JonnyDBrit
Member
Tried the enabling Hardware Acceleration option - was disabled for me for some reason. Will see how this goes.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Tried the enabling Hardware Acceleration option - was disabled for me for some reason. Will see how this goes.
I need some help. I've reinstalled my computer for the third time now and I am trying to update everything Windows 7 related through Windows Update. I just left my computer on for 12 hours straight looking for updates and when I came home from work it was still doing it.
I've installed as much as I can think of manually through Microsofts support pages. Service Pack 1, Windows 7 Convenience Rollup Pack, Windows 7 Update Agent Upgrade, VCRedist 2010, 2012, 2013, 2015 and a few more. It is still looking for updates it can't seem to find and I am starting to suspect that Microsoft have deliberately just broken their update system for any older Windows OS.
Any ideas what to do?
I've installed as much as I can think of manually through Microsofts support pages. Service Pack 1, Windows 7 Convenience Rollup Pack, Windows 7 Update Agent Upgrade, VCRedist 2010, 2012, 2013, 2015 and a few more. It is still looking for updates it can't seem to find and I am starting to suspect that Microsoft have deliberately just broken their update system for any older Windows OS.
Any ideas what to do?
Thanks a lot! Going to try that out now.
Earthpainting
Member
Do you see your emails if you change your filter to "Done"? The reason I'm asking is because this looks like the "Inbox" app, rather than the "Gmail" one. Inbox' philosophy is to mark emails as "done", archive them away, and work towards an empty inbox. You can still find your archived mails under the Done filter, or by searching for them in the box.
Are you sure this is your gmail app, and not the inbox app? Inbox' philosophy
well its the same app ive been using for years so nothing really should have changed.
But i did check my app today and it seems to show a couple new itmes in my 'inbox' as they would appear normally
The app itself is called 'inbox'.
Seems like my items got transferred to their categories, archived, so I guess you are right in that regard.
Edit: I thnk i know what happened. I think my buttcheek must have accidentally pressed the 'done' button (The tick in the pic above) which moved everything into that done folder..
arghh..
Earthpainting
Member
I fear that's a very likely scenario. For individual mails, it takes a swipe, which is harder to do by accident, but the tick button lets you archive them in bulk by date. At least they aren't completely deleted, so it could have been worse.
This is indeed it. NVidia had some driver issues that made Chrome sometimes freeze the browser for a few seconds when you were streaming certain video formats, or introduced black compression artefacts at the start of them. Disabling Hardware Acceleration got rid of both problems, but instead introduced some tearing instead. Since tearing seemed like the preferably option, they probably pushed that change until nvidia sorted their shit out. I re-enabled my hardware acceleration earlier this week, and things seemed fine again.
cjp
Junior Member
Got PC boot up issues.
I press the power button, get a flash of green (the power LED, usually a steady green), the fans spin up for a split second and then nothing.
Curiously enough, it's only an intermittent problem. Not confirmed it but it seems as though it seems to happen if the PC has been powered down for a while.
I was thinking a dodgy PSU but I'm not sure.
Any ideas?
I press the power button, get a flash of green (the power LED, usually a steady green), the fans spin up for a split second and then nothing.
Curiously enough, it's only an intermittent problem. Not confirmed it but it seems as though it seems to happen if the PC has been powered down for a while.
I was thinking a dodgy PSU but I'm not sure.
Any ideas?
Poker Face
Member
So my cursor is randomly jumping around all of the sudden. I'll boot up my PC and things are okay...then the cursor feels a little less response...then it's jumping around.
I'm on a MSI laptop with Windows 10 if that info helps at all. Hoping it's software issues, but I'm guessing its hardware :/.
I'm on a MSI laptop with Windows 10 if that info helps at all. Hoping it's software issues, but I'm guessing its hardware :/.
Okay I'll post in here to see if anyone wiser than me can solve this.
I have a computer on 64 bit windows 8.1 with 8gb of installed RAM. On the computer properties screen, it says 4.25GB usable.
I found an option in msconfig 'computer management' in the 'boot' tab that limited the ram for some reason. So I deleted the value and it restarted. Voila 8gb in properties.
However, every boot since then, the same issue appears. The limit is still removed. I haven't found any settings in the bios (unless I missed it) so I don't know what is causing this issue.
Any help is really appreciated!
I have a computer on 64 bit windows 8.1 with 8gb of installed RAM. On the computer properties screen, it says 4.25GB usable.
I found an option in msconfig 'computer management' in the 'boot' tab that limited the ram for some reason. So I deleted the value and it restarted. Voila 8gb in properties.
