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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Hey Guys,
Two solid white dots have appeared on the top left of my kids iPad screen. They move when the screen rotates but they're always top left - anyone got any ideas what they are and how to remove them?
You can see what i mean here: https://imgur.com/gallery/77zPO
Two solid white dots have appeared on the top left of my kids iPad screen. They move when the screen rotates but they're always top left - anyone got any ideas what they are and how to remove them?
You can see what i mean here: https://imgur.com/gallery/77zPO
Zepp Twofist
Member
Looks like either the display or the cable running from your motherboard to the internal laptop display.
Been stuck sharing an office with one of our biggest techdumb perpetrators in the building. I've given my notice and start a new job in 3 weeks and my patience for PEBCAK errors is growing thin.
I swear to christ if I hear her BANG BANG BANG her mouse on the desk one more time and sigh because "it's not running right" when she's sent 15 different documents to the spooler despite telling her for over 3 years not to send more than one or two at a time, I'm going to get her a trackball and duct tape the fucking thing to the desk.
SMACKING YOUR MOUSE ON THE DESK IS NOT GOING TO JAR LOOSE A FUCKING GEAR MAKING YOUR COMPUTER RUN SLOWER.
Alright. I'm done. Thanks for listening.
I swear to christ if I hear her BANG BANG BANG her mouse on the desk one more time and sigh because "it's not running right" when she's sent 15 different documents to the spooler despite telling her for over 3 years not to send more than one or two at a time, I'm going to get her a trackball and duct tape the fucking thing to the desk.
SMACKING YOUR MOUSE ON THE DESK IS NOT GOING TO JAR LOOSE A FUCKING GEAR MAKING YOUR COMPUTER RUN SLOWER.
Alright. I'm done. Thanks for listening.
Conkersbadfurday
Member
I'm getting some kind of Storahci 129 error reading, "reset to device device raidport0 was issued"
What happens is I hear a crackle from my speakers for some reason, and then the computer sort of freezes for like thirty seconds. Disk usage jumps to 100%. After about thirty seconds, sometimes a bit longer, it goes back to fine.
Happens when I sit down sometimes? Wondering if there's something loose in the PC that's causing this. The error started about two days ago after some Windows 10 updates.
Specs are as follows:
Windows 10
Intel Core i5-4430 CPU 3.00GHz processor (those are numbers and letters!)
Z97 PC Mate (MS-7850) MSI motherboard
12 Gigs of RAM
Card is an NVidia Geforce GTX 970
I don't know my hard drive make. I have CPU-Z but it doesn't seem to list the hard drive anywhere, or I'm not looking hard enough.
I've updated the drivers on the graphics card and motherboard though it hasn't curbed the issue it seems. My power settings are set to high performance, which was a trick Google told me to try.
What happens is I hear a crackle from my speakers for some reason, and then the computer sort of freezes for like thirty seconds. Disk usage jumps to 100%. After about thirty seconds, sometimes a bit longer, it goes back to fine.
Happens when I sit down sometimes? Wondering if there's something loose in the PC that's causing this. The error started about two days ago after some Windows 10 updates.
Specs are as follows:
Windows 10
Intel Core i5-4430 CPU 3.00GHz processor (those are numbers and letters!)
Z97 PC Mate (MS-7850) MSI motherboard
12 Gigs of RAM
Card is an NVidia Geforce GTX 970
I don't know my hard drive make. I have CPU-Z but it doesn't seem to list the hard drive anywhere, or I'm not looking hard enough.
I've updated the drivers on the graphics card and motherboard though it hasn't curbed the issue it seems. My power settings are set to high performance, which was a trick Google told me to try.
Jezbollah
Member
My laptop started displaying weird.
Replaced my motherboard last month. The HDMI output works fine. Does this seem like the motherboard or the display?
Try connecting an external monitor and see what happens?
Google Remote Desktop is pretty good.
Having some issues with my Corsair AX850 modular PSU, I think:
Yesterday, I pressed the power button on my PC and it did absolutely nothing. I opened it up, cleaned, reseat, and replugged everything back in. It started working again. The only error I got was "Windows may need to be repaired", which I assumed is because the very last thing I did on it was run a windows update and thought maybe something happened to cause it to lose power mid update.
I powered down and back on several times just to make sure that it was fine. The issue seemed to be gone.
Several hours later, my pc tells me that there's another Windows update ready to be installed so I figured that I'd go ahead with it. Windows prepares the update, and the pc turns off, and that was that. It hasn't turned back on since.
When the psu is plugged into my mobo, the on board mobo power button lights up green but pressing it does nothing. The paperclip test fails. I also have a cheap psu tester that doesn't even turn on when plugged into the psu.
Am I correct in assuming that this psu is just dead and the earlier successful attempt to get it working was just a fluke?
This sounds silly but Windows updates can't flat out stop my pc from turning on, can they? The fact that both failures came during updates has me curious.
Why would the mobo still light up if it isn't receiving power?
Anyone have experience with Corsair RMA? Thoughts/opinions on them?
