JadedWriter
Member
Is a 610 really that good still? I'm contemplating a 750 mainly cause of the autofocus system and iso performance, but I could save some money I wouldn't mind getting a 610.
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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
D610 is on sale right now... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FOTF8M2/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I might get one just cause.
I might get one just cause.
JadedWriter
Member
Wait so it's still good? Cause I intend on getting a full frame next year.
been going around with an a7. the 35/2.8 has stayed on it 90% of the time since I bought it. Decided to buy a used x100s to see if I could just use that since the focal length will be the same and the camera is pretty good. If I like it enough, might just sell the sony system.
Am I making a big mistake?
Am I making a big mistake?
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah the AF thing is something that I really look at since I use it a lot. I don't do too much video but who knows what I'm going to wind up doing on a shoot or at an event, that's why if I can find like a refurbished 750 for like 1500 I'd most likely snatched that right the heck up as long as I have the money for it. Plus it has really good iso handling.
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah my main gripe would be the AF spread. 51 over 39 is a definite plus.
Interference probably isn't an issue but many cameras don't have an IR port on the back, so you would have to point to your camera from the front, which maybe awkward if you are standing behind the camera.
QualityPixel
Banned
Exactly. What the D610 lacks in features it more than makes up in sensor quality and value.
jongkookie
Member
For my uses, it's more than enough.
I don't care about the AF motor since all my lenses are MF, and 1080p/30 video is more than enough since I'm never going to use 60fps on a shoot(besides I'll have access to better video gear if needed).
Basically, I can get by with my D3200 even for another year or two, I'm just wanting the wider FOV I can get with my lenses and it's a case of wanting not needing tbh.
JadedWriter
Member
I get you on that. I just need better iso performance. Not being able to put my camera above 1600 is annoying. I mean yeah I technically can but the image quality isn't too great. For event photography I don't think they want grainy images.
JadedWriter
Member
I need long glass and a faster flash, mother of god. I'm assisting on this shoot and my stuff is more or less useless. Any such thing as an affordable flash that doesn't have a shit recycle time?
JadedWriter
Member
No. Sometimes turning on the auto focus beep helps. I'm not sure how canon's work but there is a circle that comes on in the viewfinder that's the "in focus" symbol.
It could be the diopter ring. Autofocus on something and turn it until the viewfinder looks sharp.
You'll never be able to see if something is perfectly sharp through the viewfinder though. That's what zooming in on the image afterwards is for.
Krauser Kat
Member
Excited i pick up my GH4 and Adapater today.
Then im selling my 7D kit lens and Pancake and all the stuff that goes with it.
Then im selling my 7D kit lens and Pancake and all the stuff that goes with it.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
Still love my D600.
Had a friend that had her diopter set wrong. She couldn't figure out why she couldn't manually focus. I don't know how anyone can use it with it set wrong it totally fucks me up when I try to use my dad's SLR and his different adjustment
You can also just adjust the diopter until the LCD text inside the viewfinder is sharp.
JadedWriter
Member
Was the shutter oil problem blown out of proportion or is that a real legit thing?
It was real, but not that big of a deal IMHO. You had to clean the sensor more often than you normally would - more potential for damage but if you are not a total klutz its just extra normal maintenance.
JadedWriter
Member
How often should one even clean their sensor? I might have done it once since I had my camera. How is it supposed to be done any how? I've always been worried about damaging it.
Whenever its dirty? You will start to see dark blobs when stopped down.
Here is a pretty extreme example of the D600 on a bad day:
To clean it is simple, you just lock the mirror up for cleaning, use a special swab, wipe it off.
Your camera should have a sensor cleaning mode. It will expose the sensor. You can use a small air blaster like this one:
Just a few pumps of air is usually enough to clean all the dust off of your sensor. You don't need to hold it close. I usually keep the tip flush with the lens mount. Just four or five short squeezes of the blower.
If your sensor is still dirty there are swaps you can buy for cleaning it directly. I have only done this twice, ever. 99% of the time the air blower is sufficient.
BTW - do not use pressurized "canned" air. That stuff contains a chemical propellant that will get all over your sensor and can damage it.
Most DSLRs made in the past few years have self-cleaning sensors. They use ultrasonic vibrations to shake off any dust. But occasionally you still may have to do a manual cleaning.
It could be the diopter ring. Autofocus on something and turn it until the viewfinder looks sharp.
You'll never be able to see if something is perfectly sharp through the viewfinder though. That's what zooming in on the image afterwards is for.
I will try this tonight.
And now I am thinking of buying a cleaning kit, and check if my sensor have any dark spots. Do I set it to the clean-up mode, and then take off the lens, and clean the mirror inside?
TerryLee81
Member
I remember reading somewhere that you should NOT try to clean the mirror. Sensor ok, if you have the appropriate tools.
JadedWriter
Member
That's the same exact one I have, I just don't blast the sensor with it. I'm also assuming that my sensor cleans itself whenever I shut the camera off.
Just get a lens pen, the air blaster posted above and some lens cleaner...which I've only really needed to clean off a dirty UV filter. That should really be all you need. I usually clean my camera off maybe once or twice a week depending on how lazy I am and how much I use it.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
Mine never got that bad— had those splotches on the left edge of the frame. Never sent mine in for the official cleaning/fix and it's mostly rectified itself. Should get around to sending it in to Nikon Canada.
Blower doesn't knock this oil off.
Since you don't need a cleaning kit to check, you might as well check first.
The mirror is not the sensor. The mirror is what sends light from the lens to the viewfinder, it moves out of the way for light to hit the sensor.
Yeah if there's oil on the sensor you'll need a swab+liquid cleaning.
look up a video on youtube
JadedWriter
Member
There's an answer for everything on there
yup, best resource available
StopMakingSense
Member
Man, this thread reminding me i need to clean a couple new oil spots off my D800.
It could be the diopter ring. Autofocus on something and turn it until the viewfinder looks sharp.
You'll never be able to see if something is perfectly sharp through the viewfinder though. That's what zooming in on the image afterwards is for.
This happened to me when I got my latest body. So embarrassing, but happy it was an easy fix.
i think this happens to everyone. Back in November we did a pumpkin patch shoot with some of our good friends and i took their camera and started shooting and within seconds noticed how blurry it was, so i adjusted it and gave it back to him, and he goes "what did you do? it looks so much better now. we thought it was broken"
jongkookie
Member
Honestly speaking, I've never had to shoot an event above 1600 ISO. I did a shoot a few months ago where my only light sources where Christmas lights wrapped around trees and I was so hesitant to use 1600 ISO, I forced myself to use 800 and a majority of my pics were shit. I could've bumped it up to 1600 ISO and it still would've been fine but I was scared of doing it coz this was the last day for the Christmas lights and there wouldn't be any reshoots.
But on the other hand, that's when I learned how great Lightroom's noise suppression is. Once I narrowed down a few shots that I really liked, I spent my time playing around with noise removal and all that good stuff... and the pictures turned out really well.
Worse comes to worse, you can play off the grainy-ness as an artistic quality that you were trying to achieve lol.
Yep.
I always carry my kit lens on major shoots now coz I've had a few moments where I accidentally move the diopter while storing/removing my camera out of the bag lol.
JadedWriter
Member
I'm not really sure how much grain I can get away with not to mention the moments where my lens just goes "fuck you I'm soft focusing," which gets really god damn annoying. I think I remedied most of that in AF fine tuning but I need to run more tests, not to mention just flat out camera shake due to shutter speed being lower, but at the very least I'm starting to see that happens to everyone since my coworker with a D4S even has that happen to him and he's been doing it for years. I guess I'm honestly just too damn self critical and just need to realize A) shit happens and B) nobody is perfect.
anyone have issues with their nikon d800 and shutter speed? I just tried to take a headshot for my wife and the shutter speed was all over the map, from 1/20 and lower to 1/500 the shots were coming back almost black to completely blown out white. Shooting in A mode ISO 3200 a f2.8 nothing was changing except the shutter speed.
