Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

I don't think it matters (BrawlStick should also solve the compatibility problem with some USB chipsets that affected the SF4 line), but the PS3 version seems to be the one readily available; the 360 version is probably harder to find for more money than you're probably willing to pay.

You'd need motioninjoy or something to get it to work though right? I don't think it's PC ready right out of the box.
 
So I just bought a new black Hori Fighting Edge stick and a used UMvC 3 Hori stick (both for 360) for about $160 and $85 respectively. I only want to keep one to use with my PC.

Which do you guys think I should keep, and which should I flip? Or, alternatively, which do you think I'll be able to flip easier minimizing any losses?
 
I suck at cutting art. Gonna have my friend do it over for me:

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Cross-posting from the KI thread:

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Guys, just wanted to give you guys an update regarding the ChronusMax.

I really hadn't played much KI to date because I really, really don't like playing fighting games without an arcade stick. While waiting for a PCB mod of some kind for my already modded TE stick, I heard about this thing from GAF and ordered on off of eBay on Tuesday. It came today. Setup was very simple and they have a youtube guide to walk you through it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNGnXGSOads

I was concerned because I think someone here in this thread mentioned some compatibility issues with their modded PCB. I have the TE Kitty piggyback installed as my PCB solution, and I'm happy to report 0 problems. I just had to make sure the modded stick is in the mode that defaults to the original TE board rather than the piggyback board. The ChronusMax recognized original board and showed all the buttons working correctly in the configuration utility. I set up the software to recognize "Profile 1" (I believe you can configure a total of 9 profiles, which correspond to buttons and whatever else) as a default 360 controller plugging into an XB1, a total of about 3 button presses. Saved the profile to the stick and that was that.

Now, you do need a Micro B USB cable (like the kind that come in the box with the PS4) for the next part because the ChronusMax uses an actual controller to authenticate (convince the One that it is okay to recognize the dongle as a valid controller). You plug the controller into the dongle and wait about 3 seconds. After that, I could unplug the One controller and plug in the 360 TE stick.

And now the sauce: All buttons work as expected. I ran through every training/tutorial stage and noticed absolutely no lag, as others have reported.

Total time spent configuring: ~3 minutes after watching the Youtube instructional video.

Recommended? Hell yea. I was pretty vocal about *not* being willing to pay $200 on top of the $500 for the console just to play KI the way I wanted to. With this thing, I'm playing at my level of expectation more or less on my own terms. I certainly would have preferred that my stick was compatible without the need for a dongle, PCB mod or anything else, but with that's not an option, this is the next best thing for me.

If you have a perfectly functional 360 TE and aren't inclined to drop $200+ for yet another stick, it's the right choice right now. With no lag, there's really no reason not to unless you're happy playing with a controller instead of that TE you paid all that money for. I can't speak to whether the HRAPs and others work as expected since I don't have my HRAP3 with me right now, but I assume it works just fine as well.

$0.02

XBL: Heavenly Hammer.
 
You might not notice the lag but there are still concerns over it for both sides of the playing spectrum. It needs to be tested properly with appropriate methods to fully determine if is really lagless and if it does affect the opponent's inputs as well.

There is also the concern of implementing it in a local competitive setting. Both the original Cronus and CronusMAX units have custom macros as well as programmable combos (that's where profiles really come in, profile 0 is raw conversion), and that is a big no no for tournament rules. Organizers and runners who are ignorant of the Cronus might let a player use programmable combos progress. For the case of Killer Instinct, the CronusMAX is banned in some major tournaments so players need to either buy an Xbox One controller, a Mad Catz TE2 stick or even pad hack.

Maybe for the home, the Cronus/CronusMAX is fine but it presents a risk in tournament.

The CronusMAX company apparently are in the works of a simpler version of their model, removing things like the aforementioned macros and programmable combos. There is still the issue of latency. If they want their product to be viable in the fighting game scene, they better solve those problems.

No offense but damn everyone makes a typo on CronusMAX.
 
