I get why you mentioned the N64, but... GB Player too? Shouldn't it be fine with a GameCube connected to the OSSC via RGB scart (and the appropriate version of GBI)?
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Retro AV Club Thread 2: Classic Gaming Done Right!
- Thread starter Mega
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Yeah I was shocked to see that.
I'm on the mailing list for tan OSSC
New batch coming very soon. If I can get in, I definitely will.
PumpkinSpice
Banned
But then you'd need to get a PAL gamecube.
I get that you're in Europe, but I just don't want anything PAL in my house. That 50Hz smell just doesn't go away.
PAL GC is a great option though, especially with a chip. Then it plays all regions and does both RGB and component with progressive. It's the PAL games that suck, and even then you can now force progressive on most of them with Swiss.
Even stock there's no need to use 50Hz. Even as a kid I chose 60Hz lol.
cyborgnumberblue
Member
Hey cool new thread.
All credit goes IrishNinja and past contributors. I haven't yet done anything to modify the starting post!
I'm still playing around with the Spears and Munsil calibration on my ST60 and I feel like I've taken the crazy pill... most people on the internet seem to recommend a contrast setting of 78 - 85... my contrast setting after adjusting for the luminance clipping pattern is... ... ... 37. Da fuq? I mean it looks right... all "white" bars are resolvable up to the last one or 2. If I turn up contrast to 75 and above, half to 2/3 of the bars disappear. How strange.
theSlacker
Member
mattwhite924
Member
Depends on the TV. Some handle 480p better than others.
I don't have the Gamecube component cables, but using the Wii ones I prefer the Framemeister to my TV, though I think that's most because of the 2X mode. Integer scaling is pretty nice.
This one, works perfectly for me over a year even.
Here's to another awesome thread! Subbed at the speed of light!
The Monster S-Video Gamecube cables. The only Monster ANYTHING that I own. I got these back when I was going through my S-Video conversion phase. They work on all 3 consoles even though they were billed for Gamecube specifically. Of course they seem to be hard to find now!
;
Edit: Or you can go with what Timu recommends above. Those actually exist for one thing!
The Monster S-Video Gamecube cables. The only Monster ANYTHING that I own. I got these back when I was going through my S-Video conversion phase. They work on all 3 consoles even though they were billed for Gamecube specifically. Of course they seem to be hard to find now!
;Edit: Or you can go with what Timu recommends above. Those actually exist for one thing!
He's gonna pay a lot for that though, but hey, it's quality, I own some Monster cables for PS2 and Xbox and love them.Here's to another awesome thread! Subbed at the speed of light!
The Monster S-Video Gamecube cables. The only Monster ANYTHING that I own. I got these back when I was going through my S-Video conversion phase. They work on all 3 consoles even though they were billed for Gamecube specifically. Of course they seem to be hard to find now!
Sub_Level
wants to fuck an Asian grill.
As of tonight, I can now officially join you all in the CRT cool kids treehouse. Found this baby in my grandma's garage.
The input timing is amazing. The glow is divine. The curved screen is sexy. Unfortunately it's composite but goddammit I know what my eyes see and what my eyes see is beautiful. Will definitely be using this for PS1 games. Yes I will dust it off and take it off the floor.
The input timing is amazing. The glow is divine. The curved screen is sexy. Unfortunately it's composite but goddammit I know what my eyes see and what my eyes see is beautiful. Will definitely be using this for PS1 games. Yes I will dust it off and take it off the floor.
I internally called BS on input lag (for the most part). However going from Super Metroid on a 1080p plasma to a $5 Craigslist CRT had me sold. The game is super floaty as is but it made a huge difference in the vertical corridors!
Welcome to the rabbit hole!
NormalFish
Banned
can't speak to 4k (i don't see why it would be better either, though in theory the design should allow for 4k output in some future revision, however this is true for the XRGB as well), but the OSSC vs Framemeister comparison is really a matter of your display, your desire to tinker with things, and your ability to troubleshoot issues and understand the limitations of the different boxes.
In short, if you want a box that allows tons of configuration and allows for just about any display/console combination, get a Framemeister. If you want a box that will get you extremely low lag and very clean upscaling, with the downside of quirky compatibility and far less configuration, then go for the OSSC.
