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Just beat TMNT arcade for first time... any secrets?

I dropped the Turtles PCB into my arcade machine today...

beat it with michelangelo.. and realized, i had never beat this as a kid... after all those quarters and all those times playing it, i never even beat level 2!

thats probably because i'd only have like a couple quarters or at most 2 dollars, and never got past the level 2 boss..

was fun beating the game, and fun playing it for free.. i have a box of PCB's and have never hooked them up outside of today..

think i'll probably convert it permanently into a TMNT machine or MK1 or SF2 machine, but not sure..

anyone know any secrets in this game or anything fun to do? i dont have much of a want to play it through again, evne though it is a fun game and could see myself playing it briefly or if i have a few drinks in me... will be fun to play with another person or two however.
 
unfortunately, i don't know of any secrets for you, but i do have some questions:

i'm interested in getting into collecting old arcade games, but i don't know much about the intricacies of how they work. is it possible to get a cabinet and just swap pcb boards for different games? if so, how do you deal with the different control configurations (if one game uses two buttons, another uses three, and u have a cabinet that has a six-button layout)?

also, would you first need the motherboard of the system that the game runs on? for instance, i would need a cps-2 motherboard for street fighter II and it's upgrades and the a cps-3 motherboard to run street fighter III and it's upgrades? is there anything else i should know? any info would be appreciated.
 
={<SMOKE>}= said:
i'm interested in getting into collecting old arcade games, but i don't know much about the intricacies of how they work. is it possible to get a cabinet and just swap pcb boards for different games? if so, how do you deal with the different control configurations (if one game uses two buttons, another uses three, and u have a cabinet that has a six-button layout)?

It works like this. Up to around 1985, almost every arcade game had its own proprietary wiring harness and control setup, with few exceptions. Some Konami PCBs could be swapped between cabinets, for example, but since the controls differed so greatly it didn't really work that well. In 1985 a single standardized wiring and control setup called JAMMA was created with the goal of increasing the ease of converting old games into new ones. Up to that point you either had to get rid of old cabinets to make room for new ones, or take pains to hack a new game into an old cabinet. Hence all the horrible "Time Pilot in a TRON" types of hack-jobs you still see around sometimes.

Anyway, JAMMA is a standard wiring format that supports 2 players with 3 buttons per player. Any normal JAMMA PCB - namely, 95% of all PCBs from 1985 to now - can be simply plugged into a JAMMA cabinet and will play fine. It's as easy as swapping a SNES cart. Games like Street Fighter 2 aren't true JAMMA - they're a barely-changed version of it called JAMMA+. What that means is that you can plug the PCB into a normal JAMMA cabinet, but you'll also have to hook up a few other wires on top of the standard JAMMA wiring. In the case of Street Fighter 2, you have to plug two "kick harnesses" into the PCB that run to the 4th, 5th, and 6th buttons for each player and enable the extra buttons. The same goes for any other JAMMA game that has more than 3 buttons, more than 2 players, or any other weird additional options.

To put it in simpler terms, any JAMMA PCB will work in any other JAMMA cabinet, though occasional PCBs require a little bit more setup than others. Going in reverse, though - plugging a normal 2 or 3 button JAMMA PCB into a Street Fighter 2 cabinet - works just fine. The 3 kick buttons just won't do anything since the game isn't made to use them.

Oh, and I should add that pre-JAMMA PCBs can be played on JAMMA cabs as well, if you have the soldering skills to wire up a custom harness. It's not really that hard and can actually be kinda fun. :D

also, would you first need the motherboard of the system that the game runs on? for instance, i would need a cps-2 motherboard for street fighter II and it's upgrades and the a cps-3 motherboard to run street fighter III and it's upgrades?

Yeah, that's right. A lot of newer games, though JAMMA, also need the motherboard of their respective systems in order to work. CPS2, CPS3 (but not CPS1 - it's built-in), Taito F3, Neo-Geo, Sega ST-V, and others work that way. All are JAMMA PCBs, but work as motherboard-cart combos. Still, this isn't really true of many, many PCBs. I must have at least 50 PCBs and only a handful of them are carts. Even to this day, quite a few PCBs - possibly even a majority - are dedicated all-in-one boards, not motherboard/cart combos.

think i'll probably convert it permanently into a TMNT machine...

If you have a JAMMA cab, why convert it permanently into anything? Much less a one-play-through game like TMNT that you're already saying you don't want to play anymore? Bad idea.
 

DCharlie

And even i am moderately surprised
"i'm interested in getting into collecting old arcade games,"

first thing you need to be aware of is JAMMA and pre-JAMMA and the whole concepts of harnesses.

Basically, the arcade PCB needs to "communicate" with either your supergun (a machine that enables you to run PCBs via a tv) or your arcade cabinet.

