Cool congrats on the new stuff!
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Cool congrats on the new stuff!
Looks like those are just a big bigger than two slots, which kind of screws you if that top PCI-E slot doesn't work.
moved my build from a case with front, back and top fans pointing out of the case, quite noisy and annoying but i lived with it -- to a "silent" case with "quiet" fans and noise dampening errrywhere.
can barely hear it and basically no raise in temps, so good.
i actually had a headache the other day and was laying on the couch near the computer and one of the fans was rattling and annoying me, so thats what inspired me, heh.
will make sure to look for "quiet" parts in the future for any PCs i build, theres not much downside.
can barely hear it and basically no raise in temps, so good.
i actually had a headache the other day and was laying on the couch near the computer and one of the fans was rattling and annoying me, so thats what inspired me, heh.
will make sure to look for "quiet" parts in the future for any PCs i build, theres not much downside.
Right now, few games take advantage of more than 4 cores/processing threads, so the 4790K and 5820K don't necessarily perform better for gaming framerate. The i5 4690K and 5820K are more or less even when compared at stock speeds, so if the i5 was overclocked to a higher speed, it will outperform a stock clocked i7 5820K. Same story with the i7 4790K.Thanks for the quick reply.
So you recon an i5 will hold me out well for the next 3-4 years? The i7 will not be used to it's "full potential" even with Dx12 games in the near future?
My current i7 was in fact OC-ed in the BIOS setting for over three years, until it started giving me strange errors, so I just returned it to almost stock GHz and haven't had any problems since.
As for the PSU, I am looking to sell my current built for what I can get, so i'll purchase a new one.
Edit: deleted my last question, I see you picked the best of the best for me, still wondering about the i7 though.
What you gain by moving up to an i7 is better multi-threaded processing, mainly for things that support it well like video encoding and editing. For a system you want to last only 3~4 years, I'd just go with the i5 to save money. Overclocking will let it be more than capable for 1440p and most games in the next couple of years. It's not that hard actually, there are lots of guides out there.
If it only happens during web browsing and not during games, there are two things that could be the cause and may be related to each other:
1. Chrome's GPU acceleration could be buggy. Maybe it's an issue with their current build or you need to reinstall it. You can try disabling GPU acceleration to see if it makes a difference.
2. You graphics card might not be stable at lower clock speed or is running at too low a clock speed to properly assist Chrome with GPU acceleration. Radeon cards (and I think some current generation R7/R9 cards) had this issue a few years ago where secondary monitors would have graphical glitches and the fix would be to turn up the idle clock speed from a default of 400MHz to 450~500MHz.
Some people like having the option of different CPI for different parts of a game, like when sniping or using certain weapons
Putting together a new build and will be ordering the parts early next month. Does this list look okay? Used the build in the OP as a basis:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QMFbD3
Also this is my first time building a PC from scratch. Anyone have a good guide I can print out?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QMFbD3
Also this is my first time building a PC from scratch. Anyone have a good guide I can print out?
There are a few changes I'd make for better costs.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($224.29 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($179.98 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($62.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1021.20
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-26 02:49 EDT-0400
1. The Gigabyte motherboard is usually what we recommend around here, but for a lower price and comparable specs, the MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition is $100 after $10 rebate. The Asus Z97-E for $109 after $20 rebate is also an option, some people prefer Asus.
2. Faster 1866MHz memory for the same price.
3. Cheaper SSD for the same amount of storage. Also, you didn't list a hard drive, are you sure you don't need one? For 1TB I'd recommend the WD Blue, while for 2~3TB I recommend Toshiba models. Seagate drives are cheap but seem to have a higher failure rate, so I don't recommend those.
4. Instead of the GTX 970, how about the R9 290/290X? They're slightly lesser performing but have better performance-to-price and will handle 1080p gaming just fine for the next few years. The Powercolor R9 290 PCS+ ($250 after $20 rebate), and will get similar performance compared to the GTX 970. If you prefer the GTX 970 then instead of the MSI Gaming 4G model, I recommend either the Gigabyte G1 model ($323) which has a large but excellent cooler and high overclocking potential, or the EVGA Super Superclocked model ($330) which has a higher clock speed than the MSI and also has a silent fan mode.