Cronusmax DEFINITELY causes dropped inputs on the opposing player's side on 360. Tested yesterday myself. I used the ps3 FE, my friend had a 360 stick. There were times when he was obviously pressing several buttons, but nothing at all would come out. I guess it's a known issue on the development team's side:

http://www.cronusmax.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141245

I guess it's a 360 only issue. Didn't test any other consoles, so can't say for sure myself.
 
Since IDK where to go with this question, ill ask here

Im looking for the best dpad contriller out there. The madcatz ones are nice but they cramp my hands something fierce on occasion. Id like one to work on 360, but if it only works on PC, thats fine too, as I wanna get back into Tecmo Superbowl competitive.
 
Since IDK where to go with this question, ill ask here

Im looking for the best dpad contriller out there. The madcatz ones are nice but they cramp my hands something fierce on occasion. Id like one to work on 360, but if it only works on PC, thats fine too, as I wanna get back into Tecmo Superbowl competitive.

similar to sticks, you will get varying answers.

i personally find the neogeo cd "d-pad" the best out there, but thats for me, there's a PC/PS3 version out there, as well as a PS2 version (usable with converters so it works with both ps3/360)

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the dpad is clicky and acts more like a modular joystick lever

there's also the Saturn pad which many people love. a PC/USB and PS2 versions of those exist but hard to find and are really expensive nowadays.
 
So I've been meaning to change the artwork on my stick, I've picked out some Marvel artwork I really liked (that is also high res) from Google Images and fit it within the frame/template for my stick in photoshop. I have the SoulCalibur V Hori fight stick for the 360, and I've been referred to tek-innovations to buy a new plexi-cover for my stick.

Even if I just buy it, I'm confused by some of the options. For example, what's the difference between 1/32" Clear Impact Modified Acrilic and just "1/16". Which is the one my current stick uses? But I'm also sorta confused on buying the plexi, can I not just take the template I was given, print it out at a Fed-Ex Kinko's, remove the current plexi, and just switch the artwork if it's housed underneath the glass. Excuse me if that sounds extremely stupid, I'm pretty uninformed about this.
 
This pad and the original FC3 go for like $100 second hand now. It's crazy, lol.

Still up on amazon.co.jp. But at $40 and then proxy and shipping it will be $70-ish so not much better.

Any GAFers getting the new Gundam Stick? I never ordered it as I've got a few other sticks to get on my backlog.

Plus Hori USA is holding $200 of mine hostage for the White FIghting Edge unless I send in something showing my MD address is actually me (which I don't have since all my bills are California :-( Kinda bummed about that. Either send to California or cancel, it seems.
 
So I've been meaning to change the artwork on my stick, I've picked out some Marvel artwork I really liked (that is also high res) from Google Images and fit it within the frame/template for my stick in photoshop. I have the SoulCalibur V Hori fight stick for the 360, and I've been referred to tek-innovations to buy a new plexi-cover for my stick.

Even if I just buy it, I'm confused by some of the options. For example, what's the difference between 1/32" Clear Impact Modified Acrilic and just "1/16". Which is the one my current stick uses? But I'm also sorta confused on buying the plexi, can I not just take the template I was given, print it out at a Fed-Ex Kinko's, remove the current plexi, and just switch the artwork if it's housed underneath the glass. Excuse me if that sounds extremely stupid, I'm pretty uninformed about this.

If your SoulCalibur V HORI stick is unmodified, the original artwork on the stick is actually just a huge sticker/decal that's stuck to the metal panel that is the top of your arcade stick. There's no actual plexi cover on it. So if you were to print out your artwork without a plexi, you'd have to stick it to the panel yourself (using some sort of adhesive) and it'd be unprotected from the elements, such as sweaty hands and what not.

What you'll be doing with a plexi is putting your art on top of the original artwork, then using the plexiglass cover you buy from Tek-Innovations to cover it and protect it. You'll just have to open up your stick, take out all the buttons and unscrew your joystick balltop, place your custom artwork on top of the existing art, screw the plexi in on top of it using the existing screws, then put your buttons back in.