However, every boot since then, the same issue appears. The limit is still removed. I haven't found any settings in the bios (unless I missed it) so I don't know what is causing this issue.
Any help is really appreciated!
TheContact
Member
You try resetting your bios settings to default?
Guys I am a bit stuck.
I have a Shogun Bros Ballista MK-1 mouse and all of a sudden it has started not registering 70% of my left mouse clicks. I have restarted my computer and changed the plug the USB is plugged into and it still isn't working correctly.
Is it a mechanical issue or a driver issue or something else entirely?
I have a Shogun Bros Ballista MK-1 mouse and all of a sudden it has started not registering 70% of my left mouse clicks. I have restarted my computer and changed the plug the USB is plugged into and it still isn't working correctly.
Is it a mechanical issue or a driver issue or something else entirely?
Need some new help again.
When playing games, it usually runs perfectly fine but then occasionally the screen freezes and the sound goes absolutely apeshit and loud and I have to restart the computer. I dunno if its hardware issues or something else, according to HWMonitor the temperatures are fine. And I've updated all graphical drivers and also Windows drivers. This doesn't happen in just graphically intense games, it happens in both games like Battlefield 1 and also World of Warcraft.
I have a:
intel i5 6600K.
Geforce 1070 GTX from ASUS.
Z170 Pro Gaming motherboard.
I am getting really worried as a lot of this stuff is brand new.
When playing games, it usually runs perfectly fine but then occasionally the screen freezes and the sound goes absolutely apeshit and loud and I have to restart the computer. I dunno if its hardware issues or something else, according to HWMonitor the temperatures are fine. And I've updated all graphical drivers and also Windows drivers. This doesn't happen in just graphically intense games, it happens in both games like Battlefield 1 and also World of Warcraft.
I have a:
intel i5 6600K.
Geforce 1070 GTX from ASUS.
Z170 Pro Gaming motherboard.
I am getting really worried as a lot of this stuff is brand new.
Oracle Dragon
Member
I have a problem with clicking audio when I am recording. I recently got a GTX1060 and was quite excited to try the shadowplay video recording for both local and streaming.
Unfortunatly, there is a click sound no matter what I record. This isn't a static/hiss/pop kind of thing, this is a highly audible and repeating click, for exaomple here is a sample I reocrded of World of Warcraft (although the clicking persists in any game):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJVssYBJmWI
I'm not sure what it could be... is it related to my sound card being USB? (It is a Fiio E10 as I use headphones for gaming). Is there some test or configuration I can try?
I'd like to get this fixed because otherwise the performance of the recording feature is quite good, I hardly notice that it is on.
Unfortunatly, there is a click sound no matter what I record. This isn't a static/hiss/pop kind of thing, this is a highly audible and repeating click, for exaomple here is a sample I reocrded of World of Warcraft (although the clicking persists in any game):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJVssYBJmWI
I'm not sure what it could be... is it related to my sound card being USB? (It is a Fiio E10 as I use headphones for gaming). Is there some test or configuration I can try?
I'd like to get this fixed because otherwise the performance of the recording feature is quite good, I hardly notice that it is on.
This is a new mouse? How long have you had it? If it's under warranty I'd RMA it. If it's old it might have dirty contacts or just be dying
I've had for about three or four years after my old mouse met a similar fate. Dirty contacts? What are they?
Oracle Dragon
Member
It can certainly be a mechanical problem with your description. The only thing you can do is take the mouse apart and see if there is gunk under the button(s). If there are large gaps between the buttons and the mouse (my Razrs had this a lot) you may be able to take a peek without taking it apart, and maybe even clean it out with compressed air or something.... I used to have to do it to my original Razr mice frequently due to their huge floaty buttons. If you eat and use the PC at the same time, this will be a more common problem.
If there is nothing obvious it can be a failure of internal circuity in which case just replace the mouse... if it stood up to 4 years of gaming it's done it's time
Daffy Duck
Member
So, one of the Linux servers at work running WHM had a site on that was being attacked via xmlrpc, isolated the site and all good, however MySQL has been screwed since in the sense that it will not recognise connections to the database for other sites with the address 127.0.0.1, only localhost works.
Any idea what's up with that?
It's running an out of date MariaDB version so one of the jobs is to upgrade that, but i don't want to upgrade if it will permanently break something.
I'm assuming this is related to the attack because I could access it remotely via HeidiSQL before the site got attacked.
Any idea what's up with that?
It's running an out of date MariaDB version so one of the jobs is to upgrade that, but i don't want to upgrade if it will permanently break something.
I'm assuming this is related to the attack because I could access it remotely via HeidiSQL before the site got attacked.
