Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

My second VLX, the Kim stick, modded with the usual:

IMG_20160321_202352_zpswjayoanc.jpg

Anyway, when I try to change one of the Gamerfinger buttons caps with a white one, the mechanical switch harness came out of the plunger. That has never happened before and I should have taken a picture of it. It took 10 minutes to put it back together.
 
Just get the new HRAP4 Kai with xinput. You'll save money and get an upgraded better version of the stick.

I actually ordered the Hayabusa shortly after posting that. It already came in the mail today. Amazon is so fast.

Cell phone pic (sorry):


And my old SCV Hori with Seimitsu screwbuttons, Seimitsu bubbletop, Link by PhreakMods, and dual-mod courtesy of Gummo. I love this stick. It's a shame my crappy cell phone picture can't do it justice.


My only complaint is that the art in the buttons gets spun out of alignment. I only bother with it if there's something interesting going on.
 
thank you very much guys. glad you like it.

The case, Sanwa buttons and joystick + PCB all together is still much cheaper than a premium grade Madcatz TE or HORI sticks.

you can check it out www.arcadestick-indonesia.com I think he ship worldwide

as for the art its just something I did myself by printing and cutting :p

soo no its not expensive at all :p
 
Damn that is a pretty cool looking stick. Might pick up one for the collection. I doubt I'd give it much use but it has a very unique look for sure.
 
Anybody got suggestions on a makeshift carrying bag for a Tekken Hybrid Namco Arcade Fightstick and a Hori HRAP 4 or is this the wrong place to ask?
 
I have a question for the more skilled folks in here who have done a lot of wiring/electrical work with your joystick mods...

I'm thinking about getting this new PCB Brook put out:


And installing it into my MadCatz Fightstick TE, but I'd like to be able to keep the cord that came with the stick. Mainly because it's super long (13 ft) and has the breakaway feature in case someone trips over it. In order to do that though, I think I'd need to put an actual connector onto the inside end of the wire.

Where would I get the connector (USB Type-B) I need and are there any good instructions online for wiring one up? I mean short of dismantling a cheap cord and making a best comparative guess of which terminals correspond to which.

Any help would be much appreciated!
 
thank you very much guys. glad you like it.

The case, Sanwa buttons and joystick + PCB all together is still much cheaper than a premium grade Madcatz TE or HORI sticks.

you can check it out www.arcadestick-indonesia.com I think he ship worldwide

as for the art its just something I did myself by printing and cutting :p

soo no its not expensive at all :p

Your username is all over the sticker on the stick and the site as well. Do you...work with them?

Edit: I see that you do.
 
thank you very much guys. glad you like it.

The case, Sanwa buttons and joystick + PCB all together is still much cheaper than a premium grade Madcatz TE or HORI sticks.

you can check it out www.arcadestick-indonesia.com I think he ship worldwide

as for the art its just something I did myself by printing and cutting :p

soo no its not expensive at all :p
if you start branching out beyond street fighter, id most likely be in for one
 
I have a question for the more skilled folks in here who have done a lot of wiring/electrical work with your joystick mods...

I'm thinking about getting this new PCB Brook put out:



And installing it into my MadCatz Fightstick TE, but I'd like to be able to keep the cord that came with the stick. Mainly because it's super long (13 ft) and has the breakaway feature in case someone trips over it. In order to do that though, I think I'd need to put an actual connector onto the inside end of the wire.

Where would I get the connector (USB Type-B) I need and are there any good instructions online for wiring one up? I mean short of dismantling a cheap cord and making a best comparative guess of which terminals correspond to which.

Any help would be much appreciated!

So you want something like this:


I'm mainly referring to the USB port.
 
My second VLX, the Kim stick, modded with the usual:

Anyway, when I try to change one of the Gamerfinger buttons caps with a white one, the mechanical switch harness came out of the plunger. That has never happened before and I should have taken a picture of it. It took 10 minutes to put it back together.
These are flippin' gorgeous. How'd you manage to affix the art to the top of the Vewlix?
 
So you want something like this:



I'm mainly referring to the USB port.
Maybe? Sorta?

I just want to know where to get the male connector and then how to attach it to the wire on the stick's existing cord. Right now it's soldered to terminals on an Akishop PS360+. I'd just like to be able to plug it right into the Brook PCB's USB terminal like it was a whole new cable with connectors on both ends.
 
