I traded a 50 1.2 L yesterday for a 700-200 IS 2.8 ii, now deciding if it is worth keeping over my 70-300 IS. I know it is better but I don't even hardly use a telephoto and I am actually happy with the 70-300.
Also I am hoping someone can edit the top of a picture I took out of my car quicky, didn't notice until I got home
6dmkii
Thank you so much!! That pic with with a Tamron 24-70 I think but it has been awhileSomehow i don't get or miss notifications for this thread.
Some nice pictures here. I had a S7 a few years ago and it already was awesome for some photos.
Otherwise just to camp somewhere in nature I have planned for 10 years, but somehow it has not yet worked. It is about time i think.
Hope this works for you.
If you liked the RX100, look into the RX10 miii. I had it for a few days and it was a neat zoom gadget that took some keepers.
Not sure if its right thread but have this bad boy on backorder to improve on my astrophotography
Steep learning curve for this hobby but ready for the next step up to start tracking the stars for longer exposures at lower ISO levels.
Arriving beginning of August and will post my first processed images in this thread.
Also have some stuff arriving from Amazon soon: Lens heater,
G Master good grief those things are pricey but very good lenses. Only major expense I would say for good astrophotography besides a camera is a star tracker.
G Master good grief those things are pricey but very good lenses. Only major expense I would say for good astrophotography besides a camera is a star tracker.
I have 2 lenses. The 16mm Sigma F1.4 and 85mm Sony F1.8 for my astro.
Currently happy with these two lenses but would like a 70 - 300mm zoom for deep sky objects and might pick up a small guide camera with that.
That's the thing with astrophotography. Anything below 85mm is fine with a star tracker but anything over 85mm and you'll need to be accurate with your polar alignment and potentially get a guide camera to combat star trails.
Your new 14mm G-master will be amazing on a tracker. Any star tracker should do the job.
Cheapest and most affordable but very capable tracker is Move-Shoot-Move and no astrophotography is not hard to get into.
If you need me to post a few helpful tips let me know. I'll do the best I can. Im also still learning heaps at the moment. Its pretty much youtube whenever I get the chance during my work breaks, lunch, after work, even sitting on the toilet
Don't have my diffusion tools yet.
WIP image of the Swan Nebula (M17). It is only 3hrs of exposure, wanting to get it to 10hrs, but damn clouds have rolled in for the past two weeks.
Trying to decide if I should lessen the amount/radius of the stars to bring the nebula more to the forefront.
Hawking Radiation
Do you have to drive relatively far into nature for such shots because of the light pollution?
Great job!
If criticism is wanted: The very minor downward movement of the camera in the first scene kind feels strange to me, because it's the intro ("calm before the storm") for the more action-packed scene. But most people probably don't even notice that.
Otherwise, I think faster cuts would have been more dramatic and that would have fit more with the selected music. Also, for the mood you wanted to convey, I would not use a static camera position in some of scenes(0:33 - 0:37, 0:42 - 0:44) but depth movement to the front or back.
0:41 - 0:42 is without gimbal or area focus in post, right? It makes it look a little less professional.
This may come across a little too harsh, because it is a good video and it is clear that a lot of thought and time have gone into it, but I think negative criticism, even if it is sometimes not justified, is more valuable to grow and get better than emotionless praise. This is just my personal opinion & experience, which I could partly make myself when creating videos. Keep up the good work!
Just got back from Walt Disney World and took some pics with the Canon M200 with the 15-45mm kit lens. I'm a novice, just wanted some better pics than the iphone. Also took some 360 videos with a GoPro Fusion, worked fantastic for capturing reactions of the kids on ride.
I highly recommend Luminar 4 and Aurora HDR, they are pure sorcery and easy to get crazy results with so little knowledge.
Before
After (Luminar 4)
That's a near impossible task without the crazy AI in Luminar 4.
For reference with one click in Aurora HDR (Auto HDR then pushed the Shadows 75%, single image):
One time purchase, no subscription BS. Both are by Skylum and you get a special discount I think for both. There is also Luminar AI but don't have it which is even more automated.
Use RAW files for best results.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I Luminar does nothing more than change exposure, shadows, highlights, etc.? In the example the dynamic range of the sensor is one of the most important factors, especially for recovering details from shadows in post processing.
With Lightroom, the result looks very similar after clicking "Auto" once, even though I could only test it with the JPEGs.
If you overdo it, you can really still bring out a lot more of the details (and probably some noise) that you don't see in the original (hair, etc.). This doesn't necessarily result in a beautiful or harmonious image, but it should be possible with most tools. Edited image below is drastically downsized to 2048px / 800kb compared to the original (first image). With RAW files even more should be possible. If you do the same in post processing with sensors with low dynamic range or with smartphones, then of course you don't get anything useful.
This is also one of the reasons why I find the 7RIV, or other cameras, so great, because it makes you realize how important and what advantages a good dynamic range has. Depending on the lighting conditions, this has enormous advantages and in many situations (strong dark/bright contrasts, backlighting, etc.) you can simply underexpose and then get a much better image in post processing after raising the shadows.
Here are some I made:
