"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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4670k
29 290x
ASrock Z87 extreme 4
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
Rosewill Capstone 750-M

So, both cards work independently in each slot just fine, although I did have to run the installer again and reboot for it to work again.

The weird thing is that after rebooting again my wifi card no longer seems to be working? Like it seems to have just forgotten that the card exists.
First thing is update motherboard BIOS. Report back after this.

That PSU is cutting it awfully close, but as long as you have stock clocks on the 290s, you should be fine.
 
When are DDR3 RAMs going to drop in price because of DDR4? I want 16GBs in my next PC!
I don't want to be an 8GB peasant.
 
The Gainward GTX 980 seems like a nice deal. While not as highly performing, I think Gainward has a better European presence than EVGA or MSI, and it seems like it's a match for the Gigabyte GTX 980 G1 Gaming.

Or if you're prepared to spend that much money, how about waiting for the AMD R9 R390X? Who knows, the GTX 980 might be given a discount to compete if the rumors are true about the R9 390X being ~20% faster than the GTX 980.

I was waiting, but I gave up. I would be without a graphics card for too long in the uncertainty of price drops and new releases. If it has to be, I will upgrade next year or whatever. For now:

BHa16La.jpg


happytears.gif



Btw, what is the best Nvidia fps limiter out there? I would love one that automatically limits the fps of all games to whichever fps I want.
 
Thanks! This is now saved as my current build.

Back to my other question, should I wait and see on this build until later this fall? I really want a desktop, but I'm likely not going to be able play it much until the fall.

Keep this build and when you want to get the pc check how much the prices have dropped them if you have have spare cash upgrade. Dont build the pc until you know youll be using it.
 
First thing is update motherboard BIOS. Report back after this.

That PSU is cutting it awfully close, but as long as you have stock clocks on the 290s, you should be fine.
Everything is stock clocks. I just updated the bios, and I haven't tried out crossfire yet as a different problem reared its head.

The wifi card isn't recognized by windows as long as the gpu is in the first PCI-e slot. It only recognizes the hardware when it's in the second slot?
 
Solid choices. Grats on the new setup! Welcome to G-Sync greatness.
Everything is stock clocks. I just updated the bios, and I haven't tried out crossfire yet as a different problem reared its head.

The wifi card isn't recognized by windows as long as the gpu is in the first PCI-e slot. It only recognizes the hardware when it's in the second slot?
Yeah, they can be a bit tricky when it comes to slots sometimes.

ftp://66.226.78.21/manual/Z87M Extreme4.pdf

Pay attention to page 22 and 28 to make sure you're putting them in the right place.

Looks like you want slot 1 and 3 for video cards and slot 4 for WiFi.

*edit*

Wait that's for the Z87M

This is right: ftp://66.226.78.21/manual/Z87 Extreme4.pdf

So the way to go is

Slot 1 - WiFi
Slot 2 - GPU
Slot 4 - Second GPU
 
Great thread, guys! Very insightful for someone like me who isn't very tech savvy. I do have one little question though: Is the i3 2130 a decent CPU for casual gaming? It's for my little sisters, they don't plan on playing anything very recent (2014/2015) on it, but can it hold its own for as a lite workstation and watching some heavy Netflix/YouTube at 1080p?

Edit: 550Ti card by the way, and 4 gigs of RAM.
 
Annnnd now I tried connecting both cards.

Now the pc doesn't display anything at all? Just blackness. Nothing works :(

Even when only one card is connected...
 
Btw, what is the best Nvidia fps limiter out there? I would love one that automatically limits the fps of all games to whichever fps I want.
I missed your edit initially.

G-Sync takes care of that for you. Frame times will be limited to the max refresh of the panel.
Annnnd now I tried connecting both cards.

Now the pc doesn't display anything at all? Just blackness. Nothing works :(

Even when only one card is connected...
So wait

Two cards - display driver crash
Update BIOS - wifi card not detected
Try again - nothing works?

