NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread

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Moofers said:
Soul Calibur V stick from HORI just announced:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.274303852612954.64942.157579717618702&type=3

316874_274303905946282_157579717618702_793330_1906079702_n.jpg

WTF is up with giant black square in the top right? That better be not only functional, but compelling.
And hopefully while they were adding USB ports to the case for headset and keyboard, they remembered to make the main connection cable detachable.

That could get me to trade up from my HRAP3-SA.
 
j^aws said:
Dear stick manufacturers,

Is it too much to ask for a stick/ button layout, where the distance betweeen the stick and inner buttons isn't so close? Please make this gap larger by utilising the vast ocean of space available to the left of the stick. I hate it when my fingers collide, and this layout is auto-fail.

Regards,
j^aws

Thank you Madcatz and Hori - eyeballing your latest Soul Calibur sticks suggests that, at least, there's an increased gap.

Apparently, Razer still needs 3 trillion beta testers to figure this out...
 
Any suggestions for alleviating the issue where when I try to let my stick return to neutral, it ends up registering the opposite direction? Kind of annoying and makes playing horribly difficult. I'm bad enough as it is, I don't need a handicap. =P
 
grap3fruitman said:
Any suggestions for alleviating the issue where when I try to let my stick return to neutral, it ends up registering the opposite direction? Kind of annoying and makes playing horribly difficult. I'm bad enough as it is, I don't need a handicap. =P

You mean letting Left go and it hitting Right? In this case, you'd need a tighter spring.
 
Can't say I'm digging either of the new Hori sticks. Looks fairly bland and boxy. My eye is on the Eightarcs. I like the functionality and having a slight slope

Also, I know some people love the felt bottom idea. If you got a TE you can pick up some foam or felt sticky sheets as Michael's crafts for maybe two bucks. I use the foam ones on my Rock Band drums for silencing. The adhesive is sticky enough but doesn't damage surfaces. Not sure how long it'll last on the stick bottom though. Should have a similar effect to help w/ lap sliding if it's really a problem. Just an idea.

I hope MadCatz shows some more TE/Viewlix layouts soon, or some new stuff, or I'm about to defect to Eightarc. :/ I like their stuff shown.

One thing I really wish companies would go to is:
LB RB
LT RT
instead of:
RB LB
RT LT

The first option makes more sense universally. I know it's not the default layout for SFIV, but having the Rs on the left is awkward if used for other games or menus that have fixed L/R buttons for navigation. For example, I have used sticks for pinball games, and they don't let you swap L/R. I know it's not the default for SFIV and others, but all fighters have button configs and people do buttons checks at tournaments anyway. I opened my TEs to swap the wiring so it made sense in those games, but it voided the warranty.
 
QOTFC.jpg

Starting from the top: Round 1 TE 360 ver., SC2 Hori Stick modded with sanwa buttons/stick, Green Goblin, Namco stick (still need to put a PCB in there), HRAP2 modded with sanwa buttons/stick, HRAP1 (stock parts)
 
The Take Out Bandit said:
Here's one solution.

I've read about doubling springs with an LS-32 spring or with the Everbilt 84 pc Spring Assortment Kit (471 864) from Home Depot.

You can also use a spring for an LS-56 or (apparently) LS40 and replace the spring rather than doubling it. Honestly, for the price and ease of finding it, usually the Home Depot kit would be best because you can find one that you like.
 
hikarutilmitt said:
You can also use a spring for an LS-56 or (apparently) LS40 and replace the spring rather than doubling it. Honestly, for the price and ease of finding it, usually the Home Depot kit would be best because you can find one that you like.
Home Depot kit? Care to clarify?
 
Alright design-critique-gaf, have at you!

O8TBv.jpg


This is the original design idea I had when deciding how to mod my Tatsucap Wii stick. I was dismayed to find that there was no such thing as white hole plugs back then, so I settled on black plugs and black pushbuttons for A and R (#5 and #6 respectively). The Idea was "hiding in plain sight." The four colored buttons are the primary set, and the two spare buttons are there in case of Street Fighter. I grew to love the old look, and as soon as I popped in my new white plugs and Sanwas it immediately felt wrong. So what do you guys think? Is this cool, or should I switch back? Or mix-n-match? Black 5+6 and white plugs?

PS: I like the new Hori case design. Looks industrial.
 
Uh, guys, the Back and Start buttons of my Blazblue TE just randomly stopped working today D:

What do I do? Should I open it and see if somehow they disconnected? Sending it back for repair is not really an option...
 
SolarKnight said:
Uh, guys, the Back and Start buttons of my Blazblue TE just randomly stopped working today D:

What do I do? Should I open it and see if somehow they disconnected? Sending it back for repair is not really an option...
Does the Blazblue TE have the newer PCB that locks Start and Select when you have the Home button lock switch on?
 
...I didn't know it locked those buttons, I wonder who moved the switch to "locked" >_> *sigh* That's what happens when you lend your stick to everyone during a meeting because you're 1 of the only 2 guys with an arcade stick.

Thanks! Good thing I asked here.
 