I already filed an RMA request with corsair but figured I'd do more troubleshooting today and wanted some extra input.
Thanks.
Yesterday, I pressed the power button on my PC and it did absolutely nothing. I opened it up, cleaned, reseat, and replugged everything back in. It started working again. The only error I got was "Windows may need to be repaired", which I assumed is because the very last thing I did on it was run a windows update and thought maybe something happened to cause it to lose power mid update.
I powered down and back on several times just to make sure that it was fine. The issue seemed to be gone.
Several hours later, my pc tells me that there's another Windows update ready to be installed so I figured that I'd go ahead with it. Windows prepares the update, and the pc turns off, and that was that. It hasn't turned back on since.
When the psu is plugged into my mobo, the on board mobo power button lights up green but pressing it does nothing. The paperclip test fails. I also have a cheap psu tester that doesn't even turn on when plugged into the psu.
Am I correct in assuming that this psu is just dead and the earlier successful attempt to get it working was just a fluke?
This sounds silly but Windows updates can't flat out stop my pc from turning on, can they? The fact that both failures came during updates has me curious.
Why would the mobo still light up if it isn't receiving power?
Anyone have experience with Corsair RMA? Thoughts/opinions on them?
I already filed an RMA request with corsair but figured I'd do more troubleshooting today and wanted some extra input.
Thanks.
I am in dire need of help.
After three years my laptop is on its last legs; parts of it are literally held together with duct tape. Since a few months ago I've been having an issue where I'd press the power button and nothing would seem to come on; the power light is on, but the screen is blank and I think the fan and HDD don't initialise either (though I'm not certain of that.)
It used to just be an occasional issue, but as time's progressed it's taken more and more reboots before finally coming to life. Now it pretty much doesn't turn on at all. Yesterday I took a screwdriver to it and had a poke around the insides, cleaned out dust, tried disconnecting the HDD, the battery, the fan. Tried purging the power by holding the button down with the power removed. At one point last night it did turn on, randomly, but I don't know if that was due to anything I'd done or mere coincidence.
It's the Christmas holidays, my University library is shut so I can't access their computers, and I have a dissertation to be working on and exam revision to do, which is pretty much impossible without a laptop. I can't afford to replace this laptop until January 9th and in the time between now and then I really can't be without a computer, it's fucking my productivity up completely.
Does anyone have any suggestions for what I can do? I don't care what black voodoo magic I need to get this laptop to linger on for the next three weeks, I'll try anything at this point.
After three years my laptop is on its last legs; parts of it are literally held together with duct tape. Since a few months ago I've been having an issue where I'd press the power button and nothing would seem to come on; the power light is on, but the screen is blank and I think the fan and HDD don't initialise either (though I'm not certain of that.)
It used to just be an occasional issue, but as time's progressed it's taken more and more reboots before finally coming to life. Now it pretty much doesn't turn on at all. Yesterday I took a screwdriver to it and had a poke around the insides, cleaned out dust, tried disconnecting the HDD, the battery, the fan. Tried purging the power by holding the button down with the power removed. At one point last night it did turn on, randomly, but I don't know if that was due to anything I'd done or mere coincidence.
It's the Christmas holidays, my University library is shut so I can't access their computers, and I have a dissertation to be working on and exam revision to do, which is pretty much impossible without a laptop. I can't afford to replace this laptop until January 9th and in the time between now and then I really can't be without a computer, it's fucking my productivity up completely.
Does anyone have any suggestions for what I can do? I don't care what black voodoo magic I need to get this laptop to linger on for the next three weeks, I'll try anything at this point.
Cool, thanks! I'll give it a whirl.
So I have a MacBook pro from 2007/08. I was told at the time that the motherboard was fried so basically garbage. I kept it until now and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of what I could use the parts for now/how do I test which parts would still be ok? And is it possible to even turn it into a raspberry pi 3 classic emulator using the screen/ other possible working parts? Really want to save thus from the garbage pile. Thanks in advance.
Lord British
Member
Lately I am unable to stay signed into Youtube for longer than a few minutes without it kicking me out. I have tried clearing all cookies and cache and signing back in, and the problem has persisted. I do not know what has changed that has caused this problem.
I'm using Firefox.
I really hope someone will be able to help.
I'm using Firefox.
I really hope someone will be able to help.
Hello I thought it would be best to post this question here.
Last year I built a pc with the following specs:
CPU: I5 4440
GPU: R9 Nano (Upgraded from an R9 380)
RAM: 8GB 1600 MHZ
SSHD: 1TB
Now my current problem here is that I got BF1 and am currently experiencing a CPU bottleneck on this system with frame rates between 40 - 60 and what may also be bad frame pacing. My question is if this is normal (I've tried as many fixes as I could find) and if my only option is to now upgrade CPU?
In summary does anyone have a system similar to mine and have better performance?
Last year I built a pc with the following specs:
CPU: I5 4440
GPU: R9 Nano (Upgraded from an R9 380)
RAM: 8GB 1600 MHZ
SSHD: 1TB
Now my current problem here is that I got BF1 and am currently experiencing a CPU bottleneck on this system with frame rates between 40 - 60 and what may also be bad frame pacing. My question is if this is normal (I've tried as many fixes as I could find) and if my only option is to now upgrade CPU?
