Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

There's also a grey strip on the right of the top panel with side button labels.

So are there any functional differences or is it only a separate PC switch, matte buttons, and gray button label strip? Why the extra PC switch anyway?
 
So are there any functional differences or is it only a separate PC switch, matte buttons, and gray button label strip? Why the extra PC switch anyway?

The PS3/PS4 switch is now PS4/PS3/PC, and they rearranged the order of the side buttons.

The only negative is that the button assign feature on the old one let you map two or three button combos to the L1, L2 or option, but the new model only allows 1:1 mapping.

The top panel coloring is a little different with the gray looking more metallic silver now.
 
Does anyone have any DIY solutions for some loose buttons? I put some Seimitsu buttons in my MadCatz Pro (360) and a couple of the buttons are loose, rotate freely, and can be pulled out partially. Its not a deal breaker, but it would be nice to fix.
 
Wait there are two versions of this stick? How can you tell them apart?

Well, minus the above. The easiest way would be to plug it in and see what drivers it installs. If it says it's installing DirectInput (IIRC) it's not the Xinput stick. If you miss that driver install, booting SF5 up and having the stick be non-responsive would be the best case of it being DirectInput since SF5 doesn't support DirectInput at the moment outside of third party applications.
 
Does anyone have any DIY solutions for some loose buttons? I put some Seimitsu buttons in my MadCatz Pro (360) and a couple of the buttons are loose, rotate freely, and can be pulled out partially. Its not a deal breaker, but it would be nice to fix.

Try wrapping some electrical, or other tape around the button below the lip to make the fit more snug.

I did that on my Hori after replacing the start button, which was too loose like that.
 
This is going to pose problems for Killer Instinct on PC. Great...

*HRAP 4 Kai for sale*

Not really. Killer Instinct should support both methods out of box. And it doesn't, a simple DS3XinputWrapper of old will fix it on PC pretty easy if it supports Xinput and doesn't mind cross-overs.

The problem with SF5 is that it outright doesn't support that method on the sticks, despite Dual-Shock 3's working just fine, weirdly enough.
 
Not really. Killer Instinct should support both methods out of box. And it doesn't, a simple DS3XinputWrapper of old will fix it on PC pretty easy if it supports Xinput and doesn't mind cross-overs.

The problem with SF5 is that it outright doesn't support that method on the sticks, despite Dual-Shock 3's working just fine, weirdly enough.

I remember hearing someone say that wrappers may not work with KI due to something about win10.

I'm just glad I no longer have to worry about it with the new Mad Catz drivers. Can't wait to finally try some KI.
 
Not really. Killer Instinct should support both methods out of box. And it doesn't, a simple DS3XinputWrapper of old will fix it on PC pretty easy if it supports Xinput and doesn't mind cross-overs.

Are you sure since it's a Windows 10 UWA? I thought those didn't allow injections or wrappers? How does Tomb Raider from the W10 store work? Can you use a DS4?
 
Are you sure since it's a Windows 10 UWA? I thought those didn't allow injections or wrappers? How does Tomb Raider from the W10 store work? Can you use a DS4?

We won't know until Killer Instinct is out. But I haven't heard anything about them not supporting DirectInput. It's really up how they handle the stick/controllers. Like I said: SF5's works with the DS3 which is DirectInput under the wrapper, but the RAP4 won't work despite being the same/DirectInput for some bizarre reason.
 
We won't know until Killer Instinct is out. But I haven't heard anything about them not supporting DirectInput. It's really up how they handle the stick/controllers. Like I said: SF5's works with the DS3 which is DirectInput under the wrapper, but the RAP4 won't work despite being the same/DirectInput for some bizarre reason.

Yes, but SF5 in a standard Windows exe and KI is the new Windows Unversal App, which has a bunch of inherent non-game-specifc limitations. Are you familiar with all the controversy about those limitations? Couldn't that be an issue here?
 
Yes, but SF5 in a standard Windows exe and KI is the new Windows Unversal App, which has a bunch of inherent non-game-specifc limitations. Are you familiar with all the controversy about those limitations? Couldn't that be an issue here?

Nah, I know of the UWP/UWA limitations and the whole hoopla over it. But like I said: There's nothing that they've stated that makes me think they wouldn't support DirectInput. IIRC they're supposed to have a Windows 10 driver update coming same day for better stick support. MS would be absolutely crazy to not have 50% of sticks work with their title they're trying to push on PC.
 
