NCIX has the be quiet dark rock 3 if you must have a beefy air cooler for $75.
I still maintain though that the Hyper 212 would be fine.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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NCIX has the be quiet dark rock 3 if you must have a beefy air cooler for $75.
I still maintain though that the Hyper 212 would be fine.
Here's an alternative
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/phanteks-cpu-cooler-phtc12dxbk
I hate being thermally limited with my overclocks and running cooler can help stability by reducing the vrm temps since the CPU radiates less heat through the board. So I always recommend spending a fair amount on a cooler when doing proper Overclocking. You may find your chip is high leakage (low vcore but runs hotter and overclocks better) and in this case a better cooler will let you keep pushing and maximise the chip potential.
Thanks for being extremely helpful. I think I'll go with the dark rock 3 at it does seem quietest, after I do some review digging.
I do want a bit more 'overhead' since I am upgrading my first ever build from 2011, and I don't want to screw it up.
They will all be quiet when running day to day activities. From my experience with dark rock, it's fans are quiet because they are so slow, so when stress testing you can't jack up the fan speeds to keep temps low. It's a bad strategy.
Best strategy is get high rpm fans and run them slow daily and high rpm when stress testing. Any fan at 6-800rpm is very quiet. You can control the fan speeds using motherboard software.
On my silver arrow extreme I had 2500rpm fans that I ran at a silent 600rpm daily. For my prime95 runs it meant I had a lot more headroom.
Whoo! I'm posting from my newly set up rig. I had some minor setbacks because I bent some pins on the CPU, like one was 90 degrees of bent. But a couple hours of fiddling and it's working as intended.
I have one issue though, my computer refuses to boot with my HD5870 inserted, I read up on it and it seems the motherboard can be a bit finicky with certain GPUs, some fellows solved it by putting in an old GPU and his system booted fine. Gonna do a bios update and see if it works.
I did notice settling in the GPU is a bit finicky on this motherboard as I had some minor issues installing an old (and I mean old) Geforce 9600, but you could tell when it was actually resting properly in the slot, so I'm hoping it's just that and not my GPU being borked. It sucks because my 5870 was bottlenecked by the CPU and now it's the exact reverse, except even worse :lol. Fuck me.
I have one issue though, my computer refuses to boot with my HD5870 inserted, I read up on it and it seems the motherboard can be a bit finicky with certain GPUs, some fellows solved it by putting in an old GPU and his system booted fine. Gonna do a bios update and see if it works.
I did notice settling in the GPU is a bit finicky on this motherboard as I had some minor issues installing an old (and I mean old) Geforce 9600, but you could tell when it was actually resting properly in the slot, so I'm hoping it's just that and not my GPU being borked. It sucks because my 5870 was bottlenecked by the CPU and now it's the exact reverse, except even worse :lol. Fuck me.
Anyone have a spare HD5870 lying around? 
Hey dudes, computer newbie here , I built a pc back in 2010 and have 4gb of ram. Wanna upgrade to 8gb. I have these ram sticks now
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303
Its out of stock, so my question is what sticks should I buy that are similar to them. I know its a simple question, but figure I would as you guys as you guys helped me built my pc 4 years ago. I have room for 2 more sticks in my motherboard.
, I built a pc back in 2010 and have 4gb of ram. Wanna upgrade to 8gb. I have these ram sticks now http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303
Its out of stock, so my question is what sticks should I buy that are similar to them. I know its a simple question, but figure I would as you guys as you guys helped me built my pc 4 years ago. I have room for 2 more sticks in my motherboard.
In Power Option > Advanced, the drives are probably set to turn off after X minutes. If it's turning off too quickly for you, they can be set to never to turn off or increase the minutes. Either way, it shouldn't decrease the life of the drives.
Thanks, never thought to check there. I thought it would automatically be set to never or something, being in high performance mode and all. Much better now.
You'd need a new motherboard too. IMO it's not worth it, just overclock your 2500k and you'll get the same performance in most games.
LegendofJoe
Member
I finally committed myself to building a PC. Here's what I've just about decided to go with:
Case - NZXT Phantom 530
PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2
Motherboard - ASUS Z97-PRO LGA 1150 Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel
GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 970 Superclocked 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5
CPU - Intel Core i5-4690K Devil's Canyon Quad-Core 3.5GHz LGA 1150
Memory - G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 1866 SDRAM
Storage - Crucial MX100 256GB SATA III MLC Internal SSD, and Seagate Hybrid Drive 2TB MLC/8GB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s NCQ SSHD
Optical Drive - ASUS Black Blu-ray Drive SATA Model
The Motherboard has on board Wireless and Bluetooth and I've already bought the case, PSU, and Blu-ray drive. All together it comes out to around $1350 in total.
