"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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A bit of an odd one here.

I'm looking to build a media center PC because my old one just died, it's basically to connect to my television. It will focus on Film and TV but I was looking into trying to set up something that could equally handle some retro console emulation and indie Steam kind of games, nothing too taxing, I do most my gaming on consoles anyway.

Budget would be £500, UK. But preferably as low as I could get away with it. Steady speed with no issues, as silent as possible would be the only immediate requirements.
 
A bit of an odd one here.

I'm looking to build a media center PC because my old one just died, it's basically to connect to my television. It will focus on Film and TV but I was looking into trying to set up something that could equally handle some retro console emulation and indie Steam kind of games, nothing too taxing, I do most my gaming on consoles anyway.

Budget would be £500, UK. But preferably as low as I could get away with it. Steady speed with no issues, as silent as possible would be the only immediate requirements.

Are you re-using hard drives/ssd's?
Retro consoles = N64 and older?
Do you use optical drive? Blu Ray?
 
Are you re-using hard drives/ssd's?
Retro consoles = N64 and older?
Do you use optical drive? Blu Ray?

1. I'm only carrying across a 2 TB disk with random media stuff, have Netflix and Spotify which I forgot to mention but anything under the sun these days can take that so.

2. Up to Ps2, can't give up on that MediEvil 2 ha

3. Not really, Ps4 already got a BR so if it's a big difference, I'll pass.

It's basically the very best for the purpose at a bare minimum cost, I'll not be looking at playing anything new on high settings in this baby.
 
1. I'm only carrying across a 2 TB disk with random media stuff, have Netflix and Spotify which I forgot to mention but anything under the sun these days can take that so.

2. Up to Ps2, can't give up on that MediEvil 2 ha

3. Not really, Ps4 already got a BR so if it's a big difference, I'll pass.

It's basically the very best for the purpose at a bare minimum cost, I'll not be looking at playing anything new on high settings in this baby.

Something like this maybe

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor (£51.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 45.0 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (£16.78 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (£80.33 @ More Computers)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£52.42 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£53.15 @ Ebuyer)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card (£99.98 @ Novatech)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case (£62.76 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£41.17 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £458.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-25 13:08 GMT+0000
 
A bit of an odd one here.

I'm looking to build a media center PC because my old one just died, it's basically to connect to my television. It will focus on Film and TV but I was looking into trying to set up something that could equally handle some retro console emulation and indie Steam kind of games, nothing too taxing, I do most my gaming on consoles anyway.

Budget would be £500, UK. But preferably as low as I could get away with it. Steady speed with no issues, as silent as possible would be the only immediate requirements.

This would be at the higher end of your budget, but offers the most performance. The graphics card has a silent running mode by turning off the fans at low temperature. Similarly, the power supply keeps fan noise down until it has to run at higher loads according to this Kitguru review.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor (£83.94 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: MSI B85I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (£63.74 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£49.80 @ Kustom PCs)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.98 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card (£169.14 @ Aria PC)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case (£38.02 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£45.83 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £493.45
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-25 12:41 GMT+0000

Here's a cheaper build that will still meet your requirements but is somewhat less capable. I changed the processor, RAM, and graphics card. The R7 260X graphics card doesn't have a silent running mode like the GTX 960, though. I think the cheapest graphics card that does is the Asus GTX 750 Ti as confirmed by HardOCP's review which costs about £137. Given that the R7 260X is roughly on par with the GTX 750 Ti for performance yet costs much less, I can't recommend the more expensive Asus card unless you really value silence.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor (£51.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI B85I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (£63.74 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£26.56 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.98 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R7 260X 2GB Core Edition Video Card (£83.99 @ Scan.co.uk)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case (£38.02 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£45.83 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £353.11
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-25 12:56 GMT+0000

One thing to note about both parts lists is that if you don't need a lot of storage space (if you'll be streaming a lot of content from another PC for example) then consider going with an SSD, it'll make the computer feel very responsive and it'll be fast to start. You could add the Noctua cooler, the silent running GTX 750 Ti, and a sizable SSD to the cheaper build, and it'll be cheaper but less well performing than the first parts list.
 
