NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
dfyb said:
man, now i wish the 360 TE was still available for pre-order. i could store the 360 cord in the cord compartment, and the cthulu cord is already neatly removable -- it would be so convenient.
Wouldnt it?!
 
I wonder how hard it would be to buy a PS3 TE and a 360 Fightstick and combine them? It looks like a Cthulhu board is about the same price as the whole 360 stick, and I already have PS3 TE sticks on order.
 
Chorazin said:
I wonder how hard it would be to buy a PS3 TE and a 360 Fightstick and combine them? It looks like a Cthulhu board is about the same price as the whole 360 stick, and I already have PS3 TE sticks on order.
cthulu already functions as a PS3/PC PCB
 
Chorazin said:
I wonder how hard it would be to buy a PS3 TE and a 360 Fightstick and combine them? It looks like a Cthulhu board is about the same price as the whole 360 stick, and I already have PS3 TE sticks on order.

You want to get a 360 TE and a chthulhu board. Thats the easiest way to mod. The other way i going to be a huge pain in the ass.
 
MThanded said:
You want to get a 360 TE and a chthulhu board. Thats the easiest way to mod. The other way i going to be a huge pain in the ass.

Well, since I've made the choice to go PS3 for all multi-plat games, I ordered the PS3 TE stick. And of course, now their are no 360 sticks around when I considered doing the mod.
 
Chorazin said:
Well, since I've made the choice to go PS3 for all multi-plat games, I ordered the PS3 TE stick. And of course, now their are no 360 sticks around when I considered doing the mod.
I was going to get a ps3 stick at the time too. I ended up getting a virtua stick high grade for 100 dollars. So, i might end up not modding the stick.
 
akuma001 said:
why would it be harder to go the other way?
360 + cthulu (PS3/PC) -> potentially no soldering because the stick already has wires coming off the 360 PCB
PS3 + 360 -> pad hacking a 360 PCB = soldering

if microsoft used HID (like PC/PS3) instead of their proprietary XID crap, the cthulu would likely be able to support all 3 without the need for modification.
 
dfyb said:
360 + cthulu (PS3/PC) -> potentially no soldering because the stick already has wires coming off the 360 PCB
PS3 + 360 -> pad hacking a 360 PCB = soldering

if microsoft used HID (like PC/PS3) instead of their proprietary XID crap, the cthulu would likely be able to support all 3 without the need for modification.


basically an assembled cthulhu is an already padhacked pcb so what's the difference from buying an already prewired common ground 360 pcb from someone on srk and adding your own barrier strips for solderless connecting to the ps3 version fight sticks?
 
akuma001 said:
basically an assembled cthulhu is an already padhacked pcb so what's the difference from buying an already prewired common ground 360 pcb from someone on srk and adding your own barrier strips for solderless connecting to the ps3 version fight sticks?
Think of how many people just understood what you said. That's the difference.
 
akuma001 said:
basically an assembled cthulhu is an already padhacked pcb so what's the difference from buying an already prewired common ground 360 pcb from someone on srk and adding your own barrier strips for solderless connecting to the ps3 version fight sticks?
i guess you could buy a pre-wired 360 PCB, yeah - should be pretty much the same idea. i'm not sure how those are priced, nor am i sure about their quality. i wouldn't call the cthulu a padhacked PCB, but in the context of modding sticks in this way, yeah they serve similar purposes.
 
ashism said:
Think of how many people just understood what you said. That's the difference.

could you understand their reasoning why the way they said it was easier?

i said buy a prehacked 360 pcb and use barrier strips is the 360 equivalent of a pre-assembled cthulhu board.
 
whoo! after like over 2 months I finally finished my custom:

33a4cwp.jpg


2gybvk8.jpg


2zqdmhc.jpg


bipi6h.jpg


I'm not a handyman by any means btw... I'm a nerd.

so I'm not really happy with the build of the stick, there's a lot of rough edges and imprecisions all over the place.

but that aside, it works well. The overall size and weight are comfortable, but the buttons are a little too close to the joystick.
 
_dementia said:
How difficult is it soldering that MadCatz PCB? Did you have much experience before?
I do not have a lot of experience soldering, it's jus something I kinda kno how to do.

I had to teach myself when I wanted to make my 1st joystick...

the points on the PCB are very small, so only burn a very little bit of solder onto the contacts.

but also, I use real thin wire so it's a lot easier to put something small onto something else that's small.

