NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread

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Timedog said:
You followed with "if it does, it's a stupid design or it's faulty."

Which is basically a reiteration of the quote I posted in my last post, but with some implications explicitly outlined. I'm sorry bro, you said it, and it's plain as day. If there are multiple layers of sub-text and figurative subtlety to that statement then you'll have to outline that for me, because the meaning of that statement seems very self-evident and very self-contained.
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1. Lookup what should means.

2. You truncated the quote and changed the meaning.

3. From the previous page:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=31642148&postcount=16790

"Basically, oscillation until stationary (function of amplitude and frequency) about the centre (centre != neutral), when the stick is released to move freely from an extreme position. That's how I see it.

And relation to switch engage distances shouldn't be relevant, because a freely oscillating stick shouldn't hit any other switches (accidental inputs)."

accidental inputs -> stupid

I also mentioned on the previous page a stock JLF shouldn't be doing what you described because it sounds like a faulty stick.

-> faulty

There's no contradiction.
 
j^aws said:
1. Lookup what should means.

2. You truncated the quote and changed the meaning.

3. From the previous page:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=31642148&postcount=16790

"Basically, oscillation until stationary (function of amplitude and frequency) about the centre (centre != neutral), when the stick is released to move freely from an extreme position. That's how I see it.

And relation to switch engage distances shouldn't be relevant, because a freely oscillating stick shouldn't hit any other switches (accidental inputs)."

accidental inputs -> stupid

I also mentioned on the previous page a stock JLF shouldn't be doing what you described because it sounds like a faulty stick.

-> faulty

There's no contradiction.
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1. If you are claiming that I don't know what should means, then please point out what I think it means, and how the actual definition differs.

2. How did I change the meaning? Here's the full thing: "A freely oscillating stick shouldn't be engaging switches, if it does, it's a stupid design or it's faulty."

As I already stated (and you seem to be ignoring), the part I truncated gives no extra meaning that was not already implied in the part that I left.

3. Repeating your view does nothing to further any argument, and it doesn't take back the fact that you typed what I quoted, which was in violation to what you said earlier. Now you're just going into weirdo irrational territory. Please construct your argument using discernible logic.
 
Timedog said:
1. If you are claiming that I don't know what should means, then please point out what I think it means, and how the actual definition differs.

2. How did I change the meaning? Here's the full thing: "A freely oscillating stick shouldn't be engaging switches, if it does, it's a stupid design or it's faulty."

As I already stated (and you seem to be ignoring), the part I truncated gives no extra meaning that was not already implied in the part that I left.

3. Repeating your view does nothing to further any argument, and it doesn't take back the fact that you typed what I quoted, which was in violation to what you said earlier. Now you're just going into weirdo irrational territory. Please construct your argument using discernible logic.
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1. and 2. Should is being used conditionally. I stated these conditions on the previous page and this page. Truncating these conditions does change the meaning of what I'm saying (you are removing the conditions, and sounds like you don't understand what should means).

3. My use of these conditions does not contradict what Slagcoin was saying. You're claiming that I did contradict, by posting the truncated quote. You haven't shown me how I contradicted Slagcoin by posting that quote.

Just because Slagcoin mentions that switches sometimes engage during deflection, doesn't mean that contradicts what I was saying, because should is being used conditionally, and I stated those conditions.
 
Yeah, I'm going to blow my brains out if I continue this. You win, as I already stated. You are the Grandmaster of the Universe. Good golly Ms. Molly.
 
Katamari_Fighter_by_Izzyjam.jpg


Anyone have this in high-res?
 
Is there a way to mod a MadCats Arcade stick so that it can be used on either PS3 or 360? I ran into a problem locally this week about a tourney I was going to enter being on the wrong system and I can't play pad at all.

Granted the tourney was a joke anyways, but it would be nice.
 
There are a variety of boards made by Toodles that can be added to a 360 stick for this that are easy to install without any soldering.

If it's already a PS3 stick, that's a different beast for dual-modding and WILL required soldering.
 
I picked up the US version of the Hori Fighting Stick V3 for PS3 yesterday at Devastation. LOL. It was quite the funny experience. I was at the Hori booth paying for it and a bunch of ppl started taking pictures of me buying stuff from there... I was like...

"Dude I buy from these guys all the time... I'm one of their best customers" >.>

Toodles (Of Tech Talk fame) tweeted a photo of it lol....
 
Looking to sell a working 360 TE Madcatz stick that I barely use anymore (Round 1) so I can buy a Qanba Q4 in the future. I saw a Qanba the other day and I just had to have it. Plus it's multiconsole, so that's great.

