pineapplepizza
Member
Side panels for my te2.
Well it ain't like they will make you any better at the game. You will always lose to bad Nash's.
Side panels for my te2.
Just get the new HRAP4 Kai with xinput. You'll save money and get an upgraded better version of the stick.
Custom VM-4 Arcade Stick. Fightstick case by Arcadestick-indonesia / wazwuz. Art and design by me.
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Custom VM-4 Arcade Stick. Fightstick case by Arcadestick-indonesia / wazwuz. Art and design by me.
I actually ordered the Hayabusa shortly after posting that. It already came in the mail today. Amazon is so fast.
Cell phone pic (sorry):
thank you very much guys. glad you like it.
The case, Sanwa buttons and joystick + PCB all together is still much cheaper than a premium grade Madcatz TE or HORI sticks.
you can check it out www.arcadestick-indonesia.com I think he ship worldwide
as for the art its just something I did myself by printing and cutting
soo no its not expensive at all![]()
Woot. Arcadeshock selling the new hayabusa buttons. Bought 6 for myself.
http://arcadeshock.com/collections/hori/products/hori-hayabusa-matte-pushbutton-30mm
if you start branching out beyond street fighter, id most likely be in for onethank you very much guys. glad you like it.
The case, Sanwa buttons and joystick + PCB all together is still much cheaper than a premium grade Madcatz TE or HORI sticks.
you can check it out www.arcadestick-indonesia.com I think he ship worldwide
as for the art its just something I did myself by printing and cutting
soo no its not expensive at all![]()
I have a question for the more skilled folks in here who have done a lot of wiring/electrical work with your joystick mods...
I'm thinking about getting this new PCB Brook put out:
And installing it into my MadCatz Fightstick TE, but I'd like to be able to keep the cord that came with the stick. Mainly because it's super long (13 ft) and has the breakaway feature in case someone trips over it. In order to do that though, I think I'd need to put an actual connector onto the inside end of the wire.
Where would I get the connector (USB Type-B) I need and are there any good instructions online for wiring one up? I mean short of dismantling a cheap cord and making a best comparative guess of which terminals correspond to which.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Custom VM-4 Arcade Stick. Fightstick case by Arcadestick-indonesia / wazwuz. Art and design by me.
This is so sick.
These are flippin' gorgeous. How'd you manage to affix the art to the top of the Vewlix?My second VLX, the Kim stick, modded with the usual:
Anyway, when I try to change one of the Gamerfinger buttons caps with a white one, the mechanical switch harness came out of the plunger. That has never happened before and I should have taken a picture of it. It took 10 minutes to put it back together.
Maybe? Sorta?So you want something like this:
I'm mainly referring to the USB port.
Woot. Arcadeshock selling the new hayabusa buttons. Bought 6 for myself.
http://arcadeshock.com/collections/hori/products/hori-hayabusa-matte-pushbutton-30mm
Currently, these pushbuttons are only offered on HRAP4 Kai Fightsticks and are not sold separately. Here's your chance to experience the next pushbuttons without having to buy a whole new fight stick.
I should have just waited..... Bye bye $150.
^ I'm that guy.
Well, at least you didn't get a vlx just for the new buttons.
These are flippin' gorgeous. How'd you manage to affix the art to the top of the Vewlix?
Maybe? Sorta?
I just want to know where to get the male connector and then how to attach it to the wire on the stick's existing cord. Right now it's soldered to terminals on an Akishop PS360+. I'd just like to be able to plug it right into the Brook PCB's USB terminal like it was a whole new cable with connectors on both ends.
Woot. Arcadeshock selling the new hayabusa buttons. Bought 6 for myself.
http://arcadeshock.com/collections/hori/products/hori-hayabusa-matte-pushbutton-30mm
I've always loved the basic look of this thing.
I should have just waited..... Bye bye $150.
^ I'm that guy.
Thanks a million, friend!I paid for new faceplates and new stick arts at http://www.jasenscustoms.com/Fight-Stick-Replacement-Panels_c_47.html
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Very very easy. Minimal tools required.So I kinda want a new stick and was looking at the HORI Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai. I like my sanwa te and have an extra set of buttons and joystick. How hard is it to replace them on the hori stick?
New PS4 revision of the eTokki Omni is now up for pre-order (Korean and Sanwa versions): https://twitter.com/etokki/status/712448891652677633
Cheapest shipping option to the US appears to be $47... I'm so close to pulling the trigger. Though I wonder if I'd also get charged with some last minute import fees once it arrives...
I've always loved the basic look of this thing.
Your username is all over the sticker on the stick and the site as well. Do you...work with them?
Edit: I see that you do.
This is so sick.
We might do some more collaboration soon. :]if you start branching out beyond street fighter, id most likely be in for one
I've always loved the basic look of this thing.
lol. Yeah...I'd have bought the new VLX if I didn't have 3. I don't like those HRAP shells, so that was never an option. 24 bucks and six buttons on their way.![]()
Oh god damn, that's tight as hell.It's similar to my Martini X1 stick from B15SDM:
I love the way people get creative with plexiglass.
Does anyone know where I can get a white shaft and dustwasher set for the Hayabusa stick? Will seimitsu ones fit? Should I just paint the black ones with some of that plastic spray paint?
It's crampin my style.
My second VLX, the Kim stick, modded with the usual:
Anyway, when I try to change one of the Gamerfinger buttons caps with a white one, the mechanical switch harness came out of the plunger. That has never happened before and I should have taken a picture of it. It took 10 minutes to put it back together.
The Hayabusa shaft is pretty much the same as the one from the JLF, so you'll be looking for JLF parts. I've had one of these QanBa shaft covers on a Hayabusa before.
Those Neutrik things are just standard USB cables, so they're not breakaway (or they're only as breakaway as standard USB cables).Maybe? Sorta?
I just want to know where to get the male connector and then how to attach it to the wire on the stick's existing cord. Right now it's soldered to terminals on an Akishop PS360+. I'd just like to be able to plug it right into the Brook PCB's USB terminal like it was a whole new cable with connectors on both ends.
Tried it with other USB devices to see if it's the cable itself? 15' is near the limit for USB 2.0 so I imagine the tolerances for cable quality are tighter at that length.Unless you can repair the soldered USB cable, you might as well get a 15ft cable from Ebay. I will warn you that the brook pcb does not like certain long cables. I brought a 15ft white one and it would not work with the UFB's USB slot.
Anyone have any experience with these buttons? I really didn't like the kuro buttons and how squeaky they felt.
On twitter they said it's "a PS4/PS3/PC PCB by Brook" which I'm assuming means this.what kinda PCB is in these?
I wish I could get a hold of that LED board...fucking mad catzI am in love with my new TE2s, so much that I purchased a 360 version of the te2. Thinking about swapping out the LED board on the KI version and going all out on my waifu stick.
No structural differences aside from the foam silencer. Paradise Arcade Shop and Focus Attack also sell their own aftermarket silencers if you want to try out silent buttons on the cheap.Are there any structural differences between the OBSF-30 and the OBSFS-30, other than the foam silencer?
In other words, can you remove the foam silencer from an OBSFS-30 to make it functionally identical to an OBSF-30?