Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

Dominican Power said:
Qanba is coming at MadCatz's neck right now. MadCatz is basically done after this gen.
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Well deserved if so. Their sticks this gen and their Rock Band controllers have been hot garbage in terms of quality.

Speaking of failing PCBs, I just pulled out my TES+ in pristine condition with hardly any use that has been sitting in my closet, and the stick is permantly registering right once I move the stick. It literally failed by sitting unused. I found people with the same problem online. It's not a mechanical issue either.

Already preorderd that Obsidian too. Guess I'll have a shell and parts in case I ever want to get one of those Brook PCBs. (if they even fit).
 
notworksafe said:
PCB issue on it can lead to missed/dropped inputs and problems connecting/staying connected to the console.

The cheapest way to get a PS3 stick to work on PS4 is with a Brook adapter for £35. They don't have lag and are allowed at tournaments but you will a PC/Mac to update the firmware on it if needed.
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/brook-ps3-to-ps4-controller-adapter.html

The main PCB replacement is also a Brook, their Universal PCB which gives PS3/PS4/360/X1/PC and requires no solder. That will be around £80 but I wasn't able to find it in stock in a couple UK shops so you might have to wait for that to come back in stock
Click to expand...

Thanks for info and advice.
 
Edzi said:
the fact that I "fixed" my TE2+ last night (Stupid issue with how the wires were set up by MadCatz that I should have noticed earlier, though it remains to be seen if this one also has the board problem my original had)
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Could you elaborate on what you did? Just curious.
 
Nuu said:
Could you elaborate on what you did? Just curious.
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It's really dumb, but the way they set up the wires had them too close to the stick when you closed the case, so it would periodically get stuck on the wires and mess with inputs. The original stick I had replaced had the well known PCB issue, and I haven't used this one enough to know if it has that problem as well.
 
Tripon said:
Again, the complaints about Madcatz right now are the TE2+, and the TE+. Those PCBs are fucked. They switched to a new PCB that shortened the input lag, but also seem to cause higher failure rates.

I'm glad that you seem to have no problems with your sticks, but that doesn't disprove that there haven't been issues with Madcatz's current sticks, just that you have been lucky with a good pcb.
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I'm not saying they don't have issues, but I don't think they are as widespread as the discussion suggests. Telling people to expect to pay repair and return fees if they buy a MadCatz product is a little extreme in my opinion.
 
mdsfx said:
I'm not saying they don't have issues, but I don't think they are as widespread as the discussion suggests. Telling people to expect to pay repair and return fees if they buy a MadCatz product is a little extreme in my opinion.
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I would have said the same thing had I not just had the experience with the post above. My stick was as close to new as you could get, just sitting around, and it failed with no use.
 
mdsfx said:
I've never had a problem with Mad Catz sticks and through the years I've owned quite a few:

Original TE (multiple)
TES (black)
Comic Con TE
Killer Instinct TE2
Guilty Gear TE2
Fight Stick Alpha
TE2+

I own just an original TE (360) now which I bought from another member recently. I love it.
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I never had a problem with Madcatz sticks until my TE2+. PCB issues caused me to return it and get a new one. Haven't been using it much recently due to the fact that I don't want to run the risk of it busting again. My original TE from launch still worksgreat almost 8 years later.
 
Hellshingu said:
I never had a problem with Madcatz sticks until my TE2+. PCB issues caused me to return it and get a new one. Haven't been using it much recently due to the fact that I don't want to run the risk of it busting again. My original TE from launch still worksgreat almost 8 years later.
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I don't think using it matters as I noted above. Mine was sitting for months since my last use, and didn't work immediately upon using it again.
 
It sucks. I got the RAP4 Kai and while I like its lightweightness abd the Hayabusha stick, I prefer the design of the TE2+. Unfortunately, I don't want to stick with the new one I get in fear of that it might poop out on me.

If new TE2+'s were proven to be reliable tgat would be one thing, but I haven't heard much about later manufactured ones.
 
Nuu said:
It sucks. I got the RAP4 Kai and while I like its lightweightness abd the Hayabusha stick, I prefer the design of the TE2+. Unfortunately, I don't want to stick with the new one I get in fear of that it might poop out on me.

If new TE2+'s were proven to be reliable tgat would be one thing, but I haven't heard much about later manufactured ones.
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You just need to get used to it. Don't like the diagonals on the hayabusa. Stick doesn't return to neutral fast enough. Hori needs to revise it and make improvements.