Anyone have any luck selling a stick on craigslist? I'm a complete newbie at selling things online.
 
spindashing said:
Looking to sell a working 360 TE Madcatz stick that I barely use anymore (Round 1) so I can buy a Qanba Q4 in the future. I saw a Qanba the other day and I just had to have it. Plus it's multiconsole, so that's great.

Anyone have any luck selling a stick on craigslist? I'm a complete newbie at selling things online.
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I am just wondering what the difference between the Qanba Q4 and the madcatz te? I did look at the Qanba but I'm not sure of the differences.
 
Lothars said:
I am just wondering what the difference between the Qanba Q4 and the madcatz te? I did look at the Qanba but I'm not sure of the differences.
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- The Qanba is just a little heavier than the TE.
- It also has a smaller USB cord than the TE.
- It is dualmodded straight out of the box. It can work on 360 and the PS3. (And PC)
- The start button is on the face of the stick along with the other attack buttons. It's not a Sanwa button, but it's just the start button. Well, I don't think it's a Sanwa button.
- It has a handle like a suitcase on the top for easy holding.
- Underneath is a felt material that snugs nicely to your legs when playing. You won't ever have to adjust the stick as if it were about to fall off your lap.

And that's it. I'm getting it for the dualmod. DSP does a nice review of it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nH9K1HCl3h0
 
_dementia said:
Qanba Start button isn't a 24mm Sanwa? That's lame. Is it easy to replace at least?
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You care that much about sanwa buttons for start? Huge start buttons seems to just make it way easier to press start accidentally, which we've seen a bunch of times in tournaments. Is it because of the whole "arcade feel" thing? Since the 1P/2P buttons are kind of like start/select, and those are always full arcade style buttons.

edit: nm, i actually food a good picture of the stick, that start placement is even worse. I guess crazy fingers people need not apply on the Qanba.
 
how much would shipping be on the qanba q4 from play-asia? or maybe canadian joysticks (if americans can order from there).
 
Timedog said:
You care that much about sanwa buttons for start? Huge start buttons seems to just make it way easier to press start accidentally, which we've seen a bunch of times in tournaments. Is it because of the whole "arcade feel" thing? Since the 1P/2P buttons are kind of like start/select, and those are always full arcade style buttons.

edit: nm, i actually food a good picture of the stick, that start placement is even worse. I guess crazy fingers people need not apply on the Qanba.
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The start button on a Vewlix layout is not as easy to hit as you might think.
 
_dementia said:
It's got to be an OCD thing or something. Even when I modded my HRAP EX I replaced the Hori clone start and back buttons.
Click to expand...

It is. When I replaced the Sanwas on my TE with purple Seimitsus I got the exact same buttons for ba/st but in 24mm flavor.

BTW, getting those 24mm Sanwas out was a goddamned pain.
 
spindashing said:
- The Qanba is just a little heavier than the TE.
- It also has a smaller USB cord than the TE.
- It is dualmodded straight out of the box. It can work on 360 and the PS3. (And PC)
- The start button is on the face of the stick along with the other attack buttons. It's not a Sanwa button, but it's just the start button. Well, I don't think it's a Sanwa button.
- It has a handle like a suitcase on the top for easy holding.
- Underneath is a felt material that snugs nicely to your legs when playing. You won't ever have to adjust the stick as if it were about to fall off your lap.

And that's it. I'm getting it for the dualmod. DSP does a nice review of it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nH9K1HCl3h0
Click to expand...
That's cool, thanks for the link. I will have to take a look at it.
 
hikarutilmitt said:
It is. When I replaced the Sanwas on my TE with purple Seimitsus I got the exact same buttons for ba/st but in 24mm flavor.

BTW, getting those 24mm Sanwas out was a goddamned pain.
Click to expand...
Yeah. I replaced those too because I wanted another color, lol.
 
Hitokage said:
The start button on a Vewlix layout is not as easy to hit as you might think.
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I wouldn't have a problem with it, but apparently some people have crazy fingers. I rarely, rarely hit the two "non street fighter" buttons next to the main 6.
 
Timedog said:
how much would shipping be on the qanba q4 from play-asia? or maybe canadian joysticks (if americans can order from there).
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PLay-asia: for me, it was about 64 bucks, shipping to southern california.

i wasnt aware, but it looks like they ship out of Ontario (im guessing Ontario, California)...I ordered the stick on a sunday and it arrived on tuesday.
 
kevo_huevo said:
PLay-asia: for me, it was about 64 bucks, shipping to southern california.

i wasnt aware, but it looks like they ship out of Ontario (im guessing Ontario, California)...I ordered the stick on a sunday and it arrived on tuesday.
Click to expand...

I guess you can get it on focusattack.com soon, and maybe amazon will have them in stock then too?
 