The difference between 1/32" and 1/16" is the thickness of the plexiglass. The 1/32" Impact Modified Acrylic panel is thinner than the 1/16", but it's more durable. The 1/16" has a tendency to crack if you bend it too much, which has happened to mine. This page has a little more info.

One problem you may find with these plexis on your SoulCalibur V Hori stick is that it won't sit entirely flat on your stick. In particular, the narrow piece that rests above your control panel (outlined here) will probably be slightly raised. It won't lie flat because of how far the screws are, I guess. If you have a mild form of OCD like me, this'll bother you, so I ended up having to use some clear tape to tape the top edge of the plexi to the metal panel.

I hope this helped. It took a lot of experimentation to figure this stuff out on my own, lol.
 
If your SoulCalibur V HORI stick is unmodified, the original artwork on the stick is actually just a huge sticker/decal that's stuck to the metal panel that is the top of your arcade stick. There's no actual plexi cover on it. So if you were to print out your artwork without a plexi, you'd have to stick it to the panel yourself (using some sort of adhesive) and it'd be unprotected from the elements, such as sweaty hands and what not.
Ah ok, I definitely don't want to leave it unprotected. That is a weird way they set it up, and I was sure there was no plexi on it, but thought I was stupid, so I'm glad to know I wasn't.

What you'll be doing with a plexi is putting your art on top of the original artwork, then using the plexiglass cover you buy from Tek-Innovations to cover it and protect it. You'll just have to open up your stick, take out all the buttons and unscrew your joystick balltop, place your custom artwork on top of the existing art, screw the plexi in on top of it using the existing screws, then put your buttons back in.
I would assume that the existing screws lengths would be too short if I'm just putting a Plexi and artwork on top of the existing artwork, no? I mean, I don't know their lengths but they were probably designed only to get the metal plate screwed in, but I know that plexi and the artwork won't be very thick. It sounds simple enough, just the length of the screws seems like it'd be an issue.

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The difference between 1/32" and 1/16" is the thickness of the plexiglass. The 1/32" Impact Modified Acrylic panel is thinner than the 1/16", but it's more durable. The 1/16" has a tendency to crack if you bend it too much, which has happened to mine. This page has a little more info.
Ok nice! I'll definitely be buying 1/32" Impact Modified then, looks very durable and I'd rather deal with minimum chances of cracking.
One problem you may find with these plexis on your SoulCalibur V Hori stick is that it won't sit entirely flat on your stick. In particular, the narrow piece that rests above your control panel (outlined here) will probably be slightly raised. It won't lie flat because of how far the screws are, I guess. If you have a mild form of OCD like me, this'll bother you, so I ended up having to use some clear tape to tape the top edge of the plexi to the metal panel.
It would really bother me if it was in the center where my hands would be resting, but I don't think it'll be a big deal for me. I'll do anything to get rid of this awful Soul Calibur artwork.
I hope this helped. It took a lot of experimentation to figure this stuff out on my own, lol.
It helps a lot, I appreciate that you went through so much to make your stick how you'd like and your helping me with mine. I really do appreciate it.
 
i dont trust HORI's dpad, it looks stiff.. how does it compare to supafami controllers?

It is very stiff. But I do tend to like stiffer pads. It is also pretty low-profile. Tighter than the super fami pad for sure, but it does loosen up a bit. Not as loosey-goosey as the Saturn pad. Fwiw, I'd rank the super fami as my favorite and then the PC-Engine as my second. Saturn is way down on the list for me...as are most Sega pads (yes, in the minority there).
 
I would assume that the existing screws lengths would be too short if I'm just putting a Plexi and artwork on top of the existing artwork, no? I mean, I don't know their lengths but they were probably designed only to get the metal plate screwed in, but I know that plexi and the artwork won't be very thick. It sounds simple enough, just the length of the screws seems like it'd be an issue.

The existing screws should be fine. I have the exact same stick as you. Only problem with the screws is that, internally, they're held in place by these metal nuts, and while screwing them back in, the nuts sometimes fall out and you have to put them back in.
 
