.
Reset CMOS by removing the motherboard battery for a few minutes and unplug the PSU from the power socket at the wall.
Replace the battery and try the power button now.

If that fails:
Get a clean small flat head screwdriver. Unplug the power switch header from the motherboard.
Use the flat head screw driver to short out the 2 pins the power switch plugs onto.

If that works your power button has failed on the case.
 
I think so yeah, at least commonly (lottery winners not withstanding). I also remember reading that the Strix has more throttling occurrence. The G1 generally has more OC headroom and doesn't suffer from power or temp throttling like them. I could be wrong.

Not sure if OC headroom is mostly determined by the silicon lottery/binning vs other factors as PCB quality and bios configuration.

You were correct, the G1's what I'm leaning toward now.
 

Lockon

Member
Doubt it.
Reset CMOS by removing the motherboard battery for a few minutes and unplug the PSU from the power socket at the wall.
Replace the battery and try the power button now.

If that fails:
Get a clean small flat head screwdriver. Unplug the power switch header from the motherboard.
Use the flat head screw driver to short out the 2 pins the power switch plugs onto.

If that works your power button has failed on the case.

I just edited my post above:

I just replugged all the wires...and nothing. Same as before. I might bring my pc to a local store if all else fail.

Edit: This is weird. I plugged everything back in, tried to power on the PC, then nothing. So I came to posted here and after I finished, went back to see my PC and it was turned on. Everything is running (fans, mobo, graphic card, etc)...I hope this is it and everything is good. Can you or anyone recommend me to do some kind diagnostics if there might be any other problems?
 

LilJoka

Member
I just edited my post above:

I just replugged all the wires...and nothing. Same as before. I might bring my pc to a local store if all else fail.

Edit: This is weird. I plugged everything back in, tried to power on the PC, then nothing. So I came to posted here and after I finished, went back to see my PC and it was turned on. Everything is running (fans, mobo, graphic card, etc)...I hope this is it and everything is good. Can you or anyone recommend me to do some kind diagnostics if there might be any other problems?

Just because it's wired right doesn't mean the physical switch has not failed. So just shutdown and turn the PC on via the switch to test that for now.

You can check the Event Viewer to see if Windows logged any problems.

If you unplugged from the socket it's likely a CMOS reset fixed it.
 
You were correct, the G1's what I'm leaning toward now.

It's the one I have, and I like it. It has its cons though (size and "noise"; not really noise, just louder fans than MSI or ASUS). But it's a strong overclocker, stays cool, and mine has practically zero coil whine.

When I plug sata cables in my upper two ports, the cable ends touch/press on the fan shroud. And it's been worrying me as I'm plugging and unplugging them while trying to troubleshoot my HDDs problem. Good thing the card is covered in sturdy black aluminum. The fan shrouds on the MSI (which I had previously) are plastic.
 

Lockon

Member
Just because it's wired right doesn't mean the physical switch has not failed. So just shutdown and turn the PC on via the switch to test that for now.

You can check the Event Viewer to see if Windows logged any problems.

If you unplugged from the socket it's likely a CMOS reset fixed it.

I just shut it down and power on again with the power button on the case...and it's working fine.
 
It's the one I have, and I like it. It has its cons though (size and "noise"; not really noise, just louder fans than MSI or ASUS). But it's a strong overclocker, stays cool, and mine has practically zero coil whine.

When I plug sata cables in my upper two ports, the cable ends touch/press on the fan shroud. And it's been worrying me as I'm plugging and unplugging them while trying to troubleshoot my HDDs problem. Good thing the card is covered in sturdy black aluminum. The fan shrouds on the MSI (which I had previously) are plastic.

It looks like it should fit into the case I'm planning to use, so I don't mind the size. I'd rather push the card further and I have a decent set of headphones (Sennheiser PX 360), so noise from the fans won't bother me too much.
 