Try with only a single card in Slot 2, no WiFi card. Then add in WiFi card. Then add second GPU. See where it fails.
Great thread, guys! Very insightful for someone like me who isn't very tech savvy. I do have one little question though: Is the i3 2130 a decent CPU for casual gaming? It's for my little sisters, they don't plan on playing anything very recent (2014/2015) on it, but can it hold its own for as a lite workstation and watching some heavy Netflix/YouTube at 1080p?

Edit: 550Ti card by the way, and 4 gigs of RAM.
Yeah, great for casual gaming. i3s are pretty beast CPUs, and only really have issues with CPU heavy games.
 
I missed your edit initially.

G-Sync takes care of that for you. Frame times will be limited to the max refresh of the panel.

So wait

Two cards - display driver crash
Update BIOS - wifi card not detected
Try again - nothing works?

Try with only a single card in Slot 2, no WiFi card. Then add in WiFi card. Then add second GPU. See where it fails.

Yeah, great for casual gaming. i3s are pretty beast CPUs, and only really have issues with CPU heavy games.

So, no worries of it going over 144hz and getting input lag?

That's great. Thank you!
 
So, no worries of it going over 144hz and getting input lag?

That's great. Thank you!
There's a very small amount of input lag with G-Sync. If you're sensitive to it, try giving ULMB a shot after you mess around with G-Sync.

Personally, I always have it in ULMB since my main games are fast movement-based shooters like Dirty Bomb, Tribes, and arena shooters.

ULMB strobes a light once the panel fully refreshes, to eliminate motion blur. It essentially mimics how CRTs work.
 
I made a thread about this which got a small number of responses, but basically, about two weeks ago I turned on my PC and smoke started coming out of it. The PC then restarted itself a few times, wouldn't boot.

The collective wisdom of the board was that it was the PSU, so I've ordered a new one today. Gone for the EVGA Supernova B2 750w (after cancelling a couple of other orders, finally settled on this one).

On the one hand I'm happy about maybe getting my PC back going again, on the other I'm spending about €100 just to see if it is actually the PSU that's broken.

If it's not the PSU, then I think I'm done with PC gaming for at least a couple of years. I simply cannot afford any more new parts, nor do I have the heart at this point to rebuild the thing. I'll keep my case and the new PSU for the future but I'll need a significant increase in income before I think about going again.

So wish me luck GAF that it is the PSU and not something else :(
 
I missed your edit initially.

G-Sync takes care of that for you. Frame times will be limited to the max refresh of the panel.

So wait

Two cards - display driver crash
Update BIOS - wifi card not detected
Try again - nothing works?

Try with only a single card in Slot 2, no WiFi card. Then add in WiFi card. Then add second GPU. See where it fails.

Yeah, great for casual gaming. i3s are pretty beast CPUs, and only really have issues with CPU heavy games.
The wifi card was a problem before the bios update and persisted afterwards. Happened after the initial attempt at a second card, after testing whether the cards would work in slot two. Once the PC booted with the card in slot 2 it would recognize wifi. After changing it back, it would not longer recognize.

Just tried again, and nothing. PC fans start up, nothing displays, the only thing that happens is that the mobo displays a 00.
 
There's a very small amount of input lag with G-Sync. If you're sensitive to it, try giving ULMB a shot after you mess around with G-Sync.

Personally, I always have it in ULMB since my main games are fast movement-based shooters like Dirty Bomb, Tribes, and arena shooters.

ULMB strobes a light once the panel fully refreshes, to eliminate motion blur. It essentially mimics how CRTs work.

Yeah, I tried ULMB when I had an Asus VG248QE. At least, a similar technology. It was cool, but since it loses a bit of the IQ, I mostly had it turned off.

Also, I tried a few games. One of them was Left 4 Dead 2 that should run like butter with this card, but I got some random huge frame drops for no reason. What could be wrong?
 
