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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Tomat

Wanna hear a good joke? Waste your time helping me! LOL!
Looking to get some new monitors soon. Looking at the standard and 120 Hz monitors and I'm wondering, is there any reason I shouldn't go for the 120 Hz monitor? I figure for any game I run well enough the refresh rate would be nice.
 

213372bu

Banned
Looking to get some new monitors soon. Looking at the standard and 120 Hz monitors and I'm wondering, is there any reason I shouldn't go for the 120 Hz monitor? I figure for any game I run well enough the refresh rate would be nice.

If you're gonna be playing at 60 fps or lower on a 120 hz monitor you pretty much will experience stuttering that ranges from just noticeable to pretty bad depending on your fps.

If you want "smooth" 60 fps gameplay go for a 60 hz monitor.
 

Tomat

Wanna hear a good joke? Waste your time helping me! LOL!
If you're gonna be playing at 60 fps or lower on a 120 hz monitor you pretty much will experience stuttering that ranges from just noticeable to pretty bad depending on your fps.

If you want "smooth" 60 fps gameplay go for a 60 hz monitor.

Good to know. Most games I play can be run at 60FPS or higher, but the main game I play usually hovers around 60 or a little lower. Probably not the best idea for me to go with 120Hz then.

Considering and IPS now. Only thing I'm worried about now is input lag.
 

RGM79

Member
Alright, thinking of getting a new PC. How's this for a starter build?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($68.20 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 270 2GB TurboDuo Video Card ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $298.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 08:01 EST-0500

Looks okay, what are the rest of the parts though? Are you using existing parts or have you not picked a case/PSU/etc yet?

Hi guys, need some help, i was thinking about upgrading my aging pc (current config is i5 2500k with noctua cooler, amd 6950, 8gb ram, wd hdd, asrock z97 mobo) and hoping that black friday give something nice here in italy too, my plans were to buy a GTX 970 (MSI or Gigabyte), a 250gb SSD and a new case.

So considering i will play at 1080p (sony bravia tv), do you think i'll be fine with that config? Is it worth getting a 970 now or should i go the way of the reds?

Do you have any nice suggestion for a decent looking case that can be placed in the livingroom without looking a SHIELD device of some kind (something along fractal design lines)?

Thanks and apologise my english

Yes, a GTX 970 or R9 390 would do very well for 1080p gaming. What motherboard model and Noctua cooler do you have? We need to know so we can recommend a case that fits all of your parts, of course.

Im trying to find a way to display native 24fps h265 content to a projector at 1080p. I have had trouble finding set top boxes capable of this. Building might be my best option. I'd like to keep cost <$350, and keep size to a minimum. A preliminary list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD A10-7870K 3.9GHz Quad-Core Processor ($128.95 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9a 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($42.45 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI A88XI AC V2 Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($40.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.10 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $384.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 08:41 EST-0500

Anyone have ideas, suggestions? This build is already on the pricey side, without including a wireless keyboard. I could maybe skip the noctua cooler. I have an old 120GB SSD lying around, so I don't need to buy storage. I also have a Windows license I've been sitting on until I get this put together.

Gaming is not a priority but more a nice-to-have, which is why I'm going with AMD's current top APU.

I'm willing to go a little bigger, but the system should be portable. Anyone who built something similar to this, you got advice?

I'd consider skipping the cooler as well. Anyway, those parts are kind of pricey. This build costs less and will offer more performance, especially for gaming as it comes with a graphics card.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4160 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor ($96.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($41.00 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team Dark 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($19.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $352.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 12:41 EST-0500

Definitely will consider swapping my PSU for this one. Thanks!

I forgot that I had a PCPartspicker account and some of my parts are available through Amazon as well. I'd prefer to stick with those two.
I do not want to exceed $1200 prior to finding a monitor. As it stands, I am at $977.57. I was considering going with an Intel i7 processor since I have a some room to budge. Me wanting a second PC was more so being a little greedy. It doesn't make much sense so forget I said that. What parts would you recommend I change?

I do like that case. Thank you. Would this CPU cooler be efficient? Or are there better options?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Yes, that CPU cooler is pretty good and will even handle overclocking. Here's what I'd recommend given your budget:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1059.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:03 EST-0500

I haven't chosen a monitor, what sort of monitor are you looking for?
 

RGM79

Member
Splitting this into two posts.