Oracle Dragon
Member
I can't comment anything on the nature of the attack you had experienced: however I've dabbled a bit with MySQL at work and it has an authorization table that allows certain users to connect remotely from authorized hosts (or from any remote host). The default behavior of MySQL is to allow localhost only (IIRC?) for privileged accounts. Try something like the following:
http://stackoverflow.com/questions/8348506/grant-remote-access-of-mysql-database-from-any-ip-address
What kind of graphics are you using (integrated or dedicated)? I know this situation can happen when integrated graphics shares memory with the cpu. But if you are using integrated, I don't think it would show as having 8gb after a reboot.
Yeah I should have mentioned that. I have a graphics card but in other computers I've used it automatically removes any RAM reserves for graphics if you plug in a card. There's no reason for it to take 3.5 gb of ram either way.
Daffy Duck
Member
Thanks, I'll give that a look, I do think we set it up our IP address on the server as an authorised remote access address.
Oracle Dragon
Member
I think I got this one, if you are having the same sort of thing... it seems to happen with Shadowplay if you had set it up to use a microphone before, and then you later try recording without the microphone plugged in but have not turned it off in the overlay. It keeps trying to find it, and this appears to cause the clicking noise. I plugged my mic back in and enabled it, and audio recorded properly without the clicking. I then repeated the testing with the mic unplugged, but also disabled / turned off in the Nvidia overlay, and no more clicking.
I needed a new mouse after my G500 died and I went for a G502. It's great, but my hand grip makes me sometimes accidentally press the mouse sensitivity up button during gameplay, a problem I haven't had with other mice. Is there a way in the software to make it so that those buttons will only change mouse sensitivity if I double click them? I think that would solve my issues.
hersheyfan
Member
Hi guys, at my wits end with my rig.
The GPU stops outputting any signal every so often, usually right before I begin a session. When I hook up the HDMI cable to the mobo, the integrated GPU displays Windows, meaning the discrete GPU is deactivated.
I've taken the entire rig back to shop for testing thrice (the entire thing is still under warranty)... the first time, it inexplicably worked when I got to the shop, and I managed to play 30 minutes of Doom at the store, in front of the attendant (which was embarassing).
I take it home, true enough it stops working 5 minutes after I turn on the PC. I take it right back the same day, and this time it fails to emit signal (but the mobo works). Guy takes it in for review and possible replacement.
He begins testing it a day or so later, and he texts me saying the GPU started working again and is fine - he ran Furmark on and off over the past few days without incident. I take it back from the shop, and manage to game on it for a day or two before it stops working again.
I take it back for a third time, and it refuses to boot again, in front of the same tech guy. He finally agrees to have the GPU replaced (thank God), and says that he'll run a bunch of tests on my PC with a different GPU to check if there are any other parts broken.
Any ideas as to what might be causing this? My faith in this tech store dude is decreasing by the day, and I really just want to be able to use my regular rig again. Here's my specs, in case it helps:
i7 6700 4.0ghz
Palit GTX970 4GB Jetstream
MSI Krait Z170A
Kingston Fury Black 16GB RAM (2x 8GB DDR4)
Seagate 3TB HDD
FSP 750w power supply
Thanks!
The GPU stops outputting any signal every so often, usually right before I begin a session. When I hook up the HDMI cable to the mobo, the integrated GPU displays Windows, meaning the discrete GPU is deactivated.
I've taken the entire rig back to shop for testing thrice (the entire thing is still under warranty)... the first time, it inexplicably worked when I got to the shop, and I managed to play 30 minutes of Doom at the store, in front of the attendant (which was embarassing).
I take it home, true enough it stops working 5 minutes after I turn on the PC. I take it right back the same day, and this time it fails to emit signal (but the mobo works). Guy takes it in for review and possible replacement.
He begins testing it a day or so later, and he texts me saying the GPU started working again and is fine - he ran Furmark on and off over the past few days without incident. I take it back from the shop, and manage to game on it for a day or two before it stops working again.
I take it back for a third time, and it refuses to boot again, in front of the same tech guy. He finally agrees to have the GPU replaced (thank God), and says that he'll run a bunch of tests on my PC with a different GPU to check if there are any other parts broken.
Any ideas as to what might be causing this? My faith in this tech store dude is decreasing by the day, and I really just want to be able to use my regular rig again. Here's my specs, in case it helps:
i7 6700 4.0ghz
Palit GTX970 4GB Jetstream
MSI Krait Z170A
Kingston Fury Black 16GB RAM (2x 8GB DDR4)
Seagate 3TB HDD
FSP 750w power supply
Thanks!
