TheLegendOfMart
Banned
No difference other than the size of memory.
If you run a 4K monitor then maybe yes, I wouldn't buy one for future proofing though as DX12 is right around the corner.
I think my CPU might have gotten messed up. I have a 4770k and was oc'ed to 4.0ghz a while back and well recently I discovered my cpu fan had somehow gotten lose and was half on (don't ask how that happened because idk lol.) I tightened the fan back on but the thing is I'm getting crazy temps on my cpu now especially if it's oc'ed. On idle without being oc'ed, I'll get a temp of around 40c but when it's like at 10-20% load it'll go anywhere from 50c-80c. Oc'ed idle gives me like 50c-60c which can sometimes go to even 70-80c. I reapplied thermal grease and everything but it's still running with those crazy temps. Does anyone have any possible insight about this? Could my cpu be damaged and if it is I'm guessing I'm going to have to replace it or can I go through the warranty process?
Sounds like your heatsink is not on properly, and thus, not fully making contact with the CPU. Or, the CPU fan isn't working correctly. Redo the heatsink and watch to see if the fan is spinning up correctly.I think my CPU might have gotten messed up. I have a 4770k and was oc'ed to 4.0ghz a while back and well recently I discovered my cpu fan had somehow gotten lose and was half on (don't ask how that happened because idk lol.) I tightened the fan back on but the thing is I'm getting crazy temps on my cpu now especially if it's oc'ed. On idle without being oc'ed, I'll get a temp of around 40c but when it's like at 10-20% load it'll go anywhere from 50c-80c. Oc'ed idle gives me like 50c-60c which can sometimes go to even 70-80c. I reapplied thermal grease and everything but it's still running with those crazy temps. Does anyone have any possible insight about this? Could my cpu be damaged and if it is I'm guessing I'm going to have to replace it or can I go through the warranty process?
First time, someone has posted pics of 540 air with bad cable management. Redo you cables asap.Took a couple pics after I installed a couple of white cathode tube lights in my case.
I feared they would be too bright but I am happy with them. Good idea if your case hasn't got lighting that lets you see your shiny new componentsBut tbh, the insides of my comp are a work in progress. Graphics cards ain't exactly a looker and nor is the beige/brown Noctua.
I have a cooler master hyper 212 evo.What CPU cooler do you have?
Sounds like your heatsink is not on properly, and thus, not fully making contact with the CPU. Or, the CPU fan isn't working correctly. Redo the heatsink and watch to see if the fan is spinning up correctly.
Sounds like your heatsink is not on properly, and thus, not fully making contact with the CPU. Or, the CPU fan isn't working correctly. Redo the heatsink and watch to see if the fan is spinning up correctly.
First time, someone has posted pics of 540 air with bad cable management. Redo you cables asap.
I have a cooler master hyper 212 evo.
I have a cooler master hyper 212 evo.
Hmmmm, I'll have to check it again but when I screwed it back and on and checked it I saw both fans spinning.
Do these crazy temps affect the motherboard in any way? If so I'll stop using it asap so I don't do any more damage.
Yeah I know it needs sorting, that mess of red and yellow at the bottom is from the lights.
But what should I do to neaten it, as I'm only a novice builder? Should I cable-tie some of the wires together? And re-route some cables?
That should be sufficient for the CPU.
Nah the cpu will shut off when it gets too hot. None of the temps you posted are dangerous.
Once it gets close to 90c it'll start to throttle back performance to reduce the heat. If it hits something 105c it will shut down automatically. You're good to keep using it, definitely check if the heatsink is on properly though.
I suggest you check to see if you connected the CPU fan to the right connector on the motherboard.
All wires should be on the other side (PSU) of the case and only go through the closest hole to where they need to connect. Route the cables so it's the least visible. And, their length should only be as long as need. Any extra should rest and be hidden on the other side.
Yeah, I think I was worried that I didn't stress the connection from the cable to the motherboard too much so I left some 'slack' on the cables
Bit silly I know but I'm gonna have a little tinker to sort this out...
Here's mine for comparison.
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Generally, you want front as intake. Top and back as exhaust. And, that's my setup.Oh wow. Puts mine to shame lol.
Very interesting from my POV though with the fans.