I finally decided to buy/build a gaming computer; I'm not an expert by any means, but I tried creating something with PCPartPicker. I'm starting from scratch, the only thing I excluded was the keyboard and mouse; I'll probably just buy a cheap keyboard for the time being and maybe switch it somewhere down the line. I'm mostly interested in gaming at 1080p, with ultra settings at 60 fps, which I believe the GTX970 should be able to sustain. I haven't settled on the brand yet, so I'd love to hear any opinions on the matter, I put the average price just to get an idea of the total. The CPU is the one in the suggested builds, which I believe is more than enough for what I'll be doing. I'll be straightforward here, I picked most of the other parts kinda blindly and I'd like some suggestions. For the monitor I chose a "cheap" one, about the right size for me and 1080p (which was kinda hard considering it's still pretty small). The case seems perfect. I was also wondering if a CPU cooler was needed for something like this? And also on how much noise would it produce.
Thanks in advance! And please forgive me for my ignorance on the matter.
Also, I'm not going to buy it anytime soon; towards October-December most likely, so I'd expect the prices to go down a little bit. Hopefully.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€231.73 @ Amazon Italia)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€89.32 @ Amazon Italia)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (€69.58 @ Amazon Italia)
Storage: Intel 320 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€58.81 @ Amazon Italia)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€58.19 @ Amazon Italia)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (€350.00)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case (€117.25 @ Amazon Italia)
Power Supply: Enermax NAXN ADV. 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Pioneer BDR-209DBK Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (€75.93 @ Amazon Italia)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (€137.00)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN851ND 802.11b/g/n PCI Wi-Fi Adapter (€16.95 @ Amazon Italia)
Monitor: BenQ GW2265HM 60Hz 21.5" Monitor (€100.57 @ Amazon Italia)
Other: HDMI Cable (€8.00)
Total: €1313.33
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-25 14:29 CET+0100
 
not sure if this is the right place but i'm having an issue with the PC i build.

yesterday and today i turned on the PC, logged in, opened up chrome/steam as usual, and then the computer kind of just becomes unresponsive. i didn't think anything of it because it's always slow at first (i have a 7200rpm hd) after logging in but then i heard this buzzing/grinding sound and then the computer becomes responsive again.

i can't tell if it's coming from the monitor speakers or if it's actually coming from inside the case. issue has only occurred after logging in. otherwise the computer runs just fine. i just have no idea what's causing it. i restarted the PC but nothing happened when i logged back in. i'm going to turn off the PC for a while and back on to see what happens then.

specs: i5-4590, 8GB RAM, MSI R9 290, EVGA Supernova 750W G2, Gigabyte H97M-D3H, WD BLUE 1TB 7200RPM HD, LiteOn DVD drive. i have 3 fans installed (all running) in the case. Windows 8.1 64bit OEM (up to date)

thanks
 
not sure if this is the right place but i'm having an issue with the PC i build.

yesterday and today i turned on the PC, logged in, opened up chrome/steam as usual, and then the computer kind of just becomes unresponsive. i didn't think anything of it because it's always slow at first (i have a 7200rpm hd) after logging in but then i heard this buzzing/grinding sound and then the computer becomes responsive again.

i can't tell if it's coming from the monitor speakers or if it's actually coming from inside the case. issue has only occurred after logging in. otherwise the computer runs just fine. i just have no idea what's causing it. i restarted the PC but nothing happened when i logged back in. i'm going to turn off the PC for a while and back on to see what happens then.

specs: i5-4590, 8GB RAM, MSI R9 290, EVGA Supernova 750W G2, Gigabyte H97M-D3H, WD BLUE 1TB 7200RPM HD, LiteOn DVD drive. i have 3 fans installed (all running) in the case. Windows 8.1 64bit OEM (up to date)

thanks

I would pop the case door off and see if you can identify what the culprit is. Make sure that it's not the heatsink fan that is stopping, as your CPU will overheat -- could be why it's becoming unresponsive. Though, it's probably something less dramatic than that.
 
I would pop the case door off and see if you can identify what the culprit is. Make sure that it's not the heatsink fan that is stopping, as your CPU will overheat -- could be why it's becoming unresponsive. Though, it's probably something less dramatic than that.

thought about that but can't seem to replicate it. tried simply shutting down/powering up but nothing. just tried it again there but unplugged and left the monitor/PC for a few minutes and started back up. it was slightly unresponsive but nothing concerning and there was no sound heard.

when building the PC i made sure to keep the fan cable away from the fan. everything runs just fine except for this noise when the PC freezes after log in. i've had the PC for over a month now and only experienced this issue yesterday and today.

edit* tried restarting again but nothing. opened the case to see if all the fans were spinning up and to maybe get a better listen to the sound. nothing happened. maybe it's nothing to worry about. i will keep my ears open just incase!
 