The existing screws should be fine. I have the exact same stick as you. Only problem with the screws is that, internally, they're held in place by these metal nuts, and while screwing them back in, the nuts sometimes fall out and you have to put them back in.

Oh, that's no big deal then. I think I'll go and order a standard 1/32" Impact Modified plexi with button etches on them and see if I can go print the template/artwork out a Kinko's tomorrow. Also, with the method of replacing the art you've told me, I could print multiple/different artworks and replace them from time to time easily by just removing the plexi and switching them? Thank you for all your help!

Out of curiosity, have you dual modded your stick? I'm trying to look into that as well.
 
fat chance, but does anyone know if this joystick for the super famicom is microswitched?

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its called the "ASCII Fighter Stick SPECIAL", it looks like the buttons aren't, but the lever seems like its copying the AES stick, so it might be a 'real' joystick?
 
thinking about sticking a Crown FK into my VLX. Anyone have any experience or thoughts towards this? I've picked up on the fact that I need to use a harness as well, but was wondering if anyone has already installed one and if it fits ok etc.
 
thinking about sticking a Crown FK into my VLX. Anyone have any experience or thoughts towards this? I've picked up on the fact that I need to use a harness as well, but was wondering if anyone has already installed one and if it fits ok etc.

303FK/A models are meant to mount into panels that can easily equip Sanwa JLF levers. It should be able to mount onto a Hori VLX with no issues. Just unscrew the JLF and insert the 303FK/A with the same screws.
 
My friend got a CronusMax for Killer Instinct on Xbox One for his Hitbox. Works amazingly well. That being said Killer Instinct doesn't really have tight combos like KoFXIII so I'm not sure how much of a delay there is, but I'm definitely going to get one.
 
303FK/A models are meant to mount into panels that can easily equip Sanwa JLF levers. It should be able to mount onto a Hori VLX with no issues. Just unscrew the JLF and insert the 303FK/A with the same screws.

That's cool, thanks man. I was going from the fact that with a TE you have to bend one of the terminals to ensure that it sits in ok. I'm pretty excited now, should be here in a few days :D
 
I've been a long time owner of the VSHG, I recently sold mine off, but I'll say in terms of build quality, it's one of my favorite sticks and I love it comes 6 button out of the box, and the weight on it really nice. But that obnoxious input problem in some models was a real deal breaker, unless you mod it with a new pcb. Strangely the input problem only happened when I played games on the PS3, if I used it on the PC, it was perfectly fine. I bought my first VSHG to use on my PC at the time, but then I got a PS3, tried playing Street Fighter 4 on it and realized I could not do Ultra's lol.

My only other complaint about the VSHG is I wish it had a bit more wrist room. I didn't mind the button layout so much, although it was a bit annoying when navigating PS3 game menu's and stuff.

Such a shame Sega doesn't produce their own controllers anymore.
 
1. The button layout is fucked up for any game that isn't VF5
2. First run of the stick had issues with 3+ inputs.
3. Can't mount Korean sticks as far as I know.

Both stick runs had issues with Tekken :(

Also ran into the issue with first version and MAME.
 
Problems aside, it is still a sexy stick. Best build for price, perfect size, six button. I never use it but it is in my top five of my collection. It belongs in a stick collection, I feel. Couple of Horis above it.
 
1. The button layout is fucked up for any game that isn't VF5
2. First run of the stick had issues with 3+ inputs.
3. Can't mount Korean sticks as far as I know.

Couldn't you just remap stuff in-game, even though that's still a minor annoyance?
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Aesthetically, I don't like how there's a "lip" along the sides since they're narrower than the top surface. Some Horis have that same look, and I'm just not a fan. I think my GOAT stick based on the limited amount of time I've been into sticks and based on what I've seen of them, would be the VLX or SFxT Vs. (which look awesome connected). I'd love to see that design revisited, especially since it's a little more affordable than a VLX.
 
