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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

If you're low on cash, the cheapest solution would be to mount one of your lenses backwards. Google for cheap backwards macro lens to find out how.

For the OP, here are examples of a Nikon 50mm mounted on a Nikon 55-200:
Ball point pen by Kevin, on Flickr
Honda Accord key by Kevin, on Flickr
I am not thrilled with the quality but it only cost a few bucks to "make" a macro lens, although this level is macro is a bit too much IMO.

Thanks. These are exactly the type of pictures I want to take. Every day things the human eye doesn't take notice of.
 

Sir Doom

Member
So I finally got my first camera 80D

I got a prime lens with no IS. I get camera shakes when I push the shutter, any good advice to minimize this
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
higher shutter speed

Just to supplement, but a good rule of thumb is to keep your shutter speed at the same value as your focal length or higher. Obviously it depends on how steady you are and the lens/body combination, but if you're working with a 50mm lens without stabilization, you're probably going to be safe if you keep your shutter speed above 1/50.
 

Sir Doom

Member
Just to supplement, but a good rule of thumb is to keep your shutter speed at the same value as your focal length or higher. Obviously it depends on how steady you are and the lens/body combination, but if you're working with a 50mm lens without stabilization, you're probably going to be safe if you keep your shutter speed above 1/50.
So I have 40mm lens

It's 1/40?
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
So I have 40mm lens

It's 1/40?

That's the idea! You might be able to keep it a bit slower if you hold the camera very steady, or you may have to make it a bit faster, but that should be your ballpark for minimum shutter speed at that focal length without any stabilization.
 
So I finally got my first camera 80D

I got a prime lens with no IS. I get camera shakes when I push the shutter, any good advice to minimize this

During daylight, set it to AV, at night, set ISO to auto and shutter to 1/125 until you get the hang of what shutter speed to use manually. You'll get the hang of it. It's not rocket science.
 

TFGB

Member
Some reviews complain about the stiffness of the zoom ring. Your take?

Seems fine here?

I'm used to handling Nikkors so all Lumix lenses feel a little odd to me lol. It's not as smooth as the 100-300, but then the 100-400 feels better engineered.

I wonder if stifness issues have been mentioned by users that tend to push/pull rather than rotate the zoom ring? I'd imagine it would only be a problem for video work.
 
My favorite everyday lens is Canon's 40mm pancake but that can be uncomfortable close for some people. What's the best budget (<$500) lens for portraits? I don't really care about auto focus. Preferably one that can produce nice bokeh.
Don't care about AF?
Id say either the Samyang 85 1.4, or even their 100mm 2.8 macro. The 85mm is a smidge soft wide open, (as most 1.4's are) but is perfect for portrait work. The 100mm is sharper, like razor sharp, but doesn't get quite the same soft bokeh. On the plus side, at 100mm, as long as you get some distance between the subject and the background, you still get really, really great separation. Also it's a fantastic macro lens to boot.

85mm sample:
https://flic.kr/p/Tm26uS

https://flic.kr/p/Jofriv

100mm sample:
https://flic.kr/p/LnheJD

https://flic.kr/p/Lnh7Pr

https://flic.kr/p/NvGgnS

I have others if you search through my flickr, but I'm on mobile ATM.
 

Sir Doom

Member
During daylight, set it to AV, at night, set ISO to auto and shutter to 1/125 until you get the hang of what shutter speed to use manually. You'll get the hang of it. It's not rocket science.
That's the idea! You might be able to keep it a bit slower if you hold the camera very steady, or you may have to make it a bit faster, but that should be your ballpark for minimum shutter speed at that focal length without any stabilization.
Alright thanks
 

selfnoise

Member
My Mefoto Roadtrip just came in the mail, and man am I impressed with this thing for what I paid for it. Small but feels absolutely rock solid. I can't wait to start using it.
 

Futureman

Member
I'm looking at the Sigma 24mm f1.4. I guess also the Canon version but it's like $1,000 more expensive.

I've never used Lens Rentals but I may give it a go. I'm cautious about buying this as I already have the focal length covered with my 14-40mm L lens but it only goes to f4.0. Curious to see how much the 1.4 would effect my shooting and look of the photos.
 

giga

Member
I'm looking at the Sigma 24mm f1.4. I guess also the Canon version but it's like $1,000 more expensive.