Considering building my first gaming PC. Not going to go Enthusiast, but looking at the attached.

Anyone have any thoughts?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bxKc7P

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bxKc7P
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bxKc7P/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($136.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($326.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($326.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($92.00 @ B&H)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($35.39 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VX238H-W 23.0" Monitor ($164.98 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Logitech G510s Wired Gaming Keyboard ($68.99 @ NCIX US)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Headphones: Logitech G430 7.1 Channel Headset ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1973.20
 
Considering building my first gaming PC. Not going to go Enthusiast, but looking at the attached.

Anyone have any thoughts?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bxKc7P

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bxKc7P
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bxKc7P/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($136.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($326.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($326.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($92.00 @ B&H)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($35.39 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VX238H-W 23.0" Monitor ($164.98 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Logitech G510s Wired Gaming Keyboard ($68.99 @ NCIX US)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Headphones: Logitech G430 7.1 Channel Headset ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1973.20

cant see anything wrong with that! looks like a good build :)
 
cant see anything wrong with that! looks like a good build :)

Thanks! Never done this before, so I may get all the parts and realize that I need tools haha. Is there anything in that build that may be expensive to upgrade down the line?

Any benefit of getting a separate video card if I'm not an audiophile?
Same with a separate ethernet?
 
Would a i5 3570k hold back a r9 290x? Building a semi budget pc and got an offer to get a sapphire trix r9 290x for 240 bucks
 
Thanks! Never done this before, so I may get all the parts and realize that I need tools haha. Is there anything in that build that may be expensive to upgrade down the line?

Any benefit of getting a separate video card if I'm not an audiophile?
Same with a separate ethernet?

don't worry! i've only just built my first pc recently so i'm still learning too. from what i can see everything should work fine. i mean you got the right motherboard for the CPU (a common mistake!), enough power, a good/proper case. everything should be compatible with each other!

everything you need to put it together and get it up and running SHOULD be included. i was building my PC and realised there were no SATA cables in the motherboard box so i had to wait to they arrived before i could continue working on it. usually you get x2 SATA cables with a motherboard so that will do your SSD/HDD. the motherboard if it supports SLI should come with a SLI bridge too for connecting both GPU's together.

well, the CPU/GPU are usually the most expensive part of any build. your CPU should last you a good long time. SLI 970's should also last a while but i'm guessing if it were only the 1 GPU then that would be the first expensive upgrade!

I'm guessing you mean SOUND card, right? Nah i wouldn't worry about it! the sound from the motherboard will be just fine. i'm a huge music lover and happy with the onboard audio I get from my motherboard. i would only suggest a dedicated sound card if you are very serious about audio quality.

not sure what you mean by ethernet. you got a wifi card there and there is an ethernet port on your motherboard.

Would a i5 3570k hold back a r9 290x? Building a semi budget pc and got an offer to get a sapphire trix r9 290x for 240 bucks

i wouldn't think so. it's still a quite powerful/popular CPU.
 
Thanks! Never done this before, so I may get all the parts and realize that I need tools haha. Is there anything in that build that may be expensive to upgrade down the line?

Any benefit of getting a separate video card if I'm not an audiophile?
Same with a separate ethernet?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($136.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($539.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($92.00 @ B&H)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($35.39 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($264.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Logitech G710 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Headphones: Logitech G430 7.1 Channel Headset ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1962.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-25 11:49 EDT-0400

Changed from Sli 970 to single 980 and switched monitor to a better one with 144 hz refresh rate @ 1080p. Also switched keyboard to a better one
 
Hey guys, a small question: I'm still researching the PSU and need something clarified: is there any difference between a 80+ rating and a 80+ Bronze rating other than efficiency?
 
I finally decided to buy/build a gaming computer; I'm not an expert by any means, but I tried creating something with PCPartPicker. I'm starting from scratch, the only thing I excluded was the keyboard and mouse; I'll probably just buy a cheap keyboard for the time being and maybe switch it somewhere down the line. I'm mostly interested in gaming at 1080p, with ultra settings at 60 fps, which I believe the GTX970 should be able to sustain. I haven't settled on the brand yet, so I'd love to hear any opinions on the matter, I put the average price just to get an idea of the total. The CPU is the one in the suggested builds, which I believe is more than enough for what I'll be doing. I'll be straightforward here, I picked most of the other parts kinda blindly and I'd like some suggestions. For the monitor I chose a "cheap" one, about the right size for me and 1080p (which was kinda hard considering it's still pretty small). The case seems perfect. I was also wondering if a CPU cooler was needed for something like this? And also on how much noise would it produce.
Thanks in advance! And please forgive me for my ignorance on the matter.
Also, I'm not going to buy it anytime soon; towards October-December most likely, so I'd expect the prices to go down a little bit. Hopefully.

