Are they and the stick easy to replace without soldering?
I've read a few reviews where the stick has dead zones?
NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread
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I've read a few reviews where the stick has dead zones?
Do it anyway. YesBoss! hasn't posted the pics yet, so as far as I'm concerned, there's still time.
You only need a screwdriver to open the case and change the joystick. The buttons easily pop out when you squeeze the 2 tabs on the sides.
So I decided to heed some of the warnings about the HRAP V3 label fading or peeling and I ordered a custom plexi and art (actually I think it's Lexan, and there isn't really any art on my print either). Since I liked the black and white look of the V3, I decided to keep it minimal and simply changed the location of the logo, while keeping everything else black. I think the results are pretty nice!
Ah, awesome. I'm gonna order a plexi/lexan top for my VX-SA once I've got artwork done.
Did you go for the slim or regular thickness? I'm kinda unsure what to buy. I kinda want a slim, as I'm afraid that the I will feel uncomfortable resting my hand on the edges of the regular sized one. On the other hand, I really love the sturdy feel of thicker plexi tops.
sixteen-bit
Member
You'd be a traitor, but at least you'll have legit competition.
SFxTK is not moe enough for triple-GAF
I got the slim, but I'd probably get the regular one if I had to buy again. The slim isn't completely flush with the surface, you can feel it if you run your fingertip along the edge, but you don't really notice it while playing because I don't think the palms make contact with it since they kind of sit against that wrist bevel that the V3/VX have. The slim is kinda flimsy but I still think it looks and performs well.
StarCreator
Member
Square gate is best gate.
You later clarified it was the SE, but is it the PS3 or 360 version? The 360 version is worth more.
As said above though, if you can get a Brawl stick, that would run you a lot less money even after the expense of buying your own parts. Swapping parts is just a matter of being able to use a screwdriver and plugging in the cable.
The BrawlStick and TvC FightStick actually use much nicer Sanwa clones than the original series of SFIV FightSticks.
No soldering at all, just a Philips screwdriver.
Not sure about the dead zones... The throw and engage distances are supposed to be pretty close to a Sanwa JLF.
I don't really think it's a good deal to be honest. I'm coming from the fact I just got an HRAP EX-SE for 90 and my TE was 95$ new.
JeTmAn81
Member
I just paid $90 shipped for a used Round 1 TE with new buttons (at least on the main six), and that seemed like a pretty good deal to me. TE's are going for minimum $130 new these days.
Genesis Knight
Member
It's a 360 version. I think I need it to be a 360 version to use it on multiple (non-USB consoles) with a TE Kitty.
It just occurred to me that I already have PS2->DC, PS2->Saturn, and PS2->Xbox adapters. What's a good stick that either comes with quality buttons or is easily modifiable for PS2? Some sort of Hori stick?
StarCreator
Member
Real Arcade Pro 1 and 2. Not one with game-specific artwork, those are different and often not as moddable.
Genesis Knight
Member
Ok, thanks, I'll look into those.
Another thing that's tripping me up is the Happ vs. Sanwa/Seimitsu issue. The arcade games I've always played have been stuff like Neo-Geo cabinets with concave 'clicky' buttons. Those are Happ buttons, from what I can tell. But do Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons not have that 'click'? A really basic question, I know, but I haven't found anything in the newbie guides that specifically addresses this.
$130? Try $150.
The reason why I ended up going with a HRAP instead of a TE for my new stick is because it's the only high-end stick I could find for $120 or cheaper brand new. I didn't want to take the risk of buying a used stick, and the MSRP for MadCatz's sticks just keeps getting higher.
Ok, I think I'm gonna cave in and grab myself some real stick. What's the difference between the different MadCatz licensed sticks, aside from aesthetics?
Currently I'm looking at these:
http://store.gameshark.net/SoulCalibur_V_Arcade_FightStick_SOUL_Edition_for_PlayStation3/5169/326
http://store.gameshark.net/Street_F...ightStick_PRO_Cross_for_PlayStation3/5188/328
http://store.gameshark.net/Marvel_V...Tournament_Edition_for_PlayStation_3/4935/299
Any reason they are better/worse than let's say this one:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006TC56V6/
?
