Hellshingu
Member
I thought those things didn't use springs originally but some rubber shafts that acted like springs but I could be thinking of the wrong stick.
Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
I thought those things didn't use springs originally but some rubber shafts that acted like springs but I could be thinking of the wrong stick.
At least this model does:
It's a cool stick, with microswitches for the stick and the buttons. Just too stupid stiff for my taste.
sixteen-bit
Member
Such a fresh mod, it looks official
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10737936/#Comment_10737936
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10737936/#Comment_10737936
Such a fresh mod, it looks official
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10737936/#Comment_10737936
It took me way too long to figure out something was "wrong" with this picture.
That's really cool!
Such a fresh mod, it looks official
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10737936/#Comment_10737936
I feel like those buttons are too close together
Hellshingu
Member
At least this model does:
It's a cool stick, with microswitches for the stick and the buttons. Just too stupid stiff for my taste.
Ah okay I think that's a variant of it called the Star. I'm not 100% sure what kind of spring it uses. I think you put a JLF spring in there but need a different washer to keep the spring in and probably have to stretch it out a little to get it to fit as the original springs in those are pretty heavy duty.
lol, man, we've been posting in the same threads and I didn't recognize you because of the avvy change.
7DollarHagane
Banned
I'm about to pick up a silent hori hrap 4.
It says it has a Hayabusa stick and Kuro buttons.
Am I sacrificing any usability or performance by getting the silent model? I don't play at night because I don't want to make too much noise or wake up my daughter. But if the silent buttons perform much worse I might just stick with my Ps3 te stick and try to keep doors shut.
It says it has a Hayabusa stick and Kuro buttons.
Am I sacrificing any usability or performance by getting the silent model? I don't play at night because I don't want to make too much noise or wake up my daughter. But if the silent buttons perform much worse I might just stick with my Ps3 te stick and try to keep doors shut.
If I'm not mistaken the silent model has more input lag than other sticks.
Hellshingu
Member
Yeah haha I changed from Dr. Baldhead after I made this cheese breadstick hair Guile one a couple days ago. Thought it was fitting until Guile releases.
Ok I'll try these then. Any idea where to order when not in the US? I only find American shops and shipping from there is quite expensive.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Guys, just installed a Seimitsu LS-40 into one of my HRAP's. Wow. This is a great stick. I am shocked I overlooked it all this time. It is smoooth and responsive and feels like something in-between a JLF and a Hayabusa. I have to give it a prolonged session, but a bit of time in the lab just now made me a believer.
I read it was stiffer than the LS-32, which I have in my Madcatz SE, but it didn't feel that way at all. It's stiff, but whatever magic is happening inside masks it in comparison.
Really, really good stick. Will it replace the Hayabusa as my current fave? Possibly.
I read it was stiffer than the LS-32, which I have in my Madcatz SE, but it didn't feel that way at all. It's stiff, but whatever magic is happening inside masks it in comparison.
Really, really good stick. Will it replace the Hayabusa as my current fave? Possibly.
The LS-40 is fantastic. Really precise for shmups, really smooth for fighters. The only issue I have is that it's too precise for its own good (accidental jumps whoo), but I'm getting better at using it. I honestly can't imagine myself using any other joystick.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
So far no issues with unwanted jumps or diagonals!! Installation was somewhat more annoying than I initially thought. I didnt bother with an S plate so it sits low (which is fine for me) with the RE plate. I had to flip the 5 pin tab from how it was for the stock JLF and also had to cut off the tab from the 5 pin connector--the portion that sticks out--to make it fit fully in. Then I put some tape around it to hold it in place just in case.
Sorcerer Supreme
Member
Such a fresh mod, it looks official
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10737936/#Comment_10737936
disgusting
7DollarHagane
Banned
According to http://www.teyah.net/sticklag/results.html
Hrap 4 silent is 15ms, effectively one frame, and about 10 milliseconds more than the dual shock 4 or the regular hrap 4 which are at 5ms.
My monitor is effectively 0ms, the benQ xl2420te.
It seems like the difference should hardly be noticeable unless I become a pro guilty gear player or sf5 gets one frame links back.
I just ordered one today, Amazon warehouse had like new in original packaging for $162.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Okay, Fight Stick GAF, sell me on Gamerfinger buttons.
katsubento
Member
Don't you mean the response time of the monitor is close to 0ms? Not the input lag. You can't have 0ms input lag.
Hellshingu
Member
Why not just go for the new HRAP4 instead?
7DollarHagane
Banned
Sorry it should be 10ms.
If the input lag of the monitor is 10ms, and the pcb is 15ms, the difference isn't that great. Throw in the delay in online play and 2 frame input buffer of sf5 and it's all "good enough"
I want the silent version because it is less likely to annoy my wife or wake up my kid. The hrap v5 silent isn't any better in the pcb department and it's $220 or more vs $170 for the v4 silent.
katsubento
Member
That makes sense.
So the top piece of my fightstick box that connects slides into the bottom got unstuck from the back.
What is the best way to stick it back together? I assume super glue, but am worried that might get too messy.
Bigger image.
What is the best way to stick it back together? I assume super glue, but am worried that might get too messy.
Bigger image.
katsubento
Member
So the top piece of my fightstick box that connects slides into the bottom got unstuck from the back.
