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[Coulomb_Barrier]

Yup and doesn't suppor g sync, runs hot, has poor frame pacing, and is a power hog

I don't want to derail the thread but how the hell do you come to the conclusion that the R9 295X2 'runs hot'?

Scroll down this link for its temp comparison:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7930/the-amd-radeon-r9-295x2-review/17

Under load it runs cooler than a GTX 780.

And of course it doesn't support Gsync, AMD have Freesync instead.

 

[APZonerunner]

Hey folks - looking for some fairly boring processor advice.

I'm throwing together a box that's going to be used for some low-intensity but near constant usage. It won't be playing games, but will be doing minor media tasks - mostly music related stuff. It's not a media box specifically, and will also be used for web browsing by some and the like, but, again, nothing too intense, no games. I've cobbled this together out of old parts I've had around - I picked up a new SSD, but every other part I was able to grab from old stuff or from friends getting rid of old parts. It'll be a decent box, and it probably would run last-gen games competently all the same even though that's not the goal.

My question: Processor. That I don't have. For that kind of use - completely eschewing games - what sort of benefit am I going to see, if any, on an i3 4150 vs a i5 4460? The price difference here in the UK (at RRP) is in the region of £60, so about 2/3 more.

Cheers PC GAF!

 

[DillonMabry]

Hopefully this is a good place to ask, but I need some help figuring out if I'm getting ripped off or something...

Long story short, had to send my PSU in to get replaced, seemed to be responsible for the coil whine I was having. It was delivered to them about a week ago, but I hadn't gotten any updates, so I checked in with support to ask what was up. I guess they're pretty backed up, so it's going slow for them. Guy said he could "upgrade" my PSU for the trouble, but looking at it, it doesn't look like much of an upgrade to me.

I had a Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 620W (why is it $300? I only paid $100 on Amazon), and this supposed upgrade is to a Cooler Master GM Series G650M.

The G650M is cheaper, and has less connectors, and no good reviews that I can find. Plus I looked around and saw that Cooler Master is pretty shitty when it comes to RMAs, so I'm worried I'd be getting jipped. But then again, I'm still a newbie, so what do I know.

 

[cyen]

Hey folks - looking for some fairly boring processor advice.

I'm throwing together a box that's going to be used for some low-intensity but near constant usage. It won't be playing games, but will be doing minor media tasks - mostly music related stuff. It's not a media box specifically, and will also be used for web browsing by some and the like, but, again, nothing too intense, no games. I've cobbled this together out of old parts I've had around - I picked up a new SSD, but every other part I was able to grab from old stuff or from friends getting rid of old parts. It'll be a decent box, and it probably would run last-gen games competently all the same even though that's not the goal.

My question: Processor. That I don't have. For that kind of use - completely eschewing games - what sort of benefit am I going to see, if any, on an i3 4150 vs a i5 4460? The price difference here in the UK (at RRP) is in the region of £60, so about 2/3 more.

Cheers PC GAF!

Better save some cash and go with the i3, it will be enough for the things you mentioned.

 

[RGM79]

Hey folks - looking for some fairly boring processor advice.

I'm throwing together a box that's going to be used for some low-intensity but near constant usage. It won't be playing games, but will be doing minor media tasks - mostly music related stuff. It's not a media box specifically, and will also be used for web browsing by some and the like, but, again, nothing too intense, no games. I've cobbled this together out of old parts I've had around - I picked up a new SSD, but every other part I was able to grab from old stuff or from friends getting rid of old parts. It'll be a decent box, and it probably would run last-gen games competently all the same even though that's not the goal.

My question: Processor. That I don't have. For that kind of use - completely eschewing games - what sort of benefit am I going to see, if any, on an i3 4150 vs a i5 4460? The price difference here in the UK (at RRP) is in the region of £60, so about 2/3 more.

Cheers PC GAF!

I'd go for the i3 processor if performance is not a priority.

Hopefully this is a good place to ask, but I need some help figuring out if I'm getting ripped off or something...