PCPartPicker part list

By October and December, new lines of graphics cards (R9 3XX, maybe some new Nvidia models), motherboards (Z170 chipset, USB 3.1, USB type C), and processors (Skylake) will have been released, as well as Windows 10. Given that you're 7-9 months away from buying, there's not much point in making a list now, as I am almost sure you'll end up buying something else.

Come back around that time and we'll be happy to help you figure out an updated build.

Considering building my first gaming PC. Not going to go Enthusiast, but looking at the attached. Anyone have any thoughts?

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bxKc7P
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bxKc7P/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($136.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($326.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($326.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($92.00 @ B&H)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($35.39 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus VX238H-W 23.0" Monitor ($164.98 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Logitech G510s Wired Gaming Keyboard ($68.99 @ NCIX US)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Headphones: Logitech G430 7.1 Channel Headset ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1973.20

On the whole it's not bad, but I can make some recommendations for better parts and overall cost.

1. $137 for 16GB is overpriced. There's cheaper and faster memory, like this 16GB kit of G.Skill Sniper 2400MHz RAM for $105.

2. Seagate drives generally seem to have a somewhat higher rate of failure than other brands. I recommend this Toshiba 2TB ($73) model instead, it is only $3 more. Also the Crucial BX100 is $90 compared to the Samsung 850 Evo at $110.

3. Is there a reason why you want to run SLI GTX 970 at just 1080p on a 60Hz monitor? I'd opt for a single stronger graphics card. While that setup would outperform a single GTX 980 (and even the Titan X in most cases), SLI in itself isn't perfect, how well it performs depends on the game. SLI support isn't awful by any means, but why get two midrange graphics cards to begin with? Usually the main reason for running SLI is either:

a. You are playing at extremely high resolution (4K) and settings that no single graphics card will be able to handle
b. It's a cheap upgrade so you can add a second identical card to match the one you already have

In most cases, getting a single stronger graphics card is a better idea for more reliable performance, not just higher performance only when the game properly supports it. In your case you're only playing at 1080p, I'd just get a single GTX 970 or 980 and save the money. If you are willing to wait, the AMD R9 3XX line will be out in a few months, even if you aren't planning to go with AMD, it may be worth seeing if Nvidia will respond by cutting prices on the GTX 970/980. If nothing else, instead of going with the MSI Gaming 4G model, I recommend the EVGA GTX 970 SSC ($330). It's clocked slightly faster and also has a silent running mode at low temperature.

4. The EVGA Supernova G2 is a very good power supply, but it's currently expensive. The price tracker says it's dropped to $80~85 frequently in the past. Until it goes on sale, I recommend the Supernova B2 750 watts for $60 after $20 rebate instead, it's much cheaper and still high quality.

5. Not sure if you're interested in the VX238H-W for the color, but if you don't mind black, I think there are some better choices. The Asus VS247H-P ($139) is slightly larger yet is very similar in terms of specs and features, and costs $25 less. The Asus VN248H-P ($168) costs about the same as the Asus VX238H-W but is an IPS panel type.

6. I recommend the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I wifi card (~$30) instead of the TP-Link model. It has more features (wireless AC support, bluetooth) and an antenna on a wire so you can place it in a better place for stronger reception.

Hey guys, a small question: I'm still researching the PSU and need something clarified: is there any difference between a 80+ rating and a 80+ Bronze rating other than efficiency?
Nope.
 
Hey guys, a small question: I'm still researching the PSU and need something clarified: is there any difference between a 80+ rating and a 80+ Bronze rating other than efficiency?

Just efficiency, but since they are so close in terms of efficiency, it usually means the manufacture has really cheaped out a lot just to get the 80+ badge. That can mean poor quality components with low temperature ratings and components with low MTBF.
 
