NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread

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MarkMan said:
I got kinda unlazy and took pics of some of my arcade stick stuff...

I have a Tournament Edition pillow, lol...

6199805414_5ef32f8f15_b.jpg


This is how I store my parts...

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And this is a shelving unit in my living room...

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I think I like arcade sticks and games a little...
Click to expand...

On the next episode of "Hoarders"...
 
Oh, that Tekken TE stick is so sweet. I'm so unwilling to drop $250 bucks for it though. Might be easier to just get a full black plexi from Tek Innovations.
 
Hi guys, I'm new to the whole modding arcade sticks thing, so I have a few questions.

If I want to replace the art, what should I print it on? Telling me where I could get it would be nice, but considering that I'm in Mexico and you guys in the US that'd be irrelevant...

If I wanted to get parts for a TvC stick, what type should I get? I don't mean Sanwa or Seimitsu, I mean like what size and that kind of stuff.

Also, does anyone know how well this converter works? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003711698/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
SolarKnight said:
Hi guys, I'm new to the whole modding arcade sticks thing, so I have a few questions.

If I want to replace the art, what should I print it on? Telling me where I could get it would be nice, but considering that I'm in Mexico and you guys in the US that'd be irrelevant...

If I wanted to get parts for a TvC stick, what type should I get? I don't mean Sanwa or Seimitsu, I mean like what size and that kind of stuff.

Also, does anyone know how well this converter works? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003711698/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Click to expand...

Buttons are 30MM in size. Standard balltop size is 35mm.
 
MarkMan said:
And this is a shelving unit in my living room...

6199804560_406303bc71_b.jpg


I think I like arcade sticks and games a little...
Click to expand...
I think this is only a fraction of the sticks you have as well. Im curious what your complete collection looks like now. You probably cant keep them all in one place heh. We are all thankful for your love of arcade sticks.

Your love and work for Madcatz is a big reason many of us have quality arcade sticks in the US now. Im using an original TE stick with and still love it. Your work and Madcatzs change to a commitment to quality, is a big reason there is many options for quality sticks out in the US. Madcatz showed there is a healthy market for quality arcade sticks in the US. As someone who has suffered using crappy console arcade sticks over the years, thanks again for the work you have done at Madcatz and for the community. I think that is enough compliments for now heh.
 
19 & 21 said:
This is fucking absurd. WHY?!
Click to expand...

This is my job and who I am. Who am I kidding, even if I didn't work with arcade sticks, I'd still be the same. /keeping it real.

Zertez said:
I think this is only a fraction of the sticks you have as well. Im curious what your complete collection looks like now. You probably cant keep them all in one place heh. We are all thankful for your love of arcade sticks.

Your love and work for Madcatz is a big reason many of us have quality arcade sticks in the US now. Im using an original TE stick with and still love it. Your work and Madcatzs change to a commitment to quality, is a big reason there is many options for quality sticks out in the US. Madcatz showed there is a healthy market for quality arcade sticks in the US. As someone who has suffered using crappy console arcade sticks over the years, thanks again for the work you have done at Madcatz and for the community. I think that is enough compliments for now heh.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the very kind words. And yeah. That's just one corner of the room. lol.
 
j^aws said:
Instead of longer profile Happ/ iL buttons, you can mod with lower profile Sanwa OBS series buttons, as pictured above, e.g. OBS-30-A/B. These buttons are quite similar to Happ/ iL (they use clicky-switches).

I don't like these stock OBS buttons (too stiff), but you can replace their switches with Cherry ones found in Happ/ iL buttons (or any other V3-sized, snap-action microswitches).

You'll need to remove the microswitch assembly, remove the rivets and replace them with matching nuts & bolts.

There maybe excessive friction from the whole button assembly (some cheap plastics used), but that can be fixed easily with some silicone grease and general use.

Unlike Happ/ iL, these OBS button enclosures don't have an internal spring; they feel different. However, they are the same, standard, Sanwa OBSF/ OBSN convex button enclosures; therefore, you can use your existing Sanwa buttons, and only need to replace the lower microswitch assembly (they can be bought separately, IIRC).

