Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
notworksafe
Member
Not hard at all. You just screw wires into the terminals and put quick disconnects onto the other end. If you are especially lazy you can buy a set of wires with QDs on them already.
But what about the wires that are already connected to the Onyx's PCB? Most of my modding experience is with swapping out buttons, gates, sticks, art, etc.
notworksafe
Member
What about them? Just take out the whole PCB.
I forgot, you'll need a USB cable too, but that's like $2 at monoprice
I forgot, you'll need a USB cable too, but that's like $2 at monoprice
And screw it back in? The new quad-modded PCB looks to be a bit bigger than the old one. Granted, the Onyx's case has enough space to accommodate, but I'm a bit worried about messing up the wood. Either way, I've been needing a new PCB for a while considering that my current one triggers the Start button at the weirdest times.
Can I put one of these in my original TE and SE sticks or will I need to buy new parts to make it work?
Edit: Also, are Brook products generally good quality? I don't want to buy two and have them fail on me after a month.
Link?
ShadowSoldier89
Member
new hayabusa buttons seem interesting, though I dunno if I'll ever get off of Sanwas, especially now that Ive started customizing
though Sanwa's fragile as hell clips are annoying, I like my screw in sanwas better
though Sanwa's fragile as hell clips are annoying, I like my screw in sanwas better
irfaanator
Banned
oh damn didnt know the panzer og was available for sale right now. limited time. Might pick this up since it doesnt seem like it will be available again. 130 for the case.
Picked one up before I regret it later
Picked one up before I regret it later
I'm more interested in the shape and size though. Sanwa is ok but I prefer Seimitsu for the joystick, maybe the buttons too since I hear these Hori buttons are similar to a certain Seimitsu button. If he could fit Sanwa buttons in it I'm sure Seimitsus can fit in as well, no clue about the joystick though.
If your wires are thick/stiff enough (and if you don't wire it up too loosely) they might be enough to hold it in place without bracing. Otherwise you could do something ghetto like minimal mounting points screwing to where ever you can, or zip tying to stuff.
Anyway tech details by the Jasen's Customs guy:
http://www.thesupergun.com/electrical/brook-universal-fighting-board-technical-findings/
...but his page is apparently getting hammered so he posted on the SRK forums:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10556404/#Comment_10556404
Basically it works and is as fast as the fastest boards/sticks, but can't be updated to work with older systems like the PS360+.
Which brings me to my next question. My Eightarc Onyx has a detachable male USB port. How do I get around that with the new PCB?
notworksafe
Member
Been a while since I worked with an Eightarc but can't you just connect a USB cable from the PCB to the port and continue to use the port normally?
If not you could always use a Neutrik USB adapter.
If not you could always use a Neutrik USB adapter.
I'm looking inside the stick & the wire that leads to the detachable USB port is stripped & connected to the PCB on the other end.
Guys i need help.
I've got an wireless hori arcade stick for my ps3 (the tekken one). I like it, but there's notable lag on the ps4 with USFIV. I'm planning on buying the RAP4-Kai, but i want it to play on my xbone too. I know there are things like a cronusmax and titan one (can't get brooks in my country).
What should i do, get a cronusmax or a titan one? if any?
I've got an wireless hori arcade stick for my ps3 (the tekken one). I like it, but there's notable lag on the ps4 with USFIV. I'm planning on buying the RAP4-Kai, but i want it to play on my xbone too. I know there are things like a cronusmax and titan one (can't get brooks in my country).
What should i do, get a cronusmax or a titan one? if any?
notworksafe
Member
Then you'll probably have to replace it with a Neutrik USB passthrough. NAUSB-W is the normal one used for that
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Any pics? My main concern is just the size at this point. If it's close to Dreamcast Green Goblin size or the 360 DoA stick, I can rock with it.
If you have soldering skills it looks like there's solder points for the USB connection. Assuming there's nothing weird going on internally with the USB cable you should be able to just cut the original wires then solder to the Brook board.
Another method to keep the original port would be to splice the original wires to a cut USB cord, then just plug that into the Brook board (if you don't want to solder anything directly to the board).
Then as mentioned there's the Neutrik port where you just replace the original port. Switchcraft is another option (may or may not fit that case better for all I know), I'm sure there's a bunch others if you look around.
Or the ghetto method where you just don't bother with the detachable cord anymore and use a long cable permanently attached directly to the board.
The problem is that there's already a cut-out for the USB port. While my stick is black, this should give you a general idea of what I have to work with.
