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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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LilJoka

Member
The only thing about my Gigabyte board I don't like so far is that some options in the bios are not explained whatsoever. For instance, trying to figure out what "voltage optimization" does is a real PITA, among other things.

Thanks to both of you. I'm going to keep stress testing everything but I think the bios finally solved the rest of my issues with my MB. Ya some of the options are damn vague.

A lot of the times the options are very vague no matter the brand, its been like this as long as i can remember. Even the manual has the exact same sentence as seen in the bios for its meaning.

Luckily these days we rarely need to mess with more than a hand full of options. The manufacturers do quite a goo job at "look up tables" for AUTO settings as they test many CPUs to find some average settings for all the overclocks. This is usually why more expensive boards are better, since these hidden presets when using AUTO are much more clever.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Alright, my list of components is done! I have everything except for the case, which I should be receiving Tuesday.

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Black mATX
Motherboard: Asus RoG Maximus VIII Gene mATX
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K
Cooling: Corsair H115i 280mm
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x8GB DDR4-3200
SSD: Mushkin Enhanced Reactor 1tb
GPU: Reusing GTX 680. Waiting on Pascal.

I would have went with a Samsung 850 Pro drive, but at nearly half the cost, the Mushkin was too hard to pass up, considering it's pretty well reviewed.
 
Hey guys, I just wanted some advice. I just recently got done watching this video, comparing i3, i5's and i7's.

My current PC is a i5-3570k @ 4.2, 680 SLI (2GB) and 16GB RAM.

Going by that video, it almost seems like I could potentially slap in a 980Ti and or greater, and be good for a while to come. But as my current computer is 4 years old, I'm quite tempted in building an entirely new system, with an i7 CPU, as well as having liquid cooling for both GPU / CPU.

I'm not big on upgrading, I much prefer to build a new system every few years. What is my best option. Should I upgrade my GPU...or just go with building an entirely new system? I think it's also important to note that I do want the best experience possible. I do want to be able to max out games comfortably. I'm especially wanting to play Total War: Warhammer trouble free.
 

LilJoka

Member
Hey guys, I just wanted some advice. I just recently got done watching this video, comparing i3, i5's and i7's.

My current PC is a i5-3570k @ 4.2, 680 SLI (2GB) and 16GB RAM.

Going by that video, it almost seems like I could potentially slap in a 980Ti and or greater, and be good for a while to come. But as my current computer is 4 years old, I'm quite tempted in building an entirely new system, with an i7 CPU, as well as having liquid cooling for both GPU / CPU.

I'm not big on upgrading, I much prefer to build a new system every few years. What is my best option. Should I upgrade my GPU...or just go with building an entirely new system? I think it's also important to note that I do want the best experience possible. I do want to be able to max out games comfortably. I'm especially wanting to play Total War: Warhammer trouble free.

Upgrade the GPU first. Later if need be upgrade the board and CPU. But i would consider a 3770k some time down the line and overclock it.
2133Mhz+ DDR3 helps too.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Hey guys, I just wanted some advice. I just recently got done watching this video, comparing i3, i5's and i7's.

My current PC is a i5-3570k @ 4.2, 680 SLI (2GB) and 16GB RAM.

Going by that video, it almost seems like I could potentially slap in a 980Ti and or greater, and be good for a while to come. But as my current computer is 4 years old, I'm quite tempted in building an entirely new system, with an i7 CPU, as well as having liquid cooling for both GPU / CPU.

I'm not big on upgrading, I much prefer to build a new system every few years. What is my best option. Should I upgrade my GPU...or just go with building an entirely new system? I think it's also important to note that I do want the best experience possible. I do want to be able to max out games comfortably. I'm especially wanting to play Total War: Warhammer trouble free.

You're in a similar situation as me. I had a 2500K and single 680.

Right now is a decent time to upgrade processors. This is really the first generation that is overclocking well enough to have a substantial improvement over our CPUs. But still, with a new CPU, you're looking more at raising minimum framerates more than average framerates overall. This was important to me since I'm building for VR. You could definitely hang on to your CPU longer if you wanted to.

With 2x 680, I don't feel you should upgrade to a 980 Ti right now. It may have been worth it when it first came out, but the 9 series is extremely long in the tooth and we're overdue for a new generation. Wait for Pascal.