Long story short, had to send my PSU in to get replaced, seemed to be responsible for the coil whine I was having. It was delivered to them about a week ago, but I hadn't gotten any updates, so I checked in with support to ask what was up. I guess they're pretty backed up, so it's going slow for them. Guy said he could "upgrade" my PSU for the trouble, but looking at it, it doesn't look like much of an upgrade to me.

I had a Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 620W (why is it $300? I only paid $100 on Amazon), and this supposed upgrade is to a Cooler Master GM Series G650M.

The G650M is cheaper, and has less connectors, and no good reviews that I can find. Plus I looked around and saw that Cooler Master is pretty shitty when it comes to RMAs, so I'm worried I'd be getting jipped. But then again, I'm still a newbie, so what do I know.

I can only find a review for the G550M which says it's quite decent. It doesn't seem like there's a lot of difference when it comes to build quality and functionality, so I don't see how you're being ripped off.

What do you mean the G650M has fewer connectors? It has one fewer SATA connector and one more molex connector than the Silent Pro M2.

 

[DillonMabry]

I can only find a review for the G550M which says it's quite decent. It doesn't seem like there's a lot of difference when it comes to build quality and functionality, so I don't see how you're being ripped off.

What do you mean the G650M has fewer connectors? It has one fewer SATA connector and one more molex connector than the Silent Pro M2.

Maybe I'm missing something (like I said, PC building newbie), but it looks like fewer connectors to me.

And I don't know that I'm being ripped off, that's why I'm asking. I've seen multiple examples of CM replacing an item with an inferior version, so when they say they were gonna give me something other than what I originally purchased, I'm skeptical.

Also it costs less. They're offering me a $90 item for a $100 item. While not much, it's still less value than my original purchase.

 

[RGM79]

Maybe I'm missing something (like I said, PC building newbie), but it looks like fewer connectors to me.

And I don't know that I'm being ripped off, that's why I'm asking. I've seen multiple examples of CM replacing an item with an inferior version, so when they say they were gonna give me something other than what I originally purchased, I'm skeptical.

Also it costs less. They're offering me a $90 item for a $100 item. While not much, it's still less value than my original purchase.

Just because it has fewer modular connectors doesn't mean the total number of connectors is less. The G650M has fewer modular cables with more connectors per cable. Instead of looking at the number of modular connectors, look at the cables.

Silent Pro M2 620 watt product sheet PDF - scroll down for cable layout
G650M product sheet PDF - scroll down to page 6 for cable layout

Wait, did they outright say they were giving you the G650M instead of the Silent Pro M2 back, or were they giving you the choice of accepting the G650M because the wait was taking a long time? The first would be questionable customer service, but the second is sensible, it's just an offer.

Honestly I wouldn't worry about the retail cost of a power supply, what price tag the store puts on the product doesn't always play into the quality of a power supply. For example, there are higher quality power supplies that can occasionally be found cheaper like the EVGA Supernova G2 750 watt gold fully modular PSU that has been as cheap as $70 and frequently drops to around $80.

According to price tracking history, the G650M has sold for a low of $70 and a high of $126, while the Silent Pro M2 has sold for a low of $46 and a high of $120. The price that a power supply sells for is not indicative of its quality. What you paid for it is what you paid, I understand if you don't like the idea that you are getting a different power supply, but the fact that the G650M costs $90 at some store shouldn't really matter in regards to its quality and performance. The price tracker link says the G650M currently costs $70 at NCIXUS, and the Silent Pro M2 seems to be discontinued (Newegg got rid of their stock at $50 and Superbiz had some remaining in stock for a while after at $112).

 

[toadsworth]

Welp, looks like I done did it this time. I've been running the MSI Z87-G45 for the past two years and had no problems. Today, I decided to run the MSI Live Update tool. That was a mistake. It tried to flash the bios from windows and the machine just crashed and burned. It still boots, but I get a windows error that no drive can be read. Same error appears when attempting to read a bootable usb. I guess I'll have to purchase a new motherboard. Certainly not getting an MSI again.