In summary does anyone have a system similar to mine and have better performance?
This issue I'm guessing is related to verticle sync, screen-tearing, etcetera. It's peculiar and I I'm fairly certain it isn't normal. It looks like dropped framerate. In fullscreen with vsync it isn't an issue so far as I've observed, outside of that I get a lot of screen tearing (it's completely horrendous in TF2 and oblivion). Framerate locking fixes nothing and may even make it worse.
It is observable in pretty much everything I've tried so far, but I'll list them off.
SOMA - Very noticeable. It's triggered quite frequently and vsync doesn't seem to work at all in windowed mode unfortunately.
Insurgency - Noticeable. Some maps seem to make it more apparent than others, it is an issue regardles of being in windowed mode or not I think. Vsync fixes it somewhat, though it makes my mouse movement seem jittery I think. For some reason nvidia enabled vsync doesn't actually work for this game even in fullscreen. Only the game's own vsync works at all. Dunno if that's normal.
Alien Isolation - Somewhat noticeable. It had a few problem areas when I tested but they were not super huge unless you're watching for them. Might be worse with more testing. Vysnc fixes it in or out of windowed mode.
Dark Souls III - Works fine, anything I could do to disable vsync would probably get me banned anyway. However the screen flashes a lot when starting it up and I don't remember if that's normal or not but it seemed a little excessive.
Skyrim/Fallout 4 - Observable if I do unlock the framerate. Nothing seems to fix it when I try this. Unfortunate, given that doing this and locking the framerate manually is supposed to improve things, so I gather.
TF2 - Insane screen tearing. Heavy frame drops if windowed but screen tearing stops. Borderless windowed mode is a common method for improving performance and convenient for when the game is loading and it borks the overlay. Shame.
Oblivion - Ultimate screen tearing. Without vsync this is unplayable, windowed or not. Definitely exibits the problem as well.
Eldrich - Idunno about the issues I've been going after specifically here but I'm getting stuttering, which IS registering in the OSD. I'm pretty sure that shouldn't be happening.
Witcher - Issue appears to be present and is lessened by vsync, whether it's windowed or full screen. Game stutters a lot no matter what.
Witcher 2 - Issue is present unless vsync is active. Mouse movement seems jittery but using a controller makes movement fairly smooth.
Another issue I cannot figure out is that using afterburner's own recorder causes the GPU power usage to fluctuate and the framerate to go all over the place, regardless of settings. It also never actually recorded anything.
Steps I've taken:
1. Removing Afterburner/Rivatuner
2. Reinstalling drivers
3. Reinstalling drivers after using Device Driver Uninstaller to remove them
4. Reinstalling Windows and doing the above
5. Updating GPU BIOS
6. Simply watching the heat and controlling the fans with afterburner. It has always maintained under 50 degrees.
7. I tried clean boot and underclocking with afterburner. It felt like it worked at first but I think it just made the issue manifest in different areas and different times.
8. I tried swapping slots on the motherboard. Problem still persists.
9. Disabled that xbox dvr thing in regedit
My full specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Primary Drive: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Secondary Drive: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+
OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full 64-bit
I've passed this information onto support but I figured I'd post here anyway. I just really want to rule out other factors before I try to RMA the card.
It is observable in pretty much everything I've tried so far, but I'll list them off.
SOMA - Very noticeable. It's triggered quite frequently and vsync doesn't seem to work at all in windowed mode unfortunately.
Insurgency - Noticeable. Some maps seem to make it more apparent than others, it is an issue regardles of being in windowed mode or not I think. Vsync fixes it somewhat, though it makes my mouse movement seem jittery I think. For some reason nvidia enabled vsync doesn't actually work for this game even in fullscreen. Only the game's own vsync works at all. Dunno if that's normal.
Alien Isolation - Somewhat noticeable. It had a few problem areas when I tested but they were not super huge unless you're watching for them. Might be worse with more testing. Vysnc fixes it in or out of windowed mode.
Dark Souls III - Works fine, anything I could do to disable vsync would probably get me banned anyway. However the screen flashes a lot when starting it up and I don't remember if that's normal or not but it seemed a little excessive.
Skyrim/Fallout 4 - Observable if I do unlock the framerate. Nothing seems to fix it when I try this. Unfortunate, given that doing this and locking the framerate manually is supposed to improve things, so I gather.
TF2 - Insane screen tearing. Heavy frame drops if windowed but screen tearing stops. Borderless windowed mode is a common method for improving performance and convenient for when the game is loading and it borks the overlay. Shame.
Oblivion - Ultimate screen tearing. Without vsync this is unplayable, windowed or not. Definitely exibits the problem as well.
Eldrich - Idunno about the issues I've been going after specifically here but I'm getting stuttering, which IS registering in the OSD. I'm pretty sure that shouldn't be happening.
