Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

Ok guys I just picked up a Playstation 3 Real Arcade Pro. 3 Fighting Stick. Will this stick work with PC games like Yatagarasu and SSFIV, or even MAME or other emus? I have most of my Dreamcast games ripped to my pc since im tired of playing it on my LED tv.

I hope Sony/Capcom really are working on a patch to let PS3 sticks work.
 
I have a question. I have a Hori Fightstick VX, I know it's cheap but it is my first stick. Anyway I bought a Sanwa octagonal gate to replace the square one inside and my problem is with that. It seems the inner yellow ring on the gate has a mm or two amount of motion where it will rotate inside the clear ring. This usually happens midmatch and makes down diagonals almost impossible. Is this common with these gates? Should I just get it set where I want and dab a bit of superglue in between the rings to hold it in place? On mobile now so I can't show a pic. Stick is fine otherwise but the inner ring moving makes it extremely difficult to trigger the microswitches in the corners. I have to fight the stick as much as the opponent.
 
squadr0n said:
Ok guys I just picked up a Playstation 3 Real Arcade Pro. 3 Fighting Stick. Will this stick work with PC games like Yatagarasu and SSFIV, or even MAME or other emus? I have most of my Dreamcast games ripped to my pc since im tired of playing it on my LED tv.

I hope Sony/Capcom really are working on a patch to let PS3 sticks work.
Click to expand...

It should. PS3 sticks generally work fine on PC.
 
Okay, so the Hori RAP4 came in today. PS3/PS4 mode on PC, doesn't matter: X/O (A/B) are flipped to where X is O (A is B) and O is X (B is A). Same problem I had with the SE stick I bought last month. Uh... is this something to do with the mother board? Drivers? Something that got crossed over when I was installing the drivers?
 
TheSeks said:
Okay, so the Hori RAP4 came in today. PS3/PS4 mode on PC, doesn't matter: X/O (A/B) are flipped to where X is O (A is B) and O is X (B is A). Same problem I had with the SE stick I bought last month. Uh... is this something to do with the mother board? Drivers? Something that got crossed over when I was installing the drivers?
Click to expand...

This happened to me too on USF4. Don't know, but we can change the buttons.
 
FinKL said:
This happened to me too on USF4. Don't know, but we can change the buttons.
Click to expand...

It's not just Street 4. Ikaruga won't have Y/Triangle map to anything since "Button 4" isn't seen by it. It's shown as Gamepad 5 in that.

Edit: Well, Street 4 will see it as "Hori RAP4" within the key bindings and once flipping the buttons it works like a PS3 pad. So now the question is: Why is Ikaruga not seeing Button 4/setting the stick(s) as Gamepad 5. Weiiiird.

Hmm... well I can bind them to the bottom buttons, but button 1, Square/X will still be the confim button for Ikaruga. And button 4/Triangle, Y is still missing. Weiiird but at least it's progress and doable I guess.
 
The Flash said:
Which fight sticks would you guys recommend for someone who's never owned one before? I play KI and MKX primarily.
Click to expand...

In your case the hori rap v kai that was just announced. It is the first stick that is xb1/x360 compatible.

http://arcadeshock.com/products/hori-real-arcade-pro-v-kai-controller-xbox-one-xbox-360-pc

I would hold off on any other manufacturer like mad catz because they have to be working on a new xb1/x360 compatible version. Less so on razer because their xb1 stick is newer than mad catz and I don't think they sold nearly as many.
 
Pizarro said:
I don't recommend it. It was just made to play those Neogeo X memory stick games when you plug the handheld into the tv, not really useful for much. And it's supposedly a piece of crap. Especially compared to an actual AES stick. Unless you'll only be playing old SNK games you're better off getting an actual stick.
Click to expand...

Anything you'd recommend in a similar price range?
 
Anyone know of any places to still get HRAP3 art to print out or even a place to get like a stencil or good guide to make your own? Ive looked everywhere but most of the links are dead for the Real Arcade Pro. 3 Fighting Stick. I just want something other than the stock art.
 