 

[Wallach]

About to pull the trigger on a main rig refresh:

- i7-4790K
- ASUS Sabertooth Z97 Mark 2
- Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB PC12800
- Samsung 850 EVO 500GB (I have another 250GB 840 and some other drives for addt'l storage as needed)

Any objections or incompatibilities I might have missed before I pull the trigger?

Windows is currently installing on the new rig with the above component swaps, sans the memory which I swapped for the Vengeance PC3 15000 version (1866). Looks to have gone off first shot, aside from checking temps tonight to make sure the 212 Evo is sitting well. Always thought installing that HSF was a little sketchy on this socket but it went pretty smooth this time.

Really like ASUS' UEFI - it was so dang easy to update the BIOS before doing anything else just having the .CAP on a USB drive.

Now for the boring part of getting everything updated and reinstalled.

 

[RGM79]

Welp, looks like I done did it this time. I've been running the MSI Z87-G45 for the past two years and had no problems. Today, I decided to run the MSI Live Update tool. That was a mistake. It tried to flash the bios from windows and the machine just crashed and burned. It still boots, but I get a windows error that no drive can be read. Same error appears when attempting to read a bootable usb. I guess I'll have to purchase a new motherboard. Certainly not getting an MSI again.

Generally, flashing BIOS from Windows is discouraged, although most vendors support it. Have you tried reflashing the BIOS using another method before deciding it was a lost cause?

 

[ricki42]

Welp, looks like I done did it this time. I've been running the MSI Z87-G45 for the past two years and had no problems. Today, I decided to run the MSI Live Update tool. That was a mistake. It tried to flash the bios from windows and the machine just crashed and burned. It still boots, but I get a windows error that no drive can be read. Same error appears when attempting to read a bootable usb. I guess I'll have to purchase a new motherboard. Certainly not getting an MSI again.

Have you tried clearing the CMOS?

 

[toadsworth]

Generally, flashing BIOS from Windows is discouraged, although most vendors support it. Have you tried reflashing the BIOS using another method before deciding it was a lost cause?

Yes, I reflashed the BIOS to v1.0, which I think is what it was at before and it didn't change at all.

Have you tried clearing the CMOS?

I cleared the CMOS and it didn't change either.

I'm not sure what happened but it cannot seem to read any drives past the BIOS screen.

 

[Sarcasm]

I have to admit something.

I have an asrock mobo and a 3770K but I haven't OC. I don't know how and I am afraid to ask. Also afraid to follow a wrong guide and fry my PC.

 

[brentech]

I have to admit something.

I have an asrock mobo and a 3770K but I haven't OC. I don't know how and I am afraid to ask. Also afraid to follow a wrong guide and fry my PC.

Highly recommend
http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/...-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition

It's what I used when I did mine in 2012. Have a 3570k on asrock that's
been going strong overclocked since day one.

 

[LegionAgent]

Hey guys, I need some help on the hardware end. The thing is, last December my 2 years old GTX 560 TI got fried for unknown reasons (I was just watching a youtube video and it got burn) so I want to replace it.
The thing is, I also want to invest into some water cooling but I don't know if my current PSU can handle it. I have a Corsair CX600M since this january and I want to get something cheap for the watercooling, like a Corsair H60 V2. As for the GPU I'm thinking on a GTX 760 or something alike. Do you think my PSU can take it?
Also, I have an I5 3570k and 4 fans (I think that my old GPU might have malfunctioned due to to it overheating since my apartment is really old and there is dust everywhere that gets into the fans, but it's just a theory. Another one is that, since my apartment is really old and I get blackouts now and then for having the washingmachine and the microwave or stuff that requires big resistances, turned on at the same time with the computer this might have caused a short circuit that fried my GPU). Please help, thanks guys.

