Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

So I want to buy the LS-40-01 as it looks perfect for what I want it for, that being short throw and having multipble gates out of the box. Are these generally hard to find? Because I can't find a single place in Australia that sells them. Don't want to have to pony up exhorbatent shipping costs combined with out horrific dollar :/
 
nkz said:
Can you loosen the hinges on the inside to fix the issue or the creaking at least? Someone posted here that helped.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will try to loose the hinges in the evening.

Loosening the screws of the side panel did not help.
Unmounting the side panel from the case though, fixed the problem (but thats not the desired solution ^^).
 
Ilmyr said:
I bought a Madcatz TE2 (Chun-li) Fightstick 2 months ago and i'm not too happy with it:

The top side slightly bends outside, so it doesn't align properly when the top side is closed. (meaning that there is some space between the top side and the side panel) Everytime when i put some pressure on it, it moves down slightly and does a creaking sound. Its caused when it touches the side panel and its quite annoying. The only thing i can do is to demount the side panel.

Does anyone have the same problem with the TE2?

Considering the facts that this input device costs 250€, which was quite expensive for me, it makes me a bit unhappy! :'(
Click to expand...

That's an issue with every single TE2, including the TE2+. The only thing that can be done to rectify it is apparently loosen the hinges that control the top panel, but I'm not even sure how to accomplish that. If you loosen them, however, the top won't stay open unless you open it up all the way.

And I agree that it's super duper fucking annoying and shoddy craftsmanship for a product as expensive as the TE2.
 
Ilmyr said:
I bought a Madcatz TE2 (Chun-li) Fightstick 2 months ago and i'm not too happy with it:

The top side slightly bends outside, so it doesn't align properly when the top side is closed. (meaning that there is some space between the top side and the side panel) Everytime when i put some pressure on it, it moves down slightly and does a creaking sound. Its caused when it touches the side panel and its quite annoying. The only thing i can do is to demount the side panel.

Does anyone have the same problem with the TE2?

Considering the facts that this input device costs 250€, which was quite expensive for me, it makes me a bit unhappy! :'(
Click to expand...
yea as the user above me said they all do that and its super fucking annoying. I've been recommending against the TE2 ever since I got it
 
Ilmyr said:
Can you recommend the Madcatz Fightstick TE S+?
Or any other good fightstick that can be used with PC and optionally PS3/PS4?
Click to expand...
TES+ is probably fine, but I havent used it. I like Hori sticks for their cases. An HRAP4Hayabusa with sanwa buttons swapped in would be my favorite, but its been out of print for a while and the newer hori's arent as good.

I have an HRAP3SA which is basically the same as what I described, except no PS4 compatibility. I plan on upgrading it to PS4 eventually, but for now Im using my arcade cabinet and TE2(bleh)
 
Sorry for the sort of offtopic question, but my googling skills didn't help.

For some reason I hadn't realized until today that the xbox guide button on my 360 TE isn't recognized on Windows. It's not that it doesn't work, but for the default driver that button doesn't exist. Is there an alternative driver for MC sticks anywhere?
 
I'd forgotten how good a TE feels. It just feels so much more solid than the TE2.

I love my TE2, and prefer the size, but I think the TE FEELS better to play on. Super sad I can't fit a Hayabusa into it.
 
So apparently the original TE1 PCB is the laggiest official product ever released. Tests put it at like 17ms. Not to mention it's PS3 only (no PS2 classics support).

Is the best option to move the TE1 over to a PS360+? What about a Brook PCB? Just not sure the best way to get a PS4 stick with no lag.

I have given up the dream of a 2p stick for now as the only things that look good are the Sega HSS-0130 or 2 SFxT Vs. sticks and a bracket. BLAZE Twin is pretty much missing from the internet but I would gladly use that as a mod-base too.

@$500ish for the HSS-0130, I feel like maybe a DIY Vewlix would be the way to go. The other option is to see if Jon Bonilla aka Jony Fraze has a more detailed how-to on his Ikea MICKE Astrocity hack. This thing is awesome and is basically good enough for my needs. It's gotta be a fraction of work vs. a Vewlix DIY or cost of a Kraylix pre-cut.