The only thing i can think of is my battery is almost dead. Charging it now and going to test. But my nikon's never done anything that drastic for shutter speed variation.
The only thing i can think of is my battery is almost dead. Charging it now and going to test. But my nikon's never done anything that drastic for shutter speed variation.
you need a flash.
Granted some events wont let you use one for whatever reason, but from what i've seen they are few and far between. A flash makes all the freaking difference in ISO in event photography. Especially bouncing it off the cieling. I'm no flash expert but when i've borrowed my friends flash the results have been excellent.
StopMakingSense
Member
You don't accidentally have bracketing on do you?
MistakenMobius
Member
Hi everyone,
Small question:
I own a Linux LX6 (I think)
I'm want to buy my first camera with changeable lenses and I'm wondering between a Fuji Xt10 and the equivalent by Olympus omd something mk ii.
And I'm in full gear acquisition syndrome tempting me to go all the way to an XT1.
I want to get something nice for street photography and city by night.
I need to target something with a big aperture, something like 2.0 right?
In an other question, I was told to look for the X100t, but is it versatile enough for what I'm looking to do?
Budget can be stretched to 1500 euro
Small question:
I own a Linux LX6 (I think)
I'm want to buy my first camera with changeable lenses and I'm wondering between a Fuji Xt10 and the equivalent by Olympus omd something mk ii.
And I'm in full gear acquisition syndrome tempting me to go all the way to an XT1.
I want to get something nice for street photography and city by night.
I need to target something with a big aperture, something like 2.0 right?
In an other question, I was told to look for the X100t, but is it versatile enough for what I'm looking to do?
Budget can be stretched to 1500 euro
fuck. that was it. Thanks.
I'd stick with Fuji just because of the crop frame sensor.
On that note you can't go wrong with either the x100t or the xt1. The problem will be the price difference and the versatility. The x100t is an amazing camera but limits your options with a fixed lens. It is great for street photography though as it is quiet and small so allows you to remain somewhat discreet.
The xt-1 has the option to allow some versatility. Especially if you decide to go with some vintage lenses which can really open up your lens selection.
I have the x100s and the xt-1 so I'd recommend the xt-1 right now. But the thing is, you can't really go wrong with both.
I wouldn't discount the Xe2, with the 4.0 update is close to the T1 in terms of AF, the Xt10 is a mini Xt1 pretty much.
The sensor is the same in all three cameras, so it may be a dslr form vs rangefinder form depending which you like best.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
Yeah, you can't fix camera shake in post. I have had to learn to trust auto-ISO and suppress my fear of high-ISO because it lead to bad decisions leading to bad photos.
Hate when that happens. Screwed me up once before as well.
JadedWriter
Member
I have a flash, it's just fucking slow. Waiting 2 to 3 seconds after pressing the shutter button for the thing to go off isn't exactly ideal when you're trying to capture a specific moment. By the time the flash pops the moment is already gone and has transformed into some weird face making shit.
TheTurboFD
Member
Hello everyone, I've been looking into getting into doing some product and portrait photography. What would be some needed supplies for a beginner taking the photos in home such as backdrop, lights and such? Not looking to spend too much but i'm flexible.
ok let me rephrase my advice, you need a better flash. A flash should pop when you press the shutter. The one i borrow from my friend is a Nikon SB 600 i think, works great with my d800.
I've just shot a bat mitzvah recently and flash is pretty much not allowed or in other cases, too distracting. I have to go up to ISO 6400 frequently at f2.8, but I try to stick to 3200 or 1600 most of the time and then increase the exposure in post. While noise level may be similar in both cases, I think I get a bit more tonality out of it. Client's fine with the results since nothing is going to get blown up to wall size anyway. I think we are naturally more critical of noise in our own pictures because we look at our images at 100% a lot. Usually I just figure out what the images are going to be used for and then I know how much I can get away with. A grainier picture that capture the right moment is far better than blurry or no picture imo.
JadedWriter
Member
How is the range of movement on it? Can it turn around cause I read there was a model that couldn't.