5. The Enthoo Pro is a very nice case that offers premium quality for $100, but you could go with a more regular sized tower case for cheaper yet still high quality, like the Corsair 300R ($60), still has lots of room for expansion and great airflow. I doubt you'd ever fill up all the expansion slots and bays, even in the smaller PC.
6. Seasonic is a good brand, but 520 watts for $69 is pretty overpriced. My go-to for PSU recommendations are the EVGA Supernova B2 series. The 750 watt model is $60 after $20 rebate, and the 850 watt model is $63 after $20 rebate. Given the prices here, I'd recommend the 850 watt model, it'll be more than strong enough to run twin graphics cards. Both models are manufactured by Super Flower, a high end power supply OEM known for quality, and the 750 watt model received a great review.
That said.. you should keep an eye on the prices in the parts list. Prices can easily change over a couple of days, in your case you still have a week or three before buying. For example, just yesterday I was recommending 16GB of 2400MHz RAM for $105 (check the price tracker).
As for PC building guides, sorry, I don't know of any specific ones. Still, there are lots of guided PC build videos on youtube by Newegg and Linux tech tips for example, they should help.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this up!
I think I'm going to just use the SSD as my only drive. I have 1TB right now and haven't even used half of it, so I'm not too worried.
Re: heatsink - I've read that those are only needed if you plan on overclocking, which I have no plans on doing. Do you think it's a good idea to still get one, or can I get by with the default?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Overclocking is highly recommended around here. As it is very easy, cheap, and can increase your CPU performance by quite a big margin. So if you absolutely do not want to there are cheaper parts that are ok but otherwise, it is worth a try.
If you're not overclocking, you could save some money and get a non-overclocking parts like an H97 motherboard (starting around $70) and non-K processor (i5 4460 for $179). But if you're going to spend around $1000, you might as well go for it instead of holding back your PC. Lots of motherboards have automated overclock features and for the most part are single click to use and safe, although some guide reading and tweaking by yourself gets you much farther and the PC will last longer before you need to upgrade it. You don't have to overclock right away, you can leave it for a few years down the line.
About the CPU cooler, I'd keep it. The bundled stock Intel cooler also works, but it can run loud and hot when at high loads. With the 212 Evo, even if you're not overclocking it'll run at lower maximum temperatures and noise level, and if you do overclock in the future, you have a decent cooler for moderate overclocking.
One last thing: do you live near a Microcenter store? They have the best deals on processors and motherboards bundles. The only catch is that they're only available at that low price for in-store purchase.
Didn't realize it was that easy, I think I'll give it a shot. Thanks again!
I'm still running a gtx 240 so this upgrade is loooong overdue. Can't wait to replay some games on high!
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
For any folks in the UK, Overclockers have slashed the price of the R9 295X2 8GB to £499.99.
This is a crazy price when you consider it's faster than the £900+ Titan X.
This is a crazy price when you consider it's faster than the £900+ Titan X.
I'm terribly conflicted about my monitor. My PC is fairly new and powerful but I've been using a Samsung SyncMaster T240 since... 2008, I think? Its probably ridiculously outdated but I've stuck with it because I really like its size and 1920x1200 resolution.
So I can either:
-Replace it with a more modern monitor of the same resolution, which kind of sounds like bad use of money.
-Replacing it with a higher res monitor, which I may love or hateIdon'tknow :-/
-Keeping the old monitor.
Ugh, decisions.
Is there anything genuinely BAD about my current monitor by today's standards?
So I can either:
-Replace it with a more modern monitor of the same resolution, which kind of sounds like bad use of money.
-Replacing it with a higher res monitor, which I may love or hateIdon'tknow :-/
-Keeping the old monitor.
Ugh, decisions.
Is there anything genuinely BAD about my current monitor by today's standards?
Tunned
Member
It's just that from comparisons I saw between the 4690k and the 4790K, in games like Crysis 3, the 4790k has a slight advantage when holding 60fps. But such games are few and apart, so I guess I'll go with the build proposed to me by lordfuzzybutt.