I'm sure this has been asked before, but I cant find the answer and it has been driving me nuts. Think I know the answer but want to double check.

I noticed the more I use a stick, the looser the "dead zone" becomes. I can wiggle the stick back and forth more and more before hitting a microswitch. How do you fix that? Just replace the spring? Any recommendations on a tight spring (but not too tight)?
 
robot said:
I'm sure this has been asked before, but I cant find the answer and it has been driving me nuts. Think I know the answer but want to double check.

I noticed the more I use a stick, the looser the "dead zone" becomes. I can wiggle the stick back and forth more and more before hitting a microswitch. How do you fix that? Just replace the spring? Any recommendations on a tight spring (but not too tight)?
Click to expand...
What stick do you have? If it's a JLF I hear people having success replacing the spring with one from a Seimitsu LS-32
 
_dementia said:
What stick do you have? If it's a JLF I hear people having success replacing the spring with one from a Seimitsu LS-32
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I have Seimitsu 32's - they've been in my cab for around 5 years now.
 
fuck it, i'mma spray paint it black rather than spend 15 bucks. Maybe. How long would it take for the spray paint smell to go away? and whats a good type of paint?
 
Timedog said:
fuck it, i'mma spray paint it black rather than spend 15 bucks. Maybe. How long would it take for the spray paint smell to go away? and whats a good type of paint?
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Black vinyl dye is a better idea than spray paint. It will stain the plastic so you don't have to worry about the color shipping off like you would with paint.
 
Hello Stick-GAF

Got a question, hoping you guys might be able to answer.

My TE-S has a small issue that I can't seem to pin down. In the turbo area, the stick seems to ignore all inputs if I switch from D-PAD to either Left Stick or Right Stick. when the switch is centered and an the D-PAD setting, the stick works fine and all directions are registered correctly. But on either of the others, the stick seems to fail to send a signal.

Checked the ribbon cables to the turbo area thing, and they all look fine. Turbo function itself works fine, as does the lock switch and the 360 guide button. Only this LS-DP-RS switch seems to not work.

Any idea what could cause this?

360 TE-S if that helps.
 
ColonelSkills said:
Hello Stick-GAF

Got a question, hoping you guys might be able to answer.

My TE-S has a small issue that I can't seem to pin down. In the turbo area, the stick seems to ignore all inputs if I switch from D-PAD to either Left Stick or Right Stick. when the switch is centered and an the D-PAD setting, the stick works fine and all directions are registered correctly. But on either of the others, the stick seems to fail to send a signal.

Checked the ribbon cables to the turbo area thing, and they all look fine. Turbo function itself works fine, as does the lock switch and the 360 guide button. Only this LS-DP-RS switch seems to not work.

Any idea what could cause this?

360 TE-S if that helps.
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Perhaps the game you're playing doesn't support analog input?
 
_dementia said:
Perhaps the game you're playing doesn't support analog input?
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Tested in game in 3S Online, didn't work. Tested on Xbox Dashboard, same deal. Tested as both first and second player on both, no dice.

Seems to be on the stick's end, not the software side.

Thanks for the quick reply though!
 
ColonelSkills said:
Tested in game in 3S Online, didn't work. Tested on Xbox Dashboard, same deal. Tested as both first and second player on both, no dice.

Seems to be on the stick's end, not the software side.

Thanks for the quick reply though!
Click to expand...
You could try hooking it up to your computer, going into joystick calibration mode, and seeing if it's outputting any analog signals when the switch is in either of those positions.
 
Orayn said:
You could try hooking it up to your computer, going into joystick calibration mode, and seeing if it's outputting any analog signals when the switch is in either of those positions.
Click to expand...
This was a good idea for a test.

The result is: Nope, it's not. There is no signal there either when it's set to the LS or RS options.
 
I'm so mad. There's 10% off on stuff from focusattack.com this weekend and i just ordered like 70 bucks worth of shit from there a few days before (new stick, 2 buttons, 3 stick tops, plexi).

I even looked at the sponsors for seasonsbeatings before i bought, because i knew that was coming up this weekend. I even, get this, tried like 20 different codes in their checkout coupon field with seasons beatings beforehand (SB11, SEASONSB, SEASONSBEATINGS, etc).

Anyways, SBVELOCITY as a coupon code to get some deals at focusattack.com if you order today.
 
notworksafe said:
Email Jman. He's a cool dude. He might hook you up with an after the fact discount.
Click to expand...

Honestly I don't even care that much, it's like 7 bucks, and that's IF all the stuff I bought was on sale. That was more just to let people know there's a sale if they're not into watching online streams of capcom fighting games. I might actually email him though, we'll see. I mean, $7 IS nearly 2 slices of gourmet pizza from the best pizza place on the west coast.
 
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