I've never used Lens Rentals but I may give it a go. I'm cautious about buying this as I already have the focal length covered with my 14-40mm L lens but it only goes to f4.0. Curious to see how much the 1.4 would effect my shooting and look of the photos.
What are you shooting?
 

Futureman

Member
What are you shooting?

Portraits. I looove my Sigma 50mm but I've been getting a bunch of books out at the library of photographers that include lots of the environment in their portraits. These photographers are all using 8x10 view cameras but I'm thinking around 24mm on my full frame would give a roughly similar look.
 

Futureman

Member
Joel Sternfeld is the particular photographer I'm thinking about.

Apparently he used a 250mm lens on an 8x10 view camera which I guess is roughly equivalent to 35mm on a full frame. Hmm.
 

Futureman

Member
Thinking about it more, I think I'll use my 17-40 only at 24 and 35 for a few days. I'm going to Philly this weekend and may do just that. 35mm is roughly equal to how we see, right? Maybe that's why I like Sternfeld's portraits.
 
Thinking about it more, I think I'll use my 17-40 only at 24 and 35 for a few days. I'm going to Philly this weekend and may do just that. 35mm is roughly equal to how we see, right? Maybe that's why I like Sternfeld's portraits.
I thought we saw in 50mm? 24mm is really weird for portraits. You can make it work but yeesh, I wouldn't buy a prime specifically for that.
 

Futureman

Member
well I've taken portraits at 17mm that I really like. That's more of a niche lens yea but 24 isn't too weird at least for my style/preference (close to subject and getting lots of the environment).

Playing around in my house a bit I do like the 35mm focal length...

I rarely ever get new lenses but I might pull the trigger here sometime soon.
 
Thinking about it more, I think I'll use my 17-40 only at 24 and 35 for a few days. I'm going to Philly this weekend and may do just that. 35mm is roughly equal to how we see, right? Maybe that's why I like Sternfeld's portraits.

I was going to suggest you to use your zoom locked to these focal lengths for a while indeed. At 24mm, f/1.4 will mostly give more light to work with, since you need to be fairly close to your subject to get separation. Focal length of the human eye is debatable (especially since eyes are not very camera-like), but currently is held to be around 43mm (55º horizontal field of view).

I thought we saw in 50mm? 24mm is really weird for portraits.

I wouldn't call Sternfeld's photography portraiture, really. It's more something between street photography and urban landscapes that happen to contain people.
 

japtor

Member
Got any particular examples of the composition/look you're going for? Just curious cause I'd agree that wider isn't necessarily what I'd expect for portraits, and mirroring the point about needing to get closer (again, depends what you're going for though). I experienced the other end of the camera last week when my brother in law was taking a wide shot of me at the Grand Canyon, that lens felt uncomfortably close, heh.

As for myself I'm still on 40mm (or equivalent at least, 20mm on m4/3), might be a weird tweener between the "standard" 35 and 50 but it works in its own way I guess.
 
Well yea but I'm looking for more specific recommendations. Canon's own lenses have a lot of low reviews so maybe a third party one would be better.

Canon's 85 1.8 is a beautiful lens and is widely regarded as one of the best portrait lenses. If you want to spend more money, the Canon 85. 1.2 is godlike. Canon is about to release the 85 1.4 this week. Price unknown.

But you can't go wrong with the 85 1.8 by Canon.
 

Jzero

Member
Canon's 85 1.8 is a beautiful lens and is widely regarded as one of the best portrait lenses. If you want to spend more money, the Canon 85. 1.2 is godlike. Canon is about to release the 85 1.4 this week. Price unknown.

But you can't go wrong with the 85 1.8 by Canon.
Cool thanks I'll do more research on the 1.8. There's no way I'm going to be able to afford their new L lens though lol.
 
I've used it before and it is excellent. It's fairly sharp throughout the frame wide open and becomes razor sharp with loads of contrast once you hit f/2. It's also built like a tank.

excellent. I guess if he can find one cheap enough that'd be an excellent option. The most recent batch of Tamron lenses have been really damn good.
 

Futureman

Member
Got any particular examples of the composition/look you're going for? Just curious cause I'd agree that wider isn't necessarily what I'd expect for portraits, and mirroring the point about needing to get closer (again, depends what you're going for though).

