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[Ty4on]

Anyone want too see some burned equipment from this last solar eclipse?
https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/09/rental-camera-gear-destroyed-by-the-solar-eclipse-of-2017/

If you ever use an old rangefinder this can happen to a camera just lying in the sun because you're focusing the light onto the cloth shutter. Remember to use the lens cap!

Crazy how strongly that 400mm focused the sun. I can see burning the sensor from a long exposure, but it burned everything including the mirror mechanism.

 

[giga]

TIL Sigma has an outlet with refurbished items.

The 35 art is just 679: https://www.sigmaphoto.com/35mm-f14-dg-hsm-a-refurbished

 

[JadedWriter]

Anyone want too see some burned equipment from this last solar eclipse?
https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/09/rental-camera-gear-destroyed-by-the-solar-eclipse-of-2017/

Holy shit. I think I shed a little tear for that 600 F4L.

 

[Astral/H3X]

Holy shit. I think I shed a little tear for that 600 F4L.

The insurance plan also doesn't cover neglect, which this counted as.


Oooooooowwwwwwwch.

 

[JadedWriter]

The insurance plan also doesn't cover neglect, which this counted as.


Oooooooowwwwwwwch.

Yeah that's got to be expensive. "Dudes just take my car."

 

[Miniature Kaiju]

The insurance plan also doesn't cover neglect, which this counted as.


Oooooooowwwwwwwch.

Yeah that's got to be expensive. "Dudes just take my car."

They only paid for the repair, though. Since LensRentals does it in-house, parts + cost of labor. It still probably got really expensive for the sensors, but the melted iris assemblies, not so much..

Roger and his team are champs for not making people pay for a completely new lens/camera.

 

[JadedWriter]

They only paid for the repair, though. Since LensRentals does it in-house, parts + cost of labor. It still probably got really expensive for the sensors, but the melted iris assemblies, not so much..

Roger and his team are champs for not making people pay for a completely new lens/camera.

Well that's good, though if you're living pay check to pay check that's still a bit painful.

 

[Daedardus]

Well that's good, though if you're living pay check to pay check that's still a bit painful.

I bet those people don't really rent a $2000+ lens/camera and still be stupid enough to damage it through neglect.

 

[Elfotografoalocado]

I was wondering, with Canon DSLRs and STM lenses, say the pancake primes, is there a way of knowing the distance the lens is focusing at, since they lack a focus scale?
Magic Lantern, maybe?

 

[Ty4on]

I was wondering, with Canon DSLRs and STM lenses, say the pancake primes, is there a way of knowing the distance the lens is focusing at, since they lack a focus scale?
Magic Lantern, maybe?

Maybe. They do apparently transmit distance information used for flash metering.

I've wondered why more cameras don't use that data. On some Sony A-mount cameras you can use this to create a custom focus limiter like 3 meters to 10 meters.

 

[Elfotografoalocado]

Maybe. They do apparently transmit distance information used for flash metering.

I've wondered why more cameras don't use that data. On some Sony A-mount cameras you can use this to create a custom focus limiter like 3 meters to 10 meters.

That's very cool. Shoot a lot from the hip, prefocusing, with a Sigma 17-50 which has a very shitty focus scale. STM lenses having none well that'd be a total no-no. But if ML reports focus distance that'd be amazing for proper zone focusing. (Have yet to install ML, I'm lazy)

 

[Astral/H3X]

Dslr's don't do that?
Though I guess, how would they, your eye is in the vf...

It's good to know they don't need to pay the price of a new lens, but you'd think people would be a lot more careful!

Edit: wait why are you trying to zone focus an stf lens

 

[Ty4on]

Dslr's don't do that?
Though I guess, how would they, your eye is in the vf...

It's good to know they don't need to pay the price of a new lens, but you'd think people would be a lot more careful!

Edit: wait why are you trying to zone focus an stf lens

Modern lenses report a focus distance used for flash metering. It's what the "D" in Nikon AF-D stands for.