Why not get the new Razer Panthera or Qanba Obsidian
 
Nuu said:
It sucks. I got the RAP4 Kai and while I like its lightweightness abd the Hayabusha stick, I prefer the design of the TE2+. Unfortunately, I don't want to stick with the new one I get in fear of that it might poop out on me.

If new TE2+'s were proven to be reliable tgat would be one thing, but I haven't heard much about later manufactured ones.
Click to expand...

TE2+ seems like a gamble, but there do seem to be a good chunk of people who don't have issues. Just depends on how much of a risk you're willing to take. The one I currently have is fine, but who knows how long that will last.

If you really like the form factor, you could buy one and then replace the board if it starts acting up.
 
Dominican Power said:
You just need to get used to it. Don't like the diagonals on the hayabusa. Stick doesn't return to neutral fast enough. Hori needs to revise it and make improvements.
Click to expand...

Yeah. I didn't like the stick for those reasons, and swapped it out, but I quite like the textured Hayabusa buttons.
 
2n2 said:
I don't think using it matters as I noted above. Mine was sitting for months since my last use, and didn't work immediately upon using it again.
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Same thing happened to my first one. I didn't use it for about 2 weeks since I had just gotten a HRAP4. My L2 button was always being pressed even when I went inside the stick and disconnected it from the button. Couldn't even use "X" to get into menus.

Dominican Power said:
You just need to get used to it. Don't like the diagonals on the hayabusa. Stick doesn't return to neutral fast enough. Hori needs to revise it and make improvements.
Click to expand...

Put in a 2lb spring that you can buy for 50 cents and your problem is solved.
 
Hellshingu said:
Put in a 2lb spring that you can buy for 50 cents and your problem is solved.
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I had tried a couple stiffer springs, and my personal take is that 2lb may a bit too stiff coming from Sanwas. It was almost too big of a jump in stiffness, especially for a stick with a light base. I'd recommend a 1.5 lb spring if you're OK with the default Sanwa stiffness. I still ended up switching for a Sanwa, though.
 
I have Hori V3 stick for ps3 that I want to use to play Street Fighter V and I'm wondering if I should play using a Brook ps3/ps4 converter or just play with legacy option in menus? Which will give less input lag? My Brook converter is the yellow one that does ps3 to ps4 and vice versa in case that makes a difference
 
So remember that Hori RAP4 I purchased with the supposedly broken door?

Turns out that the door isn't broken at all. It just popped off and duder didn't know how to properly put it back in.
 
Alright, now that I've tried out MadCatz, Qanba, and Hori sticks, I've decided I'm going to stick with my HRAPV. Time to sell off everything else.
 
You know what, I change my mind. I LOVE the Kuro buttons.

The thing is though, I want custom artwork for my stick, that includes clear buttons.

But I can't find Kuro clear push buttons anywhere. :(

Would I be able to buy Sanwa clear buttons and then take the tops off the buttons and put them on top of the Kuro's? Or will that not work?
 
Nuu said:
You know what, I change my mind. I LOVE the Kuro buttons.

The thing is though, I want custom artwork for my stick, that includes clear buttons.

But I can't find Kuro clear push buttons anywhere. :(

Would I be able to buy Sanwa clear buttons and then take the tops off the buttons and put them on top of the Kuro's? Or will that not work?
Click to expand...

Kuros are old and were replaced by the Hayabusa buttons since people didn't like them.
 
Nuu said:
They have clear Sanwas too.

What buttons are the Kuro's most similar too?

The buttons my TE2+ feel to "fat" now. The lighter, the better.
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Hori's Hayabusa buttons are probably the lightest I've felt. TE2+ has Sanwas though, which are already lighter feeling than Seimitsus and similar (imo) to the Hayabusas.
 
Man, the Obsidian looks and sound so nice.

Why can't more sticks use the noir layout. :/ VLX layout has such little space between buttons and sticks. I hate that it's standard.
 
Before

Hori.jpg


Hori2.jpg



After






A few during photos here...
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/130349/super-famicom-hori-fighting-stick
 
I dug out my stick out after it not getting used for months and the lever kept on sticking in the down directions. At first I thought it was the dust cover not sliding properly, but the problem persisted after it was removed.

Any idea what's the likely cause?

FYI it's a Seimitsu Ls-40 if that's any help.
 
Neoxon said:
Looks like down-back is starting to act up for both of my JLFs. I guess now's as good of a time as any to get a new one.
Click to expand...

I got a PS4 HRAP with hayabusa buttons and a TES+ just chilling, if you can pay shipping (and maybe wait until after the holidays) PM me and I'll hook you up
 
mauldie said:
Interested in the Qanba obsidian. Any chance they'll make that stick without the LEDs?
Click to expand...