Windows and BIOS recognizes my 8 GB of RAM (2 x 4GB), but BIOS says it's running in single channel mode. Windows is also saying that 3.97 of the 8 GB is useable. Resource monitor says that a whopping 4 GB is hardware reserved?

What's the deal here, bad ram stick? Please don't be the Mobo...

I've tried reseating a bunch of times, to no avail.

I can't say I have the exact same problem that you do, but I experienced something possibly similar to your situation. Half of my RAM was also similarly "hardware reserved" and after a ridiculous amount of troubleshooting, I found out my Gigabyte motherboard had bad RAM slots. Thanks to that troubleshooting, I figured out a semi-working RAM configuration - putting a stick of RAM in a certain slot enabled the rest of the RAM to work. I had 1x1GB and 2X4GB in there, the motherboard detected 9GB of RAM with 8GB usable.

Anyway, there are a ton of suggested fixes all over the internet, ranging from resetting BIOS settings and doing BIOS updates, enabling a "memory remap" option in the BIOS if yours has that, reseating the processor, reinstalling Windows, etc.

What would I be better off getting for gaming, the 4690 or 6600?

Do you mean the K models or the non-K models? They shouldn't be too different, but with the Skylake processor and motherboard you can get newer tech like USB 3.1, DDR4, and M.2 slot support which is a little better for any future upgrades you might want to do. Of course, it'll cost more.

Any opinions on this?

http://pc.ncix.com/ncixpc_new/ncixpc.cfm?uuid=572AE6B1-D65A-4A57-A8F78DF36B11B306-6664018

Worth the price? Better then an Alienware Alpha?

Which model of the Alienware Alpha are you comparing this to? We recommend building your own PC for better price to performance, unless you absolutely can't do it.
 

Quotient

Member
I am thinking of getting an Xbox one wireless controller + PC dongle, do any games that supported the X360 pad also support the Xbox one pad?
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
I am thinking of getting an Xbox one wireless controller + PC dongle, do any games that supported the X360 pad also support the Xbox one pad?

Yes. All do. Drivers might be different, but it also might be plug n' play. If not, get the drivers from Microsoft.
 

BlackJace

Member
Splitting this into two posts.



I can't say I have the exact same problem that you do, but I experienced something possibly similar to your situation. Half of my RAM was also similarly "hardware reserved" and after a ridiculous amount of troubleshooting, I found out my Gigabyte motherboard had bad RAM slots. Thanks to that troubleshooting, I figured out a semi-working RAM configuration - putting a stick of RAM in a certain slot enabled the rest of the RAM to work. I had 1x1GB and 2X4GB in there, the motherboard detected 9GB of RAM with 8GB usable.

Anyway, there are a ton of suggested fixes all over the internet, ranging from resetting BIOS settings and doing BIOS updates, enabling a "memory remap" option in the BIOS if yours has that, reseating the processor, reinstalling Windows, etc.



Do you mean the K models or the non-K models? They shouldn't be too different, but with the Skylake processor and motherboard you can get newer tech like USB 3.1, DDR4, and M.2 slot support which is a little better for any future upgrades you might want to do. Of course, it'll cost more.



Which model of the Alienware Alpha are you comparing this to? We recommend building your own PC for better price to performance, unless you absolutely can't do it.

Hm, I take this to mean I should try single sticking, until I find the "bad" slot?
 

Elrina

Neo Member
Planning to upgrade my fiance's PC for Christmas, and give her old one to our daughter. Been about 6 years since I built our current PCs, so I'm a little nervous about it. She wants to be able to mess around with VR next year (although she's okay with min requirements initially), and we're looking at around a $1.5k budget, including a monitor. This is what I ended up with:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($289.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($121.11 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1446.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:32 EST-0500


I figure the 970 will get her in the door and give her a good experience at 1080p for now, and we can upgrade that to Pascal next year around the same time we do my new build. I guess I just want to make sure this looks reasonable for the purpose and budget.
 

RGM79

Member
Hm, I take this to mean I should try single sticking, until I find the "bad" slot?

Yeah, sorry I should have been clearer. Test each stick by itself to make sure they're all good, and then use a known good stick to test each slot by itself. Your BIOS might have a section for showing you RAM specs and performance, see if anything changes in there as you test each configuration.
 