These are expensive buttons, and some effort is required, but at least there's another option available, with a lower profile...
Click to expand...
very much appreciated, right now i'm leaning towards building a happ stick from scratch and upgrading my sf4 stick with sanwa parts
 
Okay, so I was about to purchase a seimitsu LS-32, but this (image below) says that the JLF deflection on my TE stick is already "very low", while the deflection on the LS-32 is just "low". Does anyone else have experience with both of these and deflection? The rest of the specs on the Seimitsu sound better than the JLF for my tastes, so I might just go with that and buy a tighter spring if it's a problem.

chart.png


Also, how long does it take for Lizard Lick to get their shit back in stock?
 
MarkMan said:
This is my job and who I am. Who am I kidding, even if I didn't work with arcade sticks, I'd still be the same. /keeping it real.
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I know who you are man I was just giving you shit for the most part. It's just shocking to see, more sticks in your living room than a bukkake movie.
 
Hunter-Zero said:
This will be fucking mine


Edit: Oh wow, limited edition? just 1000 units? maybe i´ts not for me then :(
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The Blaz, MvC3 and SFxTK sticks were limited to 3000, 3000 and 1000 respectively and took some time to sell out. The $250 pricetag might mean this takes a while to sell out too.
 
Cross posting from the tech talk noobie thread on srk to see if you guys have some advice for me:

I recently decided that I want to build a supergun because it'd be a fun project. The only thing holding me back from starting this immediately is the fact that I don't yet have a solution for 2 sticks (and this is a pre-req for starting it, as no one I know has a PSX compatible stick). My plans are to build the SG and get 2 FGW converters to use with PSX compatible sticks. My main issue is that out of all of the sticks I have, I only really have one I can mod easily to work with this, so I need some suggestions on the easiest/cheapest way to get a second stick to work.

I have 4 sticks right now:
360 TE-S - already dual modded with Teasy Strike so not much I can do
PS3 TE - I'm planning on dropping an MC Cthulhu in here so that's the one stick that will work
360 HRAP EX-SE - stock
PS3 T6 hori wireless stick - stock

Is there an easy/cheap way for me to mod either of the last two? One of my issues is that I don't want the RJ45 jack to take up the select button slot, and I'm fine with putting in another hole somewhere for it. Also in the case of the T6 stick, if I did anything with it at all I'd need to swap out the buttons and the stick so that drives the price up $50 right there. I'm also not opposed to finding a used tvc stick and dropping in an MC Cthulhu or something similar if that happens to be the best solution. Thanks for any help!
 
Yes Boss! said:
Prettiest stick from Madcatz, by a long shot. Ordered. Though I've no idea what Tekken Hybrid is. Just a movie?
Click to expand...
It's A 3D movie, Tekken Tag Tournament HD and a Tekken Tag Tournament 2 Demo.

I'm mainly interested in TTTHD. I loved the PS2 version and this one is 1080p native just like Tekken 5 Dark Ressurection on PSN.
 
Timedog said:
Okay, so I was about to purchase a seimitsu LS-32, but this (image below) says that the JLF deflection on my TE stick is already "very low", while the deflection on the LS-32 is just "low". Does anyone else have experience with both of these and deflection?
[...]
Click to expand...

From my experience, deflection is measuring how much a stick oscillates.

For example, if you move the stick to one extreme, and let go, so that it subsequently moves freely back to centre, a stick that oscillates before coming back to rest has a "high deflection"; a stick that doesn't oscillate, but rather, snaps back to centre, has a "low deflection".

Also, deflection shouldn't be confused with stiffness; you can use light or heavy springs, yet still have a high deflection.

It's best to try for yourself. There's no perfect stick; they're all flawed with their pros and cons...

rivals said:
Cross posting from the tech talk noobie thread on srk to see if you guys have some advice for me:
[...]
Click to expand...