Yes "depends on what you're going for." I want to get into more environmental portraits that show the person but also take in a good look of their physical environment. I do like taking close up "head shot" type portraits as well but I want to be as versatile as possible.

here are two photos from a portrait series I just completed. These are at 17mm on full frame:

XKy1rBCl.jpg


TD4wKUWl.jpg
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
Saw that the guy on Fuji Rumors is claiming the X-T2s could be announced in the next few months - sooner than I expected.

I love my X-T2, probably my favorite camera I've ever owned. It's damn near perfect in my eyes, and has the perfect balance between size, weight, ruggedness, picture quality, sensor size, lens selection, and price. I was pretty sure I was going to hold onto it for at least 4 or 5 years. That was knowing that IBIS was never coming to Fuji's crop sensors.

But man, I don't think I'll be able to resist image stabilization, assuming it's good. That's literally my only complaint about the system other than lack of touch screen and them needing to upgrade all their lenses to be weather resistant.
 
Saw that the guy on Fuji Rumors is claiming the X-T2s could be announced in the next few months - sooner than I expected.

I love my X-T2, probably my favorite camera I've ever owned. It's damn near perfect in my eyes, and has the perfect balance between size, weight, ruggedness, picture quality, sensor size, lens selection, and price. I was pretty sure I was going to hold onto it for at least 4 or 5 years. That was knowing that IBIS was never coming to Fuji's crop sensors.

But man, I don't think I'll be able to resist image stabilization, assuming it's good. That's literally my only complaint about the system other than lack of touch screen and them needing to upgrade all their lenses to be weather resistant.
The only way I'd get the XT2s is if there's some sort of trade in program and I don't have to pay more than $400 for it. I'm perfectly fine without IBIS.
 
Absolutely. An MILC doesn't really have an effect on the image itself; it really just affects how you get to it. The photos you posted are more a result of how you process the end photo, and what lens you're using, than they are a result of the camera that took them (sensor size aside, of course, but that's not a result of MILC vs DSLR)

Well, I just wrote all this as a "for future reference" between DSLR and Mirrorless, so feel free to read over if you want:

Thanks for the info and write-up (and thanks to everyone else who chimed in with their thoughts on my camera choice a few weeks ago...).

I think I've narrowed my choice down to: Fuji X-T20, Lumix G85, or Olympus E-M5 II.

Here's my thought process:

I decided to move away from DSLR's due to their bulky nature and lack of video tools (focus peaking, zebra warnings, etc.). This is despite being attracted to the 77D / 80D's ease-of-use, lens ecosystem, and solid HD video.

I considered the Sony A7 II, but moved away due to its cost, heaviness, lack of articulating touch screen, and supposed 'loudness'. I am also wary of Sony's lens prices. This is despite being attracted to the IBIS, solid HD video, and full-frame sensor.

I considered the Sony a6300, but moved away due to average HD video quality (I know 4K is solid on it), lack of weather sealing, lack of IBIS, lack of articulating touch screen, and again - Sony's expensive lenses.

I considered the Fuji X-T2, but moved away due to cost and lack of IBIS. Everything else about this camera is attractive to me and I am still considering biting the bullet on cost...

So once again it's down to... Fuji X-T20, Lumix G85, or Olympus E-M5 II.


I think the biggest question for me is: should I compromise sensor size (16 MP) and accept M4/3 in exchange for IBIS. Is IBIS worth it? And am I hurting myself by getting stuck in the M4/3 ecosystem?

Or should I take the larger sensor and better HD video quality in exchange for lack of IBIS on the Fuji? Is the extra cash worth it for the X-T2?

Any thoughts would be very welcome.

I am mainly interested in taking portraits (family, friends), casual/enthusiast landscape shots, and occasionally semi-professional (ie, just need solid HD) video. I am not sure how much I will need IBIS. I don't plan on lugging a tri-pod around with me, but would be open to it.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Joel Sternfeld is the particular photographer I'm thinking about.

Apparently he used a 250mm lens on an 8x10 view camera which I guess is roughly equivalent to 35mm on a full frame. Hmm.
The apparent field of view is the same, but 250mm on large format looks different from 35mm on full frame, in terms of perspective and angles. It's hard to explain.
 

Futureman

Member
The apparent field of view is the same, but 250mm on large format looks different from 35mm on full frame, in terms of perspective and angles. It's hard to explain.

yea I get that. I don't want to just copy Sternfeld's style... obviously I should be going for my own thing. I just really dig his type of portraiture and was interested in getting a close approximation with my gear.
 