 

[toadsworth]

Hey guys, I need some help on the hardware end. The thing is, last December my 2 years old GTX 560 TI got fried for unknown reasons (I was just watching a youtube video and it got burn) so I want to replace it.
The thing is, I also want to invest into some water cooling but I don't know if my current PSU can handle it. I have a Corsair CX600M since this january and I want to get something cheap for the watercooling, like a Corsair H60 V2. As for the GPU I'm thinking on a GTX 760 or something alike. Do you think my PSU can take it?
Also, I have an I5 3570k and 4 fans (I think that my old GPU might have malfunctioned due to to it overheating since my apartment is really old and there is dust everywhere that gets into the fans, but it's just a theory. Another one is that, since my apartment is really old and I get blackouts now and then for having the washingmachine and the microwave or stuff that requires big resistances, turned on at the same time with the computer this might have caused a short circuit that fried my GPU). Please help, thanks guys.

The power supply should be fine to handle the water cooler and GTX 760. Since your apartment is prone to blackouts I would definitely suggest a battery backup for it. It works like a power strip but also supplies power when you get a blackout, which could be just as dangerous for your PC as a power surge. Be sure to clean out all the fans and heatsinks every few months as well.

 

[LegionAgent]

The power supply should be fine to handle the water cooler and GTX 760. Since your apartment is prone to blackouts I would definitely suggest a battery backup for it. It works like a power strip but also supplies power when you get a blackout, which could be just as dangerous for your PC as a power surge. Be sure to clean out all the fans and heatsinks every few months as well.

Thanks forthe advice, I started to look for some UPS right away and found myself without too many choices (due to me living in Chile, were not all the tech arrives and not all at a decent price). So far this are my choices which range from 80 to 100 dollars here in my country:

-Forza NT-1002C, UPS 1000VA 500W 4 Out 220V
-APC UPS 500VA Back RS (BR500CI-AS)
-APC UPS BX650CI-LM, 390 Watts /650 VA, 230V

It's not much, but those are my choices, what do you think?

 

[TxdoHawk]

Alright GAF, I'm going to pull the trigger on a GTX 970. I want to buy EVGA as they've never steered me wrong in the past. But holy choices, the Amazon page lists SEVEN different models. What should I grab?

 

[RGM79]

Alright GAF, I'm going to pull the trigger on a GTX 970. I want to buy EVGA as they've never steered me wrong in the past. But holy choices, the Amazon page lists SEVEN different models. What should I grab?

The SuperSC ACX 2.0+ version (04G-P4-3975-KR) is newest, I think. It has a better and improved 'plus' cooler over the old ACX 2.0 cooler as well as a silent fan mode.

 

[finalflame]

Alright GAF, I'm going to pull the trigger on a GTX 970. I want to buy EVGA as they've never steered me wrong in the past. But holy choices, the Amazon page lists SEVEN different models. What should I grab?

Just the ACX 2.0 is fine. You can get the SC model if you want slightly higher clocks, or the FTW if you want just slightly higher than that. I'd just go with the regular or the SC, though.

 

[TxdoHawk]

The SuperSC ACX 2.0+ version (04G-P4-3975-KR) is newest, I think. It has a better and improved cooler than the old ACX 2.0 cooler as well as a silent fan mode.

Looks like this is the winner, I definitely would appreciate the noise reduction. Thanks!

 

[tahsutify]

I need to purchase a computer for work. It will be mostly used for 3d modelling, no gaming whatsoever. It should be able to deal with pretty big assemblies. What would be the best route to take? Should I purchase a workstation or pre-built? What would be the GPU, do quadro cards offer really much better performance in this use case? Questions, questions.

At least some clue about where to start would be nice. I have to decide before friday so I don't have much time to make a thorough investigation. The budget is not huge, so no crazy 10000$ GPUs, apart from that I don't have much info either.

Thanks.

 

[Godan]

I just need a bit of advise is regards to monitors.


I currently run two of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005OPLG0O/


I am looking to upgrade them just now and I think i might go with this monitor http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B19T7QC/


Now I do all my gaming on my monitor i.e PC/PS4/PS3 and I don't want to go past 24'' too.


How is this monitor that I am looking at getting? Is there maybe something better out there?

 

[Water]

I just need a bit of advise is regards to monitors.


I currently run two of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005OPLG0O/


I am looking to upgrade them just now and I think i might go with this monitor http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B19T7QC/


Now I do all my gaming on my monitor i.e PC/PS4/PS3 and I don't want to go past 24'' too.


