Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

All the moaning about sticks not working on new consoles is funny to me. Buying or making new sticks with a new console is the way it's always worked. Not sure why everyone is so outraged about it.

Even if you don't want to buy a whole new stick, a small fee for a pad and about 45 minutes of work is all it takes to make your current stick work with your new console. And it'll work better than any half-assed software solution as well.
 
All the moaning about sticks not working on new consoles is funny to me. Buying or making new sticks with a new console is the way it's always worked. Not sure why everyone is so outraged about it.

Even if you don't want to buy a whole new stick, a small fee for a pad and about 45 minutes of work is all it takes to make your current stick work with your new console. And it'll work better than any half-assed software solution as well.

Well, there's a few factors here:

First of all, this is the first time controllers being backwards-compatible between consoles was even possible, because from 360 onwards every wired console controller used USB. For PS2->PS3, it was a given that PS2 controllers wouldn't work because they had different ports. In the case of PS3->PS4, the functionality IS there, so it's frustrating when some games don't bother to use it considering how many people have PS3 sticks.

Second, PS4 sticks are pricey. You could get a good-to-great 360/PS3 stick for $100-$130 - almost all PS4 sticks are $150 minimum. And MadCatz refuses to confirm or deny a TES+ for PS4 because they're trying to get people to buy $200 TE2s, and that's really annoying to see. The only cheap stick for PS4 is the Venom and it's a pain to get because it's not officially sold in the US.

So I think there is some reasonable justification to people being frustrated.
 
All the moaning about sticks not working on new consoles is funny to me. Buying or making new sticks with a new console is the way it's always worked. Not sure why everyone is so outraged about it.

Even if you don't want to buy a whole new stick, a small fee for a pad and about 45 minutes of work is all it takes to make your current stick work with your new console. And it'll work better than any half-assed software solution as well.

Agree 100%.
 
Well, there's a few factors here:

First of all, this is the first time controllers being backwards-compatible between consoles was even possible, because from 360 onwards every wired console controller used USB. For PS2->PS3, it was a given that PS2 controllers wouldn't work because they had different ports. In the case of PS3->PS4, the functionality IS there, so it's frustrating when some games don't bother to use it considering how many people have PS3 sticks.

Second, PS4 sticks are pricey. You could get a good-to-great 360/PS3 stick for $100-$130 - almost all PS4 sticks are $150 minimum. And MadCatz refuses to confirm or deny a TES+ for PS4 because they're trying to get people to buy $200 TE2s, and that's really annoying to see. The only cheap stick for PS4 is the Venom and it's a pain to get because it's not officially sold in the US.

So I think there is some reasonable justification to people being frustrated.
So $20 more for a PS4 stick that also works on PS3 is too expensive? C'mon now.

Like I said there's also just modding a stick yourself with a pad. Hell back in my day (lol) making your own stick was pretty much the only way to get a stick that you could rely on with the parts you want. So $150 for a good quality stick that works with everything is a massive improvement.

Plus, as I said, a PS4 native stick will work better in general. You'll be able to use share functionality, use it in the OS, won't need a DS4 with you at all times, can use the stick to accept system messages, etc. Using a PS3 stick is enough of a step down that I don't see the point in begging for it to work, really.
 
All the moaning about sticks not working on new consoles is funny to me. Buying or making new sticks with a new console is the way it's always worked. Not sure why everyone is so outraged about it.

Even if you don't want to buy a whole new stick, a small fee for a pad and about 45 minutes of work is all it takes to make your current stick work with your new console. And it'll work better than any half-assed software solution as well.

PS1 sticks worked on PS2, and with a $20 inpin adapter, PS3 as well with zero issues. Maybe that spoiled folks, haha. Platform holders locking down controllers is poor form and anti-consumer imo.
 
PS1 sticks worked on PS2, and with a $20 inpin adapter, PS3 as well with zero issues. Maybe that spoiled folks, haha.

That's probably it. I always made my own sticks, which was annoyingly expensive and a pain in the butt to find and buy parts for. So the popularity of premade sticks you could buy in stores for PS3 and 360 was really cool to me. Too bad it seems to have lead to moaning about spending $100 and demanding that this "major investment" be forced to work on new systems.
 
So $20 more for a PS4 stick that also works on PS3 is too expensive? C'mon now.

Like I said there's also just modding a stick yourself with a pad. Hell back in my day (lol) making your own stick was pretty much the only way to get a stick that you could rely on with the parts you want. So $150 for a good quality stick that works with everything is a massive improvement.