Thanks for the info and write-up (and thanks to everyone else who chimed in with their thoughts on my camera choice a few weeks ago...).

I think I've narrowed my choice down to: Fuji X-T20, Lumix G85, or Olympus E-M5 II.

Here's my thought process:

I decided to move away from DSLR's due to their bulky nature and lack of video tools (focus peaking, zebra warnings, etc.). This is despite being attracted to the 77D / 80D's ease-of-use, lens ecosystem, and solid HD video.

I considered the Sony A7 II, but moved away due to its cost, heaviness, lack of articulating touch screen, and supposed 'loudness'. I am also wary of Sony's lens prices. This is despite being attracted to the IBIS, solid HD video, and full-frame sensor.

I considered the Sony a6300, but moved away due to average HD video quality (I know 4K is solid on it), lack of weather sealing, lack of IBIS, lack of articulating touch screen, and again - Sony's expensive lenses.

I considered the Fuji X-T2, but moved away due to cost and lack of IBIS. Everything else about this camera is attractive to me and I am still considering biting the bullet on cost...

So once again it's down to... Fuji X-T20, Lumix G85, or Olympus E-M5 II.


I think the biggest question for me is: should I compromise sensor size (16 MP) and accept M4/3 in exchange for IBIS. Is IBIS worth it? And am I hurting myself by getting stuck in the M4/3 ecosystem?

Or should I take the larger sensor and better HD video quality in exchange for lack of IBIS on the Fuji? Is the extra cash worth it for the X-T2?

Any thoughts would be very welcome.

I am mainly interested in taking portraits (family, friends), casual/enthusiast landscape shots, and occasionally semi-professional (ie, just need solid HD) video. I am not sure how much I will need IBIS. I don't plan on lugging a tri-pod around with me, but would be open to it.
How much do you really care about video? For portraits and landscapes sensor size and dynamic range are king. For Panasonic and Olympus they both can share lenses if that helps, though the Panasonic ones are more affordable. The G85 is a pretty good camera and I think it most likely has the best IBIS barring the GH5. The grip on the XT20 is horrible, I honestly think the camera is just too damn small. It's a baby XT2 yes, but it's really just too small and missing the iso knob and impossible to get a vertical grip on it. Pretty much to be succinct you can either get the G85 or just get the XT2. Also look at which lenses you'd think you would want for the cameras and make your decision like that. Olympus has some really good glass, but it's also really expensive for M43rds.
 
How much do you really care about video? For portraits and landscapes sensor size and dynamic range are king. For Panasonic and Olympus they both can share lenses if that helps, though the Panasonic ones are more affordable. The G85 is a pretty good camera and I think it most likely has the best IBIS barring the GH5. The grip on the XT20 is horrible, I honestly think the camera is just too damn small. It's a baby XT2 yes, but it's really just too small and missing the iso knob and impossible to get a vertical grip on it. Pretty much to be succinct you can either get the G85 or just get the XT2. Also look at which lenses you'd think you would want for the cameras and make your decision like that. Olympus has some really good glass, but it's also really expensive for M43rds.

Thanks for the response.

While the primary use of my camera will be for stills, my background is in video, so it's tough for me to compromise video quality in the off-chance I may need it.
 

RuGalz

Member
I am mainly interested in taking portraits (family, friends), casual/enthusiast landscape shots, and occasionally semi-professional (ie, just need solid HD) video. I am not sure how much I will need IBIS. I don't plan on lugging a tri-pod around with me, but would be open to it.

Tough choices but if you are going to be taking picture of still objects more than moving objects, I think IBIS is great. I personally won't invest seriously in a system without IBIS after having it for over a decade. It's one of those things where it's hard to let go once you have it. Not having to whip out that tripod as much as possible, plus more and more places don't allow it unless you have permits, is pretty big deal while traveling. There's 1-1.5 stop difference in high ISO performance between m43 and APS-C and IBIS will let you keep the ISO lower on m43 no problem, more than enough to make up the differences. If you need more high ISO performance to keep shutter speed high for most of the cases, then go for APS-C.

edit: this all kind of assume you are going to be using the primes more than the zooms that have OIS since you care about bulk.
 

Otheradam

Member
Thanks for the response.

While the primary use of my camera will be for stills, my background is in video, so it's tough for me to compromise video quality in the off-chance I may need it.

Fuji is supposed to make some announcements on Sept 7 and there is a rumor of a X-T2s with IS.
 
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