Hey guys, I bought an EVGA ACX 2.0 SC 980 back in December. Been a great GPU except for one game in particular...the MMO Star Wars The Old Republic. The EVGA GPUs in this line have a notorious problem with this game if you Google it. I get constant grey screens every few hours of playing with driver crashes. It is a TDR error where it stops responding and I have to alt+tab out the game to close it. I don't get BSODs or anything like that and I did tests on memory and stressed test GPU. It does not do it in any other game and I play some really graphically intense stuff. I've ran benchmarks for hours without problems. I've come to the conclusion it's an issue with EVGA cards specifically and not the game because other brand of 980s don't have a problem. I believe it has problems downclocking since it's not a graphically intense game or EVGA OC my card too much. I did every fix imaginable wiping registries, clean driver installs, etc. Downclocking was the last resort.

I know that they released a BIOS update for their GPUs that downclocks the cards but it voids your warranty doing BIOS updates. EVGA told me that people who have this problem in the game typically downclock their GPU by 100mhz and the game runs stable. My question is what software should I use? I was thinking the EVGA Precision X. My other question is I'm an overclock noob what all would I need to downclock on the card at 100mhz? Just the core clock? What about voltages and memory?
 
Hey guys, I bought an EVGA ACX 2.0 SC 980 back in December. Been a great GPU except for one game in particular...the MMO Star Wars The Old Republic. The EVGA GPUs in this line have a notorious problem with this game if you Google it. I get constant grey screens every few hours of playing with driver crashes. It is a TDR error where it stops responding and I have to alt+tab out the game to close it. I don't get BSODs or anything like that and I did tests on memory and stressed test GPU. It does not do it in any other game and I play some really graphically intense stuff. I've ran benchmarks for hours without problems. I've come to the conclusion it's an issue with EVGA cards specifically and not the game because other brand of 980s don't have a problem. I believe it has problems downclocking since it's not a graphically intense game or EVGA OC my card too much. I did every fix imaginable wiping registries, clean driver installs, etc. Downclocking was the last resort.

I know that they released a BIOS update for their GPUs that downclocks the cards but it voids your warranty doing BIOS updates. EVGA told me that people who have this problem in the game typically downclock their GPU by 100mhz and the game runs stable. My question is what software should I use? I was thinking the EVGA Precision X. My other question is I'm an overclock noob what all would I need to downclock on the card at 100mhz? Just the core clock? What about voltages and memory?
Sounds like the factory OC was not 100% stable. I have seen it happened too often. Yes, you can use Precision X and downclock. Normally, I would just downclock both the core and memory speeds to the normal 980 stock numbers. Then, test with the game causing problems. If it's fine, you can try increasing the speeds while continuing to test. At some point, you will reach the fastest 100% stable numbers.
 
I would overclock the card further and add more voltage =P But thats just me lol.

The thing is if the factory OC was unstable it would crash a lot of games. For example FC4 is quite troublesome, as well as Crysis 2/3 with their DX 11 and high Res packs.

You could also try the OCCT GPU Test with Error Check Enabled.

Also who said BIOS flashing a legit BIOS voids your warranty? Thats a first ive heard of.
 
By October and December, new lines of graphics cards (R9 3XX, maybe some new Nvidia models), motherboards (Z170 chipset, USB 3.1, USB type C), and processors (Skylake) will have been released, as well as Windows 10. Given that you're 7-9 months away from buying, there's not much point in making a list now, as I am almost sure you'll end up buying something else.

Come back around that time and we'll be happy to help you figure out an updated build.



On the whole it's not bad, but I can make some recommendations for better parts and overall cost.

1. $137 for 16GB is overpriced. There's cheaper and faster memory, like this 16GB kit of G.Skill Sniper 2400MHz RAM for $105.

2. Seagate drives generally seem to have a somewhat higher rate of failure than other brands. I recommend this Toshiba 2TB ($73) model instead, it is only $3 more. Also the Crucial BX100 is $90 compared to the Samsung 850 Evo at $110.