Witcher - Issue appears to be present and is lessened by vsync, whether it's windowed or full screen. Game stutters a lot no matter what.
Witcher 2 - Issue is present unless vsync is active. Mouse movement seems jittery but using a controller makes movement fairly smooth.
Another issue I cannot figure out is that using afterburner's own recorder causes the GPU power usage to fluctuate and the framerate to go all over the place, regardless of settings. It also never actually recorded anything.
Steps I've taken:
1. Removing Afterburner/Rivatuner
2. Reinstalling drivers
3. Reinstalling drivers after using Device Driver Uninstaller to remove them
4. Reinstalling Windows and doing the above
5. Updating GPU BIOS
6. Simply watching the heat and controlling the fans with afterburner. It has always maintained under 50 degrees.
7. I tried clean boot and underclocking with afterburner. It felt like it worked at first but I think it just made the issue manifest in different areas and different times.
8. I tried swapping slots on the motherboard. Problem still persists.
9. Disabled that xbox dvr thing in regedit
My full specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Primary Drive: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Secondary Drive: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+
OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full 64-bit
I've passed this information onto support but I figured I'd post here anyway. I just really want to rule out other factors before I try to RMA the card.
Alright I am in need of some assistance here. My system crashes sort of frequently and after a bit of digging this is what came up, and I have no idea where to start. Mostly because I have no idea how to read the minidump files that are being created. But my crash code is always IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL
Just about everything you've written sounds normal. If you don't want to be using vsync, you'll need a freesync or gsync monitor. Without vsync you'll practically always experience some form of stutter, inconsistent frame times, or tearing because certain areas of the screen are being rendered faster than others. Vsync not necessary when you're playing (borderless) windowed as your game won't render higher than your screen's native refresh rate and the image is synchronized top to bottom as vsync does in dedicated fullscreen. Also Nvidia's vsync isn't always as reliable as in-game vsync from my experience, so ymmv. Locking your frame rate but not using vsync in fullscreen will also not give you the results you want. Are you experiencing tearing when in a windowed mode? I'm not sure that's possible. Choppiness at low frames, yes, but not tearing.
From what I know, you have three options:
1. If you are adamant about not using vsync (which you shouldn't be):
Play in (borderless) windowed mode.
2. Middle ground option:
Set the frame rate limit to 60 in Rivatuner*
Enable fastsync in Nvidia CP (under vsync)
This gives less input lag and, from what I understand, makes vsync kick in when your frame rate goes above your refresh rate.
* Assuming your monitor's refresh rate is 60. Re: application detection level, no fucking clue what the difference is but I keep it at medium. If you don't want to do this manually for each game, set your preferences in the global profile. Some games will pull weird shit and feel smoother at a limit of 61.
3. However, I'd personally still recommend the following:
Set the frame rate limit to 60 in Rivatuner
Enable regular-ass vsync either in-game or Nvidia CP
Play in dedicated fullscreen mode.
Enable triple buffering, if necessary in the Nvidia CP (which does introduce more input lag but unless you're a competitive CS:GO player or whatever, I doubt you will notice or care)
Barring poor game optimization, this last option will give you the smoothest possible image if your PC is up to snuff, which it looks like it should be provided you're not playing at crazy resolutions and/or using excessively high MSAA/SSAA.
Hello TechSupportGAF I need help.
I finally decided to build my own PC (yess!) the problem now is...kind of weird to explain.
The HDMI is not displaying text "correctly" it looks odd like the font is not centered enough along with some really dark colors or "washed up" kind of look.
I downloaded the drivers for the AMD card that I got (Radeon HD 7900) and while I moved some of the options, it still looks odd.
So far I changed the resolution, activaded several options on the driver.
Uninstalled all drivers and installed them again with no avail....
The only thing I couldn't test is using a VGA monitor since I don't have one, I only the TV I mostly used with no problems with my old laptop (with and HDMI cable)
Did someone else had something similar? I have google'd the issue but most of the answers don't seem to help me so far...
Thanks!
I finally decided to build my own PC (yess!) the problem now is...kind of weird to explain.
The HDMI is not displaying text "correctly" it looks odd like the font is not centered enough along with some really dark colors or "washed up" kind of look.
I downloaded the drivers for the AMD card that I got (Radeon HD 7900) and while I moved some of the options, it still looks odd.
So far I changed the resolution, activaded several options on the driver.
Uninstalled all drivers and installed them again with no avail....
The only thing I couldn't test is using a VGA monitor since I don't have one, I only the TV I mostly used with no problems with my old laptop (with and HDMI cable)
Did someone else had something similar? I have google'd the issue but most of the answers don't seem to help me so far...
Thanks!
Hi, hopefully I've posted this in the right thread.
Is there a resource somewhere that gives some sort of indication which graphical options to prioritise switching off when trying to get your FPS/visual quality right?
i.e. which settings aren't worth the FPS hit relative to their contribution to the visual appeal and which ones are.
I simply don't understand terms like "ambient occlusion" etc so looking for something that can help me when tweaking games rather than spending hours trying every possible permutation.