On the subject of sticks, I just swapped the quiet bits out of a PS4 V5 silent into a HRAP4 Kai and I'm officially in love. Optical Hayabusa, quiet, responsive Kuro buttons and critically space for my large hands without being an unwieldy size. Just perfect. Well done Hori.

I'm so impressed that my VLX Kuro will certainly remain sealed and possibly be sold.
 
nick_b said:
I have a question. I have a Hori Fightstick VX, I know it's cheap but it is my first stick. Anyway I bought a Sanwa octagonal gate to replace the square one inside and my problem is with that. It seems the inner yellow ring on the gate has a mm or two amount of motion where it will rotate inside the clear ring. This usually happens midmatch and makes down diagonals almost impossible. Is this common with these gates? Should I just get it set where I want and dab a bit of superglue in between the rings to hold it in place? On mobile now so I can't show a pic. Stick is fine otherwise but the inner ring moving makes it extremely difficult to trigger the microswitches in the corners. I have to fight the stick as much as the opponent.
Click to expand...

The gate moving around in your stick is definitely not common, but the octagonal gate does have less area to trigger diagonal inputs.
Here's a comparison between the octagonal gate and square gate.
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/restrictors/octagon_gate.png

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/restrictors/square_gate2.png
 
leroidys said:
Anything you'd recommend in a similar price range?
Click to expand...
I don't think so. When people get their first stick usually they go for something deemed good quality (from my observations). If it doesn't matter and you think the Neogeo X stick looks cool, go for it (though as Oneida said you wont be able to use it for Capcom games, KI or skullgirls and it's probably overpriced crap). If you want a worthwhile stick you might find a Madcatz TE somewhere in the neighborhood of 100-120 or a Hori from $80. I think the TE sticks are sanwa parts which are up there as the best quality along with Seimitsu and probably some Korean parts nobody uses. Hori sticks I think have a Sanwa stick and Hori buttons, which people usually replace with those other buttons. It's easy though, and the 8 or so buttons will run you like 20 bucks.
 
nick_b said:
I have a question. I have a Hori Fightstick VX, I know it's cheap but it is my first stick. Anyway I bought a Sanwa octagonal gate to replace the square one inside and my problem is with that. It seems the inner yellow ring on the gate has a mm or two amount of motion where it will rotate inside the clear ring. This usually happens midmatch and makes down diagonals almost impossible. Is this common with these gates? Should I just get it set where I want and dab a bit of superglue in between the rings to hold it in place? On mobile now so I can't show a pic. Stick is fine otherwise but the inner ring moving makes it extremely difficult to trigger the microswitches in the corners. I have to fight the stick as much as the opponent.
Click to expand...
just change back to square gate it's what everyone uses
 
oneida said:
just change back to square gate it's what everyone uses
Click to expand...

I probably will. I got the octagonal to ease the transition from pad to stick. Now that I see lots of people are using the square I may need to suck it up and git gud. That is what fighting games are all about anyway.

I am interested to see impressions on the RAP V Kai when it is released. I may need to bite the bullet and get an "actual" stick when SF5 releases. I got the VX because it was 60 bucks. Worth it over using a pad IMO.
 
I'm looking into getting an Xbone stick, and I'm wondering if I should get the Razer or Madcatz stick. I've heard similar things about both, and the Razer one looks like it has the most wrist room, which is really important to me (it's the main problem I have with my HORI stick). Plus, it's actually available in a store nearby, so I wouldn't have to order it.
 
Heck yeah. Checked Amazon last night and found they had the HRAP 4 Kai back in stock. It seems to be the cheapest way to get the stick into Australia (local stores only stock the Venom stick for like $200, or the TE2 for like $350. Venom looks like cheap garbage, and I am not paying $350 for a TE2), so I ordered a stick for myself, and one for my fighting game buddy.

Can't wait, have been slumming it with Persona 4 Arena Ultimax and GG Xrd with a pad, which sucked after spending the last few years playing fighters with a stick on the 360.
 
After a day, I really like everything about the Kai except for the stick itself. What's the difference between the Kai stick and a MCZ stick, and can you stick a MCZ stick in the Kai, or what's the closest thing to it if you can't?
 
alstein said:
After a day, I really like everything about the Kai except for the stick itself. What's the difference between the Kai stick and a MCZ stick, and can you stick a MCZ stick in the Kai, or what's the closest thing to it if you can't?
Click to expand...

