NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread

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There are LEDs inside the case that are making the OBSCs light up. There was an article on that stick that I thought was linked in her but glancing back a few posts I don't see it. If I come across it again I'll post it.
 
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Looks like Game Watch reformatted that article. Anyway, that case is internally lit... Not a fan of cheese lighting; that fad went out with 'let's make everything transparent'... Oh well, at least if you get stopped at customs, they won't think it's a bomb or, wait.......
 
Leshita said:
I wonder if this stick really is going to be 'limited'. Does anyone know how long it took the Femme Fatale SF4 stick to sell out when that was put on sale?
I'm surprised the SFxT sticks are still available as there are only 500pcs each, though I guess I overestimated the demand for arcade sticks. :S

The SFXT sticks have about 20-30 labels over 1000 out in the wild. This was due to some labels getting damaged/scrapped in the manufacturing process. Simply a miscommunication with the factory that we had too late. Unfortunate I wasn't notified earlier.

But the stick really is 'limited'. Trust me, there were only 1000 total made.

The Femme Fatale stick didn't sell out when it was put on sale either, the Xbox 360 one took about a week to sell through, then about a month or two for the PS3 ones.

Overestimated the demand? Nah. Do you think we want to sell out right away? lol. We can afford to have some sticks hang out in our web store for awhile. We actually like to have different stock on the web store.
 
Is there any way i can use my regular headphones on any arcade stick? i googled and nada.
I own 2 SF4 TE sticks and just want to plug in some studio monitor headphones while playing late at night .

I would appreciate any information you may have on this, i know i can't be the only person who wants to plug in normal headphones while gaming. right?


thanks in advance for any info
 
JrBaconCheeseburger said:
Is there any way i can use my regular headphones on any arcade stick? i googled and nada.
I own 2 SF4 TE sticks and just want to plug in some studio monitor headphones while playing late at night .

I would appreciate any information you may have on this, i know i can't be the only person who wants to plug in normal headphones while gaming. right?


thanks in advance for any info
You can't I'm afraid. Game audio itself isn't transferred through controllers.

Perhaps your TV has a headphone input?
 
Ordered some countersink bits and a stop collar.

Getting closer to having all the tools I need to begin crafting my new weapon! :D

In the meantime I'm going to reinforce my ailing MAS stick which is falling apart.
 
so I'm sure this will be blasphemy, but I'm switching out the sanwa parts I put into my SF4 stick with Happ buttons, any issues with doing this I should know about? I know I'll have to stay with sanwa for my joystick because to add a Happ you have to mod the case which I'm not in a rush to do
 
GodfatherX said:
so I'm sure this will be blasphemy, but I'm switching out the sanwa parts I put into my SF4 stick with Happ buttons, any issues with doing this I should know about? I know I'll have to stay with sanwa for my joystick because to add a Happ you have to mod the case which I'm not in a rush to do

I don't think Happ will fit... what size buttons are you getting? Sanwa are 30mm. Also Happ go a lot deeper into the case, there might not be room that way either.
 
I'm looking to get my hands on the hori vlx bag (I'm in the UK). Anyone willing to help me out and ship it to me or know anywhere I can get it to the UK? Or hell if anyone can recommend a good bag for it.
 
GodfatherX said:
so I'm sure this will be blasphemy, but I'm switching out the sanwa parts I put into my SF4 stick with Happ buttons, any issues with doing this I should know about? I know I'll have to stay with sanwa for my joystick because to add a Happ you have to mod the case which I'm not in a rush to do
I think Happ buttons might be too small for the 30mm holes. You might have to get a custom top plate done.
 
awwyeahgurrl said:
I'm looking to get my hands on the hori vlx bag (I'm in the UK). Anyone willing to help me out and ship it to me or know anywhere I can get it to the UK? Or hell if anyone can recommend a good bag for it.

lucky for you i have one that im trying to sell. if you want send me a pm.
 
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GodfatherX said:
so I'm sure this will be blasphemy, but I'm switching out the sanwa parts I put into my SF4 stick with Happ buttons, any issues with doing this I should know about? I know I'll have to stay with sanwa for my joystick because to add a Happ you have to mod the case which I'm not in a rush to do

Instead of longer profile Happ/ iL buttons, you can mod with lower profile Sanwa OBS series buttons, as pictured above, e.g. OBS-30-A/B. These buttons are quite similar to Happ/ iL (they use clicky-switches).

I don't like these stock OBS buttons (too stiff), but you can replace their switches with Cherry ones found in Happ/ iL buttons (or any other V3-sized, snap-action microswitches).

You'll need to remove the microswitch assembly, remove the rivets and replace them with matching nuts & bolts.

There maybe excessive friction from the whole button assembly (some cheap plastics used), but that can be fixed easily with some silicone grease and general use.

Unlike Happ/ iL, these OBS button enclosures don't have an internal spring; they feel different. However, they are the same, standard, Sanwa OBSF/ OBSN convex button enclosures; therefore, you can use your existing Sanwa buttons, and only need to replace the lower microswitch assembly (they can be bought separately, IIRC).

These are expensive buttons, and some effort is required, but at least there's another option available, with a lower profile...
 
Is there any way to give my ball-top a more rubberized texture? I find it slipping far too often for my tastes. I bought a mesh-top thinking it was full of grooves but it turned out to just be a pattern which was disappointing.
 
grap3fruitman said:
Is there any way to give my ball-top a more rubberized texture? I find it slipping far too often for my tastes. I bought a mesh-top thinking it was full of grooves but it turned out to just be a pattern which was disappointing.
I suggest Plati Dip - It's relatively cheap, well-liked among hobbyists, and gives anything a nice rubberized coating. You could also try Sugru, a kind of self-curing silicone putty, but you'd have a tougher time getting a smooth layer over the entire surface of the ball top, as opposed to Plasti Dip being a thick liquid that you could actually dunk something in.
 