RGM79

Member
Planning to upgrade my fiance's PC for Christmas, and give her old one to our daughter. Been about 6 years since I built our current PCs, so I'm a little nervous about it. She wants to be able to mess around with VR next year (although she's okay with min requirements initially), and we're looking at around a $1.5k budget, including a monitor. This is what I ended up with:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($289.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($121.11 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1446.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:32 EST-0500


I figure the 970 will get her in the door and give her a good experience at 1080p for now, and we can upgrade that to Pascal next year around the same time we do my new build. I guess I just want to make sure this looks reasonable for the purpose and budget.

You can save some money here and there without sacrificing performance or quality. Here's my version of your parts list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1267.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:56 EST-0500

That's better RAM and power supply for a lower price. If you prefer the Cooler Master case you had in your parts list initially, you can keep that if you prefer. The motherboard is lower priced, but it should still be more than adequate for your needs, even including overclocking.

Any deals on a 1TB harddrive this weekend/monday? My Western Digital has been trying to shit the bed for months now.

Newegg very recently had the WD Blue 1TB for $45. It has jumped back up to $51 at the moment, but it may drop back down again soon.
 

BlackJace

Member
Yeah, sorry I should have been clearer. Test each stick by itself to make sure they're all good, and then use a known good stick to test each slot by itself. Your BIOS might have a section for showing you RAM specs and performance, see if anything changes in there as you test each configuration.

Thanks man, dunno what I did, but single sticking then reseating worked.

Odd, computers man.
 

LtOrange

Member
You can save some money here and there without sacrificing performance or quality. Here's my version of your parts list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1267.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:56 EST-0500

That's better RAM and power supply for a lower price. If you prefer the Cooler Master case you had in your parts list initially, you can keep that if you prefer. The motherboard is lower priced, but it should still be more than adequate for your needs, even including overclocking.

This build fits my budget and most of my gaming needs. The only differences are that I was hoping to get a i7 for streaming purposes and a smaller case. Could I easily swap out the i5 for an i7 6700K and find a smaller case that could house those components? Any case recommendations?
 

theRizzle

Member
This build fits my budget and most of my gaming needs. The only differences are that I was hoping to get a i7 for streaming purposes and a smaller case. Could I easily swap out the i5 for an i7 6700K and find a smaller case that could house those components? Any case recommendations?

Yep, the two CPUs are the same socket (1151) so they are interchangeable. If you are looking at a smaller case, you'll want to get a smaller motherboard more likely than not. That one is ATX so you'll want a M-ATX or ITX motherboard and corresponding case. The RVZ01 might be interesting to you.
 

RGM79

Member
This build fits my budget and most of my gaming needs. The only differences are that I was hoping to get a i7 for streaming purposes and a smaller case. Could I easily swap out the i5 for an i7 6700K and find a smaller case that could house those components? Any case recommendations?

Yes, that's totally possible. However, the i7 6700K is hard to recommend at the moment because retailers are selling it at inflated prices due to low stock and availability. The regular MSRP is $359, but the cheapest you'll find it at online is $420. If can travel to a Microcenter store, they do have it for $359 assuming it's in stock.

How small of a case do you want?
 

LtOrange

Member
Yep, the two CPUs are the same socket (1151) so they are interchangeable. If you are looking at a smaller case, you'll want to get a smaller motherboard more likely than not. That one is ATX so you'll want a M-ATX or ITX motherboard and corresponding case. The RVZ01 might be interesting to you.

Thanks!

Yes, that's totally possible. However, the i7 6700K is hard to recommend at the moment because retailers are selling it at inflated prices due to low stock and availability. The regular MSRP is $359, but the cheapest you'll find it at online is $420. If can travel to a Microcenter store, they do have it for $359 assuming it's in stock.

How small of a case do you want?

If streaming is a priority should I go for a i7 4790k then? I want to stay around $1,100 and don't want to waste money if i7-6700k isn't recommended.

Regarding the case, the corsair air 240 in the op looks like a size I would like. I don't want it be so small that it is really difficult to build, but the smaller the better.
 

Xyber

Member
I went for that 500GB SSD on Amazon today and now I have a question. Easiest way to clone my current OS from my 120GB SSD to the new one?
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
Not bad. I'd consider air cooling instead, but the 2013 edition of the Corsair H60 is supposed to be decent.
I just don't want to deal with dust, is all. :p

Not bad? I guess it could be better.