You can swap the stock hayabusa lever for any standard sanwa jlf or seimitsu ls series lever so long as it has a 5-pin terminal.

Most MCZ sticks use the Sanwa JLF lever.
 
Unit24 said:
I'm looking into getting an Xbone stick, and I'm wondering if I should get the Razer or Madcatz stick. I've heard similar things about both, and the Razer one looks like it has the most wrist room, which is really important to me (it's the main problem I have with my HORI stick). Plus, it's actually available in a store nearby, so I wouldn't have to order it.
Click to expand...

You're probably not going to get a lot of folks recommending Razer just because of the Momochi Evo incident but I finally got to use one (xb1 version) and I was surprised! I like it so much more than the TE2.

For $200, the TE2 unfortunately feels cheap, especially compared to its predecessor. The atrox on the other hand feels like a $200 stick. From the rubber pad on the bottom to the plexi used, the atrox materials are just better. The top panel feels sturdy and solid on the atrox, while it feels like it is slightly moving up & down on the te2. The atrox panel might be a little too solid. Even though it has this nice gas strut, when you close it, it slams down, and there is a really high chance you can catch your finger if you are not careful. It's a tradeoff but I still prefer the heavier atrox panel.

Where the TE2 is superior is customization of its panels and bezels. So if you are into that then go TE2 because you can't change anything on the atrox. I also like the anchor points for attaching a shoulder strap. It's actually pretty convenient.

Razer changed the usb connection on the xb1 version from the 360 version for the better. It is now the same locking connector as a TE2, so that Momochi incident would not happen on the xb1 version.

Also in regards to your main criteria, wrist space is similar but the atrox feels better because it is one piece. You can feel the bezel on the TE2, which could be bothersome.
 
shaunLEGEND said:
For $200, the TE2 unfortunately feels cheap, especially compared to its predecessor. The atrox on the other hand feels like a $200 stick. From the rubber pad on the bottom to the plexi used, the atrox materials are just better. The top panel feels sturdy and solid on the atrox, while it feels like it is slightly moving up & down on the te2.
Click to expand...

Agree 100%. I have a 360 Atrox, an XB1 Atrox, a KI TE2 and a 360 Ultra TE2 in front of me right now. Both Atrox sticks feel WAY more sturdy and I can't imagine how anyone would think otherwise. The top panel on both TE2s is flimsy and does not close/mate well to the base. In terms of easy-open construction the Atrox wins.

Now... the customization on the other hand is why I'm keeping one of the TE2s. Bezels, side panels, LED PCBs.... all fun stuff :)
 
Where... the F**K... is the damn terminal for the LED board?! Gah! It's completely missing on this Ultra TE2.

I quit

IMG_20150808_144819.jpg
Click to expand...
 
mdsfx said:
Now... the customization on the other hand is why I'm keeping one of the TE2s. Bezels, side panels, LED PCBs.... all fun stuff :)
Click to expand...

PREACH. Yeah, that's like half the fun for me. It keeps things fresh and I like being able to personalize as much as I want. Sorry to hear about the 360 TE2 LED troubles. At this point, I'm pretty sure it's not compatible. Have you asked mad catz?

Also I noticed you are selling your flush plexi? what?!? why? Don't do it. #instantregret #masochist lol
 
When it comes to the hayabusa joystick, I usually switch the default actuator with kowal 1mm one. Sometimes, I would even replace the shaft and e clips as well, since the hayabusa ones are complete shit.

The very first hayabusa that I had a problem. Its shaft was almost glued to its balltop. The bottom of the shaft got really bad.

Once in a while when I get a new hayabusa, the kowal would not even fit inside due to the shaft's length being off somehow, so I would just use a sanwa shaft in the hayabusa body. It happened recently with the fourth VS fightstick that I working on now.
 
Cyst_m said:
Finished up my Kai. Swapped in Sanwa buttons, plexi from Art's Hobbies.
Click to expand...

really nice work. I've been spending some time with photoshop working on a design for mine. It's a good learning experience because I don't have much experience with the software.
 