How is this monitor that I am looking at getting? Is there maybe something better out there?

The best image quality you can get in the under 24", console suitable category is (still) on the Eizo FG2421 due to its VA panel. The 120Hz + black frame insertion features give it excellent motion clarity, but are only useful for PC. If you were willing to slightly compromise on motion clarity (no drawback on console), then 60Hz IPS displays would also be an option, quite a bit cheaper. The other kind of "better" that is available is G-Sync displays. Currently in the 1080p / 24" size class there's only one that will take console input in addition to PC input, it's made by Benq. It's 144Hz and TN panel, much like the one you linked, so the image quality isn't great but motion clarity is best in the market (in addition to G-Sync it has the ULMB feature that has the same effect as the Eizo's black frame insertion tech).

 

[ricki42]

Hey guys, I need some help on the hardware end. The thing is, last December my 2 years old GTX 560 TI got fried for unknown reasons (I was just watching a youtube video and it got burn) so I want to replace it.
The thing is, I also want to invest into some water cooling but I don't know if my current PSU can handle it. I have a Corsair CX600M since this january and I want to get something cheap for the watercooling, like a Corsair H60 V2. As for the GPU I'm thinking on a GTX 760 or something alike. Do you think my PSU can take it?

I don't know if the 760 is still being produced, but it seems to be getting scarce. Check out the GTX 960 instead if you want nvidia, it has the newer Maxwell features and is more power efficient, so even less of an issue with the PSU.

 

[Godan]

The best image quality you can get in the under 24", console suitable category is (still) on the Eizo FG2421 due to its VA panel. The 120Hz + black frame insertion features give it excellent motion clarity, but are only useful for PC. If you were willing to slightly compromise on motion clarity (no drawback on console), then 60Hz IPS displays would also be an option, quite a bit cheaper. The other kind of "better" that is available is G-Sync displays. Currently in the 1080p / 24" size class there's only one that will take console input in addition to PC input, it's made by Benq. It's 144Hz and TN panel, much like the one you linked, so the image quality isn't great but motion clarity is best in the market (in addition to G-Sync it has the ULMB feature that has the same effect as the Eizo's black frame insertion tech).

Thanks for the info. So what would I best be getting if I was just going to only use it for PC? (Might be getting a new TV in the coming months so PS4 and PS3 would be using that)

 

[hellocld]

Assuming you could find a i5 2500K used or 3570K ($170 from Microcenter), it'd be cheaper, but I don't know how well the H61 motherboard would overclock (definitely not as well as a P67 or Z68/Z77 model motherboard) and that might end up being pointless then if the motherboard will hold the CPU back from being overclocked effectively. You would also need a decent CPU cooler ($30 Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo) for overclocking since it's likely you don't already have one.

Ahh, gotcha. Yeah, the main reason I'd go with any K processor is for overclocking, so if my mobo wouldn't do that well I might as well start from scratch. Thanks for the info!

Edit: nvm, apparently it was too early for my brain to attempt a simple Google search.

 

[Sarcasm]

Highly recommend
http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/...-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition

It's what I used when I did mine in 2012. Have a 3570k on asrock that's
been going strong overclocked since day one.

Do I start @ settings?

 

[WhirlwindMonk]

I need to purchase a computer for work. It will be mostly used for 3d modelling, no gaming whatsoever. It should be able to deal with pretty big assemblies. What would be the best route to take? Should I purchase a workstation or pre-built? What would be the GPU, do quadro cards offer really much better performance in this use case? Questions, questions.

At least some clue about where to start would be nice. I have to decide before friday so I don't have much time to make a thorough investigation. The budget is not huge, so no crazy 10000$ GPUs, apart from that I don't have much info either.

Thanks.