 
CrashPrime said:
So apparently the original TE1 PCB is the laggiest official product ever released. Tests put it at like 17ms. Not to mention it's PS3 only (no PS2 classics support).

Is the best option to move the TE1 over to a PS360+? What about a Brook PCB? Just not sure the best way to get a PS4 stick with no lag.

I have given up the dream of a 2p stick for now as the only things that look good are the Sega HSS-0130 or 2 SFxT Vs. sticks and a bracket. BLAZE Twin is pretty much missing from the internet but I would gladly use that as a mod-base too.

@$500ish for the HSS-0130, I feel like maybe a DIY Vewlix would be the way to go. The other option is to see if Jon Bonilla aka Jony Fraze has a more detailed how-to on his Ikea MICKE Astrocity hack. This thing is awesome and is basically good enough for my needs. It's gotta be a fraction of work vs. a Vewlix DIY or cost of a Kraylix pre-cut.
Click to expand...
any PCB with with screw terminals is super easy. Brook multiconsole for $90, or brook fighting board with paradise breakout for $50
 
Ogawa-san said:
Sorry for the sort of offtopic question, but my googling skills didn't help.

For some reason I hadn't realized until today that the xbox guide button on my 360 TE isn't recognized on Windows. It's not that it doesn't work, but for the default driver that button doesn't exist. Is there an alternative driver for MC sticks anywhere?
Click to expand...

By chance, do you have the lock switch engaged? It neutralizes guide button presses (the selling point was to nullify the chance of accidentally pressing it and disqualifying from a tournament).
 
ShadowSoldier89 said:
any PCB with with screw terminals is super easy. Brook multiconsole for $90, or brook fighting board with paradise breakout for $50
Click to expand...

On paradisearcadeshops website it gives the option for soldered headers for an additional cost. What is the benefit or reasoning behind them?

Looking to mod a 360 marvel vs capcom tournament edition stick if I were to do this. May also do a te-s as well if the first one goes okay.
 
CastleRybread said:
On paradisearcadeshops website it gives the option for soldered headers for an additional cost. What is the benefit or reasoning behind them?

Looking to mod a 360 marvel vs capcom tournament edition stick if I were to do this. May also do a te-s as well if the first one goes okay.
Click to expand...
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/f...4-fighting-board-with-paradise-breakout-.html

this is what I bought, the headers for the brook are soldered for you onto the breakout board.

You can buy the brook and breakout separately, but then have to solder it yourself, At that point id skip the breakout and solder the wires directly to the board. Screw terminals are for simplicities sake anyway. However it looks like the board I ordered (only 2 days ago) is sold out, so that sucks. Now the option for a solderfree board is the 90 dollar brook quad console
 
I probably would go with the quad console since I own them all. On the quad console one they give an option for soldering though. I was pretty sure the basic board was simply screw terminals.

Sorry if I wasn't clear enough earlier with what I was asking about.
 
CastleRybread said:
I probably would go with the quad console since I own them all. On the quad console one they give an option for soldering though. I was pretty sure the basic board was simply screw terminals.

Sorry if I wasn't clear enough earlier with what I was asking about.
Click to expand...
take a look at this diagram
Universal_Fighting_Manual-2.jpg
Click to expand...

and then compare thee two pictures
brook-universal-fighting-board-ps3-ps4-xbox-360-xbox-one-pc-.jpg

brook-universal-fighting-board-ps3-ps4-xbox-360-xbox-one-pc-.jpg
Click to expand...

EDIT: Submitted too early. it looks like they are presoldering headers for the DP/RS/LS switch and...those are things that arent on the diagram
 
henhowc said:
so you can't even open the alpha without breaking warranty because the 7th screw is behind the label.

guess this is going back to frys. unless anyone has advice on how to "unstick" a button without opening. basically if i hit the button in the top right hand corner it snags and won't go down unless you push hard. :(
Click to expand...
Thought those warranty stickers are normal. Not sure on the button but try spinning the plunger around (the part that pushes down) or just slamming down hard on it once (...but not enough to break the whole damn thing). If something is just misaligned that might get it back.
CrashPrime said:
So apparently the original TE1 PCB is the laggiest official product ever released. Tests put it at like 17ms. Not to mention it's PS3 only (no PS2 classics support).