That's very cool. Shoot a lot from the hip, prefocusing, with a Sigma 17-50 which has a very shitty focus scale. STM lenses having none well that'd be a total no-no. But if ML reports focus distance that'd be amazing for proper zone focusing. (Have yet to install ML, I'm lazy)

The DoF screen seems to be the closest to a focus distance window in ML

 

[Astral/H3X]

Modern lenses report a focus distance used for flash metering. It's what the "D" in Nikon AF-D stands for.

The DoF screen seems to be the closest to a focus distance window in ML

Was more referring to electronically displaying focus distance when taking the shot :x

 

[Ty4on]

Was more referring to electronically displaying focus distance when taking the shot :x

Just needs a software change

The Contax G series are the only cameras I know of with a focus scale in the viewfinder. Lenses had no markings and no focus ring even. Instead you used a separate focus dial with markings for manual focus. I've always wanted to try one of those.

 

[Prologue]

1. What is your budget budget?

1k-1.5k

2. Main purpose of the camera?

Macro scene? I'm a dental student, would like to experiment with dental photography to help with dental education and case acceptance


3. What form factor is most appealing to you?

Not too big? Not an issue really. Canon Rebel SL1 looks cute though.

4. Will you be investing in the camera? (buying more stuff for it later)

of course

5. Any cameras you've used before or liked?

iPhone occasionally??

All of this seems really intimidating. How is the learning curve?

 

[Miniature Kaiju]

You'll definitely need a macro lens with some decent working distance, like the Canon 100mm f/2.8 or the Nikon Micro-NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED.

You'll also probably need a ring flash to get even lighting. Either that or a bracketed flash setup.

 

[XBP]

So I was extremely stupid today and I'm panicking right now that I might have damaged my camera's sensor.

So I went out to take some pictures today and wasn't careful when changing my lenses. After coming back home I realized that there was dust on the camera's sensor. Being the Idiot that I am, I tried cleaning it with a electric air blower that I use on my PC. The problem is that it didn't remove the few specs of dust on the sensor and instead the entire sensor is now covered with 25-30 particles.

Now the dust is only visible at F11 and onwards and clearly visible at F22+. I didn't have any attachments on the electric blower (data vac) so the air wasn't as focused on the sensor but it was still too much.

Basically I'm worried that I might have damaged my sensor but I have no idea if I did or not. I took these pictures in my living room. Can someone take a quick look at them and see if they see anything out of the ordinary? The light was bad in the room so thats why they are underexposed.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsm3qRSng

 

[Astral/H3X]

So I was extremely stupid today and I'm panicking right now that I might have damaged my camera's sensor.

So I went out to take some pictures today and wasn't careful when changing my lenses. After coming back home I realized that there was dust on the camera's sensor. Being the Idiot that I am, I tried cleaning it with a electric air blower that I use on my PC. The problem is that it didn't remove the few specs of dust on the sensor and instead the entire sensor is now covered with 25-30 particles.

Now the dust is only visible at F11 and onwards and clearly visible at F22+. I didn't have any attachments on the electric blower (data vac) so the air wasn't as focused on the sensor but it was still too much.

Basically I'm worried that I might have damaged my sensor but I have no idea if I did or not. I took these pictures in my living room. Can someone take a quick look at them and see if they see anything out of the ordinary? The light was bad in the room so thats why they are underexposed.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsm3qRSng

In all likelihood you've just put more crap on the sensor. Get some sensor swabs and do it properly this time and hope for the best.

As long as you didn't tilt the spray can upside down or didn't spray it for a second elsewhere, you should be fine.

 

[Prologue]

You'll definitely need a macro lens with some decent working distance, like the Canon 100mm f/2.8 or the Nikon Micro-NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED.

You'll also probably need a ring flash to get even lighting. Either that or a bracketed flash setup.