I was actually reading a bit about this today. Everything I've seen says you absolutely should use a workstation card; that even a low end one will outperform a high end gaming card in 3D modeling. According to one source, you hit diminishing returns fast on the top end, super expensive cards, so they recommend buying low to mid end for a fraction of the cost and just upgrading more often (once a year at $400 a pop vs. once every three years at $2000 a pop). Ram is cheap, buy lots. For 3D CAD modeling, it sounds like both single threaded and multi threaded performance are critical for different parts, so it seems like the processor is the place to splurge. In the hypothetical build I was pricing today, I tossed in a i7-4790k with a better cooler to overclock from there. That hypothetical build landed at around $1600, but I also had 32 GB of ram and a 500 GB SSD, both of which you could probably cut in half and save ~$200. Depending on how intensive the work you're doing is, you could probably use a 2GB card instead of the 4GB Quadro K2200 I tossed in and save another ~$200.

I'm not well read enough to recommend specific parts, but hopefully that gives you some useful information.

 

[Jimrpg]

Use this guide and refer to this link, they both lead to official ISO downloads from the official Microsoft website.

I'm having a look at the Windows bootable USB guide and came across this -

Now that you’re all done, you might notice that there is a new folder called ESD in the root of your drive, and it is taking up 3 GB of space. You can remove this, but once you do, the installer will get weird and stop working.



So you can delete it if you want, but just know that the installer won’t work, and won’t re-download for some reason. We’ll look into it, but it’s not the most important thing.

What does this mean exactly? I'm using a work laptop, so its going to copy a folder called ESD to the laptop and I won't be able to remove this otherwise the installer won't work? And if I delete it, I won't be able to redownload and make another bootable USB key?

 

[ACE 1991]

It seems like my CPU cooler (the hyper evo 212+ or whatever it's called) is starting to whine a bit when I game, any clues on what might be potentially causing this? My temps are all normal (2500K @4.0ghz, never goes above 61 degrees when under full load and is usually in the high 50s).

 

[RGM79]

I'm having a look at the Windows bootable USB guide and came across this -



What does this mean exactly? I'm using a work laptop, so its going to copy a folder called ESD to the laptop and I won't be able to remove this otherwise the installer won't work? And if I delete it, I won't be able to redownload and make another bootable USB key?

I think they're only mentioning the ESD folder to warn people that it's required for Windows installation and that they should not delete it. After Windows installation is done you can delete it to recover some space and it is not required to make another Windows USB installer.

It seems like my CPU cooler (the hyper evo 212+ or whatever it's called) is starting to whine a bit when I game, any clues on what might be potentially causing this? My temps are all normal (2500K @4.0ghz, never goes above 61 degrees when under full load and is usually in the high 50s).

Whine? Could be a failing fan. See if temporarily unplugging or replacing the fan or adjusting fan speed makes any difference.

 

[ACE 1991]

I think they're only mentioning the ESD folder to warn people that it's required for Windows installation and that they should not delete it. After Windows installation is done you can delete it to recover some space and it is not required to make another Windows USB installer.


Whine? Could be a failing fan. See if temporarily unplugging or replacing the fan or adjusting fan speed makes any difference.

I adjusted the speed, it didn't do too much. Are you suggesting I unplug it and plug it back in when the computer is off?

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

I adjusted the speed, it didn't do too much. Are you suggesting I unplug it and plug it back in when the computer is off?

Yeah do that, but if you have an extra fan, try replacing it. Often when it whines it means the fan is on its way out.

 

[RGM79]

I adjusted the speed, it didn't do too much. Are you suggesting I unplug it and plug it back in when the computer is off?

It's safe to unplug and replug the fan while the computer is on, what I'm suggesting is checking to see whether the whining noise goes away with the fan as it changes speed or stops.

 

[Shadowhaxor]

Looks like I'm in the market for a sound dampening case. I recently added another GTX 970 to my setup as well as an H100i. The two cards when going at 60% are a bit to much for me so I've been playing with the fans and under-volting to get them to an acceptable dba and temp, so far I got them to 70-75c. Still it's a bit loud and I'm going to go pick up a new case to help improve the sound quality and for a better airflow. I currently house my PC in a Corsair 200R and it's not too good with the airflow and with the extra card, it's getting cramped. I have 1 exhaust (120mm) and 3 intakes (120mm) as well as the H100i in a push/pull config.