It looks like it should fit into the case I'm planning to use, so I don't mind the size. I'd rather push the card further and I have a decent set of headphones (Sennheiser PX 360), so noise from the fans won't bother me too much.

It also has quirky DVI ports. They seem to only work properly when connected a certain way (in my case the primary monitor must be connected to the DVI-I port). I spent 2 days troubleshooting it because there is zero documentation about it. Other people online were having problems with the DVI ports too. Mine seems to be completely resolved if I connect the monitors a certain way, not sure if my case is universal.
 
Go into raid config and see what It says. It may detect the RAID and enable it.

CTRL I after BIOS screen.

I suspected I might have faulty cables or faulty ports, so in my attempt at figuring it out with the scientific method I tried the following configurations and noted the resutls:

RAID pair on Ports 0 + 1. OK
RAID pair on Ports 1 + 2. FAIL (only one drive is seen). Using Cable A
RAID pair on Ports 1 + 2. FAIL (only one drive is seen). Using Cable B

RAID pair on Ports 0 + 1. OK. Using Cable B. So Cable B is ok.

Hypothesis: Port 2 is bad?

RAID pair on Ports 0 + 1 RAID OK. HDD on port 3 undetected.

RAID pair on Ports 1 + 3 RAID FAIL. HDD on port 0 detected.

And now I have a headache
 

Croatoan

They/Them A-10 Warthog
Quick question, should I go ddr4 or ddr3? Price isn't an issue but I still don't want to flat waste money if ddr4 isn't better for games.
 
Quick question, should I go ddr4 or ddr3? Price isn't an issue but I still don't want to flat waste money if ddr4 isn't better for games.

? It's not really a choice. If you're on X99 you have to get DDR4, if you're on Z97 you have to get DDR3. And for the record it's basically a wash in terms of performance.
 
It also has quirky DVI ports. They seem to only work properly when connected a certain way (in my case the primary monitor must be connected to the DVI-I port). I spent 2 days troubleshooting it because there is zero documentation about it. Other people online were having problems with the DVI ports too. Mine seems to be completely resolved if I connect the monitors a certain way, not sure if my case is universal.

Thanks for the heads-up, I'm going to be using HDMI (a single monitor) for now.

Might be a problem later on if I move to multiple monitors.
 

kharma45

Member
Quick question, should I go ddr4 or ddr3? Price isn't an issue but I still don't want to flat waste money if ddr4 isn't better for games.

DDR4 is only supported on Haswell-E. For the mainstream chipsets it's still DDR3.

So far DDR4 hasn't brouht any gaming advantages to my knowledge.
 

Durante

Member
? It's not really a choice. If you're on X99 you have to get DDR4, if you're on Z97 you have to get DDR3. And for the record it's basically a wash in terms of performance.
Pretty much. (Though, also for the record, memory performance on X99 is ~2x that on Z97, but not because of DDR4 but rather because it's quad-channel)
 

Gruso

Member
I'm thinking about converting my mini-ITX HTPC to a gaming machine. Here's the modest build (done 2.5 years ago):

ASUS P8H77-I Mini ITX Motherboard $129.00

Ivy Bridge Core-i3 3225... soon (Picked up the 2120 in the meantime, $127)

Corsair CMX4GX3M1A1600C9 4GB (1x4GB) DDR3 $35.00

Intel 330 Series 60GB SSD $95.00

Lian Li PC-Q08B Black HTPC Case $129.00

Seasonic M12II 520W Modular PSU $109.00

(plus other storage, peripherals)

My plan:

  • Upgrade CPU
  • Add GTX 970
  • Double RAM

The obsolete socket (LGA 1155) is a bit of a PITA. I think the CPU choice will come down to an i5-3570 or i7-3770.

Being an Aussie, this upgrade will cost $700-$900. It feels weird laying that amount of cash down to build on an obsolete mobo. A newer mobo would broaden my options, but OTOH it wouldn't add functionality (that I would use), nor would it save money.