I'm a complete scrub when it comes to sticks, so I rely on you GAF!
Also, any advice on where to grab one cheap in the UK?
Currently I'm looking at these:
http://store.gameshark.net/SoulCalibur_V_Arcade_FightStick_SOUL_Edition_for_PlayStation3/5169/326
http://store.gameshark.net/Street_F...ightStick_PRO_Cross_for_PlayStation3/5188/328
http://store.gameshark.net/Marvel_V...Tournament_Edition_for_PlayStation_3/4935/299
Any reason they are better/worse than let's say this one:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006TC56V6/
?
I'm a complete scrub when it comes to sticks, so I rely on you GAF!
Also, any advice on where to grab one cheap in the UK?
infinityBCRT
Member
If you are a newcomer I almost think you won't appreciate the difference between a MadCatz SE and TE stick. At least thats how it is for me. I have a MadCatz WWE All-Star BrawlStick and an MadCatz MvC2 TE stick and they feel pretty much the same to me so far.
StarCreator
Member
No, there's no click on basic Sanwa/Seimitsu 30mm buttons. Sanwa buttons are super-sensitive (blowing air on them is enough to trigger them) and provide almost no tactile feedback whatsoever. Seimitsu buttons require a little force (but still not nearly as much as a clicky microswitch would need) and there's a characteristic feel to the button being pushed, though it's nowhere near a click.
Genesis Knight
Member
Damn, that's important to know. So basically the number-one feature I want in a stick (clicky buttons) isn't going to be in 99% of the sticks out there. I think that limits me to the Street Fighter Anniversary controller, lol. From what I've read, Happ parts don't fit into most sticks without serious effort.
narcosis219
Member
Yes, there is ZERO feedback as to when you hit the trigger for the switch.
Most of the time you're playing these games, you're going to be bottoming out on the button anyway, so you'll just thud to the bottom of the button, which I guess is tactile feedback. It can be an issue if you're used to pressing with just enough force on the buttons, but I think it'll be better for you in the long run if you just concentrate on pressing down so your brain doesn't need to spend time processing feedback from your finger.
These buttons trigger fairly close to the "top" of the button (i think if you depress it 20% down, it will trigger. For me, it kind of helps with my slower reaction time because it'll pick up my button press quicker.
StarCreator
Member
If you want my personal opinion on the matter, there's a reason the entire market shifted to the Japanese style - the heavy, hard to actuate Happ style controls can really hinder players in reaction time, forces unnecessary effort to do basic actions, and encourages poor habits that are really hard to break once set. Stiff, clicky controls have their place in simpler platformers or music games where the feedback could be considered part of the game, but in competitive fighting games it could very much be a disadvantage.
I wouldn't write off the Japanese style entirely, and would encourage at least giving it a shot to see how you like it. If you're really used to Happ style controls and want to ease into Japanese style, going full Seimitsu would probably be less of a shock than going full Sanwa.
Take a look at what I posted for lsslave on the last page:
Granted, those are US prices, and I'm not sure which UK stores have the BrawlStick for cheap.
I'm pretty sure the MadCatz SCV stick and the Hori SCV stick are of very similar quality (ie quite good).
Genesis Knight
Member
Huh. So I own the HSS-0136 Virtua Stick and I always thought it must have crappy buttons because they don't click. I guess I was wrong - they're supposed to be that way.
sixteen-bit
Member
I can attest to the HSS-0136's crappy buttons. Lever is great on the first run of them though. Dat LS-56.
StarCreator
Member
I'm actually curious, how different are the Seimitsu LS-56 and the LS-32? I've only ever used the LS-32.
As for the stick, yeah, research seems to indicate the stock buttons on the HSS-0136 aren't great. Get thee some PS-14 buttons in there and we've got something to work with.
As for the stick, yeah, research seems to indicate the stock buttons on the HSS-0136 aren't great. Get thee some PS-14 buttons in there and we've got something to work with.
Genesis Knight
Member
But on a very basic level they 'feel' like real parts, yes?
@StarCreator - I was actually thinking I'd try to desolder the stock buttons and put in some new ones. I'll try it with the Seimitsu PS-14s. Although I'll need to dremel out the holes to 30mm (the stick comes with non-standard 29mm buttons). Hopefully I can do it without damaging the artwork badly. Mine is the Seimitsu stick so I can just leave the lever in place.