These are flippin' gorgeous. How'd you manage to affix the art to the top of the Vewlix?

I paid for new faceplates and new stick arts at http://www.jasenscustoms.com/Fight-Stick-Replacement-Panels_c_47.html

Maybe? Sorta?

I just want to know where to get the male connector and then how to attach it to the wire on the stick's existing cord. Right now it's soldered to terminals on an Akishop PS360+. I'd just like to be able to plug it right into the Brook PCB's USB terminal like it was a whole new cable with connectors on both ends.

Unless you can repair the soldered USB cable, you might as well get a 15ft cable from Ebay. I will warn you that the brook pcb does not like certain long cables. I brought a 15ft white one and it would not work with the UFB's USB slot.
 
So I kinda want a new stick and was looking at the HORI Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai. I like my sanwa te and have an extra set of buttons and joystick. How hard is it to replace them on the hori stick?
 
Your username is all over the sticker on the stick and the site as well. Do you...work with them?

Edit: I see that you do.


I did some design for their Street Fighter V line up for now. hopefully work on something else with them in the future :]


This is so sick.

thank you :]


if you start branching out beyond street fighter, id most likely be in for one
We might do some more collaboration soon. :]
 
lol. Yeah...I'd have bought the new VLX if I didn't have 3. I don't like those HRAP shells, so that was never an option. 24 bucks and six buttons on their way. :)

I don't mind them too much. I like how portable feeling they are though. It's nice to have a light stick to mess around with sometimes and for when people come over and want to use one.

I was going to get some Hayabusas for my TE2 but I think I'll wait until they release some more colors before I decided to get some for it. If they do release other colors that is.

Still waiting on a new FE and VLX diamond though.... someday.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a white shaft and dustwasher set for the Hayabusa stick? Will seimitsu ones fit? Should I just paint the black ones with some of that plastic spray paint?

It's crampin my style.
 
My second VLX, the Kim stick, modded with the usual:



Anyway, when I try to change one of the Gamerfinger buttons caps with a white one, the mechanical switch harness came out of the plunger. That has never happened before and I should have taken a picture of it. It took 10 minutes to put it back together.

where do you print out your artwork? very nice!
 
Maybe? Sorta?

I just want to know where to get the male connector and then how to attach it to the wire on the stick's existing cord. Right now it's soldered to terminals on an Akishop PS360+. I'd just like to be able to plug it right into the Brook PCB's USB terminal like it was a whole new cable with connectors on both ends.
Those Neutrik things are just standard USB cables, so they're not breakaway (or they're only as breakaway as standard USB cables).

So yeah your best bet is basically to splice a short USB cable and figure out which lines line up. Or swap it all out and see if there's some other breakaway USB cable you can use. Everything I can find seems to be for the 360...some might work but likely require splicing somewhere either way.

Or I guess a combination of both solutions: Brook USB to short cable to Neutrik inside the stick, then hacked up breakaway cable from there.

Unless you can repair the soldered USB cable, you might as well get a 15ft cable from Ebay. I will warn you that the brook pcb does not like certain long cables. I brought a 15ft white one and it would not work with the UFB's USB slot.
Tried it with other USB devices to see if it's the cable itself? 15' is near the limit for USB 2.0 so I imagine the tolerances for cable quality are tighter at that length.
 
Anyone have any experience with these buttons? I really didn't like the kuro buttons and how squeaky they felt.

I like them. I had an older revision 4 Kai and replaced the Kuros with Sanwas. However, I sold that one (w/ the Kuros) for the new model and am leaving the new Hayabusa buttons in, at least for now.

They have a short throw, are very low profile, and pretty snappy. A little quieter than Sanwas though you can feel a tiny resistance. They seem just as good, just a little different. Not a must-buy if you have Sanwas, but so much better than Kuros.
 
Are there any structural differences between the OBSF-30 and the OBSFS-30, other than the foam silencer?
In other words, can you remove the foam silencer from an OBSFS-30 to make it functionally identical to an OBSF-30?
 
Are there any structural differences between the OBSF-30 and the OBSFS-30, other than the foam silencer?
In other words, can you remove the foam silencer from an OBSFS-30 to make it functionally identical to an OBSF-30?
No structural differences aside from the foam silencer. Paradise Arcade Shop and Focus Attack also sell their own aftermarket silencers if you want to try out silent buttons on the cheap.
 
Top Bottom