Setup includes;

Intel i5 3570 overclocked to 4.3GHz (ATX)
2x EVGA GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0 cards
Corsaid 700W PSU (Non-modular)

Case I've looked at:

NZXT H440 - Only downside is there are no optical drive bays.(http://www.microcenter.com/product/429659/H440_White_Full_Tower_Chassis_w-_Window)
NZXT Phantom (http://www.microcenter.com/product/357935/Crafted_Series_Phantom_ATX_Full_Tower_Gaming_Computer_Case)
NZXT H230 - I was this listed in the suggested quiet options but haven't heard anything about the airflow in this case.
Fractal Designs R4 or R5
Corsair Carbide 330R - (http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-330r-quiet-mid-tower-case)


I really like Corsair cases and I'm likely leaning towards the Carbide 330R and a modular PSU, but wanted to see if anyone else had any suggestions/recommendations.

 

[SixStringPsycho]

guys I'm looking for a les strip or a bar for the inside case of my PC And can change colors via remote. so can anyone redirect me to a page that sells them and ships them worldwide I need it shipped to Puerto Rico. As fas as I know my local Tiger direct doesnt sell them.

 

[RGM79]

Looks like I'm in the market for a sound dampening case. I recently added another GTX 970 to my setup as well as an H100i. The two cards when going at 60% are a bit to much for me so I've been playing with the fans and under-volting to get them to an acceptable dba and temp, so far I got them to 70-75c. Still it's a bit loud and I'm going to go pick up a new case to help improve the sound quality and for a better airflow. I currently house my PC in a Corsair 200R and it's not too good with the airflow and with the extra card, it's getting cramped. I have 1 exhaust (120mm) and 3 intakes (120mm) as well as the H100i in a push/pull config.

Setup includes;

Intel i5 3570 overclocked to 4.3GHz (ATX)
2x EVGA GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0 cards
Corsaid 700W PSU (Non-modular)

Case I've looked at:

NZXT H440 - Only downside is there are no optical drive bays.(http://www.microcenter.com/product/429659/H440_White_Full_Tower_Chassis_w-_Window)
NZXT Phantom (http://www.microcenter.com/product/357935/Crafted_Series_Phantom_ATX_Full_Tower_Gaming_Computer_Case)
NZXT H230 - I was this listed in the suggested quiet options but haven't heard anything about the airflow in this case.
Fractal Designs R4 or R5
Corsair Carbide 330R - (http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-330r-quiet-mid-tower-case)


I really like Corsair cases and I'm likely leaning towards the Carbide 330R and a modular PSU, but wanted to see if anyone else had any suggestions/recommendations.

Nanoxia cases usually come recommended when people ask for noise-absorbing cases, but I'm not sure about availability, they seem to be more available over in Europe.

 

[Shadowhaxor]

Nanoxia cases usually come recommended when people ask for noise-absorbing cases, but I'm not sure about availability, they seem to be more available over in Europe.

I looked at those as well and you're right, they are the best of the best. A bit pricey but damned good. Thankfully, they can be purchased via Amazon and I am looking at two of them right now.

My only concern with the Nanoxia Deep Silence 2 and 3, is that the radiator for my h100i would be be installed by the drive cage and parallel from the GPUs. Not sure how much room i'd have but I'm looking into that, otherwise I will definitely get one of the two.

*update* Concern gone, the Nanoxia Deep Silence 2 can support gpu's up to 345, both my cards are under that.

 

[Jimrpg]

I think they're only mentioning the ESD folder to warn people that it's required for Windows installation and that they should not delete it. After Windows installation is done you can delete it to recover some space and it is not required to make another Windows USB installer.

Ok. I guess I'm curious to know how that ESD folder is required for Windows Installation... do I need to stick the USB key back into the laptop I downloaded the Windows USB installer from...

MS should start selling this on USB keys to save us the trouble... its kinda confusing.

 

[RGM79]

Ok. I guess I'm curious to know how that ESD folder is required for Windows Installation... do I need to stick the USB key back into the laptop I downloaded the Windows USB installer from...

MS should start selling this on USB keys to save us the trouble... its kinda confusing.