What is the best way to stick it back together? I assume super glue, but am worried that might get too messy.
Bigger image.
Get a bag instead
Get a bag instead
I understand that there are alternatives to carry around the stick. The thing is though I plan to sell it down the line and really want the box in functioning so I can sell the stick for all its worth.
katsubento
Member
Thanks..
Hellshingu
Member
Turned out really nice. You prefer type-n panels?
Yeah, I like the bit of extra space between the stick and buttons.
Hellshingu
Member
I hope you plan to used them forever. They are a pain to remove once the are in the stick.
bumpkin
Member
The wait for my TEK Case is so agonizing... It'll be 10 days on Friday.
On the bright side, I've had time to collect all the parts (buttons, wiring, etc.), so once I get the case I'll be ready to get building!
This.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Ha. Yeah, I did some reading up on them. For as much as I like to swap buttons, I'm going to pass.
Hellshingu
Member
The wait for my TEK Case is so agonizing... It'll be 10 days on Friday.
On the bright side, I've had time to collect all the parts (buttons, wiring, etc.), so once I get the case I'll be ready to get building!
Nice. Looking forward to the finished product.
Reminds me of an Ashens video I watched a couple weeks ago that featured a large variety of old (usually cheap) joysticks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbQajuuX6mM.At least this model does:
It's a cool stick, with microswitches for the stick and the buttons. Just too stupid stiff for my taste.
It's pretty funny to see just how bad some of them were.
bumpkin
Member
I'm pretty excited about it. It won't have all of the details I wanted from day one, largely because I had trouble getting the artwork I needed/wanted for some etching on the top panel and whatnot. It'll still look pretty slick though, I hope. I'll definitely share pics once I get the case and get it all assembled.
Man I was having a minor hiccup getting a newly installed PS360+ to work on my Shadaloo arcade stick.
I did some googling and people were saying that there wasn't enough power being sent through USB 3.0 ports or something along those lines. The fix was to buy a powered USB 2.0 hub.
My fix was to just buy a 10ft USB 2.0 cable to replace the flimsy feeling 15 cable that came with the stick. It worked like a charm.
Just wanted to bring this up in case anyone ever runs into this issue.
I also wanted to say that the Brooks PCB is the real deal. I've been using it in my GiantSword Raven for a few days. The firmware updates for it are super simple as well. Just put the stick into boot mode and run the firmware patch. Boom.
I did some googling and people were saying that there wasn't enough power being sent through USB 3.0 ports or something along those lines. The fix was to buy a powered USB 2.0 hub.
My fix was to just buy a 10ft USB 2.0 cable to replace the flimsy feeling 15 cable that came with the stick. It worked like a charm.
Just wanted to bring this up in case anyone ever runs into this issue.
I also wanted to say that the Brooks PCB is the real deal. I've been using it in my GiantSword Raven for a few days. The firmware updates for it are super simple as well. Just put the stick into boot mode and run the firmware patch. Boom.
Hellshingu
Member
Anyone thinking of getting one of these?
http://arcadeshock.com/products/brook-universal-fighting-board-hori-vlx-ez-mod-kit-package
http://arcadeshock.com/products/brook-universal-fighting-board-hori-vlx-ez-mod-kit-package
shindoku21
Member
http://imgur.com/CfTePgE
Made a few mods to my TE-S stick in the past few months. Last month was switching out the JLF for a Hayabusa. Roomier and softer, but definitely has a premium feel to it. Then I bought some OBS-MX (Cherry Red) kits this month. I'm iffy on them. They make the buttons feel stiffer like stock Hori buttons but respond better. I don't like how you have to sort the wiring in a way so that the button doesn't get register an input from the opposite side. It'll take some time getting used to.
Next up is to change the plexi/artwork and getting different colored rims for the blue plungers. And then when EVO comes around I'll need a Brook adapter. =D
Made a few mods to my TE-S stick in the past few months. Last month was switching out the JLF for a Hayabusa. Roomier and softer, but definitely has a premium feel to it. Then I bought some OBS-MX (Cherry Red) kits this month. I'm iffy on them. They make the buttons feel stiffer like stock Hori buttons but respond better. I don't like how you have to sort the wiring in a way so that the button doesn't get register an input from the opposite side. It'll take some time getting used to.
Next up is to change the plexi/artwork and getting different colored rims for the blue plungers. And then when EVO comes around I'll need a Brook adapter. =D
GalacticAE
Member
I have a custom stick a friend gave me that has a ps1 pcb in it. my problem is that im getting constant random "left" inputs even when the stick is neutral. what could be causing this?
microswitch probably broken or just needs to be cleaned/greased would be my guess.
The Venom seems like a cheap option that's easy to mod but it doesn't seem easy to find in the US.
Edit: The mayflash F300 is another option but it's not really so much a PS4 stick as it is a universal controller adapter stuck inside a fight stick, so you need to connect a controller for the console you plan to play it on.
Thanks, the venom looks just about right for my needs without having to drop more than $150
notworksafe
Member
Got in the Gamerfinger optical joystick PCB and Brook Universal for my Chun TE-S. Now to figure out how to wire it all up and include the Remora/ArcEye setup too. Art has already been ordered from Art (lol). Excited to get this working and show it off!