Plus, as I said, a PS4 native stick will work better in general. You'll be able to use share functionality, use it in the OS, won't need a DS4 with you at all times, can use the stick to accept system messages, etc. Using a PS3 stick is enough of a step down that I don't see the point in begging for it to work, really.

I can promise you that 90% of people with arcade sticks do not want to be bothered with modding with a pad. It's extremely intimidating to someone who has never done it before.

And yes, I think a $20 to $40 bump in price is not something people are happy about. It may sound minor when you're talking about a $100+ purchase but that's still a lot of money.

Also, I bought a PS4 stick so I'm on your side. I'm just saying I understand where the frustration is coming from.
 
I'm sure many of the frustrated people got into fighters more recently and this is the first generational transition they've had to deal with. That being said- it's annoying that given a universal port is involved, it's a pain in the ass to get stuff working on multiple systems. That's why I dropped the money and got a PS3/PS4/360/xbone compatible stick even though it was pricey (still way cheaper than buying 4 sticks, and only have to carry one stick to a tournament).
 
I can promise you that 90% of people with arcade sticks do not want to be bothered with modding with a pad. It's extremely intimidating to someone who has never done it before.

And yes, I think a $20 to $40 bump in price is not something people are happy about. It may sound minor when you're talking about a $100+ purchase but that's still a lot of money.

Also, I bought a PS4 stick so I'm on your side. I'm just saying I understand where the frustration is coming from.

I definitely understand, but it's annoying to read constantly in so many threads.

Also, I was just asking if anybody had preordered a rivals on Amazon because I wanted to know if they had a shipping estimate. haha...that somebody commented on old sticks because of my comment is funny to me.
 
Getting a little taste of Street Fighter V's beta -- a few minutes in training -- was enough to re-ignite my Fightstick modding fire. Finally decided to order a Hori Hayabusa from FocusAttack. Can't wait to install it in my Fightstick TE this week! :D
 
Getting a little taste of Street Fighter V's beta -- a few minutes in training -- was enough to re-ignite my Fightstick modding fire. Finally decided to order a Hori Hayabusa from FocusAttack. Can't wait to install it in my Fightstick TE this week! :D

Hayabusa + 2lb spring = my favorite stick evah.

I see that paradise arcade actually has mechanical buttons in stock. I think I might order some just to try them out.

With the switches is there some place that sells those separately? I don't see them on any sites as available.
 
Getting a little taste of Street Fighter V's beta -- a few minutes in training -- was enough to re-ignite my Fightstick modding fire. Finally decided to order a Hori Hayabusa from FocusAttack. Can't wait to install it in my Fightstick TE this week! :D

Awesome! I'm going to install mine in my PS4 TE this week as well. Such a good stick but I didn't have a good box to use it in until recently.
 
Getting a little taste of Street Fighter V's beta -- a few minutes in training -- was enough to re-ignite my Fightstick modding fire. Finally decided to order a Hori Hayabusa from FocusAttack. Can't wait to install it in my Fightstick TE this week! :D
Hayabusa + 2lb spring = my favorite stick evah.

I see that paradise arcade actually has mechanical buttons in stock. I think I might order some just to try them out.

With the switches is there some place that sells those separately? I don't see them on any sites as available.
Awesome! I'm going to install mine in my PS4 TE this week as well. Such a good stick but I didn't have a good box to use it in until recently.
I may do the same with whatever stick I go with for SFV. Hopefully the final build allows for PS3 sticks.
 
Well I think it's decided... if any more Rival TE2's show up in stock I think I'm going to put an order down. I'm already looking at button and balltop colors while I try and figure out what design I want to do.
 
Amazon finally decided to stock the HORI RAP 4 Kai in the UK store and I picked it up for £95, only for the price to drop down to 90 as soon as I bought it LOL. Talked to customer service and I got the £5 struck off which is nice.

For UK people looking for a decently priced stick it's still available for that price, and considering how stuff like the TE2 is usually over 150, you'd still be saving money even if you replaced everything with Sanwa, so pretty good imo.

Pretty excited ngl, I've heard lots of good things about the Hayabusa can't wait to try it.
 
Hayabusa + 2lb spring = my favorite stick evah.

How easy is it to switch out the spring, and what does that do the for stick?

I've been messing up a lot of dashes to one side, mostly because I think I'm not letting it return to neutral after the first one. Would a stiffer spring help?
 