EX-SE for me as GOAT. Then Vewlix DIA. Then probably VSHG folllowed by MC Namco and the big Sega Saturn. Last one is not really that great as it is too big but one of the most unique. That old unproduced Sega stick MarkMan posted on his site is such a wet dream. Damn shame they never made that. Wonder what happened to that fugly Sanwa poolcase stick that showed up a fee years back. I'd also love to have a Micomsoft XAC-1 with an astro panel but no way to get it shipped.
 
Both stick runs had issues with Tekken :(

Woah woah, really? I've been playing TTT2 with mine and haven't noticed anything 'off'. Occasionally I find that maybe a 1+2 will come out as just one of them, but as best I could tell from looking at the inputs in Training mode, that was just me fucking up the input. Are there any solid, 100% certain issues with the VSHG in TTT2?

Goddamn, I fucking love mine, though. I don't own many sticks, but the VSHG is my favourite by miles, aesthetically and layout-wise.
 
EX-SE for me as GOAT. Then Vewlix DIA. Then probably VSHG folllowed by MC Namco and the big Sega Saturn. Last one is not really that great as it is too big but one of the most unique. That old unproduced Sega stick MarkMan posted on his site is such a wet dream. Damn shame they never made that. Wonder what happened to that fugly Sanwa poolcase stick that showed up a fee years back. I'd also love to have a Micomsoft XAC-1 with an astro panel but no way to get it shipped.
Viewlix DIA takes the cake for me. That thing is straight-up decadent. I'd put the Sanwa version of the etokki Omni in a close second place. I love minimalist design when it comes to sticks. The branded artwork of most mass-produced sticks doesn't do it for me.
 
Hi

I'm building a cabinet and haven't ordered parts in a few years. I noticed the links in the OP aren't.

Is there a list of places gaffers go to order stick parts?

Sorry if I just missed it, and thanks.
 
I got the "TEKKEN TAG TOURNAMENT 2 Arcade FightStick™: Tournament Edition S for Wii U™" today. Let's start off with the bad.

- There was no hex tool included.

- Maybe the Wii U version only gets one piece of art, I don't know, but I only got the broken glass art. I thought it came with the other one with the Tekken girls too.

- The actual box that it shipped it was opened and resealed with masking tape.

- The little bag attached to the box which included the packing list was torn open.

- The actual stick's box was opened and the sticker that sealed the box folded inwards and stuck to the sticky side.

- The button layout of the stick makes it, I wouldn't say useless, but less than ideal for Wii games. The layout is

Y X R L
B A ZR ZL

For comparison, the TVC stick's layout is

Y X L ZL
B A R ZR

This isn't a big problem for Wii U Virtual Console, since I can remap the buttons for any game in the VC menu, but it is for Wii VC in Wii mode on Wii U, because SNES games don't recognize ZL and ZR at all.

The good

- The stick looks nice. I like the old TE design much better than the SFXT sticks and the colors work pretty well with the broken glass art.

- The size and weight of the whole thing is great. Finally, the Wii has a full-sized stick.

- I didn't think I was going to like the Noir layout, but it's actually not an issue. I think it is just as comfortable to play with as the Vewlix layout.

- The level and buttons all feel great and are very responsive, just as I would expect from Sanwa parts.

- I got it for $79.99 + shipping for a grand total of $90.99. http://store.madcatz.com/platforms/...FightStick-Tournament-Edition-S-for-WiiU.html

pics!

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Tekken Wii U TE S

I got the same deal through the Madcatz store. It is a little confusing on the store page, but only the S+ models get the hex tool and extra art. As for the buttons, I'd just swap the connections so L and R are where you want them, then you can always re-map for Tekken or other Wii U VC games.

$80 is a great price for that stick,
 
Woah woah, really? I've been playing TTT2 with mine and haven't noticed anything 'off'. Occasionally I find that maybe a 1+2 will come out as just one of them, but as best I could tell from looking at the inputs in Training mode, that was just me fucking up the input. Are there any solid, 100% certain issues with the VSHG in TTT2?

Goddamn, I fucking love mine, though. I don't own many sticks, but the VSHG is my favourite by miles, aesthetically and layout-wise.

Judging by the time of release, the issues were probably with T5DR HD.
 
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