Case - NZXT Phantom 530
PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2
Motherboard - ASUS Z97-PRO LGA 1150 Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel
GPU - EVGA GeForce GTX 970 Superclocked 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5
CPU - Intel Core i5-4690K Devil's Canyon Quad-Core 3.5GHz LGA 1150
Memory - G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 1866 SDRAM
Storage - Crucial MX100 256GB SATA III MLC Internal SSD, and Seagate Hybrid Drive 2TB MLC/8GB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s NCQ SSHD
Optical Drive - ASUS Black Blu-ray Drive SATA Model
The Motherboard has on board Wireless and Bluetooth and I've already bought the case, PSU, and Blu-ray drive. All together it comes out to around $1350 in total.
Decided to build a PC with my son so was checking out this thread. Last time I built a gaming PC was probably around 2003 and before that I used to basically upgrade the thing once a year (man that was expensive, but it seemed like graphics cards didn't last as long back then from a tech standpoint...things seem so much better now as I had an Asus gaming laptop that lasted me about 4 years).
Anyway, it looked like the small form factor build hadn't been updated in a bit. Would a 980 fit in a smaller case and not having cooling issues and such? Anyone know of a good, small build that can sit in the living room and not be louder than a Wii U, XBO, or PS4?
Basically I want to build something that can play 1080p with graphics turned up to max and do 60 fps or better....possible in a small form factor?
Anyway, it looked like the small form factor build hadn't been updated in a bit. Would a 980 fit in a smaller case and not having cooling issues and such? Anyone know of a good, small build that can sit in the living room and not be louder than a Wii U, XBO, or PS4?
Basically I want to build something that can play 1080p with graphics turned up to max and do 60 fps or better....possible in a small form factor?
Are you thinking microATX or mini-ITX? Mini-ITX is smaller but more restrictive. If you just google those phrases you'll find plenty of examples of cases so you can get an idea of size.
Also, whats your budget?
As small as I can get it but have it be powerful and last a few years without upgrade. No budget limit. Small cases weren't a thing back when I last built, so not up on the terminology on those sizes, but will Google it.
Nvidia is probably waiting for AMD to push out the 390X before they launch a card faster than 980. 390X will likely be out Q2-Q3 this year. Then people expect Nvidia to drop their 980 Ti or whatever, with a 384-bit bus and 2560-3072 shaders or so. I just hope they improve SLI technology, since AMD is really dominating multi card right now. 980 is good if you have a big budget and want top single GPU performance, but getting 980 SLI is a joke compared to 290X Crossfire.
Fractal Node 304 or Silverstone RVZ01 cases will do what you need.
TC McQueen
Member
I dunno, if he's not too familiar with small cases, something like the HAF Stacker 915F might be a better choice for him, since it gives him more space to deal with stuff like cables and what not, while still being more compact than a mid-tower rig.
Really don't think it's that hard, I've had a total newbie install into a CM Elite 130. Build outside the chassis first is the key.
okay pcgaf, I need some advice, I`m having a hard time figuring out what type of motherboard I need to get. I know what features I need, I just don't know witch one to buy. okay, so what I need is a mother board that can get a good overclock with a 4790K, something that can handle 2 gtx970 in sli, and most importently, I need something with Wi-Fi. The reason I need something with Wi-Fi, is because of the way my internet is set up. also, I do know that I don't need a motherboard with Wi-Fi but I would like to try get one to make it easier on myself. so in short, please help, because right now, I am completely lost.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
I'm in the market for a new monitor. That $800 ASUS G-Sync monitor with the 2560x1440 resolution is probably the best thing to get right now, but I can never find it in stock for the MSRP and I'm not sure I want to spend $800 on a monitor anyway. I'm also fine sticking with 1080p for a while.
So, I have a question for those in the know. How much is the difference between a G-Sync monitor and a typical 144hz monitor in terms of being able to turn off V-Sync and not worry about screen tearing?
I've been eyeing this other ASUS monitor:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2HH7G0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
It looks like a pretty damn good display for the price, but I'm wondering if there are any better options.
So, I have a question for those in the know. How much is the difference between a G-Sync monitor and a typical 144hz monitor in terms of being able to turn off V-Sync and not worry about screen tearing?
I've been eyeing this other ASUS monitor:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2HH7G0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
It looks like a pretty damn good display for the price, but I'm wondering if there are any better options.
You have a few options, assuming you're in the US.
- Wait for the GTX 960, due in the second half of this month January. It's said to cost a bit over $200, though. If you don't mind waiting and spending a bit more money, it may be worth it, but it'll depend on how it compares to the R9 290 which is at the same price level of $200-250.
- Wait for the XFX R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation to go on sale - sometimes it drops to $200, and a bit less. Last time it did was the 25th of December. It's better performing than the GTX 760.