I really hope NVIDIA does not come out with a cut down Titan X by June, I really don't want to swap out the 980 once I buy it.
Any how, thanks for the help guys! I'll report back if I buy the system, and once I've mounted it.
So I wanted to see how good of a computer you could make on the cheap.
And, well..
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.97 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($27.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($27.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.93 @ Amazon)
Total: $345.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-26 06:40 EDT-0400
Wow, this is including a DVD drive as well. You can yank that out and be even closer to $300, and this is a CPU + GPU combo that is said to be surprisingly good.
And, well..
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.97 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($27.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($27.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.93 @ Amazon)
Total: $345.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-26 06:40 EDT-0400
Wow, this is including a DVD drive as well. You can yank that out and be even closer to $300, and this is a CPU + GPU combo that is said to be surprisingly good.
Hey guys, I need your advice. As my current setup is probably around 5 years old (except some minor upgrades) I'm thinking of upgrading some stuff:
My main issue with my current system is the lack of USB 3.0 and especially SATA 3. Also I want to go for a 500GB SSD (probably the 850 Evo). As my CPU is really fast and it's rather hard to get a better CPU (plus motherboard, RAM, maybe a decent GPU and the SSD) into my budget I'd love to stay with my CPU. But as you don't get any 1156 socket motherboards anymore that seems to be a no-go.
I looked at the Xeon-E3 1231v3 as a CPU but looking at the 260 price tag that's a bit too much. Considering a halfway decent motherboard for 70 plus new RAM (I would go with a 16GB kit which would cost me around 170 ) I'm already easily over my budget. And then I don't even have my new SSD...
So any ideas?
- Current Specs: i5 750 @ 3.2 GHz / 8GB 1333MHz RAM / Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2 / Radeon HD 6970 / 120GB 840 Evo and some rather fast HDDs for storage
- Main use: to be honest I'll do most of my gaming on consoles, most games I play on my PC are racing sims and games like Civ5, Cities etc. Main use is 3d modeling (Maya, modo and zBrush) and office stuff.
- Monitor resolution: I'm fine with 1920x1080
- Budget: up to 400
- When will I build: I'd like to have my "new" system ready for the Windows 10 launch in september.
My main issue with my current system is the lack of USB 3.0 and especially SATA 3. Also I want to go for a 500GB SSD (probably the 850 Evo). As my CPU is really fast and it's rather hard to get a better CPU (plus motherboard, RAM, maybe a decent GPU and the SSD) into my budget I'd love to stay with my CPU. But as you don't get any 1156 socket motherboards anymore that seems to be a no-go.
I looked at the Xeon-E3 1231v3 as a CPU but looking at the 260 price tag that's a bit too much. Considering a halfway decent motherboard for 70 plus new RAM (I would go with a 16GB kit which would cost me around 170 ) I'm already easily over my budget. And then I don't even have my new SSD...
So any ideas?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Yes, the difference of the i5 and i7 is negligible for gaming, as explained by RGM.
But does the bold part mean that you will only build it after the next Nvidia cards batch comes? If so come back here when you are going to build as prices could have changed a lot by then.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Got some more 140mms for the top, got a pretty sweet pic with the gopro
Like a disco in there! Nice.
If your current hardware is working fine, in your shoes I wouldn't upgrade until you can afford that Xeon at least. CPUs have been improving at a snail's pace, whatever you buy next you'll have for a very long time. The price differences between CPUs can feel big but you need to consider them in the context of your whole system cost. If you could afford it, even going from the Xeon to a 4790K is actually decently cost effective performance, +15% before any overclocking.
If you really need new memory immediately, you can start from that and just stick it in your current system.
Hold off on the SSD upgrade - it's only a "nice to have" rather than essential since you already have a decent one, and if your SSD upgrade happens to stretch a year longer or so, we should already have affordable PCIe SSDs that are 4x faster than current ones or better.
Tunned
Member
No, I want to build my new system now. The only thing holding me back is the uncertainty when the new Nvidia cards will come out. If I can be "guaranteed" they'll come out by June this year, I can wait it out.