Seems to be about right from everything I read so far, those 100mm lenses are expensive
.


What about the learning curve?

 

[Miniature Kaiju]

Seems to be about right from everything I read so far, those 100mm lenses are expensive
.

What about the learning curve?

Yeah, dedicated macro equipment gets really expensive, really fast. Generally I'd advise people starting with macro stuff to go for the other options (extension tubes, reversed lenses, stacked lenses), but those won't cut it with your use case, since you absolutely need the working distance (you probably don't want to be virtually sticking the camera inside someone's mouth) and ease of use.

I have no experience with dental photography (other than being on the other side of it, actually, thanks orthodontics), so I can't speak for doing macro specifically in this context. Considering your subject, you're not really trying to be artistic, rather than documentational. With proper equipment you should be able to use a really small aperture to get a larger depth of field (i.e. the area of image that is in sharp focus). A ring flash takes care of the amount of light to make it handholdable. Shouldn't be too hard.

 

[japtor]

Seems to be about right from everything I read so far, those 100mm lenses are expensive
.


What about the learning curve?

If you get a mirrorless camera you can pretty much adapt any lens afaik, so potentially you could get some old nice macro lens for cheap or something, albeit probably losing niceties like auto focus.

Learning curve wise...depends how far you want to take it I guess, and how much you actually need to know in whatever timeframe. Whatever auto modes can take fine photos, and if you need more control you can increase it in steps as you want go. Like between full auto and full manual there's a few options to work with.

Realistically when it comes to the basics there's not a huge amount of things to understand conceptually (ISO, shutter, aperture, exposure?), and they're not terribly complex either. I think the bigger curve is learning a particular camera's controls (and menus and customizations) and how to adjust that stuff on the fly.

 

[Otheradam]

In all likelihood you've just put more crap on the sensor. Get some sensor swabs and do it properly this time and hope for the best.

As long as you didn't tilt the spray can upside down or didn't spray it for a second elsewhere, you should be fine.

You're not supposed to use compressed air on camera equipment. It blows out a layer of stuff that dries really quickly. You can see this if you blow the air very close to glass. You should get a electronic sensor cleaning brush and try that. If it doesn't remove the specs, you might have damaged the sensor.

 

[Astral/H3X]

If you get a mirrorless camera you can pretty much adapt any lens afaik, so potentially you could get some old nice macro lens for cheap or something, albeit probably losing niceties like auto focus.

Learning curve wise...depends how far you want to take it I guess, and how much you actually need to know in whatever timeframe. Whatever auto modes can take fine photos, and if you need more control you can increase it in steps as you want go. Like between full auto and full manual there's a few options to work with.

Realistically when it comes to the basics there's not a huge amount of things to understand conceptually (ISO, shutter, aperture, exposure?), and they're not terribly complex either. I think the bigger curve is learning a particular camera's controls (and menus and customizations) and how to adjust that stuff on the fly.

I would *definitely* recommend mirrorless with vintage glass. Save yourself a lot of money in case it doesn't turn out the way you expect. Also the advantageous traits of DSLRs will be moot for this sort of scenario. I don't think using the VF would be ideal for dentistry work where you have articulating arms for everything, and battery life won't be a concern either. Additionally, the superior screen interfaces of mirrorless cameras will be a huge plus when trying to use the camera at an awkward angle (unless you want to arch over the patient lol).
I would also recommend staying away from the 100mm options -- as you aren't photographing bugs, the extra working distance won't be any help, but it will shrink the focused area, which would be a disadvantage. Look for a 50mm macro, and mount it to an ASPC mirrorless. That's my recommendation.

You're not supposed to use compressed air on camera equipment. It blows out a layer of stuff that dries really quickly. You can see this if you blow the air very close to glass. You should get a electronic sensor cleaning brush and try that. If it doesn't remove the specs, you might have damaged the sensor.