CharlesDangus
Member
OSSC is supposed to be good for 4K because of its line triple mode. In line double mode: 240p -> 480p. In line triple mode: 240p -> 720p. 720p (1280x720) is a 3x integer scale to 4K (3840x2160). The idea is this integer scaling will produce fewer artifacts than upscaling 480p to 4K. Keep in mind that the 720p signal produced with the line triple mode may not be handled correctly by some displays.
NormalFish
Banned
the framemeister's 720p is also fantastic, though.
RadarScope1
Member
Welcome and congrats. For all the money and effort expended on upscalers, there is just nothing like gaming on a CRT. Instant response time. Accept no substitutes.
Update on the gscartsw:
I was at my brother's house today doing a bit of electrical work and he replaced his 27" CRT with a new TV in the basement. This thread made me think of asking him to have it but I don't have the room and he's not throwing it out yet any way so I didn't.
Sucks for you JP21 users. Anyone that wants a SCART one from this batch has just over 19 hours to get the order in.superg said:
I was at my brother's house today doing a bit of electrical work and he replaced his 27" CRT with a new TV in the basement. This thread made me think of asking him to have it but I don't have the room and he's not throwing it out yet any way so I didn't.
I would like for someone to actually try that, lol.
D.Lo
Member
Some PAL games (basically just the top ones, eg Metroid Prime 1) render at higher resolution in PAL. So you get a genuinely higher resolution on a 576i screen, so less dithering on object edges. Wind Waker uses the extra lines too, but unfortunately runs 17% slower, but MP as adjusted.
Most PAL games either squash or stretch the NTSC resolution however, so in most cases they are definitely worse, not to mention when the speed is not adjusted.
Personally, I prefer the internal scaler of most HDTVs to that of the Framemeister for handling 480p.
I read that the Framemeister has a soft image for 480p, wonder how soft.
IrishNinja
Member
lookin' good! OP should note: i'm a bum, that fantastic OP from the last thread was 100% sixfourtyfive
glad mega got the first few posts in here, i really did like the idea of having one dedicated to audio as well
bruh i drink and plug things in wrong, it's okay if i chime in less haha
glad mega got the first few posts in here, i really did like the idea of having one dedicated to audio as well
bruh i drink and plug things in wrong, it's okay if i chime in less haha
D.Lo
Member
I found it too hard myself?
My old Panasonic Plasma nicely softened 480p, I preferred it to the Framemeister. my new 4K Sony... actually I haven't tried on it lol. I have the Gamecube to the FM because it's pretty much a 240p GBP-only device.
Yup, the games suck for the most part. My point was that the console itself is a good thing to have. I mostly use NTSC games with a chipped PAL console.
Beer Monkey
Member
Here is to a great new thread. So much knowledge was shared in the last one. Proud of this sub-community.
That's really new to me. One never stops learning.
Are you talking about games that come with a 60hz selector too, or just those that are 50hz-only (such as Tales of Symphonia)? On my Trinitron, stuff like PAL F-Zero set to 60hz doesn't seem to run/look any different/worse than - say - US Resident Evil 4 (via Freeloader) on the same console. I'm using an official Nintendo RGB cable - which I know is nowhere as good as component on NTSC systems - but I genuinely fail to see any difference in IQ, between PAL60 and NTSC games.
Hopefully the USB 3.0 ports fix my Startech USB3CAP issue with HDMI connected devices. SpikedGunner was the other gaffer I was talking about in the other thread, yet he says he uses USB 3.0 ports and has the same issue.
On that note, still watching twitter for the day Dreamcast gets its own HD retrovision component cables finalized.
EDIT: Yeah CRTs give things a certain glow that is just cool. Even when looking at the same game source captured, on an LCD it just looks different regardless.
On that note, still watching twitter for the day Dreamcast gets its own HD retrovision component cables finalized.
EDIT: Yeah CRTs give things a certain glow that is just cool. Even when looking at the same game source captured, on an LCD it just looks different regardless.
I'm a firm believer you can get an amazing picture on a consumer CRT. Congrats and I look forward to seeing your next CRT.
I personally think it's too sharp and adds artifacts.
the androgyne
Member
I need some suggestions from you guys! I recently moved to Japan and had to give up my long-hoarded Trinitron in the process. Now i'm at my inlaws for a little while, and the TV i've got access to is an LCD that has a measly 2 HDMI, 1 Composite and a D4 D-Terminal port.