Would you do it? Thoughts on the CPU choice?
 

LilJoka

Member
I suspected I might have faulty cables or faulty ports, so in my attempt at figuring it out with the scientific method I tried the following configurations and noted the resutls:

RAID pair on Ports 0 + 1. OK
RAID pair on Ports 1 + 2. FAIL (only one drive is seen). Using Cable A
RAID pair on Ports 1 + 2. FAIL (only one drive is seen). Using Cable B

RAID pair on Ports 0 + 1. OK. Using Cable B. So Cable B is ok.

Hypothesis: Port 2 is bad?

RAID pair on Ports 0 +1 & HDD on port 3. RAID OK. HDD undetected.

RAID pair on Ports 1 + 3 & HDD on port 0. RAID FAIL. HDD detected.

And now I have a headache

This may sound like an odd request, but would you PM me some good pictures of the motherboard?

I'm thinking about converting my mini-ITX HTPC to a gaming machine. Here's the modest build (done 2.5 years ago):



My plan:

  • Upgrade CPU
  • Add GTX 970
  • Double RAM

The obsolete socket (LGA 1155) is a bit of a PITA. I think the CPU choice will come down to an i5-3570 or i7-3770.

Being an Aussie, this upgrade will cost $700-$900. It feels weird laying that amount of cash down to build on an obsolete mobo. A newer mobo would broaden my options, but OTOH it wouldn't add functionality (that I would use), nor would it save money.

Would you do it? Thoughts on the CPU choice?

This is not obsolete at all. The ivy bridge CPUs are about 5-10% slower clock for clock than haswell. Makes no sense to change it for Haswell.
The only disadvantage is that you cant overclock it, so I would advise getting the i7 3770. Still good enough for gaming with top end GPUs.
Getting another 4Gb of Ram and a 970 makes sense.
 

Croatoan

They/Them A-10 Warthog
? It's not really a choice. If you're on X99 you have to get DDR4, if you're on Z97 you have to get DDR3. And for the record it's basically a wash in terms of performance.
I am building a whole new comp. Should I go with x99 or z97 then?

I obviously have to make this decision first because the proc I get depends on it.

If game performance is really a wash then I guess I will go z97.
 

kharma45

Member
I am building a whole new comp. Should I go with x99 or z97 then?

I obviously have to make this decision first because the proc I get depends on it.

If game performance is really a wash then I guess I will go z97.

Depends on your needs and your budget.
 

Croatoan

They/Them A-10 Warthog
Depends on your needs and your budget.
Right now 1080p/60. In 2 or so years, 4k/60. Strictly for gaming.

The difference in price isn't a big deal if it's like 2x the performance or something. If it's like 10% I'd go with the cheaper option.
 
Right now 1080p/60. In 2 or so years, 4k/60. Strictly for gaming.

The difference in price isn't a big deal if it's like 2x the performance or something. If it's like 10% I'd go with the cheaper option.

At 1080p/60 and strictly for gaming means that the small difference in performance isn't worth the price increase.
 

DarkoMaledictus

Tier Whore
I'm thinking about converting my mini-ITX HTPC to a gaming machine. Here's the modest build (done 2.5 years ago):



My plan:

  • Upgrade CPU
  • Add GTX 970
  • Double RAM

The obsolete socket (LGA 1155) is a bit of a PITA. I think the CPU choice will come down to an i5-3570 or i7-3770.

Being an Aussie, this upgrade will cost $700-$900. It feels weird laying that amount of cash down to build on an obsolete mobo. A newer mobo would broaden my options, but OTOH it wouldn't add functionality (that I would use), nor would it save money.

Would you do it? Thoughts on the CPU choice?

I would even say quadrule the ram. 16 gigs would be more future proof. A lot of games are starting to hit that 8 gig barrier.
 