Looks like I should dig up some nice art for my new stick no idea what I should go with, though. My old stick had tekken characters so maybe I should go 2D, or even something non-fighting game all-together. The design will have to work with the default TE2 parts as no way am I throwing them away while they're brand new.

oneida said:
That Ryu render is gonna make its way onto more sticks than Megaman haha
Click to expand...

Heh.
 
Got an XB1 with the Bestbuy deal. Finally going to use my cronusmax for something. :D'

Updated to CronusPro and my ps3 fightingedge works well enough.
 
I got in the 2 lb springs I ordered and put one in a Hayabusa. Holy hell was that little metal clip keeping that actuator on a nightmare to take off/on. I guess I didn't have good tools.

Anyway, night and day difference in feel me. Seems to help double-tapping, and more precise, but feels so stiff. I feel like my arm is gonna get tied needing a lot more effort. Maybe too much so. I think maybe 1.5lb would be the sweet spot, except I didn't order those and I dread taking those clips off again.

I'll probably give them a shot because right now I'm too ocd to have sticks with that much variance.
 
Don't have the cash right now to shell out for a plexi, so I made some very temporary art and stuck it on the corner of the stick to personalize the HRAP 4 Kai I got from the Fry's sale.

WIQJYii.png


I also swapped the Kuros for the silent Sanwas on my old Xbox 360 stick. I can't go back to loud buttons anymore, lol.

I don't even have a PS4 yet, but since most tournaments seem like they're gonna be run on PS4 in the future, I decided just to get a PS4 stick and use a Titan One to play on my Xbox One at home.
 
I'm thinking of making my own arcade stick. I can do the shell with the measurements at my work but pcbs?

Let's say I get a PCB to connect to both a PS3 and a 360.


What would I need to do to upgrade it to PS4 and One level or are there PCBs like that already?
 
If you want just 360/PS3 go with a PS360+. It has screw in terminals so you don't need to know how to solder.

If you want a quad mod, you're probably best off with two MKX pads, Xbox and PS systems. But you'll need to know how to solder. You'll want a physical switch to change between the systems too.
 
notworksafe said:
If you want just 360/PS3 go with a PS360+. It has screw in terminals so you don't need to know how to solder.

If you want a quad mod, you're probably best off with two MKX pads, Xbox and PS systems. But you'll need to know how to solder. You'll want a physical switch to change between the systems too.
Click to expand...
I was reading up on that but how does that work you know what I mean? You have any video or guide link?
 
Just got my TE2 stick! Seems to be working fine. Unfortunately the plexi and the plastic border around it got scratched a bit during shipping.
 
pizzacat said:
I was reading up on that but how does that work you know what I mean? You have any video or guide link?
Click to expand...

I've haven't quad modded any of my sticks so I'm not sure on the exact process. I doubt there's a guide out there yet but who knows. However I imagine you could just use an Imp PCB to switch between the two pads.

Tech Talk on SRK is kind of a shitshow now but if you scan around there or ask in the Q&A thread someone will probably give you a quick rundown

EDIT: I'd forgotten about the Crossbone. This might be something to look at when paired with a PS360+ -- http://forums.shoryuken.com/discuss...e-significantly-easier-for-the-madcatz-te2/p1
 
pizzacat said:
I was reading up on that but how does that work you know what I mean? You have any video or guide link?
Click to expand...

The "best" option, meaning the least troublesome, would be to hack an MKX pad for PS4 and Xbone (since they also switch to their previous gen cohorts) using an IMP for autodetection. You could then wire a DPDT switch or something similar to the case and wire both of the respective system selection switches to it and just label them like "old gen, new gen" or something, since it would be functioning the same way for each system.

I could diagram it out if I have some time aft work during lunch or something.
 
Anyone have any good template/examples for panel art with multiple panels? I was hoping do use Captain Blue for my new stick but it's impossible to find high-res Viewtiful Joe art so I'm instead going to stick multiple character art on it.
 
So uh... is there something you're supposed to do first before an Xbone stick will work? Because I hooked up my razer stick and it's doing nothing.

Nevermind, it worked when I restarted the system.
 
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