Its going to be very difficult to use with the ronin. They make a remote controlled motor driven one but it is $$$$ http://store.dji.com/product/focus?site=brandsite&from=buy_now_bottom
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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
Its going to be very difficult to use with the ronin. They make a remote controlled motor driven one but it is $$$$ http://store.dji.com/product/focus?site=brandsite&from=buy_now_bottom
Yeah I figured it would probably be too difficult to use. That other thing is just nuts pricey.
jongkookie
Member
Just got confirmation I'm shooting a brass recital in 2 weeks.
I got excited, but then I remembered my D3200 has a "physical" shutter and that mirror slap is kinda loud.
I might end up sitting all the way in the back with my 70-210 lens just so I won't annoy people lol.
I got excited, but then I remembered my D3200 has a "physical" shutter and that mirror slap is kinda loud.
I might end up sitting all the way in the back with my 70-210 lens just so I won't annoy people lol.
I need mirrorless lol.
just get a sound blimp, lol
JadedWriter
Member
They theoretically have a quiet mode. Still loud though. I mean its your job, just do it and I'm quite sure the music will drown it out.
jongkookie
Member
*Sony A7r clunck*
Holy hell I just watched a video about it and it was loud. Good grief lol.
Does that thing not have a silent shutter mode like the other A7's?
A decent sound blimp costs more than my D3200 and lens collection combined... that's effin' insane haha.
The guy playing is actually an old buddy of mine from college, me and him have been on that stage way too many times for similar recitals and I know for a fact that it won't bother the musicians so I'm more concerned about the crowd getting annoyed at the shutter instead of the musician. It's a trombone + piano recital so the shutter is definitely gonna be audible for the crowd but not the musician.
The quiet mode might work though, it's probably just loud to me because I have the camera to my face lol.
Astral/H3X
Member
I think the A7SII has like a fully silent electronic shutter, which would work great for that.
Nope. It doesn't even have electronic first curtain (every other A7 model has it)
It should have functioned like the A7r ii in the first example here.
A DSLR has to flip the mirror, but in a DSLR the shutter starts closed so it just needs to expose and then reset (cock) the shutter. In a mirrorless you need live view so the shutter starts open and has to close -> expose -> reset -> open. Electronic first curtain removes one step.
I think the shutter mechanism was kind of crap in the A7r as well. I remember Photozone complaining in the 70-200 f4 review that despite the lens being really sharp they had no way of taking advantage of it with the shutter shock of the A7r.
JadedWriter
Member
fuck da crowd. You're there to get the shots, not cater to the audience
theepicoftyler
Member
Nah. A photographer should be invisible at something like that.
Save your spots for when the music is loud, and be sure you know what shots you want.
JadedWriter
Member
I thought that was the mantra for corporate events. Granted I do realize that blending in is key for pretty much everything you're covering.
theepicoftyler
Member
I just mean, people are attending those things to enjoy what's on stage, not to be annoyed/have their view blocked by a photographer.
jongkookie
Member
Unfortunately my work isn't getting one until the end of April so it would've been awesome.
Interesting. I've actually been wondering how mirrorless works so that's pretty damn informative!
This 100%.
I've mostly done music photography for rock concerts and with the photog area literally an inch away from the stage, the shutter sound was not a concern at those concerts. But for something pared down, acoustic performance like this trombone recital, the shutter noise could potentially detract from the experience.
That's a good idea though to snap pics when the music is loud. I'm probably gonna have to do that if the shutter will be an issue.
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah I've been told this as well. I'm just saying not to be self conscious about the whole thing. Get your shots, just don't detract from their experience. I was told that it's something you pick up over time. I need to learn that myself actually, but I think it's something I won't have too much of a problem with once I get a lens that's long enough to the point where I'm not standing almost two feet in front of my subject.
1. What is your budget budget?
I am really looking at prices after I get some recommendations. But I guess I am kind of expecting $500-$800.
2. Main purpose of the camera?
I want to start taking higher quality pictures then what I am getting with my everyday digital camera. I also want it to have an ability to take good quality videos.
3. What form factor is most appealing to you?
I am really open to anything, I dont really want it to be too big/heavy but- I am more asking here because I dont know where to start.
4. Will you be investing in the camera? (buying more stuff for it later)
Yes, I am looking for a base that I can add lens and stuff to later when I get better.
5. Any cameras you've used before or liked?
I used some Nikon at school but it is different every time you rent gear from school, so I am looking to getting my own and learning from square one.
Thanks in advance!
I am really looking at prices after I get some recommendations. But I guess I am kind of expecting $500-$800.
2. Main purpose of the camera?
I want to start taking higher quality pictures then what I am getting with my everyday digital camera. I also want it to have an ability to take good quality videos.
3. What form factor is most appealing to you?
I am really open to anything, I dont really want it to be too big/heavy but- I am more asking here because I dont know where to start.
4. Will you be investing in the camera? (buying more stuff for it later)
Yes, I am looking for a base that I can add lens and stuff to later when I get better.
5. Any cameras you've used before or liked?
I used some Nikon at school but it is different every time you rent gear from school, so I am looking to getting my own and learning from square one.