What is your set-up there? Two front intakes, one rear exhaust, and what are the top two fans? One exhaust on the right and the left intake?
As I'm getting a couple new fans but not sure yet the orientation.
Generally, you want front as intake. Top and back as exhaust. And, that's my setup.
OK then I'll have to do that. I ended up just putting it back to stock settings just in case. Should it be screwed back on tightly or just tight enough? If it is working properly what should I do with the cpu?
OK then I'll have to do that. I ended up just putting it back to stock settings just in case. Should it be screwed back on tightly or just tight enough? If it is working properly what should I do with the cpu?
I'm not all cheerleading into brads or nothing like that but I have never had any of the SP 120 or SP140 fans that I have bought die on me. And I have had roughly 12 sets of SP120's and I just bought two sets of SP140's for the H110iGT in my Haswell-E build.I almost bought a set of those. I was going to put the white rings on them.
I ended up going with some really cheap 120mm ones instead.
Very interesting job on the sleeve cables there pertaining to the graphics cards there. You basically just looped that 2 pin connector around to eliminate the slack? Because what I just did with the custom cables I got for the Supernova g2 1300w is basically leave them so theres like a loop you have similar to the way you tie your shoe you kind of have a bow and they are both uniform but you have that 2 pin sleeved portion of the cable that sticks out like a shoelace tie.Here's mine for comparison.
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Yes. I just looped the 6-pin cables around the one 8-pin cables to shortened them so they don't stick out like a sore thumb.Very interesting job on the sleeve cables there pertaining to the graphics cards there. You basically just looped that 2 pin connector around to eliminate the slack? Because what I just did with the custom cables I got for the Supernova g2 1300w is basically leave them so theres like a loop you have similar to the way you tie your shoe you kind of have a bow and they are both uniform but you have that 2 pin sleeved portion of the cable that sticks out like a shoelace tie.
Guess I know what I'm doing today. Which cables did you order? I will have to take a pic as I haven't dealt with it in a couple days.Yes. I just looped the 6-pin cables around the one 8-pin cables to shortened them so they don't stick out like a sore thumb.
Guess I know what I'm doing today. Which cables did you order? I will have to take a pic as I haven't dealt with it in a couple days.
within the next few weeks. please do!
They are actually pretty decent fans. Move a lot of air and are really quiet, silentpc review is fond of them too and their testing regiment is legitimate. I have no idea how /why they were falling off. It's a possibility it's damage from hitting it with a vacuum, but I don't remember doing such a thing. I do vacuum the area a lot though. Both times strange noise was coming from computer, I take off the front door and I see the fan isn't spinning because it's jammed from the fallen off blade.
For the life of me I cannot seek to find anyone (Amazon, Newegg, etc) selling a black, sleeved, dual 8pin (or 6+2), power cable (VGA). Everything is either a bundle, extension or two separate 8pin cables. How hard can it be? GAF?
Can anyone locate some updated GPU benchmarks for Diablo 3. I know just about anything will run it, but I am looking for the best price to performance for just this one game haha. It is all I play, so might as well take a look.
What budget do you have for a new graphics card and what sort of settings do you want to play at? Is your current graphics card not cutting it?
My current graphics card was cutting it too much shall we say haha (970 SLI). I just want the minimum I can get away with at 1080p60, max £100.
Hey guys! Im about to buy a case for my build and I just stumbled upon the Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-01 case, is this a good buy?
I've been having some trouble with (I assume) the AMD graphics driver on the PC I built a few months ago.
Every once in a blue moon, the screen will turn a solid color and won't respond to any input. I'm then forced to reset.
Other times, I'll wake the screen from sleep to find a BSOD, with the message "system exception not handled atikmdag.sys"
Would reinstalling the graphics driver help? Seems like the graphics card has trouble with waking up from sleep?
I've got:
AMD FX-6350 @stock
ASUS m5-a97 r.2.0 MB
MSI R9 270x
I haven't updated the motherboard BIOS since I was under the impression that I shouldn't unless something was wrong, but would this be a scenario where I should update?
Is it possible to copy the contents of a manufacturer restore partition to an external drive or optical media, then use that instead of the partition to restore the system if I ever have to?
Not sure how recovery partitions behave, but wouldn't cloning the disk (along with MBR) work?