I have a question, when I had my PC open the other day I noticed a small button on the back of my MOBO, it's an ASUS P8P67. I can't find any of my manuals or anything. There's a small button at the back of the MOBO where all the connections and the likes are, circled below. My question is... what does it do? There doesn't seem to be anything printed on the MOBO itself.

 
I would have clicked it and gave you an answer, but ASUS download is crazy slow usually :P

It was extremely slow, and the picture of the back panel doesn't show the little button at all :(

I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere but the manual is 130 pages. I don't need to know that badly!
 
Anyone planning a build using DDR 4 yet?

I know it's only compatible with few cpu's at this point, and the options are limited. But wondering if anyone has tried it out yet. Bandwidth should be pretty nice upgrade for most systems.
 
Rear panel of the case:



Side shot:



So I pretty much used the mounting hardware that came with the pump top, and then just screwed in the tube res to the pump top with a Male-Male G 1/4" adapter. There's rubber grommets in between each bolt/nut and whatever they are contacting. There's also a foam pad in between the pump top bracket and the rear case mesh.

Out of ~15 different pump/res configurations I've done, this one has actually been the most quiet.

Yeah, it's above the PSU, but whatever. I've done enough systems to where you have a pretty damn good feeling which one is going to leak and where.

Sorry for the late reply, Thanks for posting. It looks easy enough so i will definitely consider it when the time comes.
 
I have a question, when I had my PC open the other day I noticed a small button on the back of my MOBO, it's an ASUS P8P67. I can't find any of my manuals or anything. There's a small button at the back of the MOBO where all the connections and the likes are, circled below. My question is... what does it do? There doesn't seem to be anything printed on the MOBO itself.

That looks like a clear CMOS button to me.
 
I have a question, when I had my PC open the other day I noticed a small button on the back of my MOBO, it's an ASUS P8P67. I can't find any of my manuals or anything. There's a small button at the back of the MOBO where all the connections and the likes are, circled below. My question is... what does it do? There doesn't seem to be anything printed on the MOBO itself.

You sure that pic is the P67 Pro? I have that mobo on this computer. That pic you posted shows a combo PS/2 port, while my P8P67 Pro has one for the mouse, and one for the keyboard. I also don't have that small button either.
 
Does it show up in device manager?

If not, try it like this, with the yellow being the WiFi card:
Awesome!

It recognized it. Technically everything is sort of working now.

Only problem is that after the gratuitous resents and all the c mos clearing it seems as though windows no longer believes itself to be genuine... *groan*
 
Okay I think I'm going to do another clean install of windows and hope this clears up. Managed to validate it but it's feeling a little chuggier than it should, somethings a little goofy. Also holy shit switching PCI ports completely fixed my wifi card. It actually performs BETTER than it ever did in the other slot. I was plagued with wretchedly slow download speeds before, now, holy crap it's perfect.

WHY!?

The only thing that I worry about is that doesn't having that slot occupied limit the speed from the second PCI-e slot from x8 to x4?

EDIT: Sorry for the double post.
 
Hi guys, I have been playing the waiting game for far too long now. At first I said I would wait till summer 2014 for the GTX 880 Ti to come out, we all know how that turned out... Then I heard about Nvidia skipping the 8XX desktop series and jumping to 9XX, so I thought i'll wait for the 980 Ti... lol... So yeah, I'm thinking of finally buying a new rig almost 5 years later, this is what I'll be upgrading from:

CPU: Intel Core i7 930 2.80Ghz Box Socket 1366
RAM: Corsair Dominator PC3-15000 DDR3 1866 6GB 3x2GB CL9
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD7 Socket 1366
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX480 1536MB GDDR5
PSU: Corsair TX950 950W
HDD: WD 1.5TB (it's something like 8 years old!)
SSD: OCZ Agility 2 SATA II 2.5" SSD 50GB
BD Drive: LG BH10LS30 DVD/Blu-Ray

It's what gamers will call an ancient system, but its been going like a champ for almost 5 years with little to no faults, and it only now is starting to show its age. I game on an 1080p Dell UltraSharp U2410 24" IPS monitor and absolutely love it, the colors are amazing. Recently I changed desks in my room (to a bigger one) and 24" now seem "small". As much as I would like to buy that 40" Philips 4k monitor, the hardware for 4k gaming is just not there yet, and even though I can afford a SLi Titan X rig, I just can't justify burning 2.5k Euros (yes 2.5K Euros! I live in Spain) on 2 Titan X and having to mess with SLi.