Also, I was just asking if anybody had preordered a rivals on Amazon because I wanted to know if they had a shipping estimate. haha...that somebody commented on old sticks because of my comment is funny to me.
Well, Amazon is trying to charge me for mine. I was going to trade in my current USFIV TE2 towards it but couldn't find a suitable box. I don't think the trade in credit will be there in time before they cancel my order. I'm pretty sad about it but it's not the end of the world I guess.
 
How easy is it to switch out the spring, and what does that do the for stick?

I've been messing up a lot of dashes to one side, mostly because I think I'm not letting it return to neutral after the first one. Would a stiffer spring help?

Spring swap is easy.

Remove c-clip from the bottom
remove actuator
remove spring
insert new spring
insert actuator
insert c-clip

Granted, the first time you ever do it it'll be a bit odd but it's not too hard. It helps the stick not feel so loose and tightens up inputs.
 
Hayabusa + 2lb spring = my favorite stick evah.

I see that paradise arcade actually has mechanical buttons in stock. I think I might order some just to try them out.

With the switches is there some place that sells those separately? I don't see them on any sites as available.
Aren't the switches the same as the keyboard ones? I suppose you could just buy a bunch of those and they'd work the same
 
How easy is it to switch out the spring, and what does that do the for stick?

I've been messing up a lot of dashes to one side, mostly because I think I'm not letting it return to neutral after the first one. Would a stiffer spring help?

The only mods I'm able to do on a stick are changing buttons, so the first time, it was pretty difficult, but I think it'll probably be pretty easy for most people.

For me, stock Hayabusa are WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too loose, and I'm constantly missing stuff because it's not going to neutral fast enough. Tighter spring means going back to neutral quicker. It makes a huge difference for me in anime games with air dashes.

Aren't the switches the same as the keyboard ones? I suppose you could just buy a bunch of those and they'd work the same

Are they? That's good to know. I'll have to buy some and see which I like. Probably end up sticking with Sanwa, but I'm curious to try new methods.
 
The only mods I'm able to do on a stick are changing buttons, so the first time, it was pretty difficult, but I think it'll probably be pretty easy for most people.

For me, stock Hayabusa are WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too lose, and I'm constantly missing stuff because it's not going to neutral fast enough. Tighter spring means going back to neutral quicker. It makes a huge difference for me in anime games with air dashes.

Yeah, that's my problem. Hm, might be worth a shot, as I was probably going to take it out anyway.

They seem pretty cheap so I might buy a few for the TEs I have. Do you know the part numbers for the Sanwa and the Hayabusa stick?

I would probably hit up focus attack, but can you get them elsewhere?
 
Well, Amazon is trying to charge me for mine. I was going to trade in my current USFIV TE2 towards it but couldn't find a suitable box. I don't think the trade in credit will be there in time before they cancel my order. I'm pretty sad about it but it's not the end of the world I guess.

I ordered the rivals TE2 also on Amazon. Still no charge on my credit card and the status still says "Delivery date pending". Maybe I should of just ordered it on madcatz online store. I probably would of received it by now.
 
Yeah, that's my problem. Hm, might be worth a shot, as I was probably going to take it out anyway.

They seem pretty cheap so I might buy a few for the TEs I have. Do you know the part numbers for the Sanwa and the Hayabusa stick?

I would probably hit up focus attack, but can you get them elsewhere?

I got my Hayabusa from Hori's site: http://stores.horiusa.com/hayabusa-joy-stick/, but you can get it from FA also, iirc. It's part number is HHS-032, but there's only one Hayabusa stick atm.

And the Sanwa part number is JLF-TP-8YT
 
For me, stock Hayabusa are WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too loose, and I'm constantly missing stuff because it's not going to neutral fast enough. Tighter spring means going back to neutral quicker. It makes a huge difference for me in anime games with air dashes.
Hmm, I might keep this (swapping the spring) in mind. I'll see how the stock one feels first. If I were to think about switching it, which of these is compatible?

http://www.focusattack.com/spare-parts-tools/by-part/springs/

You may or may not know this, but how much looser is the Hayabusa than the stock stick in a Fightstick TE?
 
Thanks, and sorry if unclear. I'm referring to the 2 lb. springs to make them stiffer. I already have the Sanwa and Hayabusa levers.

Oh derp, apologies. I've not seen the springs other than on FA, but I've not really looked far for them. I used to use a higher tension spring on my JLF but eventually got used to the normal stick after I replaced a JLF and forgot to put in a new spring.

I believe you can also use the same JLF spring in the Hayabusa so you won't need different springs for each lever.