I think I'm homing in on what I want.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($359.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 Fury X 4GB Video Card ($654.49 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($93.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1686.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 15:51 EST-0500
 
Why has Nvidia still not fixed the issue with gsync monitors where running in 144HZ on the desktop forces your video card to never idle? I want to use it for browsing but I don't want my gpu constantly working for nothing.
 

Xyber

Member
Why has Nvidia still not fixed the issue with gsync monitors where running in 144HZ on the desktop forces your video card to never idle? I want to use it for browsing but I don't want my gpu constantly working for nothing.

I had that problem for months on my normal 144Hz monitor, at first I could get it back to normal idle clocks by disabling my second monitor. The second time it started happening nothing would fix it and just had to deal with it for months.

Now it just randomly works like it should again. =/
 
AMD FX processors are outdated (~3 years old now) and very difficult to recommend these days. It's definitely possible to recommend something with better overall performance.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($38.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($72.25 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.10 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: XFX TS 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($25.50 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Acer V246HQL Cbd 60Hz 23.6" Monitor ($112.96 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $975.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 00:55 EST-0500

I could have recommended a GTX 970 instead, but the cheapest decent one at the moment is the Asus Strix for $300 which would bring up the cost of the build to an even $1000. The R9 390 is generally highly competitive with the GTX 970 and is only 3% slower than the GTX 970 at 1080p gameplay.

Appreciate the help. Right now there's an EVGA 970 acx 2.0 on Amazon for $290. How's that card?
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks!

If streaming is a priority should I go for a i7 4790k then? I want to stay around $1,100 and don't want to waste money if i7-6700k isn't recommended.

Regarding the case, the corsair air 240 in the op looks like a size I would like. I don't want it be so small that it is really difficult to build, but the smaller the better.

Perhaps something like this would work.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($289.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1077.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 16:14 EST-0500

Just to be clear, were you thinking of keeping the 144Hz monitor from the other person's parts list? It's $200 and I assume you aren't.

I went for that 500GB SSD on Amazon today and now I have a question. Easiest way to clone my current OS from my 120GB SSD to the new one?
Follow this guide, it's fairly easy.

I just don't want to deal with dust, is all. :p

Not bad? I guess it could be better. I think I'm homing in on what I want.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($359.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 Fury X 4GB Video Card ($654.49 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($93.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1686.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 15:51 EST-0500

You'll still get dust with a water cooler, it doesn't change how much there will be. I don't recommend that motherboard, just look at the reviews and you'll see numerous complaints about the BIOS and RAM compatibility. The GTX 980 Ti is usually preferred over the Fury X, but if you prefer AMD then that's up to you. Do you really need 32GB of RAM? What sort of work will you be doing on the PC?

I was recommended a Coolermaster Seidon for my Coolermaster ELite 130 case - but is this the best AIO solutions? Will other AIOs fit?

Most other 120mm AIO water coolers should fit. I'm not sure what you mean by best, are you only looking for best cooling performance? Does noise level matter? Or is there a certain price that you're looking for?
 

Jharp

Member
The uncontrollable itch to build a new PC is coming on to me, GAF. Goddammit.

I can technically afford it right now, but it would be pretty irresponsible for me to buy one now. However, with all the insane deals going on, I am thinking of nabbing a few parts that I won't have to worry about such quick obsolescence. Namely a case, an SSD and hard drive, and a power supply. On top of that, MAYBE a mobo and RAM. Wouldn't be so bad having a PC ready to have a processor and graphics card slapped in before turning it on.

So what does GAF think of my plan? Dumb? It seems dumb, but oh-so-tempting. Would grabbing a mobo now be a mistake if I don't build the PC for another six months?
 
I had that problem for months on my normal 144Hz monitor, at first I could get it back to normal idle clocks by disabling my second monitor. The second time it started happening nothing would fix it and just had to deal with it for months.

Now it just randomly works like it should again. =/
I unplugged my TV that I use as my secondary screen but that didn't change it sadly. Maybe one day it'll work as intended, one beautiful day ;-;

Don't really use 144 much given for games if I can hit 120 I turn on ULMB and outside of games it still forces my graphics card to run.
 

LtOrange

Member
Perhaps something like this would work.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($289.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1077.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 16:14 EST-0500

Just to be clear, were you thinking of keeping the 144Hz monitor from the other person's parts list? It's $200 and I assume you aren't.

I wasn't planning on keeping the monitor, so this build looks great. Thank you for all your help!
 