- Learn to solder and wire.
- Learn to hack PSX pad.
- Pick a joystick enclosure, and rewire for PSX.
- Hack a different pad, e.g. Saturn, and rewire.
- Hack pads for multiple systems, and rewire.
- Use project boxes (or cheap, small enclosures) and D-sub connectors (e.g. 15/ 25 pins), and rewire the aforementioned systems.
- You can mod stock buttons, and stock joyticks, to be better than arcade-grade parts.

... Just spread the time and cost - it's not that daunting, nor difficult.
 
I know how to solder :) It was more of a 'what are my options' post. Thankfully I figured out the most minimal solution possible last night so I'm pretty excited. A friend of mine wanted a teasy strike and they are sold out so he's going to take that off my hands and I'm replacing it with a TE Kitty in my 360 stick. I'm going to start ordering everything for it today, I'm probably going to document the entire process I'm just not sure how I want to do it yet.
 
j^aws said:
From my experience, deflection is measuring how much a stick oscillates.

For example, if you move the stick to one extreme, and let go, so that it subsequently moves freely back to centre, a stick that oscillates before coming back to rest has a "high deflection"; a stick that doesn't oscillate, but rather, snaps back to centre, has a "low deflection".

Also, deflection shouldn't be confused with stiffness; you can use light or heavy springs, yet still have a high deflection.

It's best to try for yourself. There's no perfect stick; they're all flawed with their pros and cons...
Click to expand...

I wasn't asking for the definition of deflection. You appear to have missed the earlier discussion involving that seimitsu stick vs the jlf. Another poster said I should get the seimitsu (or get a stiffer spring for my jlf) because the deflection was less in the seimitsu.
 
Timedog said:
I wasn't asking for the definition of deflection. You appear to have missed the earlier discussion involving that seimitsu stick vs the jlf. Another poster said I should get the seimitsu (or get a stiffer spring for my jlf) because the deflection was less in the seimitsu.
Click to expand...

Deflection is a vague, ambiguous term. If you've never used an LS-32 before and others are giving recommendations on the basis of deflection, and based on some 'chart', you don't really know what you are buying and why.

I have experience with both those sticks, stock and extensively modded. (You were asking for that in your post.) A high deflection can be both a positive and negative, which is why I said it's best to try for yourself.
 
j^aws said:
Deflection is a vague, ambiguous term. If you've never used an LS-32 before and others are giving recommendations on the basis of deflection, and based on some 'chart', you don't really know what you are buying and why.

I have experience with both those sticks, stock and extensively modded. (You were asking for that in your post.) A high deflection can be both a positive and negative, which is why I said it's best to try for yourself.
Click to expand...

Deflection, as I understand it, is not about how much the stick oscillates, but about how much the stick oscillates in relation to how far the stick oscillates in relation to directional engage distance. To put it another way, when let go of from a directed position and allowed to return to the neutral position, the stick's propensity to engage opposite directional before returning to neutral.

I let go of the stick a lot of the time, and this causes me so many headaches in Street Fighter IV with it's batshit insane input shortcuts.

When I let go of the jlf stick, a lot of the time it will engage the opposite directional and stuff that I didn't want to come out will come out.
 
Timedog said:
Deflection, as I understand it, is not about how much the stick oscillates, but about how much the stick oscillates in relation to how far the stick oscillates in relation to directional engage distance. To put it another way, when let go of from a directed position and allowed to return to the neutral position, the stick's propensity to engage opposite directional before returning to neutral.
Click to expand...

Basically, oscillation until stationary (function of amplitude and frequency) about the centre (centre != neutral), when the stick is released to move freely from an extreme position. That's how I see it.

And relation to switch engage distances shouldn't be relevant, because a freely oscillating stick shouldn't hit any other switches (accidental inputs).

Timedog said:
I let go of the stick a lot of the time, and this causes me so many headaches in Street Fighter IV with it's batshit insane input shortcuts.

When I let go of the jlf stick, a lot of the time it will engage the opposite directional and stuff that I didn't want to come out will come out.
Click to expand...

A stock JLF shouldn't be doing this. Sounds like there's something wrong with the stick.