Thanks in advance!
I'm not an expert, but I've been reading up on this over the past month or so.
If you want high quality video and interchangeable lenses in that budget range, your best bets are probably Sony (a6000, a6300) or one of Panasonic's Micro-4/3 cameras.
The tradeoff is that Sony has larger (and higher quality) sensors, but a more expensive lens selection since they're now focusing on their higher end, full-frame cameras, while Panasonic has a pretty solid lens selection (from them, Olympus and others) but will take worse photos in low light and may generally have a worse sensor.
But honestly, you can't go too wrong with either, or even Fuji if you are okay with mediocre videos.
I've never enjoyed anything onstage at our corporate events other than the occasional comedian.
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah for the most part mine are nothing but suit functions.
StopMakingSense
Member
Well, at least it's a brass recital. Nice loud instruments.
JadedWriter
Member
I have day 2 of a science fair coming up this Tuesday. I have to cover it for 3 hours. Should be interesting.
andythinkpad
Member
Hi there I just ordered a black XT1. Do you have the 16-55 and how much do you recommend upgrading from the 18-55 to the 16-55?
Also does the XP2 EVF have better refresh rate than the XT1? When I tried them both in B&H, I didn't notice it.
jongkookie
Member
Should be, I'm gonna give him shit if he plays quiet when he's not supposed to lol.
Anyway, I finally had time to sit down and go through the Nikon F and EL2 I got this weekend. I cleaned them up the exterior first with some q-tips, and alcohol. Then grabbed a can of compressed air to air out the mirrors.
The EL2 is definitely in good shape. There's no light leaks on either side, film spools up as it should, shutter works as it should, and the light meter is pretty damn accurate(compared it with my D3200 side by side to confirm). The interior was actually pretty clean too which is really surprising.
On the F body, it's also in good shape. Went through every speed and it opens and closes correctly. I'm actually really glad I went through the entire thing coz I thought the mirrors were dirty as hell, it turns out that it was just the prism was super dirty so I cleaned that up and it looks pretty clean. The other thing that doesn't seem to work properly is the self-timer, but I'm pretty sure I'm never going to use the self timer on this thing so I don't really care about it lol.
I have actually found a local shop who should be able to recalibrate the FTn Finder but I'm probably gonna hold off on it for now since I could also use my D3200 as the "light meter" and snap a shot on the F body.
All in all, I'm pretty happy with them. But what I really love is how the focusing system works. The viewfinder "splits" the top and bottom half in the center, and you have to align both halves to get the subject in focus. I don't know what the setup is called, but it's fncking awesome and I actually kinda wonder why cameras don't do it this way these days... even my Nikon N8008(another film SLR from the late 80's) has abandoned this setup.
It's called split prism. It is really genius because you know which way to turn.
Some used micro prisms as well. They look "dotty" until you're in focus and can be good for complex patterns without any obvious lines.
It's probably quite rare (only camera I know of where it's the case), but my Mamiya 35mm SLR only has micro prisms and forced me to learn them. My Pentax has both.
I believe you can get split prism focusing screens for modern DSLRs (if it's replaceable), but they tend to mess with matrix metering.
Some used micro prisms as well. They look "dotty" until you're in focus and can be good for complex patterns without any obvious lines.
It's probably quite rare (only camera I know of where it's the case), but my Mamiya 35mm SLR only has micro prisms and forced me to learn them. My Pentax has both.
I believe you can get split prism focusing screens for modern DSLRs (if it's replaceable), but they tend to mess with matrix metering.
jongkookie
Member
It really is genius.
That micro prism sounds really cool too but I kinda wonder how difficult that would be for practical use. It's already quite slow to shoot film, I imagine that'll slow you down more. Then again, the slow method is more enjoyable so it might end up being good in the long run.
And I looked at getting a split prism screen, unfortunately Katzeye, the company that did it shut down back in November of last year. It would've been freakin' awesome to use since I rarely use AF lenses on my DSLR anyway.
There's focusingscreen.com as well. I don't have personal experience with either though.
itwasTuesday
He wasn't alone.
for those that do. when you do, recently google owned nik software is now free. https://www.google.com/nikcollection/
VisceralBowl
Member
Liking the X-Pro 2 that much?
Risible
Member
I see a bright future for you as a paparazzi.
Yeah. It's outstanding. I still love the XT-1 but no need to keep both.
Art Teitlebaum
Member
There is a AF-S 18-140 which is quite okay, I guess. And there is the cheaper 18-105 which has an incredible good value for its price. Of course it is a little bit shorter than the former, but the optical quality is really fine for such an all-purpose zoom.
Maybe you also have a look at the dedicated kit telezoom 55-200, but I know nothing about that.
starchild excalibur
Member
Looking to jump into the Sony mirrorless camera scene after having been a longtime Canon dSLR user that's wanting something smaller, lighter, with great image quality. But I was wondering: of those of you who've used/had a Sony A7 (or R/S/whatever) and an A6000, what were your general impressions of both. I'm leaning towards the A7 (mk 1), but the A6000's price is appealing to me. Has anyone found a significant difference between their experiences of the two?