Huh. So I own the HSS-0136 Virtua Stick and I always thought it must have crappy buttons because they don't click. I guess I was wrong - they're supposed to be that way.
Not to turn this into a East/West thing, but I've always hated American arcade parts. So much so that I considered the notion of arcade stick controllers with disdain as a youth. I was a hardcore pad supporter, but one day I got a cheapo Hori and fell instantly in love. I got a nice collection going now. Unfortunately, this means I missed on cool stuff like that Virtua Stick and the Playstation RAP's.
sixteen-bit
Member
They feel a little like Seimitsu buttons, but they're smaller than the 30mm standard and aren't as responsive.
Genesis Knight
Member
That's funny, because I have fuzzy feelings associated to the tactile 'click' of Neo-Geo cabinet buttons. So much Metal Slug as a kid!
BTW, does it matter which type of PS-14 I get? I'm assuming snap-in but there's also a screw in type and such.
I would suggest the snap-ins if you're going to be dremeling out the holes in a 29mm stick -- the screw-ins are easier to work with, but the nuts on the bottom can make installing them in tight arrangements difficult (or impossible).
StarCreator
Member
There actually can be quite a difference between bleh cheapo clone buttons you'll find on the lower consumer end and the arcade standard buttons, but it's a lot more subtle than click or no click. It's really hard to explain in words, but Sanwa buttons have this sort of silky smooth feel that I've never experienced otherwise. Seimitsus don't really go down as smooth, but it doesn't necessarily feel cheap and it lets you get a feel for how much pressure is actually needed to actuate the button. The knockoffs tend to feel strangely mushy or just provide weird resistance.
Might want to look into a guide to see if anyone else has modded the HSS-0136. Depending on how close the stick is to arcade standards, you might have to do some shaving of the button holes. Also, there's something really important to mention about Seimitsu buttons that I probably should have mentioned before:
- PS-14 screw-in buttons: Looks like a standard Japanese button with a convex surface. Surface area of the button is a little smaller than the equivalent Sanwa, with a slightly thicker bezel. It's in style for the button and the bezel to be different colors. Also come in transparent varieties, where you can optionally add lights or insert your own artwork.
- PS-14 snap-in buttons: Look wider than the standard Japanese button, and have a completely flat surface. These are the buttons in the Hori RAP EX-SE. They're rather unique as far as buttons go and have slightly different characteristics than their screw-in counterparts. The transparent version of these buttons are harder to find - for good reason, I'm told.
- PS-15 snap-in buttons: These are similar to PS-14 screw-ins in terms of outer characteristics, but are much more shallow. I had to use these once in a stick that didn't have enough clearance to fit a PS-14.
Also, you've probably figured this part out already, but you want to go for 30mm buttons, not 24mm.
Alright, that's a shame. :<
Both of my hands rest on the edge of the top panel. But since the regular one sounds like it should be sturdier and none of them sit flush to the case either way, I'm probably gonna go with the regular one.
Thanks for the impressions!
Didn't realize Seimitsu had design differences between their screw-in and snap-in for the 30mm size. That's what I get for assuming that they paralleled Sanwa's line too much, I suppose. Only Seimitsu buttons I've got right now are 24mm screw-ins, which I'm using for start/select/home in my cheapo mess of a custom Hitbox. Maybe I should grab some 30mm Seis to see what they're like.
Genesis Knight
Member
Yeah, there's a few things out there on the HSS-0136, so I know for sure that the buttons are 29mm and I'll need to bore out the holes to fit a 30mm button. Thanks for the summary of the Seimitsu buttons. In the case of the HSS-0136, the buttons are soldered onto a PCB so the replacements will have to be an exact match height-wise.
I don't really have a preference for Seimitsu over Sanwa, though, and I see one link where a guy said he was going to mod it with Sanwa OBSF-30s. I guess I might try those, as you and others seem to prefer Sanwa over Seimitsu.