Piston Hyundai
Member
Still having this issue.
wvnative
Member
I got several tech issues at the moment lol. I'll categorize each.
Surround sound EQ
Have an LG surround sound system using the included blu ray player as the receiver. Got my directTV box and PS3 connected to it via HDMI. This thing is a POS imo. Randomly explodes in static noise at high levels like once a month. Scares the heck outta the whole house as well as my animals. Gotta reconnect it to make it stop. But this happens rarely.
The main issue is a few months ago, the preset sound effects "Natural, Natural Plus, etc..." got messed up. Each sound effect highlights the channel and speakers used, then all of a sudden we noticed the sound was off. But each preset sounded wrong. We checked the menus and all of em were no longer where they used to be. This system doesn't seem to have an option to adjust each preset. We tried factory reset, unplugging it, nothing worked.
Next day, it magically fixed itself. Everything sounded good again.
Well last week it happened again, only this time it has yet to fix itself. Looking through the presets I noticed none of the presets are using 5.1. When I know at least a few of them used too. Once again, unplugged it, factory reset it, nothing worked. How do I fix this? I miss my 5.1. Everything is 2.1, 3.1 or 4.1 and all sound awful.
SONY TV WOES
I will preface this by saying while they are absolutely stunning to look at when calibrated properly, I will never buy another Sony TV cause I keep having tech issues with them. But i'm stuck with the one I got for now.
TV has randomly restarted twice this past week... in the middle of firefights in Battlefield 1 no less. Comes right back on though. But what causes this? (To be fair my samsung tv in the living room does this... like once a month or so, but we don't game on it and it seems to only do it when no one else is in the room so no one believes me...)
But my main concern is another issue it's been having, when I wake up in the morning, the TV sometimes... won't power on at all. This has happened twice in the past month. Gotta unplug and replug it. But then after plugging it back in, there is like a several second delay before it powers on. This scares the hell outta me cause I wake up thinking the TV is toast.
This tv is a 65 inch Sony Android TV, it was a replacement for a 60 inch Sony TV I got last year that developed a green line down the middle... Sony support was a fun experience...
Anyways these issues aren't frequent enough to call sony support, heck I don't know if this replacement tv is even covered under support. But I'd like some thoughts on what you guys think might be causing these issues.
I also have a laptop issue but I'ma save that for another time cause I think I have a solid plan of attack on that issue.
Surround sound EQ
Have an LG surround sound system using the included blu ray player as the receiver. Got my directTV box and PS3 connected to it via HDMI. This thing is a POS imo. Randomly explodes in static noise at high levels like once a month. Scares the heck outta the whole house as well as my animals. Gotta reconnect it to make it stop. But this happens rarely.
The main issue is a few months ago, the preset sound effects "Natural, Natural Plus, etc..." got messed up. Each sound effect highlights the channel and speakers used, then all of a sudden we noticed the sound was off. But each preset sounded wrong. We checked the menus and all of em were no longer where they used to be. This system doesn't seem to have an option to adjust each preset. We tried factory reset, unplugging it, nothing worked.
Next day, it magically fixed itself. Everything sounded good again.
Well last week it happened again, only this time it has yet to fix itself. Looking through the presets I noticed none of the presets are using 5.1. When I know at least a few of them used too. Once again, unplugged it, factory reset it, nothing worked. How do I fix this? I miss my 5.1. Everything is 2.1, 3.1 or 4.1 and all sound awful.
SONY TV WOES
I will preface this by saying while they are absolutely stunning to look at when calibrated properly, I will never buy another Sony TV cause I keep having tech issues with them. But i'm stuck with the one I got for now.
TV has randomly restarted twice this past week... in the middle of firefights in Battlefield 1 no less. Comes right back on though. But what causes this? (To be fair my samsung tv in the living room does this... like once a month or so, but we don't game on it and it seems to only do it when no one else is in the room so no one believes me...)
But my main concern is another issue it's been having, when I wake up in the morning, the TV sometimes... won't power on at all. This has happened twice in the past month. Gotta unplug and replug it. But then after plugging it back in, there is like a several second delay before it powers on. This scares the hell outta me cause I wake up thinking the TV is toast.
This tv is a 65 inch Sony Android TV, it was a replacement for a 60 inch Sony TV I got last year that developed a green line down the middle... Sony support was a fun experience...
Anyways these issues aren't frequent enough to call sony support, heck I don't know if this replacement tv is even covered under support. But I'd like some thoughts on what you guys think might be causing these issues.