Gruso

Member
$45 to double my current RAM to 8GB, vs $180 for a 16GB kit. I'll hold off! But I'll be happy to go there when I start to see 8GB becoming a bottleneck.

This is not obsolete at all. The ivy bridge CPUs are about 5-10% slower clock for clock than haswell. Makes no sense to change it for Haswell.
The only disadvantage is that you cant overclock it, so I would advise getting the i7 3770. Still good enough for gaming with top end GPUs.
Getting another 4Gb of Ram and a 970 makes sense.
Cheers mate. I take your point about the word 'obsolete' - I think 'discontinued' would have been a better choice. Anyway, feeling good about the plan now.
 

LilJoka

Member
$45 to double my current RAM to 8GB, vs $180 for a 16GB kit. I'll hold off! But I'll be happy to go there when I start to see 8GB becoming a bottleneck.

Cheers mate. I take your point about the word 'obsolete' - I think 'discontinued' would have been a better choice. Anyway, feeling good about the plan now.

8GB is fine, most games tend not to use that much RAM, ive never played MMOs so maybe those do. But your standard FC4, Crysis 3, Project Cars, Batman barely use 2-3GB of Ram. And even COD which requires 6GB of ram to start barely uses anywhere close to that.
 

RGM79

Member
Don't buy Asrock Z77. They never fixed the voltage reporting problem or even really admitted to it. Newer Asrock boards are fine though.

I was one of the giant herd of people who went with the Extreme4 for Ivy Bridge and ended up having to replace it not too much later. I still saw stacks of them at Micro Center not that long ago marked down. Hopefully not too many people are being sucked into buying them.

Thanks for the heads up, I don't personally have any experience with ASRock's Z77 models. Changed the original post's recommendation to a Gigabyte model instead.

You'd need to move to 802.11 AC and use something like this.

Fake edit: That's just for PC though. Whether your other devices support AC (recent Macs and iPhones do) is another question.

AC wireless has more difficulty penetrating walls than N wireless due to the 5GHz signal. I've personally experienced that. I could be wrong, but I think higher end wireless N networking should work for 1080p. Depends on the media bitrate, actually.. I think.

I just replugged all the wires...and nothing. Same as before. I might bring my pc to a local store if all else fail.

Edit: This is weird. I plugged everything back in, tried to power on the PC, then nothing. So I came to posted here and after I finished, went back to see my PC and it was turned on. Everything is running (fans, mobo, graphic card, etc)...I hope this is it and everything is good. Can you or anyone recommend me to do some kind diagnostics if there might be any other problems?
I just shut it down and power on again with the power button on the case...and it's working fine.

Hmm... delayed power button response? No idea. At least it's working now.
 

Lockon

Member
Hmm... delayed power button response? No idea. At least it's working now.

Well, too fast for that. It happened again. I was adjusting my resolution and using internet for a bit...I guess about 5-10 min. then it the pc shut down...I started it again and it shut down after I logged in and started using internet on it. Now it won't turn back on again.

I'm 60-70% pretty sure now though that it might be my cpu/cpu cooler because I had a hard time installing it, and I don't think I did it right...still it fit and thought it might be fine. I had to take the cooler off and put it back in a few times. It took like 15-20 minutes to install it. I didn't reapply thermal paste either because I don't have any isopropyl alcohol to clean it. I went out and bought isopropyl alcohol today. I will have to try installing cpu cooler and applying thermal paste again tomorrow, and hope I do it right this time.
 

The Llama

Member
Is quad channel support going to come down to the mainstream anytime soon (2015-2016)?

No one except Intel knows. Quad vs. dual channel means basically nothing for gaming though. It might get you 1 or 2 extra FPS occasionally, but 99% of the time it's meaningless (for gaming).
 

RGM79

Member
Well, too fast for that. It happened again. I was adjusting my resolution and using internet for a bit...I guess about 5-10 min. then it the pc shut down...I started it again and it shut down after I logged in and started using internet on it. Now it won't turn back on again.