The wires from the joystick were a lot harder to solder on despite the fact that the directional contacts on the PCB are way bigger
 
ashism said:
First for everything. Theres a soderless version of the board too. The most work you gotta do is stripping wires and hooking them up. Oh and opening the case. Should be easy enough for any adult to handle.

How hard would it be for someone w/ no soldering experience to put a Cthulhu into a HRAP2? Just got a HRAP2:SA and I'm thinking it would be more beneficial to put a Cthulhu in it instead of having to get a ps2>ps3 adapter and a XFPS Sniper 3.0.
 
AdawgDaFAB said:
How hard would it be for someone w/ no soldering experience to put a Cthulhu into a HRAP2? Just got a HRAP2:SA and I'm thinking it would be more beneficial to put a Cthulhu in it instead of having to get a ps2>ps3 adapter and a XFPS Sniper 3.0.

it's not a cthulhu board but this is what soldering points on the hrap2sa pcb looks like wired up for dual console. the thing about wiring it like this is being able to arrange your wiring so you can close up the plastic cover that houses the turbo switches.

some things to keep in mind are you will have to make some modifications to the case for the usb wire to come out and some mods to pcb cover for it to close with the wiring coming out of it.

PICT0845.jpg


sorry but i don't have an actual write up of how this can be done or any alternative to how you can dual mod it since the stick is back with its owner. anyways, the pic should be an indicator of how hard/easy it will be for you.
 
Inside wiring of regular SF4 FightStick (360)....

3210768236_2662019c51_b.jpg



---

You don't know how many PMs/msgs I get about this -_-
 
CcrooK said:
Wow, the stick area like...exploded! :lol

Thank SF4 for that. Before playing with the MadCatz sticks at CES, I had no real interest in using one with the game. Now, I can't wait to get to modding my own soon.

MarkMan, were you in the suite at CES? My colleague and I were very impressed by the setup and had a blast (and pre-ordered some pads and sticks for our office).
 
MarkMan said:
Inside wiring of regular SF4 FightStick (360)....

snip


---

You don't know how many PMs/msgs I get about this -_-

First time I've seen the inside of a stick under $100 that has quick disconnects and wiring that clean right off the bat.
 
EMBee99 said:
Thank SF4 for that. Before playing with the MadCatz sticks at CES, I had no real interest in using one with the game. Now, I can't wait to get to modding my own soon.

MarkMan, were you in the suite at CES? My colleague and I were very impressed by the setup and had a blast (and pre-ordered some pads and sticks for our office).

I was only at the suite on Wednesday and early Thursday morning, I flew out before any of the press meetings/appointments.

Who were you with?

Hopefully Alex took care of you guys, I'm sure he did...


---

Regarding the area where the stick should be... That's what spot welding does ;)

If you take out a HRAP2 and see the mounting plate after taking out the stick it looks about the same.
 
drmcclin said:
You mean the game is so awesome it will literally blow the stick portion right out of the box? (scroll up to the pic, then re-read the question).


That's what I was thinking. Hahaha. But as MM said, soldering marks. Still. The pic should be labled "After a hard days work of SFIV..."
 
Caj814 said:
First time I've seen the inside of a stick under $100 that has quick disconnects and wiring that clean right off the bat.

The HRAP3 has quick disconnects as well, and well, wiring is wiring, honestly. But yeah, it definitely looks good for modding, and makes my decision that that bit harder again.
 
Yes the HRAP3 (US version) is under $100 and has QDs for for buttons.

They aren't labeled like the SF4 sticks though.
 
I hope I came to the right place. I don't have the upcoming TE SFIV stick on pre-order (I was a little too late,) but I'm hoping someone at the local GameStop refuses to pick-up their order. Or perhaps MadCatz will release another batch. ANYWAY

IF I don't manage to get a the TE stick when SFIV comes out ... What would be my next best move? I was looking at the Hori RAP3. I want something high-quality and with a solid base that doesn't move. OR would ya'll recommend building my own?
 
ruxtpin said:
I hope I came to the right place. I don't have the upcoming TE SFIV stick on pre-order (I was a little too late,) but I'm hoping someone at the local GameStop refuses to pick-up their order. Or perhaps MadCatz will release another batch. ANYWAY

IF I don't manage to get a the TE stick when SFIV comes out ... What would be my next best move? I was looking at the Hori RAP3. I want something high-quality and with a solid base that doesn't move. OR would ya'll recommend building my own?
HRAP3 is a very nice choice and relatively easy to upgrade.