So having stated the above, I will most likely just make the jump from 1080p to 1440p, and wait 3-4 years for GPUs to become powerful enough to run 4k at 60fps, single GPU, at an affordable price. Here is the setup I'm looking at:

Website where I select the build is www.pccomponentes.com it's in spanish though.
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0Ghz Box
CPU Cooler: Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H80i
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1866 PC3-15000 16GB 4x4GB CL9 Red
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H-BK
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Gaming G1 WindForce OC 4GB GDDR5
PSU: Corsair RM750 750W 80 Plus Gold Modular
Case: Thermaltake Urban T31
HDD: WD Black 4TB SATA3 7200rpm
SSD: Crucial MX100 512GB SSD SATA3
BD Drive: LG BH10LS30 DVD/Blu-Ray (from my old build, I hardly used it)
Total price: 2085.00 Euros - Spain

Main Use: Gaming - 5, General use - 3
Monitor Resolution: As I said, i'm looking to make the jump to 1440p from 1080p, and the GPU I chose, looks to go well with that resolution. I will most likely go for a two monitor setup, i'll use my current Dell as my secondary screen, and will probably purchase something like the Acer Predator XB270HUbprz NVIDIA® G-SYNC™ for gaming. I will only use that ONE screen for gaming.

I'm not obsessed with FPS in a game, just as an example I play GTAV on my PS3 and have no problems with the way it runs... (don't kill me). I do see a difference between 30 and 60fps however, and 60fps is very nice, so that is why i'm eyeing a G-Sync monitor and a 144Hz refresh rate, I want to see what all the fuss is about, and with the Acer monitor I posted above, I get an IPS panel with a 144Hz refresh rate and G-Sync, a win-win in my book.

I'm not very knowledgeable about OC-ing, so it is not important to me, the only OC I will have in my rig is the one that comes out of the box with the RAM and GPU.

I'm pretty confident that the new build will last me a good 3-4 years before I move on to new tech. I play a large variety of games, from RTS, to FPS, racing (will get Project CARS), and I will get GTAV. G-Sync will help keep things smooth when my card starts to perform in the 30-60fps range as new more demanding games come out.

So what do you guys think? Sorry for the lengthy post, I think I have explained everything.
Feel free to swap out any parts, I'm open to any recommendations. If there is no real chance that a GTX 980Ti will come out in June this year, then I might as well build a new rig now.

P.S. What would you guys think if instead I built a Socket 2011-3, DDR4 and an i7-5820K 3.3Ghz, would it be better?
 
Does it show up in device manager?

If not, try it like this, with the yellow being the WiFi card:
Wait, I'm an idiot. I can't actually plug the wifi card into that slot.

That slot is covered up by the second GPU.

The only slots free to use are the first non highlighted, the second non highlighted, and the last, which is where I currently have it seated.

Edit: and it also doesn't fit into the second slot =/
 
So having stated the above, I will most likely just make the jump from 1080p to 1440p, and wait 3-4 years for GPUs to become powerful enough to run 4k at 60fps, single GPU, at an affordable price. Here is the setup I'm looking at:

Website where I select the build is www.pccomponentes.com it's in spanish though.
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0Ghz Box
CPU Cooler: Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H80i
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1866 PC3-15000 16GB 4x4GB CL9 Red
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H-BK
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Gaming G1 WindForce OC 4GB GDDR5
PSU: Corsair RM750 750W 80 Plus Gold Modular
Case: Thermaltake Urban T31
HDD: WD Black 4TB SATA3 7200rpm
SSD: Crucial MX100 512GB SSD SATA3
BD Drive: LG BH10LS30 DVD/Blu-Ray (from my old build, I hardly used it)
Total price: 2085.00 Euros - Spain

Main Use: Gaming - 5, General use - 3
Monitor Resolution: As I said, i'm looking to make the jump to 1440p from 1080p, and the GPU I chose, looks to go well with that resolution. I will most likely go for a two monitor setup, i'll use my current Dell as my secondary screen, and will probably purchase something like the Acer Predator XB270HUbprz NVIDIA® G-SYNC™ for gaming. I will only use that ONE screen for gaming.