What's your FPS target? If you're targetting 60fps, I don't think I'd even consider a CPU upgrade. When you're looking at 90+ for VR, or 100+ for high refresh displays, then it's a bit more worthwhile.
 

ethomaz

Banned
publicpwnerer ;)

In my case I will wait the new AND/nVidia GPUs late this year.

I guess it is a better option to you right now... but the new gen GPU and next year or so start building a new system using this GPU.
 
You're in a similar situation as me. I had a 2500K and single 680.

Right now is a decent time to upgrade processors. This is really the first generation that is overclocking well enough to have a substantial improvement over our CPUs. But still, with a new CPU, you're looking more at raising minimum framerates more than average framerates overall. This was important to me since I'm building for VR. You could definitely hang on to your CPU longer if you wanted to.

With 2x 680, I don't feel you should upgrade to a 980 Ti right now. It may have been worth it when it first came out, but the 9 series is extremely long in the tooth and we're overdue for a new generation. Wait for Pascal.

What's your FPS target? If you're targetting 60fps, I don't think I'd even consider a CPU upgrade. When you're looking at 90+ for VR, or 100+ for high refresh displays, then it's a bit more worthwhile.

Yeah, 60FPS minimum. I have a 1080p G-Sync Display.

publicpwnerer ;)

In my case I will wait the new AND/nVidia GPUs late this year.

I guess it is a better option to you right now... but the new gen GPU and next year or so start building a new system using this GPU.


It's funny, when I first got my 680's, people kept saying how bad SLI was, yet nearly every AAA game was supporting it at the time. In the past year though, the majority of games aren't supporting SLI.

Thanks, that's pretty wise advice. I never tend to build my PC's, I get them built for me. I still use custom parts and min/max the shit out of it, I just never touch the components myself. Your approach is more fiddly, but I think it's the best option.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Corsair Enthusiast 750W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $429.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-30 14:28 EDT-0400


Looks like I'm going with this build.

I should be able to get another $30 off the processor at MicroCetner by buying it with the Motherboard from there at the same time. Also the motherboard is an open box, so $96 and then a $10 rebate. Many of the above parts I'm transferring over from my current setup (i52500k/12gbDDR3/GTX570). So I'm actually shaving about $95 off that cost above

Going to use the 570 until the new cards come out in the next couple months.
 
How much performance gain would an i5 6600k give me over an OCd i5 2500k @4.6ghz?

What GPU do you have and what resolution/refresh rate do you play at?

Chiming back in on this. Yeah, my system is water cooled. Silly question, but how do I monitor my CPU temps in real time?
I like using RealTemp when poking around the OS and Rivatuner Statistics Server in games (RSS comes with MSI Afterburner IIRC, and it lets you enable an overlay while gaming).
 

Klyka

Banned
What GPU do you have and what resolution/refresh rate do you play at?


I like using RealTemp when poking around the OS and Rivatuner Statistics Server in games (RSS comes with MSI Afterburner IIRC, and it lets you enable an overlay while gaming).

970gtx and I play at 1080p/60fps
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Can you get 3770ks at a decent price? In the uk they seem to be as expensive as an i5-6600k so I feel like I might as well go the whole hog and get a 6700k.

I'd probably only consider it if you could get it cheaply used. Otherwise, I don't really see how it would be a worthwhile upgrade.
 

hohoXD123

Member
This is what I have so far. Going to leave the GPU until Pascal.

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£278.99 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler (£67.98 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£111.57 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£99.62 @ More Computers)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For £169.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For £59.00)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£99.98 @ Novatech)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (£49.99 @ Novatech)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC68 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter (£59.68 @ Amazon UK)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse (£51.97 @ PC World Business)
Total: £1047.78
 

OneUh8

Member
Alright, my list of components is done! I have everything except for the case, which I should be receiving Tuesday.

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Black mATX
Motherboard: Asus RoG Maximus VIII Gene mATX
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K
Cooling: Corsair H115i 280mm
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 2x8GB DDR4-3200
SSD: Mushkin Enhanced Reactor 1tb
GPU: Reusing GTX 680. Waiting on Pascal.

I would have went with a Samsung 850 Pro drive, but at nearly half the cost, the Mushkin was too hard to pass up, considering it's pretty well reviewed.