I also have a laptop issue but I'ma save that for another time cause I think I have a solid plan of attack on that issue.
wvnative
Member
No. lol. I just have some insanely bad luck, even though I take good care of my shit.
is this most likely my router or ipad?
sometimes youtube or twitter, won't load anything on my ipad, seems to happen randomly, ie i go to load more tweets and it just hangs. i close the app then reopen and that fixes it pretty much everytime with no issues. started happening in the last few months, multiple times a day. very annoying.
thanks.
sometimes youtube or twitter, won't load anything on my ipad, seems to happen randomly, ie i go to load more tweets and it just hangs. i close the app then reopen and that fixes it pretty much everytime with no issues. started happening in the last few months, multiple times a day. very annoying.
thanks.
Captain Pants
Killed by a goddamned Dredgeling
I'm having some really frustrating sound issues with my new MSI GT72VR laptop. My Realtek Audio driver is borked. It distorts my sound. When I replace it with the generic Windows HD Audio driver, I get good audio on everything, except that I get no sound out of my games.
Every article I've found about distorted sound from Realtek drivers says that I need to go to 'playback devices' and open the properties of my speakers and disable audio enhancements in the 'enhancements' tab, but I don't have an enhancement tab available to me. When I click on properties it just shows 'General' 'Levels' and 'Advanced'.
I feel like I'm stuck trying to fix the Realtek driver, as I can't find any articles about the Windows HD Audio driver not working for games.
I hope I'm making sense, and I hope someone can help me.
edit: In case anyone googles this having similar troubles, I solved it by uninstalling Nahimic 2.
Every article I've found about distorted sound from Realtek drivers says that I need to go to 'playback devices' and open the properties of my speakers and disable audio enhancements in the 'enhancements' tab, but I don't have an enhancement tab available to me. When I click on properties it just shows 'General' 'Levels' and 'Advanced'.
I feel like I'm stuck trying to fix the Realtek driver, as I can't find any articles about the Windows HD Audio driver not working for games.
I hope I'm making sense, and I hope someone can help me.
edit: In case anyone googles this having similar troubles, I solved it by uninstalling Nahimic 2.
FantasticMrSnake
Member
Hello guys,
A shoot in the dark but: my personal laptop's keyboard and trackpad stop working ¬¬, (I know is Win10 because they work on the bios, It's a Lenovo yoga 500, the one that you can conver to tablet, so Windows must be thinking it's in tablet mode or something like that, because it disables the keyboard when you flip it).
I already tried: uninstall drivers, put generic drivers, reset bios settings, start in safe mode, still doesn't work. didn't try removing the battery yet because it's a pain in the ass to remove it.
TLDR: lenovo yoga 500 keyboard trackpad stop working WIN10
Any other ideas to try?
Thanks.
A shoot in the dark but: my personal laptop's keyboard and trackpad stop working ¬¬, (I know is Win10 because they work on the bios, It's a Lenovo yoga 500, the one that you can conver to tablet, so Windows must be thinking it's in tablet mode or something like that, because it disables the keyboard when you flip it).
I already tried: uninstall drivers, put generic drivers, reset bios settings, start in safe mode, still doesn't work. didn't try removing the battery yet because it's a pain in the ass to remove it.
TLDR: lenovo yoga 500 keyboard trackpad stop working WIN10
Any other ideas to try?
Thanks.
So my TVs HDMI input is acting all weird. I thought it was faulty cos it doesnt show an imagi if I connect my tv box nor my PS4 via it (it keeps flashing black and the audio plays for a couple of seconds) but then I plugged in my Macbook via a cheap chinese dvi to hdmi converter and it works without a hiccup. Now, anyone got any ideas how I can rectify this? I myseflt though its a case of HDCP going haywire on the TV and I should try some cheap way to strip it from the signal and see if it works then. Anyone got an idea how to do that? Would using a DVI cable do the trick or does that support HDCP as well?
Baleoce
Member
Can anyone who uses either MSI Afterburner or RivaTuner load this log file and tell me what is going on for the middle entry? (27-11-206 14:22:10) It's from when a crash occured after starting up a game.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/68082533/MSI Afterburner Logs/27-11-2016.hml
I'm at my wits end with my PC as of late. Constantly crashing during games. The OS is up to date, the drivers are as well. Happens only with intensive games tbh. This morning I logged into safe mode and used DDU to get rid of everything driver wise, and reinstalled from fresh. Still crashed a few minutes into playing Overwatch. I'm just wondering if there's something on the graph that will lead me in the right direction.
I did a memory test, there were no issues. All I can think of now is that there's a problem with the voltage / power supply / USB. And I have no idea how to diagnose any of those issues. Event Viewer gives me nothing as well.