- Get the R9 285 2GB now. It's a decent card - not quite as good in raw power as the R9 280X, but it's a newer design that benefits from the latest AMD driver features like VSR/DSR. For $180 there are two choices, XFX or Powercolor, both have good reviews (XFX / Powercolor)
Hey dudes, computer newbie here
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303
Its out of stock, so my question is what sticks should I buy that are similar to them. I know its a simple question, but figure I would as you guys as you guys helped me built my pc 4 years ago. I have room for 2 more sticks in my motherboard.
You can get 2 x 2GB of G.Skill DDR3-1600 RAM for $35. There's also 2 x 4GB of Team Zeus Yellow DDR3-1600 RAM for $59 you can drop in alongside your existing ram for a total of 12GB.
What case do you have? Motherboards with built-in wifi come in either mITX or ATX size. The cheapest ATX motherboard with built in wifi is the ASRock Z97 Extreme6/AC for $158. Otherwise, I'd recommend something like the ATX Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI for $117 and pair it with a good wifi adaptor like the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I for $33. It's slightly cheaper to go with the separate wifi adaptor.
In terms of overclocking both motherboards should serve you well, although I think the ASRock Z97 has better power phase support which in theory is better for higher overclocking. Unless you want extremely high clock, either motherboard will be fine.
In my own experience with a 144Hz monitor, as long as the framerate is above ~90 or so, I don't notice any tearing (or any real difference, as a practical matter).
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
So what you're saying is that the difference is still pretty noticeable on frame rates below 90?
Depends on the game, tbh. Some games tear like crazy and its noticeable, but for the ones that don't tear much, you probably won't notice any more than you would on a normal 60Hz display.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
I think I'll just wait and get a G-Sync monitor, then.
I've been using a 24" 1920x1200 60hz LG monitor since 2008. It still works fine, but I'm definitely looking for a substantial improvement when it comes to screen tearing.
the case is a corsair 750d, also is the sound on the gigabyte good? I may do what your with the gigabyte as I can get the adapter for free. also, how about the Gigabyte ud5h would that be a good mobo for what your suggesting?
Both the Gigabyte and ASRock have the Realtek ALC1150 audio chipset, which is pretty common as far as audio chipsets go, and will be enough for anyone who isn't an audiophile. If you want something better, Gigabyte also offers the GA-G1.SNIPER Z97 for $136 which has the fancier Creative Sound Core 3D audio chipset and a socket with an amp you can swap out.
Budget: 800 to 1000 ,Portugal
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming-2, Gaming-5, Emulation-4 (PS2/Wii), Video Editing-3, Streaming games in HD-3, 3D/Model work-1, General Usage-4 (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
Monitor Resolution: 1080p(also looking for a monitor as well)
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
I'd like to play recent AAA games at 1080p60fps at very high or max settings, like Far Cry 3, Wolfenstein New Order, Arma 3, with at least decent AA.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? In the next 2 months at least.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes,
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming-2, Gaming-5, Emulation-4 (PS2/Wii), Video Editing-3, Streaming games in HD-3, 3D/Model work-1, General Usage-4 (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
Monitor Resolution: 1080p(also looking for a monitor as well)
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
I'd like to play recent AAA games at 1080p60fps at very high or max settings, like Far Cry 3, Wolfenstein New Order, Arma 3, with at least decent AA.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? In the next 2 months at least.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes,
cyen
Member
Lisboa? Do you have parts to reuse like HDD? Case?
Yes, close to Lisboa. No parts to reuse, except for a external DVD reader/writer.
What's a good combo for low cost CPU+GPU for gaming at 2K at least at 30fps? I'm trying to find a cheap option, performant with Dolphin emulation, that runs cool and fits in a small case. I'm using an A10-5800k right now and have a 450w psu. I was thinking of getting an A10-7850k but I don't think it's the best or most effective value at $150. I have an old Radeon 5870 but it doesn't fit in the smaller case.
cyen
Member
This is what i would build for that money:
The gpu is the tricky part,i would spend 100€ extra and get a 970Gtx, but for now i would wait for janurary 22nd to see the performance and price of 960gtx.