I'll post my specs just in case it helps with my query.
Thanks guys.
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-6100 CPU @ 3.70GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.7GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM DDR4 3200
Card name: AMD Radeon (TM) R9 380 Series
Display Memory: 12239 MB
Is there a resource somewhere that gives some sort of indication which graphical options to prioritise switching off when trying to get your FPS/visual quality right?
i.e. which settings aren't worth the FPS hit relative to their contribution to the visual appeal and which ones are.
I simply don't understand terms like "ambient occlusion" etc so looking for something that can help me when tweaking games rather than spending hours trying every possible permutation.
I'll post my specs just in case it helps with my query.
Thanks guys.
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-6100 CPU @ 3.70GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.7GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM DDR4 3200
Card name: AMD Radeon (TM) R9 380 Series
Display Memory: 12239 MB
Garou
Member
The performance-hit for such options depends on the engine and the implementation in the game and your card, so there's no general rule across everything.
To know what visual impact the options have, look at guides like the NVIDIA game guides, for example: http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/guides/watch-dogs-2-graphics-and-performance-guide
Cross-post from the Surface Book thread:
I got a Surface Book at work today to replace a Surface Pro 3. I have been looking forward to using this as my main development device and deprecating my MacBook Pro. Unfortunately, it looks like I got a bad unit. It kept doing this within a few minutes of booting:
It becomes unresponsive when this happens and I have to do a hard reset. I managed to avoid this behavior (by not hooking it up to the dock and external monitors) long enough to download all system updates, but it didn't help the problem. I decided to try a factory reset and got most of the way through that, but it threw up an error message toward the end about an unexpected problem preventing Windows from installing and to please restart the machine. If I do that, it just repeats the behavior, so the device is effectively bricked at the moment. If I hold power + vol. up for a few seconds on boot I can get to a screen called Surface UEFI. Does anyone know of a way to do a restore on the system at this point? I have a support ticket in with Microsoft, but I'm eager to get this fixed ASAP.
I got a Surface Book at work today to replace a Surface Pro 3. I have been looking forward to using this as my main development device and deprecating my MacBook Pro. Unfortunately, it looks like I got a bad unit. It kept doing this within a few minutes of booting:
It becomes unresponsive when this happens and I have to do a hard reset. I managed to avoid this behavior (by not hooking it up to the dock and external monitors) long enough to download all system updates, but it didn't help the problem. I decided to try a factory reset and got most of the way through that, but it threw up an error message toward the end about an unexpected problem preventing Windows from installing and to please restart the machine. If I do that, it just repeats the behavior, so the device is effectively bricked at the moment. If I hold power + vol. up for a few seconds on boot I can get to a screen called Surface UEFI. Does anyone know of a way to do a restore on the system at this point? I have a support ticket in with Microsoft, but I'm eager to get this fixed ASAP.
So I don't know jack about anything so I'm just gonna describe the situation and then maybe someone can tell me if there's actually a problem or if I'm just crazy.
A week or so ago my case fan started dying and just being really freakin noisy, so I unplugged the fan..... I know it's not the best idea but I was planning on buying a new one and I figured it wouldn't cause too much of a problem in the meantime.
Last night while playing a game I play all the time, my antivirus decided to update in the back ground, my game crashed (game turned all white and got the typical program not responding error message. But then I got a physical memory error message.... I can't remember if it said physical memory reached, or exceeded, or not enough physical memory.... something like that.
Anyway, I went through with the antivirus software update, rebooted the game.... which now ran at like 1 fps in the menu and then crashed again with a white screen and program not responding message when I tried to load a level.
So I updated my graphics card drivers, ran a scan for performance issues with my antivirus software (didn't find anything), and restarted the computer. After the restart, the game I was playing ran fine again, but when I tried to play a different game I got a white screen and program not responding message again. So I turned off the pc and went to bed, and now we're here.
I think that my ram is fucked, but I don't know. And I hope it's not because I disconnected that case fan, but thats probably why I guess... anyone have any ideas?
A week or so ago my case fan started dying and just being really freakin noisy, so I unplugged the fan..... I know it's not the best idea but I was planning on buying a new one and I figured it wouldn't cause too much of a problem in the meantime.
Last night while playing a game I play all the time, my antivirus decided to update in the back ground, my game crashed (game turned all white and got the typical program not responding error message. But then I got a physical memory error message.... I can't remember if it said physical memory reached, or exceeded, or not enough physical memory.... something like that.
Anyway, I went through with the antivirus software update, rebooted the game.... which now ran at like 1 fps in the menu and then crashed again with a white screen and program not responding message when I tried to load a level.
So I updated my graphics card drivers, ran a scan for performance issues with my antivirus software (didn't find anything), and restarted the computer. After the restart, the game I was playing ran fine again, but when I tried to play a different game I got a white screen and program not responding message again. So I turned off the pc and went to bed, and now we're here.
I think that my ram is fucked, but I don't know. And I hope it's not because I disconnected that case fan, but thats probably why I guess... anyone have any ideas?
Visualante2
Member
Windows 10 x64 crashed when browsing, no big deal. But when I restart I get a black screen. I panic and try to fix it, the first error I come across is Video TDR failure, then listing something to do with ATI or AMD. So I uninstall the drivers in safe mode, progress. I'm back into Windows with the basic Windows display driver.
I try to install the latest clean driver, and when I do I get the exact same black screen behaviour. Any ideas?
i7 4790k
AMD HD 7870
z97 mother board
SSD
edit. Starting to believe it's related to Windows 10 update. There are big driver and Windows updates going out over the last 24 hours and it has somehow fucked my machine. I clean the driver, 5 minutes after booting up it tries to reinstall the shitty files and black screen.
edit 2. So definitely Windows update related. I disabled the driver update in Windows 10 using this tool. But when I go to install any old, previously working driver it black screens again. I've been reading that it could either be a hardware fault (I'm unable to test in another machine) or Windows update broke something. Going to look into rolling back the latest cumulative update I guess.
edit 3. Reinstalled Windows, still doing it. What a drag.
edit 4.Starting to feel like this is a hardware issue and I wasted my time reinstalling Windows.
I try to install the latest clean driver, and when I do I get the exact same black screen behaviour. Any ideas?
i7 4790k
AMD HD 7870
z97 mother board
SSD
edit. Starting to believe it's related to Windows 10 update. There are big driver and Windows updates going out over the last 24 hours and it has somehow fucked my machine. I clean the driver, 5 minutes after booting up it tries to reinstall the shitty files and black screen.
edit 2. So definitely Windows update related. I disabled the driver update in Windows 10 using this tool. But when I go to install any old, previously working driver it black screens again. I've been reading that it could either be a hardware fault (I'm unable to test in another machine) or Windows update broke something. Going to look into rolling back the latest cumulative update I guess.
edit 3. Reinstalled Windows, still doing it. What a drag.
edit 4.
ifixit said:
So I've noticed recently that when I sit in front of my computer I'll often hear the noise that Windows make when you unplug/plug a USB Device.
My guess is that I have something loose somewhere but I don't know what. Is there any ways to track what is installed/uninstalled in Windows? Some kind of log somewhere?
My guess is that I have something loose somewhere but I don't know what. Is there any ways to track what is installed/uninstalled in Windows? Some kind of log somewhere?
Visualante2
Member
The way I'd do it is open up device manager, expand everything. Might give you an idea of what is happening visually.
Zoe
Member
I have a first generation Surface Pro running on up-to-date Windows 10.
For some reason, every time it goes to sleep/hibernate/power off, it can't reconnect to my home wi-fi. It's not that it forgets the network settings each time, it just can't find it. I have to go in and re-add it as a Hidden Network every time, so I end up with multiple copies of the same saved network.
I'm not going to turn on SSID broadcasting for the network. I've tried registry edits, changing the power settings, double-checking the network properties, updating drivers... nothing seems to work. I've tried googling this, but I'm either not searching the right thing or it's not a known issue for Surfaces.
Anybody ever run into this and have been able to fix it?
For some reason, every time it goes to sleep/hibernate/power off, it can't reconnect to my home wi-fi. It's not that it forgets the network settings each time, it just can't find it. I have to go in and re-add it as a Hidden Network every time, so I end up with multiple copies of the same saved network.
I'm not going to turn on SSID broadcasting for the network. I've tried registry edits, changing the power settings, double-checking the network properties, updating drivers... nothing seems to work. I've tried googling this, but I'm either not searching the right thing or it's not a known issue for Surfaces.
Anybody ever run into this and have been able to fix it?
clay_ghost
Member
Need Gaf support help again.
I have a windows 7 Dell laptop that just went though Dell recovery to reset to its default image but is unable to boot normally to continue its installation. Safe mode can't install Windows 7 so I am stuck with a chicken and egg problem. Anyone can help me?
Edit
I am unable to boot due to BSOD error 0x00000116, which I suspect it's a windows driver issues. However I can't get into windows!
I have a windows 7 Dell laptop that just went though Dell recovery to reset to its default image but is unable to boot normally to continue its installation. Safe mode can't install Windows 7 so I am stuck with a chicken and egg problem. Anyone can help me?
Edit
I am unable to boot due to BSOD error 0x00000116, which I suspect it's a windows driver issues. However I can't get into windows!
Do you have a copy of Windows on DVD or USB? You should be able to boot off that (go into your BIOS and set the highest boot priority to the DVD drive or USB) and do a fresh Windows install without any need to boot into Windows first.
clay_ghost
Member
Tried that but unable boot into them, will default to normal windows loading and then BSOD.
Edit.
Hmm tried another 8.1 disk and it's just boot into a black screen..
OH!
Forget to thank you haha. Thanks.
I just switched to Cox internet from DishNet. My plan is 150Mbps. When connected directly to the modem I get those speeds, when I go through my Archer C7 my wired and wireless speeds are between 20-40Mbps. I've upgraded the router's firmware and reset it to factory defaults, but my speeds are still slow. This router was getting the full speed of my old provider (7Mbps). Any suggestions?
