Should I hop on a 970 from Newegg for $260 or wait for Black Friday/ Cyber Monday?
Link please!!!
Should I hop on a 970 from Newegg for $260 or wait for Black Friday/ Cyber Monday?
Link please!!!
Looking to get some new monitors soon. Looking at the standard and 120 Hz monitors and I'm wondering, is there any reason I shouldn't go for the 120 Hz monitor? I figure for any game I run well enough the refresh rate would be nice.
If you're gonna be playing at 60 fps or lower on a 120 hz monitor you pretty much will experience stuttering that ranges from just noticeable to pretty bad depending on your fps.
If you want "smooth" 60 fps gameplay go for a 60 hz monitor.
Alright, thinking of getting a new PC. How's this for a starter build?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($68.20 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 270 2GB TurboDuo Video Card ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $298.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 08:01 EST-0500
Hi guys, need some help, i was thinking about upgrading my aging pc (current config is i5 2500k with noctua cooler, amd 6950, 8gb ram, wd hdd, asrock z97 mobo) and hoping that black friday give something nice here in italy too, my plans were to buy a GTX 970 (MSI or Gigabyte), a 250gb SSD and a new case.
So considering i will play at 1080p (sony bravia tv), do you think i'll be fine with that config? Is it worth getting a 970 now or should i go the way of the reds?
Do you have any nice suggestion for a decent looking case that can be placed in the livingroom without looking a SHIELD device of some kind (something along fractal design lines)?
Thanks and apologise my english
Im trying to find a way to display native 24fps h265 content to a projector at 1080p. I have had trouble finding set top boxes capable of this. Building might be my best option. I'd like to keep cost <$350, and keep size to a minimum. A preliminary list:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD A10-7870K 3.9GHz Quad-Core Processor ($128.95 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9a 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($42.45 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI A88XI AC V2 Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($40.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.10 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $384.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 08:41 EST-0500
Anyone have ideas, suggestions? This build is already on the pricey side, without including a wireless keyboard. I could maybe skip the noctua cooler. I have an old 120GB SSD lying around, so I don't need to buy storage. I also have a Windows license I've been sitting on until I get this put together.
Gaming is not a priority but more a nice-to-have, which is why I'm going with AMD's current top APU.
I'm willing to go a little bigger, but the system should be portable. Anyone who built something similar to this, you got advice?
Definitely will consider swapping my PSU for this one. Thanks!
I forgot that I had a PCPartspicker account and some of my parts are available through Amazon as well. I'd prefer to stick with those two.
I do not want to exceed $1200 prior to finding a monitor. As it stands, I am at $977.57. I was considering going with an Intel i7 processor since I have a some room to budge. Me wanting a second PC was more so being a little greedy. It doesn't make much sense so forget I said that. What parts would you recommend I change?
I do like that case. Thank you. Would this CPU cooler be efficient? Or are there better options?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Windows and BIOS recognizes my 8 GB of RAM (2 x 4GB), but BIOS says it's running in single channel mode. Windows is also saying that 3.97 of the 8 GB is useable. Resource monitor says that a whopping 4 GB is hardware reserved?
What's the deal here, bad ram stick? Please don't be the Mobo...
I've tried reseating a bunch of times, to no avail.
What would I be better off getting for gaming, the 4690 or 6600?
Any opinions on this?
http://pc.ncix.com/ncixpc_new/ncixpc.cfm?uuid=572AE6B1-D65A-4A57-A8F78DF36B11B306-6664018
Worth the price? Better then an Alienware Alpha?
I am thinking of getting an Xbox one wireless controller + PC dongle, do any games that supported the X360 pad also support the Xbox one pad?
Yes. All do. Drivers might be different, but it also might be plug n' play. If not, get the drivers from Microsoft.
Splitting this into two posts.