My problem is mostly centered around my Japanese Saturn, which i have to connect through Composite. I used to use S-Video on my CRT, but even that's not an option now. I've been able to expand my collection greatly since arriving in Japan, but i'm losing interest because of the horrendous quality i'm getting!
It's not a bother so much, but i've also got a Japanese Gamecube suffering a similar fate - it's got the component input, i've got the component cables - just the TV doesn't have the plugs!
Further down the list is my Japanese N64, which i only have composite cables for.
I really just want to enjoy my Saturn again, but if there's a solution that helps the others with minimal effort, that would be best. What are my options here?
In case you needed any convincing to help me:
I apologize for dirtying the thread with these. Click for larger only if you're wearing protective eyewear!
My problem is mostly centered around my Japanese Saturn, which i have to connect through Composite. I used to use S-Video on my CRT, but even that's not an option now. I've been able to expand my collection greatly since arriving in Japan, but i'm losing interest because of the horrendous quality i'm getting!
It's not a bother so much, but i've also got a Japanese Gamecube suffering a similar fate - it's got the component input, i've got the component cables - just the TV doesn't have the plugs!
Further down the list is my Japanese N64, which i only have composite cables for.
I really just want to enjoy my Saturn again, but if there's a solution that helps the others with minimal effort, that would be best. What are my options here?
In case you needed any convincing to help me:
I apologize for dirtying the thread with these. Click for larger only if you're wearing protective eyewear!
RadarScope1
Member
You're in Japan. Get that Framemeister.
PumpkinSpice
Banned
+1 for get a framemeister.
You'll go from being really disappointed every time you turn the system on to not wanting to play anything else.
Solid advice. But are CRT's not prevalent in Japan anymore? I would think that they are everywhere with how the retro scene is out there.
Framemeister will do you a world of good though.
Not necessarily retro related but I can't find a better thread to ask this in:
Two of the HDMI sockets on my receiver have stopped working. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix this? I've tried power cycling a bunch of times to no avail.
Failing that is there an affordable HDMI switch that a bunch of people can vouch for? I would be plugging it into one of the two HDMI sockets that are still working on the receiver.
Two of the HDMI sockets on my receiver have stopped working. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix this? I've tried power cycling a bunch of times to no avail.
Failing that is there an affordable HDMI switch that a bunch of people can vouch for? I would be plugging it into one of the two HDMI sockets that are still working on the receiver.
Jesus that expensive that the quality doesn't look that great!
I'll offer my RGB install services for £50 plus parts.
the androgyne
Member
My wallet was hoping you'd have something cheaper for me... but somehow it knew
This Saturn only cost me 2000Y about 4 years ago... so almost 40000Y is a hard pill to swallow! But maybe with some want-list shuffling in the future i'll find a way. Can someone with one post a pic of Xmen vs StreetFighter like mine above? That should get me motivated!
CRT's, at least where i am (countryside) are basically non-existant. There's a few recycle shops with some, but nothing special.
I have 2 Super Famicoms floating about as well that i haven't tried out here yet. Can you tell with the serial whether it's a good one for RGB?
This Saturn only cost me 2000Y about 4 years ago... so almost 40000Y is a hard pill to swallow! But maybe with some want-list shuffling in the future i'll find a way. Can someone with one post a pic of Xmen vs StreetFighter like mine above? That should get me motivated!
CRT's, at least where i am (countryside) are basically non-existant. There's a few recycle shops with some, but nothing special.
I have 2 Super Famicoms floating about as well that i haven't tried out here yet. Can you tell with the serial whether it's a good one for RGB?
Why don't you think the quality looks great? I don't see any issues with it other than price.
lilralphie
Member
Excited for a new thread!
RadarScope1
Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LN3L1mLRWhs
I saw this PC Engine 720p DVI upscaler at BEEP akiba. It's like $400 USD so kind of insane compared to a Framemeister or whatever. Apparently the input lag is like 1 frame vs. 20 or whatever Framemeister is though, so if that matters and you have money to spend, dozo.
Framemeister adds just 1 or 2 ms, I beleive.
sixteen-bit
Member
16ms or the equivalent of about 1 frame at 60fps
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