Any help would be much appreciated.
EDIT - Alternatively:
Event Viewer has eventID 13 a lot (source: nvlddmkm) \Device\Video8
Graphics Exception: ESR 0x404490=0x80000002
and lots of EventID 41 task Category (63) Kernel-Power: The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
System Build
==========
CPU: i7 950 (@3.8GHz)
RAM: 6GB Corsair (3x2GB) DDR3 1600
Mobo: Gigabyte X58A-UD3R
GPU: MSI Geforce 760 Twin Frozr
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-550VX
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/68082533/MSI Afterburner Logs/27-11-2016.hml
I'm at my wits end with my PC as of late. Constantly crashing during games. The OS is up to date, the drivers are as well. Happens only with intensive games tbh. This morning I logged into safe mode and used DDU to get rid of everything driver wise, and reinstalled from fresh. Still crashed a few minutes into playing Overwatch. I'm just wondering if there's something on the graph that will lead me in the right direction.
I did a memory test, there were no issues. All I can think of now is that there's a problem with the voltage / power supply / USB. And I have no idea how to diagnose any of those issues. Event Viewer gives me nothing as well.
Any help would be much appreciated.
EDIT - Alternatively:
Event Viewer has eventID 13 a lot (source: nvlddmkm) \Device\Video8
Graphics Exception: ESR 0x404490=0x80000002
and lots of EventID 41 task Category (63) Kernel-Power: The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
System Build
==========
CPU: i7 950 (@3.8GHz)
RAM: 6GB Corsair (3x2GB) DDR3 1600
Mobo: Gigabyte X58A-UD3R
GPU: MSI Geforce 760 Twin Frozr
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-550VX
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Horseticuffs
Full werewolf off the buckle
Guys, weird question. Just got a 4k TV I'm using as a PC display. I've got a gtx 970 so I've decided to try a custom resolution of 1440p. Only game that's causing problems is Shadow Warrior 2.
It's showing up as a smaller area in the middle of the screen. I've got it set to full screen. No other game does this.
Anyone have any clues? Please, I'm at my wit's end. Literally the only things I changed was setting everything to high and changing the resolution.
If it helps: 1440p is not a listed resolution on my TV. I had to create it with Nvidia display settings program.
EDIT: Resolved.
It's showing up as a smaller area in the middle of the screen. I've got it set to full screen. No other game does this.
Anyone have any clues? Please, I'm at my wit's end. Literally the only things I changed was setting everything to high and changing the resolution.
If it helps: 1440p is not a listed resolution on my TV. I had to create it with Nvidia display settings program.
EDIT: Resolved.
Well, I'll give this a shot:
LAPTOP SPECS
i7-4790K (8MB L3 Cache, 4.0GHz)
Nvidia GeForce GTX 970M / 6GB GDDR5
16GB Kingston Hyper X CL11 Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM @ 1866MHz - 2 x 8 GB
256GB Micron M600 M.2 SSD
1TB 7200rpm SATA2 HDD
The laptop will not turn on when the POWER button is pressed to initiate the device without restarting several times. It will hum for a few seconds, screen remaining unlit, and initiate a restart automatically and repeat the process for several minutes / hours. Once the screen ultimately turns on, the laptop will proceed as normal as the "SAGER" splash screen comes on, until the password screen comes up.
On the bottom right, the I/O button will only show SHUTDOWN / RESTART as opposed to SHUTDOWN / RESTART / SLEEP. When the SLEEP option is not shown, the NVIDIA 970M Graphics Card will be shown to have a status of ERROR 43 in the Device Manager, with the intergraded graphics driver taking over. Restarting the laptop will only proceed to repeat the startup problem mentioned before and I was only able to get the NVIDIA Graphics Card to work after multiple restarts for approx. 6 to 8 times.
Initiating a System Restore to a previous working date did not produce results. Updating the NVIDIA driver (as of Nov18) did not produce results. Resetting my BIOS settings back to factory also did nothing. Disabling the NVIDIA Graphics Card made the computer start up without any issues (Apart from having a worthless graphics card running the laptop).
As of writing this, the computer will not restart if running on battery power but will continue to restart if plugged in.
I want to say that my graphics card is pretty much borked at this point, would my best course of action be sending it back to the manufacturer unless I'm overlooking something?