I'm not obsessed with FPS in a game, just as an example I play GTAV on my PS3 and have no problems with the way it runs... (don't kill me). I do see a difference between 30 and 60fps however, and 60fps is very nice, so that is why i'm eyeing a G-Sync monitor and a 144Hz refresh rate, I want to see what all the fuss is about, and with the Acer monitor I posted above, I get an IPS panel with a 144Hz refresh rate and G-Sync, a win-win in my book.

I'm not very knowledgeable about OC-ing, so it is not important to me, the only OC I will have in my rig is the one that comes out of the box with the RAM and GPU.

I'm pretty confident that the new build will last me a good 3-4 years before I move on to new tech. I play a large variety of games, from RTS, to FPS, racing (will get Project CARS), and I will get GTAV. G-Sync will help keep things smooth when my card starts to perform in the 30-60fps range as new more demanding games come out.

So what do you guys think? Sorry for the lengthy post, I think I have explained everything.
Feel free to swap out any parts, I'm open to any recommendations. If there is no real chance that a GTX 980Ti will come out in June this year, then I might as well build a new rig now.

P.S. What would you guys think if instead I built a Socket 2011-3, DDR4 and an i7-5820K 3.3Ghz, would it be better?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€235.00 @ Amazon Espana)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler (€68.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€119.90 @ Amazon Espana)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory (€153.83 @ Amazon Espana)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€186.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€102.60 @ Amazon Espana)
Video Card: Gainward GeForce GTX 980 4GB Phantom Video Card (€609.92 @ Amazon Espana)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (€118.46 @ Amazon Espana)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G-750 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (€135.83 @ Amazon Espana)
Total: €1729.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-26 00:43 CET+0100

Seeing that you only want this to last you 3-4 years, I think going 2011-3 is not that worthy.
I picked this list mainly because of your purely gaming purpose, which should be more than capable.
Amazon though but I think it will be comparable to whatever dealers you desire.
Also, regarding OC, OCing your CPU is very easy. Basically you change 2 values in BIOS and that is it. So I strongly recommend you to do so.
And if that PSU of yours is still working fine, I think you can reuse it. It is a very good one.
With all that money saved, you can put them towards a good GSYNC monitor and a 2nd GPU if need be. Or save it and go big for next build altogether.
 
Wait, I'm an idiot. I can't actually plug the wifi card into that slot.

That slot is covered up by the second GPU.

The only slots free to use are the first non highlighted, the second non highlighted, and the last, which is where I currently have it seated.

Edit: and it also doesn't fit into the second slot =/
Any way you could post a pic? The cards should only be taking up two slots each.

Some of those slots are standard PCI, not PCI-E. Is the WiFi card PCI-E or PCI?
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€235.00 @ Amazon Espana)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler (€68.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€119.90 @ Amazon Espana)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Z Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory (€153.83 @ Amazon Espana)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€186.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€102.60 @ Amazon Espana)
Video Card: Gainward GeForce GTX 980 4GB Phantom Video Card (€609.92 @ Amazon Espana)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (€118.46 @ Amazon Espana)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G-750 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (€135.83 @ Amazon Espana)
Total: €1729.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-26 00:43 CET+0100

Seeing that you only want this to last you 3-4 years, I think going 2011-3 is not that worthy.
I picked this list mainly because of your purely gaming purpose, which should be more than capable.
Amazon though but I think it will be comparable to whatever dealers you desire.
Also, regarding OC, OCing your CPU is very easy. Basically you change 2 values in BIOS and that is it. So I strongly recommend you to do so.
And if that PSU of yours is still working fine, I think you can reuse it. It is a very good one.
With all that money saved, you can put them towards a good GSYNC monitor and a 2nd GPU if need be. Or save it and go big for next build altogether.