StarCreator
Member
I'm fully in the Seimitsu camp, actually... I believe I've mentioned in this thread all my main sticks are full-Seimitsu. This is partly due to laziness from not changing my play style; I tend to rest my fingers on the button surface and on Sanwa buttons this is enough to trigger them accidentally. It's pretty safe to say I have the minority opinion though... though I'm sure a lot of people who swear by Sanwa have never actually touched a Seimitsu button (case in point two posts above this one!).
On the PCB, it would be better to solder wires into the PCB then connect the wires to the buttons, rather than trying to emulate the original PCB-mounted button setup. It'll make swapping out buttons a whole lot easier if you have to do it down the line, and it should be a little more durable as the force of your button presses aren't being directly passed to the PCB. This also can be potentially less work if the PCB is common ground, in which case you can just run a single wire chain connecting all the buttons together for the ground and only have to run single wires for the signal, rather than having to run two wires for each button.
Thanks a lot BiggNife and infinityBCRT, I guess I'm going to stay with my Fighting Stick 3 for now, until I improve enough to warrant spending ~130$ (and I'd really hate it if I wasn't able to feel the difference because i know I don't really *need* a pro stick just yet)
Prototype-03
Member
mr stroke
Member
There are! They are underneath the stock art panel... which is some kind of thick foam thing. You peel it off, revealing the metal plate inside of a very shallow indent to which the new art and plexi fit.
Not my pic:
Just got this stick in the mail(360) and am looking into that same plexi. Was it hard to peel off that sticker?
I want the look of yours but don't want to mess up pealing that sticker and be out $120
If you unscrew the back and open it up, I'm pretty sure that voids the warranty. I think Markman has said as such in this thread before.
Yeah, but how do they know?
I see one sticker on the outside that's already broken. But it would be crazy to rely on one sticker that's exposed to the elements.
StarCreator
Member
If that's broken, the warranty's already done for. The retail packaging of the stick makes breaking that sticker impossible without having unsealed the box first. If the packaging was really damaged to the point of making this not true, the store should have returned it to MadCatz unsold.
I'd test the stick out and if something isn't working, to try and get a refund/exchange for it. You should still be covered by your store's return policy for defective items.
See some other people with broken stickers
http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9366564
Also, the sticker only says "unless qualified to do so, never remove covers." Doesn't say removing the sticker voids warranty. And the sticker is ugly for OCD people since it stands out on the side.
I'm ok with owning something seemingly used as such a low cost if it works. But if it messes up within 90 days I want warranty coverage since it was sold as new.
I need to test it first and foremost, but just looking ahead.
http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9366564
What I'm saying is it's not impossible to break the sticker after opening the box and using it for a month or so.
Also, the sticker only says "unless qualified to do so, never remove covers." Doesn't say removing the sticker voids warranty. And the sticker is ugly for OCD people since it stands out on the side.
It's the only stick left in town. I got a 10% discount off the 30$ since the box was damaged.
I'm ok with owning something seemingly used as such a low cost if it works. But if it messes up within 90 days I want warranty coverage since it was sold as new.
I need to test it first and foremost, but just looking ahead.
Why does it matter if you mess up peeling off the sticker? It's adhered pretty well, but comes off easily with some force. If you fuck up, just peel off the other parts. It doesn't matter if you tear the sticker because once you've taken it off you can't put it back on again, it'd be way too hard to manage. Either way you can't really screw up, you just take it off.
MarkMan
loves Arcade Sticks
We're pretty good with supporting our products/customers.
We can tell if you messed around with the inside, the sticker is just there as a reminder.
Hitting diagonals on the WWE BrawlStick is very hard for me.
I'm on a market for a stick to mod it with. Gonna read through the thread.
Haha, the colored hot glue?
I voided my warranty because the balltop kept unscrewing itself and driving me crazy and the whole stick kept spinning as I tried to tighten. Using a flat head on the other end to keep it still so i could tighten seems to have worked so far.
I'm on a market for a stick to mod it with. Gonna read through the thread.
Haha, the colored hot glue?
I voided my warranty because the balltop kept unscrewing itself and driving me crazy and the whole stick kept spinning as I tried to tighten. Using a flat head on the other end to keep it still so i could tighten seems to have worked so far.
Where from? focusattack.com is sold out.
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