That's going to be a kickass setup. Almost identical to the build I will be doing.
 

ethomaz

Banned
How useful is a motherboard with built-in WiFi & Bluetooth in the PC/Windows world?
I can only talk about my case...

My PC stay near my router so wifi is unnecessary and even if I had it on my mobo I won't use because wired give better speeds/ping.

About the Bluetooth is cool and useful to pair cellphones or others devices but a USB Bluetooth adapter is so cheaper that I guess it is not a deal to pay more to have it on desktop.

To be fair I guess these features are very specifics for Desktop use... that is why most mobo didn't care about it.
 

OkayRene

Member
I can only talk about my case...

My PC stay near my router so wifi is unnecessary and even if I had it on my mobo I won't use because wired give better speeds/ping.

About the Bluetooth is cool and useful to pair cellphones or others devices but a USB Bluetooth adapter is so cheaper that I guess it is not a deal to pay more to have it on desktop.

To be fair I guess these features are very specifics for Desktop use... that is why most mobo didn't care about it.

I used my onboard wifi in my htpc and its just terrible. I would advise against it. If you must use wifi, get a usb adapter.

Ah okay. Deciding between Asus 170-A and Maximus Hero Alpha, extras seem to be high end audio, Bluetooth and WiFi. Guess I'll save the extra and put it towards something else.
 

hohoXD123

Member
Ah okay. Deciding between Asus 170-A and Maximus Hero Alpha, extras seem to be high end audio, Bluetooth and WiFi. Guess I'll save the extra and put it towards something else.

The Z170 Pro Gaming seems to be slightly cheaper than the Z170A (in the UK at least). Apparently comes with better audio and seems to have a slight edge in benchmarks. Prefer the colour scheme of the Z170A though.
 

shanafan

Member
Looking for some advice on an affordable upgrade.

My PC is from 2007. It still runs pretty well, and I mainly use it for web browsing. Programs open up quickly, and nothing wrong with it. I have added a hard drive (1 TB) and a new DVD-ROM since 2007.

Here are my stats:

Intel Core 2 Duo 2.33 GHz
GeForce 8600 GT
3 GB RAM
Windows 10

I have started to get back into playing World of Warcraft. When I boot the game and play it, my PC starts to run loud, almost like a hair dryer. It's not a distraction, but definitely runs loud when playing WoW. When I stop playing, the sound goes away. I run the game settings at the recommended level (fair) so nothing major.

Any tips to reduce the loudness of my system when playing WoW?

Thanks!
 

Thrakier

Member
So running a 2500k still at stable 4.2ghz. But it seems that for vr I need something better, some vive vanes do stutter despite that the performance test is good.

What would be the best upgrade solution?
 

GoldenBuddha

Neo Member
Former PC gamer looking to build a new machine this month. The last 12 years or so, 90% of my gaming has been on consoles. The last time I actually built a computer was in the 486 days, and I could use help on parts and options on a new build. I am looking for something that can play games at the best quality now and also be a bit future-proof. I recently sold my Xbox One because I saw MS is going to allow its exclusives on Windows as well. I'm keeping my PS4, but most of my gaming would be done on this new system. A friend of mine threw together a build on PCPartPicker that he said would be good for a few years at the least. I am ready to pull the trigger on making the purchase(s) money-wise, I'd just like to make sure I am getting the best bang for my buck and won't be regretting moving my gaming focus back to PC.

If anyone could take a look and give some advice, I'd appreciate all input:

Potential Build

*also, would VR be a good investment with a system like the one I linked?
 

Reg

Banned
Haven't been following the pc hardware scene for a few years now, but are ddr3 prices the cheapest they've ever been right now? Looking to upgrade from 1300mhz 16gb.
 
Looking for some advice on an affordable upgrade.

My PC is from 2007. It still runs pretty well, and I mainly use it for web browsing. Programs open up quickly, and nothing wrong with it. I have added a hard drive (1 TB) and a new DVD-ROM since 2007.

Here are my stats:

Intel Core 2 Duo 2.33 GHz
GeForce 8600 GT
3 GB RAM
Windows 10

I have started to get back into playing World of Warcraft. When I boot the game and play it, my PC starts to run loud, almost like a hair dryer. It's not a distraction, but definitely runs loud when playing WoW. When I stop playing, the sound goes away. I run the game settings at the recommended level (fair) so nothing major.