You definitely aren't supposed to, for sure, but I'm trying to avoid bringing up the worst case scenario.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Realistically when it comes to the basics there's not a huge amount of things to understand conceptually (ISO, shutter, aperture, exposure?), and they're not terribly complex either. I think the bigger curve is learning a particular camera's controls (and menus and customizations) and how to adjust that stuff on the fly.

I don't know... I had a decent amount of trouble wrapping my head around how shutter speed and aperture work and affect things like motion blur and depth of field. Throw in different sensor sizes and how they affect focal length and depth of field and it all becomes rather confusing.

It took me dozens of hours of reading, watching videos, and actually experimenting with different cameras to finally figure it all out.

 

[killroy87]

Hey all! First time popping into this thread. I'm looking to get a camera for my partner for his bday, and am wavering between the Sony A6000, and the Fujifilm X-A3.

I want to keep it to a pretty small form factor, but would like to keep the interchangeable lenses, and these are the two that have stood out. He's a beginner, so I don't want to go much more expensive than these, but I also want to get something good enough that he can grow into and will remain worthwhile as his skills grow. I assume he'll mostly be shooting still life, environments, etc. Won't be much need for action shots.

Does anyone have a recommendation between these two? I've been doing some research on my own, and it's looking like the Sony is coming out ahead, with more capability for action shots, good autofocus, and a viewfinder.

If anyone has any advice, or recommendations of cameras I may not have seen yet, I'd love to know!

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Hey all! First time popping into this thread. I'm looking to get a camera for my partner for his bday, and am wavering between the Sony A6000, and the Fujifilm X-A3.

I want to keep it to a pretty small form factor, but would like to keep the interchangeable lenses, and these are the two that have stood out. He's a beginner, so I don't want to go much more expensive than these, but I also want to get something good enough that he can grow into and will remain worthwhile as his skills grow. I assume he'll mostly be shooting still life, environments, etc. Won't be much need for action shots.

Does anyone have a recommendation between these two? I've been doing some research on my own, and it's looking like the Sony is coming out ahead, with more capability for action shots, good autofocus, and a viewfinder.

If anyone has any advice, or recommendations of cameras I may not have seen yet, I'd love to know!

I would go for the a6000 for sure. It's quite a bit more capable despite being older. The X-A3 really doesn't have many of the benefits that people typically see in a Fuji camera and is a super budget model.

It really comes down to which system you see yourself or your partner investing in if he or she continues the hobby. The X-A3 is definitely the worse body with inferior capabilities, but if you see yourself upgrading and sticking with Fuji, then it *might* be a good entry model. I would try to find a used/refurbished X-T1 or X-T10 as a minimum, though.

 

[JadedWriter]

Hey all! First time popping into this thread. I'm looking to get a camera for my partner for his bday, and am wavering between the Sony A6000, and the Fujifilm X-A3.

I want to keep it to a pretty small form factor, but would like to keep the interchangeable lenses, and these are the two that have stood out. He's a beginner, so I don't want to go much more expensive than these, but I also want to get something good enough that he can grow into and will remain worthwhile as his skills grow. I assume he'll mostly be shooting still life, environments, etc. Won't be much need for action shots.

Does anyone have a recommendation between these two? I've been doing some research on my own, and it's looking like the Sony is coming out ahead, with more capability for action shots, good autofocus, and a viewfinder.

If anyone has any advice, or recommendations of cameras I may not have seen yet, I'd love to know!

Why are you comparing Fuji's bottom tier budget camera with Sony's at the time top of the line crop sensor mirrorless? At least recommend the XT10 compared to the A6000, since technically the Fuji equivalent is the XT1. Also prices drop significantly when you go used or refurbished.

 

[killroy87]

Why are you comparing Fuji's bottom tier budget camera with Sony's at the time top of the line crop sensor mirrorless? At least recommend the XT10 compared to the A6000, since technically the Fuji equivalent is the XT1. Also prices drop significantly when you go used or refurbished.

If you couldn't tell, I don't really know what the fuck I'm talking about.

Thus me asking for help

I would go for the a6000 for sure. It's quite a bit more capable despite being older. The X-A3 really doesn't have many of the benefits that people typically see in a Fuji camera and is a super budget model.

It really comes down to which system you see yourself or your partner investing in if he or she continues the hobby. The X-A3 is definitely the worse body with inferior capabilities, but if you see yourself upgrading and sticking with Fuji, then it *might* be a good entry model. I would try to find a used/refurbished X-T1 or X-T10 as a minimum, though.

Ah, I see. I didn't realize the gulf in quality between the two was so big, since here in Canada at least the Fuji actually costs a bit more.

I'll look into the X-T10 then, and see what that's got going for it. Thanks!

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Why are you comparing Fuji's bottom tier budget camera with Sony's at the time top of the line crop sensor mirrorless? At least recommend the XT10 compared to the A6000, since technically the Fuji equivalent is the XT1. Also prices drop significantly when you go used or refurbished.

He's probably just comparing what's available new at that price point, considering it's going to be a gift. He obviously doesn't know a ton about cameras and which models are equivalent to those in other systems since he's in here asking for advice!

 

[opticalmace]

Why are you comparing Fuji's bottom tier budget camera with Sony's at the time top of the line crop sensor mirrorless? At least recommend the XT10 compared to the A6000, since technically the Fuji equivalent is the XT1. Also prices drop significantly when you go used or refurbished.

I assume he's comparing new products only around the same price... can you even find the XT10 new anymore?

 

[JadedWriter]

I assume he's comparing new products only around the same price... can you even find the XT10 new anymore?

It's been discontinued, but it's not impossible to find one new if you look around.

If you couldn't tell, I don't really know what the fuck I'm talking about.

Thus me asking for help



Ah, I see. I didn't realize the gulf in quality between the two was so big, since here in Canada at least the Fuji actually costs a bit more.

I'll look into the X-T10 then, and see what that's got going for it. Thanks!

It really depends on what your willing to spend. I consider the Fuji's overall better built, but the Sony's are supposedly superior spec wise. Even the XT1 isn't super expensive body only on Ebay, just depends.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

It's been discontinued, but it's not impossible to find one new if you look around.

It really depends on what your willing to spend. I consider the Fuji's overall better built, but the Sony's are supposedly superior spec wise. Even the XT1 isn't super expensive body only on Ebay, just depends.

There are certainly tiers.

The X-T1 and X-T2 (and the Pro line and other fixed-lens equivalents) have top build quality. Everything assembled in Japan and made with quality materials. Things definitely take a hit when you go to the X-T10 and X-T20, but are still good. Go below that, though, and build quality gets sacrificed for sure.

 

[killroy87]

I'd ideally not like to spend more than $800 CAD for body and stock lens. I'm looking to help him get into the hobby, not pay for him to be pro haha

 

[Deleted member 17706]

I'd ideally not like to spend more than $800 CAD for body and stock lens. I'm looking to help him get into the hobby, not pay for him to be pro haha

It's hard to argue with the a6000 as a beginner camera. It's extremely capable for the price. There's a reason it's the best selling mirrorless camera (digital camera?) ever.

 

[killroy87]

It's hard to argue with the a6000 as a beginner camera. It's extremely capable for the price. There's a reason it's the best selling mirrorless camera (digital camera?) ever.

Fair enough! That was the front runner anyway, a lot of what I'd read said it was incredible for the value. I just didn't know if it had been surpassed in that category, as it's a few years old.

I might just go with that then. Thanks guys

 

[XBP]

In all likelihood you've just put more crap on the sensor. Get some sensor swabs and do it properly this time and hope for the best.

As long as you didn't tilt the spray can upside down or didn't spray it for a second elsewhere, you should be fine.