Nah, I know of the UWP/UWA limitations and the whole hoopla over it. But like I said: There's nothing that they've stated that makes me think they wouldn't support DirectInput. IIRC they're supposed to have a Windows 10 driver update coming same day for better stick support. MS would be absolutely crazy to not have 50% of sticks work with their title they're trying to push on PC.

Can you use dinput on Windows 10 games now?

If not, I don't see why you'd be able to use anything other than MS supported devices.
 
Nah, I know of the UWP/UWA limitations and the whole hoopla over it. But like I said: There's nothing that they've stated that makes me think they wouldn't support DirectInput. IIRC they're supposed to have a Windows 10 driver update coming same day for better stick support. MS would be absolutely crazy to not have 50% of sticks work with their title they're trying to push on PC.

I mean you'd think so, right? But I'm skeptical for now until we get more confirmation on UWA controller support. Fortunately I can use my sticks in X-input mode anyway.
 
Any thoughts on the HRAP 4? Im asking for a friend (Im happy with my TS+) They seem nice but I havent tested Hayabusa parts, Im guessing its a high grade Hori stick which I havent tried. It also looks to have an odd size for someones lap.
 
Thinking about giving an octagonal gate another try. Tried it a couple years ago but ended up switching back to square gate. Don't remember why I went back to square gate.
 
Woohoo, my first modded stick. Switched out the ball and buttons for Sanwa and changed it to octagonal gate. Very easy. Guess I'll see how this compares to using my other HRAP4 with Hayabusa parts. Thanks for the advice and shop suggestions guys. ^_^

CdOg4aqXEAACajZ.jpg
 
finally got my HRAP4 Kai in the mail

has a great weight to it, build feels solid

hayabusa buttons aren't as feathery as sanwa, will have to play with em and see how i like them

hayabusa stick feels good, too. no squeak but has a little 'pop' when i hit up. doesn't seem like a big deal

can't wait to put it through the paces tonight though

"Pop" Are you hitting the gate all the way? The hayabusa stick has a different housing structure than a JLF and you don't need to hit or ride the gate at all as the contact is smaller. Doing so causes it to rise up and "pop" out more than a JLF would.

If that is what you are referring to. If not then please ignore :p
 
im on that HRAP4Kai wagon now. this stick is comfortable and nice, new hayabusa buttons, are a unique experience for sure. I can see them being good for MVC2 super mashing lol. looks nice on my work table too.

tumblr_o3uv79MahU1rmse96o2_1280.jpg
 
Still no HRAP4 with hayabusa buttons in canada :/

Patience always wins, but still, it's disappointing. I might try out Arcadeshock now, even if it's gonna cost a lot more because of the crappy CAD.
 
Hiba, your mousepad is pretty dope.

edit - and the Sanwa banner thing is AWESOME!

edit2 - I put a 2lb spring in my JLF (MADCATZxSANRIO x360) Holy shit I like it SO much better. I guess I'm some kind of clumsy, animal handed idiot or whatever, but I cannot help but ride the gate during heated matches with the stock JLF. It has, like, no resistance at all. The 2lb spring is amazing! My execution is so much better.
 
Modding HRAP4 was easy. Look up a video guide. Also, I don't think silent buttons work much. I saw a video of a dude using them and they still make noise but the sound is more flat.
 
It's easy. Everything is pop in/out and screw in/out.

Modding HRAP4 was easy. Look up a video guide. Also, I don't think silent buttons work much. I saw a video of a dude using them and they still make noise but the sound is more flat.

dope.

i'm going to look into some reviews for the buttons, i don't mind regular 30mms at all so long as i can get a silent jlf in there.
 
The Mayflash V2 is enabling me to play more PC shmups, which is great. Too many PC shmups have limitations on which keys can be assigned to which actions, which forces me to use AutoHotKey to make game-specific keyboard mappings.
The DInput/XInput and Analog/DPAD switches on the stick are incredible; they let me avoid all that key mapping business and get straight to playing.
Part of it is down to the fact that most Japanese-style stick parts use circular shaped actuators that push against four small microswitched buttons which are centered around the stick in the neutral position. Whilst some sticks used bevelled actuators which compensate against this to a degree (don't think this is true of the V2 stick, though), when sliding the stick, for example, left or right whilst riding the bottom of the gate, it's actually a narrower part of the actuator which is interacting with the mircoswitch button than it would be if doing the same from a neutral starting point.

If you are moving directly diagonal from neutral, this is still true to a degree, but the microswitch will still hit the activation point part way through the movement.