Any tips to reduce the loudness of my system when playing WoW?

Thanks!
Check the CPU cooler for dust, it might be clogged with it. Also the GPU's fan.
 
Any recommendations for a replacement MOBO?

My ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO just died on me and I don't need all it's bells and whistles on the replacement.

Any good MOBO on a budget?
 
So running a 2500k still at stable 4.2ghz. But it seems that for vr I need something better, some vive vanes do stutter despite that the performance test is good.

What would be the best upgrade solution?
Are you speaking from personal experience on the stutter or what you've read. Literally curious
 
What CPU?
i7-4770K

Actually I'd like some help on the matter to see if it is my MOBO that's screwed. Had a cup on water around our desk yesterday and water pretty much splashed everywhere. Roughly 5-10 later my computer shut off by itself. I checked my casing to see if there was any major spills on it but there were none. I tried turning it on again but nothing came up on display. Computer turns on but there's no beep and no display.

I originally thought it was my GPU but I popped it out and popped in my old GTX 470 but it resulted the same. The fans on both my GPU were up and spinning when I tried them both.

Then I noticed that some of my fans weren't turning on. I have 7 fans in my casing and only 3 of them seem to be running when I boot my PC up.

The two fans associated with my Corsair H100i turn on and one of my intake fans (powered through my PSU) on the bottom of my casing turns on as well.

- 1 CPU fan doesn't turn on (Plugged into my MOBO)
- 1 intake fan in the front of my case doesn't turn on (Plugged into my casing)
- 2 fans attached to my casing lid doesn't turn on turn on (Plugged into my MOBO)

The lighting on my Corsair H100 turns on and the little light on my MOBO turns on as well. On my ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO there's a START and RESET button that lights up red. They're always on when power is being fed to my PSU.

I then tried taking out my GPU, plugged an HDMI cable directly from my MOBO to my monitor and it resulted in the same. PC boots up but there's no beep and no display. Same number of fans working.

Any idea what could be the problem? I'm leaning towards the fact that a little of water splashed into the small opening of my case that exposes the rear portion the MOBO. That was the side that was facing the water splash.

Any idea what else I could try to narrow the problem down?
 
i7-4770K

Actually I'd like some help on the matter to see if it is my MOBO that's screwed. Had a cup on water around our desk yesterday and water pretty much splashed everywhere. Roughly 5-10 later my computer shut off by itself. I checked my casing to see if there was any major spills on it but there were none. I tried turning it on again but nothing came up on display. Computer turns on but there's no beep and no display.

I originally thought it was my GPU but I popped it out and popped in my old GTX 470 but it resulted the same. The fans on both my GPU were up and spinning when I tried them both.

Then I noticed that some of my fans weren't turning on. I have 7 fans in my casing and only 3 of them seem to be running when I boot my PC up.

The two fans associated with my Corsair H100i turn on and one of my intake fans on the bottom of my casing turn on as well.

- 1 CPU fan doesn't turn on (Plugged into my MOBO)
- 1 intake fan in the front of my case doesn't turn on (Plugged into my casing)
- 2 fans attached to my casing lid doesn't turn on turn on (Plugged into my MOBO)

The lighting on my Corsair H100 turns on and the little light on my MOBO turns on as well.

I then tried taking out my GPU, plugged an HDMI cable directly from my MOBO to my monitor and it resulted in the same. PC boots up but there's no beep and no display. Same number of fans working.

Any idea what could be the problem? I'm leaning towards the fact that a little of water splashed into the small opening of my case that exposes the rear portion the MOBO. That was the side that was facing the water splash.

Any idea what else I could try to narrow the problem down?
Are any of the diagnostic/error LEDs lit up? (Or maybe that motherboard has a readout with error codes, not sure).
 
Are any of the diagnostic/error LEDs lit up? (Or maybe that motherboard has a readout with error codes, not sure).
I forgot about the LED indicator on the MOBO. It displays a 00 Q-Code which upon some research, is likely the result of a failed PSU, CPU or motherboard.

Is there a way to test if my PSU is the problem? If not then it pretty much narrows it down to my motherboard being fried from the water.

vwTRIlT.jpg
 
I forgot about the LED indicator on the MOBO. It displays a 00 Q-Code which upon some research, is likely the result of a failed PSU, CPU or motherboard.