Is the best option to move the TE1 over to a PS360+? What about a Brook PCB? Just not sure the best way to get a PS4 stick with no lag.
Click to expand...
PS360+ doesn't do PS4 without the 8 minute timeout afaik. I don't think there's many options outside of the Brook products or a pad hack/gutting another stick.
I have given up the dream of a 2p stick for now as the only things that look good are the Sega HSS-0130 or 2 SFxT Vs. sticks and a bracket. BLAZE Twin is pretty much missing from the internet but I would gladly use that as a mod-base too.

@$500ish for the HSS-0130, I feel like maybe a DIY Vewlix would be the way to go. The other option is to see if Jon Bonilla aka Jony Fraze has a more detailed how-to on his Ikea MICKE Astrocity hack. This thing is awesome and is basically good enough for my needs. It's gotta be a fraction of work vs. a Vewlix DIY or cost of a Kraylix pre-cut.

Click to expand...
Yeah it's the easiest and cheapest option really. Drill and the proper hole saw bit would be like $30-40 and you can make a stick out of anything with a solid enough flat surface. I wasn't using a keyboard tray on my old desk way back, so I just turned it into a stick for example.

For Ikea stuff (or whatever cheap furniture) the main thing to watch for is whether it's solid wood rather than the light processed hollow structure stuff. The latter might work for all I know but I wouldn't trust it, I feel like their strength would be compromised too much by drilling into it.

I'm guessing if you image search Ikea joystick a bunch of stuff will come up. (Edit- arcade stick might be a better term)
 
japtor said:
Thought those warranty stickers are normal. Not sure on the button but try spinning the plunger around (the part that pushes down) or just slamming down hard on it once (...but not enough to break the whole damn thing). If something is just misaligned that might get it back.
Click to expand...

they generally are. just a bit annoyed i guess. i'm just going to return it. if all it takes is two days for it to start having issues i don't have much faith in it holding up long term.
 
CrashPrime said:
So apparently the original TE1 PCB is the laggiest official product ever released. Tests put it at like 17ms. Not to mention it's PS3 only (no PS2 classics support).

Is the best option to move the TE1 over to a PS360+? What about a Brook PCB? Just not sure the best way to get a PS4 stick with no lag.

I have given up the dream of a 2p stick for now as the only things that look good are the Sega HSS-0130 or 2 SFxT Vs. sticks and a bracket. BLAZE Twin is pretty much missing from the internet but I would gladly use that as a mod-base too.

@$500ish for the HSS-0130, I feel like maybe a DIY Vewlix would be the way to go. The other option is to see if Jon Bonilla aka Jony Fraze has a more detailed how-to on his Ikea MICKE Astrocity hack. This thing is awesome and is basically good enough for my needs. It's gotta be a fraction of work vs. a Vewlix DIY or cost of a Kraylix pre-cut.

[IM]http://351685206.r.lightningbase-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/01-550x733.jpeg[/IMG]
Click to expand...


One option to make an arcade stick is to find a place that will laser cut your designs.

It took less than 30 minutes to make the cabinet frame using a laser-cutter for my mini arcade machine

jboqCEv.jpg


jYYLLQy.jpg


qoDaS5A.jpg


lQcxSCp.jpg


K3qDke0.jpg


HWF52D9.jpg


TvYky7v.jpg
 
MRORANGE said:
One option to make an arcade stick is to find a place that will laser cut your designs.

It took less than 30 minutes to make the cabinet frame using a laser-cutter for my mini arcade machine

jboqCEv.jpg
Click to expand...
Damn, I forgot how much I wanted a laser cutter.

How much did it end up costing, was it charge by time or what?
 
I just bought this:
52336-usb_fighting_stick_mayflash_f300_ps4_ps3_xboxone_xbox360_pc.jpg

Mayflash F300

My intention is to mod it, Sanwa buttons and stick. The only piece mising is a template for the artwork, does anyone have it? Or maybe tips in how to do it?
 
japtor said:
Damn, I forgot how much I wanted a laser cutter.