LAPTOP SPECS
i7-4790K (8MB L3 Cache, 4.0GHz)
Nvidia GeForce GTX 970M / 6GB GDDR5
16GB Kingston Hyper X CL11 Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM @ 1866MHz - 2 x 8 GB
256GB Micron M600 M.2 SSD
1TB 7200rpm SATA2 HDD
The laptop will not turn on when the POWER button is pressed to initiate the device without restarting several times. It will hum for a few seconds, screen remaining unlit, and initiate a restart automatically and repeat the process for several minutes / hours. Once the screen ultimately turns on, the laptop will proceed as normal as the "SAGER" splash screen comes on, until the password screen comes up.
On the bottom right, the I/O button will only show SHUTDOWN / RESTART as opposed to SHUTDOWN / RESTART / SLEEP. When the SLEEP option is not shown, the NVIDIA 970M Graphics Card will be shown to have a status of ERROR 43 in the Device Manager, with the intergraded graphics driver taking over. Restarting the laptop will only proceed to repeat the startup problem mentioned before and I was only able to get the NVIDIA Graphics Card to work after multiple restarts for approx. 6 to 8 times.
Initiating a System Restore to a previous working date did not produce results. Updating the NVIDIA driver (as of Nov18) did not produce results. Resetting my BIOS settings back to factory also did nothing. Disabling the NVIDIA Graphics Card made the computer start up without any issues (Apart from having a worthless graphics card running the laptop).
As of writing this, the computer will not restart if running on battery power but will continue to restart if plugged in.
I want to say that my graphics card is pretty much borked at this point, would my best course of action be sending it back to the manufacturer unless I'm overlooking something?
IISANDERII
Member
Are some telephone lines unable to carry an Internet signal? I bought a longer wire from a computer shoppe and it's labelled VOICE, Reverse-Wire and it also says 6 position 4 contacts. When I try it, my modem/router won't connect to the Internet.
Nvm, found a replacement fan on eBay.
So my ThinkPad hard drive started to die and I ended up getting a replacement in the mail with no instructions as to what to do. Does anyone have an idea as to how I'm supported to setup Windows 10 on it? I copied all my important files on a USB drive, but the annoying thing is a lot of my art programs were for 1 PC only. Is there any way to transfer then to the new hard drive without having to buy a second copy?
I literally have no idea what I'm doing since I've never upgraded a hard drive or anything.
I literally have no idea what I'm doing since I've never upgraded a hard drive or anything.
So I just installed my shiny new modular PSU. Plugged in the CPU, GPU, mobo, SSDs and HDDs. Turn it on, see the POST screen, and I'm jonesing to go...
... until I see the message, "Error loading operating system".
Checked the BIOS and the all drives are detected. The correct drive is assigned as my boot drive. The only thing that may have changed was that I switched the positions of the SATA plugs, so I tried mucking around with that. Tried every single position and nada.
Did my SSD decide to wipe itself, or something? All I did was unplug it to remove my old PSU and plug it back into the new one!
Help would be highly appreciated. I really want to try some games at max settings tonight.
... until I see the message, "Error loading operating system".
Checked the BIOS and the all drives are detected. The correct drive is assigned as my boot drive. The only thing that may have changed was that I switched the positions of the SATA plugs, so I tried mucking around with that. Tried every single position and nada.
Did my SSD decide to wipe itself, or something? All I did was unplug it to remove my old PSU and plug it back into the new one!
Help would be highly appreciated. I really want to try some games at max settings tonight.
Try going into your BIOS and checking to see if the boot order of the drives is correct?
If you have a storage device (like a USB stick) connected, remove it?
I had an external HD connected, but I've since disconnected it. I've tried disconnecting everything except the Windows drive, and now I get the error:
"Reboot and Select proper Boot device
Or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key"
Buddy suggested fixing my MBR partition. Gonna try that and hope for the best. No idea what could've happened, but I highly doubt the ssd crapped out or was damaged as all I did was disconnect the old cables and connect the new ones. Very perplexing.
Edit: Resolved. Created a bootable USB w/Win 10, went into Advanced options and selected something along the lines of "fix issues with startup". Worked like a charm. Between the new PSU and GPU, I have no idea what could've caused the problem, but I'm just happy to be runnin' games at 60 FPS.
Practically the same message as me, but the cause seems very different. The fact that it keeps popping up is a little concerning; wish I could help, but I'm not familiar with media servers. Godspeed, sir.
Edit: Actually, although this did nothing for me it might help in your case. Try out the steps in this article:
http://www.pcworld.com/article/3113...ster-boot-record-and-fix-your-bricked-pc.html
No harm to your data. It's just the boot record it fixes.