Is there a way to test if my PSU is the problem? If not then it pretty much narrows it down to my motherboard being fried from the water.

I haven't tried it before, but you coudl try the paper clip test (e.g. http://www.seasonic.ru/tech-support/jump-start/). You could also stop by a local shop and get them to test your PSU, mine had a fancy machine for testing everything at once and they were happy to help.
 
I haven't tried it before, but you coudl try the paper clip test (e.g. http://www.seasonic.ru/tech-support/jump-start/). You could also stop by a local shop and get them to test your PSU, mine had a fancy machine for testing everything at once and they were happy to help.
Thanks. I'll give the paper clip a try tonight.

Any recommendations for a replacement motherboard though? Will probably run out tomorrow to a microcenter and pick a new one up.

CPU is i7-4770K and I'm on 16GB RAM. Haven't OC'd anything but I probably will soon and up my RAM to 32GB down the road.

Leaning towards this one at the moment: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...cm_re=1150_motherboard-_-13-130-779-_-Product
 

shanafan

Member
Check the CPU cooler for dust, it might be clogged with it. Also the GPU's fan.

Thanks for the help. I cleaned out the CPU cooler (it was caked with dust inside), and did some other cleaning.

I put it back together, and the sound improved a little bit. I am glad that I did clean it though, it was dusty.

I think the sound is just attributed to having a 9 year old computer.
 
So I've had my 6600K for almost nine months now. During that time, I've been running it @ 4.4 Ghz with a VCore of 1.3. When I ran Prime95, my maximum temperature was ~60 degrees.

Tonight, I decided to find out just how much higher I could push the clock speed. I've discovered that if I raise the VCore to 1.55 1.355, I can get a stable overclock of 4.5 Ghz (0.1 ghz higher!). However, under Prime95, I'm now seeing max temperatures as high as 82 degrees.

So my question is, is it worth it to stick with the higher overclock? I realize that the real-world difference between 4.4 and 4.5 isn't going to be super noticeable, but now that I know both clock speeds are viable, I can't decide which one I want to use!

Edit: Correct voltage for 4.5 Ghz is 1.355. Stupid typo was stupid!
 

Dereck

Member
Guys, when reformatting a computer completely and reinstalling the OS, should I install the old drivers that apply to the old hardware in the PC, or should I install the most up-to-date drivers that came out later?

I'm having an issue with two PCs where the video drivers are fucking up, like watching a YouTube video, Netflix or Twitch while doing other things, and the computers freeze, seems to be video driver related and I want to make sure I can fix the problem.
 
Guys, when reformatting a computer completely and reinstalling the OS, should I install the old drivers that apply to the old hardware in the PC, or should I install the most up-to-date drivers that came out later?

I'm having an issue with two PCs where the video drivers are fucking up, like watching a YouTube video, Netflix or Twitch while doing other things, and the computers freeze, seems to be video driver related and I want to make sure I can fix the problem.

Latest drivers. You can always roll back to an earlier driver to confirm that it is the actual driver causing issues.
 

Bboy AJ

My dog was murdered by a 3.5mm audio port and I will not rest until the standard is dead

TheExodu5

Banned
So I've had my 6600K for almost nine months now. During that time, I've been running it @ 4.4 Ghz with a VCore of 1.3. When I ran Prime95, my maximum temperature was ~60 degrees.

Tonight, I decided to find out just how much higher I could push the clock speed. I've discovered that if I raise the VCore to 1.55, I can get a stable overclock of 4.5 Ghz (0.1 ghz higher!). However, under Prime95, I'm now seeing max temperatures as high as 82 degrees.

So my question is, is it worth it to stick with the higher overclock. I realize that the real-world difference between 4.4 and 4.5 Ghz isn't going to be super noticeable, but now that I know that both clock speeds are viable, I can't decide which one I want to use!


I'd stick to 4.4GHz. That's a lot of voltage and temperature rise for 2% performance gain.
 
Former PC gamer looking to build a new machine this month. The last 12 years or so, 90% of my gaming has been on consoles. The last time I actually built a computer was in the 486 days, and I could use help on parts and options on a new build. I am looking for something that can play games at the best quality now and also be a bit future-proof. I recently sold my Xbox One because I saw MS is going to allow its exclusives on Windows as well. I'm keeping my PS4, but most of my gaming would be done on this new system. A friend of mine threw together a build on PCPartPicker that he said would be good for a few years at the least. I am ready to pull the trigger on making the purchase(s) money-wise, I'd just like to make sure I am getting the best bang for my buck and won't be regretting moving my gaming focus back to PC.