RGM79

Member
The uncontrollable itch to build a new PC is coming on to me, GAF. Goddammit.

I can technically afford it right now, but it would be pretty irresponsible for me to buy one now. However, with all the insane deals going on, I am thinking of nabbing a few parts that I won't have to worry about such quick obsolescence. Namely a case, an SSD and hard drive, and a power supply. On top of that, MAYBE a mobo and RAM. Wouldn't be so bad having a PC ready to have a processor and graphics card slapped in before turning it on.

So what does GAF think of my plan? Dumb? It seems dumb, but oh-so-tempting. Would grabbing a mobo now be a mistake if I don't build the PC for another six months?

I wouldn't buy a motherboard or graphics card now if you don't plan to build for at least six months. You'll be doing nothing but allowing the warranty coverage to run out. Those seem to be the parts that are most likely to be defective out of the box, anyway. Most online retailers only have a short period (30 days? depends on the retailer) to allow for returns or exchanges in case there is something wrong with what you bought. You'll want to have that available to you, so save those for the last.

SSDs and hard drives are rarely defective out of the box, but you'd also be running down the warranty on them early. Buying a case is fairly safe, it is just a chassis for everything else to be mounted to. Most RAM manufacturers offer lifetime warranty, so that is also safe. Processors are alright to buy, they are almost never defective as the quality control for processor production is extremely tight.

Power supplies are something you could buy right now. There's a good deal on EVGA platinum-efficiency power supplies, specifically the ones from 650 to 1000 watts. While power supplies are similar to motherboards and graphics cards in that they are more likely to be a point of failure when building a new PC and you would also be running down the warranty on them, these EVGA PSUs are well-regarded for high build quality and they have a 10 year warranty, so 6 months won't matter that much to the warranty coverage.

Thank you.
I wasn't planning on keeping the monitor, so this build looks great. Thank you for all your help!
No problem.
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
You'll still get dust with a water cooler, it doesn't change how much there will be. I don't recommend that motherboard, just look at the reviews and you'll see numerous complaints about the BIOS and RAM compatibility. The GTX 980 Ti is usually preferred over the Fury X, but if you prefer AMD then that's up to you. Do you really need 32GB of RAM? What sort of work will you be doing on the PC?
I know dust still exists, but I just don't like it getting all in the sink. Does that make sense? :p

The idea of water cooling just fascinates me, too. I don't have an AC, either, so in hot summers, I don't want hot air blowing into more hot air.

I'm not decided on the graphics card yet, since I'm debating whether to get a 970 at a lower price and then upgrade next year. (Probably give it to the BF.)

I don't need the 32GBs, but I don't see why not.
 

RGM79

Member
I know dust still exists, but I just don't like it getting all in the sink. Does that make sense? :p

The idea of water cooling just fascinates me, too. I don't have an AC, either, so in hot summers, I don't want hot air blowing into more hot air.

I'm not decided on the graphics card yet, since I'm debating whether to get a 970 at a lower price and then upgrade next year. (Probably give it to the BF.)

I don't need the 32GBs, but I don't see why not.

I guess, just keep in mind that it'll be going into the radiator instead. And you still get hot air from a radiator, just mounted on the case instead of above the CPU. If you're worried about dust, there are cases with removable mesh dust filters you can clean easily.
 

Xyber

Member
I guess, just keep in mind that it'll be going into the radiator instead. And you still get hot air from a radiator, just mounted on the case instead of above the CPU. If you're worried about dust, there are cases with removable mesh dust filters you can clean easily.

I would recommend anyone buying a fairly expensive PC to invest in a case with good and easily accessible dust filters. I had my previous case for 4 years, never had to clean it out a single time and it was still almost dust free inside.

And the image is from the Fractal Design R5, which is my current case and I can definitely recommend that one. Really easy to build in, lots of room behind the motherboard to hide cables, removable HDD/DVD cages to get rid of unnecessary stuff you don't need.

Really quiet as well.
 
I'm not sure if anyone can help with this, but I'm trying to figure something out.

As the holidays come on us, I'm always tempted by new laptop deals and may actually change over eventually. However at the moment, my Acer Aspire Acer Aspire M5-481PT is doing a pretty good job of meeting my needs. The only downside is that after all these years of use, it's starting to lack the battery oomph it used to have. I can get an hour or two at most of out it, even on Windows 10 (Battery saver seems to not have any effect).