Thanks. Pretty much confirms my thoughts.
Also it's not like I couldn't afford the upgrades. I'm just not comfortable with spending that much without seeing an huge performance boost.
opticalmace
Member
There's no guarantee, just the nature of the industry. New cards will come out.. and new ones after that, and new ones after that.
Tunned
Member
Ye, that's the problem, with the 980 Ti said to have been pushed back to 2016 due to die problems, I don't see what Nvidia can come up with during this year other than a cutback Titan X. I just can't shake the feeling a 980 won't be enough for the next 3-4 years, but it's just my paranoia, if I have survived with my current setup for so long, i'll manage with this new one.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
No one knows for sure when it is gonna come. But if you can hold out. I would personally wait until it comes, go big along with a nice 1440p, 144hz, gsync screen as you said you wanted. As of this moment, the 980 is not quite capable and the Titan X is not cost effective.
opticalmace
Member
Some rumours point to Computex in early June.
Rumors say the R9 3XX line drops in June, other rumors also say the the line consists mostly of rebadged older graphics cards with only the R9 390/390X flagship being a new design.
I've owned a Radeon 5850 and currently have the R9 270X in crossfire. Never really had any problems beyond common issues that go away after reinstalling drivers. The only Nvidia card I owned was a Geforce 4 MX, can't really say anything about the current state of drivers. I'm not really sure what people mean when they say "AMD/ATI drivers bad".
lordfuzzybutt
Member
In about 5 years when I used my Mobility 5870, I can only ever remember one incident related to the drivers, which was when I tried to install a beta driver back when windows 8 was just launched and it failed. Other than that it was smooth sailing. Sure, some games were not supported as well at launch but nothing as bad as people try to make it seem.
Hmm thanks. My PC is dead atm, so I don't think I'll wait until June. I need to make some decisions
Tunned
Member
The bold part just justifies my concerns. Be it that a GTX 980 Ti won't come out this year, I will try to hold out till 2016, at that point i'll be able to build a system with Skylake, DDR4 and Pascal tech, which will be more than capable at 1440p (if not 4k).
opticalmace
Member
No. Just make sure you're overclocking it.
People say that all the time, but their drivers are perfectly fine. When I was AMD, I never had an issue with them. The only thing to complain about is the delay they have a lot on putting them out on time, mostly an issue to people using two cards and have to wait for their Crossfire profiles.
Yes its surprising how many people think extra or aftermarket fans are needed when really a few good low rpm fans with the right airflow and properly cable managed build will result in very similar temps with drastically less noise.
On my ITX build im not getting away with all stock and CPU fans at 5v with a GTX 970 and 3770 both overclocked.
catapult37
Member
I'll have to borrow one from a friend. What attachment do you need to cut that sheet metal?
Gulp!
Made the leap and ordered some parts off Amazon... fingers crossed i don't have to return anything...
Got:
CPU: Intel i5-4690k
RAM: Kingston Hyper Fury X 8x2gb 1866Mhz
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming - went for the extra overlock and display ports - there's a $30 rebate and Witcher 3 code now so its a pretty good deal (with the rebate its only $319).
SSD: Crucial MX100 256gb
Going to source the other parts locally because its cheaper... emailed two online shops in Malaysia a few days ago, had to remind one shop twice about my email, and the other shop said they were too busy this week to check stock availability. Still haven't got anything. (What? They don't want my money?) Next week GST (6%, another reason I ordered this week) is implemented so maybe they are a bit busy...
First PC I'm building in about 15 years...and that one was my brothers! Should be glorious! Thanks again to RGM, Hazaro and others here for invaluable advice.
Made the leap and ordered some parts off Amazon... fingers crossed i don't have to return anything...
Got:
CPU: Intel i5-4690k
RAM: Kingston Hyper Fury X 8x2gb 1866Mhz
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming - went for the extra overlock and display ports - there's a $30 rebate and Witcher 3 code now so its a pretty good deal (with the rebate its only $319).