I'm 60-70% pretty sure now though that it might be my cpu/cpu cooler because I had a hard time installing it, and I don't think I did it right...still it fit and thought it might be fine. I had to take the cooler off and put it back in a few times. It took like 15-20 minutes to install it. I didn't reapply thermal paste either because I don't have any isopropyl alcohol to clean it. I went out and bought isopropyl alcohol today. I will have to try installing cpu cooler and applying thermal paste again tomorrow, and hope I do it right this time.

Overheating due to bad cooler install? Next time your computer turns on, use a program like HWMonitor to check temperatures.

I've got a 970 coming and and I'm not running SLI. 650W PSU should be ample, right? Found a good deal on one.
For a GTX 970, 650 watts is more than enough. It's even enough for SLI. However, I can't find any reviews for that unit, although the G1 should be the quality power supply model line. It might be mislabeled - B1 and G1 are two different models of EVGA power supplies, and it says B1 in the title but G1 for product model.

For alternative well-reviewed power supplies, I recommend these:

XFX 550 watt power supply for $50 after $10 mail in rebate. - Kitguru review.
XFX 750 watt power supply for $55 after $20 mail in rebate. - Hardware Secrets review.
OCZ 750 watt fully modular power supply for $79, no rebate. - Jonny Guru review.
 
AC wireless has more difficulty penetrating walls than N wireless due to the 5GHz signal. I've personally experienced that. I could be wrong, but I think higher end wireless N networking should work for 1080p. Depends on the media bitrate, actually.. I think.

That is...disconcerting to hear, at best. I don't have a problem with walls currently, but I'm planning to move to another apartment in May, which may cause difficulties if I've moved to AC by then. I'll probably have to delay changing over my network from N to AC.

No one except Intel knows. Quad vs. dual channel means basically nothing for gaming though. It might get you 1 or 2 extra FPS occasionally, but 99% of the time it's meaningless (for gaming).

Yeah, I was aware of how unimportant it is for gaming. I occasionally dabble in Photoshop and UE4, so that's my only interest (besides wanting the latest technology at affordable prices).
 

Lunar15

Member
Overheating due to bad cooler install? Next time your computer turns on, use a program like HWMonitor to check temperatures.


For a GTX 970, 650 watts is more than enough. It's even enough for SLI. However, I can't find any reviews for that unit, although the G1 should be the quality power supply model line. It might be mislabeled - B1 and G1 are two different models of EVGA power supplies, and it says B1 in the title but G1 for product model.

For alternative well-reviewed power supplies, I recommend these:

XFX 550 watt power supply for $50 after $10 mail in rebate. - Kitguru review.
XFX 750 watt power supply for $55 after $20 mail in rebate. - Hardware Secrets review.
OCZ 750 watt fully modular power supply for $79, no rebate. - Jonny Guru review.

It's the G1. I think I'm going to go for this one because I can actually pick it up in my Tiger Direct store, I just checked. I looked up the Jonny Guru review for the G1 750 PSU review, and it was pretty damn glowing.
 

undecided

Member
Came home today to a computer that won't power on. No display, no POST, no beeps, nothing on the ASRock motherboard's LCD debug display.

The fans all spin up and the lights on the motherboard turn on. Tried removing RAM, Video Card, and hard drives with no change in results. The only other negative symptom is that the second CPU fan is not powering up (both fans are directly plugged into motherboard)

I'm guessing dead motherboard?

Currrent setup: ASRock P67 Extreme4 Gen3, i5 2500K@4.3GHz, 8GB DDR3-1600, Corsair 750W Gold PSU, GTX 970.

In the event that it is the board, is it even worth buying another at this point?
 
Came home today to a computer that won't power on. No display, no POST, no beeps, nothing on the ASRock motherboard's LCD debug display.