SolarKnight said:
...I didn't know it locked those buttons, I wonder who moved the switch to "locked" >_> *sigh* That's what happens when you lend your stick to everyone during a meeting because you're 1 of the only 2 guys with an arcade stick.

Thanks! Good thing I asked here.

Sometimes you hit something and it moves to locked. For tourney play it's real important you can lock those buttons out, since those buttons being hit can get you DQed.
 
Maybe a nitpick, but for MvC3 training mode having start and select far apart is a huge pain. I use start/select for resetting position a ton. That's a deal breaker on sticks like the Hori UMvC3 one. I like start/select close together and away from the buttons, but not too far away. TEs are fine, but I think upper right face is the best.
 
I havent used a stick since PS1 and the stick looked like a PS1 lmao, I may post pics later but anyone have a recommendation I would prefer use across all platforms.


>$200


Edit: Went looking in old boxes of games

AeKCRQNCEAAhjWz.jpg
 
Nick_GTL said:
I havent used a stick since PS1 and the stick looked like a PS1 lmao, I may post pics later but anyone have a recommendation I would prefer use across all platforms.


>$200
For use with all consoles, start with a 360 Madcatz TE and add a Multiconsole Cthulhu from Toodles.

From there you can mode cables to work with other systems, and the most elegant solution is an RJ-45 setup with detachable cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.ph...e-cthulhu-arcade-stick-tutorial-ver-2.100475/
 
Nick_GTL said:
Edit: Went looking in old boxes of games

http://p.twimg.com/AeKCRQNCEAAhjWz.jpg
Haha, I have that stick too! It has a Seimitsu of some sort for the lever, really short throw... pretty fun for SHMUPs but not so good for fighting games. Shame that the buttons are some terrible membrane-based affair, I like the case/lightness of the thing.

But yeah, I agree with _dementia's suggestion. Best way to get a multiconsole stick is a 360 TE + MC Cthulhu.
 
Nick_GTL said:
I havent used a stick since PS1 and the stick looked like a PS1 lmao, I may post pics later but anyone have a recommendation I would prefer use across all platforms.


>$200
If by "all platforms" you mean PS3/360/PC, see if you can find a Qanba 3-in-1 or an Eightarc Fusion.
 
Nick_GTL said:
I havent used a stick since PS1 and the stick looked like a PS1 lmao, I may post pics later but anyone have a recommendation I would prefer use across all platforms.

QanBa Q4RAF or Eightarc Fusion. They're essentially the same thing and both are awesome, solid sticks. I have a Q4RAF.
 
aggro crag said:
I wired this up with two PS1 PCBs last night. Does anyone know where I can find replacement movelist inserts? Right now I have one for Virtua Fighter 2, but rather get one for Alpha 2 or CvS2.
4yNWR.jpg
Are the stock HSS-0130 buttons regular Seimitsu PS-14Ks or are they clone knockoff parts? I see you've swapped them for Sanwa, but I have heard conflicting stories about the stock parts.
 
bodyboarder said:
Is the tekken 6 wireless stick anygood?
Lots of people like it, but the stock parts are mediocre and it takes a lot of effort to mod. Go for it if you have the patience and Dremel necessary to upgrade your parts.
 
Orayn said:
Lots of people like it, but the stock parts are mediocre and it takes a lot of effort to mod. Go for it if you have the patience and Dremel necessary to upgrade your parts.

Thanks. It will just be as a spare stick anyway, so providing its not total rubbish it will be fine.
 
_dementia said:
Are the stock HSS-0130 buttons regular Seimitsu PS-14Ks or are they clone knockoff parts? I see you've swapped them for Sanwa, but I have heard conflicting stories about the stock parts.
I bought it from someone that already swapped out all the parts for Seimitsu parts. So, I'm not really sure about the stock parts.
 
Have any Canadians ordered from the Canadian MadCatz store? If so, how long did it take for your order to be shipped out? I ordered an SFxT stick from the Canada Cup sale and it's still in progress. =/
 
DSC02210.jpg


My DIY Gief stick!

It took waaaay too long because I lost access to drill press, but I finally found the time to get shit done.

No close ups because you can find 100001 things wrong with it because of my workmanship (if you have OCD don't
look at the four corner screws or the spot near gief's nose. I totally misdrilled hardcore lolol
). BUT IT WORKS!

Also, I don't main gief anymore, but my red/black dudley matches <3
 
DasRaven said:
WTF is up with giant black square in the top right? That better be not only functional, but compelling.
And hopefully while they were adding USB ports to the case for headset and keyboard, they remembered to make the main connection cable detachable.

That could get me to trade up from my HRAP3-SA.

Answering my own question here, Jaxel over at 8wayrun.com has confirmed with Hori that the giant black square is a flip cover for the start button so that it cannot be accidentally struck during play.

That is functional, but certainly not compelling. In fact, it is pretty dumb to not just put them on the front edge or side of the stick and instead drop them squarely in the art space.

I'm out on this one.
 
GhostRidah said:
Whats the deal with new sticks being so much closer to the buttons, people with man hands play stick to!
Nah, they're just following venerable Japanese arcade layouts. The Mad Catz Soul Calibur V TE uses one with a bigger gap, though.
 
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