CPU: i5 4590K - http://www.globaldata.pt/processador-intel-core-i5-4690k-3-5ghz-socket-1150.html - 234,91 €
MB: http://www.globaldata.pt/motherboard-msi-z97-pc-mate.html - 82,90€
HDD: Seagate 1TB - http://www.globaldata.pt/disco-seagate-1tb-sata-iii-64mb.html - 52,90 €
SSD: Crucial MX100 128GB - http://www.globaldata.pt/disco-ssd-crucial-mx100-128gb-sata-iii.html - 66,90€
Case: CoolerMaster N300 - http://www.globaldata.pt/caixa-atx-cooler-master-n300-n2-usb-3-0.html - 38,90 €
RAM : 8GB Gskill 1600 - http://www.globaldata.pt/g-skill-kit-8gb-ddr3-1600mhz-ripjawsx-cl9.html - 73,90€
PSU - Corsair CX600W - http://www.globaldata.pt/fonte-corsair-cx-600w-80.html - 64,90€
Monitor - BenQ 24' GL2460 2ms http://www.globaldata.pt/monitor-benq-24-gl2460-2ms.html - 124,79€
Total without GPU: 740,10 €
Goldenmoney
Member
Good info here: https://dolphin-emu.org/docs/faq/
They do not recommend AMD cpus, nor will anyone in this thread.
Emulation is all about the CPU and AMD doesn't get close to what Intel has with Haswell.
This is it in the PCXS2 benchmark http://www.overclock.net/t/1402557/...y-fast-at-emulation-20-over-ivy-30-over-sandy
and here it is in Dolphin vs the 7850K http://images.anandtech.com/graphs/graph7852/61736.png
and more Dolphin on Reddit http://www.reddit.com/r/emulation/comments/2ekafq/how_to_benchmark_dolphin/
Yes, never intended to run Dolphin on this build. Thanks for the link.
I know AMD does not compete with Intel in raw computing power. I am not asking what the ideal option is, I'm asking for suggestions under certain cost and power constraints. I'd like to keep upgrade costs under $200, with an additional $50 available if need be. Going Intel means getting a new mobo and a dedicated GPU, which are additional costs. I am not opposed to that route but I'd like to find an option that costs roughly the same for increased performance instead of springing for a top-of-the-line chip. I have a 450w psu and a microATX case. Whatever I buy must work under these constraints.
The 7850K simply isn't worth it as an $150 upgrade from the 5800K. What case do you have? It's hard to recommend anything without knowing the limitations of the case. Perhaps for now you should get a power supply upgrade and a graphics card, and save for an upgrade to Intel in the future for better performance in Dolphin.
The case is a Rosewill FBM-02.
In the office, I have a beefier (but outdated) PC with an i7 920 and a Radeon 5870. For games I have the option of in-home streaming, but that's less than ideal. I don't want a bigger case for the PC in the living room. Need something small, cool, and quiet. Don't need bleeding edge performance.
Well, if you don't want to upgrade the power supply, then with 450 watts, you can get the GTX 750 Ti, which is comparable to the 5870. The EVGA GTX 750 Ti Superclocked is currently $120 after $20 rebate.
Otherwise, you could get this EVGA 600 watt power supply for $45 after $20 rebate (or the Rosewill Capstone 750 watt power supply for $50 after $20 rebate) and the R9 285 for $180 which will be a large performance boost from the 5870. There are two choices for the R9 285, XFX or Powercolor, both have good reviews (XFX / Powercolor). I believe both cards should fit, but I can't find any details on that Rosewill case's graphics card length clearance. You might have to measure it yourself.
Hey, thanks. This is exactly what I was looking for.
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
What is the best way to wipe a SSD and start from scratch with max performance?
Pretty sure you don't have to do anything special, just format it like you would a normal drive.
I'm looking to buy a new CPU/Motherboard within the next near future. I feel like my 2500k is starting to show it's age and I want something new.
I'm looking at the 4790k currently, but I see that Broadwell and Sky Lake are slated for this year. Would I be better off just waiting until they drop, or just pull the trigger on the 4790k?
Another concern is future proofing, and since CPUs and motherboards are the most complicated components to replace, I want a motherboard that at least supports DDR4 for when I eventually want to buy some of that.
Comments/advice welcome
I'm looking at the 4790k currently, but I see that Broadwell and Sky Lake are slated for this year. Would I be better off just waiting until they drop, or just pull the trigger on the 4790k?
Another concern is future proofing, and since CPUs and motherboards are the most complicated components to replace, I want a motherboard that at least supports DDR4 for when I eventually want to buy some of that.
Comments/advice welcome
If you want DDR4 right now, you have to go X99, which means the 5820k.
Really though, an overclocked 2500k will perform as well as a 4790k in most games. Are there any games in particular you're not happy with the performance of?
There are currently no mobo's that support both DDR3 and DDR4, so you're right. To use DDR4 you need to use X99/Haswell-E. Maybe with Intel's next consumer socket they'll have mobo's that use both DDR3 and DDR4 but that's just speculation.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
There's no eventually. DDR4 is an 'either or' situation. You either have a motherboard that only uses DDR4, or you have one that doesn't. If you have one, then you need a Haswell-E processor.
edit: wait, am i actually mistaken?
edit2: no i'm not.
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