Hmm, I might keep this (swapping the spring) in mind. I'll see how the stock one feels first. If I were to think about switching it, which of these is compatible?

http://www.focusattack.com/spare-parts-tools/by-part/springs/

You may or may not know this, but how much looser is the Hayabusa than the stock stick in a Fightstick TE?

I can't quantify it in numbers, but the looser feel is noticeable. It's something that's sorta hard to explain without you actually feeling it.

On that page, the "2lb tension spring for Sanwa JLF" will work on the JLF and the Hayabusa
 
Hmm, I might keep this (swapping the spring) in mind. I'll see how the stock one feels first. If I were to think about switching it, which of these is compatible?

http://www.focusattack.com/spare-parts-tools/by-part/springs/

You may or may not know this, but how much looser is the Hayabusa than the stock stick in a Fightstick TE?

They're probably about the same, but the way a loose hayabusa feels, the switches used, feel worse than a loose sanwa to me. I would guess they're .5lb springs stock.

Oh derp, apologies. I've not seen the springs other than on FA, but I've not really looked far for them. I used to use a higher tension spring on my JLF but eventually got used to the normal stick after I replaced a JLF and forgot to put in a new spring.

I believe you can also use the same JLF spring in the Hayabusa so you won't need different springs for each lever.

This is true. JLF spring fits Hayabusa.
 
What is the eight of the default Sanwa and hayabusa springs?

I read some people saying going to 2 lb made it really stiff. Is there an in-between?
 
I ordered the rivals TE2 also on Amazon. Still no charge on my credit card and the status still says "Delivery date pending". Maybe I should of just ordered it on madcatz online store. I probably would of received it by now.
Haha, I kind of wish I'd ordered later so I could get my trade in shit completed. Sigh!
 
Me playing my first SFV Match: https://youtu.be/B1xGIolN6eE

qKYwza2h.jpg

WJpYFZZh.jpg
 
I've never dismantled a stick down to the tension spring before. There's just the one to replace if I want a stiffer lever?
If any/all sticks are even remotely similar to the Hayabusa, a video I found on YT makes it look stupid simple. Just takes a few tools and a steady hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkrJZcd1FoI&t=7m39s

I'm curious to see how the default tension is on the Hayabusa. I may or may not replace the spring. Depends how it feels compared to my current joystick.
 
Anyone who needs a ps4 controller to padhack, there's a ebay store that sells broken ps4 MKX fightpads for $25 each: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391210466312

Once in a while, they will sell xbox mkx fightpads for $20 each. So people should keep a look out for when they have them.

Each time that the store sells them, the pads are sold in very limited quantity.
 
Did anybody here preorder the rivals stick on Amazon?

I had it preordered, but they weren't giving me a ship date. So I switched my preorder to the Mad Catz site, which was actually cheaper anyway, and cancelled my Amazon preorder yesterday when they still weren't giving me a ship date.
 
Anyone who needs a ps4 controller to padhack, there's a ebay store that sells broken ps4 MKX fightpads for $25 each: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391210466312

Once in a while, they will sell xbox mkx fightpads for $20 each. So people should keep a look out for when they have them.

Each time that the store sells them, the pads are sold in very limited quantity.

Awesome, just bought two. Guy that was going to wire my arcade panel fell through, and the MKX pad is supposed to be super easy to padhack. Yay. I get to keep a DS4 and a Hori FC4 that I'd bought!

Thanks for the tip!

I had it preordered, but they weren't giving me a ship date. So I switched my preorder to the Mad Catz site, which was actually cheaper anyway, and cancelled my Amazon preorder yesterday when they still weren't giving me a ship date.

Dang it. I guess I'll just keep the preorder. It's not like I'm hurting for sticks.
 
Awesome, just bought two. Guy that was going to wire my arcade panel fell through, and the MKX pad is supposed to be super easy to padhack. Yay. I get to keep a DS4 and a Hori FC4 that I'd bought!

Thanks for the tip!

They are easy to padhack by themselves. In dual or multi mods, all of their inputs require diodes to be soldered into like this:

Code:
[IMG]http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p529/chaoticmonk/mkx%20ps4%20padhack2.jpg~original[/IMG]

This only refers to the ps3/ps4 mkx fightpad. The xbox fightpads don't require diodes at all.
 
THE HAYABUSA COMETH!

...and now I'm faced with a quandary; a very stupid one. Chalk it up to me never having swapped out a joystick before. Which way is right-side up (so my directions inputs won't be backwards)? :)

IMG_1990.JPG


I also vaguely recall someone a while back saying something about flipping the connector over in a Round 1 Fightstick TE. Can anyone clarify?
 
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