The ESD folder contains system files for returning Windows to a clean state. I don't understand what you're asking about, is there a reason why you need to plug the USB drive back into the laptop?

 

[Jimrpg]

The ESD folder contains system files for returning Windows to a clean state. I don't understand what you're asking about, is there a reason why you need to plug the USB drive back into the laptop?

Sorry - I guess I'm being overly concerned about something that's not important.

The ESD folder is on my 'new' computer that I installed a fresh copy of windows on, not the laptop I used to download the Windows Installer. Is that right?

The guide was a little confusing.

If that's the case I'm not fussed because I have plenty of space on my 'new' computer.

 

[RGM79]

Sorry - I guess I'm being overly concerned about something that's not important.

The ESD folder is on my 'new' computer that I installed a fresh copy of windows on, not the laptop I used to download the Windows Installer. Is that right?

The guide was a little confusing.

If that's the case I'm not fussed because I have plenty of space on my 'new' computer.

Yeah, that's fine, you don't need to worry about the ESD folder. It doesn't matter where it is, it's automatically created by Windows and doesn't need to be moved.

 

[LegionAgent]

I don't know if the 760 is still being produced, but it seems to be getting scarce. Check out the GTX 960 instead if you want nvidia, it has the newer Maxwell features and is more power efficient, so even less of an issue with the PSU.

Here in Chile there are, just cause technollogy like that comes a little bit later, and what's the newest comes at a really high price. Though that I aside I would still like some advice on some UPS. These are the options I have here at my city:

-Forza NT-1002C, UPS 1000VA 500W 4 Out 220V
-APC UPS 500VA Back RS (BR500CI-AS)
-APC UPS BX650CI-LM, 390 Watts /650 VA, 230V

 

[Bright-Light]

Is there a thread for idiots to ask questuions once they have built their pc but aqre having performance issues that they dont know how to fix? If not, here is my issue.

I am playing Talos principle and gim gettign severe screen tear. If this a fault of the game, my pc or my tv?

 

[yasu151]

Hello GAF! I built this a year ago, and couldn't be happier with the results. It has a 4670k, 760 gtx, Fractal R4 Case. I can overclock it--stable--to 4.2, with 1.21 vcore settings. During the winter it peaks around 55 Celsius, closer to 75 in the summer. Because it gets hot where I live, I usually keep it at the 3.4 default, simply loading the OC'd Bios profile when it needs a boost.

Because this is in the living room, I never connected any hard-drive lights. Many friends/family thought it was a subwoofer or other speaker, because it creates no visible light or audible sound. Super quiet, but oh so speedy.

It's still solid as ever, though I wanted to ask for some advice.

Is there any way to add voice commands to control my entertainment setup? Similar to XB1's interface. I'm assuming I'd need to purchase additional hardware to do so, and believe this would be the best place to start down that path. It'd be pretty cool if I could tell the PC to turn on the TV, change channels, pause etc. I know it's lazy, but I love playing with electronics.

p.s. I've never hosted images for hotlinking until now, so I hope the images below work.

 

[RGM79]

Is there a thread for idiots to ask questuions once they have built their pc but aqre having performance issues that they dont know how to fix? If not, here is my issue.

I am playing Talos principle and gim gettign severe screen tear. If this a fault of the game, my pc or my tv?

Does vsync help?

 

[Bright-Light]

Does vsync help?

I'm not sure I have checked that. Is that something my graphics card should have on it? I will look at it when I get home.

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

I'm not sure I have checked that. Is that something my graphics card should have on it? I will look at it when I get home.

It is something you turn on in each game, or force it via your driver control panel.

 

[tarheel91]

Doesn't seem like any of them have HDMI, no. And I believe AMD cards can carry audio through DVI -> HDMI adapters, if you need it, so it's not really an issue.

They don't have an HDMI out, no. I use a DVI adapter for my secondary 1080P screen. Most stuff you need a 295X2 for, though, you probably want on DisplayPort anyways for the increased bandwidth.

I have a LG34UM95, and it only runs at 50Hz on HDMI so the lack of HDMI is really a nonfactor for me.