You're not supposed to use compressed air on camera equipment. It blows out a layer of stuff that dries really quickly. You can see this if you blow the air very close to glass. You should get a electronic sensor cleaning brush and try that. If it doesn't remove the specs, you might have damaged the sensor.

I didn't use a spray can though. I used this thing

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...Vac_ED_500_DataVac_Electric_Duster_Model.html

But without the extension so that the air pressure from the thing isn't too strong. Ive been on various website where people have used this to clean their sensors but Im still not sure if the pressure from the sensor was a bit too much or not.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Fair enough! That was the front runner anyway, a lot of what I'd read said it was incredible for the value. I just didn't know if it had been surpassed in that category, as it's a few years old.

I might just go with that then. Thanks guys

It hasn't at that price point. The newer models have 4K recording, in-body image stabilization, better auto-focus, better OLED viewfinder, etc. but sensor and image quality-wise, there haven't been major improvements since the a6000.

The only thing it's really weak at is action photography, although it can shoot at 11 fps. It's just that the continuous auto-focus subject tracking is not what you would want if shooting sports and quick moving objects is your primary focus.

It's got a decent amount of controls that are extremely customizable, so if your partner wants to learn how to shoot in manual, which I absolutely recommend they do, then it won't be terribly difficult to change the necessary settings on the fly.

 

[killroy87]

It hasn't at that price point. The newer models have 4K recording, in-body image stabilization, better auto-focus, better OLED viewfinder, etc. but sensor and image quality-wise, there haven't been major improvements since the a6000.

The only thing it's really weak at is action photography, although it can shoot at 11 fps. It's just that the continuous auto-focus subject tracking is not what you would want if shooting sports and quick moving objects is your primary focus.

It's got a decent amount of controls that are extremely customizable, so if your partner wants to learn how to shoot in manual, which I absolutely recommend they do, then it won't be terribly difficult to change the necessary settings on the fly.

Awesome, thanks so much!

 

[Miniature Kaiju]

I would also recommend staying away from the 100mm options -- as you aren't photographing bugs, the extra working distance won't be any help,

To get 1:2 magnification with a 50mm, the focusing distance (i.e. from the sensor to the subject) is 23cm. That will put the subject some 10cm from the front element. To get 1:1, it falls to 20cm. In contrast, a 100mm will give him 45cm and 40cm, respectively.

Keep in mind that quite a bit of the time he'll be dealing with a folded optical path - using mirrors to get the insides of the mouth, what increases the required working distance. That would mean the 50mm would quite literally be glued to the subjects face - a bit uncomfortable. That's to say nothing about lighting.

it will shrink the focused area, which would be a disadvantage.

That's actually wrong. The physics of it are complex, but given a magnification and an aperture, you'll get the same DoF regardless of focal length (kinda, sorta, there's also pupil magnification, but it can mostly be ignored, here). In this case we're talking about half a centimeter of DoF @ f/8 for either lens, to get 1:1.

 

[JadedWriter]

Fair enough! That was the front runner anyway, a lot of what I'd read said it was incredible for the value. I just didn't know if it had been surpassed in that category, as it's a few years old.

I might just go with that then. Thanks guys

It's great at that price range yeah. Personally I'd get an XT1 over it because I really like the controls, but for an entry level mirrorless it's still pretty damn good. I'm an XT2 person though, but if you're on a budget and need something good that's not micro four thirds then I guess the A6000 is your default camera.

 

[killroy87]

It's great at that price range yeah. Personally I'd get an XT1 over it because I really like the controls, but for an entry level mirrorless it's still pretty damn good. I'm an XT2 person though, but if you're on a budget and need something good that's not micro four thirds then I guess the A6000 is your default camera.

Thanks for the info!

Quick question; aHow do these things do in cooler weather? I'm in Vancouver, where at the coldest it generally hovers around 5 degrees Celsius or so (about 40 F), so not terribly cold. Any reason that that would harm the camera?