The harness enables this by mapping the signals that you enter from keypresses to the PCB, and the return signals from the PCB for video output/sound etc. (That's put basically and crapply with a blinding ignorance of the nitty gritty by myself).

Now, JAMMA is a standard for these interfaces. If a game is JAMMA , then that means that the connector on the PCB that links to your SGun or arcade machine has a certain, predetermined layout ie: the video syncs are always in the same place, the coin inputs etc... Because of this, superguns/Arcade machines usually support JAMMA by default. That meaning that the harness supplied will plug directly onto the PCB finger board and run with no issues.

However, older games didn't have this standard, so you not only get different sized connectors on a lot of games, but also different Pinouts. The way around this is to buy harnesses that convert from a specific system/PCB (an example would be Spartan X which uses an Irem specific harness) to JAMMA. Another example are games like Hypersports/olympics which require the buttons to be mapped for different inputs.

So the answer to this question :

"but i don't know much about the intricacies of how they work. is it possible to get a cabinet and just swap pcb boards for different games?'

is that as long as you get a JAMMA arcade machine/supergun then you should be able to swap games in and out. Only non-JAMMA games will not run (you require the aforementioned specific harness).

"if so, how do you deal with the different control configurations (if one game uses two buttons, another uses three, and u have a cabinet that has a six-button layout)? "

You don't really have to worry about it. But note for streetfighter CP2 games (6 buttons) that you need to have a "kick harness" built and soldered onto the JAMMA harness in order to enable the extra 2 buttons (JAMMA supports a max of 4 buttons).

"also, would you first need the motherboard of the system that the game runs on?"

Depends. Some games are stand alone PCBs, others are carts much like a console (MVS, CP2, ST-V, NOVA, Taito f2/f3). So for the cart based systems, you need the motherboard.

" for instance, i would need a cps-2 motherboard for street fighter II and it's upgrades and the a cps-3 motherboard to run street fighter III and it's upgrades?"

You'd need - a kick harness (to add the two missing kick buttons) the CP2 (motherboard) A-board, and some sort of Streetfighter (sub board) B-board.
" is there anything else i should know? any info would be appreciated."

CP2 B-boards are fitted with a battery. There is something called "CP2 suicide" , you REALLY want to get CP2 boards with suicide disabled. Look it up on the web, basic issue is if the battery goes dead, the board will "commit suicide" and will be inoperable (apparently - not sure of the details to be honest!)
 

DCharlie

And even i am moderately surprised
lol - whilst faffing trying to write a reply, good ol' Bobbyc has given a much better take on it! :)
 
DCharlie said:
lol - whilst faffing trying to write a reply, good ol' Bobbyc has given a much better take on it! :)

And I was just thinking how your reply was much better than mine! Well, hopefully between the two of us we covered it well enough for him.

One thing I forgot to mention, though, is monitor resolution issues. Some (pretty uncommon) PCBs run in a higher resolution than the standard cabinet monitor, and will only run on a high res monitor. Some of the newer Japanese cabs have auto-switching monitors which detect the resolution of the PCB being played and automatically adjust to them. It's not really something you have to worry about, but every once in a great while you might find out, sadly, that a game you were hoping to buy is high-res and won't play in your cabinet. Some examples include Virtua Fighter 3, most if not all NAOMI games, and assorted classics like 720, NARC, APB, Toobin', and Bonanza Bros.
 

DCharlie

And even i am moderately surprised
"One thing I forgot to mention, though, is monitor resolution issues. Some (pretty uncommon) PCBs run in a higher resolution than the standard cabinet monitor, and will only run on a high res monitor. Some of the newer Japanese cabs have auto-switching monitors which detect the resolution of the PCB being played and automatically adjust to them. It's not really something you have to worry about, but every once in a great while you might find out, sadly, that a game you were hoping to buy is high-res and won't play in your cabinet. Some examples include Virtua Fighter 3, most if not all NAOMI games, and assorted classics like 720, NARC, APB, Toobin', and Bonanza Bros."

However, if you get an Astrocity - you can switch the res. But the connector to do this is in a NEAR LETHAL position - very close to the monitor. :)
 
hey, thanks for all the info guys, i really appreciate it. are there any good websites dedicated to this stuff that you know of off-hand?
 
yah my dad does the wiring stuff..

i bought a "pit fighter" machine a long time ago for cheap, and it had pit fighter in it obviously, with 3 controllers, 3 buttons a piece..

when i dropped turtles in, player #1 and #2 worked, only using two buttons (jump and attack) and coin doors #1+#2 went to player 1, and 3+4 wen tto player 2..

so right now, until i specialize the control panel, it will be a 2 player game.
 
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