Zoidberg Jesus
Member
I'm having an issue with my custom built Windows 10 (upgraded from 8.1) desktop. I usually turn it off when I'm done using it for a while, but if I leave it idle for several hours (overnight, for example) It shows a black screen with the error "No boot device found. Insert a bootable drive and press any key." (paraphrasing a bit). Pressing a key brings up the message again. I'll press the power button and restart the computer, then it works fine.
My drive setup looks like this:
C: drive - 512GB SSD (Windows 10)
D: drive - 3TB HDD
E: drive - DVD RW
F: drive - 1TB HDD
This has happened a few times over the past several months. This usually isn't a problem, but sometimes I use my desktop as a media server, so it might cause issues then. Please advise. I'll provide more information if necessary.
Thanks for responding. I tried that, and get "The operation completed successfully" immediately, leading me to believe it didn't actually do anything. I also tried Startup Repair, but it said it couldn't find anything wrong.
Update: I checked the boot sequence in my BIOS, and the DVD RW drive was first, with the C: drive going last. I moved the C: drive to the front, left my computer idle on the desktop for a couple of hours, and when I came back I got the same "Reboot and select proper boot device" message. I went back into my BIOS and the DVD RW drive was first again. I fixed it again, then immediately went back to check if it stuck, and it did, but It looks like my BIOS settings aren't saving properly over time. Also, my computer is restarting on its own for some unknown reason. My Windows Update history shows the last update as yesterday, and all I can find in Event Viewer are some critical errors saying the previous system shutdown was unexpected.
My drive setup looks like this:
C: drive - 512GB SSD (Windows 10)
D: drive - 3TB HDD
E: drive - DVD RW
F: drive - 1TB HDD
This has happened a few times over the past several months. This usually isn't a problem, but sometimes I use my desktop as a media server, so it might cause issues then. Please advise. I'll provide more information if necessary.
Thanks for responding. I tried that, and get "The operation completed successfully" immediately, leading me to believe it didn't actually do anything. I also tried Startup Repair, but it said it couldn't find anything wrong.
Update: I checked the boot sequence in my BIOS, and the DVD RW drive was first, with the C: drive going last. I moved the C: drive to the front, left my computer idle on the desktop for a couple of hours, and when I came back I got the same "Reboot and select proper boot device" message. I went back into my BIOS and the DVD RW drive was first again. I fixed it again, then immediately went back to check if it stuck, and it did, but It looks like my BIOS settings aren't saving properly over time. Also, my computer is restarting on its own for some unknown reason. My Windows Update history shows the last update as yesterday, and all I can find in Event Viewer are some critical errors saying the previous system shutdown was unexpected.
I'm having some trouble getting on the internet with my PC. It started a few days ago. It would take forever to connect, but after resetting my router a couple times, I could finally get online. Today, it wouldn't. I finally chose the diagnose option on the network adapter and got this error:
Ethernet Doesnt Have A Valid IP Configuration
I thought at first it was my router going bad, but that can't be it. Everything that's wireless can connect to the internet. I downloaded the latest drivers on my tablet, copied it over, and installed them and it still didn't work.
I finally found a guide for entering a manual IP address and entered that in my network settings instead of it getting a dynamic IP address every time. Right now, with the manual IP address, it's working. I can get online. Does anyone know what I can do to fix it or should I just stick to the manual IP address for this computer?
Ethernet Doesnt Have A Valid IP Configuration
I thought at first it was my router going bad, but that can't be it. Everything that's wireless can connect to the internet. I downloaded the latest drivers on my tablet, copied it over, and installed them and it still didn't work.
I finally found a guide for entering a manual IP address and entered that in my network settings instead of it getting a dynamic IP address every time. Right now, with the manual IP address, it's working. I can get online. Does anyone know what I can do to fix it or should I just stick to the manual IP address for this computer?
platypotamus
Member
Tred to use my PC this morning and when I moved the mouse to wake it up, the monitor was on for a second, then went dark. Unplugging/replugging the monitor and rebooting have had no effect. My PC detects the monitor, because I heard windows make its device detected sound when connecting it again. I guess I gotta see if I can get an older monitor plugged in to see if I can get signal?
Edit: Interesting. On returning to my PC, the blue light on the bottom of my monitor (Samsung) was blinking.I don't think it usually does. Upon moving the mouse, it went back solid, but no display. Pressing menu button on monitor gives me nothing either. It's dead jim?
Edit: confirmed. old monitor works fine
Edit: Interesting. On returning to my PC, the blue light on the bottom of my monitor (Samsung) was blinking.I don't think it usually does. Upon moving the mouse, it went back solid, but no display. Pressing menu button on monitor gives me nothing either. It's dead jim?
Edit: confirmed.
old monitor works fine