Thanks for the quick reply.

So you recon an i5 will hold me out well for the next 3-4 years? The i7 will not be used to it's "full potential" even with Dx12 games in the near future?

My current i7 was in fact OC-ed in the BIOS setting for over three years, until it started giving me strange errors, so I just returned it to almost stock GHz and haven't had any problems since.

As for the PSU, I am looking to sell my current built for what I can get, so i'll purchase a new one.

Edit: deleted my last question, I see you picked the best of the best for me :), still wondering about the i7 though.
 
I was waiting, but I gave up. I would be without a graphics card for too long in the uncertainty of price drops and new releases. If it has to be, I will upgrade next year or whatever. For now:

BHa16La.jpg


happytears.gif



Btw, what is the best Nvidia fps limiter out there? I would love one that automatically limits the fps of all games to whichever fps I want.

If you install MSI Afterburner or EVGA precision, it comes with RTSS which has a frame limiter. I use it and it applies to all games.
 
Gah! I just got my Gigabyte 970 G1 in the mail and the damn thing is too long for my case. I had crossfire 6950s before that fit with room to spare.

It seems like if I could just cut out a section of the hard drive rack that occupies the front of the case, it could work. Has anyone on this thread ever tried something like that? I've never been a case modder. Any recommendations on tools or techniques, or should I just look for another cheap case?

The 970 was expensive enough... looking to spend as little as possible to make this work.
 
Gah! I just got my Gigabyte 970 G1 in the mail and the damn thing is too long for my case. I had crossfire 6950s before that fit with room to spare.

It seems like if I could just cut out a section of the hard drive rack that occupies the front of the case, it could work. Has anyone on this thread ever tried something like that? I've never been a case modder. Any recommendations on tools or techniques, or should I just look for another cheap case?

The 970 was expensive enough... looking to spend as little as possible to make this work.
Many cases now have removable sections or drive bays and cutting HDD cages is one of the most common mods. Check if your model has removable bays or google 'case model GPU too long' or something.

Also could return and try to purchase a 970 ITX
 
Many cases now have removable sections or drive bays and cutting HDD cages is one of the most common mods. Check if your model has removable bays or google 'case model GPU too long' or something.

Also could return and try to purchase a 970 ITX

I've got the Antec 300 mid-tower. I'm wondering if the drive cage might be removable. There's a guy on this forum thread that says it's doable. I'd end up with an HDD just kind of hanging out in the case but I could rig something up probably.

Hmm.
 
I was waiting, but I gave up. I would be without a graphics card for too long in the uncertainty of price drops and new releases. If it has to be, I will upgrade next year or whatever. For now:

BHa16La.jpg


happytears.gif



Btw, what is the best Nvidia fps limiter out there? I would love one that automatically limits the fps of all games to whichever fps I want.

Please let me know how this monitor is. Im highly considering it along with my 980.
 
Please let me know how this monitor is. Im highly considering it along with my 980.

So far I'm surprised.

It has decent colors for a TN panel, better than my old cheap Samsung with tv tuner and the VG248QE I used for two weeks. Blacks are really deep, and it has a feature you can use to calibrate which way you prefer. My mouse now feels like a magic wand with the really low input lag and the 144hz. G-Sync is marvelous. I can only say that I don't imagine going back. Titanfall, Left 4 Dead, Tf2, Metro, Max Payne 3, Alien Isolation, etc, were tearing fests, but now the image and experience is perfect. Love it.

The downsides are: It's expensive (paid 530 euros) for the build quality and for only being 1080p. I haven't seen anything better than 1080p, so there's not much to complain on my behalf.
 
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