All NFC does in Bluetooth audio is tell your phone/device to pair with your earbuds with Bluetooth. I'm not entirely sure what you're asking, but you seem to have misunderstood what it does.
Hey GAF, I have a problem with my static shock on my laptop.
Whenever I carry it around in my backpack to school and pull it out, it shocks me. Like, really bad static shock. My hard drive died in 6 months, and I'm worried it's related. I try to touch metal before I touch my laptop, but it constantly shocks me despite my efforts. None of my previous laptops have had this problem. I tend to leave it on sleep mode, if that might be related.
Is there anything I can do beyond buying a new laptop?
Whenever I carry it around in my backpack to school and pull it out, it shocks me. Like, really bad static shock. My hard drive died in 6 months, and I'm worried it's related. I try to touch metal before I touch my laptop, but it constantly shocks me despite my efforts. None of my previous laptops have had this problem. I tend to leave it on sleep mode, if that might be related.
Is there anything I can do beyond buying a new laptop?
BolognaOni
Member
That's a weird one... It sounds like the charge is building up on the laptop itself (as opposed to it being on you, so grounding yourself on something metal itsn't working). Does this only happen in your backpack? If so, I'd try another backpack first. If it happens other places there must be some weird internal charge build up going on to the laptop case, and I'd try contacting the manufacturer.
Stuff like laptops should be robust against static, but repeated big shocks definitely can cause failures.
I only have one backpack to carry around, but I've tried putting it in a sleeve case which made it worse honestly.
I guess i'll have to email Lenovo support.
Here's a question-
This has been happening on my home pc for a few months now. When I turn it on, nothing happens. SOmetimes, it will have that loading up spiral for a while and then that spiral disappears and then nothing happens. Sometimes, I get no loading up spiral. Eventually (about five to ten minutes later), I get the windows 10
sad face emoticon that says something went wrong. It will then count up to 100% and then restart. It works fine after that.
Also, the computer refuses to restart from sleep also. It turns on and goes to my log in screen but won't let me type. It then evenutally goes the sad emoticon windows screen again.
Any guesses as to the cause?
This has been happening on my home pc for a few months now. When I turn it on, nothing happens. SOmetimes, it will have that loading up spiral for a while and then that spiral disappears and then nothing happens. Sometimes, I get no loading up spiral. Eventually (about five to ten minutes later), I get the windows 10
sad face emoticon that says something went wrong. It will then count up to 100% and then restart. It works fine after that.Also, the computer refuses to restart from sleep also. It turns on and goes to my log in screen but won't let me type. It then evenutally goes the sad emoticon windows screen again.
Any guesses as to the cause?
Rhomega Beta
Member
Not sure if this belongs here, as this is browser related. I'm using Chrome, and if I click a link here on NeoGAF that goes to another site like Twitter or YouTube, it goes to an about:blank page. If I right-click and select "Open in New Tab", the URL is "redirect.viglink.com" plus a bunch of other stuff, and then the tab opens to the thread I opened it from. I can still go to other threads and sections of NeoGAF. This is also a problem on Rangerboard, another message board that uses vBulletin.
I've tried clearing browser data, disconnecting and reconnecting Google accounts, uninstalling and reinstalling, and it still has the same problem. I then tried it out with Firefox, and it has the same problem.
EDIT: And now the problem has gone away. I don't know what gives.
I've tried clearing browser data, disconnecting and reconnecting Google accounts, uninstalling and reinstalling, and it still has the same problem. I then tried it out with Firefox, and it has the same problem.
EDIT: And now the problem has gone away. I don't know what gives.
boybrushdRED
Member
My PC won't boot. Not even load the BIOS. Just black screen, but the case fans and cpu cooler fans are spinning. Also don't have a spare power supply to test. Already tried removing 1 ram stick, unplugged the SSD. Removed then put back the motherboard's battery. Is my motherboard dead?
Zepp Twofist
Member
Is this a new PC that you have built, or did it suddenly start to behave like this?
boybrushdRED
Member
Its an old PC, 1st gen i7 860.
Zepp Twofist
Member
Hard to tell if it is the PSU or motherboard. Could even be the GPU. Unless you have spare parts to test with, I'm not sure there is a way to tell which component is broken.
What can be causing a new Windows 10 computer to randomly lag?
Mouse movement and overall performance will stutter/lag for a 1-2 seconds at a time on a constant basis. It is a subtle dip in performance but it's noticeable and happens frequently. It also happens after reboots and even continued happening after a clean Win10 re-install.
I think I noticed the performance issues after making the HDD a secondary drive and installing a new SSD as the main drive but I'm not completely certain.
-Windows 10 Home
-Intel i5-6400
-12GB RAM
-120GB SSD (main drive)
-1TB HDD (secondary drive)
OS, BIOS, and all drivers are up to date.
I graphed out 6 minutes of single-tab Chrome usage after a fresh reboot on Win10 Performance Monitor. I've never the monitor before so I'm not sure if I chose the correct variables to monitor but here is the graph:
I'm not sure if it matters but the HDD will go to sleep frequently because when I try to access files from it I will hear it start to spin again and it takes a few seconds to access the files.