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Managed to pick up 2 Hitboxes over the past 3 weeks. A PS3 / PC one ( top ) and a PS3 / Dualmod one.

It's fantastic!!! If you guys can land yourselves one go for it!! The precision is just incredible on this thing!!The hardest thing you'll have to get used to is general movement. But with a few days of practice you'll easily get adjusted to it. Things like special moves, combos, etc all come with ease. I was pulling off super jumps instantly cancelled into down forward dash (triangle dashes ) the first day thanks to Down + Up = Super Jump in MvC3 :D . Pretty much instant overhead 100% of the time

Need to work on my 360 motions but almost a month and a half of practice in MvC3 for Ultimate :)
The hardest move to pull off is the the half circle motion on the dualmod when playing on the 360. In MvC3 in particular I can get it to come out sometimes but still haven't gotten the movement down.

Size comparison with some of my other sticks.

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Oh the Tiger Knee motions are so easy on this its stupid lol. Also I will probably be putting the PS3 / PC on eBay shortly as I don't need it so check that out soon.
 
Got this in the other day...

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eightarc's "Pearl" PS3/PC Arcade Joystick. eightarc is a partner company of Qanba. There are some specific differences between this stick and previous Qanba released iterations.

More details here: http://eightarc.com

I'm creeping up on 300 in my collection..
 
CadetMahoney said:
I asked why they are so cheap not expensive.

Anyway, any idea what the postage is on those within the USA for comparison with typical UK prices.

Akihabarashop in Japan has Sanwas for $32.4 prior to expensive overseas postage.

That's because of shipping, I guess.

Even buying direct from Sanwa is cheap. Just find a site with better shipping rates :P !
 
The EightArc Fusion definitely looks nice, but I don't think I could justify paying $185 for it when the Q4RAF has dual console support too and is also 35 dollars less.
 
I got kinda unlazy and took pics of some of my arcade stick stuff...

I have a Tournament Edition pillow, lol...

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This is how I store my parts...

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And this is a shelving unit in my living room...

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I think I like arcade sticks and games a little...
 
The guys in SF4 GAF aren't too knowledgable about arcade stick parts, it seems, so I'm asking you guys.

I'm having a problem with the "rebound" on my TE Stick (Sanwa). When I let go of the stick from the 'back' position, instead of going back to neutral, it rebounds too far and inputs a quick 'forward' motion. I can tell this from turning on input display in training mode.

Can I get a stick that either has a tighter rebound (gets locked into the neutral position after letting go of the stick, without giving an extra, unnecessary input), or that rebounds slightly slow (so there is not enough inertia to cause it to add an extra input)?

I was thinking about maybe getting a seimetsu or some other brand stick to help with this problem of rebound. Anyone got some suggestions?
 
Timedog said:
The guys in SF4 GAF aren't too knowledgable about arcade stick parts, it seems, so I'm asking you guys.

I'm having a problem with the "rebound" on my TE Stick (Sanwa). When I let go of the stick from the 'back' position, instead of going back to neutral, it rebounds too far and inputs a quick 'forward' motion. I can tell this from turning on input display in training mode.

Can I get a stick that either has a tighter rebound (gets locked into the neutral position after letting go of the stick, without giving an extra, unnecessary input), or that rebounds slightly slow (so there is not enough inertia to cause it to add an extra input)?

I was thinking about maybe getting a seimetsu or some other brand stick to help with this problem of rebound. Anyone got some suggestions?

Cheapest solution would be to get a stiffer spring to replace or add to the JLF you're using. More expensive but (IMO) better solution is to get a Seimitsu LS-32-01 and swap it out. Much stiffer spring and shorter throw in general compared to a JLF.
 
hikarutilmitt said:
Cheapest solution would be to get a stiffer spring to replace or add to the JLF you're using. More expensive but (IMO) better solution is to get a Seimitsu LS-32-01 and swap it out. Much stiffer spring and shorter throw in general compared to a JLF.
Is that seimitsu pretty fuckin boss? Maybe I'll just go with that.

Also, can I get a ball top (or any shape top, really) that doesn't have spin. I think the ball top spinning on my TE might be fucking me up.
 
Timedog said:
Is that seimitsu pretty fuckin boss? Maybe I'll just go with that.

Also, can I get a ball top (or any shape top, really) that doesn't have spin. I think the ball top spinning on my TE might be fucking me up.
The ball itself spinning means it's loose. I've found that any top I've put on my LS32 seems to stay put better than on any JLF I've used (and I've used several). I prefer the snugness of the battops fitting onto it, but ball tops stay just as well. If anything I would suggest using a screwdriver and turning it REALLY hard.
 
hikarutilmitt said:
The ball itself spinning means it's loose. I've found that any top I've put on my LS32 seems to stay put better than on any JLF I've used (and I've used several). I prefer the snugness of the battops fitting onto it, but ball tops stay just as well. If anything I would suggest using a screwdriver and turning it REALLY hard.

Yeah, I'm just gonna buy that stick once I have the money. Is there anything wrong with the TE stick buttons? Could I get better buttons? What would the difference be?
 
As well as the question above ^^^, how do I mod my TE stick artwork? This video shows a guy doing it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5e6IfpJ5h8&feature=related

But he has some exotic machine that laminates one side of something, and puts adhesive on the other side. I'm sure I can make the art fine in photoshop or whatever, but what can I use to laminate or treat the artwork before putting it on, what type of paper should I use, and or where could I get this made at?
 
Yeah it's pretty handy, I have one on my round 1. The only problem is that the plexi is thick and sticks up slightly higher than the bezel so it gets slightly uncomfortable during really long sessions. It's not terrible though.
 
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