I can't say I have the exact same problem that you do, but I experienced something possibly similar to your situation. Half of my RAM was also similarly "hardware reserved" and after a ridiculous amount of troubleshooting, I found out my Gigabyte motherboard had bad RAM slots. Thanks to that troubleshooting, I figured out a semi-working RAM configuration - putting a stick of RAM in a certain slot enabled the rest of the RAM to work. I had 1x1GB and 2X4GB in there, the motherboard detected 9GB of RAM with 8GB usable.
Anyway, there are a ton of suggested fixes all over the internet, ranging from resetting BIOS settings and doing BIOS updates, enabling a "memory remap" option in the BIOS if yours has that, reseating the processor, reinstalling Windows, etc.
Do you mean the K models or the non-K models? They shouldn't be too different, but with the Skylake processor and motherboard you can get newer tech like USB 3.1, DDR4, and M.2 slot support which is a little better for any future upgrades you might want to do. Of course, it'll cost more.
Which model of the Alienware Alpha are you comparing this to? We recommend building your own PC for better price to performance, unless you absolutely can't do it.
Hm, I take this to mean I should try single sticking, until I find the "bad" slot?
Planning to upgrade my fiance's PC for Christmas, and give her old one to our daughter. Been about 6 years since I built our current PCs, so I'm a little nervous about it. She wants to be able to mess around with VR next year (although she's okay with min requirements initially), and we're looking at around a $1.5k budget, including a monitor. This is what I ended up with:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($289.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($121.11 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1446.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:32 EST-0500
I figure the 970 will get her in the door and give her a good experience at 1080p for now, and we can upgrade that to Pascal next year around the same time we do my new build. I guess I just want to make sure this looks reasonable for the purpose and budget.
Any deals on a 1TB harddrive this weekend/monday? My Western Digital has been trying to shit the bed for months now.
Yeah, sorry I should have been clearer. Test each stick by itself to make sure they're all good, and then use a known good stick to test each slot by itself. Your BIOS might have a section for showing you RAM specs and performance, see if anything changes in there as you test each configuration.
You can save some money here and there without sacrificing performance or quality. Here's my version of your parts list:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1267.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:56 EST-0500
That's better RAM and power supply for a lower price. If you prefer the Cooler Master case you had in your parts list initially, you can keep that if you prefer. The motherboard is lower priced, but it should still be more than adequate for your needs, even including overclocking.
This build fits my budget and most of my gaming needs. The only differences are that I was hoping to get a i7 for streaming purposes and a smaller case. Could I easily swap out the i5 for an i7 6700K and find a smaller case that could house those components? Any case recommendations?
This build fits my budget and most of my gaming needs. The only differences are that I was hoping to get a i7 for streaming purposes and a smaller case. Could I easily swap out the i5 for an i7 6700K and find a smaller case that could house those components? Any case recommendations?
Yep, the two CPUs are the same socket (1151) so they are interchangeable. If you are looking at a smaller case, you'll want to get a smaller motherboard more likely than not. That one is ATX so you'll want a M-ATX or ITX motherboard and corresponding case. The RVZ01 might be interesting to you.
Yes, that's totally possible. However, the i7 6700K is hard to recommend at the moment because retailers are selling it at inflated prices due to low stock and availability. The regular MSRP is $359, but the cheapest you'll find it at online is $420. If can travel to a Microcenter store, they do have it for $359 assuming it's in stock.
How small of a case do you want?
I just don't want to deal with dust, is all.Not bad. I'd consider air cooling instead, but the 2013 edition of the Corsair H60 is supposed to be decent.
Why has Nvidia still not fixed the issue with gsync monitors where running in 144HZ on the desktop forces your video card to never idle? I want to use it for browsing but I don't want my gpu constantly working for nothing.
AMD FX processors are outdated (~3 years old now) and very difficult to recommend these days. It's definitely possible to recommend something with better overall performance.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($38.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($72.25 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.10 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: XFX TS 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($25.50 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Acer V246HQL Cbd 60Hz 23.6" Monitor ($112.96 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $975.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 00:55 EST-0500
I could have recommended a GTX 970 instead, but the cheapest decent one at the moment is the Asus Strix for $300 which would bring up the cost of the build to an even $1000. The R9 390 is generally highly competitive with the GTX 970 and is only 3% slower than the GTX 970 at 1080p gameplay.
Thanks!
If streaming is a priority should I go for a i7 4790k then? I want to stay around $1,100 and don't want to waste money if i7-6700k isn't recommended.
Regarding the case, the corsair air 240 in the op looks like a size I would like. I don't want it be so small that it is really difficult to build, but the smaller the better.
Follow this guide, it's fairly easy.I went for that 500GB SSD on Amazon today and now I have a question. Easiest way to clone my current OS from my 120GB SSD to the new one?
I just don't want to deal with dust, is all.
Not bad? I guess it could be better. I think I'm homing in on what I want.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($359.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 Fury X 4GB Video Card ($654.49 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($93.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1686.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 15:51 EST-0500
I was recommended a Coolermaster Seidon for my Coolermaster ELite 130 case - but is this the best AIO solutions? Will other AIOs fit?
I unplugged my TV that I use as my secondary screen but that didn't change it sadly. Maybe one day it'll work as intended, one beautiful day ;-;I had that problem for months on my normal 144Hz monitor, at first I could get it back to normal idle clocks by disabling my second monitor. The second time it started happening nothing would fix it and just had to deal with it for months.
Now it just randomly works like it should again. =/
Follow this guide, it's fairly easy.
Perhaps something like this would work.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($289.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1077.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 16:14 EST-0500
Just to be clear, were you thinking of keeping the 144Hz monitor from the other person's parts list? It's $200 and I assume you aren't.
The uncontrollable itch to build a new PC is coming on to me, GAF. Goddammit.
I can technically afford it right now, but it would be pretty irresponsible for me to buy one now. However, with all the insane deals going on, I am thinking of nabbing a few parts that I won't have to worry about such quick obsolescence. Namely a case, an SSD and hard drive, and a power supply. On top of that, MAYBE a mobo and RAM. Wouldn't be so bad having a PC ready to have a processor and graphics card slapped in before turning it on.
So what does GAF think of my plan? Dumb? It seems dumb, but oh-so-tempting. Would grabbing a mobo now be a mistake if I don't build the PC for another six months?
Thank you.
No problem.I wasn't planning on keeping the monitor, so this build looks great. Thank you for all your help!
I know dust still exists, but I just don't like it getting all in the sink. Does that make sense?You'll still get dust with a water cooler, it doesn't change how much there will be. I don't recommend that motherboard, just look at the reviews and you'll see numerous complaints about the BIOS and RAM compatibility. The GTX 980 Ti is usually preferred over the Fury X, but if you prefer AMD then that's up to you. Do you really need 32GB of RAM? What sort of work will you be doing on the PC?
I know dust still exists, but I just don't like it getting all in the sink. Does that make sense?
The idea of water cooling just fascinates me, too. I don't have an AC, either, so in hot summers, I don't want hot air blowing into more hot air.
I'm not decided on the graphics card yet, since I'm debating whether to get a 970 at a lower price and then upgrade next year. (Probably give it to the BF.)
I don't need the 32GBs, but I don't see why not.
I guess, just keep in mind that it'll be going into the radiator instead. And you still get hot air from a radiator, just mounted on the case instead of above the CPU. If you're worried about dust, there are cases with removable mesh dust filters you can clean easily.
I'm not sure if anyone can help with this, but I'm trying to figure something out.
As the holidays come on us, I'm always tempted by new laptop deals and may actually change over eventually. However at the moment, my Acer Aspire Acer Aspire M5-481PT is doing a pretty good job of meeting my needs. The only downside is that after all these years of use, it's starting to lack the battery oomph it used to have. I can get an hour or two at most of out it, even on Windows 10 (Battery saver seems to not have any effect).
I'd like to try and keep my laptop going, but I don't know the first thing about getting a new battery for this. From what I've read, it seems like I can replace it, but who is a good after market battery company to buy from? Or is this whole thing a little silly (or unfeasible), and I should just try to find a power cord with extra length to it?
Thanks for any help you can give!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($4.63 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master Novatouch TKL Wired Standard Keyboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($39.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1659.49
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 18:13 EST-0500
Yes, that CPU cooler is pretty good and will even handle overclocking. Here's what I'd recommend given your budget:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($77.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1059.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-26 13:03 EST-0500
I haven't chosen a monitor, what sort of monitor are you looking for?
Here, I'll recommend a list of parts geared toward silence that has similar performance compared to the "excellent overall" build.
(Some Really Cool Parts)
Thank you for your recommendations! I will make some changes. The most important aspect of a monitor for me is one with low input lag as I play a lot of fighting and action games. Low-to-mid 20" should suffice. 1080p is a must too. What I might do is just hook up my rig to my Sony 40" KDL or whatever TV I score this holiday
I think it's time for me to build a new gaming PC after 10 years! In 2016 I got my first laptop and in early 2007 I got a Wii, so I haven't bothered with PC gaming since.
I want to get a VR headset, but I'd prefer to wait for the next gen GPUs from nVidia or ATibefore spending $500 on a card. I'm also not sure how much I'll play anywaysAMD.
I plan to mainly play games such as Cities XL, Prison Architect, also my huge Steam indie game backlog, Xenoblade X and Beyond: Two Souls, but a PC is probably not very useful for those two games. Ooh, I may emulate Shenmue, as I'm too lazy to (re)buy a Dreamcast and figure out how to use HDMI with it.
Here's my proposed build:
Honestly I don't know what I'd play besides the games I mentioned… lol, that's a lot of money. :'(
Any fan recommendations for the inside?I would recommend anyone buying a fairly expensive PC to invest in a case with good and easily accessible dust filters. I had my previous case for 4 years, never had to clean it out a single time and it was still almost dust free inside.
And the image is from the Fractal Design R5, which is my current case and I can definitely recommend that one. Really easy to build in, lots of room behind the motherboard to hide cables, removable HDD/DVD cages to get rid of unnecessary stuff you don't need.
Really quiet as well.
I just swapped the other case for the R5.I guess, just keep in mind that it'll be going into the radiator instead. And you still get hot air from a radiator, just mounted on the case instead of above the CPU. If you're worried about dust, there are cases with removable mesh dust filters you can clean easily.
Alright, that's good to know. If I don't plan on overclocking at first, will I still need a cooler to start with? Also, about memory, the motherboards I look at say things like "DDR4 3400*(*O.C.)/ 3333*/ 3200*/ 3100*/ 3000*/ 2933*/ 2800*/ 2666*/ 2600*/ 2400*/ 2133". I know DDR4 is the type of memory I'll be using, but I don't know what the other numbers mean. Thanks for all your help with this by the way.I would recommend a cooler like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. It's cheap yet effective enough for moderate overclocking. You would need a Z170 motherboard to be able to overclock. You'll find some recommendations on this page and the last one as well. As for the power supply, I would recommend a decent 550 watt or stronger model, preferably from the likes of XFX, Seasonic, EVGA, etc. Your existing PSU says it is only rated for 400 watts on the 12V rail, that is important as the 12V rail is responsible for providing the main source of power for your processor and motherboard. I'd be inclined to say your PSU is more like a 400 watt model than actually 500 watts. Specific recommendations will depend on pricing, I'm on the go at the moment otherwise I'd pick some examples for you.
Alright, that's good to know. If I don't plan on overclocking at first, will I still need a cooler to start with? Also, about memory, the motherboards I look at say things like "DDR4 3400*(*O.C.)/ 3333*/ 3200*/ 3100*/ 3000*/ 2933*/ 2800*/ 2666*/ 2600*/ 2400*/ 2133". I know DDR4 is the type of memory I'll be using, but I don't know what the other numbers mean. Thanks for all your help with this by the way.