If anyone could take a look and give some advice, I'd appreciate all input:

Potential Build

*also, would VR be a good investment with a system like the one I linked?

Let's see... You did mention you want it to run things at the best quality and be a bit future proof. :)

CPU and cooler looks fine. (Don't want an ugly tower, step up to a Cryorig H7, and if you don't want a tower at all, H60.)

Within the same brand, the G45 Gaming is just a bit more compared to the currently selected motherboard, and provides more features, up to and including SLI support if you do end up going dual-NVIDIA in the future. Not to mention the looks, if that's your cup of tea. You could also opt for the slightly cheaper PC Mate, which is supposedly better than the Z170 Pro you've chosen right now... pricing oddities aside.

I painted your RAM red. :) Black is fine, too. I believe you should be able to pick what colour you want without affecting the price too much.

The 850 EVO is a very nice SSD, but it might be too much price per GB if you're only looking for great boot and loading times. You probably need a HDD, too - video games are getting too big for comfort for a single HDD. I've downgraded your SSD and added a basic 1TB HDD. Adjust as needed. Wondering what's that SSD? That's what I use in my desktop right now. If you don't need the extended warranty term Samsung offers, it should be fine.

390X or 980 are a bit more future-proof. Even though the 390 is a bit faster than 970, it's still no 980 or 390X in my opinion. Also, at the moment, the 390X will also net you a free game :) The 390 (or 970) are still plenty fine as is, though, especially if you overclock them (the 970 shouldn't break a sweat getting to 980 levels, for example)

For a 1080p monitor, either the 970 or 390 will do it; if you have a higher-resolution monitor, or prefer a bit more time before things stop being tops, a 980 or 390X will work, too. Though definitely, the 970 or 390, in my opinion, is on the verge of overkill at 1080p. I mean, you're already looking at settings usually significantly better than the Xbox One or PS4 are pushing, assuming non-botched ports.

In the end, I've left your video card alone, since either 390X or 980 would push up the budget noticeably. It also goes well with the new motherboard, but do think if you could use a 390X, or shed 100W of power.

Also updated the PSU. Can't help but notice that deal :p

I guess my aim is to make sure the PC you've built be not just powerful, but be also personalized...

You probably only need a DVD drive, if nothing at all.

Do you need the Wi-Fi adapter?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($344.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.33 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A-G45 GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston FURY 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($329.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($16.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($79.99 @ NCIX US)
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So I've had my 6600K for almost nine months now. During that time, I've been running it @ 4.4 Ghz with a VCore of 1.3. When I ran Prime95, my maximum temperature was ~60 degrees.

Tonight, I decided to find out just how much higher I could push the clock speed. I've discovered that if I raise the VCore to 1.55, I can get a stable overclock of 4.5 Ghz (0.1 ghz higher!). However, under Prime95, I'm now seeing max temperatures as high as 82 degrees.

So my question is, is it worth it to stick with the higher overclock? I realize that the real-world difference between 4.4 and 4.5 isn't going to be super noticeable, but now that I know both clock speeds are viable, I can't decide which one I want to use!
You should be able to get to 4.6 and stay below 1.4 V. Or you're just really unlucky I guess.
 

LilJoka

Member
So I've had my 6600K for almost nine months now. During that time, I've been running it @ 4.4 Ghz with a VCore of 1.3. When I ran Prime95, my maximum temperature was ~60 degrees.

Tonight, I decided to find out just how much higher I could push the clock speed. I've discovered that if I raise the VCore to 1.55, I can get a stable overclock of 4.5 Ghz (0.1 ghz higher!). However, under Prime95, I'm now seeing max temperatures as high as 82 degrees.

So my question is, is it worth it to stick with the higher overclock? I realize that the real-world difference between 4.4 and 4.5 isn't going to be super noticeable, but now that I know both clock speeds are viable, I can't decide which one I want to use!

How the heck do you only hit 80c in prime95 at 1.55v? What cooling have you got?
The voltage is also way too high and you are playing the gamble with degredation. Stick with 4.4.

What is the board?
 
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