Of course, if you have the ability, Customs are best... because they're designed for what works best for you!
Useful resource: http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/introduction.html
 
I bought a HRAP3 and have been using it. I like it a lot. The buttons are a bit, umm... squishy I guess but I have no frame of reference here to say its better or worse than anything else (I can't remember the last time I put a quarter into an arcade machine that wasn't some racing or shooting game at Dave & Busters...). It's heavy, and when its on my lap it does not move. I have been playing some HD Remix on it, and I can't go back to the regular pad with it. It doesn't hurt that the HRAP3 is $60 less than the TE FightStick.
 
I've pre-ordered one of the Hori SFIV sticks from Amazon.jp.

Seems like the most cost-effective option for me (I live in Japan) and if I don't like the buttons then they're easiy modded.
 
Yea the PS3 SF4 Hori arcade stick, you can easily swap out buttons. The 360 one however (an EX2), takes some work...

Posted these on SRK...

---

3211613952_f93d524458.jpg


3210767515_a04d3f9dc5.jpg


BONUS PIC:

3211612264_8f079e304b.jpg


I either lap it or use this lil' stand for my main gaming area... stays on/doesn't move around at all...
 
MarkMan said:
Inside wiring of regular SF4 FightStick (360)....

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3308/3210768236_2662019c51_b.jpg[/IG]


---

You don't know how many PMs/msgs I get about this -_-[/QUOTE]
hrmm. i'll probably wait for reports of people actually putting cthulu in there before i order one
 
MarkMan said:
Yea the PS3 SF4 Hori arcade stick, you can easily swap out buttons. The 360 one however (an EX2), takes some work...

Yeah, I should have mentioned, I've ordered the (easily modded) PS3 stick.
 
HoriStore has the HRAP3 SA in stock again. I was really considering getting one, until I asked my friend in Japan about shipping costs and found that shipping a ~6lb package would cost about $70.

Back to the US HRAP3 plan! But if anyone out there has got money to burn and wants one, here's your chance.
 
MarkMan said:
3211612264_8f079e304b.jpg


I either lap it or use this lil' stand for my main gaming area... stays on/doesn't move around at all...

I definitely appreciate you guys putting those little rubber feet on the TE. Very nice touch!
 
One other question concerning the Hori RAP3 for the PS3. If, in the future, I decided I wanted to mod it with better buttons and a new stick, is the RAP3 easily mod-able?
 
Finally modded my HRAP3 with the white translucent Seimitsus. It looks fucking sexy as hell :D

Glad I went this route instead of getting a SFIV TE stick. Same functionality with much cooler look at around the same price :D
 
_dementia said:
In your opinion is it better than the VSHG out of the box?

I really hate 8 button sticks :(

oh well, button plugs it is...

Yes, of course.. I like the build quality and finish of the VSHG better than the TE stick but over all the TE is a better stick with more features.

Anyway, I think some of you are missing the point of the TE sticks button layout.

DO NOT PLUG THE BUTTONS.

You can do whatever you want, but the way it is laid out, you can play at an angle or strait across. I dont think any other stick has a set up like this. If you have ppl come over who want to play on the stick, they can reassign the buttons if they prefer the angle or strait across.
 
haunts said:
Yes, of course.. I like the build quality and finish of the VSHG better than the TE stick but over all the TE is a better stick with more features.

Anyway, I think some of you are missing the point of the TE sticks button layout.

DO NOT PLUG THE BUTTONS.

You can do whatever you want, but the way it is laid out, you can play at an angle or strait across. I dont think any other stick has a set up like this. If you have ppl come over who want to play on the stick, they can reassign the buttons if they prefer the angle or strait across.
dude my tekken stick has this 'zomg dual layout' as well. it never gets used. i prefer the angled layout, but i prefer the straight layout's distance from the stick. if i play on my tekken stick, i use the outside layout... just like everyone else who's used my tekken stick (plus it's too much of a hassle to change control layout when you're playing casuals passing the sticks around all the time). when i built my stick, i made it exactly how i like :D

IMG_5544.jpg


edit: well i guess the tekken isn't a true straight layout, but it's close enough
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom