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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

snaffles

Member
Is 1764 a good price for a Canon 5d mark iii used with a shutter count of 2700 of should I patiently wait for the mark iv to knock down prices further?

That looks like a fairly standard price for them to sell for used on eBay so it isn't really any great bargain if you don't actually need it right now. I wouldn't really be that concerned with shutter counts.
 

Mr. Hyde

Member
That looks like a fairly standard price for them to sell for used on eBay so it isn't really any great bargain if you don't actually need it right now. I wouldn't really be that concerned with shutter counts.

Yeah I will just wait a bit. I am doing portraits fine with the 70D. I am not planning to shoot weddings until the fall so I can patiently wait to see what canon is doing. I kept trying to justify the 6d but there's quite a few features I prefer on the 5d such as weather sealing, dual card slots and some other things.
 

FStop7

Banned
Get a Peak Design strap. Affordable, and most importantly, easily and quickly removable.

I guess I'm nervous about attaching it to a strap by little bits of string, but that's probably just new camera nerves anyway, haha.

I got the Peak SL-2 for my Xpan and it's _nice_. The cord on the anchors is made of very tough nylon, it's not going anywhere. I really love the strap. It's not subtle - the strap is very wide and it has two large buckles, but it's awesome at distributing the weight of a relatively heavy camera across your shoulder. I barely even notice the camera is there when walking around.
 

LProtag

Member
I got the Peak SL-2 for my Xpan and it's _nice_. The cord on the anchors is made of very tough nylon, it's not going anywhere. I really love the strap. It's not subtle - the strap is very wide and it has two large buckles, but it's awesome at distributing the weight of a relatively heavy camera across your shoulder. I barely even notice the camera is there when walking around.

I guess I can get the light, since this camera isn't that heavy.
 

LProtag

Member
Get the leash in your case IMO. I have both Slide and Leash, I don't have issue using my DSLR on the leash when I'm not using it my X-M1. But the leash keeps the bulk down quite a bit.

Alright. Thanks! Now I'll be able to take it outside this weekend (thanks Amazon Prime) without freaking out, haha.
 
Yeah, all three are great. I've got the Leash, and its AWESOME, but I can totally see myself picking up the Slide Lite.

I used to not even use a strap because of how much of a pain in the ass I is to take it off for tripod work, but now I do thanks to the leash. Well, I also have the capture, so... I adapt!
Also I really want the capture lens.

It's also worth noting that the PD straps are QUITE a bit more versatile than the stock straps. They glide across your clothing so they don't snag, and since they adjust length so easy its pretty easy to get in the habit of adjusting it depending on whether you're wearing a coat, having it at your side vs in front of you, etc. They are awesome.
 

Ty4on

Member
$50 per roll seems so crazy, but... the price quote I got from Richard Photo Lab to develop and scan 3 rolls of 35mm film just happened to be $147. With an 8 to 10 day turnaround time! And in reality, the price may have been higher because my film was shot on an Xpan - certain labs charge more for this.

A "press kit" of C-41 chemicals is $30 and is rated for 12 rolls but apparently can last for up to 24. I already have the D-76 chems, I think they were also around $30.

An Epson V850 scanner is $925. It's a big expense but it would literally pay for itself in less than 20 rolls vs. outsourcing to a lab.

The thing I like about film is that the pleasing color characteristics of something like Portra 400 just can't be replicated digitally. I've tried. And film offers so much more latitude when it comes to dynamic range, particularly with highlights. I think digital will get there, someday. But it's got a long way to go and with a vanishing consumer market, it seems like the only company still pushing ahead with sensor tech is Sony. Nikon and Canon seem pretty checked out.
First of, 50 per roll, damn. I thought I had it bad with 30. I never dared check what it'd be with high quality scans though.

When I got into photography a couple of years back I was looking into digital for a long time. In that time I started shooting on my mom's old Mamiya (35mm) and eventually started looking into film for price reasons. While I could maybe get an OK body with my budget, lenses that I wanted were really expensive, especially anything wider than 50mm eq and somewhat fast.

I know a lot about the 5D mk1 because it fixes some of those issues. Canon EF has some sleepers and the 5D is a pro body with the controls I want. The thing that held me back though was as you said the look and the experience of shooting film. Not just the slowing down (though that is a big part), but also knowing that I just made a physical imprint on the roll inside my camera. I have the same fascination with vinyl knowing that the audio waves I listen to are printed on that disc and not interpretated by anything.

I don't have a scanner yet (hopefully it'll be here by March, I held back buying thinking prices would come down, but they kept rising) and can't make any direct comparisons myself, but I like the look too. Hard to say why, but like you said with dynamic range highlights are never harsh looking. I also like the raw look when there's zero opportunity for the camera to sharpen it or do noise reduction.
I should stop buying/looking for film cameras because I already have four bodies and just five lenses, but I like that I can build a camera collection for next to nothing and use old cameras like they were ment to be used. And even quite expensive stuff like the Xpan or even some old Leicas are not that expenses in the grand scheme of things. Such a specialized digital camera would never be ~1000$.

Sorry it's so unstructured. Written on mobile using swipe so there are probably a bunch of mistakes I've missed.
 

Donos

Member
Can't believe they didn't update the kit lens...............................

yeah, thought i read some rumor awhile back about new kit lens.

Only interesting thing out of the A6300 reveal is that thr A6000 is going to get cheaper now soon.
 

Groof

Junior Member
Is it just me or is the a6300 a textured matte finish instead of the glossy one on the a6000?

Also how did they go from 6000 to 6300 when the a5000 went to 5100
 
Is it just me or is the a6300 a textured matte finish instead of the glossy one on the a6000?

Also how did they go from 6000 to 6300 when the a5000 went to 5100

They probably named it 6300 to justify the insane price. It's not the 6100, and not the 6200, this is the new 6300! See? Totally worth it guys! $$$
 

Aurongel

Member
Is it just me or is the a6300 a textured matte finish instead of the glossy one on the a6000?

Also how did they go from 6000 to 6300 when the a5000 went to 5100

I believe the new model is made of magnesium alloy instead of the glossier plastic of the previous one. It looks like it'll have a similar finish as Nikon/Canons do.

Can't believe they didn't update the kit lens...............................

This x1000.

The kit lens for every Sony camera I've ever used was significantly worse than any kit options from any other manufacturer. The powerzoom pack-in is in contention for the worst lens I've ever used.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
First of, 50 per roll, damn. I thought I had it bad with 30. I never dared check what it'd be with high quality scans though.

When I got into photography a couple of years back I was looking into digital for a long time. In that time I started shooting on my mom's old Mamiya (35mm) and eventually started looking into film for price reasons. While I could maybe get an OK body with my budget, lenses that I wanted were really expensive, especially anything wider than 50mm eq and somewhat fast.

I know a lot about the 5D mk1 because it fixes some of those issues. Canon EF has some sleepers and the 5D is a pro body with the controls I want. The thing that held me back though was as you said the look and the experience of shooting film. Not just the slowing down (though that is a big part), but also knowing that I just made a physical imprint on the roll inside my camera. I have the same fascination with vinyl knowing that the audio waves I listen to are printed on that disc and not interpretated by anything.

I don't have a scanner yet (hopefully it'll be here by March, I held back buying thinking prices would come down, but they kept rising) and can't make any direct comparisons myself, but I like the look too. Hard to say why, but like you said with dynamic range highlights are never harsh looking. I also like the raw look when there's zero opportunity for the camera to sharpen it or do noise reduction.
I should stop buying/looking for film cameras because I already have four bodies and just five lenses, but I like that I can build a camera collection for next to nothing and use old cameras like they were ment to be used. And even quite expensive stuff like the Xpan or even some old Leicas are not that expenses in the grand scheme of things. Such a specialized digital camera would never be ~1000$.

Sorry it's so unstructured. Written on mobile using swipe so there are probably a bunch of mistakes I've missed.

you guys are both getting ripped off. The lab i use in houston for medium format film was 10 bucks per roll. And they usually had it that day or the next. oh you guys are getting them scanned too. Definitely do that at home. Especially if your shooting a lot.
 

Ty4on

Member
you guys are both getting ripped off. The lab i use in houston for medium format film was 10 bucks per roll. And they usually had it that day or the next. oh you guys are getting them scanned too. Definitely do that at home. Especially if your shooting a lot.

I've been to a couple of places that would do it for 10 bucks a roll without any scans or prints. Either way I have to get them shipped so it's still a lot cheaper at home.
One trend I hope doesn't continue is the rise in prices and cheaper film being harder to get. I kinda wish color came in bulk.
The kit lens for every Sony camera I've ever used was significantly worse than any kit options from any other manufacturer. The powerzoom pack-in is in contention for the worst lens I've ever used.
I looked at an A6000 with that 16-50 today to check out the focus tracking. Made some bursts and at the end shut it off and put the lens cap on just as the lens started retracting...
It's a weird combination and even weirder that Sony announced FE lenses when the E mount sorely lacks options in the standard zoom range.

What struck me was how weird the announcement felt. The A6300 doesn't look bad, but it felt like there were more buzzwords than usual like 0.05s AF. The video showcasing the lenses was especially weird with these vague statements like bokeh transition combined with very technical statements like 50 lp/mm. And there was a good message (Sony has struggled with variance in the past), but presented in a very cheesy way.
Maybe it's just momentarily, but the lens pages for the announced lenses still just show 10 and 30 lp/mm graphs despite them bragging about 50 lp/mm being the baseline (whatever that means).
 
Question-

Should I grab a 50mm 1.7 lens for my K1000? My cat broke the only lens I had last year.

Or should I grab a Canon AE1? I already have an FD 50mm 1.4.

The price is the pretty much the same I'm just not sure which route I should go.
 
Question-

Should I grab a 50mm 1.7 lens for my K1000? My cat broke the only lens I had last year.

Or should I grab a Canon AE1? I already have an FD 50mm 1.4.

The price is the pretty much the same I'm just not sure which route I should go.

Both mounts are pretty bad at adopting other MF lens. The K mount has the longest flange distant. The FD mount is better but its still not common enough.

Depends on your budget you are probably better off find a clean body+lens combine of any manual SLR on ebay.

If all you need is a 50/1.7-2.0 lens you can get it from any manual mount. You should decide on the mount base on your next 2 lens or budget of next 2 years.
 
Question-

Should I grab a 50mm 1.7 lens for my K1000? My cat broke the only lens I had last year.

Or should I grab a Canon AE1? I already have an FD 50mm 1.4.

The price is the pretty much the same I'm just not sure which route I should go.

Don't know how much of a deal it is to you, but the AE1 has features that the K1000 doesn't have, and even then there are other Canon bodies that have even more features beyond that. Personally, as a person who's used to digital, I'd be going for something with a few more automatic features.
 

Ty4on

Member
Don't know how much of a deal it is to you, but the AE1 has features that the K1000 doesn't have, and even then there are other Canon bodies that have even more features beyond that. Personally, as a person who's used to digital, I'd be going for something with a few more automatic features.

Yeah, I'd go for the AE1 as well unless you really loved your K1000 and 50/1.7 combo.

I'm not sure which 50/1.7 you got, but I part of the reason I'd go AE1 is how much easier the 50/1.7 is to find cheap than a 50/1.4. I think the M model is especially common, I see Pentax MX, ME and ME Supers etc. with them being sold everywhere and then you get a free body :p
Maybe not free body with the MX, but the ME despite it's shortcomings is a really good looking camera and the ISO dial goes to 6 for when your subject is heavily backlit.
 
Don't know how much of a deal it is to you, but the AE1 has features that the K1000 doesn't have, and even then there are other Canon bodies that have even more features beyond that. Personally, as a person who's used to digital, I'd be going for something with a few more automatic features.
I was planning to shoot fully manual. All I really need is a light meter in the viewfinder. The AE1 sounds like a nice choice in case I do ever want something with shutter priority.
Both mounts are pretty bad at adopting other MF lens. The K mount has the longest flange distant. The FD mount is better but its still not common enough.

Depends on your budget you are probably better off find a clean body+lens combine of any manual SLR on ebay.

If all you need is a 50/1.7-2.0 lens you can get it from any manual mount. You should decide on the mount base on your next 2 lens or budget of next 2 years.
I don't plan to buy any more lenses after the 50. Just considering dabbling in film again.

I'll sit on it and check out some other stuff that could compare for the price.
 
I scooped up an EOS M for under 500 a while back. It's pretty much a mirrorless version of the 650D.

I use it primarily for video production and its pretty impressive for the price and size. It also has a Magic Lantern port which gives it a lot more features such as zebras, shooting raw, and FPS Override options
 
I was planning to shoot fully manual. All I really need is a light meter in the viewfinder. The AE1 sounds like a nice choice in case I do ever want something with shutter priority.

I don't plan to buy any more lenses after the 50. Just considering dabbling in film again.

I'll sit on it and check out some other stuff that could compare for the price.

Why don't you just get the cheapest late model AF Pentax body. ZX-30, ZX-50 etc. Get one that come with the battery because at this point the battery is more expensive than the body.

There are some ZX and MZ battery grip you can use AA battery too.
 

Ty4on

Member
Why don't you just get the cheapest late model AF Pentax body. ZX-30, ZX-50 etc. Get one that come with the battery because at this point the battery is more expensive than the body.

There are some ZX and MZ battery grip you can use AA battery too.
I don't have experience with those, but whenever I look at info on those Pentaxes I get scared at how cheaply made they are and both lack dual dials. I always find stories of them breaking online. The ZX30 also couldn't use old lenses while the ZX50 wouldn't meter properly:
The MZ/30/ZX-30 was the first SLR out of only two that completely lost the ability to use M and K lenses. The shutter will simply not fire with these lenses.

Read more at: http://www.pentaxforums.com/camerareviews/pentax-mz-30-zx-30.html#ixzz3zICrZEc6
The higher end Pentaxes of the time are sadly a lot more expensive. I think the top of the line model approaches 500$ in good condition. I'd rather look at other brands unless I found one of those Pentaxes with an ok lens for next to nothing. Many higher end cameras also used AA batteries natively and they aren't that expensive. The Nikon F100 seems to be around 100$ and was the second highest end camera after the F5.

Edit: How could I forget the tank if you wanted a lot of automation, but without AF:
t90front.jpg

One issue is no native support for leader out film rewind which a lot of higher end SLRs had. The Minolta 7 even had a custom function to return to a specific frame so you didn't have to sit there shooting with the lens cap on and hoping no light went through.
 
Nikon N90 (and the Japanese model) also uses AA battery.

I had one for $40 a few years ago.

Pentax MZ-3 and ist are their 2 last flagship film cameras.

If your budget is higher, you can get a Nikon FM2/FM2n, it's a classic.

There are some very good looking rangefinder since you only use 1 lens.
 
I was planning to shoot fully manual. All I really need is a light meter in the viewfinder. The AE1 sounds like a nice choice in case I do ever want something with shutter priority.

I don't plan to buy any more lenses after the 50. Just considering dabbling in film again.

I'll sit on it and check out some other stuff that could compare for the price.

I have an AE-1 Program, and I love it. I wanted a film camera that I could shoot all manual and that camera has fit the bill wonderfully. I found someone selling one on Craigslist with a brand new battery for the light meter and it's a charm.
 

Herbs

Banned
Funny enough, In the past few weeks I've been finding 35mm cameras in abundance at thrift stores. Right now have a Nikon FM, N80, and N6006. All from the past three weeks. Think I'm going to keep the N80 and FM but may pass those along too. Not sure if I want to start shooting film really.
 
Funny enough, In the past few weeks I've been finding 35mm cameras in abundance at thrift stores. Right now have a Nikon FM, N80, and N6006. All from the past three weeks. Think I'm going to keep the N80 and FM but may pass those along too. Not sure if I want to start shooting film really.

Shooting film is a unique experience. Forces you to focus a lot more on your composition and be much more selective about what you shoot. I think it's a good exercising in learning photography. My approach to photography pre- and post- getting a film camera to play around with is completely different.
 

sankt-Antonio

:^)--?-<
As the Batis 85mm is shipping somewhere far away in April now I decided to go with the 55mm 1.8 FE Zeiss. Whenever I'm allowed to buy a 85mm im in, but damn i would rather have a 85mm. :(

It was an impulse buy since i got somewhat frustrated and my firstborn is around the corner, so .... yeah
 
Shooting film is a unique experience. Forces you to focus a lot more on your composition and be much more selective about what you shoot. I think it's a good exercising in learning photography. My approach to photography pre- and post- getting a film camera to play around with is completely different.

You probably can simulate that experience if you only carry a 64MB sd card and tape over the LCD screen.

Not being sarcastic, I stop shooting film because it's getting too expensive.
 

Herbs

Banned
Shooting film is a unique experience. Forces you to focus a lot more on your composition and be much more selective about what you shoot. I think it's a good exercising in learning photography. My approach to photography pre- and post- getting a film camera to play around with is completely different.

yeah, I'm pretty set with all that. shooting film would just be another medium to take photos in for me. I think I have the basics down.
 
So if I'm able to jump on the A6000 soon, what's a decent lens to pair it with? The kit lens seemed ideal for amateur photography, but I'm hearing horror stories now :)
 
So if I'm able to jump on the A6000 soon, what's a decent lens to pair it with? The kit lens seemed ideal for amateur photography, but I'm hearing horror stories now :)

The kit lens is fine to learn on. Horror stories are told by people who are advanced to a level where IQ is paramount to their use. The kit lens is a jack of all trades, master of none type of lens.
 
The kit lens is fine to learn on. Horror stories are told by people who are advanced to a level where IQ is paramount to their use. The kit lens is a jack of all trades, master of none type of lens.

Awesome :p Thanks for the feedback lol. I figured as much, but some opinions make it seems unbearable.

What type of photos would you want to start out taking? I own and love an A6000.

Mostly pictures of my daughter, vistas, and architecture. It's going to be an event camera for the most part. Having a macro lens would be useful for some applications I'd imagine, but that'll come later.
 

KalBalboa

Banned
Mostly pictures of my daughter, vistas, and architecture. It's going to be an event camera for the most part. Having a macro lens would be useful for some applications I'd imagine, but that'll come later.

I had the kit lens for a few months. It's fine for what it is, like posted a few minutes ago, but if you want to get one lens that will immediately give you "wow" photos and you want to stay first party then I'd go with the 35mm 1.8. The kit lens isn't much in typical indoor lighting, for my money.

The 20mm was my first lens and it's my go-to pancake lens but the focus ring isn't as fun if you're looking to sink your teeth into pro-sumer photography. Plus, the 35mm can open up a bit wider and take some really showy portraits.
 
I had the kit lens for a few months. It's fine for what it is, like posted a few minutes ago, but if you want to get one lens that will immediately give you "wow" photos and you want to stay first party then I'd go with the 35mm 1.8. The kit lens isn't much in typical indoor lighting, for my money.

The 20mm was my first lens and it's my go-to pancake lens but the focus ring isn't as fun if you're looking to sink your teeth into pro-sumer photography. Plus, the 35mm can open up a bit wider and take some really showy portraits.

My ignorance goes far beyond this post :D is a fixed 35mm a solid "all around" lens? Also, will the lack of zoom bother me?
 
Funny enough, In the past few weeks I've been finding 35mm cameras in abundance at thrift stores. Right now have a Nikon FM, N80, and N6006. All from the past three weeks. Think I'm going to keep the N80 and FM but may pass those along too. Not sure if I want to start shooting film really.

I was at a Goodwill here in DFW earlier this week and they have no 35mm SLR in stock. Best thing they had is point and shoots.

I ended up buying a N8008 off eBay for $32 and I'm super excited tbh. It's been a while since I've used a film camera so I'm looking forward to playing around to see what I can do with it.

But first I need to buy film lol.
 
My ignorance goes far beyond this post :D is a fixed 35mm a solid "all around" lens? Also, will the lack of zoom bother me?

On APS-C, 35mm is basically "how you see the world". It'll look natural, not zoomed out, not zoomed in. When you go to take a photo, it'll look just as you saw it before you lifted the camera to your eye, to give it the best explanation I can.

Zoom won't "annoy" you, as long as you're fine walking places. You won't get reach with it, but tbh, the kit lens isn't good at reach either, since you have to go all the way to 5.6 to get 50mm.

In other words, get the 35mm, use it for your "every day" photos, and then when you go to a football game or some shit, that's when you'll look into a zoom, such as the 50-210.
 

FStop7

Banned
Craigslist is a good spot for 35mm film cameras, too.

I just bought the Canon EF 70-200mm f4, pretty excited ;D

With the way high ISO performance keeps improving the 70-200 f4 is probably the way to go vs. the 70-200 2.8. The f4's a lot lighter.
 