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Thanks for the info!

Quick question; aHow do these things do in cooler weather? I'm in Vancouver, where at the coldest it generally hovers around 5 degrees Celsius or so (about 40 F), so not terribly cold. Any reason that that would harm the camera?

Absolutely no concern at all in terms of temperatures that humans can handle.

 

[Miniature Kaiju]

How do these things do in cooler weather? I'm in Vancouver, where at the coldest it generally hovers around 5 degrees Celsius or so (about 40 F), so not terribly cold. Any reason that that would harm the camera?

The camera will be fine. Batteries discharge considerably faster the colder it gets, though, so you need to be mindful of that if shooting outside when it's cold. Get spares and keep them warm in your body.

 

[Deleted member 17706]

Definitely get at least one spare, regardless. Battery life on mirrorless cameras, excluding the new A9, is not very good.

 

[JadedWriter]

Thanks for the info!

Quick question; aHow do these things do in cooler weather? I'm in Vancouver, where at the coldest it generally hovers around 5 degrees Celsius or so (about 40 F), so not terribly cold. Any reason that that would harm the camera?

Get some spares, but the cameras should work. Probably should get something weather sealed, but should be fine regardless, just don't drop them in snow.

 

[HazySaiyan]

Hey guys, first time posting here. Wanting to get my first proper camera (mirrorless) and looking at MFT systems, just wondering how the focal length works? Am I right in assuming you basically double it to get an 'equivalent' for a full-frame sensor? Would that be the same if I used a vintage lens?

Sorry if it sounds dumb and I don't make sense, I am still very much new to this. Opened an Instagram account and have been enjoying taking pictures with my phone, but I think it's about time I step my game up a bit.

Thanks!

 

[JadedWriter]

Hey guys, first time posting here. Wanting to get my first proper camera (mirrorless) and looking at MFT systems, just wondering how the focal length works? Am I right in assuming you basically double it to get an 'equivalent' for a full-frame sensor? Would that be the same if I used a vintage lens?

Sorry if it sounds dumb and I don't make sense, I am still very much new to this. Opened an Instagram account and have been enjoying taking pictures with my phone, but I think it's about time I step my game up a bit.

Thanks!

Yes you times it buy two, I think that works for vintage lenses as well. What camera do you plan on getting. I think the Olympus cameras have a more accurate AF system than Panasonic's.

 

[HazySaiyan]

Yes you times it buy two, I think that works for vintage lenses as well. What camera do you plan on getting. I think the Olympus cameras have a more accurate AF system than Panasonic's.

I'm not sure actually, toss up between the Olympus EM-10 Mk II, Panasonic GX80, G7, or the Sony A6000 on the APS-C side. Just looking for good deals etc. Totally open to buying used.

EDIT: should add that it ideally should have a viewfinder, tried some at Jessops and PC World and the viewfinder feels a lot more intuitive and comfortable

 

[Astral/H3X]

Hey guys, first time posting here. Wanting to get my first proper camera (mirrorless) and looking at MFT systems, just wondering how the focal length works? Am I right in assuming you basically double it to get an 'equivalent' for a full-frame sensor? Would that be the same if I used a vintage lens?

Sorry if it sounds dumb and I don't make sense, I am still very much new to this. Opened an Instagram account and have been enjoying taking pictures with my phone, but I think it's about time I step my game up a bit.

Thanks!

Correct, and yes it does apply to vintage lenses. A lens doesn't know or care what's behind it, new or old.
So if people say to get a "50mm equivalent", and you're using a MFT camera, you'll be looking for a 25mm lens. A 50mm on MFT would produce similar photos as a 100mm would on full frame, etc.


The a6000 is a fantastic camera, and is APSC as opposed to being MFT, which means a larger sensor, and all the benefits that come with that.
That also means it'll be a bit larger as a camera, and any camera will be a considerable step up from a phone, but just fyi