But what's the point really, if I may ask? Planning on deleting the recovery partition to use full 1TB?
So I ended up getting this Dell Inspiron 660 on sale for $250 after a coupon. Sure, it's a pre-made system, but I'd have had to pay around that much for just the i5 4460 that it comes with and a motherboard. I think this should be satisfactory for the foundation of a decent budget rig, yes?
I'm still planning on getting a 750Ti later on, although I'll need to get a better PSU.
Is it possible to copy the contents of a manufacturer restore partition to an external drive or optical media, then use that instead of the partition to restore the system if I ever have to?
That was pretty much the plan. On my past PCs, I always made a separate partition for just the OS and non-game programs so that if it ever became necessary to format the whole thing, I could just delete the OS partition and any games in the other partition since they obviously wouldn't work without re-installation.
You won't need to overclock your CPU before getting the new graphics card, it will work together no problem. You can just install the new graphics card first and see how games run. If it's still kind of lacking in performance, then you can go ahead and try overclocking.
It's a decent case but it won't fit the Hyper 212 Evo CPU cooler I recommended you, and I thought you were looking for a compact PC? If you still want a compact PC, you should be looking for mATX cases to go along with the mATX motherboard I recommended you.
So I have given everything some thought and decided to just say fuck it and get a better GPU than the r9 290. Should I get a GTX 970 or a r9 290x? I am leaning towards a GTX 970, but there are so many different ones available (asus strix & msi etc), that I have no idea on which one is a good fit.
I still plan on it but I'm having a difficult time finding the case you recommended at a good price.
Is there any cons to a microATX instead of midtower case?
With a budget of about $500, is it possible to build a micro gaming rig? The toughest game I'd want it to handle would be Evolve.
(US currency)
edit: alternatively, would it be easier to go with the Alienware alpha?
http://www.cnet.com/products/alienware-alpha/
Is that sound card any good ? I have never seen that model before.
X99-A has good onboard audio so unless it's top quality card you can probably safely skip it
Also Mugen 4 is very nice cooler for 30$ less.
And last thing SSD - 850 is best and greatest but there are much cheaper not much slower alternatives.
Guys, my friend want a help with a build. Her current PC is pretty old, so time to change!
She is not sure if she wants to overclock, but she may decide to do it, which is why I included a cooler and two extra fans. Her case is the NZXT PHAN-003PK (does it fit all?) and I also included a wireless adapter (not sure if the X99-A already includes it. Also, I don't need to put an extra wired adapter, right?
Finally, is there anything I can change to make it cheaper while keeping the same power?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 CPU Cooler ($76.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus X99-A ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($176.94 @ Adorama)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($158.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB STRIX Video Card ($554.00 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($19.96 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: SIIG IC-510111-S2 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($42.88 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Linksys WUSB6300 802.11a/b/g/n/ac USB 3.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($25.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1689.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-16 17:02 EST-0500
Yeah, there's definitely some things that can be changed to optimize costs. The Phanteks case is fine, PCPartPicker does a good job of warning you if there's any physical incompatibilities.
Do you really need a DVD drive and sound card, for example? DVD drives are a lot less useful than they used to be a few years ago, and it can be safely dropped unless your friend specifically needs one. I'm not even sure that sound card is any better than some motherboard integrated sound chipsets.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($394.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI X99S SLI Plus ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($202.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($174.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($554.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($25.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1523.36
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-16 17:19 EST-0500
The Phanteks cooler I substituted in is a very good cooler, often compared to the Noctua NH-D14 and NH-D15, performing somewhere in between.
Changed the motherboard to the MSI model which has good reviews, should be more than good enough for your friend.
I found slightly cheaper but faster 2400MHz memory, also by Crucial.
I changed the SSD from the 850 Pro to the 850 Evo. Both are excellent SSDs, the Evo is not that big of a "downgrade".
The MSI GTX 980 is the same price as the Asus model, both feature semi-fanless running modes, but I'm almost sure that the MSI has better power design for overclocking.
Changed the USB wifi adaptor for a cheaper Gigabyte PCI-E model. The Gigabyte wifi adaptor has more features and the antenna is on a wire, which allows you to place it higher for better reception.