The fans all spin up and the lights on the motherboard turn on. Tried removing RAM, Video Card, and hard drives with no change in results. The only other negative symptom is that the second CPU fan is not powering up (both fans are directly plugged into motherboard)

I'm guessing dead motherboard?

Currrent setup: ASRock P67 Extreme4 Gen3, i5 2500K@4.3GHz, 8GB DDR3-1600, Corsair 750W Gold PSU, GTX 970.

In the event that it is the board, is it even worth buying another at this point?

I take it the board's out of warranty? If you can't find a deal on a replacement P67, it's probably time to upgrade.
 

RGM79

Member
Came home today to a computer that won't power on. No display, no POST, no beeps, nothing on the ASRock motherboard's LCD debug display.

The fans all spin up and the lights on the motherboard turn on. Tried removing RAM, Video Card, and hard drives with no change in results. The only other negative symptom is that the second CPU fan is not powering up (both fans are directly plugged into motherboard)

I'm guessing dead motherboard?

Currrent setup: ASRock P67 Extreme4 Gen3, i5 2500K@4.3GHz, 8GB DDR3-1600, Corsair 750W Gold PSU, GTX 970.

In the event that it is the board, is it even worth buying another at this point?

No video output? Are there normally beeps or numbers on the debug display? The non-working second fan makes me think it could be the motherboard, but it (unlikely) could also be the graphics card, although your GTX 970 should be quite new.

If you want to buy a new Z77 motherboard, there's the Gigabyte GA-Z77-DS3H for $112. Cheaper than buying a 4690K and H97/Z97 motherboard for around $300 USD.
 
So I'm looking for new gaming laptop. The max I'm willing to pay is $1000. In 2011 i spent $1600 on MSI GX740 and it served me well...

This time my budget is a lower because I'm thinking to replace my laptop every 2 years, instead of 3... so I was browsing newegg.com hoping to find something good.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152646

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152668

Can you please take a look, advise and/or suggest one of the above or something else... Thanks
 

Gruso

Member
So I'm looking for new gaming laptop. The max I'm willing to pay is $1000. In 2011 i spent $1600 on MSI GX740 and it served me well...

This time my budget is a lower because I'm thinking to replace my laptop every 2 years, instead of 3... so I was browsing newegg.com hoping to find something good.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152646

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152668

Can you please take a look, advise and/or suggest one of the above or something else... Thanks
Head over here man :)

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=745783

K.Jack is your spirit animal.
 

undecided

Member
No video output? Are there normally beeps or numbers on the debug display? The non-working second fan makes me think it could be the motherboard, but it (unlikely) could also be the graphics card, although your GTX 970 should be quite new.
The graphics card is only a couple of months old and has been lightly used. Plus I took it out and none of it works anyway.

I've never actually had an issue with the motherboard in the past so I have never looked at the debug LCD. The ASRock guide says it is supposed to display a 2 digit code with whatever your issue is (including no RAM).

If you want to buy a new Z77 motherboard, there's the Gigabyte GA-Z77-DS3H for $112. Cheaper than buying a 4690K and H97/Z97 motherboard for around $300 USD.
I may look into that one.. I would have to buy new RAM for the 4690K as well so that is another $150+


I take it the board's out of warranty? If you can't find a deal on a replacement P67, it's probably time to upgrade.

I've had the board for a few years so the warranty is long gone.
 

RGM79

Member
The graphics card is only a couple of months old and has been lightly used. Plus I took it out and none of it works anyway.

I've never actually had an issue with the motherboard in the past so I have never looked at the debug LCD. The ASRock guide says it is supposed to display a 2 digit code with whatever your issue is (including no RAM).


I may look into that one.. I would have to buy new RAM for the 4690K as well so that is another $150+




I've had the board for a few years so the warranty is long gone.

Z77 and Z97 both use DDR3, you should be able to reuse your current RAM should you want to move to Z97. I think the Z77 motherboard is still a better option to get back up and running, though.
 
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