Leeroy3101
Banned
Last year I jumped into the world of amateur photography. I outgrew my point and shoots, looked around for more meatier options, and I got my first DSLR in the mail about a year ago. Arguably one of the best purchases I ever made.
My Gear:
Nikon D3300 Body w/ 18-55mm kit lens (Decent lens, but not my primary)
Nikon 50mm 1.8/f Lens (My primary lens. Great for portraits & astrophotography)
Nikon 55mm-300mm (Sports, Distance, and Roller Coaster specialist lens)
Thule Messenger Bag
Giottos MTL 9240B-MH 5011-SB Tripod (Got it for over half off at a camera store in Arlington, Texas)
Hand grip as opposed to a neck strap.
I love this hobby. Can end up as a bit costly, but I find it as a wise investment. I highly recomend the D3300 for any first time DSLR owners. The system comes with a powerful sensor, better than many entry level Canons, a bevy of lens options to start with, and a more than affordable price to start with for the options it comes with..
My Gear:
Nikon D3300 Body w/ 18-55mm kit lens (Decent lens, but not my primary)
Nikon 50mm 1.8/f Lens (My primary lens. Great for portraits & astrophotography)
Nikon 55mm-300mm (Sports, Distance, and Roller Coaster specialist lens)
Thule Messenger Bag
Giottos MTL 9240B-MH 5011-SB Tripod (Got it for over half off at a camera store in Arlington, Texas)
Hand grip as opposed to a neck strap.
I love this hobby. Can end up as a bit costly, but I find it as a wise investment. I highly recomend the D3300 for any first time DSLR owners. The system comes with a powerful sensor, better than many entry level Canons, a bevy of lens options to start with, and a more than affordable price to start with for the options it comes with..
I just ordered a Fuji X70, mostly to use as a travel camera. I have a (now rather elderly) Sony Nex-5N now, and I wanted something that was smaller in size, had more manual controls, and came with wifi functionality but without giving up the fancy sensor and image quality.
In preparation, I've been ensuring I could deal with a fixed focal length and it's been pretty fun challenging myself. Looking forward to learning more about photography with it!
In preparation, I've been ensuring I could deal with a fixed focal length and it's been pretty fun challenging myself. Looking forward to learning more about photography with it!
JadedWriter
Member
I'd welcome the increase in pay. Though I do have to learn how to be "invisible" during corporate functions. Once I get some lenses that are less "short" I think I'll be ok.
I have the A7R II and to be honest the size of the camera does not really make much of a difference as the EF mount lenses available are quite large and comparable to a full size DSLR. At most you'll shave off 10-20% of weight/volume with A7 series.
Image quality/ISO/ Dynamic Range and 4K video is outstanding on my camera, only downside is the autofocus is nowhere near as good as a DSLR and battery life is poor.
The A6000 series are better if the weight/size issue is important to you as the E mount lenses are smaller, and you will get a 30% to 50% reduction. A friend of mine has the A6000 and the image quality is comparable to a Canon 7D, but autofocus is a bigger issue than on my A7RII.
Wifi connectivity of my X70 to my phone sucks. Not sure if it just my phone or the fuji app and x70 doesn't work well on phone tethering.
jongkookie
Member
Are you local to DFW?
I'm 90% sure Arlington Camera is the only Giottos dealer in the entire DFW area. I've been to Competitive Camera and Don's in downtown Dallas and I've never seen them carry Giottos gear.
Yeah, I've heard mixed reviews about wifi and phones in particular. Still, some wifi will be better than none.
Thanks, might look into the 18-105.
Leeroy3101
Banned
Nah, just took a vacation to the Dallas area. Stopped at the store to grab a tripod, and I couldn't pass up a deal on a tripod that was originally 160 dollars. Still feel like 80 bucks is too much for it, but it serves me well.
JadedWriter
Member
I have it, but I don't exactly like it. I don't hate it, but I'll just put it to you this way. I've had it in a bag, for months. Pictures for the most part are a bit soft at the long end.
andythinkpad
Member
I have 2 eyefi cards. Nowadys I just shoot microsd with adapter in the cameras and transfer to my phone by plugging the card in. It's faster this way.
I'm having serious problems with my Canon 30D's autofocus. The object I focus on is always fuzzy but everything that's about 10 cm behind it is sharp. I only get a sharp image 1 out of 10 times. Landscape shots with a narrow aperture are also a little fuzzy in 9 out of 10 shots. I have this issue with both my 50mm and 24mm Canon lenses at all apertures and shutter speeds. I've compared with my Canon 20D taking the same shots with the same lenses and no problem there, so it's definitely an issue with my 30D.
Anyone know what might be the problem and if there could be an easy fix? I only paid 50€ for the body so I'd rather buy another body than spend money on repairs.
Anyone know what might be the problem and if there could be an easy fix? I only paid 50€ for the body so I'd rather buy another body than spend money on repairs.
Leeroy3101
Banned
I know you said you want zoom, but I highly recommend getting the 50mm 1.8f prime lens. It opens up your eyes to tons of possibilities, and the wonderful world of bokeh photography.