ShooterMcTavish
Banned
Should I get the te2 or te2 plus, what is the verdict on the two?
They're basically the same, it's just that the TE2+ has a touchpad as well as L3 & R3 buttons. Certain games use those buttons for bonus stuff (like quick reset via the touchpad in MKX). USF4 uses the touchpad for the Trial Mode & details on moves.
No kidding, that's a great-sized (looking) stick. Wonder if the parts it comes with are serviceable or warrant a replacement right away.
Also, availability in Australia. Probably still be expensive :/
Well the solder/splice wire option would still work there, otherwise it's hard to tell from there whether a replacement port would fit properly.
One thing that might be annoying is that white wire bundle that goes to the little buttons on the top panel. If there's no labels on the PCB or some obvious way to tell which wire is what you'll have to do some guesswork and experimentation to figure that out...or I bet someone on SRK has already figured all that out and made a guide.
The white wire bundle is for the player numbers & the mode lights.
I'm hoping MarkMan sees this as I'm very interested in purchasing the TE2+ after selling my original TE2 due to the following issues;
-Weak plexi that is not flush with the top panel and constantly wobbles during gameplay.
-Top panel not being flush with the side panels, makes creaking noises when pressure is applied.
-Weak hinges that get damaged over time.
If ALL of these issues have been rectified then I'll place a pre-order right now.
-Weak plexi that is not flush with the top panel and constantly wobbles during gameplay.
-Top panel not being flush with the side panels, makes creaking noises when pressure is applied.
-Weak hinges that get damaged over time.
If ALL of these issues have been rectified then I'll place a pre-order right now.
The plexi has been fixed as of the Chun-Li TE2.
Cindi Mayweather
Member
The same? TE2 looks fucking huge, dude. I played on a TE the other day and I can't imagine going bigger.
notworksafe
Member
I bought mine used for $150 so take that how you will. That had all stock parts though.
Agreed. TE2 takes the size just a bit too big for me personally.
Pause.
Cindi Mayweather
Member
Yeah, saying they're the same? Naw.
And your secret is with me, NWS. 😉
Speaking of size and weight, how do I make it so that the arcade stick doesn't feel too heavy on my knees after a while? Of course, it was a regular TE with no comfortable back panels for knee comfort, but still.
And your secret is with me, NWS. 😉
Speaking of size and weight, how do I make it so that the arcade stick doesn't feel too heavy on my knees after a while? Of course, it was a regular TE with no comfortable back panels for knee comfort, but still.
notworksafe
Member
My solution was to get a lighter stick lol. But some cushion pads on the bottom really go a long way imo and are pretty cheap to get somewhere like Michaels.
Other solution is to be that person that needs a table or sits on the floor with the stick in front of them. That was me back when I only used my MAS stick.
Other solution is to be that person that needs a table or sits on the floor with the stick in front of them. That was me back when I only used my MAS stick.
Cindi Mayweather
Member
Well it was a regular TE and had no cushions. We'll see when I get my TES+.
notworksafe
Member
I've had friends who replaced the metal panels on their sticks with plastic to reduce weight, but then they had the issue of the stick sliding around so they put grip tape on the bottom lol
brightsons
Member
Thanks for the heads up, can finally replace the ps3 pcb in my stick that I built many years ago and not have to buy a new stick for SFV.
sixteen-bit
Member
any details on this by the way in terms of teardown and walkthrough? is it a simple parts swap, or will you need to drill the case to mount an arcade-spec lever, etc?
do you know if this PCB will need FWUs? when say the ps4 changes FWs?
if it does not then im in!
There has not been any specific reports of FWUs being needed or not needed. I would think not since the pcb is presented as not having 8 minute timeouts.
Also, Jensen is not selling them, but he tested one out for awhile can gave his impressions on it at Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jasenscustoms/posts/1949598941932785
notworksafe
Member
depends how it is done. if the pcb is using some loophole in the ps4 authentication process sony might patch that loophole in the future.
This is what I'm worried about. It happened with the brook adapter. True, the fixed it very fast, but my worry is that it might not always be that fast, or even possible, to fix the issue.
Not that I've seen. He did respond to that tweet and say that you'd need to solder or crimp quick disconnects for the sanwa buttons.
yah us peeps that have to many legacy sticks need to learn to solder wires
sixteen-bit
Member
Not liking the sound of that considering the price tag. The old SF4 SE sticks had it right with the simple QDs outta the box.
Interested in furter impressions tho.