Not at this time.

Let me know if there are any questions about any of the new Qanba products!

In fact, let me know if there are any questions about the Razer Panthera as well.

...

and Mad Catz products....

and Hori products.

lol.
 
MarkMan said:
Not at this time.

Let me know if there are any questions about any of the new Qanba products!

In fact, let me know if there are any questions about the Razer Panthera as well.

...

and Mad Catz products....

and Hori products.

lol.
Click to expand...

hey I got a question since I got a dragon on order

does it fit in the guardian stick bag? reading the dimensions on the dragon and the guardian bag it sounds like it might not
 
MarkMan said:
Not at this time.

Let me know if there are any questions about any of the new Qanba products!

In fact, let me know if there are any questions about the Razer Panthera as well.

...

and Mad Catz products....

and Hori products.

lol.
Click to expand...
How easy is it to mod the Obsidian? Want to install a new lever when I get it.
 
Wallach said:
hey I got a question since I got a dragon on order

does it fit in the guardian stick bag? reading the dimensions on the dragon and the guardian bag it sounds like it might not
Click to expand...

It'll "fit" but honestly, not worth sticking it in there. I would much rather get the Arcade Shock XL transporter to lug it around. It's not as big as the VLX but it is heavier.

Tripon said:
How easy is it to mod the Obsidian? Want to install a new lever when I get it.
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It's easy to mod. Just have to open it up (doesn't have easy access opening) -- so you'll need to work the good old screwdriver/elbow grease.
 
This pic makes it look like there's some padding there but its hard to tell

Code: 
[IMG]https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/d90a4/products/1498/images/8829/qb-obsidian-bottom-front__18860.1480644908.1280.1280.jpg?c=2[/IMG]
 
his issue sounds more like an issue with the stick pcb/microswitches which isn't that much cheaper than just buying a new JLF, and he is using a six year old JLF from another conversation we had so he's due for a new one anyway.

also no, the silent doesn't last any appreciable amount longer than the normal JLF
 
So here I am pricing out parts and looking at would cost me to build a stick or hitbox, which happened various times when I played SF IV and I never went through with it. And now I've got a bit of an hitch again to play new fighters that made me look at building one.

The main part I'm having hard time pricing and figuring out is the PCB. Back in the SF4 days people seemed to go for the Cthulhu family of PCBs along with a few other options. Now I'm seeing the Brook boards seem to be the most mass produced ones, but I'm having an hard time finding them stocked within the EU. Are these the only viable option?

Anyone know of any shop that stocks these or other alternatives that are good? The main platform I'm targeting is PC, with consoles as "nice to have" (depending on price difference).

I'm guessing PC should have more options of PCBs, but don't want to end up a shoddy one that misses inputs or something of the sort, even though I'm a very low level player. I'm not even sure if these "encoders" I see in some listings would play nice with modern games or are mainly targeted at MAME arcades etc..
 
notworksafe said:
shadaloo has it in stock fwiw: http://www.shadaloo.eu/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=281

brook is THE option if you want full console and PC compatibility, yes. but if you are mainly targeting PC you can use anything, even an old cthulu though that would leave you out of the loop on ps4/x1. heck a ps360 is a cheaper (~50 euro) option that works well for PC and it works on ps4, albeit with an 8 minute timeout.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link and input. I completely forgot Shadaloo as a shop. Is there a good repository/list of stores by region?

It's too bad the brook universal is so expensive, maybe a by-product of not much competition. Less places seem to stock the smaller board without Microsoft consoles.

Would a Chimp, which I understand is just a Cthulhu + Imp, detect as direct input on PC, XInput only if hooked up to a 360 controller? Less of an issue now that Capcom has introduced DirectInput into SFV. I don't know what people were doing before, using mapping software to either XInput or keyboard I presume?
 
xptoxyz said:
Thanks for the link and input. I completely forgot Shadaloo as a shop. Is there a good repository/list of stores by region?

It's too bad the brook universal is so expensive, maybe a by-product of not much competition. Less places seem to stock the smaller board without Microsoft consoles.

Would a Chimp, which I understand is just a Cthulhu + Imp, detect as direct input on PC, XInput only if hooked up to a 360 controller? Less of an issue now that Capcom has introduced DirectInput into SFV. I don't know what people were doing before, using mapping software to either XInput or keyboard I presume?
Click to expand...

That is exactly how a Chimp would work, correct. And yeah people were using awful padmapping software for Dinput on SFV previously, though I believe there was also an MCZ driver that added Xinput to their sticks as well.

If we were able to edit the OP it would be nice to keep shop info there.
 
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