Is the gate secured properly?(The gate secures the microswitches in position, and if it doesn't snap cleanly into the chassis, the switches can be misaligned.)

Or have you dismantled the joystick, and rebuilt it improperly, or something? It could just be a faulty stick too...
 
Timedog said:
I wasn't asking for the definition of deflection. You appear to have missed the earlier discussion involving that seimitsu stick vs the jlf. Another poster said I should get the seimitsu (or get a stiffer spring for my jlf) because the deflection was less in the seimitsu.
Click to expand...

The problem you're having is because the spring is worn out, which is why I suggested a stiffer spring or an LS-32-01. The difference between the deflections of the sticks is minimal. In fact, my LS32-01 doesn't hit other directions when let go even with an aluminum bat top on it, and it's still using the stock spring I've had in it for like 2 years, now.

I'm actually thinking about swapping in an LS40 some time, or maybe trying out the LS58-01 when it comes out this month, just t give it a shot.


Toski said:
Does anyone have anymore information on the Seimitsu LS-58-01? Is this replacing the LS-56 or is this some new design?
Click to expand...
It's basically the LS56 "replacement" design. The only things I can see that are different is that it's a bit cheaper, there is a larger variety of colors for the shaft cover and dustwasher and the plate it comes with by default is a normal rectangular one instead of a square (pain in the ass) one.
 
j^aws said:
Basically, oscillation until stationary (function of amplitude and frequency) about the centre (centre != neutral), when the stick is released to move freely from an extreme position. That's how I see it.

And relation to switch engage distances shouldn't be relevant, because a freely oscillating stick shouldn't hit any other switches (accidental inputs).



A stock JLF shouldn't be doing this. Sounds like there's something wrong with the stick.

Is the gate secured properly?(The gate secures the microswitches in position, and if it doesn't snap cleanly into the chassis, the switches can be misaligned.)

Or have you dismantled the joystick, and rebuilt it improperly, or something? It could just be a faulty stick too...
Click to expand...
The arcade stick website I posted earlier says different. In either case, I'll buy the seimitsu ls32, and if that doesn't work, I'll buy a stiffer spring for whichever stick I like the best. Thanks you everyone for your help. I'll report back my findings.
 
Timedog said:
The arcade stick website I posted earlier says different. In either case, I'll buy the seimitsu ls32, and if that doesn't work, I'll buy a stiffer spring for whichever stick I like the best. Thanks you everyone for your help. I'll report back my findings.
Click to expand...

I'm curious, that site is saying that a freely oscillating stick should hit other switches? And for a JLF, which supposedly has the least 'deflection'?
 
j^aws said:
I'm curious, that site is saying that a freely oscillating stick should hit other switches? And for a JLF, which supposedly has the least 'deflection'?
Click to expand...

Not that it "should", which implies that it was designed to do so, but that in practice it does.

If it deflection didn't engage directionals, why would anyone even care that much about it? I certainly wouldn't give a flying fuck unless it was off the charts bad. As soon as my had touches the stick again the deflection is absorbed. Here's the site: http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#DEFLECTION
 
Timedog said:
Not that it "should", which implies that it was designed to do so, but that in practice it does.

If it deflection didn't engage directionals, why would anyone even care that much about it? I certainly wouldn't give a flying fuck unless it was off the charts bad. As soon as my had touches the stick again the deflection is absorbed. Here's the site: http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#DEFLECTION
Click to expand...

Have you ever used a Happ Competition joystick? They have a high 'deflection', so does an LS-32, so does a JLF. They all have high deflections (maximum amplitude).

However, the main difference with the Happ (regarding deflection) is the design of the Pivot compared to Japanese sticks (JLF, LS32). This design makes the stick oscillate differently. This is the significant factor that gives the stick its feel, and why people still care. Not whether or not the deflection engages diagonals (accidentally or otherwise).
 
j^aws said:
Have you ever used a Happ Competition joystick? They have a high 'deflection', so does an LS-32, so does a JLF. They all have high deflections (maximum amplitude).