SSD: Crucial MX100 256gb
Going to source the other parts locally because its cheaper... emailed two online shops in Malaysia a few days ago, had to remind one shop twice about my email, and the other shop said they were too busy this week to check stock availability. Still haven't got anything. (What? They don't want my money?) Next week GST (6%, another reason I ordered this week) is implemented so maybe they are a bit busy...
First PC I'm building in about 15 years...and that one was my brothers! Should be glorious! Thanks again to RGM, Hazaro and others here for invaluable advice.
The cutting disk
Train of Midnight
Banned
Hey guys, quick question, any reason not to pick up this MoBo for $30?
MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming Intel Z87 LGA 1150 Motherboard
Building a new PC later this year, want to grab this deal while it's available. Is the chipset/socket too out of date?
MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming Intel Z87 LGA 1150 Motherboard
Building a new PC later this year, want to grab this deal while it's available. Is the chipset/socket too out of date?
Hip Hop
Member
I recently got a CoolerMaster hyper evo 212 and it replaced the stock intel cooler I was using for my i5 3570k.
(Using two fans on the evo 212. Push/pull method)
I used to hit temps of 78c+ while gaming and now it does around 60c max. Are these good temps?
Right now I just stressed test it for 20mins and Turbo Boost upped my clocks to 3.61Ghz. The temp hovered around 60c. Is this too hot for the current frequency? If I were to overclock, are my temps gonna make a big jump? Is it worth it to overclock for gaming? What frequency should I aim for? Never done it before.
(Using two fans on the evo 212. Push/pull method)
I used to hit temps of 78c+ while gaming and now it does around 60c max. Are these good temps?
Right now I just stressed test it for 20mins and Turbo Boost upped my clocks to 3.61Ghz. The temp hovered around 60c. Is this too hot for the current frequency? If I were to overclock, are my temps gonna make a big jump? Is it worth it to overclock for gaming? What frequency should I aim for? Never done it before.
Take baby steps. Try for 3.8ghz then 4Ghz.
Best way to start is by checking the Vcore in CPUz whilst running Prime95. That will be the start point to use as the CPU Voltage (VCore) in bios. Then just raise the CPU Multiplier to 38 for 3.8Ghz. Test with some Prime95 Small FFT, and adjust Vcore accordingly. If you pass minutes then try for more speed. If the test causes a BSOD, and temperatures are below 80c, then add 0.01v Vcore in BIOS. Just repeat till you find a sweet spot where temperatures and speed are maximized with little Vcore as possible.
Then finally do a longer test lasting a few hours atleast.
The starting Vcore should be around 1.10v.
DrBaalzamon
Member
Quick question. My i7 4770k is a little over a year old, I want to refresh the heatsink EVO thermal paste. Whats a good replacement thermal compound? Thanks!
Arctic Cooling MX4
Curious as well. It's definitely an older model, ~18 months or so, but got rock solid reviews at the time.
Most likely will need a Haswell CPU to update the BIOS to a Haswell Refresh or Devils Canyon supported BIOS.
DrBaalzamon
Member
Yeah? Im hearing also Artic Silver 5? Or are they comparable?
I'm thinking about putting my rig in water, I've never done anything with watercooling and I wanted to know if this kit here was a good start. I got a Titan X and while it's not loud, the whirring of the small fan is a bit annoying and was hoping to get this set along with a waterblock for the video card to quiet the system down.
If that kit is not a good value, could someone help me pick out the stuff I need. I have a Fractal R5 with an Asus X99-A motherboard.
If that kit is not a good value, could someone help me pick out the stuff I need. I have a Fractal R5 with an Asus X99-A motherboard.
360mm rad for a 2011 proc + Titan X is a lot to handle. I'll need to look into the R5 to see if it can fit more than that.
The kit isn't bad, but there's some parts that could be better. Especially that pump, which will be very loud. I'm assuming since you own an R5, that would not be your cup of tea.
*edit*
Okay, looks like you can do a 240+360mm rad in the R5. I put this together for smokey a few pages back, and it would work perfectly for you as well.
Just add a CPU block of your choice to that.
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