I'd like to try and keep my laptop going, but I don't know the first thing about getting a new battery for this. From what I've read, it seems like I can replace it, but who is a good after market battery company to buy from? Or is this whole thing a little silly (or unfeasible), and I should just try to find a power cord with extra length to it?

Thanks for any help you can give!
 

RGM79

Member
I'm not sure if anyone can help with this, but I'm trying to figure something out.

As the holidays come on us, I'm always tempted by new laptop deals and may actually change over eventually. However at the moment, my Acer Aspire Acer Aspire M5-481PT is doing a pretty good job of meeting my needs. The only downside is that after all these years of use, it's starting to lack the battery oomph it used to have. I can get an hour or two at most of out it, even on Windows 10 (Battery saver seems to not have any effect).

I'd like to try and keep my laptop going, but I don't know the first thing about getting a new battery for this. From what I've read, it seems like I can replace it, but who is a good after market battery company to buy from? Or is this whole thing a little silly (or unfeasible), and I should just try to find a power cord with extra length to it?

Thanks for any help you can give!

It's feasible, but finding a good aftermarket battery is difficult. You can get a PDF of the service manual that tells you how to replace the battery pack. If you don't mind trying anyway, I suggest ebay. Buy from a top rated seller, and at the very least if the battery turns out to be no good, contact the seller and try to negotiate. If that doesn't work, then you can contact Paypal and open a dispute.
 
I think it's time for me to build a new gaming PC after 10 years! In 2016 I got my first laptop and in early 2007 I got a Wii, so I haven't bothered with PC gaming since.

I want to get a VR headset, but I'd prefer to wait for the next gen GPUs from nVidia or ATi
AMD
before spending $500 on a card. I'm also not sure how much I'll play anyways :p.

I plan to mainly play games such as Cities XL, Prison Architect, also my huge Steam indie game backlog, Xenoblade X and Beyond: Two Souls, but a PC is probably not very useful for those two games. Ooh, I may emulate Shenmue, as I'm too lazy to (re)buy a Dreamcast and figure out how to use HDMI with it.

Here's my proposed build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($4.63 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master Novatouch TKL Wired Standard Keyboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($39.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1659.49
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 18:13 EST-0500

Honestly I don't know what I'd play besides the games I mentioned&#8230; lol, that's a lot of money. :'(
 
Yes, that CPU cooler is pretty good and will even handle overclocking. Here's what I'd recommend given your budget:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1059.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:03 EST-0500

I haven't chosen a monitor, what sort of monitor are you looking for?

Thank you for your recommendations! I will make some changes. The most important aspect of a monitor for me is one with low input lag as I play a lot of fighting and action games. Low-to-mid 20" should suffice. 1080p is a must too. What I might do is just hook up my rig to my Sony 40" KDL or whatever TV I score this holiday
 
Here, I'll recommend a list of parts geared toward silence that has similar performance compared to the "excellent overall" build.

(Some Really Cool Parts)

Thank you very much. Price is perfectly fine and lower than what I expected.
16GB of RAM is definitely something I want, before when 4GB RAM was the standard most people said 8GB was overkill...now it's standard. So we're moving toward that time anyways I think.

Beside the computer accessories (keyboard/mouse/monitor), would there be anything else I need? I can't shake the feeling I'm missing something
 

Unicorn

Member
I'm running stuff from 2009.

Gtx 460, i5, 4gb ram, and an micro atx board.

Looking to boost myself up before pascal or whatever the new shit will be in 2017ish.

So, in the market for a new card, ram... maybe a new board and processor depending on prices.

Any insight on deals today or tomorrow to help me out?
 

RGM79

Member
Thank you for your recommendations! I will make some changes. The most important aspect of a monitor for me is one with low input lag as I play a lot of fighting and action games. Low-to-mid 20" should suffice. 1080p is a must too. What I might do is just hook up my rig to my Sony 40" KDL or whatever TV I score this holiday

I'm not much of a monitor guy.. but these look nice?

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/acer-monitor-umfg6aab01
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vg248qe

These seem to be well known for low lag. Someone else might have better suggestions.

I think it's time for me to build a new gaming PC after 10 years! In 2016 I got my first laptop and in early 2007 I got a Wii, so I haven't bothered with PC gaming since.

I want to get a VR headset, but I'd prefer to wait for the next gen GPUs from nVidia or ATi
AMD
before spending $500 on a card. I'm also not sure how much I'll play anyways :p.