How much did it end up costing, was it charge by time or what?
Click to expand...

This one was a local one as part of a membership so only cost around £3 to use it + £6 materials :) Very cheap.

Most laser cutter services cary depending on time and setup so have different rate - it should not cost more than £60 imo to make an arcade stick.
 
Koeta said:
Looking for a "LVT3 LED Board for PS4" but not having much luck? what are my options for LED on a TE2+?

also! does the TE2+ still have translucent sides?
Click to expand...

Amedo310 said:
No, they feel harder than sanwa. I play red cherry switches btw.




I think nothing sadly. Paradise arcade stop the led stuff after the Kaimana Khameleon came out. http://www.jasenscustoms.com/Kaimana-Khameleon_p_59.html

You thought of just getting the regular TE2 led board? http://store.madcatz.com/categories...-FightStick-Tournament-Edition-2-LED-PCB.html
Click to expand...

Was just looking up the LVT3, didn't realize they stopped selling them. So, I'll read up on the Kaimana one.

What are your opinions on it?

Edit - oh, the kaimana one needs the ps360 pcb?
 
z3phyr said:
I just bought this:
52336-usb_fighting_stick_mayflash_f300_ps4_ps3_xboxone_xbox360_pc.jpg

Mayflash F300

My intention is to mod it, Sanwa buttons and stick. The only piece mising is a template for the artwork, does anyone have it? Or maybe tips in how to do it?
Click to expand...
If you're looking for a template, it seems to be identical in layout to my Venom PS3/PS4 stick, excluding that it has no plexi.
 
Hello FightingGaf!

I just finished building my first mame cabinet control panel using an ipac 2. I am also considering getting the adapter to play on console (mainly ps3) does anyone have any experience with said option? Does it add lag for example? And how about switching players?
 
RS4- said:
Was just looking up the LVT3, didn't realize they stopped selling them. So, I'll read up on the Kaimana one.

What are your opinions on it?

Edit - oh, the kaimana one needs the ps360 pcb?
Click to expand...

Apparently, an updated LVT3 will come back in March. Someone on SRK mentioned it: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10605578/#Comment_10605578

It looks like the original one had software issues and Paradise Arcade staff are fixing the problem at the moment.

And no, the Kaimana can work with any board.
 
Amedo310 said:
Apparently, an updated LVT3 will come back in March. Someone on SRK mentioned it: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10605578/#Comment_10605578

It looks like the original one had software issues and Paradise Arcade staff are fixing the problem at the moment.

And no, the Kaimana can work with any board.
Click to expand...

Oh shit ok, thanks. But man, the KK price is so good. I guess I can wait it out. Reading the some old posts on SRK, looks like they didn't port the LVT3 GUI to KK :(
 
RS4- said:
Oh shit ok, thanks. But man, the KK price is so good. I guess I can wait it out. Reading the some old posts on SRK, looks like they didn't port the LVT3 GUI to KK :(
Click to expand...

The thing about the kaimana is that you still have to buy the leds, which I have no idea where to find online, especially the ones that Paradise Arcade sold with the original kaimana boards.
 
I'm not to big into the scene of sticks and but I have TE1 and recently the stick crapped out.. I looked on madcatz website for a replacement and everything was sold out .. Anyone know where I can get a replacement for it , nothing to fancy as am a casual lol
 
Skilletor said:
You mean I might be able to play Alpha 3 with other people? hahaha
Click to expand...

PSP is a flat no go, so no Alpha MAX, unfortunately. Even if you could get past the disconnect problem with the PSP emulator... it is a PSP game so no local versus mode.

PSX miiiight be possible, but I think the disconnect problem is with the emulator itself. I admit I did not test extensively. If a work around is figured out then any 2 player PSX game should work.
 
Just noticed this in my spam folder. It's an email from eight arc.

We hope to release some PS4, PS3, PC products soon. We don't have a definite date yet, but it is looking like March or April release. We should be getting some more Defender bags at the same time too. Thank you for your continued support. We will make an announcement on our social media pages once we have more news to share. "
Click to expand...

The day after I get my te2+. ;-;
 
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