3. Is there a reason why you want to run SLI GTX 970 at just 1080p on a 60Hz monitor? I'd opt for a single stronger graphics card. While that setup would outperform a single GTX 980 (and even the Titan X in most cases), SLI in itself isn't perfect, how well it performs depends on the game. SLI support isn't awful by any means, but why get two midrange graphics cards to begin with? Usually the main reason for running SLI is either:

a. You are playing at extremely high resolution (4K) and settings that no single graphics card will be able to handle
b. It's a cheap upgrade so you can add a second identical card to match the one you already have

In most cases, getting a single stronger graphics card is a better idea for more reliable performance, not just higher performance only when the game properly supports it. In your case you're only playing at 1080p, I'd just get a single GTX 970 or 980 and save the money. If you are willing to wait, the AMD R9 3XX line will be out in a few months, even if you aren't planning to go with AMD, it may be worth seeing if Nvidia will respond by cutting prices on the GTX 970/980. If nothing else, instead of going with the MSI Gaming 4G model, I recommend the EVGA GTX 970 SSC ($330). It's clocked slightly faster and also has a silent running mode at low temperature.

4. The EVGA Supernova G2 is a very good power supply, but it's currently expensive. The price tracker says it's dropped to $80~85 frequently in the past. Until it goes on sale, I recommend the Supernova B2 750 watts for $60 after $20 rebate instead, it's much cheaper and still high quality.

5. Not sure if you're interested in the VX238H-W for the color, but if you don't mind black, I think there are some better choices. The Asus VS247H-P ($139) is slightly larger yet is very similar in terms of specs and features, and costs $25 less. The Asus VN248H-P ($168) costs about the same as the Asus VX238H-W but is an IPS panel type.

6. I recommend the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I wifi card (~$30) instead of the TP-Link model. It has more features (wireless AC support, bluetooth) and an antenna on a wire so you can place it in a better place for stronger reception.


Nope.


Thanks everyone including idba and Blly!

I'll make the necessary tweaks.

Is the general consensus that I should consider waiting for the fall before diving in if I don't have much time to game for the next 6 months on it? This will also lead to some price drops I would think.
 
Thanks! Never done this before, so I may get all the parts and realize that I need tools haha. Is there anything in that build that may be expensive to upgrade down the line?

Any benefit of getting a separate video card if I'm not an audiophile?
Same with a separate ethernet?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.29 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($539.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($92.00 @ B&H)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($264.98 @ NCIX US)
Keyboard: Logitech G710 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Headphones: Logitech G930 7.1 Channel Headset ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1947.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-25 12:51 EDT-0400

Added rgm's recommendations along with a upgrade to a better, and wireless headset.
 
I would overclock the card further and add more voltage =P But thats just me lol.

The thing is if the factory OC was unstable it would crash a lot of games. For example FC4 is quite troublesome, as well as Crysis 2/3 with their DX 11 and high Res packs.

You could also try the OCCT GPU Test with Error Check Enabled.

Also who said BIOS flashing a legit BIOS voids your warranty? Thats a first ive heard of.

According to EVGA BIOS flashing can void your warranty that's why I didn't flash the BIOS on the card. It might just be the games I'm playing isn't exposing the issue outside SWTOR. I believe the card has serious problems downclocking for weak games. Maybe it's the GPU Boost?

It's a rather bizarre problem. If you Google it you'll see many people with my same problem and the only known fix to it is downclocking GPU. It pisses me off because like their 970s their 980s likely have problems EVGA isn't acknowledging.

I'm leaning to if I have to downclock my GPU for stability in the game then that's a direct sign something is wrong with the GPU if it fixes it.

Anyways, I'm looking at the Precision X interface and it's not very intuitive. I just want to test EVGA's suggestion and many users by downclocking it 100mhz. I see Power Target, GPU Temp Target, GPU Clock Offset and Mem Clock Offset all have sliders. Should I just -100mhz GPU Clock Offset and Mem Clock offset only? I don't want to mess anything up.
 
Kennah, is this small enough for you?

Gigabyte BRIX Pro fully under water:

LL


LL
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.29 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($539.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($92.00 @ B&H)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($264.98 @ NCIX US)
Keyboard: Logitech G710 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Headphones: Logitech G930 7.1 Channel Headset ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1947.13
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-25 12:51 EDT-0400

Added rgm's recommendations along with a upgrade to a better, and wireless headset.

Thanks! This is now saved as my current build.

Back to my other question, should I wait and see on this build until later this fall? I really want a desktop, but I'm likely not going to be able play it much until the fall.
 
EVGA's response:

Try running DDU, and then re-install your drivers. If you're still getting crashing, test with another game or 3D benchmark like 3DMark or Unigine Heaven/Valley.

Some users have reported that bumping the power target or voltage up slightly can reduce the TDR errors with this game. For others, a slight underclock of 75 to 100MHz helps.