However, the main difference with the Happ (regarding deflection) is the design of the Pivot compared to Japanese sticks (JLF, LS32). This design makes the stick oscillate differently. This is the significant factor that gives the stick its feel, and why people still care. Not whether or not the deflection engages diagonals (accidentally or otherwise).
Click to expand...

Welp, I think I, and that website, may have a different definition of deflection from you.
 
Timedog said:
Welp, I think I, and that website, may have a different definition of deflection from you.
Click to expand...

Not really. That website and you are calling 'deflection' the initial part of what I'm calling oscillation (the part with maximum amplitude in oscillation).

However, that chart (posted earlier by yourself) is *not* describing 'deflection' as you and the site are defining. This is because the LS-32 is rated "low", whilst the Happ Comp is rated "very high". Those ratings should be similar. That chart is inconsistent and is more closely describing my definition.

A similar joystick to the Happ Comp - Happ Super knock-off (also rated very high for deflection) is being compared to the LS-32:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-DrKB_Dhis#t=01m49s

... You can clearly see that their 'deflections' are similar, but their oscillations are significantly different.
 
j^aws said:
Not really. That website and you are calling 'deflection' the initial part of what I'm calling oscillation (the part with maximum amplitude in oscillation).

However, that chart (posted earlier by yourself) is *not* describing 'deflection' as you and the site are defining. This is because the LS-32 is rated "low", whilst the Happ Comp is rated "very high". Those ratings should be similar. That chart is inconsistent and is more closely describing my definition.

A similar joystick to the Happ Comp - Happ Super knock-off (also rated very high for deflection) is being compared to the LS-32:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-DrKB_Dhis#t=01m49s

... You can clearly see that their 'deflections' are similar, but their oscillations are significantly different.
Click to expand...

The chart is from the same webpage I linked to. Amplitude of the initial wave of oscillation says nothing about whether or not directionals are being engaged. Aaaaaand this is a stupid argument.
 
Timedog said:
The chart is from the same webpage I linked to. Amplitude of the initial wave of oscillation says nothing about whether or not directionals are being engaged. Aaaaaand this is a stupid argument.
Click to expand...

1. Yep, I know that chart is from the same page. It was why I replied.

2. A freely oscillating stick shouldn't be engaging switches, if it does, it's a stupid design or it's faulty.

3. You posted an inconsistent chart, and now declare the argument stupid.
 
j^aws said:
1. Yep, I know that chart is from the same page. It was why I replied.

2. A freely oscillating stick shouldn't be engaging switches, if it does, it's a stupid design or it's faulty.

3. You posted an inconsistent chart, and now declare the argument stupid.
Click to expand...
Alright, I guess slagcoin just made shit up. Okay, if ya say so. I submit to you, The Grandmaster of the Universe. There, argument done.

I'm buying the Seimitsu, we'll see if that helps.
 
Timedog said:
Alright, I guess slagcoin just made shit up. Okay, if ya say so. I submit to you, The Grandmaster of the Universe. There, argument done.

I'm buying the Seimitsu, we'll see if that helps.
Click to expand...

Don't put words in my mouth. Slagcoin:

"Sometimes this deflection can briefly engage the opposite direction, and it can make finding neutral slightly more difficult."

This isn't contradicting anything I've said.
 
j^aws said:
Don't put words in my mouth. Slagcoin:

"Sometimes this deflection can briefly engage the opposite direction, and it can make finding neutral slightly more difficult."

This isn't contradicting anything I've said.
Click to expand...

"A freely oscillating stick shouldn't be engaging switches" <--you
 
j^aws said:
Nope. You truncated what I said. Try reading the whole (on this page and the previous page).
Click to expand...

You followed with "if it does, it's a stupid design or it's faulty."

Which is basically a reiteration of the quote I posted in my last post, but with some implications explicitly outlined. I'm sorry bro, you said it, and it's plain as day. If there are multiple layers of sub-text and figurative subtlety to that statement then you'll have to outline that for me, because the meaning of that statement seems very self-evident and very self-contained.
 
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