On APS-C, 35mm is basically "how you see the world". It'll look natural, not zoomed out, not zoomed in. When you go to take a photo, it'll look just as you saw it before you lifted the camera to your eye, to give it the best explanation I can.

Zoom won't "annoy" you, as long as you're fine walking places. You won't get reach with it, but tbh, the kit lens isn't good at reach either, since you have to go all the way to 5.6 to get 50mm.

In other words, get the 35mm, use it for your "every day" photos, and then when you go to a football game or some shit, that's when you'll look into a zoom, such as the 50-210.

Thanks for the explanation :) That sounds ideal actually lol.
 

Ty4on

Member
Nikon N90 (and the Japanese model) also uses AA battery.

I had one for $40 a few years ago.
Yeah, I forgot to add that models just below those are bargains and much easier to find. I got a Minolta 700si with the battery grip and a 3500 wireless flash for ~$40. It's plasticky and has some (OK, a lot :p) of quirks, but is really comfortable and has dual dials.
It's really hard to find older cameras where I live as well. I picked that Minolta up because I had wanted an A mount SLR for a while and found it online when I was in the capital for a weekend. The guy gave me an XG1 in decent shape, but lacking the battery door for free with it. He even offered to give me a Contax G1 trusting that me that I would pay him online, but as much as I want one (and I really want one) I didn't want to spend the 500+ a starter system costs and I'm not much of a street shooter.

I guess the morale is don't get me started on film gear... But also that cheap gear isn't bad, but that you don't have to settle for the entry level great flooding the market. Some of those old cameras and lenses almost cost less than a roll of film on KEH.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Actually I'd start with the kit zoom for a while, get a feel for how things look at different focal lengths, rather than forcing yourself into a 'normal' focal length prime from the start. I really liked shooting the 85mm f1.8 on a canon APSC camera, which is 'too long' for normal shots, I just loved the look of photos from it.

Now I have a mirrorless I have the kit zoom and the Olympus 45mm f1.8


Kit zoom is a great way to find out what you want next whiteout having to spend a ton of money you might regret later. Also if you're gong to take a bunch of shots of your kids, a long lens can be helpful to keep some distance - helping you to get more candid shots. likewise the flexibility of a zoom to get the framing you want when you don't have time to move into the correct position.
 
Actually I'd start with the kit zoom for a while, get a feel for how things look at different focal lengths, rather than forcing yourself into a 'normal' focal length prime from the start. I really liked shooting the 85mm f1.8 on a canon APSC camera, which is 'too long' for normal shots, I just loved the look of photos from it.

Now I have a mirrorless I have the kit zoom and the Olympus 45mm f1.8


Kit zoom is a great way to find out what you want next whiteout having to spend a ton of money you might regret later. Also if you're gong to take a bunch of shots of your kids, a long lens can be helpful to keep some distance - helping you to get more candid shots. likewise the flexibility of a zoom to get the framing you want when you don't have time to move into the correct position.

I'm definitely going to start with the kit lens as the price point is a bit more approachable, and I'm well below even amateur photography lol, I'm just trying to get a feel for different lens styles in case the hobby develops further.
 

Ty4on

Member
Kit zoom is a great way to find out what you want next whiteout having to spend a ton of money you might regret later. Also if you're gong to take a bunch of shots of your kids, a long lens can be helpful to keep some distance - helping you to get more candid shots. likewise the flexibility of a zoom to get the framing you want when you don't have time to move into the correct position.

I also think most of the pictures people take need a tighter framing. Especially when I started out I noticed how the subject in my pictures was always too small or filled with stuff I didn't want to see around it.

Primes are neat and a good way of teaching yourself to move your body when framing a shot, but be prepared to miss shots. Especially with standard lenses I see a good vista, but it's too narrow. A good subject, but it's too wide etc. On the other hand that could make you find a completely different framing that you might otherwise have missed.
I'm definitely going to start with the kit lens as the price point is a bit more approachable, and I'm well below even amateur photography lol, I'm just trying to get a feel for different lens styles in case the hobby develops further.
If you use a photo editing software you can sort pictures by focal length and see which ones you use the most. Heck, you can even do it in Windows Explorer.
 
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