I'll just underclock the GPU Clock Offset by -100. Thanks EVGA. I shouldn't need to underclock my GPU just to get it to run stable in a game. I'm seriously not going to be buying another GPU from these guys. My 570 had problems too I had to RMA. Seems EVGA got at the top of the world and now they don't care about quality control. They have good customer support and great RMA service...I'll give them that.
 

Difference cooling performance. Different noise levels. Slightly different clock speed. I prefer the open type twin fan cooler compared to the boxy single fan blower type.

Can't say for certain how much because there are no reviews directly comparing the two, but while the blower model pushes all of the warm air out of the case, they are generally said to be louder and not as effective at cooling the graphics card itself as well as open type coolers that make the air inside the case warmer.
 
Difference cooling performance. Different noise levels. Slightly different clock speed. I prefer the open type twin fan cooler compared to the boxy single fan blower type.

Can't say for certain how much because there are no reviews directly comparing the two, but while the blower model pushes all of the warm air out of the case, they are generally said to be louder and not as effective at cooling the graphics card itself as well as open type coolers that make the air inside the case warmer.

Now I just saw that the Asus Matrix would cost me roughly the same, so I'm now leaning towards it. Seems to be the king of the 980.
 
Now I just saw that the Asus Matrix would cost me roughly the same, so I'm now leaning towards it. Seems to be the king of the 980.

The Gainward GTX 980 seems like a nice deal. While not as highly performing, I think Gainward has a better European presence than EVGA or MSI, and it seems like it's a match for the Gigabyte GTX 980 G1 Gaming.

Or if you're prepared to spend that much money, how about waiting for the AMD R9 R390X? Who knows, the GTX 980 might be given a discount to compete if the rumors are true about the R9 390X being ~20% faster than the GTX 980.
 
Okay, so last night I did a clean install of windows, got a new 290x installed, downloaded and installed the catalyst drivers and made sure everything was working fine.

After that I shut the system down, installed a second 290x, hooked up more monitors, and now the pc basically crashes on startup.

It comes up with a very low res screen and I get an error that says catalyst control system cannot open or is not installed correctly.

I reinstalled it, rebooted, the system crashed, restarted and CCC is missing again.

What gives?
 
Okay, so last night I did a clean install of windows, got a new 290x installed, downloaded and installed the catalyst drivers and made sure everything was working fine.

After that I shut the system down, installed a second 290x, hooked up more monitors, and now the pc basically crashes on startup.

It comes up with a very low res screen and I get an error that says catalyst control system cannot open or is not installed correctly.

I reinstalled it, rebooted, the system crashed, restarted and CCC is missing again.

What gives?

My initial thought is maybe either the GPU is bad, or maybe your power supply can't handle both?

I'd definitely uninstall the drivers and reinstall them, though.
 
Okay, so last night I did a clean install of windows, got a new 290x installed, downloaded and installed the catalyst drivers and made sure everything was working fine.

After that I shut the system down, installed a second 290x, hooked up more monitors, and now the pc basically crashes on startup.

It comes up with a very low res screen and I get an error that says catalyst control system cannot open or is not installed correctly.

I reinstalled it, rebooted, the system crashed, restarted and CCC is missing again.

What gives?
Could be a number of things. Lets start with your system specs.
 
My initial thought is maybe either the GPU is bad, or maybe your power supply can't handle both?

I'd definitely uninstall the drivers and reinstall them, though.

Could be a number of things. Lets start with your system specs.
4670k
29 290x
ASrock Z87 extreme 4
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
Rosewill Capstone 750-M

So, both cards work independently in each slot just fine, although I did have to run the installer again and reboot for it to work again.

The weird thing is that after rebooting again my wifi card no longer seems to be working? Like it seems to have just forgotten that the card exists.
 
4670k
29 290x
ASrock Z87 extreme 4
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
Rosewill Capstone 750-M

So, both cards work independently in each slot just fine, although I did have to run the installer again and reboot for it to work again.

The weird thing is that after rebooting again my wifi card no longer seems to be working? Like it seems to have just forgotten that the card exists.

That PSU is very good, but not quite enough to power 2 290x especially if you have many stuff in your rig, multiple drives, overclocked CPU for example.
Guru3d recommended at least 800w for 290x CF. Your issue makes me think that there is a slight chance the PSU is faulty and it just can't handle the cards at all, even at boot up.

Someone more knowledgeable can chime in here.
 
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