I plan to mainly play games such as Cities XL, Prison Architect, also my huge Steam indie game backlog, Xenoblade X and Beyond: Two Souls, but a PC is probably not very useful for those two games. Ooh, I may emulate Shenmue, as I'm too lazy to (re)buy a Dreamcast and figure out how to use HDMI with it.

Here's my proposed build:

Honestly I don't know what I'd play besides the games I mentioned&#8230; lol, that's a lot of money. :'(

Looks mostly fine to me, seems like you've been looking at the last few pages for recommended parts. I'd think about avoiding that motherboard, though. There are lots of negative reviews on newegg mainly complaining about the BIOS. There are much fewer negative reviews on Amazon though, so it's up to you if you want to take the risk.
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
I would recommend anyone buying a fairly expensive PC to invest in a case with good and easily accessible dust filters. I had my previous case for 4 years, never had to clean it out a single time and it was still almost dust free inside.

And the image is from the Fractal Design R5, which is my current case and I can definitely recommend that one. Really easy to build in, lots of room behind the motherboard to hide cables, removable HDD/DVD cages to get rid of unnecessary stuff you don't need.

Really quiet as well.
Any fan recommendations for the inside?

I guess, just keep in mind that it'll be going into the radiator instead. And you still get hot air from a radiator, just mounted on the case instead of above the CPU. If you're worried about dust, there are cases with removable mesh dust filters you can clean easily.
I just swapped the other case for the R5.

You're really trying hard to dissuade me from water. :p
 

ZQQLANDER

Member
Am I missing something or have the sales so far been underwhelming? I guess tomorrow is black friday, but still.

Anyone know if the Skylake processors will go on sale?
 

Syril

Member
I would recommend a cooler like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. It's cheap yet effective enough for moderate overclocking. You would need a Z170 motherboard to be able to overclock. You'll find some recommendations on this page and the last one as well. As for the power supply, I would recommend a decent 550 watt or stronger model, preferably from the likes of XFX, Seasonic, EVGA, etc. Your existing PSU says it is only rated for 400 watts on the 12V rail, that is important as the 12V rail is responsible for providing the main source of power for your processor and motherboard. I'd be inclined to say your PSU is more like a 400 watt model than actually 500 watts. Specific recommendations will depend on pricing, I'm on the go at the moment otherwise I'd pick some examples for you.
Alright, that's good to know. If I don't plan on overclocking at first, will I still need a cooler to start with? Also, about memory, the motherboards I look at say things like "DDR4 3400*(*O.C.)/ 3333*/ 3200*/ 3100*/ 3000*/ 2933*/ 2800*/ 2666*/ 2600*/ 2400*/ 2133". I know DDR4 is the type of memory I'll be using, but I don't know what the other numbers mean. Thanks for all your help with this by the way.
 
One of the speakers in my Logitech X-540 5.1 speakers are dying. I have a pair of Superlux headphones I'll use in the meantime but I prefer using speakers. What 5.1 speakers offer the best bang for your buck? I'll be using this almost exclusively for gaming. Thanks.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Alright, that's good to know. If I don't plan on overclocking at first, will I still need a cooler to start with? Also, about memory, the motherboards I look at say things like "DDR4 3400*(*O.C.)/ 3333*/ 3200*/ 3100*/ 3000*/ 2933*/ 2800*/ 2666*/ 2600*/ 2400*/ 2133". I know DDR4 is the type of memory I'll be using, but I don't know what the other numbers mean. Thanks for all your help with this by the way.

It would be good to use the cooler from the start, even if you aren't OCing right away. That way you don't have to remove the stock cooler and clean the CPU.

Those numbers are the memory speeds. Generally it doesn't matter much, you just want to make sure your memory and motherboard support the same speeds. This only ends up being an issue if you have a cheap board that doesn't support high speeds, with high speed RAM. But even then you can just run the memory at lower speeds and be fine.



Speaking of coolers, this sounds kind of crazy but I want to get an AIO to replace my NH-D14. I've mentioned it before, but giant metal coolers like that make doing anything in your case a pain, and it probably won't fit in my next case anyway (thinking ITX, but who knows when).

Curious which to look into, for future compatibility I probably wouldn't want one bigger than 120mm. Not sure who makes good ones, Corsair did, H80i GT might be too big though? And it's expensive for that size.
 
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