Also it can take a relatively long time to shut down sometimes. It boots up really quickly but shutdown can be anywhere from 15 seconds to over 60 seconds.
Any ideas?
Mouse movement and overall performance will stutter/lag for a 1-2 seconds at a time on a constant basis. It is a subtle dip in performance but it's noticeable and happens frequently. It also happens after reboots and even continued happening after a clean Win10 re-install.
I think I noticed the performance issues after making the HDD a secondary drive and installing a new SSD as the main drive but I'm not completely certain.
-Windows 10 Home
-Intel i5-6400
-12GB RAM
-120GB SSD (main drive)
-1TB HDD (secondary drive)
OS, BIOS, and all drivers are up to date.
I graphed out 6 minutes of single-tab Chrome usage after a fresh reboot on Win10 Performance Monitor. I've never the monitor before so I'm not sure if I chose the correct variables to monitor but here is the graph:
I'm not sure if it matters but the HDD will go to sleep frequently because when I try to access files from it I will hear it start to spin again and it takes a few seconds to access the files.
Also it can take a relatively long time to shut down sometimes. It boots up really quickly but shutdown can be anywhere from 15 seconds to over 60 seconds.
Any ideas?
Would that cause the OS which is on another drive to hiccup though? I'm going to tinker with it just in case, thanks for the reply.
If you're trying to access a file on a turned-off HDD, yeah, sure. It does for me, anyway, hence why I think you're on the right track thinking it's your HDD spinning up that's causing it. Mine is set to turn off after 20 minutes (presumably the default for the balanced preset). Yours sounds more agressive.
If it's not that, I would monitor background processes next.
If it's not that, I would monitor background processes next.
Well it lags all the time even when I'm not trying to access the HDD. Lag when accessing the HDD was just another issue that I wasnt sure is related or not.
I've seen this with a third generation surface i've recently serviced.
The solution in my case was to go to device management -> network devices -> wireless controller, right click it and press uninstall -do not check the delete drivers box!!-, the device will be unmounted and remounted automatically. This will make the device forget all networks and reset the driver to factory settings.
This also fixed any issues i had for it, i think it's due to an updated driver ruining it's configuration during a migration.
clem84
Gold Member
Hey guys.
How do you save high quality instagram pictures?
Those of you who use the service will know that instagram doesn't let you do this, but there's obviously a way since I see people posting high quality instagram pics on their facebook. I googled but everything I found seemed to be overly complex and involved going through a lot of hoops. There has to be a simple way to do this.
Thanks in advance.
edit:
Thought I'd answer my own question. I found this app called 4k Stogram that can do just that. I'd still be curious to know if there are other ways that don't involve installing an app.
How do you save high quality instagram pictures?
Those of you who use the service will know that instagram doesn't let you do this, but there's obviously a way since I see people posting high quality instagram pics on their facebook. I googled but everything I found seemed to be overly complex and involved going through a lot of hoops. There has to be a simple way to do this.
Thanks in advance.
edit:
Thought I'd answer my own question. I found this app called 4k Stogram that can do just that. I'd still be curious to know if there are other ways that don't involve installing an app.
Hey guys. I have a Motorola NVG 510 for my Frontier DSL internet (a POS, im sure. but it's actually been pretty reliable) Every once in a while, i get a very specific type of network crash. My network fails on my Wifi devices one by one over the course of a couple minutes, eventually, even my wired devices fail. the wireless network never drops, just my internet access. sometimes, the wired devices internet access stays up the entire time. a reboot of the NGV510 fixes the problem every time.
this really only happens every couple of months, so it's not a big deal. i chalked it up to modems/routers needing reboots every once in a while.
however, i've noticed since i got my xbox one, if the xbox one is on and connected to the internet, the likelihood of this crash happening seems to increase (by a lot.) i would guess that if im using my xbox, its a 50% chance the crash will happen. considering with the xbox completely off, the crash hasnt happened in MONTHS, i'm almost certain the xbox one is causing it.
all my network settings on the xbox one are automatic. the xbox connection is wired (so when it crashes the network, it will stay connected to the internet way longer than most of my devices)
anybody have any ideas? i contacted frontier support and they told me to try wireless, but i'd rather keep it wired if possible
this really only happens every couple of months, so it's not a big deal. i chalked it up to modems/routers needing reboots every once in a while.
however, i've noticed since i got my xbox one, if the xbox one is on and connected to the internet, the likelihood of this crash happening seems to increase (by a lot.) i would guess that if im using my xbox, its a 50% chance the crash will happen. considering with the xbox completely off, the crash hasnt happened in MONTHS, i'm almost certain the xbox one is causing it.
all my network settings on the xbox one are automatic. the xbox connection is wired (so when it crashes the network, it will stay connected to the internet way longer than most of my devices)
anybody have any ideas? i contacted frontier support and they told me to try wireless, but i'd rather keep it wired if possible