The distances involved here are small enough that I personally don't tend to notice the difference, but I'm actually pretty cack-handed at this stuff.
The circular actuator makes sense. A shame it has the side-effect of requiring massive amounts of movement to switch from down-left to down-right, especially when compared to switching from left to right.
Speaking of which, the joystick requires slightly more movement to engage right than to engage left for some reason. That's unfortunate.
I'm still loving the V2 in spite of it's jankiness, but I'm really looking forward to replacing the joystick with an LS-56 down the road.

Edit: Out of curiosity, does anyone manufacturer chrome-colored balltops and buttons? That'd be cool.
 
thinking of modding sanwa silent parts (jlf + buttons)
into my hrap 4

how hard is that process?

I put silent sanwa buttons in my HRAP V4. At first it felt a little off when I used them. Don't really know how to explain it. I eventually got used to them though.
 
Edit: Out of curiosity, does anyone manufacturer chrome-colored balltops and buttons? That'd be cool.

Focusattack sells aluminum balltops if that is something youd be interested in. They aren't exactly chrome but they are pretty nice and have multiple colors. Just take note that they do weigh more than normal balltops so some other mods might be needed to make them more comfortable.
 
Still kinda new to sticks as I just bought and modded my first MadCatz last month...

Want to do some things to my HRAP4Kai now... but while looking at others on SRK for inspiration I see a couple of sticks with a sort of carbon fiber look to the plexi. Very simple, very clean, and I like it a lot... are these likely just people making it on their own from scratch or are there places out there that offer this style of custom plexi?

Haven't been able to find anything online...
 
Focusattack sells aluminum balltops if that is something youd be interested in. They aren't exactly chrome but they are pretty nice and have multiple colors. Just take note that they do weigh more than normal balltops so some other mods might be needed to make them more comfortable.

Sanwa has some coming out too, right?
 
Why is there 2 dustwashers? One is obviously on the top of the plexi to block dust and hair from getting down into stick. But when I replaced my JLF to put in my new Hayabusa lever there was a second dustwasher glommed on the top of the JLF stick with grease and stuff. Is it just for extra protection, a spacer, or? Seemed kind of redundant, but I suppose that may be the point.

Anyways, I really like this Hayabusa lever and it was really easy to install. I got a 2lb spring as well since it was cheap but I haven't changed it out yet. If I wanted to do that is there a tutorial somewhere? Or how do I access the spring without damaging anything?
 
Why is there 2 dustwashers? One is obviously on the top of the plexi to block dust and hair from getting down into stick. But when I replaced my JLF to put in my new Hayabusa lever there was a second dustwasher glommed on the top of the JLF stick with grease and stuff. Is it just for extra protection, a spacer, or? Seemed kind of redundant, but I suppose that may be the point.

Anyways, I really like this Hayabusa lever and it was really easy to install. I got a 2lb spring as well since it was cheap but I haven't changed it out yet. If I wanted to do that is there a tutorial somewhere? Or how do I access the spring without damaging anything?

The second one is underneath to help keep any dust or dirt from getting into the pivot, where the grease is.
 
Parts came in a couple of days ago. Ordered the ls38 and seimitsu buttons from FA. The ls38 from FA bolts right into the hrap4, but only two screws will fit vs four. Everything works great, but I think I like sanwa buttons better now.

The main difference I noticed is that the sanwa buttons have a little more travel when u push down, where as the seimitsu is a shorter push. The ls38 joystick otoh is my new fav. It's perfect, even better than my old ls32 or ls40, don't remember which one is in my other joystick.
 
Anyone ever have issues with the eclip on the hayabusa? Trying to change out a sprig on my new one and I can't get that damn thing back on.

Edit: got it back on it was kind of bent so I just smoothed it back out. Had to move some of the wires around in my TE2+ to get the hayabusa to fit nicely but it is working great.
 
Anyone ever have issues with the eclip on the hayabusa? Trying to change out a sprig on my new one and I can't get that damn thing back on.

Edit: got it back on it was kind of bent so I just smoothed it back out. Had to move some of the wires around in my TE2+ to get the hayabusa to fit nicely but it is working great.

Do you just pop the clip off with a screwdriver or something? I can see that is how you are supposed to get to the spring but it seemed awfully hard to get off and I didn't want to mess with it before I got confirmation.
 
Do you just pop the clip off with a screwdriver or something? I can see that is how you are supposed to get to the spring but it seemed awfully hard to get off and I didn't want to mess with it before I got confirmation.

With a smaller flathead yeah. I only had a bigger flathead on hand which as my issue since it was hitting the actual clip and vent it a little but it got back to normal with some pressure.
 
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